/vr/ - Retro Games

[Anonymous No.8315908]

/CRT/ GENERAL: sunroom edition

Previous thread: >>8274865
>Try to keep things /vr/ related: Focus should be on 5th Gen (+Dreamcast) games on back. Slight off topic is fine so long as it's related to CRTs, such as later 16:9 models, HD models, etc. Systems with backwards compatibility are also safe territory, as are re-releases on newer hardware. PC CRTs are also welcome and appreciated.
>Produce OC! Bust out your camera and take photos of your CRTs displaying all sorts of games, featuring all sorts of tubes, using all sorts of signals. Getting good shots can be hard, but if you take enough, at least a few will turn out alright.
>Try and give as much information as possible when asking for info on a specific set, or troubleshooting an issue to expedite and help you may receive. As always, Google is your friend and we are your friends with benefits. Do people read this? Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either; Seriously, there's literally 6 years of backlog at this point.
>Share appreciation for other's choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. Always remember to show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Limited discussion of video processing and scaling devices is alright, but remember to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories.

CRT Pastebin (Never Ever) : http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Guide to CRT Hunting : http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
Guide to Video Monitors : http://pastebin.com/pQX4N6gZ
General Purpose CRT Adjustment Guide : http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/guide_setup_adjust_arcade_monitors_v1.2.0.pdf
S-Video Pasta : http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
BKM-10R Protocol Info : http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J
JVC RGB card cloning guide : https://pastebin.com/EXqMBfcY

Thread Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdef7fUnzXCUR1o3LBBgv52MqQdR5hOb60FscYZLOaTq0xDCA/viewform

[Anonymous No.8315918]

>>8315908
>>Try to keep things /vr/ related: Focus should be on 5th Gen (+Dreamcast) games on back.
the dangers of copy/pasting OPs

[Anonymous No.8315934]

>>8315918
I was in the archives looking for old pictures, I thought I'd bring back some of the pastebins that might be useful. I deleted the old discord link but forgot to change that. It was even copied from a thread made mere days after the change, too; I got to see and relive the butthurt and spamming

[Anonymous No.8315940]

They hated him because he told them the truth.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3cmYkFxsIqU

[Anonymous No.8315943]

>>8315940
I use component because I found a way to make an affordable set up out of it allowing up to 8 consoles on a single input

[Anonymous No.8315953]

>>8315940
>RGB Vs Component Which is Better
RGB because it's what most people grew up using here

[Anonymous No.8315954]

>>8315908
I have one sitting in my storage building, it's been there for years, I don't even have anything to plug into it, what's the cheapest option? I mostly like psx games

[Anonymous No.8315958]

>>8315954
a wii or rapberry pi, or a cheap small computer if you're handy

[Anonymous No.8315960]

>>8315958
oh wait I missed your psx comment. Your best option is a literal psx or ps2

[Anonymous No.8315983]

>>8315958
>>8315960
It'd be nice to have the option to play consoles I missed out on, and use controllers that aren't crappy third party or old and falling apart. What's the best option for component video out? does usb work well? This is the tv

[Anonymous No.8315995]

>>8315934
Thanks for that, I missed the pastebins

[Anonymous No.8315996]

>>8315960
>>8315983
I also do have a wii, but I never tried any homebrew for it. I did hack it at one point and was able to play wii games off a flash drive, but as soon as I got a new tv, that stopped working for some reason, even though it plays disc games fine

[Anonymous No.8316040]

>>8315940
RGB vs component is splitting hairs. It's also irrelevant 95% of the time because the only consoles where it's even a valid choice are PS2 and Xbox.

[Anonymous No.8316043]

>>8315996
Update your USB loader program, or adjust your settings. It might be trying to force 480p or something silly like that. I had a similar issue a while back

[Anonymous No.8316121]

>>8315908
Found this last week (PVM 6041QM). I knew my only chance at getting one was through the flea, some distant day. Was nasty as hell but dude asked only 3 bucks for it.

I already cleaned it and turns on. The cheapest way to try something on it would be RCA to BNC connector right?

[Anonymous No.8316138]

>>8316121
Well, cheapest would be to just take two pieces of copper wire and physically touch them to the video signal and ground. But yeah, just get a pack of RCA-BNC adapters off amazon.

If it has s-video that's also an easy way to test without waiting for the adapters.

[Anonymous No.8316612]

>>8315940
Once you get to s-video and beyond the real differences become miniscule. People that care that much about ultra sharp pixels should switch to oled and shut the fuck up.

[Anonymous No.8317137]

this the real crt bread?

[Anonymous No.8317239]

>>8314641
Depends, really. If it's in good condition, and you actually get some use out of it, well, those are the prices these days. If you don't use it, and don't hurt it, you could sell it on anyways, i guess.

>>8306651
Tassie anon still here?

[Anonymous No.8317261]

Since there are 2 threads up:
So I've been trying to fix this cabinet TV in whatever spare time I can scrape together (a Zenith B25A10Z). I've replaced 10 of the larger caps (none look damaged anyway, and it didn't help so I guess I have some extra caps now).
But as I was removing the board just now for a better look a little disk popped off. It's apparently a resistor/thermistor.
I don't know a lot about it, but it connects to the degausser.
My TVs symptoms were that it would turn on for a second, but the minute the picture tried to come on the whole thing would shut down. At most I would get a flash of white or a circular rainbow. You can get the flash to be bigger, or the TV to stay on slightly longer if you unplug and replug the TV in after every attempt.
I have to replace this thing now anyway, but what are the odds that this was causing the issue in the first place?
The only other person I've seen describe the exact behavior this thing is exhibiting disappeared from the conversation about it, and the forum he was posting on 5 years ago.

All the thermistors I can find a picture of online have a rubber coating too. This one was just a metal wafer welded to two wires.

Captcha was fucking rude

[Anonymous No.8317283]

I got my hands on a GDM-20D11 SGI monitor a while back and I've been looking to use it as a monitor for my main PC. It has a 13W3 port, but can only use the SGI variant as the SUN ones use a different signal. Most of the adapters I've found online are for using VGA monitors on SGI workstations, but not vice versa. Does this adapter I'm looking for even exist or should I try to make one myself?

[Anonymous No.8317318]

>>8317261
The degassuing circuit is never required to make the set run. Assuming your component does not affect anything else, it won't be the cause.

[Anonymous No.8317328]

>>8317318
Afaik it doesn't, but I'm not terribly savvy on this sort of thing, and don't have it in front of me atm.
I've heard of TVs detecting faults and shitting themselves off to protect from further damage, but I don't know if that would be the case here either. Or if this tv even has that ability. It's from 2001 iirc.

[Anonymous No.8317330]

>>8317328
>shitting
whoops

[Anonymous No.8317340]

>>8317328
Nah, nothing had that kind of protection on the degauss circuit. That was only really the HV and deflection, and some power supply monitoring in PVMs.

[Anonymous No.8317347]

I can't help but watch you Ameribros and Eurofriends post about your cool CRT finds in 2021 with a huge amount of envy. In Australia they have well and truly nearly gone extinct, finding one "in the wild" has become almost impossible. Your only hopes are to pay some idiot zoomer or mum on eBay/Gumtree $100+ for a crappy consumer set with composite only.

Luckily I managed to scoop up a couple of PVMs over 5 years ago, but it's been a sad process trying to help my friends who saw the light too late. I guess the point of this post is to remind you in fortunate positions to make hay while the sun still shines, because the hardware death slowly approaches all of us.

[Anonymous No.8317360]

>>8317340
Alrighty. Well I gotta replace it anyway. Thanks for tempering my expectations.
Hope it's not a bad flyback transformer or some other component I can't find.

[Anonymous No.8317394]

>>8317347
Hmmm, dunno what to think about that. I went hard six years ago down here in Tassie, and i do mean hard, and ended up with like 20 PVMs, though not all at one time. Most of them were 9", and i've moved them on. Stuff still crops up, but it's getting a lot rarer.

Last thing i wanted was a KVHR. I was looking at costs to get one from the mainland, but eventually i found one in Ewaste down here and recalibrated it. Awesome find, i play HD stuff on it all the time.

[Anonymous No.8317425]

>haven’t used a CRT monitor in over 17 years
>get a 19” ViewSonic CRT for retro gaming
>almost mint condition
>build my retro game station
>load up one of my favs, SWAT 3
>
>get motion sickness and a headache after 10 mins

Anyone else have vision problems after switching back to a CRT? I think it’s the slight flickering or blurriness that triggers my motion sickness…

[Anonymous No.8317473]

>>8317394
Hey Tassiebro, do you have any tips/tricks/lore for how us mainlanders might be able to find anything decent? I've recently started calling all the local e-waste companies in my area, but it's turned up nothing. One guy who I spoke to even told me if he sees 1 CRT over the course of a month, that's more than usual in this day and age.

[Anonymous No.8317505]

>>8317425
>it’s the slight flickering or blurriness
Shouldn't be happening at correct resolutions/refresh rates. What are your running it at?

[Anonymous No.8317590]

>>8317473
>any tips/tricks/lore for how us mainlanders might be able to find anything decent?
Nope, soz. I wrote the CRT-hunting pasta in the OP (though others edited it) but the options look narrower to me today. Maybe hard waste days? Or tip shops? Admittedly, in Tassie, in Hobart, most councils don't do hard waste collection days. There are a couple of big paid-entry tips or landfills, and each one has a tip shop associated with it. Like a coop or business that makes money by providing a free dumping point for hard-waste in reasonable condition that they might be able to fix up or re-sell. Same for e-waste save that you can dump anything in any condition for free, normally. I picked up my KVHR at one (an interesting process as it had been outside in the rain for a few days on the e-waste pile and they didn't want to lift it and so couldn't sell it). I tend to go there to restock cables (as material for building better cables), small power supplies, a few older GPU's for crt_emudriver, VGA splitters and switchboxes. They used to have huge piles of CRT's ying around outside loose, and while these seem to have dried up they still normally have a Trinitron or two for sale, and some low-end PC CRTs.

I grew up in Syd, and that's so spread out you have to drive for an hour to even get to a landfill. I have no idea if there are similar shops attached, but i imagine there must be. Or you could hang out at the front of a landfill with a sign or something, lol.

[Anonymous No.8317680]

>>8315908
I need to get into the service menu for my Sony KV-27FS120 To fix the convergence. Unfortunately I only have a Sony remote with less buttons than required.

[Anonymous No.8317907]

Redpill me on this, gonna trade him my dreamcast

[Anonymous No.8317920]

>>8317907
bad trade desu, you may as well buy some modern chinese handheld at that point

[Anonymous No.8317947]

hey bros. i've been offered a mistubishi set for $100AUD. anyone got any experience with their sets at all? especially in PAL regions? i'll see if i can get a specific model off of the lady but just curious about general experiences

[Anonymous No.8317950]

>>8317907
I found mine jvc for cheap. Its neat but too small for a main tv.

[Anonymous No.8317951]

>>8317907
this an aussie listing? think i saw it earlier
for that size it seems a little bit more of a collector's thing to me

[Anonymous No.8317995]

>>8317947
Mitsubishi made great sets. If it's in good nick, DESU that's not a terrible price right now. Things have gotten pretty nuts, there's not a single free CRT on gumtree anymore. Contrasted with a year ago when half the listings were still free. It looks like it's a 90's set, and will have a remote - which means it will almost certainly handle PAL/NTSC fine, and be RGB-moddable without much trouble, relatively speaking. Got a model No.?

