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[ERROR] No.56265589 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>DIY Spraybooth

>DIY Wet Palette

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:

>The Bloody Hand will point the way!

>Previous Thread(s):

>> No.56265611

Don't have too much left on this guy and his 14 brothers.

>> No.56265761

Whoever was responsible for Furioso Dread or the Dread model in general needs a god damn raise.

Easy to assemble, you have all the bits for all the weapon options AND you dont even need to magnetize to use them!
And them Im glancing to my nids and want to cry because you need to magnetize the fuck out of them for all weapons.

>> No.56266072

>tfw one dude wins 3 catagories in AOP and you win 0

>> No.56266174


At least you didn't have to stand by while this took home the gold.

>> No.56266218

Wat, no one else?

>> No.56266270

Is this a joke?

>> No.56266379

>Is this a joke?

I wish it were. The competition that year (2016) wasn't particularly fierce, but it got more votes than you'd think a "joke" entry should reasonably get.

>> No.56266418

Oh shit, this is my GW.

>> No.56266464

>Oh shit, this is my GW.

What was AOP like this year at your store, since the rules (one day for AOS, a separate day for WH40K) and categories changed?

>> No.56266540

How should I go about making red purity seals stand out against red? (Yes I know most people make the seal a different color.) It looks like the usual way is to just wash the seal a lot darker, is that the best option?

>> No.56266573

>GW are advertising their new model painting handle
>"works with 25mm, 32mm and 40mm bases"
>pictured with a model sold with a 50mm base, the Lord of Contagion


To be fair it looks handy though, I usually blu-tack the model to an old-style paint pot.

Does anyone know of any other handles like this, that work for miniatures already on bases?

>> No.56266617

>How should I go about making red purity seals stand out against red?

Well, aside from making your purity seals green, which is what I do fer my ladz in red armour, you could make them a deeper red. In fact, that's the official colour (a red-violet, really) for Blood Angels' purity seals per GW.

>> No.56266706

>>Does anyone know of any other handles like this, that work for miniatures already on bases?


Im doing the same as you, but its rather annoying sometimes and I prefer the holder from above because of the rod for your finger.
Dunno if its worth it, atleast GW hasnt fucked up this time, the holder is rather cheap.

>> No.56266789

I didn't go this year, so I couldn't tell you.

Our store has a few good painters, and a few bad ones. There's a guy that I know for a fact who posts in these /wip/ threads, has a classic Blood Angels army that he enters every year.

I generally don't hang out at that GW though. It's the only place that sells Games-Workshop kits in Denton and it's one of the better GW stores I've been to, but it's still a GW and comes with all the trappings that entails. When I want hobby stuff, I usually drive an hour south towards Dallas to one of the more local stores.

>> No.56266806



I think for £5 I might actually purchase something from GW for once.

>> No.56266810

was that in the youngbloods or first army catagory?

>> No.56266811


Oh, I meant to look up the official Blood Angels scheme, and then forgot. DIfferent hue as well as shade is doable, thanks!

>> No.56266842

i just do yellow seals

>> No.56266959

I just ordered 200 of the em4 orcs that I will be converting up and making a KoW army. Wish me luck anons.

Pic related

>> No.56267091

This is what I use. The pedestal is a lazy Susan so I can rotate it freely when I'm airbrushing.

>> No.56267117

Screamer pink. Highlight with emperors children pink. Your choice of wash

>> No.56267209

Black helmet guardians are done just need to paint the rims of the bases not sure what colour though. Just need to redo the soulstones on the bone helmet ones.

>> No.56267244

Nicely done anon

>> No.56267258

What brown should I use to paint the wooden parts of a Krieg lasgun ?

>> No.56267310


Look forward to seeing it mate, I was planning on doing a Dwarf army for KoW for less than £20 the same way.

>> No.56267382

This has probably been asked before, how would you paint this kind of "white wood" effect?

Any guides out there? My issue is that I have a round, soft treeman from a boardgame rather than pointy, edgy Dryads like this which you can drybrush away.

>> No.56267494

I'd unironicly consider a textured primer for grtty bark effect.

>> No.56267521

If you have access to a 3d printer, you can make one.

>> No.56267543

So I've noticed my Nuln oil seems a bit milky grey, seems like it doesn't go on very strong at all. Is this how it's supposed to be? Did I maybe not shake it enough or is it a bad batch?

>> No.56267570

>Did I maybe not shake it enough or is it a bad batch?

