/CRT/ Thread - FOUR MUSASHIS edition

[Anonymous No.5102038]

Previous thread: >>5077814

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+ Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (Never Ever) : http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Guide to CRT Hunting : http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
Guide to Video Monitors : http://pastebin.com/pQX4N6gZ
General Purpose CRT Adjustment Guide : http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/guide_setup_adjust_arcade_monitors_v1.2.0.pdf
S-Video Pasta : http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
BKM-10R Protocol Info : http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J
JVC RGB card cloning guide : https://pastebin.com/EXqMBfcY

/crt/ Discord Server : https://discord.gg/EFWPCYE

Thread Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd1HF1jPaNTZDupCn_GGtFuB3DxW5WFFd3yT4znmLA_cuU5oA/viewform
Collaborative Consumer CRT Project Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd3_OraDPRRN_OzQ4r_-CqoNPR9J0r2KtFrpV6iuXdxM3DDJg/viewform

[Anonymous No.5102053]

What do you guys know about the FV15B series?
I have a Trinitron 34FV15B close to me and I'm very tempted to grab it, I wanted something bigger than 29''. It has 2 S-Video and a Component. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.5102107]

>>5102038

[Anonymous No.5102108]

[Anonymous No.5102116]

This link needs to go into the OP: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/87668-A-guide-to-connecting-your-Windows-PC-to-an-SD-CRT-TV-PVM-or-Arcade-Monitor

Deals with hooking a PC up to a crt television or arcade monitor.

[Anonymous No.5102132]

>>5102038
>majority of retro gamers don't even CRT
it hurts lads
hurts to see people not appreciating the finer things

[Anonymous No.5102142]

Reminder that multisyncs have lower phosphor persistence than pure SD displays, making 480i look really bad. Don't pay the meme prices.

[Anonymous No.5102165]

>>5102108
since you're playing wonder boy, any advice on beating the final boss? What a load of bullshit.

[Anonymous No.5102174]

>>5102165
I didn't realize I even had power ups at first. I accidentally saved them until I realized what they were, continued to play without them, then used them all on the final boss. I don't remember him being challenging when being hit with all power ups.

[Anonymous No.5102185]

>>5102142
>multisyncs
You mean Multiformats?
>have lower phosphor persistence than pure SD displays
No they don't. Most professional sets, be it SD or Multiformat, use exactly the same SMPTE/EBU phosphors (depending on region). Consumer sets, and some low-end pro models such as PVM-N1s, use P22 phosphors.

[Anonymous No.5102190]

>>5102174
By powerups do you mean the magic spells like Quake and Thunder?
I can't beat not!Motherbrain during the second phase because I just get stunlock raped by the moving floors and the buzzsaws.

[Anonymous No.5102209]

>>5102132
1) Professional CRTs are becoming increasingly more expensive and unaffordable for most people because of hoarders and retro fetishists. Even if they have the money or know-how, most people wouldn't want to spend the effort looking for it just to get that edge in fidelity.

2) CRTs are excessively heavy for their size and a lot of them take up too much room. People usually have flatscreen monitors which are a portion of the cost of high-end PVMs and lightweight to boot.

3) You'll generally have to spend a lot on money on niche cables to plug in all your systems, especially if you go the RGB/SCART route.

4) Emulation can already bring you ridiculously close to what the source image looks like in the first place. There's even hardware emulators out nowadays that are designed to interface with modern displays to that same level of quality if you have the cartridges, while modded consoles designed to do that same thing are even more expensive if you're clueless on how to build them.

That being said, I'm going to go out on a limb and predict that a couple of start-up companies will start making professional CRTs within a decade's time once the supply gets low enough.

[Anonymous No.5102238]

>>5102038
>/CRT/ Thread

Why don't we call it a "General"? Just asking because it seems odd the way threads work on this board.

[Anonymous No.5102258]

>>5102209
I don't think CRTs will ever be made again. Or if they do, they'll be insanely expensive because it's such a niche thing that a high margin would be the only way to justify production. Especially since even though CRTs are old, it's still be a very expensive process to produce them from scratch. Especially when the only people buying them would be who? Retro game enthusiasts and fighting game fans?

As for the PVM issue, yeah, they're way too expensive to justify nowadays. A few years back PVMs used to be the cheaper alternative to paying out the ass for a framemeister. But monitor prices have gone through the roof, and there are also now framemeister alternatives in the 100-200 dollar range.

Having said that, good-quality consumer-grade CRTs are still easy as sin to find for free locally. There are any number of WEGAs nearby that I could pick up for either free or maybe 10-15 bucks max. I also own a transcoder, and stuff like the Genesis converted from rgb to ypbpr on a consumer CRT still looks absolutely beautiful. IMO the space issue is only valid if you live in a shoebox apartment.

[Anonymous No.5102286]

>>5102209
I think 20"-24" consumer crt's are the perfect middle ground. Dirt cheap to free and not too heavy or large for the vast majority of people.

[Anonymous No.5102706]

I finally got myself a sony trinitron! I paid a little more than i wanted to, but that's what you gotta do nowadays.
The market for CRT trinitrons is crazy! I got mine for about 80€, which is pretty cheap considering how high PVMs go for..

[Anonymous No.5102724]

>>5102706
inb4 it's 100hz

[Anonymous No.5102731]

>>5102724
I made sure that it wasn't 100Hz. On the back it says 50Hz. I am going to boot up 240p test suite to show the geometry. I didn't have the chance to test it at the sellers place.

[Anonymous No.5102738]

>>5102731
It's very unlikely to be 100hz as it's a black case model. 50Hz on the back just refers to the power it needs, and doesn't indicate whether it runs at 100Hz.

[Anonymous No.5102743]

>>5102738
100hz black sony exist, heck there's even a PVM lookalike that does 100hz

[Anonymous No.5102747]

I've learned to live with my PVMemes crooked geometry and color bleed. I can't get it any better anyway and I feel like the imperfection has a charm of itself.

I'm finally playing games again instead of calibrating!

[Anonymous No.5102748]

>>5102738
Okay.
Here is a picture of the 240p test suite. It is not as good as i have seen online but i guess that's to be expected from sony. Minor inconvenience but hey it's a trinitron.

[Anonymous No.5102750]

but, you're lucky, X1 isn't 100hz

[Anonymous No.5102763]

>>5102743
Aye but I've certainly never seen one. As I said, unlikely.

>>5102748
Oh wow, that's some geometry. Not sure if this model has a service menu. Some other anon should be able to tell you.

[Anonymous No.5102786]

>>5102763
I don't know. isn't it dangerous to touch the service menu?

[Anonymous No.5102793]

>>5102786
Nah, just make sure to note down any numbers before you change them. Looks like maybe 1 or 2 settings would fix that geometry. Thank your lucky stars the convergence seems to be fine.

[Anonymous No.5102794]

>>5102786
As long as you're careful and make sure to write every value that you're adjusting down first

[Anonymous No.5102798]

>>5102793
>>5102794
I don't know about that. I'm sure I can just live with this. It's not too distracting.

[Anonymous No.5102805]

>>5102798
It's literally just a bunch of sliders, with a dedicated geometry menu if it's like the later Trinitrons. You'd have to try pretty hard to actually screw it up.

[Anonymous No.5102824]

>>5102805
I think I will do that some day but for now i think i'm good. I paid 80€ on this so i don't want to fuck it up by accidentally doing something wrong.

[Anonymous No.5102848]

>>5102706
>paying a dime for a consumer CRT
Are things really this bad in yurop? Sure PVM prices are insane but consumer sets are readily being given away for free all the time over here. I can head on CL or similar sites and find a dozen trinitrons of varying sizes, with owner begging someone to take it away.

[Anonymous No.5102850]

>>5102848
sony consumer tvs have been on a steady rise, even here

[Anonymous No.5102916]

>20" CRT arcade monitor
>Just thought I would see if anyone wants it before I take it to the recycling centre
>Collection only
>I will be dumping it on Monday and no, I wont hold it

[Anonymous No.5102947]

>>5102848
If it's any consolation all of our consumer TVs have RGB, so it's worth paying a bit for them.

[Anonymous No.5102952]

>>5102947
True, but then there's all the various issues inherent to shitty PAL conversions and dealing with all that 50/60hz shit and whatnot. You guys got a raw deal overall and native RGB is the consolation.

Sucks to not have native RGB here, but at least it's a simple affair to convert to component and use that instead.

[Anonymous No.5102981]

>>5102824
I understand your concern, but it's actually not a daunting or confusing menu at all, so you'd have to make a deliberate choice to mess stuff up.
As long as you don't save your changes, you can do whatever the hell you want inside the menu and then just power the tv off to reset back to default
But, as everyone has said, just go down the list of options, and jot down the default values so you can go back if you need to

[Anonymous No.5103092]

Recently bought a Montgomery Ward Signature 2000 for $2 at Goodwill. It's a 26" behemoth with wood paneling from 1989. What got me to buy it was that it's probably the oldest consumer set I've seen with an S-Video input. Anyone here have any experience with these?

[Anonymous No.5103107]

Pvm 2950q on Craigslist, listed for $20 because of convergence issues. I tell him I'll take it, and he responds that he's fixed the convergence issues and is raising the price to five-fucking-hundred. If this is one of you fuckers, fuck off

[Anonymous No.5103158]

>>5103092
>Anyone here have any experience with these?
I had a tv made in 1989 when I first moved out in the mid 90s. I picked it up used somewhere...But it had svideo. I never used it because I didn't know better and was thrilled that it had composite in. Hell, I didn't know what it was until years later. I don't know who made it, but it was black, and very wide. It had some big speakers on the sides. Was a 20". My friend still raves about it to this day because of its age and the Svideo. He cannot remember who made it either. I would probably have bought it also just for the cool wood tone. My last pickup was a pristine S-video 2004 console 25", and I am happy as a clam.

Why are clams happy? They don't have console tvs.

[Anonymous No.5103168]

>>5103107
What an utter cunt.

[Anonymous No.5103193]

>>5102038
help
I have my pvm hooked up to my genesis model 2. I used the din pinout to wire up the rgb with composite as my sync signal.
I have 75ohm resistors on my sync out and rgb out for a total of 4 resistors

why does my picture look so washed out?

[Anonymous No.5103198]

>>5103193
this
do I need any special resistors or something?

[Anonymous No.5103203]

Ya'll are focused on screens a lot, but you forget something entirely: SPEAKERS

Some of those CRT's come with crappy ones. Any good suggestions on how to make the feeling the best possible once you get that good TV that you want to last for good?

[Anonymous No.5103209]

>>5103203
either 2.1 computer speakers with adapter cords + switchbox
or
hifi stereo with shielded speakers (best option)

[Anonymous No.5103212]

>>5103193
>>5103198
excuse the moire pattern, it looks really bright irl

[Anonymous No.5103219]

>>5103209
Cheers man

[Anonymous No.5103240]

>>5103193
>>5103198
>>5103212
you also need caps
also don't use sync pin directly, it also needs components

[Anonymous No.5103252]

>>5102190
I honestly don't remember. It was my first and only playthrough, I was off work for a few days so I just played the hell out of it then. I don't remember much about the game, it was probably 2 years ago but I do remember learning about having power ups right before the end (went in blind without manual or anything), so I ended up using basically everything I had.

[Anonymous No.5103256]

>>5103158
Dude that's fucking awesome

[Anonymous No.5103261]

>>5103158
>Why are clams happy?

[Anonymous No.5103271]

>>5103203
get a receiver with pro-logic 2 support. I use a VR-509 with NS-10MMT speakers and some pioneer subwoofer. Games sound 100% better compared to shitty Sony TV speakers.

[Anonymous No.5103291]

>>5103158
purple wii is nice

[Anonymous No.5103293]

>>5103291
are you colorblind or something

[Anonymous No.5103295]

>>5103240
the same as the rgb components? the 220uf caps and the 75ohm resistors?

[Anonymous No.5103297]

>>5103193
>>5103212
more screens. my pvm electrocutes me when I hotswap cables while the system is on. I have to power down the unit, unplug the power cable, and press the power switch to drain the caps.

[Anonymous No.5103298]

>>5103297

[Anonymous No.5103302]

>>5103298

[Anonymous No.5103307]

>>5103293
I like your yellow n64

[Anonymous No.5103328]

>>5102748
>80€

sorry anon, you got screwed

[Anonymous No.5103383]

>>5103295
anything between 10 and 220µF + 470R

[Anonymous No.5103428]

>>5102747
Good lad

[Anonymous No.5103438]

Some mad man, perhaps even myself, in this thread needs to come into possession of an AM-4201R so it can be properly evaluated and documented.

[Anonymous No.5103465]

>>5103438
I haven't seen one in person but I have seen several of the other huge Mitsubishi CRTs in action. I would expect these things

>significant fan noise
>loud shrieking noise on startup
>very audible clicking noise when changing resolution
>remembers screen settings for each different modeline, up to 99 modes remembered
>ALL forms of sync accepted

In terms of image quality it's hard to explain. When you get to glass this size the image takes on this other property you don't see smaller CRTs. It looks more... glassy I guess. Very smooth looking. The glass on this CRT is also sharped like a Megaview that has this not-quite-flat but still flatter than most CRTs.