[Anonymous No.8317998]

>>8317995
unfortunately not. i know it's a 14-incher now, and that's good because it means i should be able to have it as a desk set, but that's about it. i'll see if i can find any possible candidates

[Anonymous No.8318017]

>>8317951
Yeah aussie

[Anonymous No.8318037]

>>8317998
hmm, i would have picked it as 19" at least, but you'd be able to lift that too. Probably 14" like they say it is.

[Anonymous No.8318082]

>>8318037
considering she's dropping it off tomorrow I'd definitely say it's 14'-19' max, she looks like a pretty skinny woman so it'd probably be a hell of a pain to carry anything bigger herself
fuck bros i can't wait for some goddamn scanlines. it's been YEARS since i've actually used a CRT for gayman

[Anonymous No.8318156]

>>8318037
alright she ended up dropping it off tonight actually
it's a CT20AM3. I can't find much info at all online, and it looks like it has composite only and mono audio, which is an absolute bummer
definitely not the PVM I was hoping to get before afterpay snatched away my hopes but I guess it'll do for now as a starter, and as long as mitsubishi's stuff is decent enough quality I guess I'll take anything
poor lady ended up revealing her life story about how her partner died and she's turned to drugs I think, really rough so I guess I'm fine with afterpaying a little, needs it more than I do

[Anonymous No.8318157]

>>8318156
overpaying* whoops can't proofread for shit

[Anonymous No.8318171]

>>8318156
Not to rub it in, but a curved-glass set like that, that looks as old as that, was never going to have component inputs. Though i guess S-Video was a possibility. Did you get the remote? Does it have an onscreen display showing volume and channel numbers or whatever? If so, you could look into RGB modding it.

[Anonymous No.8318280]

What's a good relatively cheap component switcher. I'd probably only connect maybe 4 things up to it.

[Anonymous No.8318294]

>>8318171
no remote strangely, guess she forgot it
it has an onscreen display, yeah
honestly I don't know nearly enough about CRTs to even remotely consider opening up one yet. Don't feel like getting thrown across the wall kek

[Anonymous No.8318526]

Finally accepted that I'll never be able to get my CRT's image to be as perfect as I want it
Since then I've actually been _playing games_ while using it

[Anonymous No.8318910]

>>8318280
Sakura store ore something has a 5to 1 comp with 5to 1 rgb Scart input as well

[Anonymous No.8318949]

>>8318280
Any should do just fine. Just make sure to get a mechanical switcher

[Anonymous No.8319298]

my crt have a display stain in the upper right corner.
is visible in some games more than other.
whats going on

[Anonymous No.8319302]

>>8319298
mangets

[Anonymous No.8319320]

>>8319302
can you elaborate?
is the display done for?
the tv is close to my lcd, can that be it?

[Anonymous No.8319323]

>>8319320
i mean: the crt is close to my smart tv, can that be it?

[Anonymous No.8319334]

>>8319320
did you move the tv recently? Rotate it? Bring anything magnetic near it? They're sensitive to changes in magnetic fields, you need to degauss it to recalibrate its current position

[Anonymous No.8319342]

>>8319334
Yes i did.
I moved it from one apartment to another in
the back seat of a car.
Is 'degaussing' the CRT difficult to do?
Can an inexperience person do it, or may I fuck it even more?

[Anonymous No.8319352]

>>8319342
the tv has a degaussing coil built in, albeit for consumer sets they're often very weak. It will degauss itself each time it's been left off for a while and then turned on, and each time it does this it will get a bit better. To manually degauss you need a rapidly changing magnetic field, such as with a dc power drill or a degaussing coil designed for the purpose

[Anonymous No.8319358]

>>8319352
>It will degauss itself each time it's been left off for a while and then turned on

beautiful.
no need to unplug it right?

[Anonymous No.8319360]

>>8319358
no; you;ll know when it degausses, it makes that brr noise like it's rattling on. If you turn it off and then back on right away, you'll notice it doesn't make that noise

[Anonymous No.8319392]

>>8319360
thank you anon!
hopefully my tv is ok

[Anonymous No.8319463]

Is there a reason my crt gives me more dandruff than normal? Usually it’s not too bad, but I’ve been getting really big chunks and they smell weird.

[Anonymous No.8319468]

>>8319463
RIP anon

[Anonymous No.8319494]

>>8315908
You people still use those old outdated boxes? i switched to projectors long time ago

[Anonymous No.8319503]

I'm getting some slight color banding on my FS100
is there anything on the service menu I can adjust to fix it?
I couldn't take a pic of it but it looks kinda like pic related (minus the blocks of course)
its not really noticeable outside of certain dark gradients but I would really prefer if it wasn't there

[Anonymous No.8319527]

>>8319358
Degaussing happens when the power is turned off and back on
It won’t degauss when it goes to standby

[Anonymous No.8319551]

>>8319527
How long do you have to wait before off-on can be effective?

[Anonymous No.8319563]

>>8319551
about ten minutes usually,

[Anonymous No.8319569]

>>8318280
Which Metal Slug game is that one?

[Anonymous No.8319576]

>be poorfag
>live in an old cold house
>want a high refresh rate gaming PC
>want some heating
>cant afford it
>buy a CRT Monitor for like 10 bucks
>can do 160 Hz
>gets warm and nice so it warms up my room a bit
why is CRT tech so nice guys

[Anonymous No.8319586]

>>8319576
>tfw my fx-8320 and r9 390 are chugging along in the winter
feels good on the toes, man

[Anonymous No.8319595]

>>8319586
>still on a fx8320
brave and wholesome, i remember i fucked up the pins on my fx 8320E and they upgraded me to a 8350 due to warranty

[Anonymous No.8319659]

>>8319494
What CRT filter do you use for your projector, though?

[Anonymous No.8319662]

>>8319569
it is the FIRST

[Anonymous No.8319790]

>>8317907
get a consumer crt you dumb nigger

[Anonymous No.8321206]

Living in Lima, it's wack to see how people will sell Sylvanias for $25 just because they're also a VCR+DVD+TV combo while giving away WEGAs for about 10 or so bucks.
3rd world anons, how's your market like?

[Anonymous No.8321675]

Love my profeel

[Anonymous No.8321681]

>>8321675
>that profeel when no profeel

[Anonymous No.8322628]

Seeing a lot of Aussies. Sorry to hear about your CRT woes.

Anyone here in Southern Ontario? I have a 21" HP branded Trinitron monitor that I want to give away.

>>8321675
Nice plants

[Anonymous No.8322789]

>>8322628
GOD FUCKING DAMN IT I WISH I WAS CANADIAN
FUCK

[Anonymous No.8322828]

I ordered this component rgb converter switch from otaku-games a month ago. Still processing. Support hasn't responded to me. Anyone have experience with this company? I'm on the verge of starting a chargeback.
https://otaku-games.com/misc/rgb/scart-switches/6-port-rgb-scart-rca-component-withrgb-to-component-converter-switch-with-housing.html

[Anonymous No.8323708]

>>8322789

No, you don't. It mostly sucks. But hey, we do at least have CRTs, at least for now.

My offer is open to anyone willing to drive to Toronto.

[Anonymous No.8323757]

>>8322628
>Seeing a lot of Aussies. Sorry to hear about your CRT woes.
?

[Anonymous No.8325327]

Bump

[Anonymous No.8325451]

>>8323757
Serious lack of CRTs in straya on account of the boomers having thrown them out long ago

[Anonymous No.8325481]

>>8323708
As I'm a dirty cali-cuck being Canadian would a lateral move

[Anonymous No.8325724]

>>8325481
It's a downgrade in some ways. Californians make more money and have a better climate. They also wouldn't fly their flags at half-mast for half a year if they found some dead Indians.

But I digress. CRT market in Canada is... not bad. Just picked up a little 20" Sony from someone today who ended up giving it to me for free. Gonna give it to my brother so he has something for his cozy apartment setup.

[Anonymous No.8325804]

For those with smaller consumer sets: is it normal to have black bars on the sides of the display with no horizontal scale adjustment? Do you just have to live with it? I only have a ps2 but that's what it's affecting, no bars when it's on static

[Anonymous No.8325836]

>>8325804
Many PS2 games underscan, so you get black borders around the image. If you adjust your TV to that, then the other things you plug in will be cropped instead.

[Anonymous No.8325851]

>>8325836
I'm only getting them on the side though, it's not a perfect square border around the display. Or is that how the ps2's underscan worked?

[Anonymous No.8325887]

>>8325851
It depends on the game, but usually it's a bit on all sides of the screen. The TVs overscan obviously varies on each set, too. There's a reason many games featured a display area adjustment in the settings.
Did you check your TV's geometry, etc. with the 240p Test Suite? Maybe you need to stretch or move the picture a bit in the service menu.
If the only thing you have right now is a PS2, you can run the suite using a SNES or Mega Drive emulator via FMCB, it should display correctly.

[Anonymous No.8325997]

>>8325887
I’ll see if I can get the test suite on an emulator working. I’d tolerate a bit of underscan but this seems really egregious, not to mention the diagonal tilt of the display. I’m incapable of finding component TVs with good geometry

[Anonymous No.8326006]

Here’s picrel, sorry

[Anonymous No.8326952]

>>8325804
>>8325997
>>8326006
I just tested with an n64, display looks perfect. Black bars are still showing up on ps1 and 2, so it’s a software problem. Is there any way to correct the display with free mc boot or something?

[Anonymous No.8327284]

Sony Trinitron still have display stains.
Would a degauss wand work on it? (pic)
Read Sony crts are sensitive to external degaussing.

[Anonymous No.8327308]

>>8322828
I waited about 4 months with no contact. I had to get paypal involved to get my money back. If you do decided to get a refund go through paypal because they will try to keep a percentage as a restocking fee.

[Anonymous No.8327485]

Found this bad boy in the trunk of a limo at the junkyard today. What are the odds it actually works? The trunk was left open and it's been there for at least a month.

[Anonymous No.8327493]

>>8327485
looks rusty, but you can never tell

[Anonymous No.8327513]

How fake were those rumors about CRTs imploding often or causing eye damage? I only remember that a repairman or two died on my block messing with some Sharps 20 years ago or so.

[Anonymous No.8327516]

>>8317425
I needed a smaller screen for my motion sickness, personally. Sometimes, it's more a health thing than anything

[Anonymous No.8327816]

>>8327485
It’ll need a good restoration to be acceptable, though it probably turns on at the very least.

[Anonymous No.8327857]

>>8327513
>eye damage
That was propaganda to get kids to watch less TV. "Your eyes will go square" was something my mother said.
>imploding
That's very, very thick glass, only way they implode is if it's extremely poorly manufactured. You can smash the front and it won't implode, just another myth.
The only true old wives tale is that the capacitors do hold enough charge to potentially kill you. Might be what killed those repairmen.

[Anonymous No.8327876]

>>8327857
>The only true old wives tale is that the capacitors do hold enough charge to potentially kill you.
Not true. I spoke with a retired Sony tech about this. He told me that nobody has ever died working on a TV/monitor - said the worst it could do is knock you on your ass.

[Anonymous No.8327894]

>>8327876
>He told me that nobody has ever died working on a TV/monitor
this. I've been saying this for years now. Look online, you cannot find a single story or article about someone being killed from CRT maintenance. Every time some redditor tries to dissuade someone from opening up their tv because of this I cringe.

