Repair General

[Anonymous No.3877398]

Didn't see one in the catalog, so here we go!

Ive got both a NES console, and xmen 2 on genesis, and they both have pin issues.

NES: Two of the cart slot pins on the main board have huge gouges on them, and make for poor contacts. I dont know the type of metal, but they don't look like copper.

XMEN2: Has one pin that is essentially 'squished' and is kind of bunched together on its self. They are copper pins

I cant really find any good youtube videos of people removing pins(on just one side). this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx50YtEC2S8 has a good part about replacing a solder pad, but i dont konw if it will work for a 'pin'. Anyone have any knowledge/resources on pin replacements.

Also general repair for anyone to ask/answer q's.

[Anonymous No.3877431]

>>3877398
If its a toaster then solder a jumper wire from the main board to the 72 pin connector.

I don't think there's a satisfactory way to fix a cart with broken edge connectors.

[Anonymous No.3877610]

>>3877431
shit, good point about NES pin. simply brilliant.

There is a way for the cart.. right when i posted that link I saw a few how-tos to fix 'pads' but it requires a kit thats about $20, or more. hoping for a cheaper solution, but it is what it is

[Anonymous No.3877629]

>>3877431
>>3877610
You could get a cheap game that uses the same PCB and transplant the rom.

[Anonymous No.3878038]

>>3877431

Yes. You could also...

>>3877629

...Well. They got to it before I did

[Anonymous No.3878390]

>>3877398
You'll probably do best to fix the pin instead of replacing it. You just need to straighten it out and glue it down. There are special types of glue for this but any sort of epoxy should do. Test it on an unused part of the board first if you're not sure.

>>3877610
Fixing an edge connector isn't quite the same as fixing a pad. Pads don't regularly get put under any type of stress. An edge connector will. I've seen people use stuff with a shitty adhesive only to have it peel off inside the connector the first time they remove the cart.

[Anonymous No.3879438]

I don't know if controllers count, but I need help with my SNES controller. I am very sensitive to controller feel, so I bought some conductive pads. The buttons are much more responsive, but when i press down it also goes right most of the time. What can I do to make the controller not do this?

[Anonymous No.3879479]

>>3879438

Clean it. Hopefully that would solve the issue...if not, someone more knowledgeable will hop on and tell you which components to tinker with

[Anonymous No.3879496]

>>3879479
Both the pad and the controller are pretty clean, but I'll go ahead and try it again. Thanks

[Anonymous No.3879593]

>>3879438

There could be a millimeter difference on one side of the rubber or on the dpad rocker that causing an easy push. take a real close look when you take it apart. Also compare it with old rubber if you kept it.

[Anonymous No.3879790]

I guess not really repair but it's the closest thing to repair and probably doesn't really need to be its own thread.

I have an extra 64 doing nothing that I want to paint and modify the LED. Only problem is I have minimal experience in painting, taking things apart and modifying them.

What would be the best way to prepare for it? What should I practice on?

[Anonymous No.3879794]

>>3879790
The LED is quite simple. Usually you can swap them out with something else but some times there's a resistor hooked up to it for that specific color.

As far as painting, you should find a place to hang some wire, usually outside and spray paint the two shells while they're hanging in the air. Cover up any bits you don't want to get paint on with painters tape.

[Anonymous No.3879805]

>>3879794
Read over a lot of guides, none mentioned the wire thing, but that's a really good idea-

Going to be awhile until I can start anyway. Gonna order the screwdriver bit that Nintendo uses for their stuff. Heard you can make a makeshift version with a pen but that seems a bit iffy.

Just kinda afraid of screwing something up somehow I guess.

[Anonymous No.3879813]

>>3879805
Well, the N64 isn't exactly a friendly system to strip down for a starter. You have a ton of screws in the massive shared heat sync that can get stuck and strip pretty easily.

I'd recommend a SNES to tear down and all that. It's the perfect starter system.

Also, be sure to take pictures of the entire process encase you need them

[Anonymous No.3879960]

>>3879794
Wrong and wrong.
A resistor would change the current and maybe the intensity of a LED. Not the color.

Hanging something with wet paint outside is retarded. Every bit of shit blowing around will stick to it.

[Anonymous No.3879963]

>>3879960
>A resistor would change the current and maybe the intensity of a LED. Not the color.
Different color leds have different forward voltages and therefore need different values of a series resistor if you aim for a certain value of the current.

[Anonymous No.3882628]

Is there any way to partially test a console without any games? I have a DMM and other possibly useful tools. The console in question is an Atari 2600

[Anonymous No.3882810]

>>3882628
There is. But it doesn't matter what tools you have. If you lack the skills to use them they're useless. Invest $0.50 in combat.