The big 37" Mitsus I've seen were not "authentic" in the sense of how people usually think CRT televisions and arcade monitors looked. It's far more like a big computer monitor. Extraordinarily sharp and stable image. No blooming whatsoever even at high contrast (unless there's something wrong with the CRT). BLACK black. Especially in a dark room with brightness reduced. Playing classic arcade games like this is something else, I tell you what, with the phosphor trails and all.

The AM-4201R supports up to 1280x1024, although I don't think the screen resolves that resolution. 1024x768 is probably a more realistic choice. In this photo posted on reddit it seems pretty sharp for displaying high res computer graphics (1024x768 being considered "high res").

With the massive size, the fine dot pitch, and 240p modes would combine to make an image that would be rather unique looking. Good? From my perspective absolutely. Old-school or vintage looking? Not in the traditional sense. But these -are- very old monitors. It's not like they just started existing. People (lucky people) could and did play on this stuff back in the day.

According to the manual it will resolve 800x768. That's close to an old PC monitor.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5103479]

>>5103438
>>5103465
Those two in particular are late versions of the 4201r, fuckers support component straight up, no need for fucking with transcoders or any of that bull shit.

Can't comment on the 42'' specifically, but the 37'' can be used semi reasonably at 1152x864; Getting up to 960p and higher and most things just end up getting too soft.

Fine for video up at 1080p though, no problem.

[Anonymous No.5103484]

>>5103479
Which shader is this, good sir?

[Anonymous No.5103489]

>>5103484
Forget what thread you were in?

[Anonymous No.5103490]

>>5103484
the kind with a glass tube

[Anonymous No.5103492]

>>5103465
>reddit
>ipa in a fucking can
yep, that's a yikes.

[Anonymous No.5103504]

>>5103465
>r/crtgaming

[Anonymous No.5103516]

>>5103465
>ALL forms of sync accepted
lolnope

[Anonymous No.5103543]

Anyone ever do an RGB mod to a consumer set?

[Anonymous No.5103550]

>>5103516
According to the manual it takes H+V, C-sync, composite sync, and sync on green.

[Anonymous No.5103553]

>>5103492
>>5103504
grow up

[Anonymous No.5103559]

>>5102706
That's a lot of money, anon. I hope you're joking.

[Anonymous No.5103560]

>>5103543
Yeah, it put me in a hospital. Look up how to discharge electricity in a CRT BEFORE you take it apart. They are not like modern flatscreens.

[Anonymous No.5103563]

>>5103553
go back

[Anonymous No.5103574]

>>5102848
It's a trinitron with an RGB input and it looks like it's mint condition. It's worth the money he paid.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5103578]

>>5103484
tuuube

[Anonymous No.5103583]

>>5103550
I wish I knew more about the phosphor ratings.

[Anonymous No.5103585]

>>5103550
I have the manual (I scanned it, the english part at least), and a 3730, and I can tell you on the BNC it doesn't take tv level sync nor composite or luma as sync.
Only TTL will work.
It does take SoG.
Maybe on the appropriate pins on the DB15.

[Anonymous No.5103596]

>>5103585
right there in the 4201 manual it says composite sync is accepted. as well as low, high, analog, and ttl levels

Whether it will accept composite video sync is a question. I bet not

[Anonymous No.5103601]

>>5103578
>tuuube
Holy shit. I am not the only person to use battle toads start screen to test out a TV.

Yours looks quite a bit more impressive then mine. Hats off to you! Mine is on the zenith posted earlier here:
>>5103158
What kind of set is your photo from?

[Anonymous No.5103603]

>>5103596
don'tbeliveitslies.jpg
3730 has the exact same sync specs but only pure TTL sync with work, tried all combinations coming from a LM1881, with/without 470R, termination set either way. Also none of my consoles native csync worked.

[Anonymous No.5103604]

>>5103603
I'm no expert on these things but my 3717C worked just fine with the normal RGBHV output from my PC.

[Anonymous No.5103606]

>>5103603
I'm no expert on these things but my 3717C worked just fine with the normal RGBHV output from my PC. The AM-3501R was the same.

[Anonymous No.5103607]

>>5103604
>PC
and guess what type of level PC sync is (ツ)

[Anonymous No.5103612]

>>5103607
The AM-3501R also accepted RGB from PS2/3 with no issue. Both sync on green and C-sync.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5103624]

>>5103601
XC-3730C, Megaview 37 Pro

>>5103603
It's taken all my consoles through an lm1881, as well as funky, hacked in CSync from an SNES Jr. The issue is on your end.

It does want clean sync, but aside from that, it could be considerably more picky.

[Anonymous No.5103656]

>>5103624
lm1881 without attenuation works 100% I know.
Direct console csync doesn't (for what I could try at the time).

[Anonymous No.5103659]

>>5103624
What do you think about the overall image on the Megaviews? Do you agree with >>5103465

[Anonymous No.5103694]

>>5103489
Based Cottonposter

[Anonymous No.5103702]

>>5103489
looks like the old ZNES scanline filter

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5103706]

>>5103659
Referring to it as a massive PC monitor is the most accurate way to describe it.

While I wouldn't say that their overall HV regulation is quite as dialed in as PVM/BVMs (or rather, the condition of my own, which is almost certainly in need of recapping) they absolutely have a different look to them than a similarly sized TV. Not sure what they mean by loud shrieking noise. The fans are noticeable, but could likely be fixed rather easily by swapping them out with ones that aren't 25-30 years old. I like the relay sounds personally, and as for the modeline bit; While they do save the adjustments for a number of different modelines, at least for my model, it's considerably less than 99.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6S9JtXQ6zg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6F_GU1sOEA

Just occurred to me that I haven't done a video with the Megaview in it in a while; Suggestions?

[Anonymous No.5103708]

>>5103706
I'm interested to see 1080p/i on it.

[Anonymous No.5103714]

>>5103706
I am sure that Skygunner intro and other things on that thing looked beyond fabulous, but sometimes I'm a little sad that other people don't appreciate it in person.

[Anonymous No.5104078]

>>5103504
Epic meme my good sir. You are le gentleman and a scholar xD Upboated
>>>/v/

[Anonymous No.5104092]

>>5103563
Fuck off retard

[Anonymous No.5104125]

>>5103694

[Anonymous No.5104201]

>>5103295
>gb compo
I think the sync pin actually needs a sync stripping circuit or something, or maybe it was sync on luma. http://retrorgb.com/genesis.html It should work without it, but it's not properly set up by default. I think it honestly depends on the monitor/tv or upscaler you use.

[Anonymous No.5104660]

Can a cap kit improve contrast? I've noticed on certain screens, usually white that dont take up the whole space the right side distorts a little inwards as well.

This toshiba is maxed and is almost perfect. S-video is noticeably brighter.Convergence is real good on here except the top left and right corners which I need to fix.

Also when ordering capacitors would I just order electrolytic? I rather not pull the board out until I have the capacitors and manually look.

For example C105 is just labelled CD. Would I just skip over any ones that are ceramic/plastic film/cd and just do electrolytic? It doesn't state what type of capacitor it is. Service manual is below

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/749087/Toshiba-27a60.html?page=23#manual

[Anonymous No.5104723]

[Anonymous No.5104738]

>>5104723

[Anonymous No.5104825]

A thrift store nearby is selling this Sanyo for about 5 dollars. Is it any good? Should i pick it up or go out and purchase a Sony Trinitron thats 35 minutes out for 30 dollars?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5104831]

>>5103708
Anything in particular?

>>5103714
Having more people see it in person would be neat, yeah.

[Anonymous No.5104842]

>>5104831
This of course

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbtswJzW4b0

from highest quality source pls. Cropping is fine, just want to see how it handles the contrast and color.

Some Star Trek: The Next Generation would also be good since that series in 4:3

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5104854]

>>5104842
TNG would be simple (admittedly not the most fantastic quality) from Prime Video. 2049 might be a bit though.

[Anonymous No.5104881]

Is this very early CRT tv capable of a RGB mod? If so how do i do? Here is the service manual/schematic.
>https://elektrotanya.com/magnavox_cmwc13d6_ctv-dvd.pdf/download.html

[Anonymous No.5104889]

>>5104825
Sanyo is a budget brand. Should probably avoid.

Depends on the model of the Trinitron.

[Anonymous No.5104896]

>>5104889
its the the exact same model as in this photo

[Anonymous No.5104902]

>>5104881
damn thats a sexy pic related

[Anonymous No.5104904]

>>5104854
a ps3 would do BR well

[Anonymous No.5104915]

>>5104881
>very early crt
>has a dvd player

[Anonymous No.5104937]

>>5104881
>>5104915
Typo my bad.

[Anonymous No.5104949]

>>5102706
That's a consumer trinitron, not the PVM trinitron.

[Anonymous No.5104953]

>>5104949
The guy said it's a PVM variant because it has RGB SCART

[Anonymous No.5104954]

>>5104937
diagram 1-9-2

[Anonymous No.5104956]

>>5104953
>The guy said it's a PVM variant
And you believed him without actually researching it yourself

[Anonymous No.5104965]

>>5104825
I actually had that one growing up, flat panel if I remember. I remember it having distortion issues and as far as I could tell there was no service menu options to fix it. Eventually had it thrown out after it got smashed in by some drunk homeless guy breaking into my property.

[Anonymous No.5105005]

So I've come into possession of another Sony HMD-A440. This is definitely going to be the cocktail arcade cabinet monitor. When I decase it I will be sure to post pics.

For my cab I'm thinking I want to have only one set of controls, and a monitor that can rotate. I don't like the look of cabs with two or three sided controls.

So my plan is to mount the monitor into something like this I can pick up and easily turn 90 degrees to go from horizontal to vertical mode. No fancy auto-rotate or wheels or anything like that. How often should a person rotate anyway?

[Anonymous No.5105008]

>>5105005
That's not the pic I wanted to post, but I guess it works anyway.

[Anonymous No.5105019]

>>5104854
It's a good movie, you should just watch it anyway.

[Anonymous No.5105021]

>>5104854
tell you what
I'll get you the blade runner clip
just wait a little while

[Anonymous No.5105041]

>>5104825
For $5 why not? I mean, even if it sucks you can always use it until you get another. You can also post it on craigslist and facebook marketplace with pictures of sonic the hedgehog on it and sell it as "Retro Gaming CRT" for more than $5.

>>5104881
I'm not an expert, but all I see is component on that set. If I'm not mistaken it's not possible to rgb mod this set, though if it's missing component, you could probably add that. Post it on the shmups forum if you want someone more knowledgeable than me to look at it.

[Anonymous No.5105054]

Some one in my town is selling this ikegami security camera monitor. Do you think its worth it? The picture she took is shit so i cant make much out of it

[Anonymous No.5105060]

I'm thinking this needs composite

[Anonymous No.5105067]

>>5105054
How cheap? I got a decent Panasonic security cam monitor for dirt cheap. It didn't have rgb inputs but it did have svideo and 450tvl. Not great but a good burner to fuck around with.

[Anonymous No.5105074]

>>5105067
$20
The problem is, is that i dont know if its any good for this sort of thing being a security camera monitor

[Anonymous No.5105079]

>>5105060

[Anonymous No.5105081]

>>5105074
As long as it isn't black and white it'll be decent. Offer her less and tell her you don't know if you can use it. I bet it has svideo and it might scratch your itch until you can find something better.

[Anonymous No.5105097]

>>5104660
it says on that very page that CD = ceramic disk
you're most likely in over your head, don't worry about the CRT unless it starts getting worse
I personally don't order caps until I get the old ones out so that I can measure the lead spacing and diameter, etc.

[Anonymous No.5105115]

>>5105060
>>5105079
Also, in terms of visuals this game blows everything else out of the water

[Anonymous No.5105156]

>>5105097

Lol I didn't read that, pretty stupid of me. I've done cap replacements already on through hole stuff, game gears, batteries etc just never made my own cap list before.

But yeah when replacing I would make sure the old capacitor matches the new one in both voltage and microfarads.

[Anonymous No.5105167]

>>5105115
Yes it's a very impressive game.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5105208]

>>5104904
Playing it isn't the issue, and that's actually how I intended to play it back.

>>5105005
>should
What exactly are you asking? How often is safe/guidelines or?

Otherwise, it would only make sense to run it in the orientation that would make sense for the given game.

>>5105019
Wasn't saying otherwise, just not something I have as easy access to.

>>5105021
Neat

[Anonymous No.5105229]

>>5105005
>How often should a person rotate anyway?
There should be no problem with doing it as many times as you want, just make sure you turn it off and leave it off for 10 or 15 minutes or so prior to rotating it, otherwise the magnetized shadow mask and charged components will electrically induce fields that'll cause color impurity until you degauss the monitor.

