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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.72458559 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

>WIP Pastebin

>Making some awesome banners:

>Recasting with Blue Stuff and LEGO bricks

>Previous threads

>> No.72458570

Just keep grinding through these second hand marines.

>> No.72458690

Not much of a wip yet but getting started on one of my favorite sculpts in 40k.
Plan is white helmet, linen looking robes, what should the weapons be?

>> No.72458707



I'm going to eventually be painting them very similarly to Iron Knights, but without the little shields

>> No.72458708

Thanks for the advice from a previous thread about makeup brushes. Never thought I'd be happy to see those come in the mail but I now have a bazillion pretty good dry brushes for 8 bucks in all sorts of sizes, perfect for weathering small guys and vehicles.

>> No.72458712

You're doing the Emperor's work, son.

>> No.72458743

Wait, didn't you just receive them like two threads ago?
The absolute madman.

>> No.72458774

So I have the arm on, magnetize and all so it can move up, down, and he can grip gitz! Time to prime and paint!

>> No.72458790

UPS anon here just finished basing and varnishing my terminator, about to start on highlights and rust effects.
Tried doing something different for an attempt at plasma glow and only made it much worse, kept trying to fix it but after so many layers I was losing detail and had to stop.
So what does everyone think of the mailbox? Got some dark angel bits from a friend so that way nurgles packages have an appropriate recipient.

>> No.72458800

Aren't you going to disguise the cardboard on the bottom?

>> No.72458806

Forgot image, fuck me.

>> No.72458808


>> No.72458825

how do i go about doing that?

>> No.72458846

looks blurry, but dope.
yea, yellow on the plasma glow is a bit painful to look at considering how good the rest of the model looks, that looks like you used a layer yellow instead of starting with a higher pigment one

>> No.72458859

Ironically coronachan is breaking up with us just as I received the box so I’m in overtime mode.

>> No.72458882

Wallspackle works.

>> No.72458886

Cut it flush with the rim and fill it with a putty or something. I'd have gone about it differently, by making the cardboard circle smaller than the base, then slap some texture paste on it to disguise it. Then again, hindsight is 20/20.

>> No.72458889

Aren't you going to drill those barrels?

>> No.72458915

You could go for the good old cardboard slate look.
You can ''prime'' the edge with liquid superglue to harden it and just paint it. But be gentle with the superglue, just let the cardboard soak it up slowly and don't spill it all over.

>> No.72458923

I also don't own a drill but I have a friend who does but I have to wait till they are free later

>> No.72458948

Yeah, I tried using white, layer flash gits yellow, and fluorescent Vallejo and kept fucking shit up.
Here, a less blurry image that hides my shame.

>> No.72458978

How are you getting such clean strips? What chemical are you using?

>> No.72459002

And from the back

>> No.72459010

“Wake up dickheads”

>> No.72459068

What's considered "fast" painting in terms of time per model?

>> No.72459079

I see my aliexpress recasts have arrived

>> No.72459103

For me around an hour. But that's basic ass tabletop quality

>> No.72459105

Including priming? 2-3 hours. Considering a primejob already down or a preprimed mini? Maybe 1-2 hours for a small 28mm mini. I'd say 3-4 hours excluding waiting for a primer to dry is what you'd want to spend on a mini if you want it to look pretty.

>> No.72459123


>> No.72459127

Depends on desires quality. I could bang out 2k of “okayish” looking Imperial Guard in a day if I used all the batch painting tricks out there. I wouldn’t, but I could.

>> No.72459143

I was making a joke about the plagueboy next to a mailbox.

>> No.72459152

Oh, I thought there was a casting defect that I didn't notice that you did, lol.

>> No.72459154

Hello I would like to fund your sitcom.

>> No.72459177

That gold has such poor coverage, it's patchy all over. Please fix it. Don't be another stereotype DG player where you blame it on them being Nurgle dudes and it's ok if it looks subpar.

>> No.72459218

So, ever since anon posted about FW "quality" in the last thread, I was looking around videos for FW models. Why the fuck do these parts have such massive reservoirs? I know you need something there so there's resin to fill in bubbles as they come out, but Christ. These blocks are as big as the part in a lot of cases. Is that actually necessary?

>> No.72459225

Acted on impulse, and slapped together a bunch of bits from abandoned projects I had lying around into a warpsmith. Needs cleaning up and greenstuff mechadendrites, likely some wires or tubes or some shit, and possibly more bits. Also need to figure out what to do with the spine.

>> No.72459279

>Is that actually necessary?
No, they're just doing a sloppy lazy job.
Their resin is cheap as fuck, so they don't care to weigh the correct amount.
Why use precise measurements and good resin when you can just use cheapshit resin and let your untrained neckbeard workers spill it all over the place?

>> No.72459311

so secret santa signups start sometime soon?

>> No.72459312

I was thinking haemonculus at first but maybe a Dark Mechanicum Magos as a counts-as warpsmith? It's not very space marine.

>> No.72459321

You missed 'em already. Signups were in January.

>> No.72459418

Does this work?
I want it to be jarring.
I don't know if I'm completely happy with it yet.

>> No.72459436

The blocks are because they want to overfill the moulds lest you get a bubble and thats the way you can also apply some pressure into the mold without spilling hot noxious resin all over the place, which is using gravity and differential pressure to make the resin want to force the air out if it has a mass of it above. Compare that with finecrap(tm) which uses more basic press moulds and FW actually has a smarter brainlet approach to resin. That being said FW would unironically be better if they just had industrial 3D printers churning out their parts than working with resin in 2020.

>> No.72459448

As always great job but the drybrushing can be a cruel way to expose imperfections in the model, what with that line down its middle.

>> No.72459513

Drybrushing is a cruel mistress. She laughs at your naked body, insults you. She is belittling and insulting. But I go back to her. Why? Because she is the only prostitute I can afford.

>> No.72459535

good job dude but shoulda filled that gap

>> No.72459551

As a fan of the basecoat/wash/drybrush kind of work I feel you. If only liquid greenstuff actually was decent.

>> No.72459559


>> No.72459578

Noted, I'll have to try some out the next time I need some gap filler and can't overfill/sand down the spot.

>> No.72459614

Also have you tried applying normal Greenstuff with a small object? I use t-pins, office supplies that are basically metal toothpicks. Great for working tiny GS into a crack and flattening it.