[Anonymous No.8327910]

>>8327513
>CRTs causing eye damage?
If you need glasses, chances are you were born needing glasses. That's why your eyes strain when you watch TV and need to watch it up close to see anything.

[Anonymous No.8327923]

>>8327876
I wonder if it was something else, like one of those macs that have a CRT screen. Could've been the power supply that did them in, even if they were trying to repair the monitor. No clue since it was so long ago, but good to know it's safe.

[Anonymous No.8327924]

>>8327857
>>8327876
>>8327894
the deadly voltage is all trapped under the anode cap, it literally can't get out as long as you don't go under there

[Anonymous No.8327936]

>>8315953
Shithole PAL countries are not the majority here. This is an NTSC nationalist board.

[Anonymous No.8327995]

>>8327910
>>8327910
All I heard was something about the refresh rate making your eyes more tired or causing motion sickness. Not that it'd cause eyesight damage, just that some people with shitty monitors end up using artificial tears because of dryness or having to fiddle with settings.

[Anonymous No.8328001]

>>8315953
I have fond memories as a kid trying to figure out how the hell I was supposed to plug in the 5 component cables

[Anonymous No.8328014]

>>8327876
It "is* true, but you'd have to have some sort of heart condition, or be doing something really stupid. Those capacitors give out a lot of current but the voltage won't kill a healthy person, depending on the path to ground it can cook anything on its way out though, and that path to ground might be through a stud on your clothing or a zip, not your shoes. That's why I said charge, not voltage (as anon said, the high voltage stuff is buried deep). Don't underestimate what high direct current can do, it tenses your muscles and you can't let go, and literally cooks you. So yes it can kill you, but it's far more likely just to give you a horrible shock. But it's at least technically possible, unlike the going blind thing.

[Anonymous No.8328054]

If someone wants a cute and small CRT, are Trinitrons the ones to hunt down? Don't have much room and motion sickness hits me on big TVs, so I'm wondering what are some good options or sizes to try.
Also, do people still use their CRTs for general computer use, or do they just stick to modern monitors? Always wondered who posts here on a CRT

[Anonymous No.8328237]

>>8328054
trinitrons are popular because they're generally all good, so you don't have to try so hard researching good CRT models. There are plenty of good non-sony crts, but if you don't want to get deep into the rabbithole, yeah find a trini and just play games on it. Don't think about it too much.

[Anonymous No.8328263]

>>8328237
Does it having a screen that's 9 inches or lower compromise anything like lightgun games, etc?
Also, sorry for the newbie question, but do Trinitrons do S-Video? RGB seems neat, but I can do plenty well just with some S-Video, honestly. Or does it depend on the TV?

[Anonymous No.8328285]

>>8315953
lmao no one in PAL regions can afford internet

[Anonymous No.8328401]

>>8327910
I definitely had 20/20 vision as a young child. I remember always wishing I could wear glasses because I thought they were cool. Then when I was ~13 or so my vision did deteriorate and I needed glasses, which I hated. Just didn't wear them even though I couldn't see that well. Then I got contacts for most of my teens until I realized those were an even bigger PITA and went back to glasses.

[Anonymous No.8328436]

>>8328263
>Does it having a screen that's 9 inches
where the fuck did you find a trinitron smaller then 9 inches?
> but do Trinitrons do S-Video?
Triniton isn't one singular model. It's what sony called every single CRT they made. It will do s-video if you look on the back and see an s video port.

[Anonymous No.8328442]

>>8328263
>but do Trinitrons do S-Video?
Triniton isn't one singular model. It's what sony called every single CRT they made. It will do s-video if you look on the back and see an s video port.

[Anonymous No.8328446]

>>8328263
A screen smaller then 9 inches compromises your ability to see fuck all

[Anonymous No.8328451]

>>8328401
Your vision deteriorates over time, but it wasn't caused by the TV. It's mostly genetic.

[Anonymous No.8328478]

>>8328446
Guess I'll stick to 9" or so, then. Years on handhelds and the psOne monitor have me weirdly auto-adjusted to those smaller screens. Was loving the looks of something like this, but seems like it's just RF and Composite. Real beaut though

[Anonymous No.8328515]

>>8328478
>but seems like it's just RF and Composite
you will not notice a real difference between video signals at that screen size (except for rf), the flaws become way too small to visually appear

[Anonymous No.8329207]

I threw out 2 barely used crt's in about 2007, the degause didn't work and another had a flaky switch, I lightly used them for 2 years. I had just moved out of my parents and at the time my concern for these was just insignificant. Sure you can get old ones but most have signs of wear on them.

>>8317590
Sux that people throw em away because they think no one wants them. Last one I found was at a swap meet. I remember trying to take a big old one from the back of e waste in a harvey norman bin area and then I drop it and then this security car drives past. Before that I literally lifted one out of a big dumper from the same place and just wheeled it back home at night time. A lot of old ones you see have been thrashed, used for 6 hours a day for years.

[Anonymous No.8329291]

>>8322828
Got mine yesterday after 3weeks waiting. Shipping took a total of 4 days in the end. To Europe.

[Anonymous No.8329450]

>>8329291
Dang wtf, I ordered 4 weeks ago.

[Anonymous No.8329493]

>>8327910
>If you need glasses, chances are you were born needing glasses.
Factually untrue. Assuming adequate nutrition, hardly anyone should need glasses. Short sightedness can be caused by focusing at short distances during your maturation period. Thats why kids staring at screens all day is causing a surge is short sightedness.

[Anonymous No.8329551]

Is there anything that can be done for scratches on PVM screens? I know some come with anti-glare coatings that can be taken off, but I'm pretty sure that was only on the later models, and mine is definitely just unprotected glass.

I stupidly caused the scratch myself many years ago when I first got it. Was holding the tube against my torso for optimal center of gravity, but my pants' button rubbed against the screen and caused a scratch. Nothing too major, I've dealt with it for years. Most of the time you can't even seen it and when you do, it just looks like a small piece of hair stuck to the tube.

Aren't there products people use for eyeglasses and windshields to 'fill in' light scratches in glass like this? Anyone ever tried something like that?

[Anonymous No.8329994]

>>8329551
Try rubbing toothpaste on it

[Anonymous No.8330223]

>>8329493
>Short sightedness can be caused by focusing at short distances during your maturation period
So, genetics. Kids are curious and stare at things up closely all the time, because they can actually focus up close without eyestrain better than adults. Hell, I did this all the time (and other dumb shit like winning Sun-staring contests) and to this day I don't need glasses.
Sitting close to a TV is sign of nearsightedness, not the cause.
https://www.aao.org/eye-health/ask-ophthalmologist-q/can-close-tv-viewing-damage-eyes

[Anonymous No.8330395]

>>8328515
Do many here stick to S-Video and RGB for the most part, or are the memes about using Composite actually true? Only seen Composite being used for Sega consoles, never PS1

[Anonymous No.8330625]

How do you feel about RGB mods?

[Anonymous No.8330710]

How do games look on an HD CRT?
I want a consumer CRT specifically because I hate how sharp and perfect PVMs look (I dont see the point in getting one as opposed to a flatpanel), but I have a few retro rereleases on HD consoles like the Switch and on PC that I wanna get running on a CRT too, not to mention widescreen Wii/Xbox and whatnot.
Problem is, I'm wondering how do stuff like 3rd/4th/5th gen games look on an HD CRT? Does it smooth the pixels well enough, or is it too sharp like PVMs that it's not worth it?
FTR I would be planning to play lower-res games through a Retrotink-5X so the HDCRT's internal scaling lag wouldnt be an issue, and I'm aware the 5X can downscale HD signals as well, but I also really want widescreen... how easy/hard is it to find a widescreen CRT that isnt "HD"? Or just 480p?

[Anonymous No.8330716]

>>8330395
It's all preference, but most people just use whatever their tv has. Many people I know have gotten pvmemes and decided their 90s composite only set actually looks better, but some think the opposite

[Anonymous No.8331056]

Aside from Sony wich consumer tv had the "Trinitron" technology (aperture grill)? Wikipedia only lists Mitsubishi.

[Anonymous No.8331137]

>>8330625
Got my N64 RGB modded. Looks damn good on my PVM and BVM so I'm happy.

[Anonymous No.8331145]

>>8331056
Mitsubishis might be the only alternative as far as TVs go. ViewSonic made the Sonictron but that was for computer monitors.

[Anonymous No.8331158]

>>8331137
I meant moreso modding your TV, for those of us without PVMs or the like.

[Anonymous No.8331339]

>>8331158
I don't have any experience modding a CRT, but from the videos I've seen online it seems like a really basic mode to do, so long as you take the proper safety precautions and can find a guide/schematic for your model of course. One of these days I might do one of these mods, just for shits and giggles.
That said, I don't really see it being worth it in most cases unless you just want to tinker as a hobby. RGB/Component transcoders should be easily available and there are plenty of later CRTs that have component inputs. Meaning no need to get your hands dirty if you don't want to, with no drop in quality. From a pragmatic perspective, I'd ONLY go with an RGB mod if for whatever reason I absolutely cannot find a component-enabled TV.

[Anonymous No.8331360]

>>8331137
>rgb

[Anonymous No.8331405]

>>8331339
For a second, I thought you said RGB to Composite. I've got a hefty 27" on hold at a relative's house, but it's RF and Composite only, no clue what I should do.

[Anonymous No.8331417]

>>8331405
Are you instead able to get your hands on a component CRT? For example the silver trinitrons from the early 2000s should have it. But yeah, if you're coming up snake eyes on that, then RGB modding a composite-only TV isn't an unreasonable option.

That said, a lot of this will come down to the quality of the TV. Like if geometry and convergence are all fucked up and the tube is heavily used and blurry/dim, I probably wouldn't bother. Simply because consumer CRTs are still easy to obtain for free. So if you're going to spend time doing an RGB mod, I'd just make sure it's for a TV that's pretty good quality already.

[Anonymous No.8331430]

>>8330710
I can't tell you how it would look, but you are aware that HD CRT's introduce noticeable lag to any 240p/480i signals? Would you be ok with that?

[Anonymous No.8331439]

>>8330710
>Or just 480p?
I think like one ever existed? If at all.

[Anonymous No.8331523]

>>8331417
Snake eyes for sure. My main problem is that I'm clumsy and unironically do have a weak heart. Used to have a pacemaker because of a taxi accident.
TV geometry is fine, so I'll probably look up to see if any place does RGB modding in the east coast.

[Anonymous No.8331940]

>>8331430
Like I said, I would hook up a scaler to linedouble SD to bump up the resolution and avoid the lag from an HDCRT's internal scaling as much as possible.

I just want to know what these sorts of games look like when doing so; ie, so that dithering and such works properly. If it's too sharp, maybe an added light blurring filter would help?

[Anonymous No.8332420]

>>8331940
240p doubled to 480p on an HD CRT looks too blocky to me, similar to how I don't like the look of 240p games blown up on an LCD. However, if you have the ability to overlay a scanline pattern over the 480p image to get 'fake' 240p, it can actually look pretty good. For example if you run 240p Test Suite in 480p on dreamcast or wii it will display with built-in fake scanlines.