[Anonymous No.5105243]

>>5105156
it sounds like part of what I said went over your head, so let me clarify
In high density designs, you have to make sure to match diameter and height of capacitors. Too wide, they won't fit. Too tall, they'll hit a heatsink.
You should also match the lead spacing so that they fit nicely in the board.

[Anonymous No.5105251]

>>5105208
I was saying that you shouldn't jump from game to game every five minutes. Set up in one mode and focus on a few games at a time. Give them some time to breathe.

[Anonymous No.5105314]

>>5103465
Man i really wish i used reddit just so i could have nabbed this fucking thing.
Why can't i find free 40+ monitors

[Anonymous No.5105330]

How do I run GBI? retrorgb says that the method they have posted is old and out of date. Looking to buy whatever is necessary to run it because i want to play fucking gb/gbc/gba games on my trini. Already have a gamecube and gameboy player.

Thanks in advance

[Anonymous No.5105334]

>>5105330
If you have melee and a wii, you can download some kind of save file which can open it

[Anonymous No.5105340]

>>5105334
whaa wait really?

[Anonymous No.5105342]

>>5105314
You'll see free or super cheap 36" CRT televisions show up on craigslist every now and then. I plan on getting one next year after I finish some life goals and clear out some space in my storage house.

This one here
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ele/d/36-crt-toshiba-tv/6692676511.html

is VERY tempting since it has component input and is from a respected CRT producer, but have to do my work before I can have fun.

As far as where to find big monitors like this the old answer was surplus auctions, but they are few and far between now. You might check production companies and see what they have sitting in a box, but you'd have to get very lucky.

This is purely anecdotal, but I am pretty sure, like 75% sure that I have seen a 40+ inch Mitsubishi television in the past in a television repair shop. I've never seen a TV from Mitsubishi talked about here that was that big, but I know what I saw, and I've been around plenty of 36" CRTs. This was bigger.

[Anonymous No.5105348]

>>5105342
I already own a 36inch trini and had a 20 inch bvm but i really want to get something like the nec or mistu 40 inchers. Every fucking inch counts!!! I'll get rid of my 36 inch even though its fucking perfect. I just want the biggest non HD CRT i can get.

I live in NYC so its next to impossible to get anything before it gets sniped and that means all production companies here have deff moved on from old shitty equipment.

[Anonymous No.5105354]

Rather uncommon TV to see in the USA
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/ele/d/used-bang-olufsen-bo/6676489293.html

[Anonymous No.5105360]

blegh
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/eld/d/sony-pvm-bvm-crt-production/6705839945.html

[Anonymous No.5105437]

>>5105360
Yeah this guy sucks. Are you in LA? I might have some leads for you if you're searching for a monitor.

[Anonymous No.5105441]

>>5105360
>Fucking scalpers

[Anonymous No.5105463]

>>5105360
retard's probably gonna get electrocuted one of these days

[Anonymous No.5105464]

>>5105360
This fucker clogs up the ads in San Diego too. Wish he would fuck off.

[Anonymous No.5105601]

>>5103107
Someone paid the $500 for it


STOP

[Anonymous No.5105643]

>>5105601
How much do you think it should have sold for?

$500 for a 29" high-end RGB monitor isn't crazy

[Anonymous No.5105669]

>>5105330
The method I use is similar to the original Twilight Hack to run softmods on Wii back in the day. You need a modified save file of Melee on your memory card, along with the GBI application you want to boot into. So when I want to boot Gameboy Interface, I pop in Melee (which like every gamecube owner has) and then go to the Name Entry section and it automatically boots the game.

The issue is how to get the modified melee files and GBI booter on a gamecube memory card. You can do this with a homebrew channel app on a softmodded Wii, which I also own.

This is just the method that I personally use because it required items that I already had. i know there are easier and more elegant ways to do it using an SD loader and/or AR disc or whatever, but I'm not familiar.

At any rate, it's definitely worth it. GBA games look crisp as fuck on a CRT in proper 240p with GBI. And none of the weird stuttering like with the native GBP. Oh, and you don't need the boot disc. I already own the boot disc, but this is important to know because it's so fucking cheap to get GBPs on ebay without the goddamn disc.

[Anonymous No.5105671]

>>5105360
Fuck these faggots. I hope nobody buys their bullshit and they're stuck with apartments full of these fuckers for years when they thought they could offload them quickly with ads such as "PVM CRT MONITOR RGB RETRO GAMING WOW"

[Anonymous No.5105672]

>>5105601
Honestly 500 for a 29" professional monitor isn't bad. That's the sort of price you see on ebay for 20 inch models and such.

I'd never pay it, but if I REALLY wanted a fuckhuge PVM and my choices were this dude on CL for 500 vs ebay for 1000-1500...

[Anonymous No.5105686]

>>5105672
Yes, and 29" is way more uncommon than 20". This is the size of monitor they use in Japanese arcades. It's going to command a premium.

[Anonymous No.5105908]

I had to jump through considerable hoops to get my PAL wii to display 60hz VC wads on my crt through RGB scart cable. Still can’t get N64 games to display in color, which may have to do with the sync on red signal not compatible with my kitchen-room-quality(tm) TV set. Still feels so good.

[Anonymous No.5105968]

>>5105908
was under the impression that RGB was RGB regardless of it being in Europe or north America, was I wrong to think that?

[Anonymous No.5105973]

>>5102038
Nice carpet. I'm guessing your live alone in some shithole apartment and here you are on 4chan posting about 4$ crt's that you can literally find curbside out for the trash. Cool.

[Anonymous No.5105980]

>>5105973
Who hurt you?

[Anonymous No.5105984]

>>5105973
Hey newfag. Welcome to paradise, where the colours are bright and the motion blur low. How's life in virgin-ville?

[Anonymous No.5106003]

>>5105908
That's composite, not RGB

>>5105968
It is

[Anonymous No.5106015]

>>5105968
I should have clarified it is a software issue rather than with the cable. Apparently NTSC VC titles don’t contemplate RGB among the possible outputs and the only signal my TV “sees” is the sync on chroma from the s-video mode the wii puts itself into when running VC games, giving it a predominantly red tint. Loaders are quite buggy and can’t always force the PAL60 mode needed to get rgb signal on my TV. Oh well, I should acquire a multi standard CRT now. (Disregard previous image, I was on the wrong tv input, this is true RGB)

[Anonymous No.5106021]

>>5105669
so what are these modified melee files?? I have a spare memory card and also have a modded wii etc. Is the app gamecube memory manager?

This is pretty exciting. Means I can get my GBI setup tonight when i get back from work. Would it still be best to run svideo over composite for gbi240p

[Anonymous No.5106031]

>>5106021
Been a while since I've configured this. It's a "set it and forget it" sort of thing. This page should be useful:
http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.php?title=Booting_Homebrew
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3023

[Anonymous No.5106039]

>>5106031
got ya, really appreciate the help man

[Anonymous No.5106043]

>>5106039
No problem. As another note, I personally hate playing GBA games with a GC controller, and those special hori pads are ridiculously expensive. But if you have a GBA and a link cable, you can actually use that as the controller, which I find very useful.

[Anonymous No.5106063]

>>5106043
thanks yea i saw that it works. Honestly might just buy a raphnet adapter and use a snes controller. adapters like 20 bucks and i've used one with great results for my 64.

[Anonymous No.5106093]

>>5106015
Oh, works fine through SNES9X-GX (excuse the scan artefacts, only have my phone handy to take a pic)

[Anonymous No.5106143]

>>5106063
Anyone want to point me in the direction of some Svideo cables?? OEM ones are fucking 50 dollars plus and i don't want to get some shitty 3rd party ones that will look worse than composite.

Whats a reliable name to look for, probs buying on ebay

[Anonymous No.5106229]

>>5106093
That’s true, never had issues with getting RGB signal on emulators (at 240p too), although I prefer to play VC versions when available.
So far I’ve managed to force pal60 on SNES and PCE games; no luck with NES and Genesis (which are fairly accurately emulated on Wii, to be honest). N64 emulation is out of the question, on the other hand 3D games are much more tolerable on a LCD at 480p through Component cables.

[Anonymous No.5106263]

>>5106229
Wrong picture*

[Anonymous No.5106309]

>>5106229
Why not just get a NTSC Wii?

[Anonymous No.5106334]

>>5106309
Because Wii are exactly the same hardware-wise around the world, the only difference lies in software and as I’ve already pointed out a multi standard CRT with SCART inputs would solve all of my problems. Hell, the issue arises precisely because the Wii is putting out a NTSC signal of all things and Nintendo being her old self half-assed things by disabling RGB output in VC mode for NTSC regions. Only PAL VC got that sweet RGB support, although it all goes completely wasted on 50hz shitty slow-ass conversions of games. Getting the best from both worlds is the point of it all.

[Anonymous No.5106341]

>>5106334
Component out from a Wii is pretty much the same as RGB. A base Wii doesn't have the best analog out regardless of what you use though

[Anonymous No.5106347]

>>5106341
Component-equipped CRTs are extremely hard to get hold of in Europe though.

Can VC games be run through homebrew somehow to get around the regional restriction bullshit?

[Anonymous No.5106359]

>>5106341
Component inputs, as far as I know, came along mostly with the bulky widescreen CRTs of the late 90s, ideally a <20 inch display is what I’m after.

>>5106347

Yes, that’s what I’m already doing (booting VC games through a homebrew program which forces Wii in PAL60 mode), but it only seems to work with SNES and PCE games and it’s rather buggy. As I said, other 8/16bit titles can be easily emulated with varying degree of accuracy, for N64 games I’m pretty much shafted.

[Anonymous No.5106598]

>>5104956
Well yeah because it was a now or never moment. I had waited long enough to get a trinitron and it just popped up for cheap.

[Anonymous No.5106602]

>>5106359
>Component inputs, as far as I know, came along mostly with the bulky widescreen CRTs of the late 90s, ideally a <20 inch display is what I’m after.
There are 13" and 19" JVC SDTVs with component input. I've got one of the 13" units and it is great. They don't go for much on ebay, so even with international shipping it shouldn't be too bad.

[Anonymous No.5106603]

you guys should make an archive of the best CRT pics posted in these threads

[Anonymous No.5106621]

I'm wondering: where did this idea come around now that you are supposed to get amazing CRTs for dirt cheap?

That was a thing that lasted a few sweet years in the late 2000s and early 2010s. And even then it was mostly relegated to the very small or extremely large CRTs.

Mid-sized high quality production monitors have always cost a little bit, or a lot. It's nice to track down a NEC XM29 for $100, but you shouldn't act like you're entitled to find one for that price.

[Anonymous No.5106665]

On my way to pick up a pvm-2030 for $50. Pray to the God of calibration for me, boys.

[Anonymous No.5106697]

>That top left
Jesus, and I thought my BeoVision was bad before I tinkered with the pots

[Anonymous No.5106729]

Took some pictures of my PVM-1351Q, got it (plus a 20" Ganz monitor (decent shape but low quality) and a Sony BetaSP professional tape editor unit of unknown functionality) for $60. The aperture grille had been magnetized by something and there was a dark spot near the middle of the screen. I bought a big external degaussing coil and was able to fix it right up. She's my baby.

[Anonymous No.5106735]

>>5105671
Unfortunately he's probably making a killing off of people like melee fans.

[Anonymous No.5106742]

>>5106729

[Anonymous No.5106746]

>>5106742

[Anonymous No.5106747]

Anyone have advice on what/where to buy for PS2 component cables? There's plenty of cable options around but I'm concerned they're going to have audio buzzing.

[Anonymous No.5106750]

>>5106747
I got some PS3 era monster cables for around 25 bucks on ebay. They've served me well.

[Anonymous No.5106752]

>>5106747
>>5106750
Looks like there's an ebay listing for some now
www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Monster-Cable-Gold-Plated-Component-Playstation-3-Tested/123430688474

[Anonymous No.5106754]

>>5106746

[Anonymous No.5106756]

>>5106754
last one

[Anonymous No.5106760]

>>5106752
Wait, these ones only have video cable output, not audio. I guess you can use optical audio out though.

[Anonymous No.5106775]

>>5106750
>>5106752
>>5106760
Thanks for the help. I always thought Monster cables were a meme though. And actually that you mention it, I totally forgot the PS2 has the optical audio out. I've never actually used one of those, but in this instance it'd mean an easy way to bypass any possible audio buzz issues with cheaper cables.

[Anonymous No.5106795]

>>5106621
I can tell you that sort of era is not over. I've seen plenty of excellent PVMs go for less than $100 in surplus auctions, and you can always call up video production companies to ask if they have any they're not using.

Obviously, those sorts of low prices are exceptions to the norm nowadays, but the option is still there for those willing to put the time and work into finding one for dirt cheap.