>> No.72459623

Yeah, it's meant to be dark mech, likely biologis, hoping to use it in whatever fun comes along with War of the Spider. Thinking about using Stormfiends to make fleshy Helbrutes.

>> No.72459670

I do have proper tools so I may consider it, but I like a more liquid and stick-to-the-model-and-not-the-tool that the liquid stuff can do. I just don't like how gritty LGS is.

>> No.72459701

Another alternative. Liquid Greenstuff is the worst meme on the market.

>> No.72459723

Forgot to post pic like the tard I am.

>> No.72459746

my first time trying to highlight. flesh and red is really difficult. It's a little too sharp on the lower cloth but it looks better irl. Think im going to do the armour in scale 75 copper.

>> No.72459755

This shit shrinks so fucking much and takes a million coats to fill a gap flush. Wouldn't recommend.

>> No.72459760

>FW quality

My favourite

>> No.72459804

That actually is the camera making it so the agrax earthshade on the brass isnt appearing properly. It looks good in person, though you did just make me eye fuck all my trim to make sure.

>> No.72459811

I'm reminded of finecast

>> No.72459824


>> No.72459862


thanks anons. i appreciate the feedback, and yeah i shoulda. does the whole thing "work" conceptually though? i want the feel of looking into the eye of a giant squid or something

>> No.72459885

Whatever it is its alien and grotesque, almost like a 40k lovecraftian god.

>> No.72459899

Nope. We just did signups for 2025.

>> No.72459919

That paint scheme screams cosmic horror, nice job!

>> No.72459942

Warping's a pretty universal thing for resin kits, it's nothing to do with casting an everything to do with packaging. Same as with bent metal.

>> No.72459986

>it's nothing to do with casting an everything to do with packaging
That doesn't make it better, at this price you could expect them to not just throw everything into a plastic bag.

>> No.72460015


it's a tyranid sporocyst, one of the centerpiece models for my spore mine centric splinter fleet.

those are the best compliments i could ask for. thanks anons!

>> No.72460086

Unless you package it in such a way that parts aren't rubbing against each other, and that they can't bash against the packaging itself, you're probably going to get some warping. That's going to need a fuckin' big box with the parts all spaced out, and either suspended in some way or tightly padded. And since warping is a piece of piss to fix (you just put it in hot water then bend it back), that's just not worth it.

>> No.72460115

The bootlegs I've gotten from chang and ivan through their abusive and long mailing services speak otherwise.

>> No.72460150

yeah i cant understand why they havnt transitioned over to 3d printing, no worrying about molds wearing out too.

>> No.72460198

It boggles the mind. A good five figure USD printer made for churning out auto parts and whatnot is going to be amazing quality for minis seeing what budget printers can churn out.

>> No.72460216

Because they paid good money for their resin gear and intend to get every possible penny of your money out of it before buying shitloads of expensive printing gear

>> No.72460231

That's their biggest issue with quality, right? Not replacing the molds in a timely fashion? It's not just pulls that wear them down, just sitting on a shelf they degrade.
Not transitioning to 3D prints is likely a marketing thing. They'd have to admit it's viable for miniatures if they did it. Though, I'm not convinced UV cure resin is the best material for large but detailed models. Isn't it very brittle? You'd have a lot of chipping where urethane and polystyrene don't give you those problems.

>> No.72460240

It has all to do with the terrible quality of polyurethane resin GW uses, all just to make like 1$ more profit per model.
Changs actually use higher quality PU, they're basically at the source.
>Because they paid good money for their resin gear

>> No.72460265

They could just use a good FDM printer and not have to worry about the costs of UV resin curing printers.

>> No.72460356

>They could just use a good FDM printer
No. Industrial FDM printers aren't used for their aesthetically pleasing results. This does not make sense outside of any hobbyist application of this type of printer.
Besides that, high quality SLA resin printers cost less than high end industrial FDM printers.

>> No.72460389

is the plan to smooth down the greenstuff? it'll look clumpy and out of place if you prime it how it is. maybe take a hobby knife n nail file to shape it

>> No.72460602

Gaslands Airplane Boneyard from old model kits.

>> No.72460604


Wilko paint and varnish remover, it's a UK chain of shops. Amazing stuff.

>> No.72460615

>Primed nice
>Just one gap around the forehead to fill and its ready for painting
>I think i'll give it a base of khorne re-
>Straight up the only GW paint i don't have in my vast paint collection is khorne red
>None of my p3, vallejo or army painter stuff have the hue i want
>Order some
>Will probably get it in a fucking month at best


>> No.72460634

I have half a dozen kits waiting to be cut up, will hopefully end up with a nicely themed table when I build a few hangars and sheds to go along.

>> No.72460637

Based. I've been resorting to dettol for some (((pro painted))) tomb king metals i saved off ebay.

>> No.72460682


Yeah, dettol is alright but it fucking stinks and it does the whole thing where it turns into an unshiftable clag if you mix it with water.

Be careful with the Wilko stuff though, wear kitchen gloves and don't huff too much. Plastics don't need too long either, I give them like 3 hours a go.

>> No.72460685

this when they charge delivery as a percentage. total horseshit.

>> No.72460730

looks interesting, i dont play gaslands, but airplane wing ramps and fuselage tunnels to drive thru could be fun.

>> No.72460747

gaslands does look really cool but how do you even get cars from a toy shop without feeling like a pedo

>> No.72460775

Got most of mine from flea markets, this lot for under ten bucks all in all.

>> No.72460787

either buy them online, charity shops or just borrow a friends child

>> No.72460788

Grocery stores sell Hotwheels in the USA or bootleg ones but its a mixed bag for what you'll get. Also Ebay should be your friend.

>> No.72460825

I'd love to do just a big rigs only force of moving fortresses with guns all over the place.

>> No.72460861

you need an extra layer between the two. You don't just put a basecoat and then a highlight. The simple starting technique is a base coat, main layer which covers everything but the dark areas and then highlight or another layer, wash and highlight.

>> No.72460934


aye true, red is hard enough to work with on the best of days. I have some glaze medium coming s o hopefully the rest of the warband doesn't have such sharp highlights.

>> No.72460988

How are you cleaning them? I've got some rats that need work.

>> No.72461052

>or just borrow a friends child
>without feeling like a pedo

>> No.72461076

Can you melt or deform plastic with wilko or dettol? I've been using lye based cleaner to strip, but it takes an age of soaking, scrubbing and then back into the stripper. I'm curious to try something faster, even i fit's a little more dangerous/requires more watching.