[Anonymous No.3882878]

>buy some NES controllers
>diagonals no longer work
>buy new rubber pads from Amazon to replace internal ones
>diagonals work now, but they're too stiff and buttons sometimes sink down longer than normal

Is there no winning?

[Anonymous No.3882943]

Alright fellas, I'm have a bit of a predicament involving my PC-Engine. It's been working fine for years, though now that I play it for the first time in what has probably been a few months, there are now some graphical errors and glitches present in every game I have tried. I'm hoping it might just be a contact connection issue, but I've tried cleaning everything and it's still faulty. What I fear is that there's something wrong(electrically) with the unit itself. All of my connections are secure, and the TV plays SNES, and several other games fine so by process of elimination, I assume it must be the console. It is modded to support output of both JP and US titles via switch, and it is also fitted with an S-Video out and composite audio. I will post a few pics and possibly webms for a detailed look of what is going on, and hopefully someone might be able to let me know if its maybe a bad cap or something worse. Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.3882947]

>>3882943

[Anonymous No.3882954]

>>3882947

[Anonymous No.3882965]

>>3882943
>>3882947
>>3882954
One more of Soldier Blade. It appears to effect every sprite by cutting them away from where they're meant to be. I don't know the technical side of it in the least, but I've seen similar behavior from other systems when they aren't contacting properly. That's what I'm hoping. I don't want a tough fix. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.3882997]

>>3882943
I had this same issue with an SNES at work.
most likely an issue with the graphics chip but who knows. it could really be anything.
if you are able to, i would attempt to exchange the chip with a nother one

[Anonymous No.3883031]

>>3882997
I take it that will likely require a donor console, yes?

[Anonymous No.3883032]

>>3883031
or if you are lucky replacement parts on the internet

[Anonymous No.3883106]

>>3883032
What sort of soldering skill level should I have.. Because I can solder, but I have very little faith in myself.

[Anonymous No.3883276]

>>3882943
Probably a RAM problem. Crack it open and check. Could be a dry connection or a literal bug. Clean and reflow both chips and see if that fixes it. If not, do the same with the VDC. If it's still not working you're going to have to replace something. Probably best to replace the console if it's just a core 1/2.

[Anonymous No.3883403]

when i replace the battery inside a SNES cartridge, do i need to replace the tabs that hold the battery too? I made a thread about a DKC3 that refused to save, and after many tests and reading here and there, the problem seems to be that the tabs arent powering the capacitors after the console is turned off and the energy fades away, so the saves only last 20-30 mins.

[Anonymous No.3883812]

>>3883403

well fuck me, i changed the tabs and now it saves. Fucking hell. At least it works now.

[Anonymous No.3885680]

My genesis model 1's headphone jack buzzes and pops. Q-tips are too damn fat to fit inside to physically clean the jack. What do you recommend using?

[Anonymous No.3886017]

So I tried playing some games on my Sega CDX and I saved, but after returning after an hour or so the save was gone.

Is tehre an internal battery in the CDX? Should I just look at getting a rampack?

[Anonymous No.3886034]

>>3885680
Break the tip off of a toothpick and wrap a kleenex around it.

[Anonymous No.3886041]

Ok guys, which screen is better; the ags101 sp or a DS lite? I'm already using my dstwo flash card for GBC and GBA emulation, but I'm really tempted to backlight mod my Pokemon themed GBC.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3886197]

>>3886041
>backlight
GBCs can only use frontlights unless you go for the full screen replacement that's come about recently.

[Anonymous No.3886769]

How easy is it to buy untested shit online and then troubleshoot any repairs it may need?

[Anonymous No.3886818]

>>3886769

Depends on what you're purchasing. Different equipment can have many different issues; repairing an untested crt can kill you

[Anonymous No.3886892]

>>3886818
Not a crt, more along the lines of a fami+fcd

[Anonymous No.3886968]

>an old copy of ninja gaiden I had never worked
>tried to fix it a long time ago when I was new to electronics repair
>opened it by drilling out the screws because I figured it was dead anyway. couldn't fix it.
>after getting actual experience repairing, I try again 5 years later
>had to repair 10 traces coming from the pins because they corroded away due to mystery bullshit
>it actually works

It's held together with tape and the pin side of the board looks like the apocalypse, but now I can finally play ninja gaiden.

[Anonymous No.3887793]

>>3877431

here is the nes pins.

[Anonymous No.3887803]

>>3878390

looking again, its not so much as crushed as it is gouged out in 2 places.Kinda hard to see. also the second circled pin is an issue

[Anonymous No.3887838]

Hey guys, I have a Saturn with the screen bending on the top of the screen. Like, a small section of the topmost segment is always bent to the right in a curve, only like 10 pixels or so.