You won't completely get rid of lag though. At least on the HD CRT I've used, 480p gives about 2 frames of lag. Still much better than 240p/480i where you double that amount of lag. Not sure about 1080i though. Not a problem at all IMO but I just wanted to point that out.

[Anonymous No.8332480]

>>8332420
I literally do not care about scanlines one single bit; I just want the pixel smoothing, which's why I'm asking if anyone has images and such so I can confirm if dithering either works or is possible to make work on an HDCRT.

And dude, "line doubling" doesn't just mean literally only doubling it to 480p lmao. Modern scalers like the RT5X and later the OSSCPro can scale images straight to 720p or even 540p/1080i, meaning it can be utterly lagless on some CRT units that have the option.

[Anonymous No.8332484]

I just realized my tone might possibly be read as a bit rude in that message, my bad, not the intent I was going for lol. Was just trying to be clear is all

[Anonymous No.8332524]

[Anonymous No.8332550]

>>8332480
If you don't find any answers here, try looking through something like shmups forum
>meaning it can be utterly lagless on some CRT units that have the option.
Nah, HD CRTs have inherent lag because of the digital processing. Plus you're introducing a scaler into your signal, when compared to plugging a console direct into an analog CRT you're gonna have some lag.
Sorry for the wall of text but the answer is get an HD CRT and see how you feel. Lag always comes down to personal preference and if you're using scalers then image quality is customizable to preference as well.

[Anonymous No.8333261]

>>8332480
Sure dude, it has "pixel smoothing"

[Anonymous No.8333634]

>>8322628
>Seeing a lot of Aussies. Sorry to hear about your CRT woes.

CRTs went away nearly all at once in Australia for 3 reasons.

Reason 1:
Federal government ran a welfare program from 2004-2009 called the “baby bonus”.
$5000 lump sum for every live birth. No questions asked. It quickly got nicknamed the “plasma TV bonus”.

After 2009 it started being means-tested (if you were rich: you became ineligible), and from 2009 it came as fortnightly instalments.


Reason 2:
Global financial crisis of 2007-2008.

Federal government paid stimulus payments to nearly every adult citizen.
Nicknamed “Rudd-bucks” after then-Prime Minister Kevin Rudd.

The ultra-poor, old, and disabled got $1400 in a lump sum.
I myself purchased a enterprise-grade UPS from APC. Still in use today!

To ordinary working folk: $950 in a lump sum. Even the rich got about $300 I think.

Retailers who were agile and smart saw this coming and ordered tons of new plasma/LCD TVs and sold them for exactly the same price as the payment.

Reason 3.
Switching off analog TV.

Because most people had purchased newer non-CRTs with their welfare/stimulus; digital set-top boxes did not become as common and widespread (eg cheap) as they did in other nations.

Switching off analog signals happened in stages/territories from 2010-2013.

By this time, the benefits of HD (1080i) were well-known, so there were not many Luddites/stragglers left that fiercely held on to old tech.


Most CRTs were literally dumped on the curb as “hard rubbish” in 2009/2010. Nationwide.

[Anonymous No.8333661]

>>8333634
>Retailers who were agile and smart saw this coming and ordered tons of new plasma/LCD TVs and sold them for exactly the same price as the payment.

Kogan.com.au only exists today because of this!

[Anonymous No.8333754]

>>8333634
>Federal government paid stimulus payments to nearly every adult citizen.
>Nicknamed “Rudd-bucks” after then-Prime Minister Kevin Rudd.

This policy was the reason why Australia was THE ONLY first-world nation to avoid recession due to the GFC.

The GFC in Australia is mostly remembered as a time of great spending (flatscreen TVs), and hearing on the news that the rest of the world was going to shit.

[Anonymous No.8333943]

Is it ok to get help here w/ fixing my crt? the horizontal lines are off.

[Anonymous No.8334021]

>>8333754
No, this is just bullshit
The reasons were we had a healthy export relationship with china and our banks didn’t have any or low amount of money in the US housing market

[Anonymous No.8334049]

>>8333943
Post a pic

[Anonymous No.8334291]

>>8333261
Yea but how strong is the screen's softness is what I'm trying ta find out, lole

>>8332550
>Nah, HD CRTs have inherent lag because of the digital processing
Not necessarily! Alot of it boils down to what model TV you have, whether you're using composite/component/HDMI, etc. 720p and lower almost always has a fair bit of lag, but some TVs have a near-lagless option for 1080i signals only, so if you use an external scaler and enable that, it should probably be pretty good. Will there still be some lag? Sure possibly, but I've seen a shmups thread where people have gotten lightguns to work on HDCRTs because of the RT5x's scaling. That sounds pretty good to my ears, imo.

[Anonymous No.8334761]

>>8332480
dithering is a hack of the composite (or rf) signal, not the screen

[Anonymous No.8334784]

>>8334761
I really wish people understood this better. Can't tell you how many times I've had to explain that it's the shit quality video signal blending colors together, not due to being on a CRT.

[Anonymous No.8334863]

>>8334761
>>8334784
Y not both

[Anonymous No.8336240]

CRTs suck

[Anonymous No.8336425]

My CRT doesn't support composite, only RF. I want to hook up my PS2 slim, GC and DC to it. I had one of these as a kid, don't remember it harming the picture at all. Anyone else know if they're any good?

[Anonymous No.8336516]

>>8336425
Do you have some special attachment to that particular TV? In general ones that are RF-only are total shitboxes and I'd honestly just recommend finding a better TV, which shouldn't be an issue at all.
Having said that, if you absolutely need to use that particular TV, I'd recommend just getting a free VCR. Put your mustard/ketchup/mayo cables into the VCR inputs, and the RF output goes to the TV. Also means you can use a common AV switcher for your multiple consoles.

[Anonymous No.8336568]

Got this baby semi recently. It's amazing. I use my OSSC/MiSTer to line double shit for it, since it doesn't support 240p natively. Guy I bought it from even had the thing's original manual. It's pretty rad.

[Anonymous No.8336618]

>>8336516
CRTs are harder to come by in thrift stores and I'm not paying eBay prices. So I'm sticking with my shitbox. It looks good when playing consoles that use RF.

[Anonymous No.8336638]

>>8336618
Have you checked craigslist? I see boomers on there all the time begging someone to haul away their trinitrons and whatever else.

[Anonymous No.8336934]

>>8315908
How can I do HDMI / VGA to good 15kHz RGB?
Basically connect a 15kHz RGB monitor to a modern PC.

I.e. DP to VGA to 15kHz RGB? Etc.

[Anonymous No.8336939]

>>8336934
And under "good" I mean that I can get proper 240p and 480i signals.

[Anonymous No.8336959]

>>8336934
Your best bet is a line multiplier like a well confirmed OSSC or a Retrotink scaler. Depending on what inputs you want, each one has their benefits and downfalls. That will convert it to HDMI. If you need it to be VGA, you can convert to VGA from here. Or, if you are just looking to do display port like you described, then you can very easily get from HDMI to display port.

I do the OSSC's HDMI to VGA route to get it to show up on my monitor.

[Anonymous No.8336968]

>>8336959
Oh no, thanks for the good and detailed post anon but I mean the other way around! I want to use a 15kHz monitor, not a 31kHz one.

Basically VGA to SCART.

[Anonymous No.8336985]

>>8336968
Oh. In that case, you can get a RetroTINK 2x. That has a mode where it's simply is a pass-through. 240p in and 240p out. Come to think of it, so does the OSSC. Basically it just converts the same signal to 240p. You would then just get a zero lag HDMI to VGA converter.

If you want DOWNSCALING, as in, 480p or 720p in to 240p out, the RetroTINK 5x actually has that feature, but it is expensive.

[Anonymous No.8337025]

>>8336968
https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/product/vga2scart/
The only caveat is that if you want 240p or 480i (or pal equivalents) then your graphics card must support it, which usually means modded drivers, and as far as I'm aware only ATI/AMD cards have appropriate modded drivers. An alternative would be to downscale using a GBS-C, but then you're getting into quite expensive territory.

[Anonymous No.8337046]

>>8336516
I picked up a VCR/DVD player combo since it was the only one that had stereo but it doesn't seem to be working. Perhaps it's because its's because of the DVD player?

[Anonymous No.8337087]

Finally got a set of good magnetically shielded speakers for my setup

[Anonymous No.8337091]

Finally got a set of good magnetically shielded speakers for my setup

[Anonymous No.8337191]

>>8336934
>>8336939
>>8336968

This guide is long and detailed and consequently painful, but it explains most of what you'll want to know.

https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/76809-a-guide-to-connecting-your-windows-pc-to-an-sd-crt-tv-pvm-or-arcade-monitor/page/4/#comment-1233103

Needs updating as HDMI for newer AMD cards is perfectly viable if you can find an HDMI-to-VGA dongle that will pass 15kHz RGBS ok. Older model converters, often ones using the AG6200 chip, which is basically all the old cheap ones, are normally fine. Newer ones are a crapshoot. Spending a bit more on a brand name one might help, IDK.

[Anonymous No.8337245]

>>8337191
Actually, looking at it, you might run into cot-clock minimums on newer AMD cards. Might be worth looking into, or just get a slightly older AMD card.

[Anonymous No.8337260]

Hey, “my crt is showing weird color bleed” anon here.
I posted here a few days ago and you said that my issue could very well be a yoke problem.

Well, i unfortunately haven’t been able to actually get my crt fixed. Today I played a ps2 game, and saw that my crt’s geometry got worse. Played games anyways. Later I heard a crack sound and saw that the geometry got slightly worse and immediately was certain that it was a yoke problem. Do I send the tv to repair asap?

[Anonymous No.8337264]

>>8337260
Colour bleed is not likely to be a yoke problem. Can you post a decent pic or two?

[Anonymous No.8337336]

>>8337264
Unfortunately I didn’t take any pics of my CRT today and I’m too afraid of doing so now, I’ve even taken a shower and locked the room with my TV in it so here have a picture I took at the tail end of October. It was like this until today, with the upper left edge getting more distorted as I kept playing. I only use my CRT for about an hour every few days, and it’s a Southern Hemisphere model of the Sony KV-25FS120 (south American version of the KV-24FS120).

[Anonymous No.8337345]

>>8337336
Also sorry for samefagging, but I forgot to say that right now it’s on top of my clothes drawer. I originally didn’t mind it since I thought I was gonna get an actual entertainment center for it sooner rather than later but I now firmly believe that being on top of a piece of furniture I touch a lot has made this problem happen more quickly.

[Anonymous No.8337571]

>>8337336
If I had to guess it's probably a failing power supply

[Anonymous No.8337582]

>>8337336
does that underscan and tilt bother you?

[Anonymous No.8338152]

Finally spent a few hours adjusting geometry and playing a game on a PVM I got at goodwill recently. Need to track down a decent component cable for my Wii - it already looks pretty good over composite but there's some NTSC color artifacting that gets through. (It looks way better than my shitty camera shows)
It's a PVM-20L2MD so 480i component is the best it will take. Oddly enough there is a digital SDI input card but pretty sure that has the same limitations.

Eventually I'll get around to working on the other unit I got with it, a 1953ST in bad shape that probably needs recapping.

[Anonymous No.8338243]

I know this is something normal people dont give a shit about, but anyone have any tips on improving an RF connection signal?