>> No.72461092

Just don't fuck the kid, come on, this is not that difficult.

>> No.72461138

Mix the right colour? What Do you have? Khorne red is just primary red with idk a touch of blue green to desaturate it. Not that hard if you just mess about

>> No.72461392

24hrs in Super Clean, the scrubbed with a hard bristle brush.

These fuckers had rubber cement all over them so I had to do a lot of manual scraping, but for superglue and paint Super Clean melts that shit right off.

>> No.72461393

I think CB fucked up this face, his left eye (lookers right) is physically pushed out further

>> No.72461591

Yellow looks nice but the gun-metal/runefang? Don't match with the yellow.

>> No.72461915

Morty, morty! We're in the 41st millennium Morty!

>> No.72461975

thanks, I hate it.

>> No.72462010

Doesn't harm or smudge the model at all?

>> No.72462103

Spent all of my free time this evening assembling dudes. Gonna try and airbrush them tomorrow. Never airbrushed before so I expect it to look breddy rough

>> No.72462182

>throwing knife meme

>> No.72462205

Looks good, but to finish it off I would sand off the mechanicus symbol on the axe and add a chaos star in its place

>> No.72462219

I'm scraping the lines off right now bruv

>> No.72462307

Are these the ones deemed useless for some reason?

>> No.72462327

Morty! I turned myself into a nigger Morty! I just got cucked morty! I'm nigger ricckkkkk!

>> No.72462359

I'm not sure what you mean.

>> No.72462364

still waiting for package from greenstuff to arrive so i can continue.

i drilled some skulls and added them to the chain going to do more, looks sick

>> No.72462390

There's a scout marine that people were having tabletalk about, saying they're virtually useless. Other options that are more optimal for the role or something? Anyways, I just wondered what unit they were in general.

>> No.72462415


>> No.72462494

They will assume that it's for your hypothetical kid(s)

>> No.72462499

Gonna call this build finished!

>> No.72462520

Now that's looking like it is coming together just fine. Have you tested some of the blood pool effects on a scrap piece of foam? It'd be a shame to go through the work and get something off when you go to pour.

>> No.72462569

I always marvel at you plasticard wizards. That looks really bad ass and it all came from thin sheets of plastic.

>> No.72462588

>Actually glueing on pieces of plastic for rivets
>Not just putting down a bead of super glue and letting it dry
Looks fine though.

>> No.72462656

I don't think globs of super glue give good results

>> No.72462838

thinking of going with epoxy glue and blood for the blood god, going to try on a piece of foam good advice, if it looks like shit il buy UV resin or something similar

>> No.72462914

Do you guys know the cheapest place to get bases? And greenstuff.

>> No.72462941

Buy greenstuff under it's normal name, kneadite. Can pick up 3 foot rolls on Amazon for $15.
eBay for bases.

>> No.72462970

Doing my HQs again. Not really a MoP anymore, he's just another Apostle.

>> No.72463001

What reds and yellows are you using? I like how bright they are.

>> No.72463008

So how does this work?

>> No.72463090


>> No.72463101


It works rather well.

>> No.72463121

love it my dude

>> No.72463145

Based. I meant how is it applied since it's not in a regular tube.

>> No.72463151

Based with German Rotbraun, then glazed on Zvezda's Master Acrylics №12 Red and №33 Orange. The yellow is GW's Flash Gitz Yellow.

>> No.72463202

use a brush to put it into whatever recess, use alcohol to clean up. leave about a day if you want to sand.

>> No.72463226


>> No.72463229

Wouldn't a palette knife work better? I've never used anything like this so I am just shooting in the dark.

>> No.72463274

depends on the circumstances but I just use dime a dozen dogshit synthetic brushes that I have for this kind of thing. they're still cleanable with alcohol.

>> No.72463288

Neat, thanks! Ill have to pick up those reds when i can.

>> No.72463325

Just got let go, now that I've got free time I'd like to finally get into the hobby. Is there a buyer's guide for essential tools and paints? I was thinking of getting the Slaves to Darkness set.

>> No.72463357

Be warned, they are a bit on the orange side. And avoid getting their normal acrylics, those are ass, only their Master line is any good.

>> No.72463396

Oh, and the armour is just BA Red contrast over metallic undercoat, I posted that recipe here several times, but repeating just in case.

>> No.72463434

this is very well done. The question is why?

>> No.72463441

I did something similar a while back.

>> No.72463476

My nigga

>> No.72463480

Noted, screen shotting for later use.

>> No.72463519

I have this desire to make detachable magazines for some Primaris Marines. This seems like it would be an absolute nightmare to do.

>> No.72463528

>two peg legs
Fucking nice

>> No.72463576

Never rush art.

>> No.72463964

Battering ram update. Needs something toward the top still, but I like it so far.

>> No.72464024

For whoever asked last thread about the gasmasked heads.
Both heads are from Warlord games here:

To get the hat on the officer, I just cut away the helmet and got the top nice and flat, before using a file to round out the back sides of the head. From there I got a plastic officers head from the Waffen-SS sprue and cut off the head part of it. From there I just used superglue and it worked pretty well. I even tried it with a field cap, and it turned out nice as well. Very little filling to be done as the glue itself does that for you, and the bond is so good I don't need to pin it or nothing. With that in mind I think the heads themselves are probably a goldmine for conversions, especially with stuff like Imperial Guard in 40K, though im not sure if the helmets would fit, but worth the try. They also got other gas masked helmets for British and American forces, which would probably fare the same in terms of helmswaps.

>> No.72464051

Hes got a robot arm too. He's pretty much a proto-nugget at this point

>> No.72464156


Dettol no, it's pretty safe,, but in my opinion it's not the best stripper. Meanwhile Wilko's stuff obliterates paint out of every crevice (the amount of time you can spend doing this with other strippers is understated) but I simply don't know if it hurts plastic because I take stuff out after like 6 hours

>> No.72464200

From what are the chained-up dudes?

>> No.72464254

What's happened is your eye is waaaaay too big. Look at the boxart and his whites are about a third of the size. You've painted his whites over his eyelids

>> No.72464286

Warmachine Menoth Wracks

>> No.72464362


What bits is all this anon, that looks absolutely bitching and I would love to do sometjing similar if you don't mind sharing with me.

>> No.72464395



>> No.72464400

This is my first model ever so please be harsh.

Also backpack thing or no?