How do you fix that?
I tried using various different cables, official and third party, and it's always there, so it's not the cables fault.

tried recapping and replacing the filter caps, no difference either.

[Anonymous No.3887847]

>>3887793
You can probably clean the shit out of this and get it going.

[Anonymous No.3887921]

>>3887803
Looks like you need to follow a youtube video about how to fuck up your cart with some solder and shit. Make sure you open up and fuck up your controllers watching a video by the same tool. Fucking autist.

[Anonymous No.3887972]

i just recently got a nes and replaced the pin connector.i got rid of the blinking light, but now when i turn it on it has a black screen and no sound.iv tried differnt cord, tvs, and even pin connectors?what comes next guys?

[Anonymous No.3888538]

>>3887972
re-seat the pin connector, check your PSU.

[Anonymous No.3889015]

>>3887838
Sounds like TV geometry to me. Try to adjust your TV's geometry settings. Trapezoid, pincushion, etc.

[Anonymous No.3889023]

>>3889015
It's not the entire screen that has the issue, only a few lines on the top. It happens on every TV I tried so far (4 or 5).

[Anonymous No.3889035]

>>3886892

If it doesn't cost much, I'd pull the trigger

[Anonymous No.3890509]

>>3877398
I had a Sega Genesis model 2 working perfectly with a six button arcade stick. I was playing some roms on Everdrive and something happened and now only the left and right directions work, and the C is the only one that works which is incorrectly mapped to start.

Is it a broken arcade stick? It was new when I bought it.

Could it be the Genesis not wanting to work with it anymore? Three and six button controllers still work fine.

[Anonymous No.3890520]

>>3886041
if you want to play gb/gbc-carts, a dslite is out of the question anyway.

[Anonymous No.3891460]

Question doesn't really belong here but I don't know where else to put it: are tvs also region dependent? I have all NTSC games and consoles but will be moving to a PAL country. Does this mean the console won't work on their TVs?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3891470]

>>3891460
Apparently, a lot of Euro TVs(or at least CRTs) from the mid-90s onward tended to have both PAL and NTSC decoders in them, so if you can get a hold of one of those, you'll only need to worry about getting proper power adapters/stepup converters for them to actually be usable.

Alternatively, just go RGB and disregard color encoding; But I suppose that all depends on what PAL country you're headed off to.

[Anonymous No.3891485]

>>3891470
>Alternatively, just go RGB and disregard color encoding;

nope, if the TV does not support 525i/60hz, then going RGB won't help you. You'll get a funky rolling picture at best, since it won't be able to sync, let alone decode the colours.

However, all digital TVs should support NTSC, even in PAL land (as long as they have analog input, I mean).

[Anonymous No.3891495]

>>3891470
>>3891485
Sweet, thanks for the help. I'm off to New Zealand. Since I don't mind using a digital TV, at least for the first while, that should be a good start.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3891582]

>>3891485
>let alone decode the colours.
If you're feeding RGB, there is no color decoding.

As for sync, on older, mainly analog chassis, it likely only require an adjustment to v-hold in order to get things to work properly.

[Anonymous No.3891758]

>>3891582
If a set is hardcoded to 625i @ 60hz, then no amount of adjustments will allow you to fix the sync. And most regular TVs won't allow you to adjust things like v-hold - the ones that do most likely can do 525i @ 60hz anyway.

>If you're feeding RGB, there is no color decoding.

Does that even matter when you are not even getting a stable picture.

[Anonymous No.3891935]

>>3887793
That is seriously not enough damage to make any difference. Clean it up, disable the lock out chip and put it back together.

[Anonymous No.3891967]

>>3887803
Those pins look like they are rusting from underneath and the coating is coming up on the left. It looks like its happening on a couple of the other pins as well.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3891969]

>>3891758
>hardcoded
Things with an analog chassis are NOT going to be hard coded, there will be a pot(or otherwise) internally for adjusting it.

That said, I've been told time and time again that from the mid-90s on, most average or better sets should have NTSC compatibility anyway.

Not sure what to expect in NZ though.

>Does that even matter
The way you worded it came off (to me) as if decoding would still be necessary even in RGB.

[Anonymous No.3892098]

Not exactly retro, but does anyone have experience with Wiis? I've got one that turns on and you can hear the disc drive, but there's no output at all. I've tried different TVs, different cables, composite and component, nothing.

I read that it could be anything from the mobo to the wifi or bluetooth module. Is it even worth taking it apart myself or would it be better to just take it in? I do have a working Wii I could probably swap parts with, but I wouldn't want to compromise that one in the process.

[Anonymous No.3892918]

>>3892098
Did it work previously or did you pick it up used? I've wound up with a few that were bricked and sold "as is" - I was fortunate that some had Priiloader installed and I was able to restore them that way, but I'm an amateur.

