/vr/ - Retro Games

>>8557446
What the other guy said, really depends on what you're doing, and your technique. Doom's tradition of centered weapons I find makes things a lot easier, because the perspective is generally very consistent and straightforward.

I largely frankensprite, but I end up drawing in details as well. Sometimes I'll take a shape from something I like, blank it out (maybe even deform it), and then paint in the detail.
A few helpful things to keep in mind, regardless of approach:
>1: Doom stretches pixels vertically by 20%, for some things you can actually ignore paying attention to this, but for things which are supposed to be round, it can be good to keep it in mind.
>2: In art, without a readily apparent light source present, light will shine onto objects from the upper left.
>3: Don't get too carried away with the 'length' of a weapon, it has to fit on screen and also line up reasonably with the shooting.
>4: To give surfaces texture, there's a lot you can do by duplicating the area (entire sprite even), throwing a filter onto that, then making that new filtered layer translucent, then you can also erase away parts on that top layer, either partially to create some kind of smooth visual, or in full because whatever got filtered didn't look good.
>5: You can also do things like draw in stuff like wood grain or scratches on metal (and wood, and plastic)) by using thin and faint single strokes of black or white.
>6: Something you can do for a surface which is supposed to have a non-gray color is to make it gray anyway while working on it, then working out the detail, then coloring it afterwards, you can also use multiple copied layers of the surface in different colors, say a more reddish hue or a more yellowish hue for a brown wood, then erase splotches from one laid above the other to have a more nuanced look.
>7: You can also do shine for muzzle flashes this way.
>8: If working within palette limitations, dithering can help a lot in some cases.