>> No.72464440

what the fuck happened to him

>> No.72464490

Working on a greater possessed, thinking of the left hand claws and hooves being black. The trim of the armor will also be black, though. Sound fine, though?

>>72462970 Damn that armor is nice

>> No.72464510

>Reposting for feedback.

Still not fully committed to an armor color scheme. I really want to do the offwhite/blue fleshy bits.
I would like to see a non green Death Guard. Ideas? Also if you guys like one of the schemes on there let me know. Any suggestions welcome.

>> No.72464512

I'd have it fade to black like some insects do on the thicker chitin parts

>> No.72464553

Just fucked around with a Dremel and a bunch of bits from eBay. I am trying to figure out a way to make a buff skitarii alpha.

It's bad I know lol but I have no idea what I'm doing yet.

>> No.72464649

fell down the stairs looks like

>> No.72464651

This could be easily salvaged with green stuff, but I don't know how proficient you are at sculpting. Only give him the backpack if it can sit squarely on the back. If you have to do any more drilling just to make it work then best leave it off.

I can see you were trying to fuck up his armor a little intentionally too, that mostly works but could be a tiny bit overboard.

>> No.72464691

you overreached, don't run before you can walk.
It's all well and good attempting to push yourself but you're so far out of your depth it's laughable

>> No.72464719


>> No.72464758

I’m a fairly mediocre painter, base colors, a wash some highlights if my hands aren’t too shaky. However I keep seeing the paint seem to flake away from the edges of my models that I’ve primed white. It’s not that the paint is too thin or too thick, it’s exactly the consistency that I always use and get good results on for black or gray primer, it’s only on models with white primer. I’ve tried reapplying paint but even after a solid coat it disappears pretty quickly. Any idea what might be causing this or what a good way to fix it would be?

>> No.72464768

Looks absolutely dreadful, mate. I'm not really sure what inspired to do this to your very first model. What's more baffling is that you come here asking for opinions as if you couldn't see it for yourself how messed up that model is. None of this adds up. Just pick up a model that isn't destroyed and paint it first. Get comfortable with the hobby before you try crazy things like you see people on Instagram do with a gorillion followers. Like the other Anon says, don't run before you can walk. Hell, you can't even crawl yet.

>> No.72464779

That’s awesome conversion work, Anon!

>> No.72464782

I was trying to intentionally rough it up. I wanted to add little bullet holes and dings to make him look like it was in the front line.

I really appreciate the input this is really just a test run so I'm going to try sculpting the best I can!

>> No.72464792

I could tell early I was overreaching. I have this vision that I want to keep talking a crack at so I figured just doing it over and over I'd eventually learn.

Is there a place you recommend I begin?

>> No.72464809

I unironically told my mom I'd paint something brighter and more colourful and so I started this tonight based on Blanche's sketch on the left. I don't know if it translates very well or if I'm just retarded or what. I stippled and washed with a shade (that's still drying in that image). Not sure if I should go all the way to make it look like the sketch (with more stippling of red/orange/yellow) or not.

>> No.72464832

Bummer, seriously? :(

>> No.72464908

Plastic can soak indefinitely with no issue. Pewter I pull out after about 4 hours because it gets bendy. Haven’t stripped resin.

New updates. Going for nice TT. The scout capes were a bitch, bunch of superglue residue (I don’t fucking know, the previous owner was an ape) on the capes so I dirtied them up heavy to hide it. Think the powerfist guy is becoming presentable.

>> No.72464919

Too add for clarity, I've left plastic minis soaking for a couple of weeks. No harm at all to them.

>> No.72464920


I had a vision I was going for and I like the idea of roughing a model and took it really far.

I was do have models that are coming in from GW but I am extremely anxious to learn the sculpting/kitbashing.

I appreciate the honesty and I'll make sure I learn before I go posting again!

>> No.72464937

I'd say you largely nailed it, outside of the lack of yellow

>> No.72464941

yea, we're booked solid for next year too. Check back in 2022

>> No.72464943

>Any idea what might be causing this
Are you handling the models with your hands as you paint? That can - and especially with some kinds of white primer - does rub the paint off the raised edges as you fumble around with them in your grabba-claws. You can avoid this by not touching the models as you paint them. Blue-tacking to an old paint bottle/lid and using Citadel's painting handles are both acceptable alternatives.

>> No.72464947

I genuinely hope you'll go far. I don't have the balls to rough up models as you do. Godspeed, Anon.

>> No.72464953

jokes aside I think we should have the signup really early in august or something, fuck tourists etc. etc.

>> No.72464954

Increase the saturation of your red and yellow.

I think it looks really cool so keep going.

>> No.72464963

fuck secret santa

>> No.72464977

I could go a bit harder on the yellow and do another wash, I think. I'm actually surprised it looks decent. Maybe I've been looking at too much Blanche and my brain has been warped.

>> No.72464996


Haha, thank you. I'll do my best to make you proud.

I expect many models in the graveyard, I'll be sure to get a cringe compilation of all the fuck ups.

>> No.72465004

Sorry, didn't see this. Strengthen the saturation of both or darken them?

>> No.72465034

Yes, I’ve been trying my best to avoid touching the models, but the oils on my hand would degrade the paint. I didn’t think it would happen that fast though! I’ve got a few wine corks that can work as model holders for now, thanks for the advice! Any idea why white primer is the most susceptible?

>> No.72465112


Right let me take a crack at this. As someone who also jumped into the deep end of conversion, and oddle enough started with an admech stormcast conversion, let me give you my tjougjts and what i've learned. This ain't easy, and you will need the right tools, but it can be done.

First thing if you want to do conversion i would strongly suggest getting a hand drill, for a couple of reasons. The first reason is pinning. Not for the limbs, but for the weapon. Now i may be wrong, but it looks like you took thr stormcast arm amd cut off the weapon and then cut thr weapon off the skittles arm and glued it on. This is all well and good, but the connection is often week. Taking a very small bit put a hole dead center of the two sides you are trying to connect, use a bit of wire or a staple as the connecting rod, and then glue. This gives a much stronger connection and keeps things centered so they don't look skiwampus.

The hand drill can also be used to make small holes. You mentiined wanting it to look like it had been shot, a few shallow holes drilled on an armor plate here and there and then chipped at with a hobby knife can give a good battle scarred look. A dremel really isnt the tool for doing that.