[Anonymous No.5106803]

>>5106775
https://castlemaniagames.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fhd-retrovision-playstation-23-ypbpr-component-cable-next-shipment-thursday-0524
Also a good choice albeit a bit more expensive

[Anonymous No.5106807]

>>5106795
>but the option is still there for those willing to put the time and work into finding one for dirt cheap.
This. I'm >>5106729, I dedicated myself fanatically to checking Craiglist ten times a day for about two months before I found my deal and got to it first. One other time before it I missed an extremely rare, ultra-valuable monitor by a matter of hours.
You either pay with your money or with your time.

[Anonymous No.5106819]

I might need to get rid of my 32" Sony Trinitron because I am moving. How much will I regret doing this?

[Anonymous No.5106823]

>>5104881
I have an old magnavox that I want to mod too. I was looking at the 8-bit boomer's video on RGB mods for TV and it seemed fairly straight forward.

[Anonymous No.5106835]

How usable for retro is this?
https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-cpd-300sf-crt-monitor-20/specs/
It also has rgb bnc connectors in the back

[Anonymous No.5106839]

>>5106835
Probably best off using emulators on it.

[Anonymous No.5106851]

>>5106819
a lot
don't do it

[Anonymous No.5106856]

>>5106839
What about for retro pc? I have an old dell crt I've been using for that but it's nothing special. Is the Sony monitor worth #50?

[Anonymous No.5106862]

>>5106835
Amazing for 480p and above. Which includes thousands of /vr/ games.

>>5106839
They had these things called PC games back in the day ya know. A lot of them were high resolution. But yes, emulators for 240p systems will still look great on it with the use of shaders.

Here is some simulated 240p on a PC CRT monitor.

[Anonymous No.5106902]

>>5106862
or in 240p120 if you're playing a game that doesn't have a lot of scrolling, or you just don't notice/care.

[Anonymous No.5106913]

>>5106902
120 refers to Hz, right? How would it look different than 60 Hz?

[Anonymous No.5107128]

Is there an ideal way to connect my PC to my CRT TV? My PC's output doesn't seem to fill the screen properly on my CRT TV, except for when games full screen properly.

I use this HDMI to RCA converter;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGDB3V8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Anonymous No.5107137]

>>5106143

There's an ebay seller called gamesnow, he's in sweden but makes good cables. https://www.ebay.com/usr/gamesnow IIRC they were like $30 or so, very high quality.

[Anonymous No.5107153]

>>5106913
Static image will look identical.

When in motion you will have blurring due to phosphors remaining energized from previous frames since you are drawing frames every 1/120th of a second instead of 1/60.

I think. tbqh this is hard to conceptualize and for all I know the CRT could automatically adjust beam power to compensate for the phosphor decay time.

But I do know that in direct first-hand tests on the same monitor 120hz had noticeable blurring compared to 60hz in 240p test suite's scroll test.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5107172]

>>5106913
>>5107153
You get ghosting from having duplicate frames. Black frame insertion can get rid of the issue, but ends up cutting your brightness in half.

[Anonymous No.5107173]

>>5107172
But how are the duplicate frames causing the ghosting?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5107181]

>>5107173
The lack of proper time for the phosphors to decay sufficiently combined with one's natural persistence of vision, and the matter that the duplicate frames don't hold any additional information.

[Anonymous No.5107182]

Why is PAL60 such a mess? PAL60 from an N64 doesn't work on my Sony PVM but works on a JVC. PAL60 from a Wii is the exact opposite, fine on Sony but not JVC. The weirdest thing is that both work on a no-name consumer CRT.

[Anonymous No.5107203]

Nearly bought two B/W portable tvs at the thrift store before I came to my senses

[Anonymous No.5107226]

>>5107181
so basically what >>5107153
already said

[Anonymous No.5107236]

>>5107137
yeah this guy is great if you can catch him when his store has stock.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5107238]

>>5107226
Essentially. Was mainly just mentioning BFI as being a potential option. If you have a set with Super Bright mode, that could solve some of the issues with the dimmer image.

[Anonymous No.5107312]

>>5106143
http://www.consolegoods.co.uk/

you have to order through his website but he accepts paypal. good quality cables and probably the best bang for buck you will find

[Anonymous No.5107445]

>>5107137
thanks i saw that reddit post too when i googled best s video cables
>>5107312
much appreciated folks. I settled on some 8 dollar svideo cable some reddit fag said was decent when compared to originals.

So I did it, can you guys guess which is GBI and which is not? I was hoping to actually be blown away but I might not have picked the best version of GBI. I'm going to attribute it to shitty composite cables. I barely notice any difference.

[Anonymous No.5107462]

>>5107445

[Anonymous No.5107467]

>>5107445
>can you guys guess which is GBI
Top in the first one, bottom in the second one?

[Anonymous No.5107495]

>>5107467
>Top in the first one, bottom in the second one?
Shouldn't it be the opposite since GBI doesn't have any decorative borders?

[Anonymous No.5107501]

>>5107495
well, first top second bottom looks the best

[Anonymous No.5107597]

>>5104881
Not easily, on that set the OSD and jungle IC are combined together so you'd have to do higher voltage RGB to the neck board.

[Anonymous No.5107638]

>>5106835
Just get it. Even with the issues that have been brought up here.

[Anonymous No.5107651]

Thoughts on B&O crt tvs? They seem pretty high end and you can snatch em up pretty cheap where I live.

[Anonymous No.5107710]

>>5107651
i wish those were common and cheap in finland as well
i heard they are dirt cheap in sweden etc

[Anonymous No.5107741]

Heads up for this thread:

I will be selling my white PVM 1271Q on ebay in the next day or two. It is in very good shape and works perfectly. This will be funding the cabinet project.

[Anonymous No.5107809]

>>5107445
The main benefits arent things that can be seen on a still image
1) progressive image vs flickering interlace image
2) input lag
3) microstutter

[Anonymous No.5107859]

>>5107467
Opposite
>>5107495
Bingo
>>5107501
>>5107809
I only notice a very minor bit of lag on the regular gameboy player. Doesn't feel like loads more of what I'm getting from the gbi.

The main prob I have had that the picture is so noisy when I run gbi. It's like there's static on every part of the screen. Almost seems like checkerboarding but I doubt that's what it is. Not sure how to describe it but the screen is just more noisy. I don't get that at all with the gbp which I found surprising. I will say that everything was very smooth when playing metroid fusion but god the noise actually hurt my eyes compared to the regular gbp. I'm really hoping that svideo helps out and makes gbi look as breathe taking as everyone says it is

[Anonymous No.5107861]

>>5107859
Thats very strange, i dont notice any static/noise when I use GBI. I use the LL file FWIW

Also for me the stutter with vanilla GBP is very noticeable, especially with fast paced games like sonic advance, mach bike in pokemon, zero mission, dankey kang, etc

[Anonymous No.5107887]

>>5107861
Yea idk what it is but it just doesn't look great. I wouldn't say I have a super awesome eye for scaling etc but overall the picture is just noiser than the regular player.

I'm using the high fidelity version of GBI since it's supposed to yield the best results. I popped in krazy racers and did a time trial lap. Deff felt the lag but the picture was pretty much comparable to GBI.

I'm really praying that it's composite cables making everything look shit. Getting svideo soonish so hopefully everything clears up then

[Anonymous No.5107903]

>>5107887
Heres a pic I just took with GBI LL via s-video

[Anonymous No.5107908]

>>5107903
Keep in mind those patterns on the screen are jus a moire effect from the camera

[Anonymous No.5107941]

>>5107903
That looks sweet. Is there any reason why my gbi image looks worse than standard player? It's kind of pissing me off now.

I'm playing on a GameCube with official Nintendo composite cables plugged to the front of a Sony KV-36FV310(not sure if plugging into the front or back makes a difference). I'm using the Smash Bros Melee bootup method of GBI. Not sure what other info I could give

[Anonymous No.5107949]

>>5107941

Not the guy you quoted, but is Smash Bros. method the same as Wind Waker? I use WW and it just boots straight into the gameboy game, I wish there would be a settings option or some shit.

[Anonymous No.5107952]

>>5107949
You boot up the game, go into VS and then go to name entry. Then it boots up

[Anonymous No.5108002]

Guys, i've found this Panasonic (matsushita) tx 14gv1c, is good enough for retro-consoles?

[Anonymous No.5108039]

So,I have a Sony Wega, just like the one in the picture (it has 3 rca, 1 s-video and 2 component). I have all my consoles hooker up with rca with a splitter, and I'm pretty much okay with that. I'm thinking of buying a component cable for my ps2, wii and xbox, I'd like to know if there's gonna be a noticeable difference on the picture quality or it's not worth the change.
Sorry if my question might sound stupid, but I'm new at this kind of stuff. Thanks anyway.

[Anonymous No.5108045]

>>5108002
Unless you are an autistic person who thinks rgb is the only and acceptable way of displaying retrogames instead of actually playing the games and having fun, any crt will do.

[Anonymous No.5108048]

>>5108045
Behind there is a scart, so it should accept rgb video cables from older generation consoles...but maybe i'm wrong.

[Anonymous No.5108105]

>>5108045
But we're all autists here

[Anonymous No.5108118]

>>5107741
Whereabouts are you? Might be interested if you're near me.

[Anonymous No.5108129]

>>5108039
short answer, yes.

[Anonymous No.5108206]

>>5107741
>I will be selling my white PVM 1271Q on ebay in the next day or two.
Do you have a price tag in mind or else are you putting it up for auction?

[Anonymous No.5108291]

What should I be looking for in a /vr/ pc monitor? Not so much for emulation but for dos and 90s pc games.

[Anonymous No.5108346]

>>5108002
I have an extremely similar Panasonic of the same size that's component only. It actually looks really good for what it is. I keep it as a backup set or something to take to a friends house on occasion.

[Anonymous No.5108359]

>>5108346
Sorry, I meant to say composite.

[Anonymous No.5108489]

>>5108291
H refresh rate >96Hz
screen size >19", 21" is the common for higher end

unless you want to be period-accurate, in which case pick up any 1024x768 17 incher. there's always a dell e773c or equivalent on craigslist

[Anonymous No.5108493]

Next crt thread should have the Poltergeist haunted tv scene pics in it. It would be spooky for halloween.

[Anonymous No.5108821]

found a neat little panasonic security monitor, might jump on it, looks cozy

[Anonymous No.5108962]

>>5108821
Just got one with similar specs to this last night while on vacation. Gonna ship it back to my house tomorrow. 420 TVL and s-video, looked pretty fuckin good when I tested it out. $2 thrift store special found in the wild. Amazing.

[Anonymous No.5108964]

>>5108962
Pic related btw.

[Anonymous No.5108968]

>>5108962
>>5108964
where are you vacationing?

[Anonymous No.5108975]

>>5108821
>>5108962
>>5108964

I have the 20" model of this TV. 450tvl and svideo. It's a pretty nice little set.

[Anonymous No.5108986]

>>5108968
Vegas. I got super lucky though. I asked around a few retro stores and checked every thrift shop in town before I found this little set in a last ditch effort. Even Craigslist had shit for consumer level stuff, let alone an actual decent monitor.

[Anonymous No.5109031]

>>5108118
Kentucky
>>5108206
Probably an auction starting at $100 shipped

[Anonymous No.5109192]

>>5108821
cute
watch out for burn in.

[Anonymous No.5109220]

>>5109192
he's labeled it 'like new', and from the pictures of it on I'm inclined to believe it

[Anonymous No.5109312]

Anyone have any luck buffing out or filling in scratches on a CRT? It's not a big deal to me personally, just wondering if I can get this to look slightly less noticeable.

[Anonymous No.5109361]

>>5109312
some say rubbing in toothpaste can work; it probably doesn't but it wouldn't hurt to try

[Anonymous No.5109368]

I see the pelco made some nice monitors, but this is probably just another baby 9" judging from the size of the bezel, right?

[Anonymous No.5109373]

>>5109368

Yeah, looks like a 9 incher to me.

[Anonymous No.5109403]

>>5109368
actually, I've been autistically combing over this website https://www.securityinformed.com/cctv-monitors.html?status=Discontinued&page=1 and only this 15" monitor fits the image based on the location of the knobs and emblem.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/469892-REG/Pelco_PMCS15A_PMCS15A_15_Super_High.html
what do you guys think? A match?

[Anonymous No.5109445]

>>5109403
The bezel in the ad pic looks deceptive but after a second or third glance I'll be damned if that isn't the one. If you're the same anon looking to buy it I'd have a look at it in person if possible. Hell, even if it is a 9" and reasonably priced I'd go for it. My baby Ikegami is dope in the right scenario and probably isn't even quite as good as one of these from a spec standpoint.

[Anonymous No.5109458]

>>5109312
>Anyone have any luck buffing out or filling in scratches on a CRT?
You could use a buffer, and some cerium oxide. I have NEVER polished a CRT screen, but have used C.oxide and "barmaid's friend" on glass fish tanks before. You may not ever be able to buff without a lot of work depending on the depth of the scratches. It is a bit of work, and is messy. Its the best way I know to get rid of scratches, and is never really 100%.