Do you have a glacket in your pot? Try adding some glass beads or cut up chunks of sprue before shaking. Stay away from BB's that will ozidize.

>> No.56267827

Anyone have any good sites for buying either bulk swords with no hands attached and female models?

>> No.56267923

>Anyone have any good sites for buying either bulk swords with no hands attached

Check out the pastebin in the OP.

>and female models?

Victoria Miniatures seems to be pretty popular around here.

>> No.56268298

What's the best recommended brushes to paint with? I'm seeing nothing but praise about Winsor Newton

>> No.56268323

What head is that?

>> No.56268325

>not painting them in superior black polymer

>> No.56268387

Shitty brushes are unironically the best

>> No.56268499

>WW1-themed army
>Black polymer stocks

>> No.56268544

I laughed when I saw that but to be honest if buy one for £5.

>> No.56268618

Posted my warlock engi few weeks back, finaly took the time to base it. Need a second coat of White on the rim though.

Maybe work on a Brown base then drybrush/layer your way to White ?

>> No.56268689


is this for sale or not?

>> No.56268853

Not yet, I think.

>> No.56268941

>tfw dude wins 4/5 categories
he deserved it

>> No.56268957

Here's a start:

I'm not sure how they did the blue effect though. Looks maybe like they were actually basecoated in something like stegadon green or maybe the fang, washed (more at the bottom), then drybrushed with a light grey & then white (heavier at the top)

Possible that the blue is a glaze, wash, first highlight or even a trick of the light, though

>> No.56268958

>not replacing your shitty wooden stock with a superior archangel stock
>then putting it on lasgunbroker for 1000 thrones
No lowball offers I know what I got.

>> No.56269554

So as it gets colder and I have mounds of grey plastic to paint, folks have been recommending black gesso. However, while Liquitex was apparently the recommended brand for a long while, apparently they changed their formula a ways back, and not in a good way. Anyone here prime with black gesso? Google has some info, but a lot of it is more than 3 years old.

>> No.56269661

I use black gesso regularly. Purchased it about 2 months ago. Shit is great. Works with airbrush or brush. Goes on thick, dries thin.

>> No.56269781

Swords would be Anvil Industriy I think. Female is Victoria Models for sure.

>> No.56269930

Which brand do you recommend, and do you thin it before brush application? I'm getting mixed reports on that.

>> No.56269955

How do yall decide color schemes for your armies?

I've been painting for a while but its been for DnD, not mini wargaming. I'm suddenly frozen trying to pick my scheme out, and I don't want it to be vanilla colored.

Picked up Operation Red Veil for Infinity, I'm fielding the currently Yellow army, YuJing, on the left of the image.

>> No.56269975


Use 1:1 water:gesso mix with brush and airbrush.

>> No.56270060

Basically I'd go with whatever I feel would look cool on a mini.
Use your favorite color, looks at some artwork, a paintjob on a racing car or your local sportsteam.

If you got your main color the rest is just finding a secondary and the accent.

You can also throw the picture you posted here into Photoshop and just play around with it.
Swap the color channels, slide the hues around, make adjustment layers for selective channel mixing, do a paintover or whatever.

For the last colorscheme I made I just color picked some images I liked and put them into a pallette.
>pic related
There are also online tools for webdesign that can help you out with the color combinations, if you are not big on color theory.

>> No.56270095

>How do yall decide color schemes for your armies?

I refer to the source material I like the best and ignore everything that comes after which might change it.

>> No.56270231

Sons of Horus Reaver.

>> No.56270445

Which arm pose?

>> No.56270448

>rare RT squig miniature
>didn’t even fill the gaps in the base with spackle
The absolute state.
Ours was breddy gud, all marines unfortunately but the winner was very nice, especially the weathering on the knights at the back

>> No.56270492

How do yall feel about metallics? Do you prefer NMM or normal metallics?

>>Basically I'd go with whatever I feel would look cool on a mini.
>>Use your favorite color
That's what I was planning, working around Purple as the base color. I just wanted to branch out from the possibility of using Yellow as the secondary.

Color theory wise I could do Purple, yellow-orange, and green. Or box it on the color wheel and do Purple, orange, teal, and yellow. I'm just indecisive.

Are there any color suggestions to not field? I know a lot of people have an issue with straight Yellow.

My friend is taking the other half of the box, with a Tan, red, and bone white scheme we worked through together.