Now i can see a few areas where things are chewed up, the pauldron on the arm holding the weapon for example. If these were intentional i would reccomend not doing that again. Doesn't look good. Stsrt eith a jobby knife and make small cuts. Remember you can alwaya take more off but its hard to add more on, so when you make changes start small and gradually work up to where you want to be rather than starting by taking a large chunk off and then realizing it looks bad.


>> No.72465156


Get greenstuff. Don't buy it in the strips but it where the green and the blue come in two seperate tubes. The middle of the strips has already set cause the yellow and blue are touching and can cause problems. Get the tubes from green stuff world.

For the belt i would reccommend some greenstuff to make the tubing/wiring go all the way around the body like a belt. If you don't feel confidant in your ability to sculpt it yourself get the tube making tool from greenstuff world. That thing is pretty damn awesome.

Thing about converting is in my experience a lot of it is about patience and taking your time to do things carefully. And a willingness to fuck up, cause failure is how we learn what doesnt work. Fortunately the second is more important than the first sincd it cant alwaya be learned and you have it, so you'll go far. Let me know of you want any more advice.

...how the fuck did i miss all those typos? Curse my phone posting ass.

>> No.72465201


An addendum on the weapon, look at jow its possitioned on the original model and how its possitioned on yours. If we look at the hand and the crossbar the "blade" equivalent is not lined up woth them its looks like its at a bit of an angle to me, which makes it look awkward.

>> No.72465265

makin my first paper banner, gonna do some more work on the marine and then get the flag wavy looking

>> No.72465286

Thank you so much! I will take all the advice you have honestly, that was a beautiful path to follow-up with.

I ran into the issues of smoothing because I was using a power tool. The hand drill and hobby knife will be something I add to my set quickly now.

I am unsure if sculpting is something I can do but I am extremely excited to get started.

One issue I was experiencing was when I had to remove a LARGE amount of material. For example I replaced the paldrons so I had to remove the stormcast to add the ones I did. Would the Dremel suit that task or should I take my time with the slower hand equipment?

>> No.72465314

I had to cut off the stormcast arm and twist it back a bit to fit the paldron so I tried to keep it true. Honestly I probably should have pointed it forward than back it might have looked less awkward.

>> No.72465341

use a straight edge next time

>> No.72465345


Well I personally go at it with a knife, but as long as you use a small dremmel bit and are careful it should be possible to use the dremel to remove unwanted material. The key is going to be figuring out how much you can remove without affecting areas that will still be seen. If its gonna be under the pauldron then it doesn't have to be pretty cause people won't see it. Any bits that get messed up where people can see them you gotta go in with greenstuff or miliput to fix, so if you're going to go at it with a dremmel be careful.

>> No.72465419

Haemonculus for body, part of the head, the two small arms. Inquisitor Greyfax for the upper chest. Khorne Berzerkers for the plasma pistol. new Chaos Space Marines for the bolter and belt. Wracks for the mask. Tech-Priest Dominus for the axe and the rest of the arms. At a lot of bits can probably be substituted from other things.

>> No.72465431

it is straight, the paper is curling from moisture but when I put glue on the back it'll dampen enough to put together properly. I made some super basic test ones before this.

>> No.72465476

More Word Bearers!

>> No.72465486

Nice, what are you playing them as?
Thanks. I'll probably put a knife to it next, I keep seeing small bits and here and there that needs to be neatened up anyway. I have a habit of quickly bashing tings together before I have removed mold lines, only having cut away stuff that is specifically needed for the conversion. Also before the glue is try. It's not uncommon for me to fidget around with 2-4 wet parts and hating myself for doing it.

>> No.72465489


Not sure if we're thinking of the same thing, so I'm going to put up a reference picture. The positioning of the arm looks more or less fine to me, it's how the taser goad is attached to the handle that looks funky to me.

See if you look at how you have it attached we can see the crossguard of the blade is going one way, and the power generator/base of the "blade" is sitting perpendicular on the cross guard so that if your guy swings it he's going to smack a bitch with the flat of the "blade" rather than the edge. I mean I know it's a taser goad and it doesn't have an actual edge, but the way the original bit is the piece should be turned 90 degrees.

I'm terrible in explaining this in words so look at the picture of the arc maul here. See how the power segment/base of the weapon goes the same way as the crossguard rather than sitting at right angles? That's what I was trying to get at with the weapon thing. Hope that makes sense and wasn't confusing.

>> No.72465501


>> No.72465612

Increase saturation for both red and yellow. I'm not sure how to say that any other way lol.

>> No.72465622

Yup, did what I could

For the first time though, I have a matching squad for a war game

>> No.72465670


So I went and dug out my admech stormcast conversion from when I was starting a few years back. This was the first kitbash I ever did personally, my flgs was having a kitbash competition and the owner (who was a good friend of mine) encouraged me to join cause they didn't have many participants. Had a lot of fun and I've been converting ever since. Looking at it now I can see where I would do things differently, and there are definitely problems, but honestly it's not a terrible mini and it looks fine on the table. I guess what I'm trying to say is stick with it, you can do it, and even early efforts can still be looked at with pride as representations of how far you've come if nothing else.

Also, looking at this reminded me of a suggestion I would like to make for your mini. If you're going to be doing a storm cast admech conversion consider getting some of the armor bits from a kataphron kit, I personally think work pretty well for it. Adds some admech flavor and keeps a nice heavy armor feel.

>> No.72465690

I think we are aligned. I tried to match up the weapon with what the fist originally was holding but because I twisted the arm back it comes off at an odd angle. It looks like it's twisted back when really it's just his arm is kind of cocked backwards.

>> No.72465727

I absolutely will look into that! I really appreciate tips on what bits to look at as I have only ever read the books. The model side of this hobby is completely new to me.

I appreciate you digging out some models, it gives me joy to see where people have started from in the hobby.

>> No.72465733


and I forgot the reference picture like a complete idiot. still sounds like you understand so should be fine.

Gotta ask, whats with the clay on everything?

>> No.72465735

(Mobile poster sorry) Just redoing a Techpreist since it’s my one year into the hobby

>> No.72465754


this the before redo picture or the after redo picture?

>> No.72465781

I ordered a separate Preist to redo, gimme a sec to get him

>> No.72465808

Here they both are

>> No.72465891

I stuck chalk on the model and put a red hot drill bit in there. I figured I'd try to...melt in a bullet hole? I let the but cool to try to get it to "pull" some material back to look like the material warped and I figured the chalk would help it from getting stuck.