[Anonymous No.5109512]

>>5109458
Fish tanks and CRTs are not the same my dude. You already mentioned that though. See I was looking for someone who maybe had some luck working on the subject at hand.

[Anonymous No.5109546]

Does my PVM seem too dark to you guys? I got it from someone who used it for editing everyday, so all the caps are new (I know because the guy said he replaced them himself & the geometry is perfect), but even with contrast to max it seems too dark. Is it just old? Should have asked how long he used it for, but I was so happy to get it I didn't bother. Would having someone "flush the tube" to clean out the guns fix this, or are 800 line PVMs just "like" this compared to lower line CRTs? The e only other RGB monitors I've seen are 600 line ones & those all seemed much more vibrant, even if thee less sharp.

[Anonymous No.5109719]

>>5109546
Can you change the color temperature?

[Anonymous No.5109814]

>>5109546
Looks fine to me but it's hard to gauge from a photo.

Throw up some SMPTE colour bars and maybe a standalone PLUGE. It's the only way to calibrate reliably.

[Anonymous No.5109817]

>>5109546
>>5109814
Here's a good guide on how to set up a monitor's chrominance and luminance values using colour bars:

https://web.archive.org/web/20101221044334/http://www.negativespaces.com/blog/2008/6/18/hd-monitor-calibration-with-smpte-and-arib-bars.html

[Anonymous No.5109909]

>>5109814
>>5109817
Not him, but I've personally given up on bothering with fiddling with picture controls. The problem is that it's not standard across platforms. You fiddle with that shit and you think you finally got everything perfect, only to then find out that those settings only apply to the system that you used to host the calibration images from 240p test suite. For example, Super Nintendo looking really fucking bright compared to everything else, and if you adjust brightness/contrast using a SNES, then all your other stuff ends up too dark.

[Anonymous No.5109973]

Is anyone in southern California and looking for a good deal?

[Anonymous No.5109981]

>>5109546
I have a 14L5 that's like this, I just set the contrast to 75/100 and the brightness to +12 and then it looks the same as other monitors.
There's gotta be a way to adjust it in the service menu but I'm too lazy.

[Anonymous No.5109987]

>>5109981
>There's gotta be a way to adjust it in the service menu but I'm too lazy.
It should have a pot on the neckboard that adjusts an 'internal' brightness

[Anonymous No.5109990]

is this 27 inch philips HD CRT a good purchase?

[Anonymous No.5110010]

Going to get a Samsung Syncmaster with VGA and RGBHV BNC inputs later today

[Anonymous No.5110075]

>>5109990
hd crt's line double 240p content (or more like line quadruple). It looks almost as bad as lcd for sd content

[Anonymous No.5110089]

>>5109546
Which model of PVM is this?

[Anonymous No.5110110]

>>5109990
i know this fucker its pretty decent the screenstretchfitfeature is nice

[Anonymous No.5110205]

before I do something stupid like drive three hours is a pvm worth $75?

[Anonymous No.5110225]

>>5110205
Which model, dingus?

[Anonymous No.5110227]

>>5102209
>>5102258

I think it depends where you live. I find CRT's constantly for next to nothing or quite literally nothing. We have several stores that deal exclusively with retro gaming in my city as well. Hell, I found a 27" Sony a week ago that worked perfectly but I didn't have the room for it so i took it to Goodwill after I posted it for free in a local FB group and no one took it.

[Anonymous No.5110228]

>>5109990
For HD content (wii, Xbox, ps3) it's OK.

[Anonymous No.5110245]

>>5110225
Hmm. OK get ready:
(Help why are there so many models)
20M2MDU,
20L2MD
20L2ST
1953MD
1953ST
1943MD

[Anonymous No.5110262]

>>5109909
Well I always use an independent source to display test images (Extron VTG 300) and where possible, like on a BVM-20F1, I'll set up each console on a separate channel so they match as closely as can be easily achieved.

Big differences between consoles suggests the cabling isn't properly set up in terms of impedance though. Are you sure your SNES cable has the appropriate resistors installed?

[Anonymous No.5110293]

>>5110205
If it's at least a 13" and in good condition, then hell yes!

[Anonymous No.5110318]

>>5110205
too bad I already took it off their hands :)

[Anonymous No.5110407]

>>5110245
Everyone of those is worth more than $75.

[Anonymous No.5110456]

>>5109361
Can confirm. Scratched my Trinitron with a ring once and toothpaste buffed it out. Probably won't work on very deep scratches.

[Anonymous No.5110495]

>>5110089
Pvm-20m4

[Anonymous No.5110589]

>>5110407
Ugh I wont have time until next week but they might be gone next week

[Anonymous No.5110621]

>>5110245
>20L2ST
What in the fuck?

[Anonymous No.5110634]

>>5110010
とったど!

[Anonymous No.5110636]

>>5110621
Oh shit my bad
20L2MD/ST

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5110784]

>>5110621
Models marked with /ST after them were factory fitted with SDI Modules.

[Anonymous No.5110885]

This is unfixable, yeah? Looks like an antiglare layer inside has separated or something like that.

[Anonymous No.5110889]

>>5110885
Forgot pic

[Anonymous No.5110893]

>>5110889
Oh shit no this is on the surface... So I guess I could peel it all off? I've heard of people doing that before

[Anonymous No.5110947]

Is it true that some pvm models have input lag? if so, which ones?

[Anonymous No.5110973]

>>5110947
Ones that have upscaling

[Anonymous No.5111030]

>>5110947
>>5110973
There may possibly exist such a pvm, but I can almost guarantee you will not encounter it. Pvms, if not SD only, will be multiformat, meaning it can scan multiple resolutions natively and will never add lag due to post-processing

[Anonymous No.5111045]

>>5110893
I had similar stuff and somewhat deep scratches on my FW900, mostly because of my cat failing to jump on top of it. I thought it would require peeling off the anti glare, but it seems the film has started to melt away when I tried to clean it with modern Emtec screen wipes.
It took me a while to remove everything, but the screen wipes actually had removed the whole anti glare film. The screen is now scratches-free, but also way glossier than before.
I suggest trying that before attempting to remove the film manually.

[Anonymous No.5111046]

>>5110889
What anime

[Anonymous No.5111048]

>>5111045
Thanks so much for the suggestion, I'll give that a shot. Could you give me a link to exactly the kind you used?
>>5111046
It's not from an anime, it's just a wallpaper. I'm on mobile right now (about to go to bed) but I'll post it tomorrow if you like.

[Anonymous No.5111053]

unsatisfied GBI guy here. Posting some more pics. Tell me what ya'll think

[Anonymous No.5111054]

>>5111053

[Anonymous No.5111056]

>>5111048
https://www.amazon.com/EMTEC-Power-Clean-Screen-Wipes/dp/B00IGNVYJY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

[Anonymous No.5111059]

>>5111053
thanks for the pics
I was thinking about trying it and now I probably will just stick to playing on a gameboy

[Anonymous No.5111082]

>>5111059
yea idk people on here say its not about a still image quality but how it displays. just hoping the fucking svideo cables help out because at this point i barely see a point in using gbi over gameboy player and then over just a regular gb

[Anonymous No.5111097]

>>5111059
>>5111082
>composhit is shit
NEWS BLAST

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5111103]

>>5110947
>>5110973
>>5111030
20M7MDE is the only one, and only for SD sources. 480p on it is supposedly still lagless.

>>5111082
What set is that on? You've got color bleeding out the ass.

Also, what version of GBI?

[Anonymous No.5111221]

I keep seeing those mid-sized old Trinitrons posted online from free to cheap. Wish I knew how to RGB mod them, I'd replace my current CRT with one in a heartbeat

[Anonymous No.5111419]

>>5111097
Will s vid really make that much of a change.
>>5111221
Sony KV-36FV310 and it's the high fidelity version of GBI. I spent a good amount of time on 240p test suite adjusting my colors for my bvm back when I had one. For the most part I let the 36 sit on the standard preset or movie preset which is darker.

[Anonymous No.5111435]

>>5111103
wow zero 3 actually looks good on that

[Anonymous No.5111510]

Um

[Anonymous No.5111518]

>>5111419
>Will s vid really make that much of a change.
S-Video gives an improvement in sharpness over composite. RGB gives an improvement in color over S-Video.
I know because I made both upgrades.

[Anonymous No.5111539]

>>5111056
Thanks
>>5111046
Here you go, pic related

[Anonymous No.5111543]

>>5111510
I'm in the same area as you (Denver, right?) and I saw that idiot's post recently. Every time I see it I heavily consider sending him an email to call him out on being so lazy.

[Anonymous No.5111548]

When playing a snes game through the Wii, does it display at the proper resolution for CRTplay?

[Anonymous No.5111596]

I seriously doubt someone will help me but still...

I'm on the process to get a SCART-modded Tv, while i do have some consoles to play (a Wii and a DC, i would need only the cables tho), i want to make a SBC-based console.

The most logical choice would be go for a Raspberry pi, but, i want to have as much power as i can, so i want to use something like an Odroid XU4, that can run Everything up to the dreamcast and saturn, the problem is that all the SCART or RGB for SBC solutions are focused on the raspberry pi.

Has anyone tried to run an Odroid thru a SCART-modded tv or similar? is there any guide to do that?

[Anonymous No.5111758]

>>5111543
That's actually a Chicago ad. I guess he's mobile

[Anonymous No.5112124]

>>5111758
why is it always chicago?

[Anonymous No.5112221]

>>5111596
hdmi out of the odroid to a vga dongle would give you rgb I think, you would have to be a 240p or 480i tho most likely

[Anonymous No.5112263]

got an older Montgomery Ward CRT for free a week or so ago, it's not that great of a set and is quite beat up but i really love the aesthetic of it.

even has a glass plate to protect the tube.

[Anonymous No.5112393]

>>5112263
I'm:
>>5103092

Mine is also somewhat beat up. Although that's to be expected with a near 30-year-old TV.

[Anonymous No.5112419]

>>5112393
wow yhe pucture on there is pretty wacky dude. does it bug you when you play something that autoscrolls?

[Anonymous No.5112435]

>>5112393
my little 13 inch is from 1984, it seems to be pretty alright function wise other than a slight convergence issue but this may just be how it handles composite as not only is it old enough for composite/RF it also has the screws for antenna.

[Anonymous No.5112436]

>>5112419
I've hardly done much stuff on it, and I don't think I'll be using it too often, considering I already own a similarly sized PVM that doesn't have any wonky geometry.. I have no idea if this thing even has a service menu, but I'm hoping I can fiddle with the settings and run 240p test suite on it at some point to get it looking nicer.

[Anonymous No.5112564]

So, are flat trinitrons no good?
I managed to find a 21" 2001 model with s-video and rca, and what it seems to be a bnc connector or something, its fucking golden.

I guess I'll bite the bullet anyway because its cheap (30bux)

[Anonymous No.5112574]

>>5112564
No component and its flat screen? The fuck?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5112580]

>>5112574
There are plenty of FD Trinitrons without Component.

>>5112564
What's the model number?

[Anonymous No.5112616]

Just got finished making and installing an RGB mod kit for my N64. First soldering project I've ever done and it worked out fine. Hardest part was placing the tiny little surface-mounted resistors and capacitor on the amplifier PCB. Luckily I had an earlier model N64 so the easier mod was available, and I also didn't need to fuck around with desoldering anything from the board or wiring in csync, since I was able to just hook my SNES csync cable up and it worked perfectly.

I'm actually quite impressed by N64 RGB. Everything I saw online said it wasn't a very noticeable boost. And while s-video is certainly "good enough", this is clearly better and the colors are so much crisper. IMO better than the boost from s-video to RGB on a normal SNES (not one of those 1chip minis).

[Anonymous No.5112625]

>>5112580
kv - 21fv12c(and then 77 I think, or /7), blurry pic.
Made in mexico. I could get other trinitrons models made in spain and japan as well, I don't know if where they were made changes something.

[Anonymous No.5112630]

Threadly reminder to remove that anti-glare coating. It's easy to do and improves the picture of your CRT significantly!

[Anonymous No.5112635]

Are there any small / high quality CRTs that take VGA? I want something PVM sized that takes VGA, don't know if it exists.

[Anonymous No.5112637]

>>5112635
tons, for example the monitor above your post or basically any PC monitor of course. They all come in different sizes.

[Anonymous No.5112642]

>>5112637
the smallest ive found is like 15" but they're all huge as fuck, guess I'll keep looking

[Anonymous No.5112646]

>>5112630
Is there a way to tell whether your PVM has an anti-glare cover or not. I don't want to go about slicing the corners of my screen just to find out no coating is there at all and I'm just fucking things up bigly

[Anonymous No.5112652]

>>5112630

Looks like CRT gore.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5112674]

>>5112625
Looks to be Coax, Composite, and S-Video, yeah.

If it's in decent shape, it'd be a nice little TV.

>>5112646
You'd need to remove the bezel to do it anyway. Hard to tell from that photo, but it's pulled forward at the top a bit.