Yeah, i know its shit, i grew up with it, but I recently hooked up my C64 via RF since for some reason either the unit or the composite cable im using is only displaying in black and white, but RF gives me color. However I am experiening a lot of static interferance, a lot more then I ever recall having to deal with. Like I can adjust some by moving around the cable, but I know it was never this shitty. Are my wires probably just shitty for it now a days, should i try different RF connection boxes or does the receiver inside the TV actually need to be adjusted?

[Anonymous No.8338308]

>>8338243
Weird, is your C64 and TV from the same region? I usually think of staticy b&w image as being an NTSC/PAL mismatch.
If that's not the case, do you live in a city or in a less densely packed area? RF will pick up more interference in the city vs the countryside

[Anonymous No.8338310]

>>8338152
>PVM I got at goodwill recently
what other magic tricks can you do

[Anonymous No.8338335]

>>8338308
That could be it, last time I really used this stuff I was living out in the suburbs and now im in a small city. I have a Sharp NES tv and I can pick up radio broadcasts on it just from turning it on.

Is there anything I can do to reduce the interference I may be receiving? I was using my Famicom via RF not too long ago and it was the normal fuzzy, but I wasnt getting all this static interference, so idk maybe the older sets are just worse in that regard with shielding it out?

Also going back to the C64, are the composite cables possibly designed in a way that they would be different if they were intended for PAL, but being used on a NTSC unit? I highly doubt they are anyway, I always used RF and I honestly dont even know where I got the cable from in the first place, pretty sure it was in a box of C64 stuff I got, unless maybe its for the VIC20? But I imagine it would be the same cable anyway.

[Anonymous No.8338363]

>>8337571
I don’t know the exact problem either, but if it’s a failing power supply it feels especially worrying to me, to be honest. I guess I should not plug in the TV in until I can get someone to repair it.
>>8337582
The underscan, not that much since I think it’s a geometry issue, but the tilt s bothering me more and more. It’s definitely getting worse.

[Anonymous No.8338407]

>>8338335
It's not the cables, but the onboard composite video encoder that's different in PAL/NTSC machines. You'd need to replace a crystal and probably one of the ICs inside to convert it to another region.
It would probably be easier and more convenient to just a TV that can decode both standards.

[Anonymous No.8338438]

>>8338335
>Is there anything I can do to reduce the interference I may be receiving?
A cheap ghetto-tier thing you could try out would just be to wrap the console+TV together with tin foil to block outside electrical signals, I guess

>Also going back to the C64, are the composite cables possibly designed in a way that they would be different if they were intended for PAL, but being used on a NTSC unit?
Yeah, besides the whole 50/60hz thing, NTSC and PAL are different standards for encoding color video. This is also why it can still be possible to get a B&W image, since they're both backwards compatible from oldschool B&W video signals. AFAIK there's no easy way to change a video encoder to do PAL instead of NTSC or vice-versa.

[Anonymous No.8338484]

What model is this CRT? The guy is selling this with a printer and 2 old PCs for ~$55.

[Anonymous No.8338497]

>>8317283

[Anonymous No.8338589]

>>8338243
It might be the wrong cable, different C64 revisions used slightly different cables. In particular there are cables for standard composite as well as Chroma/Luma (S-Video), both using standard RCA jacks. They were designed for the original monitors like pic related. Your cable is most likely s-video and you're only hooking up the Chroma output which will have no color data.
I'm pretty sure if you hook up the Chroma and Luma to a y-splitter and plug that into a composite port you should get normal composite video.

[Anonymous No.8338591]

>>8338589
whoops I got that backwards, Luma is monochrome and Chroma is the color data

[Anonymous No.8338765]

>>8338484
did a quick google search and from the front controls it looks like a Dell E771P.

[Anonymous No.8338987]

any of these worth buying? redirected from /g/ >>84348686
most likely to be used with a dreamcast running netbsd

[Anonymous No.8338991]

>>8338987
meant >>>/g/>>84348686

[Anonymous No.8338995]

>>8338987
meant >>>/g/84348686

[Anonymous No.8339013]

>>8317137
>no game in the SFC

[Anonymous No.8339175]

if you don't know what models are good or not just pick some out and try them. You will learn a lot and you can just as easily give it away later

[Anonymous No.8339296]

>>8326952
I have the same issue as you and only with PS2. What you can do is use GSM to attempt to either stretch or center the image better.

[Anonymous No.8339395]

>>8339013
that's a mini console. No idea how it's hooked up to the CRT though. Probably a downscaler I guess.

[Anonymous No.8339468]

Possibly a stupid question, but is VGA to composite/component worth using? I have a large CRT monitor that I used with a VGA box a decade or so ago, but it was always dark and hard to make stuff out. I would love a CRT TV but I'm a bit strapped for cash, so would a converter be any good in general?

[Anonymous No.8339514]

>>8339468
Any converter that downscales the image will always destroy your image quality and make 240p impossible. You need to find something that will send out the same resolution it receives. For VGA to composite I think there are some converters that arcade dudes use, and for VGA to component there are plenty of options on Amazon if you read the fine print carefully. The harder part is getting your video drivers to output 240p

[Anonymous No.8339549]

>>8339514
>The harder part is getting your video drivers to output 240p
So it's not plug and play? The VGA box I had was simple, so I'm a bit in the dark.

[Anonymous No.8339554]

>>8339549
What do you mean VGA box, as in HDMI to VGA? Yes, those are plug and play, but connecting a computer to a standard def tv is difficult because it was never intended to work.
If you're still confused about something it might be helpful to explain your setup

[Anonymous No.8339578]

>>8339554
Nah, this thing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCLLUW/ Just plugged the monitor and PS2 into it and it made the magic happen, admittedly darkly.

[Anonymous No.8339590]

>>8339578
oh you mean composite TO vga? As in you don't have a tv, but a monitor? That will be a lot easier

[Anonymous No.8339605]

>>8339590
Yeah, sorry about not making myself very clear. I just want to hook up 6th gen and later consoles on the monitor.

[Anonymous No.8339631]

>>8339605
What's your monitor, and which consoles? Most things 6th gen and up can do at least 480p, and the PS2 can be forced to output 480p with modding. They also mostly do rgb already

[Anonymous No.8339652]

>>8338987
That Sony on the stand is a 27fv300 if that reddit thread is accurate, so if you want a Wega, that's one of the best.

[Anonymous No.8339656]

>>8339631
An envision EN-s1770, and GC and/or Wii/N64/SNES/PS2. I used my PS2 with it quite a bit in the past, so it should be doable I imagine.

[Anonymous No.8339660]

>>8338765
Thanks!

[Anonymous No.8339749]

test

[Anonymous No.8339814]

>>8337025
>>8337191
>>8337245
Thanks a lot, I'm looking into it.

[Anonymous No.8339829]

>>8338987
Can't beat free for that TV on the far right. Just looking at it, it's probably a late enough model it should at least have composite AV inputs.

[Anonymous No.8339854]

>>8339656
some of those consoles are quite different, so a one-size-fits-all solution would be a little expensive (i.e. an OSSC or something). The wii and ps2 (with modding) would hook up easily with an rgb/component to vga converter, but the others would need upscaling. Upscaling is pretty easy for 480i signals, but for the snes with 240p you need something that doesn't turn it into a blocky mess (something that preserves scanlines)

[Anonymous No.8340006]

>>8319659
a pantyhose over the lamp

[Anonymous No.8340010]

>>8330710
i have a widescreen 480p 1080i panasonic tau crt. It looks fantastic for gamecube and xbox games that support 480p, ps2 looks good too for the most part even though most of its games are 480i. Old consoles that do 280p and 480i suffer a bit but no where near as much as a lcd screen. I use a ps4 and switch on it but those consoles have some overscan issues where parts of the screen get cut off. It can be corrected a bit with the service menu but its not perfect. The switch also has bad sound issues on it for some reason. My favorite thing to do on it though is hook up a steam link and stream my pc, I can scale the image that way so theres no overscan issues and I can play games on the switch emulator instead of the switch.

All in all I think HD crts are great, but you will need a lot of room and some help to move it around. You will also need a very sturdy tv stand.

[Anonymous No.8340019]

>>8319659
The trick is you get an old and unloved CRT projector

[Nana No.8340049]

This is a really old pic but it shows my crt.

[Nana No.8340056]

Newer pic of what consoles I currently own.

[Anonymous No.8340067]

>>8334291
The only acceptable type of HD TV is multi-sync where all resolutions have zero lag. Digital scaling on CRT is blasphemy on the same level as putting pig shit on a Quran, such devices must be destroyed.

[Anonymous No.8340093]

>>8340019
Pretty nice, but I would be worried about cooking the phosphors. With 240p half the phosphors are doing all the work, so to achieve some brightness level they are being driven twice as hard.

[Anonymous No.8340103]

>>8340067
why

[Anonymous No.8340157]

Picked up this little beauty from a charity shop. A mid 2000s Samsung flat screen. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.8340219]

>>8340157
The infamous sonic 2 level 1 screenshot

[Anonymous No.8340270]

>>8340219
>level 1
Eh?

[Anonymous No.8340292]

>>8340049
>leaving controllers on the consoles
WHY
why is this so fucking common in all these pics. Put your fucking controllers away. Put them in a drawer. Why do they need to be there. It looks retarded and you're not using them. Put shit away when its not in use.

[Anonymous No.8340318]

Might buy a NeoGeo CD.

[Anonymous No.8340390]

>>8339656
retrotink or a modded gbs 8200

[Anonymous No.8340474]

>>8340318
Where'd you get the shelves. Assuming they're seperate from the desk.

[Anonymous No.8340548]

>>8340474
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECI3J6S

[Anonymous No.8340567]

>>8340292
Faster to plug in, ya spastic.

[Anonymous No.8341075]

>>8340093
Most projectors would be capable of scanning waaaaaay higher than 15kHz... but i digress. Just tweak the V-pos knob a fraction every time you turn it on.

[Anonymous No.8342356]

alright bros, I've taken the CRT pill and using my parents' mid-2000s trinitron with component input. Picture is bright and sharp and I know the TV was kept in good condition and wasn't used for thousands of hours.

Only slight problem is that there's a "ripple" on the screen at all times, most noticeable on black screens. There are faint diagonal lines scrolling vertically. It happens without even having anything plugged in, and happens on all inputs (but with different spacing of the lines), so it's not because of interference with any video signals or anything like that. I'd take a picture if I could but I can't really pick it up with my camera.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing it? Something wrong with the power supply?

[Anonymous No.8342391]

>>8340567
Having controllers out for 8 different consoles is spastic you fucking spastic. Only adhd zoomers need to have all of their consoles immediately playable within 5 seconds.

[Anonymous No.8342408]

>>8340292
No

[Anonymous No.8342418]

>>8342356
These are called flyback lines or retrace lines. It indicates a failing component but it could be a few different things. If you don't know what you're doing it's a professional repair job but should be something simple to replace. If the tube isn't that worn then it's likely the vertical blanking circuit failing, which means either just a voltage calibration or a capacitor replacement. As I said, easy fixes if you know your way around inside, but if you're not comfortable then it's a professional repair job. Probably worth it, though, if everything else is in good order.
If it's not too noticeable then you could just turn the brightness down until the lines go away.

[Anonymous No.8342449]

>>8342418
Awesome, thank you. Always sucks when you have an issue and don't even know the name of the problem when you're trying to look things up. I've never worked on the inside of a CRT but I'm decently competent at soldering if need be. Just need to be safe is all. Although I'd hate to do a shotgun approach recapping.