Just kinda experimenting to see what textures I can get.

>> No.72465907


>> No.72465930

This board is SFW, Anon.

>> No.72465962


you know the melted holes are actually kinda intersting looking. I don't know about bullet holes, but I'm getting some serious nurgle vibes just looking at them and it makes me want to experiment.

>> No.72465976


>> No.72465977

Prefect conversion fodder for a casualty marker.

>> No.72465997


the thing with holes that big, and especially with one being in his chest, is it raises the question "how is this dude alive?

>> No.72466005

this guy gets it

>> No.72466036

I tried to keep it shallow. The look I am going for is a successful block in the armor. So a bullet hit, but his armor saved him.

I was reading the rules and apparently armor save is a thing so I wanted to simulate it in the model. So far just failure but I'll get it.

>> No.72466060

That is an awesome idea! When I didn't have chalk on it it would pull out stringy material from the center.

This may be a perfect technique for blight.

>> No.72466179


I think everyone got it he's just the guy who said it.

>> No.72466187


be hell on your drill though.

>> No.72466273

Yeah, I'm a moron. What is the point of going to art school if I can't recall shit? I'm probably going to do more tomorrow and start on the others I have. Might do a small army since it's pretty simple and doesn't require my usual effort and time commitment. Hobby ADHD, though.

>> No.72466298

Which one for iron warriors armor?

1. Heavy drybrush of leadbelcher over black primer.
2. Normally painted leadbelcher over black primer.
3. GW leadbelcher spray.

All of them were washed with nuln oil.

>> No.72466342

I recommend trying the first one, but with brown primer.

>> No.72466386

i have an idea using materials in pic related

wish me luck

>> No.72466481

Break a leg.

>> No.72466624

I'll break six

what else do i need for a counts-as trygon kitbash

>> No.72466658

reworking the skin
100 scything talons?

>> No.72466661

That's a big roll of greenstuff. Have fun.

>> No.72466753


Tentacles, all of the tentacles.

>> No.72466796

forgive me /wip/ for i have sinned

any suggestion on this? last one will be rainbow or poop with little corns

>> No.72466827

Force-fed cock

>> No.72466893

That second one has the darker tone to it I favor with my own IW, but I’m clearly biased.

>> No.72467011

Some black wash between the nurglings. Visually separate them.

>> No.72467188

Anybody DIY cobbled together a 40k tech marine backpack or similar robot type stuff? Any advice for DIY with common materials?

>> No.72467211

I fucked up a bit but learnt some stuff for the next one! When he dries I'll touch him up and give him a matt spray varnish.

>> No.72467217

my my, what a big banner you have

>> No.72467227

I didn't quite realize how large it was gonna end up until I'd already put a ton of work into it but decided fuck it, they deserve the biggest banner they can get

>> No.72467281

I think the cultman should be in a red robe.

>> No.72467288

Looks good.

>> No.72467325

got a unit of stormcast done, nice and quick and pretty happy with how they've turned out.
Hopefuly I can keep this pace up and get the rest of the soul wars box painted up pretty quick

>> No.72467332

I think I'd change the Cultist robes a bit. It matches the spore too well, if that makes sense. Like I feel like he should be trying to imitate the color, but it's too close,/well done.

>> No.72467358


so is that just painted onto paper with the two haves glued together?

>> No.72467387

WIP Inquisitor Hector rex, his apprentice inquisitor, and their Red Hunters honor guard.
I plan to run them using deathwatch vet rules, with the apprentice inquisitor as a watch master, and have them all zip around in a corvus blackstar that I plan to not paint black.

>> No.72467391

yeah, it's a really thin paper though so that the glue holds it wavy like this better. it still feels a bit too flexible but maybe the next one I make will be better.

>> No.72467524

Thanks for the feedback anons.
Next question - any appreciable difference between the brass on these two?

>> No.72467582

i'm struggling to see any difference, maybe the one on the right is a tiny bit brighter but it's basically identical.

>> No.72467840

left is better. higher highlights, deeper shade. don't think it's just the model. it looks better but if they weren't side by side the right would look fine- it just falls a bit flat next to the brighter one (left)

>> No.72467944

They're the same

>> No.72467960


to my eyes no, but I am curious how they were done.

>> No.72467966


So where are you going to put the hazard stripes?

>> No.72468019

Thanks again anons. I didn't notice any significant difference between them either and I'm glad it wasn't just me.
The left one is normal brass scorpion brush-painted on, the right one is actually Sharpie bronze metallic marker.
Don't know yet. The aspie champs will probably have theirs on the left pauldron, normal marines maybe on half the greave or on the gun. I don't want to overdo the stripes and make them look silly.

>> No.72468057


neato, might have to look into some of those sharpies and give them a shot.

I ask about the stripes simply because there aren't really many flat surfaces to do them on with the new csm models.

>> No.72468085


did you do a wash after the sharpie/brass scorpion?

>> No.72468092

Yes, nuln oil again.

>> No.72468112

I think you should try and turn that texture to your advantage and try and make it part of the base instead of hiding it

>> No.72468129

Been considering painting my great possessed too. Might just make a start today

>> No.72468294


>> No.72468333

WIP of Tai Sheng. Everytime I paint power armor from infinity, I'm reminded why I hate heavy infantry

>> No.72468336


>> No.72468375

nice freehand

>> No.72468898

What dropper bottles would you recommend for storing mixes for an airbrush? I'm worried I'll fuck up the ratios on a specific mixture I've worked out for a basecoat if I come back to it, so I want to make a big batch of it.

>> No.72468921

he's ready to paint lads!

>> No.72469181

Not sure about those eyes, imo human like eyes would achieve a much more uncanny effect.

>> No.72469295

I've lost more than one bottle of glaze and wash paint to poorly made, leaky bottles so I recommend that you don't just buy the cheapest thing you can find. A bad quality bottle will have issues sealing and uncapping properly, most of the cheap bottles I used ended up being thrown away.
My recent preference has been for empty Vallejo brand bottles which are usually sold under the product number 70.095 or 70.096 on ebay. They're slightly different visually from Vallejo's regular bottles, but they are the same quality and size as a regular Vallejo bottle.

>> No.72469359

what model is that?

>> No.72469367

I know that's kind of stupid to ask, but
Can someone make a screen capture video of this tutorial?
It's was accessible to all in april, but now only for vault members. Thanks.