Also worth noting that while it can safe a scuffed up or set which has been cleaned with the wrong chemicals, removing the anti-glare can tank your contrast in even average lighting conditions. If you play in the dark it's all fine and good though.

>>5112642
For anything smaller than ~15'' viewable, you're going to be looking at much much older sets in most cases. For example, there are some late 80s Trinitron PC CRTs that are something like 12-13'' or so. Issue is they aren't going to support much in terms of resolution/refresh rate.

[Anonymous No.5112890]

Between a PVM-20M4A and a BVM-2016P which would you guys go for?
Because I need to sell one, and I can't decide which to keep since I think they both have the same number of TVL.

[Anonymous No.5113202]

>>5112890
The PVM.

[Anonymous No.5113428]

oh shit, found a trinitron kv-21se42C from 1999, should I grab it?, it only has rca and bnc. Also 30bux

[Anonymous No.5113565]

If I mod my n64 for rgb, can I use the same scart cable. I've been using with my snes?

[Anonymous No.5113601]

>>5113428
Can it take component?

[Anonymous No.5113796]

>>5112635
You want to look at monitors that were used in cash registers, sometimes labeled as POS (point of sale) monitors. Beware of burn-in.

[Anonymous No.5113838]

what's a good component switch?

[Anonymous No.5113840]

>>5111419
>Will s vid really make that much of a change.
Absofukenlutely, it's by far the biggest quality jump for 240p content.

[Anonymous No.5113848]

>>5112890
Keep the BVM-2016, last line of analog BVMs. Or sell it to me.

[Anonymous No.5113895]

>>5111510
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. That said, I have responded to the listings by guys like this and told them what I have to offer, and they ended up being to much of a prissy bitch. Dudes want amazing monitors for dirt cheap, and won't take anything less than the most memed top tier shit like he has listed there. I tell the guys I have arcade monitors, older PVMs, Mitsus, component TVs, all kinds of shit.

Nah, nah. Got to be a BVM for fiddy bucks.

Keep dreaming buddy

[Anonymous No.5113904]

>>5110495
If you take off the back of the monitor there will be a knob labeled SCREEN that controls the gamma adjustment of the monitor. Take a thin permanent marker and make a mark on the knob and the casing around it. Be careful to touch nothing else.

Then use a screwdriver with an insulted handle to adjust the screen setting up until your screen is less dark. Use the contrast and brightness controls to adjust it. Working between SCREEN, contrast, and brightness you should be able to get a more vibrant picture.

There is also a control for FOCUS which you could try adjusting, but if you think the screen is perfectly sharp as it is leave it alone.

[Anonymous No.5113906]

>>5102209
>Professional CRTs are becoming increasingly more expensive and unaffordable
For NEETs maybe. For people with jobs spending $300 on a CRT isn't a big deal.

[Anonymous No.5113912]

CRTs were made and sold in India into the 2010s. There are likely warehouses full of them there.

I've actually sent a few emails just now to see what the availability of them is in large shipments.

[Anonymous No.5113916]

>>5105079
Is that legend of dragoon?

[Anonymous No.5114137]

Got myself a SLG-3000.

[Anonymous No.5114167]

>>5113916
The other dragoon game

[Anonymous No.5114223]

How hard would it be to mod a 27 Trinitron from the early 90's? the early models don't have jungle chips right?

[Anonymous No.5114423]

Opened up my toshiba From 2005 & can't find anything that looks like a Jungle Chip to pull RGB from. Is this one of those CRTs made so late that is doesn't have one? It's a small VCR/DVD combo machine that only has RF.cable in the back so I was hoping to get some use out of it. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.5114431]

>>5114423
& here's the right side below the gun. The rest of the insides are gamed in another compartment below that contains the VCR & DVD compartment. I's an MW14F51. Is there a schematic online where I could look this up?

[Anonymous No.5114472]

>>5114431
have fun, nigga
https://elektrotanya.com/toshiba_mw14f51.pdf/download.html

[Anonymous No.5114474]

>>5102038
I happened to have the exact same consumer CRT as David Murray (the 8-bit guy) so I decided to perform his RGB mod on mine, even emailing him to find out what specific value resistors he used. So I did the mod, and it worked fine... minus one tinsy little thing. As you can see the expected leap in quality between the Genesis's notoriously shitty composite and its RGB is fully present, but the colors are washed out.

[Anonymous No.5114476]

>>5114474
Part 2

It's especially visible when nothing is being displayed, and this does NOT manifest at all in normal composite mode. I'm thinking maybe it has something to do with the resistors I installed, but double checking with my multimeter confirms that they're the correct resistance: 75 ohms. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.5114496]

>>5114472
>Have no idea what I'm looking at
welp, guess It's back to the books. This thing's going right back into storage until I figure out what I'm suppose to do with it.

[Anonymous No.5114508]

>>5114476
Did you finish his part 2 where he realized he was feeding 5v into the cpu?

[Anonymous No.5114531]

>>5113202
>>5113848
Thanks. Guess I'm selling the PVM then.

Any idea where to sell it? And for how much?
As suggested by A in 20M4A I'm an Ausfag; if you're in South Australia you can have first pickings.

[Anonymous No.5114558]

>>5114508
Yes.

[Anonymous No.5114596]

Alright so I've adjusted the brightness knob on the flyback transformer which has fixed the issue here: >>5114476

The issue with the washed out colors remains, which I'm fairly certain can be attributed to the resistors I installed. Anyone have any recommendations on how to calculate the right resistance resistors I should use or am I going to have to keep installing new, lower (or higher?) resistance resistors until I arrive at the right color depth?

[Anonymous No.5114601]

>>5114596
Also just a note to anyone wanting to do this for themselves be advised that even modded to accept RGB consumer TVs simply do not compare to trinitrons. This particular unit has intense coil whine and the regular composite video has an obnoxious, slightly blue tinge to it.

[Anonymous No.5114624]

>>5114531
20 inch HR pvms go for good money
I'd probably pay like 400 USD if I could get one locally

[Anonymous No.5114627]

>>5114596
>>5114476
>>5114474
Color comparison, modded TV up top, PVM below.

[Anonymous No.5114628]

>>5114624
>400 USD
Fucking Jesus. I had no idea their value had inflated that much.
I only paid 380 AUD for both, so thanks for the heads up.

[Anonymous No.5114643]

>>5114627
firstly, camera on full manual? Does it look similar over composite?

[Anonymous No.5114649]

>>5114643
Colors are fine through composite since the two signals are totally isolated from each other.

[Anonymous No.5114652]

>>5114649
Try disconnecting the resistors from the OSD chip.

[Anonymous No.5114659]

>>5114652
But then I wouldn't have anywhere to inject the RGB signal.

[Anonymous No.5114840]

>>5114659
I mean RGB injection only, no connection from the OSD generator's output to the jungle.

[Anonymous No.5115280]

>>5114840
But don't the RGB values need to be lowered or something before being processed by the jungle chip? If I bypass the resistors can I somehow overload it?

[Anonymous No.5115295]

How to display a test card on my CRT? Do I have to put one on a VHS or a DVD? I don't have a testcard generator either. They don't show one after the broadcasts and there's not a single one in teletext.

[Anonymous No.5115308]

>>5115295
UK? There's a hidden one on Freeview:

>Channel 250, wait for full image, press yellow button, move channel down one, then back to 250, wait for full image to appear, press green button which gives you access to options: press green for Test card.

[Anonymous No.5115421]

>>5114627
As a guess I think it has something to do with the impedance levels of your RGB signal. If you feed raw arcade RGB levels to a computer monitor you'll have a too bright image. If you feed raw console RGB to a modded RGB tv you'll have a ????

[Anonymous No.5115428]

>>5115421
As an anecdote I'll mention that on my AM-3501R the RGB from my PC was "dull" compared to the S-video and Composite inputs. Looking back I think the monitor expected a slightly different signal than I was feeding it. Not enough to make the difference that games looked bad, but enough it was easily noticed if I flipped between inputs.

[Anonymous No.5115450]

>>5115428
>>5115421
What do I recommend I do then? I’ve followed the directions in the video to the letter andan even trying to get in touch with David’s consultant via a shmup forum but they apparently have some sort of post review system setup and my post hasn’t been approved yet. Here’s a link to more some in-depth info: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63425

It’s worth pointing out that iirc the layout in my tv was slightly different from the one in the video but everything was still labeled the same and in the correct spots.

[Anonymous No.5115792]

>>5114474
That happened with his too. Look through the comments someone mentions how to fix it

[Anonymous No.5115837]

>>5115792
Thanks!!!!!!

David mentioned in one of the replies that the problem was caused by, surprise, incorrect resistor values.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5115845]

>>5115837
Which values ended up being proper?

[Anonymous No.5115868]

>>5115845
He hasn't responded yet, but I'll certainly post them when or if he does.

[Anonymous No.5115930]

Bang and Olufsen CRT are also very good and somewhat underrated since they're scarce (Europe mainly) so not many people are aware of their existence

[Anonymous No.5116147]

>>5111221
Is it even worth RGB modding then rather than getting one with a component input and using a transcoder?

[Anonymous No.5116152]

>>5114423
>only has RF
From what I understand, doing an RGB mod is a lot more complex when the TV is RF-only. This is because normally you can use the composite line for sending a sync signal. If you only have RF input, then you basically have to do a ton of extra work to get composite and THEN mod in RGB and use the composite from your other part of the mod for sync. It's much simpler to use a TV with composite.

But then again, you say it's a VCR/DVD combo machine, so perhaps there's internal composite from the VCR aspect. IDK.

[Anonymous No.5116164]

>>5102038
Anyone here regular the shmups forum? My posts are apparently pending approval and an entire day has passed already.

[Anonymous No.5116180]

>>5115868
Just looking at the video, he used three 75 ohm resistors.

[Anonymous No.5116185]

>>5116147
If all you want to do is play good looking vidya then the rational choice is to just find a component tv.

Component is 99% as good as RGB.

[Anonymous No.5116186]

>/vr/ tells me to just check craigslist for a CRT
>Email guy about free 27 inch JVC CRT he's giving away
>Says someone is suppose to pick it up tomorrow & that I'm out of luck, but if he doesn't pick it up he'll contact me
>The other guy actually didn't show up
>Guy with the TV lived literally a few blocks away
>Even came with the remote
I cannot believe how simple this was & how close I was living to someone who would just GIVE me a CRT like that. It's a av-27f802 from 2001. I can't find a single eBay listing for it, so I'm assuming it's uncommon?

[Anonymous No.5116187]

>>5116180
So did I, but he said he did some tweaking not mentioned or shown in the video.

[Anonymous No.5116192]

>>5116186
wow a JVC I'Art, holy grail of televisions

[Anonymous No.5116198]

>>5116186
oh & get this, it does S-Video AND Component! He had it outside for awhile so I'm waiting for it to warm up for a few hours before turning it on, but if it works then this is going to be the main TV for DVDs & VHS tapes for the household. I cannot believe the other guy never picked it up.
>>5116192
>Holy Grail
I mean, it has Component which is great (it's no RGB but hey it's free). What makes it a "holy grail" CRT?

[Anonymous No.5116263]

>>5115845
>>5115868
Well turns out he didn't adjust it further and decided to just deal with the colors and brightness instead of replacing the resistors over and over until the colors are correct. So looks like I was right here >>5114596

[Anonymous No.5116279]

/vr/, what would be the best options to extend S-Video inputs on a TV that only has one? It's a great 29" Trinitron, even has 2 component inputs, but only one 1 S video and I use those a lot.

[Anonymous No.5116284]

>>5116263
Actually couldn't three potentiometers installed on the R, G, and B lines make it significantly easier to adjust? I'm not an expert in electronics so I'm not sure if potentiometers can replace resistors.

[Anonymous No.5116304]

>>5116279
Just get a decent switcher box.

[Anonymous No.5116306]

>>5116279
Cheapo mechanical switch box works fine, like this https://www.amazon.com/GE-33622-Switch-S-Video-Devices/dp/B071G52TB8

[Anonymous No.5116308]

>>5116284
sure, using pots can be great to figure out sensible values when you don't have full data/measurements available

[Anonymous No.5116312]

>>5116186
does anyone know how many TV lines this specific model is? I can't find any info on line count in any of the official manuals I've downloaded.

[Anonymous No.5116315]

>>5116312
Information like that isn't always published for consumer sets.

[Anonymous No.5116316]

>>5116306
>>5116304
That's what I was thinking, but isn't there quality loss?

[Anonymous No.5116319]

>>5116315
any idea on how I would find that info then? I can eyeballl it obviously, but an official number would be great.

[Anonymous No.5116321]

>>5116198
Component is pretty much equivalent to RGB

[Anonymous No.5116340]

>>5116316
There was a thread on here maybe about a month ago where an anon tried a handful of different boxes. I don't remember all of the brands he tested exactly, but i remember a pelican branded one like pic related being one of the better ones. Basically, stay away from cheap non-labeled chinese shit and you should be fine.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5116348]

>>5116263
Honestly can't remember which settings it has for the life of me, but that model does have a service menu that you might be able to futz around inside of to fix or at least bandaid the issue a bit.