I just don't like a lot of their source material color schemes. Orange/yellow isn't my thing. I guess I could pull from other source material and rock that...

>> No.56270527

Very nice. FW stuff is unfortunately banned at my store. I say unfortunately because my main army is a Horus Heresy Word Bearers force so I couldn't participate

>> No.56270537 [DELETED] 

bottom one

>> No.56270601

Even counts as models?

>> No.56270604

Second one. Looks more dynamic, and shows the obvious advantage of having four arms.

>> No.56270649

Hmm I don't know, I guess. It's banned because last year people only voted for armies that had a big centre piece like a thunderhawk or a bio titan even if paintwork was meh and the board was plain

>> No.56270654

Paint a practice model and stand 3 feet from it. Does it still look good with your color choices? You can do color theory all you want but the finished product with weathering, basing, etc. is just gonna be its own thing.

>> No.56270670

>Color theory wise I could do Purple, yellow-orange, and green. Or box it on the color wheel and do Purple, orange, teal, and yellow. I'm just indecisive.
Don't forget the tones too. You also don't have to use another color if you don't want to.
Purple and white would be fine. Could fill all the inbetweens with greys, tans or browns or blacks.
As long you take care to make one the clear primary you could also use a blue or even red to harmonize.

There's a lot of stuff you can do.

Personally I like straight yellow btw, but you have to be able to paint it. A lot of people just don't have the patience to do the necessary amounts of thin even coats.

>> No.56270743

First one is has more visual appeal at eye-level it with the upright swords, but from above I think the bottom one might look better. More threatening for sure.

>> No.56270888

Yall have been great, thank you for the advice.

Do yall limit your schemes to 2-3 colors, barring the necessary highlight colors?

Luckily they provide us with three basic ass models that are relatively trash in game and visually, so I'll do what you said with those three.

I haven't ever done straight yellow, but my friend is interested in a yellow for another army so I'll have to figure it out.

>> No.56270913

Neither. Make a dynamic pose, its a freaking hive tyrant, god dammit.
He's not gonna stand around, strike a pose and cross his swords when he's supposed to be chopping his enemies.

>> No.56270914

First time painting
Things I've noticed:
Painting with gold sucks
This CSM head's eyes and teeth are annoying

>> No.56270931

>I guess I could pull from other source material and rock that...

Now you're thinking!

>> No.56270973

Thats really breddy gud for your first time. Is that a transfer or a freehand on his shoulder?
Also, the model could use some shading and highlights.
Otherwise well done, anon. Welcome to the eternal torment that is painting plastic army men.

>> No.56271017

Do a double brown wash on the gold before hitting the edges with some kind of silver color and you'll gain a lot of depth.

>> No.56271057

Transfer (My third attempt after two ruined ones)
I did a little tiny bit of shading but I guess it's not really visible, and I was too afraid to do highlights for this one, I'll try on the the next one.

Thanks for the tip, I was already using earthshade on the gold to dull it down, I will try that next time.

>> No.56271078

my advice for painting gold is do a basecoat of brown first, it makes applying the gold a lot easier

>> No.56271110

A lot better than many first timers, don't muck it up. Mostly clean, some bits on the backpack could be cleaned up. Like the other posts, throw in some shade. Or if you did, leave more of it visible. You don't want to leave a tiny sliver visible, these models will be seen from around 3ft away when played.

If you don't have a thinner brush, try to pick one up. It makes bits like the eyes a lot easier, less cleanup.

>> No.56271114

>see a guy on ebay selling his (pictured) DKOK army for 38 USD
>explicitly said in description that what was pictured was what was being sold
>check profile
>"Based in China, [seller] has been an eBay member since Oct 09, 2017"

have I been scammed

>> No.56271130


Seems too good to be true, I hope you can get the money back just in case.

>> No.56271132

If you've been scammed, it was only 38 bucks. If you weren't, you got a ton of shit for 38 bucks.

>> No.56271146

Yes, you have. If it's legit please post some pictures when it arrives, it would be amazing

>> No.56271168

I wanna say yeah, you've been scammed.

There's been a lot of brand new china accounts stealing other people's pics of massive mini collections/armies and making fake, cheap listings from what I have seen.

>> No.56271199


Hmm, the window of delivery is between Nov30th-Dec7th, if it's a scam I think recouping it on my CC won't be too hard.