>> No.72469376

sign up for the free trial lol

>> No.72469386

I took about a week off painting and man it felt like a nice reset. Painting every day is brutal

Sicarian commission and some yellow fellows with axes and shields later this weekend

>> No.72469399

Awesome, thanks brother.

>> No.72469414

It's a 3d print, made by this Duncan Louca

cost me £5 but wanted something to test out my first 3d print, and I love painting nurgly shit, so it was fitting!

>> No.72469445

looks really nice, I love nurgle shit as well

>> No.72469541

You can't get free trial without paying money.

>> No.72469576

Anyone got any recommendations for what colour I should paint the rekt marine on Kharn's scenic base? I was going to do them as another world eater but i think it might detract from Kharn himself. I don't know much about colours but what scheme would let kharn take centre stage?

>> No.72469716

just do an opposing chapter to WE?

if u really cant decide just pick one of the loyalist ones with an contrasting color scheme to WE (Ironhands, HH dark angels, ravenguard, etc.)

>> No.72469785

I love these, great work

>> No.72470075


Really nice friend

>> No.72470128

>You can't get free trial without paying money.

>> No.72470391

Fucking filth.

>> No.72470504

These guys ended up a lot darker than I was first expecting. I think they turned out really great, nice brushwork on the cloth and cool basing too.

>> No.72470554

I'm in love with your colour scheme. It feels really futuristic to me, mating some drab with choice high contrast armor plates. Interested in seeing how much of this ends up with that fetching yellow.

>> No.72470786

Working on this guy.

>> No.72470869

Whats the active ingredient in wilko? Can you see it on the bottle? Want to try find something similar.

>> No.72470885

cool, what's he from?

>> No.72470892

See if an archive website has it

>> No.72470933

EC, the Skalathrax train has no brakes.

>> No.72471019

this because right is duller.

I always suspected this hobby was full of blind unartistic people. LOL, I'm old, eyes atrophied and can't see to paint without 4x cheaters but at least my brain can differentiate colors.

>> No.72471047

Looks great!

>> No.72471058

fuck off

>> No.72471062

Oathsworn Miniatures

>> No.72471073

That's cool as shit honestly, metallic paint is a nightmare.

>> No.72471159

you fukking wot? metallic is the easiest thing to paint, 1000% coverage and impossible to make it look bad. and actually using a sharpie to color a mini is not going to be a picnic. But knock yourself out, I kinda want to see a bunch of anons jumping on sharpies in a paint thread.

>> No.72471198

More paint slapped on him, gonna go back over the skin and highlight it up a bit more then on to the gnarly bits!

>> No.72471300

Just bought Super clean, about to strip 2 layers of Primer off an Armiger. 1 layer is a week old, the other is about 2 years old. Should I just throw the model in a container and forget about it for a week or 3?

>> No.72471708

Honest question:

Why do you need to thin paints? Shouldn't the manufacturers know that they are going to be thinned? Why not thin them ahead of time then? I know you thin them to various degrees but I would have thought that an arbitrary amount of thinner would be included in their recipe already.

>> No.72471721

Yes, but I have been told that sun exposure helps for some reason.

>> No.72471901

yes i did get the idea from him, i even bought the same halloween skull

>> No.72471910

because if I wanted to buy a glaze I'd buy a glaze

>> No.72471930

Contrast paints are pre thinned

>> No.72471949

Because sometimes I want to glaze, sometimes I want to turn them into a wash and sometimes I want to basecoat. Do you expect me to buy the same color three times but with different consistencies? Not only that, but you also get more use out of a single bottle by thinning instead of using pre-thinned stuff.

>> No.72472040

Don't give GW ideas

>> No.72472170

Base, Layer, Edge and Dry paints already exist.

>> No.72472216

Imagine buying those. Imagine buying every GW paint and not mixing your own colours.

>> No.72472232

>imagine not buying multiple paints from multiple brands and having a selection that fits what you're doing

>> No.72472314

So IDK about FW, but i got a creature caster resin demon a while back. It had reservoirs that looked nearly that big, but it was mostly just super thin creep up the wall.

>> No.72472851

I mean they are. Just look at craft paints vs. anything in a pot/bottle for minis. And don't even get me started on "air" paints.

>> No.72472911

So, I have been painting up my army and am a bit more then half way when I ran out of my can of pic related, and while I like it, that shit cost's a lot, I might just pick up a can of white/bone white plain undercoat, anyone have any experience of the contrast undercoat vs normal white spray or even just white primer?

>> No.72473013

Does this head look too big? I really like how silly it looks. Should I bulk out the shoulders?

>> No.72473057

Probably better to redo the head than attempt to make the entire rest of the mini look heroic scale unfortunately.

>> No.72473070

God damn, but the helmet is so cool.

>> No.72473096

Unless you're really good at greenstuffing you're basically going to have to bulk out the entire historical sculpt to make it look appropriate. Its possible but not sure if you're down for that.

>> No.72473098

it's one of the perry kits right? if you are dead set on using that head I'd say the best way to make it fit scalewise is to cut off the figurehead bit and stick it on top of a perry head. it will still look silly but the head will just look top heavy instead of oversized

>> No.72473109

this feels like a waifu request on the drawthread

>> No.72473143

how is Falls Church this time of year? Not too humid yet I hope.

>> No.72473165

he just gets mad and tries to talk about being vegan

>> No.72473188

it's fucking fine. matches the one on his body.

>> No.72473190

Get an airbrush to prime

>> No.72473218

I got tired of having only two kinds of rippers, am I on to something here?

>> No.72473226

>complaining about price
>just buy a airbrush 5head

>> No.72473240

it looks like it's escaped from a questionable japanese porn comic, I like it.

>> No.72473260

You can get a cheap airbrush and compressor for the price of 4 of those wraithbone cans. You go ahead and do the math.

>> No.72473265

I figured it should be crawling up on something.

>> No.72473291

Imagine buying lighter colour paints when can just add white. Miniature painting consumerism is an insult to artistry. I bet people buy "flesh" tones instead of mixing their own which creates variation. Unironically.

>> No.72473303

I like his hat

>> No.72473311

Not as blurry edition, I'm not a photographer.

>> No.72473335

Do you have Parkinson's? Your hands must be shaking like a madlad to take pictures this shitty.