[Anonymous No.5116409]

>>5116319
3 to 400 range
t. my ass

[Anonymous No.5116414]

>>5116340
I had one of those. Great device. Got rid of it when I got a receiver.

[Anonymous No.5116423]

>>5116409
Just tested it in component & that sounds about right. There's no way it's more than 400 lines. It's not nearly as sharp as I was hoping. Anyone know how I can adjust H & V on this thing? I get a big black bar at the bottom of chrono cross.

[Anonymous No.5116449]

>>5116423
you can use a test chart to measure if you've got some way to send a nice high res signal to it preferably a PC

[Anonymous No.5116479]

>>5116449
Would a PS3 be able to send it a proper image? Still really hoping I can find a service menu in this thing. It looks like it's set to DVD player size since I get no underscan when using one.

[Anonymous No.5116483]

>>5116479
& here's some anime running on it from my PS3. I wonder if this model has a Jungle Chip in it so I could get RGB from it?

[Anonymous No.5116493]

>>5102706
I got one from a friend in college who had one as CRTs went out. Then he bought it back. Then I bought it back for my parents basement when our old CRT went out. Then they got an LED flatscreen and I asked them to keep it for old games. That Duck Hunt didn't work on new TVs might have sold my dad on keeping it.

[Anonymous No.5116517]

>>5116483
dude, component is mathematically identical to rgb in terms of image quality. any mod you do to add rgb in will be lower quality than transcoding an rgb signal to component and plugging that into the tv

[Anonymous No.5116582]

>>5116479
Sure, use the image, or look for a rip of a test DVD

[Anonymous No.5116972]

>>5116186
that's pretty much the same thing as a 29" arcade monitor like you'd find in a Sega Astro City or other Japanese cab

29" component TVs are not rare, but you're pretty lucky to come across a JVC unit

[Anonymous No.5116976]

>>5116312
It's probably around 500, don't worry about it.

[Anonymous No.5117023]

what would cause the image on a CRT to shake in 240p mode? The OSD/menu doesn't shake at all, but text boxes on my RPGs on the bottom half shake pretty noticeably. Much harder to tell in 480i, but does that sound like a Capacitor issue? Tried switching between two models of the PS2, & went from third party component cables to official S-Video cables & the screen still shakes in the same lower half of the screen o matter what model or cable I use.

[Anonymous No.5117030]

>>5117023
Adding onto this, how would I go about building a capacitor list & ordering every cap I would need to replace them myself in the event that it is a capacitor problem? I could use a hobby on the side, & recapping a CRT might be fun if I can do it in small steps so I don't shock myself.

[Anonymous No.5117098]

I just spent €2 for this. Did I get ripped off?

[Anonymous No.5117137]

Which is better KV-27fv15 or KV-24fs120
Fv is supposedly the higher end series but was made a few years earlier, no component but has svideo
Fs is the standard series but is newer and has component and a video
One is at goodwill other is a few miles on craigslist

[Anonymous No.5117270]

>>5117030
If you can dig up an official service manual for the thing(or a PDF of one), having one of those can help because they list every single part. However, I don't think they list the quantity of each part, so your best bet is to remove all the capacitors and document each one as you do(you need to write down the capacitance and resistivity, and it makes it easier later if you write down the lead spacing so you can match those as well), and use the service manual to double-check that the things you wrote down are accurate and that you didn't miss anything.

[Anonymous No.5117292]

>>5116423
Yeah judging by the dot pitch it looks to be somewhere between 400 and 500 tvl, standard SD TV resolution really.

That said (and it could be just your pic being overexposed) the contrast appears to be set way too high. This will cause significant blooming of the highlights and lower lower the effective sharpness, as well as decreasing life of the phosphors.

[Anonymous No.5117293]

Not related directly to CRTs, but what kind of soldering gun would /vr/ recommend for working on old circuit boards? ?

[Anonymous No.5117320]

>>5117293
936d is cheap and decent.

[Anonymous No.5117342]

>>5117293
I like the Metcal mx-500p-11. Pic related

[Anonymous No.5117359]

>>5117270
>write down the capacitance and resistivity
Is that always written on every capacitor on a CRT?

[Anonymous No.5117381]

>>5116186
>I cannot believe how simple this was & how close I was living to someone who would just GIVE me a CRT like that.
Far more common than you think. Any given week I have a pick of around 5 decent CRT tvs, mostly sony/panasonic in the 27" or 32" range. People hate them and see no value. They are usually free but some people charge like $15. There are still millions of good CRTs out there gathering dust in garages all over north America.

[Anonymous No.5117496]

>>5117381
>>5116186
I see a crt on the sidewalk practically every time I go for a walk for longer than 15 minutes. Free stuff on Craigslist also consistently offers decent crts on a weekly basis. Larger units are such a pain in the ass to move that people will just give them away to anyone willing to put the work into taking them. Plus, let's be honest, they're pretty useless to anyone not using them for gaming or stricken by severe autism.

[Anonymous No.5117513]

>>5117496
The only reason they are slow to emerge is that normies are packrats and still think CRTs have value so they put them in long term storage. They paid a lot for them back in the day and are reluctant to admit they lost all value. Eventually they get annoyed at how much space they use and they end up free to a good home (which means a retro gamer gets lucky).

[Anonymous No.5117515]

>>5116186
Bruh, why the fuck are you even looking at ebay at all for consumer CRTs? Just look at craigslist or similar site and you'll see a fuckton of people begging someone to haul away their early-2000s trinitrons and other high-quality CRT TVs for free. Hell, you can probably just take a drive around town on whatever day your city's trash does special pickups and you'll probably see CRTs lying around waiting to be snatched up.

Don't be that guy who unironically pays for a consumer CRT. That's what the overzealous redditfags do and if they continue doing it, it will actually cause people to start demanding money for them.

[Anonymous No.5117519]

>>5117359
It's pretty standard for it to be written on any capacitor anywhere, here's a picture i took inside one of my 9-inch Ikegamis, you can see where the capacitor I was looking at is marked with its capacitance and resistivity.

[Anonymous No.5117529]

>>5117519
Different guy with a completely off topic question but, do you know of a way to find the specs for a potentiometer that has no markings on it?

[Anonymous No.5117532]

>>5116198
>it's no RGB but hey it's free
Component and RGB are equivalent in terms of quality. It's only ever just a matter of what a console outputs and what the TV accepts. I recommend picking up a transcoder. That way you can just plug RGB SCART cables from older consoles in, get component video out that can be used on plenty of American TVs. That's the best and most reasonable option for most people IMO, because the next step after that for better quality is a PVM which have sadly become a fad and you'd be spending half a grand or more to get a decent sized one for a game room. Unless you're okay with only having something 9"-13", which will still cost you a couple hundred anyway. Not worth it.

[Anonymous No.5117542]

>>5117519
>capacitance and resistivity
Sorry, I goofed, I meant capacitance and potential difference. Different capacitors of the same capacitance and potential difference can also have varied ripple currents, higher is better, but you shouldn't have to go overboard with this, most capacitors from good manufacturers should be fine.

>>5117529
The service manual is your best bet. Find the section with photographs of the board, which should have every part labeled, and then find that part number in the parts listing section and all the information about the part should be there.

[Anonymous No.5117590]

>>5117513
Nah, that's not true for normalfags. Maybe a small minority of boomers. Most people just want them gone completely and will think you're crazy for ever wanting one again. The only reason they're not all completely gone is that some people still have spare bedrooms/basements/whatever other low-priority rooms in the house with old tube TVs that they've been slow to upgrade. And also people just not bothering to throw them away because they're so big and heavy that it's not worth the effort of moving on their own.

This is why you often see CRTs being given away for free on the larger end of the spectrum. The 27-36" sets. ie, the larger ones that are harder to move. They were already able to get rid of the ones they had that were 24" and smaller on their own.

>>5117496
same here.

[Anonymous No.5117613]

>>5116517

Yes and no. Just because it is mathematically equivalent doesn't mean real world results are.
Keep in mind in analog every step in the video chain certainly affects the picture quality. Whether it is noticeable to the naked eye or an oscilloscope would depend upon the chassis components.

Now whether this is a big improvement or not depends upon what components are in route before going to the guns.

From what I've seen it is a minor upgrade if the set has component. Im sure there are sets out there where it is a massive improvement and others where it is minor or not even noticeable.

Definitely worth it if the tv has composite or s-video and the set has good geometry and controls.

[Anonymous No.5117614]

>>5117098
Philips sets are pretty good. Since you're European, you should use RGB on that, because it looks pretty nice on a 14-inch Philips.

[Anonymous No.5117620]

>>5117614
Thank God for the SCART port. But yeah, I'll have to get a bunch of new cables so I don't have to use these component to scart converters.

[Anonymous No.5117659]

>>5102038
I have Toshiba TV/VCR combo, made in 2001. Wish I knew the proper model number. But is this a good one? I think it looks a bit shit. Found in my dads basement.

[Anonymous No.5117671]

>>5117098
You can't get ripped off for €2. Even if it was broken:

[Anonymous No.5117780]

how do these look?

these are from my 36 inch jvc i'art

[Anonymous No.5117787]

>>5117780

[Anonymous No.5117806]

>>5114423

The proper way is to look in the service manual. I'd guess it's either under that board, or on one of the lower boards. It has to have something if there is an OSD, but it may be component signal instead of RGB. I've noticed that a lot of combo units or newer CRT have component signals and lack RGB. Post a link to your service manual and I'll look at it, though I'm not any kind of expert.

[Anonymous No.5117826]

>>5114423
I'm >>5117806

Holy shit dude, this thing is a confusing beast. Honestly on the "micon schematic diagram" IC101 chip it looks like it has R G B input on pins 61, 62, 63, IDK what blanking is, but good god this think looks complicated AF. I'd say it's an expert tier mod, not easy but doable. I'd honestly ask at the shmup thread because there's a lot more knowledgeable people there. I've done 2 fairly easy mods but this thing looks ridiculously convoluted.

[Anonymous No.5117830]

>>5115450
>they apparently have some sort of post review system setup and my post hasn’t been approved yet.

Same thing here. I did an introduction post in the introduction thread, it was approved and then I could post elsewhere.

[Anonymous No.5117894]

>>5117802

someone help the man

[Anonymous No.5117902]

>>5117894
I've played that game on my CRT and it looks fine to me

[Anonymous No.5118002]

how hard would it be to RGB mod this?

[Anonymous No.5118016]

>>5118002
That's a VGA CRT anon. You're not bandwagoning are you?
It takes RGB natively, but cannot display consoles natively without converting the standard definition signal somehow.

[Anonymous No.5118018]

>>5118002
VGA is RGB.

[Anonymous No.5118067]

>>5118016
>>5118018
I wanna give it scart.

[Anonymous No.5118069]

>>5118067
You'd need a line-doubler like an OSSC and then a hdmi-> VGA converter. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.5118121]

>>5118069
Sounds like an opportunity for lag tho

[Anonymous No.5118125]

>>5118121
Unless you get a really shitty cheap converter none whatsoever. That said, in your case I'd just use it to emulate games at 480p60Hz. Excellent scaling and scrolling and the least input lag you can get with an emulator setup, given care is taken to use a low lag controller and the best emulators.

[Anonymous No.5118208]

>>5116284
that sounds like a good plan
looks like there's too much blue so maybe just one pot on the blue line to dial it in

[Anonymous No.5118240]

>>5118016
all I want to know is if I can connect my Super NT to it

[Anonymous No.5118251]

What's happened to me

[Anonymous No.5118263]

>>5118251

[Anonymous No.5118267]

>>5118251
>>5118263
Hah, no matter what I do my fucking pictures always post facing the wrong direction.

[Anonymous No.5118270]

>>5118251
you've got a bad case of GAS
(gear acquisition syndrome)

[Anonymous No.5118284]

>>5118251
Fell hard for a leddit meme.

[Anonymous No.5118289]

>>5118251
You're let your 'tism overtake you.

Leave some for the next guy.

>inb4 but muh scalpers
poor rationalization, leave them

[Anonymous No.5118292]

>>5118067
Just get a transcoder. You get RGBS from SCART. You get RGBHV (horizontal and vertical sync separately) from VGA. You can convert your RGB SCART signal to VGA without any loss in quality. All you're doing is splitting the sync.

[Anonymous No.5118316]

>>5118289
>>5118284
>>5118270
It all happened within weeks. I'm going to unload a couple soon. Im less than $200 in so far. Going to keep the 2030 and the two stacked guys

[Anonymous No.5118334]

>>5118292
transcoder will still have 15kHz, VGA monitor can't handle that. Would need a scaler.