But I've heard of people selling armies for cheap because they're in a pinch, I'm hopeful, but I'm very apprehensive

>> No.56271275

If you collect models I suppose 38 usd isn't a big deal for you anon. I hope you get lucky though!

>> No.56271281

I also remember some 4 eyed bitch that painted pretty meh and wouldbt shut up about her lizardmen - who happe ed to have a shit color scheme - Let met tell ya. These golden daemons of the WHFest have lost prestiege. Back in the last decade games days the competition was a spectacle!

>> No.56271330


It isn't but 38 USD could've been put to better use

I'm doing more and more digging and I'm really tempted to opt out, seems way too fishy, and the delivery date is (in my mind) far away so that you forget about it...

>> No.56271398

Deliveries from China tend to be long as fuck if that helps you decide what to do

>> No.56271580


99% convinced it's a scam; the idea is you get a box with a bauble or junk, ask to return and refund, but you have to pay the return fee to China, which is like 60 bucks.

Sorry to hype you up lads, but you can imagine my child-like giddiness when pressing the "Buy" icon.

>> No.56271641 [DELETED] 

I tried to do more realistic tones, the carapace I'm happy with but the skin is eh. I wanted the bone and weapons to kinda blend into the skin but i don't know.
Hows it look so far and what could I do to fix the skin up?

>> No.56271951

All right, I'll give it a shot. Thank you.

>> No.56272001

Yikes, what nozzle are you airbrushing with, and how's your brush look afterwards? Gesso contains (simulated) gypsum, that could be thashing your mix chamber.

>> No.56272089

Don't be hopeful, its a scam, ebay will refund you no problem though. I didn't buy a huge lot like that, but it was also a new china account with really cheap stuff. Just get your money back now, you can google search their photos and find the original ebay listing of that item.

>> No.56272112

While I can't paint the missing models from my AoP board in a way wip doesn't like, I did a little work on a daemon weapom for a warpsmith. Should have used less material for the outline and there are quite a few things things I have to correct later on. I really should be using a refence image for this, but I didn't, and I'm quite sure I ended up with something rather different from the image I remember halfway and couldn't find again. While this is not the first time I try my hand at sculpting, it is the firts time I try to put a three dimensional face on two dimensional surface. Surprisingly it looks better from the angles I forgot to check, than the one I worked with. Also, check out the filename for something unrelated.

>> No.56272205

Currently building my Mantis Warrior Bike captain. I got a DG friend of mine to give me his "fly" helmet so my captain can have a cool "bug-like" helmet. I've removed the tongue and greenstuffed up the boils and battledamage, but I feels like I should add some more stuff to it. I'm toying with the idea of a helmet crest like normal marines have, or perhaps some mandibles near the mouth?

>> No.56272208


>Just get your money back now, you can google search their photos and find the original ebay listing of that item.

Already cancelled, trying to google back the image but I'm not getting anything

in any case, recently finished Tson with bolter, what does /wip/ think?

>> No.56272232


here's the soulreaper variant

>> No.56272245

Sweet. I love that jade gem in his chest

>> No.56272253


And the first guy I started with outta the bunch

>> No.56272280

>I'm toying with the idea of a helmet crest like normal marines have, or perhaps some mandibles near the mouth?

Either of those options sound totally boss, especially considering your chapter's heraldry.

>> No.56272454

I think thess organic and more helmet like is a good idea. the big bug eyes are nice but making the rest of the helmet look more normal would probably work

>> No.56272621

Was it rigged or something? Did they're friends do all the voting? None of these boards are particularly stunning but this one is leagues ahead of that Chase shit.

>> No.56272713

Ice themed skaven, cool

>> No.56272856

dont those teeth rip the shit out of the feet?

>> No.56272874

Finished my first Vanguard, thou thinking he needs some weathering.

>> No.56272894

>I have much more fucking money than you, so I get to win the contest.

Fucking thinly veiled parallel to the modern times aint it?

>> No.56272919

Oh you're that guy. The guy whose store manager is literally breaking the rules of the competition because he's a raging shitstain.

>> No.56272942

Bull, the guy had more money buts it not like him having money also made him an excellent painter. Those minis look great and so does the overall composition. It's obviously from someone who has money but has also put in the time into the hobby over the years to get to that skill level of painting.

>> No.56273020

>Was it rigged or something? Did they're friends do all the voting?