Obvious dumb question but have you tried both composite and component cables?

[Anonymous No.3893742]

Do Genesis/MD dpads need to be lubricated?
I have one of the later 3-button controllers, with the black plastic pad that rocks against a clear plastic done inside of the controller, and it looks like plastic might be grinding against plastic. Not sure if Saturn or 6-button pads have the same construction.

[Anonymous No.3893845]

>>3892918
I had it softmodded, but I don't recall doing anything that would brick it.
I'm not sure how you could tell the difference between a brick and a hardware issue in this case.

[Anonymous No.3896143]

Every time I take apart a PlayStation controller and put it back together, it never feels quite the same again. It feels like the two halves slide against each other while I'm playing instead of being one solid piece., which makes it feel cheaper. Is there a way to avoid this?

[Anonymous No.3896174]

Is there any way to desolder a genesis games main rom chip and just drop it into a pcb from another genesis game of the same size?

Riggs has youtube videos for doing repros, but i cant find any info on just doing a straight swap.. anyone know if it can be done without reprogramming?

[Anonymous No.3896468]

bump

[Anonymous No.3896714]

>>3896143
Put it back together correctly

>>3896174
Yes

[Anonymous No.3896759]

>>3896174
>Is there any way to desolder a genesis games main rom chip and just drop it into a pcb from another genesis game of the same size?

As long as the size and the pinout is the same, you can do exactly that.

You can also buy one or two donor carts, put a socket on them, and then just swap roms whenever you want.

[Anonymous No.3896949]

if the wikiman is still here, someones spamming on emugen wiki, could you enable this https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:RevisionDelete
theyre probably getting off on the huge spam wall on the recent changes/page history and having their shitposting get completely removed would probably dissuade them

[Anonymous No.3897690]

>>3896759

how do i tell if the pinout is the same? Is there any text on the chip saying so? or anything else? maybe actual rom size?

[Anonymous No.3897928]

>>3897690
Identical boards use identical pinouts, and you can look up a rom file to see its size (if you don't have a programmer).

So for example a sonic 2 rom is 1mbyte, and it is on a 171-5703 board. So all such boards will take 1mbyte roms.

[Anonymous No.3899571]

So my new Dreamcast laser is arriving tomorrow and I'm planning to set it up with my PC setup with it connecting to my secondary monitor via VGA. Now, I'll require a VGA switcher box and I'm curious do these induce input lag to the point that it would be an issue?

[Anonymous No.3899821]

Is it worthwhile to build one of those oscilloscope kits or ali for basic repairs? I already have a decent multimeter, but I think an oscilloscope might make things much easier.

[Anonymous No.3899914]

>>3899821
No. You need to know what a scope is and how to use it for it to be worthwhile. What do you do that you imagine it's going to make easier?

[Anonymous No.3900336]

>>3899914
i just googled it, and found helpful comments. i have an engineering degree and have done a few electronics projects. including software based circuit design/simulation where i didn't really need to diagnose with tools. i just have the multimeter for doing home wiring, but it looks like i should just get a scope anyway.

[Anonymous No.3900602]

>>3900336
>i just googled it, and found that if I post bullshit on the internet some people will believe it
Question is. Are you one of those people? Even though you know the truth?

[Anonymous No.3901416]

So I just got a SNES. It's got one of those fucked up power ports, but it seems to power on fine. But the problem is the game won't boot up. I think it might be there's shit in the pin connectors in the cartridge slot, but I'm at a loss at how to clean it out.

[Anonymous No.3902085]

>>3900336
>i have an engineering degree in ethnic transgender studies
>can i has scope?
lel

[Anonymous No.3902146]

I got a Wii that doesn't have sound. What could be the problem?

[Anonymous No.3903443]

>>3902146
The console, the cord or the TV.

[Anonymous No.3903546]

>>3877398
my mission stick for sega saturn doesn't work
I opened it up and nothing appears out of the ordinary
>its the pad part that doesn't work the stick is just fine

[Anonymous No.3903912]

>>3902146
The fan is busted. Replace it and it will make noise again.

[Anonymous No.3904605]

>>3882878
There are some good contact pads on ebay though beware that not all are created equal. A good pair of contacts is probably going to be a bit stiffer than you'r used to, unfortunately-- the alternative is usually one that's too soft and allows all directions to be pressed at once.

My best advice if your pads are stiff is to just play with them for a while and try to break them in. Your thumbs will be sore but it's better than using pads that don't work.

[Anonymous No.3905616]

>>3886017
There might be a battery in there that needs replacing. Replacing old batteries is always a good idea because they can potentially leak and cause corrosion if they sit too long, although this is less likely to happen with coin cell batteries if I'm correct.