[Anonymous No.5118441]

>>5102209
>That being said, I'm going to go out on a limb and predict that a couple of start-up companies will start making professional CRTs within a decade's time once the supply gets low enough.

stop this meme. it's like 90s era freon, it's never coming back because it's illegal. 90% of the crt herd has been culled and anyone that cares will need to pay a premium in the future to get good ones. I hate it but that''s just the way it's going.

[Anonymous No.5118463]

Anyone here done cap replacements on their CRT? I think mine needs it.

[Anonymous No.5118492]

>>5117780
>>5117787
looks good to me

[Anonymous No.5118498]

>>5118316
How on earth did you get a 2030 and four other decent-looking 14"+ monitors for less than $200 in a matter of weeks?
What are you selling and where do you live? Might be interested.

[Anonymous No.5118509]

>>5118463
Yes, it's extremely easy if you have experience soldering.

[Anonymous No.5118512]

>>5108039
if you're going to go with xbox/wii component , just go with a good flatscreen. xbox/wii had 16:9 for most games and some you can patch to be 16:9 with higher resolutions for the xbox. Just played through gta III and splinter cell and they looked great on a flat screen. PS2 is honestly 50/50 on crt vs flat screen. It's going to be interesting seeing the crt memers on the gen 6 board if we ever get one

[Anonymous No.5118517]

>>5118498
I've posted in thes threads before. I've mostly been lucky to be in LA. The 15" JVC is the nicest one and I got it for free,750tvl and scart card. The one under it isnt great at 500tvl and no rgb but it's gets the most use by virtue of being the first one I got. I traded some lighting equipment I had for it.
The guy I got the my last three from has a couple of warehouses full of a/v gear. He said he has 50 10" JVC he'd sell me. He offered me one on its own for $20 but said he'd sell me a bunch for cheaper.
The first to go will be the pvm-1910, it's not great but one of the more aesthetically cool sets I've seen.

[Anonymous No.5118525]

>>5117780
I swear those JVC I'arts are RGB modable. There's an RGB option in the OSD & everything. I wonder what the insides of one look like.

[Anonymous No.5118527]

>>5117826
Figures. It even has an SD card port in the front for what I can assume is for pulling up JPEG Photos or something. 2005 they were really complicating the shit out of things.

[Anonymous No.5118537]

Help me.
CRT display shakes every few minutes.
Is it:
>Bad caps

[Anonymous No.5118557]

>>5118509
I'm a retard so no. I have a busted set with other issues I can't fix to practice on though, so I don't ruin my good one if I mess up.

[Anonymous No.5118569]

>>5118537
Maybe. Can you get video/pics of it happening?

[Anonymous No.5118673]

>>5118002
ya'll know this was a shitpost rite

[Anonymous No.5118687]

>>5118492
thank you, I appreciate that. I just wanted to see what people had to say. from my irl perspective I think it looks very nice for a tv that cost less than 3 gallons of gas where I live.


>>5118525
I have never taken this TV apart. I am interested in RGB, but I'm such shit at soldering I'm sure I would make a mess of it.
The idea of modding it sounds cool but I definitely need better understanding or someone else's help on that one.

[Anonymous No.5118773]

>>5118525
if it has component, I wouldn't bother.

[Anonymous No.5118787]

>>5118557
>If I mess up
No offense but you probably will. Still though I'm sure you'll try it, in which case there are some things you should know: number one is ALWAYS USE FLUX WHEN SOLDERING. Number two is don't jab the soldering iron and hold it against a pad and the board for extended periods of time because that's how you destroy the pads and potentially even components. Number three is capacitors are polarity sensitive, if you install them backwards they WILL pop. All capacitors have a black stripe on them and this is the NEGATIVE side, line it up to the board which will almost always mark either the negative or positive terminal holes. Number four is discharge your CRT and beware of big capacitors which may have residual charge left in them, as both these things can kill you. To discharge said capacitors simply bridge the legs until they no longer spark. Number five is get a QUALITY desoldering pump or wick, as this will minimize the amount of time you have to keep the hot iron on the board.

[Anonymous No.5118794]

>>5118787
Sounds like a lot of trouble and a lot of learning I'm gonna have to do but oh well. All the sets are old and need maintenance, small price to pay to keep playing on the beautiful things.

[Anonymous No.5118814]

>>5118794
It's really not that hard to do but I would definitely advise you to NOT try soldering out for the first time on something like a CRT. Start small, solder a few resistors to your NES to give it expanded audio, add some wires here and there, buy a soldering practice kit, practice desoldering, etc etc. Trust me when I say that one mistake can trash the entire board and while it's honestly a bit of a meme that "CRTS ARE SUPER DANGEROUS THEY *WILL* KILL YOU!!!!1!" it's not entirely false.

[Anonymous No.5118819]

>>5118687
Modding a component TV to RGB is retarded.

fucking RGB autism is maddening

[Anonymous No.5118852]

>>5118819
>RGB autism is maddening
so is capacitor autism. somebody else went on a rant about it last night but it's been bothering me too.
these people don't know anything and they want to open up a CRT and use it as their first project
I should start selling cap kits to these retards

[Anonymous No.5118859]

>>5118852
plus, small capacitors going bad is what most of these crt pots are designed to compensate for. Nigger, just adjust the pots

[Anonymous No.5118860]

>>5118852
>>5118859
I’ve ressurected dead analog/logic boards and corrected major issues in countless devices by recapping. It’s overblown certainly but definitely not just a meme.

[Anonymous No.5119082]

>>5102038
Fuck the sun light destroyed my crt I guess. Black spots everywhere and I can't even access the service menu anymore. FML

[Anonymous No.5119146]

>>5118819
It's certainly a cool trick for hobbyist tinkerers, but yeah, it shouldn't be someone's first solder job unless they have a death wish, and it's so much easier to find a component TV and buy a transcoder instead. Only reason I would ever do an RGB mod is if I wanted a PVM, didn't want to pay the absurd meme prices, and bought one of the cheap ones that are composite/s-video only. But even then I'm not sure if it's even possible to RGB mod those PVM models, because their OSDs are in black and white.

To be fair, there is a SLIGHT loss of picture quality with the transcoder I've used, which I've compared by having my PVM and trinitron wega side by side daisy chained and with a transcoder. For example, slightly different looking borders on the edges of the palm trees in Sanic Green Hill Zone. But I'm certain this is just from using a low end generic transcoder that cost me like 40 bucks and I could probably fix it by messing with the pots.

[Anonymous No.5119153]

>>5119146
As far as I can tell the lower tier pvms are exactly the same as the rgb ready models but missing the bncs on the rear panel and with a resistor that needs to be removed. Otherwise, all of the boards are the same.

[Anonymous No.5119169]

>>5119153
How would you switch over to the new signal though?

[Anonymous No.5119221]

>>5117620
Composite* my bad

[Anonymous No.5119230]

>>5119169
Ah, I forgot it needs a switch too. There is also a hole already cut out on the front panel where the switch goes on the rgb models. There's just a sticker over it as the is over the holes for bncs on the back.

[Anonymous No.5119232]

>>5103560
if you try working on CRT's blindly without knowing how to discharge it prior then you fucking deserve to be put into a hospital

[Anonymous No.5119236]

Is the voltage line even necessary on SCART cables? From what I understand it's just some way that europoor TVs know to automatically switch to a signal, but it seems utterly pointless if you're going to a PVM or upscaler

Also, anyone know of a good tutorial on making your own cables?

[Anonymous No.5119242]

>>5113796
jesus that's some severe burn in, you can see it in the display while it's off

[Anonymous No.5119243]

>>5119230
wew, really? I might actually pick up one of those lower-end PVMemes just to dabble with this if it's legit. If all you actually need to do is more or less punch out the plastic holes where the connectors are supposed to be and attach the wires/resistors/caps to the line

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5119280]

>>5119153
That all depends on the specific model. Something like the N-Series sets are missing quite a large number of components on the S-Video limited sets versus the RGB sister sets.
Then you have something like the **50 series sets where there are models which have RGB but no Component, but can have it enabled with just a setting in the service menu.

>>5119236
It can be useful if you have a sync stripper in the BNC breakout, as that's where it gets it's power. If you're not doing any sync stripping or anything along those lines, you can ignore it.

[Anonymous No.5119284]

Working on a CRT feels like this 100% of the time.
https://youtu.be/vFEe_jjYGYc

[Anonymous No.5119298]

So these JVC RGB cards....could one of these be used in a JVC I'art? Sory if that's an incredibly stupid question, but I just opened my I'art from earlier in the stread to see if I could eyeball a jungle chip or any leaking caps (did find the chips), & there's a card on the left hand side that feeds into the back that looks suspiciously like it would work with one of these things.

[Anonymous No.5119327]

>>5119298
My gut says no, but at the very least you could pull the card and compare connectors to see if they're at least physically the same. Is the card in your TV have a 50 pin connector? Even if it does, that doesn't ensure compatibility ; but if it doesn't you know definitively that it won't work

[Anonymous No.5119347]

>>5119327
My gut says maybe, but I'm a novice at this sort of thing. It's going to be a pain to take the casing off again, but if I take some pictures of the inside would you be able to tell? I remember seeing something that looked like an IDE connector inside. For comparison's sake, what does a stock (non aftermarket) version of the eBay card I posted look like?

[Anonymous No.5119363]

>>5119347
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/244451-REG/JVC_IFC01COMG_IF_C01COMG_Component_Video_RGB_Input.html

[Anonymous No.5119394]

>>5119298
>>5119347
Don't bother looking into this any further, it won't work.

Just get an RGB to YPbPr transcoder.

[Anonymous No.5119474]

>>5119284
Maybe your first time.

[Anonymous No.5119475]

>>5119394
This. Only caveat with the transcoders is that they seem to come with shit-tier power supplies that cause interference with the video signal. Swap it out for a different power supply and the problem gets fixed right up

[Anonymous No.5119598]

New thread when?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5119601]

>>5119598
I could make one now, but it's not really needed until it drops a few more pages.

[Anonymous No.5119836]

>>5119394
>Just get an RGB to YPbPr transcoder
Isn't Mike Chi from retrotink working on something like this?

[Anonymous No.5119848]

dumb question but i can't seem to find the answer anywhere.
will the sony gdm-fw900 work on 4th-6th gen consoles?
i'm talking to someone locally about getting one but he doesnt know the answer nor does he have a way of testing. i'm hoping it'll be a onestop solution for my pc and consoles but i'm just not sure if the monitor would accept the console signals

[Anonymous No.5119878]

>>5119848
It won't work with 4th gen at all.

Dreamcast, Xbox and some PS2 titles are the best you can hope for without employing an upscaler.

[Anonymous No.5119895]

>>5118819
whatever, I've never seen anything run on RGB in real life.

I think you jumping down my throat for even replying to a post about rgb modding is the most maddening thing happening here.
how is it retarded to add an extra input to a tv no matter what it is? if it helps me learn more about electronics and even improves my picture 0.01 percent, then what's the freaking problem?

>ppl talk about something I dont like so its autistic

you are stupid

[Anonymous No.5119897]

>>5119878
og Xbox still needs some adapter and/or a modded bios.
PS2 is a clusterfuck because everything starts in 480i.
DC, 360 do support VGA with the appropriate cable (I think some rare DC titles do not work with VGA ?)

[Anonymous No.5120014]

>>5119848
It only supports RGBHV fyi. That's the signal 'VGA' uses, so you need a 480p VGA output. You're shit outta luck without a line doubler or something unfortunately. 360 supports this brilliantly. PS3 can with a modded cable I think.

[Anonymous No.5120171]

>>5119897
> (I think some rare DC titles do not work with VGA ?)
Correct, but most of the modern releases of burnable images around these days have edited these games to boot in 480p too.

[Anonymous No.5120568]

>>5120014
retrotink or ossc should work I think right?

[Anonymous No.5120691]

>>5120014
FW900 also supports RGBS and RGsB, not just RGBHV

[Anonymous No.5120742]

reminder that this exists (maybe)

[Anonymous No.5120786]

>>5119895
stop trolling

[Anonymous No.5120801]

So how hard would it be anyway to convert a CVM into a PVM?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.5120858]

New Thread:

>>5120856
>>5120856

>>5120801
Would be difficult to say without knowing the specific set. Some CVMs seem to be based on televisions, where others look to be based on PVMs.

When in doubt, hit up a service manual.

[Anonymous No.5120992]

>>5120742
>sounds like a good minimalist device, just transcodes with no scaling
>but dude what if we add scanlines
every time

[Anonymous No.5121005]

>>5117359

Yes, they have capacitance and voltage tolerance marked on them. Capacitance value should not be changed unless you know what you're doing, but anything of the same voltage tolerance or higher is fine. Size will often increase too though.

[Anonymous No.5121020]

Remember, bigger = better. Don't settle for sissy 20" and under CRTs even if they have better video signal support.

[Anonymous No.5121351]

>>5121020
>not having both

I have a 20" PVM next to a 32" trinitron with the composite, s-video, and component connections daisy-chained.