I guess the first step after opening the back and just looking to see any obvious signs of bad caps would be to tweak the voltage. That's just done with the "screen" pot on the flyback, right? Are any tools needed for this or is it okay to just fiddle with the knob and decrease the voltage until the lines stop being visible?

[Anonymous No.8342462]

>>8342449
If I were you I'd look up one handed approaches and general safety around the flyback first. People use the term "shock" but its more likely you will get a burn.

[Anonymous No.8342473]

>>8342462
will do, thanks. But just to make sure, do I need a voltmeter for this to be precise or is it okay to just go by look/feel? I should be turning it down so I don't *think* there's any risk of me damaging anything but I just want to make sure.

[Anonymous No.8342487]

>>8342449
It should just be a pot so yeah, adjust it and see what happens. Flyback lines can occur if the voltage is too high or too low so check both ways. Make a mark of the current position in case you make it worse. Most important, if you aren't sure, get someone who is. Unless you're prepared to turn the TV off, wait for the charge to dissipate, turn the pot slightly, turn back on and check, then repeat (and you are not, that would take forever), you're going to be dealing with the nasty type of electricity. You could get shocked, burned, and you're generally going to have a bad time. I would strongly suggest getting help.
Thinking about it, if it's been in storage a while it's more likely a cap going so it would be prudent to check the caps even if adjusting the pots worked.
Seriously, this is a job for a professional. No slight on your skills but these are not like modern electronics. CRTs can kill (in theory, don't touch the anode), it's not a DIY project you can jump into.

[Anonymous No.8342491]

>>8342473
Look and feel is fine, but see above.

[Anonymous No.8342507]

>>8342487
>>8342491
Shouldn't be a problem. I've done focus adjustments in the past so I'm not too concerned about working around the flyback. Unfortunately I don't have an ESR meter though so I won't be able to check caps except just a visual inspection to see if anything is obviously busted.
Thanks for your help.

[Anonymous No.8342537]

>>8342507
If you don't have an ESR meter and the caps look ok I'd still be suspicious. But you sound like you know what you're doing so good luck and if you get it working make sure to take some pictures.

[Anonymous No.8342548]

>>8342537
oh yeah, I agree completely. Caps looking visibly okay doesn't mean they're not failing. It's just that I don't have the tools to verify so I'd have to do a shotgun approach total recap. Which I honestly just don't want to do.
And also the rippling lines are very faint, nowhere near as bad as the pictures I'm seeing online. So I'm thinking I don't need to go that far just yet.

[Anonymous No.8342561]

>>8342548
There's always the ghetto fix of turning the brightness down. If that fixes it and doesn't Derek Chauvin it too much then just forget about it.

[Anonymous No.8342723]

Well, I did the screen voltage adjustment and that wasn't it. Kept lowering the voltage until the screen completely went blank from not enough power, but no change in the rippling lines. I also tried increasing the voltage, and saw ACTUAL retrace lines, so it turns out the ripples I'm seeing aren't that at all.

I wish I could show a better picture, but between the 60hz flicker of the TV and the moire pattern, it's really hard to even show the ripples when they're so light. If you squint really closely at pic-related you can see soft lines that go from top-left to bottom-right at about a ~30 degree decline. Trying to get a short video of the ripples moving upwards also just results in a 60hz flickering seizurefest so that wouldn't work.

[Anonymous No.8342735]

>>8342561
tried that and the problem is it's most apparent on dark grays, the darker the gray (without being black) the more noticeable it is. You can probably see the lines best here. Again, ignore the moire pattern and the obvious band in the middle, it's the soft lines going from top-left to bottom-right.

And also after carefully taking off the back of the TV, I noticed a buzzing coming from the neck of the tube. It's not a 15khz whine AFAIK, I can hear that too like any other normal tube TV. Almost sounds like what you'd hear from audio interference from shitty cables, but it's not coming from the speakers and happens without anything plugged in, but also changes depending on what might be displayed. Very weird, not sure if it's related.

[Anonymous No.8342804]

>>8342735
I can see what you mean. Not sure if it's just the photo but that looks more like a band than a line, which is weird. You absolutely sure there's nothing around that could be causing interference? Because if its not that I'm stumped, sorry.

[Anonymous No.8342831]

>>8342804
No prob, I appreciate the help regardless. I guess there's always the possibility of it being an issue with the wall socket. It's still at my parents' house and they have it in a room along with their washer/dryer, meaning there's a 240v line there. I'm no electrician but maybe that could be causing an issue?

Guess when I'm able to move it I'll be able to see if that's the thing causing the problem.

[Anonymous No.8342920]

>>8342831
I'm British so our wiring is somewhat... idiosyncratic (hello ring mains) but it could be a ground loop. Once had a problem that caused an Amiga to trip the circuit breakers if it was hooked up to an upstairs telly and when hooked to a CRT produced a pattern that sort of maybe a bit perhaps a bit looked like your thing until the trip switch blew (more like bad vertical hold though, not really so much of an angle to it). Turns out it was an earth loop caused by some shoddy seventies wiring linked by a satellite dish to the downstairs circuit (yes, really weird, took ages to figure it out and the cheap repair option was two satellite dishes not electrically connected).
Anyway, if you've got two different circuits with two different grounds in an older house that are linked somewhere then that might explain it, but being at such diagonal would be unusual for such a problem. My knowledge of American wiring begins and ends at YouTube videos though, so maybe just ignore my blog post
There's still the caps, mind. Anywhere you could borrow an ESR meter?

[Anonymous No.8342976]

>>8342920
I'm thinking that very well may be it. They had an addition put in many years ago, and the CRT is right at the intersection of the old/new parts of the house.
Poking around in the back I didn't see any obviously bad caps, but its also really hard to see anything at all without disassembling everything and sliding it all out. Not willing to do that just yet. Hopefully it is just a weird ground loop and moving the TV solves the issue. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.8343016]

>>8342391
Friend, you chose to wrong hobby to have such debilitating OCD in.

[Anonymous No.8343042]

>>8342976
Best of luck. Hopefully you can isolate the problem at a neighbour? I don't know if it's a blessing or a curse to have an earth loop, but I guess it's better than a fault if that's what it is. You may have luck just running a really long extension lead from somewhere else in the house. Keep us posted if you figure it out, this is quite an interesting problem!

[Nana !!moh/LyYoGIQ No.8343342]

>>8340318
Dude that's a really cool setup I like your gunpla.

[Anonymous No.8343442]

>>8343342
Hi there!

You seem to have made a bit of a mistake in your post. Luckily, the users of 4chan are always willing to help you clear this problem right up! You appear to have used a tripcode when posting, but your identity has nothing at all to do with the conversation! Whoops! You should always remember to stop using your tripcode when the thread it was used for is gone, unless another one is started! Posting with a tripcode when it isn't necessary is poor form. You should always try to post anonymously, unless your identity is absolutely vital to the post that you're making!

Now, there's no need to thank me - I'm just doing my bait to help you get used to the anonymous image-board culture!

[Nana !!moh/LyYoGIQ No.8343485]

>>8343442
oh thank you, my mistake :)

[Anonymous No.8343492]

>>8343342
shut the fuck up faggot

[Nana !!moh/LyYoGIQ No.8343509]

>>8343492
mean :(

[Anonymous No.8343607]

>>8317425
Make sure you got that thing running at 75hz+. 60hz has a noticable flicker for me

[Anonymous No.8343664]

>>8343342
Thanks, I appreciate the compliment!
Don't worry about all the bullies. I love you very much.

[Anonymous No.8344081]

I finally took the CRT pill. It's been over 15 years since I last played in one. It feels like magic.

[Anonymous No.8344097]

>>8344081
yep, first thing I noticed upon digging out my old CRT was the motion clarity. I can't describe how good simple side-scrollers like sonic and mario look on a CRT. I had gotten so used to just seeing these things on an LCD that I forgot that we used to have displays that didn't turn into blurry smudges

[Anonymous No.8344162]

>>8343342
filtered :^)

[Anonymous No.8344920]

retarded question that probably gets asked alot but how do I connect my PC to an RGB CRT TV?

[Anonymous No.8344960]

>>8344920
Assuming the TV is only standard def, you'll either need
>AMD card capable of analogue output
>CRT_emudriver if on windows (for linux you can just use the including drivers)
>a cable to go from the video card to your CRT (ie, VGA on one end, SCART or BNC breakout cables on the other depending on the CRT)
...or if your card can only digital OR it's a jewvidia card, AFAIK you'll need to use a digital-to-analogue converter/downscaler, but I don't know much about those options.

[Anonymous No.8345518]

>>8344920
>guide
>>8337191

[Anonymous No.8345530]

god its perfect isnt it

[Anonymous No.8345546]

>>8340019
>APE ESCAPE CRT PROJECTED
ABSOLUTELY KINO, i fucking love this

[Anonymous No.8345549]

>>8319463
Help

[Anonymous No.8345563]

>>8345530
>rear projection TV
Quite possibly the worst display for vidya ever made.

[Anonymous No.8345567]

>>8340292
reduces wear on the cable and ports to just leave it plugged in.

[Anonymous No.8345580]

>>8340292
im gonna piss you off even more you turbo autist: i bought third party controller extensions so i can keep the extensions plugged in and the controllers out either at the side of the console or stored away. Makes it so i dont wear out the ports on the console and convenience.

[Anonymous No.8345614]

sort of related because i want to use it for watching some shit on my CRT
does anyone know if "Cyberhome" is a good brand for DVD players? I was looking for a DVD player and ive already gone through some modern sony player that cost like $25 and work as good as you expect cheap chink shit to perform, then got an old phillips off ebay that arrived with a broken disc drive. all plastic components inside, nothing uncommon though.
my mother told me she had some old DVD player that cost her a fortune ($300 or so) back then but it too had a broken disc drive. but the internals also just looked so much more premium. other than the unit being nearly empty with the disc drive in the middle, a pcb to the right and a lot of empty space to the left of it. the drive unit itself has in another metal housing and took me like 16 screws until i got it merely removed from the main unit.
to cut it a little short, the thing seemed like it was actually high quality but i never heard about this brand and looking online people share the same sentiment. some weird unknown brand they dont know to trust or not.
unlike oppo dvd players they go for pretty cheap on ebay so im thinking of trying my luck on my fourth dvd player hoping it doesnt arrive broken yet again. anyone know about this brand? able to tell me if its actually any good or not?

[Anonymous No.8345662]

>>8345614
Cheap and cheerful. IIRC they were part of the first wave of cheap DVD players that appeared in the early 2000s. Crap electronics inside but decent cases (likely modified VCR cases that were being sold off for next to nothing as VCR sales tanked). Considering the age it almost certainly has the chroma bug. You'd be better off with a (working) modern cheap player, or an old console.

[Anonymous No.8345670]

>>8345614
find an old Pioneer player

[Anonymous No.8345694]

>>8345670
Pioneer players had the chroma bug until around 2005/2006

[Anonymous No.8345702]

>>8345694
save your memes for your mother, autist

[Anonymous No.8345716]

>>8345670
pioneer seems nice. i found a guy selling like six Pioneer DVD-V7300D. seems like left over units from some production company or something. says its professional equipment and it definitely doesnt look like consumer electronics.
>>8345694
didnt know about chroma bug before but appaarently it can only occur on progressive displays and mine only does 480i so i should be good.