[Anonymous No.3905629]

>>3887803
I reccomend soaking the contacts in a mixture of warm water, salt, and white vinegar for about 5 minutes, then give it a good rub down with Q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That should take the rust and any other corrosion off.

[Anonymous No.3905714]

>>3900336

I think the joke is, if you did have an engineering degree you would already know the answer to your question.

[Anonymous No.3905943]

Is there a way to replace JUST the ribbon cable in a gameboy SP screen? I have a good screen, I have a good board and case, I even have a replacement ribbon cable but I don't know how to replace the screwed-up ribbon attached to my screen.

[Anonymous No.3905992]

>>3905943
Where is it fucked up? As far as I know, those things aren't really accessible inside the screen itself, the best you can probably do is scrape off one side of the protective ribbon carefully above the problem place and then do the same to the corresponding place on the replacement, then join the 2 together with some tape and some way of applying uniform pressure to hold the contacts together, maybe 2 thin strips of straight metal with a small nut and bolt on each end, or glue them together under lots of pressure.

[Anonymous No.3905996]

>>3905992
Is that possible, joining two ribbons? I have a new one, I just didn't take into account that the screen is apparently unable to disassemble when I bought it.

[Anonymous No.3906151]

>>3905996
That looks pretty fucked. Maybe you could get away with a conductive pen with a fine tip to bridge the cut traces, but it's a long shot.

Honestly, it might be time to give up and just buy a new AGS-101 screen. You're looking at about 35 bucks or so on aliexpress.

[Anonymous No.3906165]

>>3906151
>Honestly, it might be time to give up and just buy a new AGS-101 screen
Fuck, this SP fell and broke last fall and it's been in various stages of dis-repair ever since, first waiting on a new case to circumnavigate the globe and then on the replacement ribbon I can't even use. $35 for this thing to work again would be worth it though, thanks for the tip. If only it had been closed when it fell, the ribbon would've been fine, but I was holding it while walking and it slipped out of my grasp.

[Anonymous No.3907775]

>>3906151
>buy a new AGS-101 screen. You're looking at about 35 bucks or so on aliexpress.
Which is sadly about the price you can pay for a complete replacement AGS-101 on ebay. GBA's are currently at rock bottom prices.

[Anonymous No.3907884]

>>3907775
I'd love to see where you're getting backlit SPs for 35 bucks.

[Anonymous No.3907907]

>>3907884
Ebay, I just bought a red one last week. No charger, but the battery it came with is in good condition, and the screen is flawless. I went ahead and got a replacement battery though, I hate trusting used batteries.

[Anonymous No.3908675]

i picked up a PS1 that boots up, but is missing the little piece in the CD tray that actually holds the CD in place (pic).

anyone have know if this is a standard part i can just salvage from a CD player? I would guess so.

[Anonymous No.3908676]

>>3908675
>pic

[Anonymous No.3908697]

>>3908675
one of the most common part with replacements for it. just search ebay for ps1 spindle hub.

[Anonymous No.3908701]

>>3908697
dope, thanks. wouldn't have known that word combo.

[Anonymous No.3908703]

>>3908701
You're going to have a hard time getting it in if you're not good with small parts.

[Anonymous No.3908773]

>>3908676
>that gooey shit on the right hinge
NOPE.tiff

[Anonymous No.3909632]

So i've got this Top Loader for fix, It doesn't power on.

The only thing I've noticed was pic related, which seems to be done on purpose for reasons I don't understand.

I tried re-enabling those traces but the only thing that happened is that the rectifier got busted, so now it may be in a worse state than before.

Any ideas what where they trying to accomplish by doing this?

[Anonymous No.3909635]

I know PS2 isn't /vr/ but you guys are the best bet I've got.

My slim PS2 has issues with reading discs - it seems the disc cover doesn't close properly so it's not registering as closed. What are the things to look for with it, since sometimes i will work but more often than not won't?

[Anonymous No.3909728]

>>3877398
I recently bought a Sonic & Knuckles cartridge from an ebay auction but I can't get it to work. When I insert it into the Genesis it's a tight fit, I need to use twice as much force as I would with my other games.
When I turn the console on I get that "Licensed by Sega" message thing and then blank for the rest, no audio or video. Even when I lock on with another Sonic game does it do anything beyond that.
I tried cleaning it and my system out but the problem still persists, did I just buy a dead copy or what?

[Anonymous No.3909747]

>>3909632
Check the input of the 7805.
T1 is a line filter (transformer), it's supposed to remove HF noise from the after the DC input.

[Anonymous No.3909769]

>>3904605
This is still true for controllers today, they will always feel really stiff yet very tactile but after a couple ten thousand presses the rubber pads aren't going to carry the same elasticity to them.