In a manner of speaking, yes. There was obviously a group of friends who colluded to put this entry ahead of the others. Everybody else was just voting for what they liked best, which varied by personal taste. Those ladz don't really come around the shop too much anymore, but, like >>56266789, I didn't attend this year - had too much personal stuff to deal with and 250K NASCAR fans clogging up the highways around my home - so it's anybody's guess.

I *can* say that the Inner Circle competition earlier this year was indeed intense and *very* serious, so I wouldn't have been surprised with a raft of good 40K entries.

Checking the store's FB page, I can confirm there was indeed some cool stuff, including this Nurgle army that I had been wanting to see, as I know the fellow who painted it.

>> No.56273034

Different anon, maybe different store manager, but he is allowed to do that, I asked on the warhammer 40k facebook page some time ago, this was their reply:
>Armies on Parade is a local event at your shop; the Store Manager there is in control of it and it is his/her discretion as to what the rules of the competition there are. Forge World is not a third party company; it is part of Games Workshop but equally, our stores can't sell it over the till. The store manager does reserve the right to make that call if they so wish.

>> No.56273062

>Bull, the guy had more money buts it not like him having money also made him an excellent painter.

Yeah it does. See: all those people who commission their armies and then collect painting score points at tournaments.

>> No.56273098

I suppose you are not from my store, are you from Spain?

>> No.56273126

Germany, I posted the progress of my board here the last few weeks. Mentioned the FW stuff in the beginning of it.

>> No.56273202

Then it happens in various stores.

>> No.56273288

I really like the way the heat on the jetpack was done. How did you manage it?

I'm organising all my bitz tonight. Surrounded by boxes of sprues right now.

>> No.56273311

>I'm organising all my bitz tonight.

Label them. You'll forget what goes where after a night or two of sleep.

>> No.56273337


bullshit, GW has a pro forge world policy.

name of store and manager please.

>> No.56273363


why do GW shop owners even do this, FW is literally GW

>> No.56273378

Does anyone know where the base model for this Lady Malys conversion is from? Couldn't spot it scanning though the GW webstore but a bunch of people seem to have used it, and I feel like making a pimped-out version with Yvraine's sword and fan on a scenic base would be a cool YourDudes way of doing Malys for my hypothetical Deldar army.

>> No.56273384

I'm in Florida and its the same here. We have some stores that do that. Our closest that does this actually bans you as a person if they recognize any FW products, or for that model anything that isn't strictly GW made. Ridiculous shit.

Luckily we have a comic book store that runs tables and doesn't give a flying fuck about what you use/bring as long as its viable.

>> No.56273403

Using army painter,paints. Was just Alien Purple, then edge highlights of Warlock purple (pink) and then washed it with Citadel Leviathan purple.

>> No.56273413

I won't give you the name, it's the only hobby related store in my zone and I don't want them to have problems. Read the thread and you'll see that it has happened in other stores

>> No.56273417

Never mind, it's just the Lhamaean. I'm blind, and was looking at Dark Elves instead of Dark Eldar. Guess she'll need more than two part swaps to look unique, but should still work just fine.

>> No.56273452

I know my manager out here for my local GW has a "I would ban it if I could" attitude, but that seems to imply that he cant

>> No.56273476

A lot of GW stores ignore that though. It's a common story.

>> No.56273562

Yea the GW near me is really depending on who is running it that day, one guy is a nazi in control over it to the point where he will a.) tell you can bring it in to play with b.) "accidentally" break a piece to see if it is not a chinaman. The other guy does not give a shit and has a chinaman warlord that he brings in to work on lol

>> No.56273587


>> No.56273623

>"accidentally" break a piece
That's horrible.
People who intentionally destroy other people's models deserve to have a piano dropped on their head.
Clonks my bongles.

>> No.56273637

>accidentally" break a piece to see if it is not a chinaman.
What a complete cunt...

>> No.56273676

Hit the nazi guy attacked my friend becaue we were talking about if the emperor had a text-to-speech device and said it was dumb and we should be wasting others time talking about parody to the others, which one of them was interested in the game fair to say the guy left because he made him feel uncomfortable.

>> No.56273693

There's a reason why like no one is there when he is running it. He also like attacks new people coming into the store about buy shit like he does not know how to be a good salesman.

>> No.56273715

Oh there was a little bit of orange in there too.. Was trying to get this effect, but couldn't. So just settled.