[Anonymous No.8345743]

>>8315940
RGB is literally better you stupid autistic Americans. It literally is the uncompressed color space. Component is basically a compressed version of it.

Analog sucks anyways.
Digital RGB 4:4:4 is best and in 10 years everyone will mod their retro game consoles for HDMI and play them in 12K MicroLED Displays with Shaders.

[Anonymous No.8345749]

>>8345743
it's not a compressed version of rgb, it's a different color space

[Anonymous No.8345757]

>>8315940
>Bla bla bla you can't just let your dials the same for Component and RGB you have to do dial them individually
This guy is a fucking mouthbreather who has no idea what he's talking about

[Anonymous No.8345780]

>get old rca crt tv for free from someone who was going to throw it away
>test it and it works perfectly
>but it only has a composite input
>decide I'm going to recap and rgb mod it
>didn't happen to notice that a few of the components on the board didn't have their leads trimmed at all
>accidentally bend one of these leads while recapping and testing
>short out the whole set
>find short, trim leads, replace fuse
>fuse unfortunately didn't save it, it doesn't work now
>check every single capacitor I replaced, they're all oriented exactly the same as the originals
>try for a while to find the problem, narrow it down to either being a bad diode I found, or the jungle chip is fried, or both
>put the whole thing in a corner for a few months while waiting for the correct high voltage diode to arrive
>finally replace the diode today
>still doesn't work
Fuck. It's a 29" CR23 tube too. Should I try one of those shitty chinese mainboard replacements or just throw the thing away? I only have like $50 invested in it so far.

[Anonymous No.8345793]

>>8345749
It's essentially that way for games.
Games are made on Computer Screens which use RGB color space.

[Anonymous No.8345807]

>>8345743
autism. They're indistinguishable unless you're rainman.

[Anonymous No.8345867]

>>8345743
Component isn't compressed, it's just formatted differently to maintain backwards compatibility with black and white displays. One line carries luma, the other two carry chroma.
This picture visualizes how the color info is encoded (ignore that it's labelled Cb and Cr, YCbCr is the digital counterpart of YPbPr).
Rather than having three lines that each carry red green and blue, you have two lines that carry values that correspond to a color on the graph. This graph is representative of all possible values at 50% luma, at 0% luma it would just be a black square, at 100% it would just be a white square.

Get over yourself.

[Anonymous No.8345905]

>>8330395
Composite is more useful for PSX than for Genesis since PSX relied on it to turn 15 bit color to 24 bit color.
Genesis mostly used it for some effects such as transparencies but it had terrible output quality.

[Anonymous No.8345915]

>>8332480
>And dude, "line doubling" doesn't just mean literally only doubling it to 480p lmao. Modern scalers like the RT5X and later the OSSCPro can scale images straight to 720p or even 540p/1080i
That's even worse.

>>8334761
>>8334784
You dumb fucks. What he means is he wants a more blurry consumer TV look where the blank lines aren't noticeable.
Composite isn't responsible for that, that's just a function of a coarse dot pitch and Low TVL.

[Anonymous No.8345919]

>>8336568
Looks terrible

[Anonymous No.8345961]

>>8345867
It's objectively worse for games because games are made in sRGB color space.

[Anonymous No.8346020]

>>8345961
Both color spaces are so capable that you aren't going to lose enough fidelity to notice. I would prefer that everything just use RGB, but if a game console already outputs is YPbPr I'm not going to bother modding it to output RGB to make it look less than 1% more accurate.

[Anonymous No.8346024]

>>8345961
Both color spaces are so capable that you aren't going to lose enough fidelity to notice. I would prefer that everything just use RGB, but if a game console already outputs YPbPr I'm not going to bother modding it to output RGB to make it look less than 1% more accurate.

[Anonymous No.8346094]

>>8345530
>perfect for overactive children
>my son is autistic and he loved it for years
Rear projection confirmed "Autist's Choice"

[Anonymous No.8346167]

>>8315940
>>8315943
>>8315953
>>8316040
YPbPr ("component") => RGBHV = RGBS => RsGB = RGsB = RGBs => Y/C (S-Video) ===> Composite =======> RGBSOnComposite (literally a scam lol)

>>8316612
YPrPb is also the successor of Y/C aka S-Video
they're both based on LUMA/Y separation.

>>8345743
>RGB is literally better you stupid autistic Americans.
RGB is not bad, it's ALMOST perfect, but YPrPb is better because it refines the image quality based on RGB with separation of brightness.

basically it's RGB perfected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dET-EoIMM8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjN_vCDi6_I

Pic unrelated...

[Anonymous No.8346172]

>>8345563
It's what I grew up on so it's objectively the most soulful.

[Anonymous No.8346251]

>>8345743
>RGB 4:4:4
isn't this notation not for RGB?

[Anonymous No.8346470]

>>8340049
Looks great. Whats the model?

[Anonymous No.8346621]

>>8346167
>RGB is not bad, it's ALMOST perfect, but YPrPb is better because it refines the image quality based on RGB with separation of brightness.
You are retarded. YPrPb that is extracted from RGB cant's be better than RGB.

[Anonymous No.8346625]

>>8346167
>RGB is not bad, it's ALMOST perfect, but YPrPb is better because it refines the image quality based on RGB with separation of brightness.
You are retarded. YPrPb that is extracted from RGB can't be better than RGB, only worse. /vr/ games can't produce pure YPrPb so that is a moot point.

[Anonymous No.8346930]

>>8340318
Not a very functional setup. Having consoles above the TV/monitor for /vr/ stuff sucks because then the controller cords are hanging in front of the screen when you're playing.

[Anonymous No.8346934]

>>8346024
There still is a difference so claiming they're the same is inaccurate.

[Anonymous No.8346936]

>>8346930
Nah I wrap them behind the legs of the shelf.

[Anonymous No.8346939]

>>8346936
I guess, but then you're limited. Works decently enough if you're okay with your controller never being more than 12 inches from the screen.

Corded controllers are definitely a really annoying limitation for couch setups though. So much wasted space above the TV but I can't use it for the consoles because of the wires.

[Anonymous No.8346942]

>>8346167
If we're going to go that autistic then shit like CIELab mogs them all.

>YPrPb is better because it refines the image quality based on RGB with separation of brightness.
Not for games it isn't.
It's useless for games since games are made in sRGB.
YPrPb is a movie(DVD/Bluray) thing not a video game thing.

[Anonymous No.8347020]

>>8338310
This, dude be finding unicorns

[Anonymous No.8347128]

>>8346934
So? What's your point?
While the color spaces are technically different, they are both capable of displaying a very similar range of colors. The only place you could really lose quality is in the process of converting from one to the other, but a lot of consoles output a good YPbPr signal. Even the Wii, which is known for having a theoretically substandard component output, is very difficult to tell apart from something with a known good output, like a DOL-001 Gamecube, even when both are compared side by side.

[Anonymous No.8347174]

Anyone familiar with SCART switchers?
Why does this chink one needs additional power as mentioned by Fritz here?

[Anonymous No.8347228]

>>8347174
It's an auto-switcher. They work by detecting the voltage line from the SCART cable and switches to it.
Personally I find the idea of auto-switchers to be needlessly complex. Like, for all my old games I need to go to the entertainment stand to physically turn on the console and grab a controller anyway, it is REALLY that big of a deal to press a button for the right input?

That and I DIY'd all my cables without any voltage lines connected because it just seems pointless for this specific purpose. So even if I personally used an auto-switcher it wouldn't detect any of my shit.

[Anonymous No.8347248]

>>8347228
To clarify I currently use two separate switchers one for component video (a VGA switcher) and one for sound/composite. I would like to reduce this mess by using scart cables.
Thing is I really need at least 10 inputs and also it would be neat to be able to stash it away behind the screen.
But I guess you are right.

[Anonymous No.8347270]

>>8347248
I know what you mean, I used to have a mess of various switchers for component/composite/audio/etc and then a bundle of labeled scart heads by the front of the monitor to physically plug/unplug them. I ended up getting an extron crosspoint which completely solved all those problems for me, although that might be a bit overkill if you just need component/composite switching. Plus there are other considerations for that like the stupid phoenix connectors for sound, needing BNC adapters for everything, and needing to attenuate the sync signal if you're sending RGBS to a consumer TV

As for the auto-switchers, I believe ones like the gscart instead work by detecting a sync signal, rather than the voltage line. I'm not sure if they function properly if you're carrying s-video or composite over a scart cable though. That and they're very expensive.

[Anonymous No.8347271]

>>8346936
is that a TXP1430?

[Anonymous No.8347276]

>>8347270
>extron crosspoint
that looks nice
too bad I don't have a space for such a beast

thanks anon

[Anonymous No.8347284]

I'm starting to be convinced that "480i is bad" is a total meme. I just played through Megaman on my PS2, and it sure as hell looked better than an NES, thanks to the crystal clear PS2 image and proper colors.
I played MGS on PS3 on a CRT earlier this year, due to my PS2 starting to freak out playing the disc, and it looked great, too.
Who cares if there's no scanlines? Those aren't actually part of the image...

[Anonymous No.8347309]

>>8347284
480i is fine if that's the native resolution. I just don't like 240p displayed as 480i

[Anonymous No.8347359]

>>8347284
480i with component cables on 6th and 7th gen consoles is pretty good. That said, I would be shocked if Megaman at 480i looks better than at 240p. Basically, stick to whatever the intended output resolution is

[Anonymous No.8347791]

>>8347271
That's right.

[Anonymous No.8347802]

>>8345757
>>8345743
>Coping over a comparison where neither one wins out
RGBfags are a lost cause.

[Anonymous No.8347948]

Finally managed to get to the CRT that use to belong to my Aunt that my folks have in storage, and it has a single RF plug in back. Nothing else. Guess I'm going to hunt for VGA to composite/component cables now. Fuck.

[Anonymous No.8348026]

>>8347948
Embrace the soul

[Anonymous No.8348030]

>>8347948
>Guess I'm going to hunt for VGA to composite/component cables now
Why?

[Anonymous No.8348037]

>>8347284
>480i is bad
I have never ever seen anyone say this

[Anonymous No.8348053]

>>8348026
Well, I can not do much with a single RF jack sadly.
>>8348030
Only other CRT I have is a monitor that is VGA only.

[Anonymous No.8348172]

>>8348053
Just emulate. It's way better than spending hundreds on upscalers and cables

[Anonymous No.8348175]

>>8348053
>Well, I can not do much with a single RF jack sadly
Yes you can, you can play literally any game my nigger

[Anonymous No.8348205]

>>8348175
I can? I will admit I'm not the most informed, but I thought RF support stopped with fourth or fifth gen. The only console I own with a RF cable is my SNES, but if I can hook up a PS2 and N64 via RF there still may be hope, provided it's playable video quality.

[Anonymous No.8348227]

>>8348205
Both the N64 and PS2 had official RF adaptors. I only had the RF adaptor for the N64 and it was fine. It's not like the image it produces is that sharp anyway.

[Anonymous No.8348871]

i have a dell that has svideo
found an old crt and plugged it
image is really good, mates
but theres in one problem
It doesnt fit the screen properly
Is that a problem with the tv?
Video is fine, but component is a tiny bit offcenter with some blackbars
I think my computer isnt recognizing it fully
I'm on gnu/linux
Any help?