>> No.72473373

Brace your arms on something at least, you can get a good light box in the states for 10~ $$.
No one can tell what's going on in those pics. Also it isn't necessary to include a picture that is 2.37 mb and crazy resolution for mini's that aren't in focus

>> No.72473375

I'm blaming the shitty phone camera

>> No.72473392

You're painting an army it sounds like, and it sounds like you will do more after, at a certain point spray cans (and fucking contrast spray cans at that) are a much more significant investment cost wise than the one time purchase of an air brush

>> No.72473418

its a 2.37 mb file with fuck huge resolution. You don't understand lighting, focus, or a taking a steady shot. Please look into those things and dont blame the fact that you spent 600$ on tech you dont know how to use...

>> No.72473491

>adding white to make a lighter colour
enjoy your washed out pastel colours

>> No.72473501

I use Krylon and Rustoleum 2X Primer and it is perfectly fine for most minis. If there's a mini that is too delicate for that stuff you're better off using paint on primer anyways.

>> No.72473592

Who makes the best tmm paints? Also, is a bad idea to use a quick spray of white primer from above a mini to establish some highlights?

>> No.72473622

Is that a mouth with teeth and tentacles coming out? I guess I'm insane now lol.

I'd add a ton of gloss to the pink parts to make it looks sick and disgusting. The teeth could use another highlight, maybe in a bone color to differentiate it. Not sure if you have ever worked with spit slime effects but now would be as good a time as any to learn how.

>> No.72473858

TMM is just regular paints, right? There's always Vallejo for their autistically huge variety of shades of every color premixed for you.

>> No.72473976

Does anyone have any idea what the 'acrylic putty' is, that is used as mortar on the bricks and plaster on the walls at 4:52? My google searches led me to Vallejo 'Plastic Putty', but also some indications that this may actually just be (household) filler - does anybody have any idea?


>> No.72473993


>> No.72474037

Anyone have thoughts on adding camo to these dudes? I was considering adding either desert ish camo fatigues or woodland camo armor.

>> No.72474040

Tmm is true metallic metal.

>> No.72474113

In my exp in design engineering, they print the FDM thing, then the model maker takes Hours or Weeks to make that FDM into product presentable. If this is a function item that will be made of metal or what have you, sales folks never see that shit.

>> No.72474120

So regular paints, guess I should have specified as it being non metallic paint. Vallejo is a good standard that wont break the bank if you need lots of specific colors.

>> No.72474164

I'm not sure what about this feels so poorly worded but I have no idea what the fuck you're trying to say.

>> No.72474287 [DELETED] 

Are you drunk or ESL? I'm clearly telling you to look at Vallejo's line if you want paints for your NMM needs, or are you too mentally stunted to look up what colors people use and need a spoonfed kit that tells you how to paint by numbers?

>> No.72474346

Nevermind, I just realized you made up a term and thought you mean NMM. Just use metallic paints. True metallic metal, what the fuck.

>> No.72474362

When the fuck did I say anything about nmm? And using "regular" paints as a description is incredibly non descriptive.

>> No.72474378

I'm just looking for opinions on different brands tmm's. So far not very happy with citadel.

>> No.72474419

Vallejo again is a good start. I thought you were meaning NMM as no one I know says TMM, they just say metallic.

>> No.72474458

TMM =/= Metallic paint
TMM is non metallic metal techniques applied using metallic paints

>> No.72474470

tmm is not the same as just metallic

>> No.72474479

Ahahahaha it literally is an abbreviation for true metallic metal
Thank you anon

>> No.72474481

True metallic metal is just metallic paint. This is autistic as fuck and we're making up terms that aren't necessary.

>> No.72474499

It is literally the same thing as you're using metallic paints. Its a redundant term that shouldn't exist.

>> No.72474509

Sorry I've just heard tmm used frequently from various painting related stuff that I've seen.

>> No.72474520

fucking brainlets i swear to god.

TMM indeed does use metallic paints, but its not ''just'' using metallic. It's a series of techniques just like NMM

>> No.72474549

I didn't make up the term. It's a recognised term among competent painters. Search it up and you'll find videos of it

>> No.72474577

But they can be used interchangeably. I could also ask what paints work well for a particular technique, and the answer would be almost the same.

>> No.72474607

Yes and no. TMM uses non metallic paints as well as metallic paints so if you asked for good paints for TMM you may get non metallic recommendations

>> No.72474611


>> No.72474721

tmm is layering and shading your metal parts with metalic paints so no

>> No.72474765

that is a fucking nice water effect

>> No.72474848

it looks a hell of a lot like straight up artists acrylic out of a tube.

or this:

>> No.72475009

When you say artists’ acrylic (forgive me for being dense) do you just mean acrylic paint? Because he explicitly says it is grey paint mixed with ‘acrylic putty’.

I will check out that product you’ve linked to, thank you. Anyone else got any ideas?

>> No.72475086

maybe do some green stuff shoulders for it

>> No.72475261

Not him but thats a glass table you fucking mong

>> No.72475291


>> No.72475317

>but also some indications that this may actually just be (household) filler
it's that or some equivalent

>> No.72475422

>(household) filler
pretty sure that's exactly what the big tub is

>> No.72475493

radical work my dude

>> No.72475533


>> No.72475860

Does anyone make accessories and little bits that can be used to make some kits more Inquisitiony looking? I'm talking =][=s, etc.

>> No.72475876

Archer platforms

>> No.72475981

Friendship ended with Dana Howl, now Darcy Bono is my best friend


>> No.72475990

I fucking love these.
Is that a Lego grill bit on the base of the lascannon guy?

>> No.72476062


For me, it's Sheplaysgames. She has a bunch of simps but she actually posts stuff on the Middlehammer pages, and she's Polish or something so you just know she can cook

>> No.72476080

I have a strong feeling something is wrong with the beard but I can't understand what it is. Can you point me to the problem?

>> No.72476110

I think you've gone too yellow, you need to be more selective with it

>> No.72476137

when are they just going to switch to dropper bottles, there's no advantage to their shitty pots.

>> No.72476142


It looks a bit... Plastic? Especially in contrast to the muted flesh.

Also, in real hair the highlights are the thinner whispy bits around the edges, and not the thick bits which are usually darker.

It does look good though, but since you're asking.

>> No.72476158


Never, that would be too convenient

>> No.72476253

First attempt at airbrushing. What am I doing wrong?

>> No.72476401

spraying too far away maybe, might have something to do with the heat in your room. or the paint isn't thinned enough. lots of things can make your paint uneven.

>> No.72476455

make sure you pass the paint through the brush for a while before you apply it to the model

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