>> No.56273761


1 of 2

>> No.56273777


2 of 2

>> No.56273897

Keked at how they didn't change the names of anything that wasn't trademarked

>> No.56273911

>spilled my pot of primer
>quickly got it off the floor
>used as much of the paint before it dried
On the bright side, I wasn't planning on promising my gaunts but now they're primed

>> No.56273983

I have known some people that's literally like that. Luckily now my local gw store employees are cool guys and don't even try to force you to buy stuff which is a complaint that I have seen a lot about gw stores

>> No.56274151

I managed to win best painted for the AoS AOP.
It was my first time entering, so I couldn't be happier with the result, especially since my entry was like, half the size of the others.

>> No.56274226

I know this was a young bloods entry, but i mean come on... grey fucken models, there should be some standards.

>> No.56274252

I think i´ll call this one finished, except for the base. What do you guys think?

Also is there anything more statisying than seeing progress in your painting skill? I really feel like i begin to get the brush control down.

>> No.56274303

i mean as long people arent giving him votes just because he is a kid, its ok

so maybe he can learn that this grey stuff isnt really apreciated

>> No.56274306

I'm trying to paint a dark marble statue, anyone have any advice/tutorials?

>> No.56274307

was considering getting a bag to make Ork armies to sell to friends who wanted to get into 40k but thought it was expensive. Post pics as you convert them!

>> No.56274327

>I'm trying to paint a dark marble statue, anyone have any advice/tutorials?

I have this one. Does it help?

>> No.56274331

Looking good! Have enjoyed watching the progress on this one & the colour scheme has worked out well

>> No.56274352

Fuck! Nice I needed a tut on marble too. So this has worked out well for me!

>> No.56274355

Not him but saved, thanks for sharing

>> No.56274356

thanks for that

>> No.56274411


>> No.56274456

Very nice, also I’m stealing that yellow/black chequered thing, I never thought about using any colour but white

>> No.56274478

Im actually getting pic related ready for a competition at my flgs this January. Im allowed to sculpt and prime him, just no painting until a month before the judging (have to bring the mini in as proof that it's unpainted before hand)

This will be my first ever painting tourny. Hoping the judges have some Lamenters love for my Malakim Phoros.

>> No.56274521

How do I do moss/dirt/overgrowth on necrons well?

>> No.56274576

Anyone retire their marinelets for Primaris? Everyone is either Primaris only, mixed, or marinelet only. Even the guys who prefer Primaris mix and I've never heard of someone converting from marinelet to pure Primaris, at least for the power armored units.

>> No.56274581

pick a setting for the kind of weathering and a material for your minis.
Then start looking for references of what that actually looks like.
If you need anything concerning actual painting techniques, the mega folder either here or in the /40kg/ has the weathering magazine issues. They cover various effects and climates each issue. Worth a look.

>> No.56274588

Kek. Saw these years ago. Viz is great.

>> No.56274616

>Everyone is either Primaris only, mixed, or marinelet only.
Those are literally the only three options. What are you even trying to say?

>> No.56274627

Hardly surprising. Who wants to paint the same army twice, just cause GW released another flavor of the month for Space Marines.

Only guys who are starting now or have a hardon for truescale marines are gonna make that effort.

>> No.56274630

Bought a metal reaper brand figurine of a gnome for my first DnD campaign. Whats a good primer for this brand/metal miniatures?

>> No.56274634

All the Primaris only guys started from Primaris. They may have played marines but they made an all Primaris force for "a new chapter" or "a second army".

>> No.56274648

I hate cleaning resin, so satisfying once it's all cleaned up though

>> No.56274663

If you are actually using a primer and not just a spraycan you are set.
You need to clean the models before priming though. The mold release agent can fuck with the primer and that'll lead to chipped paint further down the line.

>> No.56274671

Assembling Primaris Marines, the guns are connected to the arms so I have to assemble them completely or I have to paint the arms separately.

Doing it all separately seems like it is more trouble than it is worth.

What do you guys do? Just tabletop quality? I sort of figure if you can't see it on the tabletop then it really isn't that important? I'm not trying to win any golden daemons over here.

However, I would like to know what /wip/ does when you have parts of a model that are hard to reach with primer and a brush.

>> No.56274723

>However, I would like to know what /wip/ does when you have parts of a model that are hard to reach with primer and a brush.
The idea that you can't see it just because you can't reach it with a brush is somewhat misinformed. There are plenty of places to small or at a bad angle on any given mini that may make it hard or even impossible to paint plainly visible stuff.

Depends on what the models look like though. Do a dryfit and see if you think you could work with it.