[Anonymous No.3909862]

My SNES's AC adapter port is broken, the plastic cylinder broke off. It's apparently a common issue.

Does anyone have any quick and easy fixes for this, or do I need to look for a replacement part?

[Anonymous No.3909871]

>>3909862
solder the AC adapter directly to the board, hopefully the + and - are clearly labeled.

[Anonymous No.3909886]

>>3909862
I have replaced the AC port with a generic one. Since the port is part of the back panel I used a dremel to make a hole for the new port. I also used a generic AC adapter instead of the original one.

[Anonymous No.3909891]

>>3909862
As long as the inner contacts are still straight and you aren't doing anything to tug the cable against the system, it shouldn't be a problem. But anything that fits between the pins (not bending them apart, because whatever you do still needs to fit inside the barrel) should be fine if you want to protect them.

[Anonymous No.3909943]

>>3909891
I don't think the contacts are straight. No matter how I position the adapter, it doesn't turn on.

[Anonymous No.3909976]

>>3909943
Then try to bend the pins apart just a little bit. If that doesn't work, your power problem may be elsewhere and just coincidentally arose at about the same the plastic prong broke off.

[Anonymous No.3910447]

>>3909632
Jesus Christ.

Honestly who fucking knows. I nearly bought a SNES until I saw some one had some how ran a wire to a UK plug, and it was an NTSC model.

[Anonymous No.3910449]

>>3909728
You might need to open it and check to see if its a real copy, but it most likely is just a dead copy.

[Anonymous No.3911258]

>>3910447
>some one had some how ran a wire to a UK plug, and it was an NTSC model.

And why does that matter when the thing uses DC input?

[Anonymous No.3912328]

>>3911258
I meant a UK plug into the SNES console. Like, a wire coming out of the back vent, into the console its self with a UK plug at the end. No step down or transformer involved.

[Anonymous No.3913597]

My Wii is having video sync issues (at least, over YPbPr. It's not the cable, I've tested it with other Wiis and it's fine. There's no audio issues and colors seem to appear fine (but it's hard to tell). I don't have a composite cable to test. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3913631]

>>3913597
Wii isn't retro, try /v/ moron.

[Anonymous No.3913646]

So, heres a cap pad on my game gear , /vr/.

Am i fucked?

(never use an iron that has gouges in the tip and doesnt maintain a consistent temp all throughout the tip)

[Anonymous No.3913665]

>>3913631
What do you think the Wii is used for retard?

[Anonymous No.3913667]

>>3913646
Scrape off some of that massive free pad on either side with a bit of sandpaper and solder the leg to that instead.

Now don't fuck up like that on something that isn't an easy as shit salvage. Tips are like a dollar for 5.

[Anonymous No.3913683]

Is there a simple way to turn an NO switch into an NC switch?

[Anonymous No.3913691]

>>3913665
Pirating gamecube games

[Anonymous No.3913817]

I'm having trouble with my C64, it keeps making this buzzing sound and the general audio in games is fucked up. I use an RF cable and have tried different cables to be sure that wasn't the problem.

How do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.3913887]

>>3913667

Im really nervous about fucking it up more, so let me sure I got what youre saying right...

Do you mean to sand down the negative pad (circled) and use the sides of it that arent 'bumping up' like it is the middle of the pad? Or are you referencing doing something with the positive pad?

>Tips are like a dollar for 5.

Thats whats pissing me off. Im using a non-screw-in tip with a pencil iron. Went to 5 different stores and I can only find screw-in type tips. I guess i'm going to bite the bullet and wait for ebay to ship some.

[Anonymous No.3913942]

>>3913887
You know how circuit boards are made, right? There's copper just beneath the surface anywhere you see light green, as long as you don't go insane and sand all the way through it.

I don't know how fucked the pad is just from looking at it, so it's possible the area to the right with the red splodge is cut off, either just use your multimeter to check continuity, or scrape to the left.

[Anonymous No.3914096]

>>3913942

Yes i do. but when im doing something im not experienced in, I have a tendency to over-ask questions to avoid failure.

The red stuff to the right is glue that was used to hold down the original cap.

[Anonymous No.3914116]

>>3913646
Put flux on the pad, remove excess solder with wick, clean with alcohol and take another picture so we can actually see how fucked the pad is.

[Anonymous No.3914231]

>>3913646
Sounds like you're pretty fucked up but your GG is probably fine. Clean it like >>3914116 said before doing anything else.

Whatever you do make sure to completely ignore >>3913667 and anything else that poster says. It's bad advice from someone who's had either very little experience or a lot to drink.