[Anonymous No.8348876]

>>8348871
change your display borders with xrandr

[Anonymous No.8348895]

>>8348876
it kinda curved, i was searching and found about underscan
that exatly it
Do you think it might be a software problem or a hardware problem?

[Anonymous No.8349325]

>crt goes a deep purple, then green when it turns on
>about 10 mins later it's fixed
This was the best I could do to remove the green tint after turning the green drive all the way down. Should I return the thing?

[Anonymous No.8349432]

morning corn

[Anonymous No.8349752]

>>8345915
..."worse" how? It'll objectively be closer to the HDCRT's native resolution and have less lag, how's it worse?
Also if composite isn't the solution, then what would be? Getting a horribly degraded TV, adding a light blurring filter to the video signal manually with a scaler to help the CRT's screen sell the effect, or what?

[Anonymous No.8349996]

>>8349325
>crt goes a deep purple
Smoke in the casing
And fire in the house

[Anonymous No.8350560]

>>8349996
EXPLAIN

[Anonymous No.8350563]

>>8350560
kys zoomer

[Anonymous No.8350568]

>>8350563
>comes into thread
>posts schizo ramblings
>refuses to elaborate
>tells you to kill yourself
The average /vr/ user, ladies and gentlemen.

[Anonymous No.8350623]

wouldn't mind being a bit of a regular in this thread, have probably all my end game CRTs and been on the boat since 2013 just have to do some maintence and honestly i haven't got a solution in terms of actual source (i.e hacked wii)

sorry to say that I'm in australia and remember juicy 14 inch PVMs on the bay for <$100 barely moving, 2013 exchange rate is an almost as painful memory

honestly there's probably still a bit of a chance of picking up something workable, not broadcast tier but my ex found a decent little trinitron in hard waste last year, I would say there's probably more of a shot if you're not in a major city

[Anonymous No.8350636]

>>8347359
If it was 240p on the PS2 it would probably look slightly better. Video quality from an NES is garbage though.

[Anonymous No.8351207]

>>8350568
Not that Anon but it's modified song lyrics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUwEIt9ez7M

[Anonymous No.8351294]

picked up this bad boy today for 40 bucks

[Anonymous No.8351439]

>>8350560
>>8350568
ZOOM'S'T'D'VE

[Anonymous No.8351441]

>>8350623
what if you live on bogan's alley?

[Anonymous No.8351498]

>>8351294
God I wish I had a PS2 and a copy of silent hill 2. I miss that game.

[Anonymous No.8351573]

>>8350623
>2013 exchange is a painful memory
What do you mean

[Anonymous No.8351583]

>>8351573
last time AUD was 1:1 with USD

[Anonymous No.8351584]

is it worth buying a literally who brand CRT PC monitor?

[Anonymous No.8351589]

Is this a bad cap crt bros? For context, it's a slight wave on the left side of the screen. No the brightness is not up too high. 800 TVL monitor. I increased exposure to help you see it better. It's hard to see on camera. Best way I can describe it is that it's a visible vertical line that gets wavy.

[Anonymous No.8351590]

I'm going to be moving to Japan soon, and I'll have to leave my CRT monitors here for obvious reasons. I'll especially miss my PC CRTs. Does anyone know what the CRT market in Japan is like? Should I consider trying to find a way to ship one of them over to me, or will it be possible to find something nice over there?

[Anonymous No.8351731]

>>8346934
RGB might be worse for the consumer market due to sync issues that come with rgb video especially carried by scart.

[Anonymous No.8351795]

What's wrong with my Wega? should I throw the thing out? This red backbleed is only present on the component input, it's not present in S-video or composite, so it's not screen burn in.

[Anonymous No.8351884]

>>8351795
take out the cables one at a time, it might actually be just the cable

[Anonymous No.8351893]

>>8351884
It happens with any component cables I use

[Anonymous No.8351895]

>>8351893
and also every console?

[Anonymous No.8351896]

>>8351893
So each of the Y Pb and Pr inputs cause the issue?

[Anonymous No.8351902]

>>8351895
Yes, if the console outputs component

[Anonymous No.8351904]

>>8351896
There’s only one input for YPbPr.

[Anonymous No.8351906]

>>8351904
yeah well there's your issue

[Anonymous No.8351915]

>>8351906
or did you misunderstand what I meant when I said 3 inputs

[Anonymous No.8351925]

>>8351915
Like did I try each input individually to see if any particular one is causing the red bleed? There only one input among YPbPr that takes red.

[Anonymous No.8351937]

I just tried out a Sun Microsystems VGA monitor and it worked for a few minuets, but every couple of moments it would do a quick screen reset and an audible noise, like the kind when you first turn on a monitor. I wanted to see if this would go away as it hasnt been on in a while, so I opened up a game on my pc to let it run its title screen demo for a while and see how it looks. It ran it fine for about 3 minuets, then it started getting dimmer and the image started to get more and more distorted until it finally shut off to a black screen (not like its off) with barely visible horizontal lines across it. It does have a 2nd input method, but I dont have the right adapter to use it. I tried powering down everything and restarting, but now when I turn it on, its just stuck in that state of a black screen with horizontal lines,

Anyone have a clue what the problem might be? Im assuming maybe capacitors blew inside it that need to be replaced and hopefully its nothing worse then that. Im going to test out a different VGA cable and test the graphics board on the computer I was using to a different monitor, just to make sure they arnt the culprits. I'l post a photo later if this description is too vague.

[Anonymous No.8351939]

>>8351937
also should add: when i first turned it on, i was able to use the monitors set-up menu, but now that wont even come up either, so I doubt its the computer itself causing the issue.

[Anonymous No.8352026]

>>8351583
Yeah, aussie here, that's good for us right...I went on an ebay spree during that time buying usa shit...what did you buy back then

[Anonymous No.8352140]

>>8351589
Might be burn-in

[Anonymous No.8352294]

What is Sub Contrast, and is it wrong to have it turned all the way up?

[Anonymous No.8352319]

>>8350568
dumb frogposter

[Anonymous No.8352364]

>>8349325
>not knowing what green an purple means on a CRT
Pls do a quick google search

[Anonymous No.8352470]

>>8352364
ah, it's just giving anon his daily dose

[Anonymous No.8352506]

Any RGB/Component chads?

[Anonymous No.8352674]

Does anyone in this thread currently have/use a DAC for gaming? I was considering purchasing one to use with emulation while I saved for a CPS3 board and the required homemade parts to modify it to my preference.
Do you find it particularly bothersome to get aspects and such correct on it? I bought a pretty awful DAC off of eBay or wherever and it ended up being a nightmare when I tried it. It consistently though it was a 16:9 display, a good 5% of the display on every edge was just completely out of frame, essentially every problem you could reasonably imagine happened, but I assume it was solely because of how bad the product I purchased was.

Any knowledge on the subject would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.8352738]

>>8352140
Burn in doesn't move.

[Anonymous No.8352836]

>>8351498
PS2's are like 60 dollars on marketplace and you can just mod it.

[Anonymous No.8353375]

Castlevania 64 is a GOOD game

[Anonymous No.8353398]

>>8353375
Being different doesn't make you smart, anon

[Anonymous No.8353408]

crisp scart output

[Anonymous No.8353410]

>>8353375
Prove it

[Anonymous No.8353474]

Raising acts.

[Anonymous No.8354054]

absolutely beautiful console tv

[Anonymous No.8354080]

>>8354054
what are you gonna put in the drawer?
also nice fit

[Anonymous No.8354802]

>>8354080
It looks fake to me. these later console TVs were shit compared to the ones from the early 70s and prior

[Anonymous No.8354991]

>>8334761
>>8334784
Expanding on this, I'm curious, what would one do if they wanted to get a composite-like softness/shit quality with an HD console?
Like, hypothetically let's say I wanted to play one of those Genesis Sega Ages games on the Switch, but get the picture softened so the dithering would be effective and such (and then hook it up to any screen, CRT or not). If I were to get a cheap HDMI>Composite converter and then just run it back into a retrotink or something, would the composite cable even be capable of storing the picture information of an HD resolution or wouldn't it just end up being downscaled and losing information?
Is there maybe just a blurring filter on the RT5X (or something else) I could use, that'd get the image blurred just enough to make dithering work but look subtle and unintrusive? I've no bloody clue anymore man.

[Anonymous No.8355096]

>>8354991
Yeah, such a method would downscale to 480i and youd be losing a ton of resolution. It seems like what you need is a filter, similar to scanline filters. On PC there's probably a program or way with the driver to overlay a post-processing effect to give composite-like artefacts. No idea about consoles though. Closest thing i know of are those devices people use that only do scanline overlays and nothing else. So you'd need something like that but with a custom NTSC filter

[Anonymous No.8355157]

>>8315908
What monitor is that even?

[Anonymous No.8355168]

>>8352738
Should’ve said so, retard.

[Anonymous No.8355297]

can someone post some good examples of older games being built with scanlines in mind?

[Anonymous No.8355480]

Should I get a 4:3 20" trinitron wega set? It's cheap, but I only have a ps2 and wii for 240p emulation mostly so not sure if it would be better than the lil 13" PVM setup I have going. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.8355679]

>>8355480
It depends on your viewing angle and distance. I downgraded from a 27" consumer CRT on a TV stand to 13" CRT consumer next to my PC monitor and I actually prefer the smaller setup. Buy the Trinitron and just resell it if you end up preferring your PVM.

[Anonymous No.8355895]

>>8353410
It's got sexy spider ladies

[Anonymous No.8355939]

>>8355895
Ohhh baby

[Anonymous No.8356019]

>>8315908
How can i make my CRT monitor use an interlaced mode on linux? It works on windows, the gpu supports it. I tried manually adding a new modeline in xrandr and added "Interlaced" to the end, but the command returned nothing and no new mode appeared. I want to make my retro games have that look without using filters

[Anonymous No.8356029]

>>8356019
why do you want interlacing?
force it to be 240p instead, auto scanlines

[Anonymous No.8356050]

>>8356029
interlacing will save up bandwidth so i can overclock more than usual on high resolutions. i dont mind the lines and id prefer having a faster refresh rate

[Anonymous No.8356081]

>>8356050
oh misread, so an actual monitor and not composite

[Anonymous No.8356132]

>>8356081
yep a 17 incher, it uses vga

[Anonymous No.8356391]

>>8315918
I'm not OP this time, but purposely change it back to 5thgen/Dreamcast when I make them

[Anonymous No.8356998]

CRTs cost too much money

[Anonymous No.8357036]

>>8355679
Don't get hung up on the PVM look. The only reason not to go bigger would be if the PVM accepts inputs and formats the Wega doesn't, and those inputs are important to you. Also: 480p on consumer TVs normally means digital processing, so make sure it doesn't do any of that modern nonsense.

[Anonymous No.8357042]

>>8356998
What do you define as "too much money"?

[Anonymous No.8357254]

>>8357042
I made that post to test is this thread has been autosaged by a mod. It has. This thread was ended early.

[Anonymous No.8357257]

Imagine a thread that doesn’t bump even though it hasn't hit the post limit. Thats this thread.

[Anonymous No.8357339]

Hi anons I found a sony triton the other day it's one of those hospital models with no rgb is there any way to mod it to have rgb support

[Anonymous No.8357346]

>>8357339
probably. Post a model number, Holmes.