>> No.56274889

Would do you guys think the main parts of the carapace of Tyranids look with this black marble effect? >>56274327

>> No.56274890

>unopened bags/clams

Oh boy, shiny new resin! Time to reduce my backlog!

>resin soaking in soapy water

Ha, that was easy! That counts as my hobby progress for the day!

>scrubbing and rinsing resin

UGH! Why is this taking so long! Why are there so many pieces?! Oh shit one of them also went down the sink! How many paper towels am I going to go through?!

>resin drying

Oh boy time to procrastinate!

>preparing resin

Fuck look at all that shit I have to scrape. Oh great, I might actually have to use something besides a knife to fix this shit. Why the fuck did we ever think resin is better than plastic, these details weren't worth it.

>resin is ready for priming

*Begin priming and painting emotional rollercoaster*

>> No.56274897

paint dirt texture paint green

>> No.56275063

Fuck look at all that shit I have to scrape. Oh great, I might actually have to use something besides a knife to fix this shit. Why the fuck did we ever think resin is better than plastic, these details weren't worth it.
that is exactly how i'm feeling right now

>> No.56275078

>However, I would like to know what /wip/ does when you have parts of a model that are hard to reach with primer and a brush.

Exactly what you're afraid I would do.

>> No.56275106

I got one of these from their kickstarter and the rod to place your finger on is invaluable for stability.

>> No.56275159

I've seen a lot of kickstarter holders, mostly MDF, including one that tried the rod gimmick but as a downwards handle instead. Never seen this one.

Just copying the pose in their photo with thin air I can already feel the stability, I might actually buy this.

>> No.56275168

I still have my Primaris in the box. Bangles are my loyalist marine army but I'm planning on using my Primaris along with some other Marines I don't have a use for to do something else with. Probably Crimson Fists.

>> No.56275181

Do you have the whole grip assembly, or just the top with rod? How much better/important is the grip?

>> No.56275245

Worked a bit more on it. How is it? Tried to do more realistic tones

>> No.56275259

The page said they'd go into retail on 29th of November. So it's a few weeks off.

>> No.56275346

Is something like Gesso okay to paint on then?

>> No.56275403

Hey guys, whats a good alternative to Imperial Primer brush primer? I do most of my painting indoors and I've gotten fine results from spray primers in the past. But the stocks of Imperial Primer have dried up it seems, or are discontinued, or something.
Anyway, what's a good alternative product with similar results?

>> No.56275421

I was excited, if only for a moment. If you could guess which one of the seven models shown in the first picture of this multi-listing eBay lot is sold out, which one do you think it would be?

>> No.56275476

Oh my fucking god I must have scrolled past that listing 12 times and didn't even notice

>> No.56275515

>cleaning resin

>> No.56275543


Should be. I've never done it myself, but some people swear by it.
From what I understand it may not hold up to frequent handling as well as a conventional primer though.
There are also Brush on primers by Vallejo that are supposedly good. Never tried those either though.

Maybe someone else can help you out with firsthand information.

>> No.56275554

Found some hobby time tonight, got a couple of sets of guys off their sprues and tidied up.

Wednesday is going to be a serious painting day.

>> No.56275576

These Skeletons are not only super awesome models, they also went together so incredibly easily and there were almost no mold lines to clean up.

Whoever tooled these sprues is a genius.

>> No.56275585

What is em4? Link to website?

These are nice looking models.

>> No.56275602

A pleasant surprise today was the arrival of these dudes.

They are the start of my undead pirate crew for Frostgrave Ghost Archipelago.

Now that they're here I can start working and order the Specialists and Leaders that I've picked out with Reaper.

>> No.56275637

excited to see how these turned out. your building a Frostgrave warband inspired me to do the same. i'm not as a fast a painter, but i'm slowly moving through my first warband.

>> No.56275660

>tfw you accidentally cut off a detail, thinking it's a moldline

>> No.56275698

my greatest fear

>> No.56275707

I have no idea what you're talking about.

>> No.56275718

I've done it at least twice so far with my warpsmith, but at least they were just tiny spikes.

>> No.56275748


>> No.56275751

I got just the top with the rod, it's pretty nice for keeping things very stable The whole thing is probably better but I have no complaints so far.