[Anonymous No.3915643]

My sega genesis model 1 has a broken Pin in controller 1 port, what should I do? should I find one of the same pins from another male port or should I just stick a piece of metal in the whole? and solder it

[Anonymous No.3915698]

>>3915643
I'm not sure how easy this would be, but can't you replace the port with another DE-9 port?

[Anonymous No.3915712]

>>3915643
>>3915698
Yeah I'd just replace the entire port with one from a donor console.

[Anonymous No.3916378]

>>3915712
9-pin connectors are super common. You probably don't even need one from a Genesis. It was a standardized form factor.

[Anonymous No.3916615]

>>3908676
They sell spindles on ebay, but they're cheap plastic whereas the stock one is usually ceramic with a plastic top. If you get some, be careful replacing it. You can damage the motor by pushing or pulling too hard on the metal rod.

[Anonymous No.3916641]

anyone know of a decent source for a replacement 62 pin connector? (snes)

the 3 options on ebay appear to be a rusty OEM one for $18, an untested clone console that i might be able to salvage from for $11, or ten aftermarket connectors for $36.

[Anonymous No.3916650]

>>3916641
Really only $36 for 10? Could you give me a link to those?

[Anonymous No.3916658]

>>3916650
http://www.ebay.com/itm/292035968219
These should work with a model 1 SNES, right? I might bite the bullet and go with it just in case I ever want/need to do this again.

[Anonymous No.3916662]

>>3916658
Yes and No

The model 1 SNES with the separate sound and some after, the pins slip over a connector hard wired to the board. You would have to unsolder that and put this in. Even then, it doesn't have the legs going out to the side to be screwed down to give it stability.

[Anonymous No.3916669]

>>3916662
I have one of those two-part connectors. I've already desoldered it because it was corroded to shit, so that's not an issue. I'm sure glue or something could be used to secure it, right? How do the clone consoles manage it?

[Anonymous No.3916670]

>>3916669
The clone consoles basically get what you linked. Yeah, some hot glue might keep it from moving but I'm no expert on it.

[Anonymous No.3916735]

>>3914116

sorry for flash.

[Anonymous No.3916738]

>>3916735
That pad looks fine man. Test for continuity firs though.

[Anonymous No.3918460]

My Sonic and Knuckles works normally and locks on with Sonic 2 (haven't tested it with 1 yet) but locking on with Sonic 3 just gives a black screen. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.3918473]

>>3918460
Clean the contacts.

[Anonymous No.3918482]

>>3918473
Done already. I should mention I have a non-TMSS Genesis, in case the lock-on tech doesn't like that (I know some homebrew carts need you to reset the system after it's on)

[Anonymous No.3918754]

NES controller isn't working. Cleaned inside & out, soldered parts look fine - still, no inputs seem to do anything. Should I assume the chip is bad?

[Anonymous No.3920217]

So I finally got my Sega CD from my childhood back from my parent's house and brought it home with me. It hasn't been used since the mid 2000s, and even then, I remember it would only read the discs when I'd have the system at an angle (basically prop a DVD case under the right side of the system to have it read the disc). Now when I turned it on, at first the disc tray made what sounded like a grinding noise when it opened, but it stopped after that. However, when I press reset to open the tray, it'll open, I'll press reset to close, and it'll close, but then it'll open again. It doesn't stay closed. I've heard these are a pain to fix, so I guess what I'm asking is, does anyone know what can be fixed and what I can do, or even if it's possible? Google wasn't helping me.

[Anonymous No.3920307]

I just "restored" a brick GameBoy after getting proper screwdrivers.
Never use cyanoacrylate on the screen guys. It dissolves the gray paint.

[Anonymous No.3920309]

>>3920217
The only things that are a pain are the things you can't find easy replacements for. The tray mechanism is the only thing I've ever have to rebuild. Everything else I've run into was easy. But I have a lot of experience repairing things. If you can't find repair instructions on Google you probably have none. I wouldn't recommend this as your first repair.

[Anonymous No.3920348]

>>3920309
That's the thing, my repair skills aren't enough to fix my system, I'm afraid I'd fuck it up. Anyone here recommend someone?

[Anonymous No.3920435]

Well I have run into a unique problem.

I was cleaning up a NES and testing some games on it when one game in particular wouldn't boot without garbled graphics. This isn't anything new really. I decided to undo my CIC 2 wire jumper mod to see if this was some how effecting how the game is booting.

This is where things get interesting. The NES now seems to not generate a reset signal. I've tried 2 different reset switches, switched out the CIC chip with 2 others, and replaced the 74HCU04. Nothing I do seems to be helping. It's like it's always stuck on now and rarely boots a game if you're powering it on.

[Anonymous No.3920448]

>>3920348
Drakon

[Anonymous No.3920529]

>>3920435
I'd quit while I was behind if I were you. You seem to me making things worse each time you fuck with it.

[Anonymous No.3920575]

>>3920529
It's not getting any worse. Just it doesn't have a reset signal.

[Anonymous No.3920623]

>>3916378
Sure but you'd need to make sure it had 90 degree PCB mount pins of the correct length to sit at the right height and that it doesn't foul port 2 owing to its overall external dimensions.

I'm willing to bet Sega used something not-quite-off-the-shelf, plus I have tons of donor consoles lying around so am probably biased in that regard.

[Anonymous No.3920706]

>>3920575
>It's not getting any worse.
You can always change that my "fixing" it some more. lel.

[Anonymous No.3920742]

>>3920706
Why are you here

[Anonymous No.3920848]

>>3920742
Hoping for another epic thread of a kid "fixing" something until it is well and truly fucked. If you can give us half the giggles and cringes the vectrex lad did it'll be a blast.

[Anonymous No.3920849]

>>3920848
You're going to be waiting for a while I think.

[Anonymous No.3921657]

>>3920848
>the vectrex lad
Have any archive links?

[Anonymous No.3921880]

>>3921657
It was a few threads over the course of a few months but here's one. Probably the most cringe worthy.
>>/vr/thread/1310798
And it was really sad because the guy tried so hard and there were guys with vectrex repair experience helping him. But he just kept fucking with random stuff and eventually it was kill.

[Anonymous No.3922652]

Hi people.

I have a problem with my master system. The games work perfectly but they are all missing the red color.
Is there a fix for this or I am fucked ? tried change the AV cable and it did nothing.

Personal blog: it make me really sad cause this unit is my first console had it in 87.

[Anonymous No.3922656]

>>3922652
I have a genesis that was missing the green color and it was an easy fix.

Get a service manual and trace the green line from the encoder backwards. You'll like find there's a broken/corroded trace or component in the path.

[Anonymous No.3922685]

>>3922656
This is what the display look like.
Didn't bother connecting it to the crt cause I had the same problem.

[Anonymous No.3922826]

>>3922685
So no one have an idea?

Found nothing on the PCB really but didn't check with a voltmeter too.

thanks.

[Anonymous No.3923027]

>rubber feet melt on my SNES
HELP, What a fucking mess

[Anonymous No.3923084]

I've had trouble retaining an understanding of what matters when it comes to AC adapters, so hopefully someone can help me. I know that
a) the output voltage should be the correct number & type of current
b) the output amperage can be higher than what is required
c) the connector obviously has to fit

What about the input voltage? For example, the only difference I can see between US and JP adapters for the N64 is that one is 120VAC input and the other is 100VAC. Does that matter?

Are JP & US AC adapters interchangeable for the N64? Should you only use the one that matches the console? Should you only use the one that matches the country you're in? Thanks.

[Anonymous No.3923168]

>>3923084
Apparently input voltage for US vs JP models is similar enough that most things will work either way, but sometimes there can be issues.

[Anonymous No.3923273]

>>3922685
>So no one have an idea?
Do this: >>3922656

>Found nothing on the PCB really but didn't check with a voltmeter too.
Check with a multimeter.

[Anonymous No.3923381]

>>3923168
It sounds like the better option is for the power supply to match the country, though, correct? My understanding is that US & JP N64 consoles are identical, so it sounds like the differences are in the power grid standards.

[Anonymous No.3923941]

Where can I buy brand new screws for PS1 controllers?

[Anonymous No.3924104]

>>3923084
input voltage can be within 10~20 volts. Keep in mind if you do that you will most likely wear out the AC adapter faster though due to heat.

This usually is the case for older AC adapters though. Newer ones are multi voltage and hertz such as a lap top adapter. You would just need the right plug.

[Anonymous No.3925338]

My NES doesn't turn on anymore. Last time it worked, I had just changed the pins and everything worked fine when I tested it. Recently though it doesn't turn on at all.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3926048]

>>3925338
Could be a power supply problem? Hard to know without testing with a different PSU or opening the system up.

[Anonymous No.3926186]

>>3925338
>>3926048
What he said. The easiest thing to do is swap the AC adapter.

If you can, test the AC adapter with a multi-meter. If you still can't get it to turn on, the 7805 might have failed.

[Anonymous No.3926375]

>>3920623
Not him, but the 9-pin connector in general had a 90 degree mount on it. I used to work at Office Depot and I'd buy the things constantly because they made good spares in case this happened. Unfortunately, they've since dropped that stock and only sell 9-pin adapters of various kinds now. Nothing 90 degree anymore.

[Anonymous No.3926531]

>>3926375
Plastic shroud variants are relatively expensive and hard to source though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131406521512