>> No.56276060

Is it worth it coughing up thirty quid or so for a few of those little five pound boxes of grunts? I kind of want to have a try at seeing what I really like the look of and guff

>> No.56276286

tempted to get some even just for frostgrave 2bh

>> No.56276402

I want to get these guys and the orks, still havn't finished painting my khorne warband yet so I'm trying to resist the urge

>> No.56276557

>Thinks Krieg has forests or indeed any trees at all.

>> No.56276595

Anyone know how blightking scale matches up to the new plague marine kits? I want to kitbash some of their weapons but I don't want them to be comically large.

>> No.56276725

My best bro is in the army, and he got transferred, permanently.
I'm probably never going to see him again.

I painted this in a single sleepless night as a gift.

I'm sad, /tg/.

I didn't even have a black primer, it's all white primer. Such a pain.

>> No.56276778

right, because there is no way the guy did the army himself. youre a fucking scrub

>> No.56276846

dwarf a cute

>> No.56276893

> Doesn't know about how everything in the Imperium is produced.

>> No.56276917

Got everything cleaned up and can move on to gap filling now.
model is blue tacked together just to see how it's going to go.
Can't decide if I want to give it the wings or the big claws though

>> No.56276944

working on my centigor

>> No.56277063

>20 tits
>not 18

>> No.56277113


If it's Slaaneshi, wouldn't asymmetry be appropriate?

>> No.56277115

The fuck is that model? Are they trying to go for the Kingdom Death aesthetic or something?

>> No.56277219

I don't think it'd be too much effort to get rid of a pair.
I think you're right, might just leave it like that
It's the "Lady of Depravity" by CreatureCaster

>> No.56277233

I had a blueshirt cut into my Russ model one day cause I couldn't produce a forgeworld receipt for it. I was pretty livid.

>> No.56277268

i think his names Fulgrim

>> No.56277290

If anyone tried to break my stuff at the very least I'd never go there again.

>> No.56277299


+1 to armor smoothness

>> No.56277366

I didn't go there a solid month cause I was pissed, but unfortunately its the only gaming store around my buddies will hang out

>> No.56277402


this is straight up destruction of property what the fuck?

>> No.56277425

yea no the whole group fucking agrees so I just don't buy shit from there anymore, I go out of my way to buy from the other store on the other side of town

>> No.56277457

Added some dirt to his legs and some scratches which don't show up very well on camera. Oh and gave him some script to make him look more like a veteran.

>> No.56277496

What would I even say? I brought china Russ into a GW, how would I even start to bring up that situation to customer service? Some faggot took the shit out of my case when I wasn't looking and left it on a gaming table, and I didn't even notice until I got a message the next day telling me to never bring it back.

>> No.56277524

W&N S7 are the best, but if you're not a confident painter and don't take best care of em, they're useless.
Buy W&N Cotman or Sceptre Gold, these are learner-to-hobbyist-artist grade watercolour brushes that hold their shape FAR better than GW brushes and let out the paint easier as well.

>> No.56277553


>I brought china Russ into a GW

There's a difference between

>Hey, anon, we can tell you've got a recast. Please, could you refrain from bringing it into the store? Otherwise we'll have to give you a strike, 2nd one you're out kind-of a deal. Thanks anon


>Yeah we took your stuff out and fucking wrecked it, fuck you.

It's like if I walked into a Mcdonald to enjoy my subway and they just grab my sandwich, pried it open, then tore out everything that wasn't Mcdonalds

>> No.56277569


also what if you didn't have a receipt for the Russ on hand? I don't fucking keep my receipts, what is this, some GW inquisition?

>> No.56277575

Okay I actually took a decent picture without shitty exposure.
Please r8 and tell me how bad I did.
How should I base him?

>> No.56277595

And his beautiful carapace back

>> No.56277612

Okay let me fix the situation here, we were pretty close friends with the guy who ran it until he started acting like a dick but here's an order of events for you
>I order chinacast leviathan
>store manager finds out after friend straight up tells him cause he thought he wouldn't be a dick about it
>immediate recast inquisition starts and no FW allowed in the store without a receipt
>I had Russ on the way and he was a perfect 10/10 cast
>forget and paint him up real nice and play a single game of 30k in the store

and then I got asked for a receipt, and then what I posted happened

He expected to see the email receipt, I almost half wanted to photoshop one, but didn't really care that hard

>> No.56277615

Any tips for spray priming guardsmen? I'm concerned that with their small size and chest-blocking pose that they won't get good coverage

>> No.56277637

Assemble the whole model mate.
Chances are if you can't reach a part with the brush you can't see it ever so it doesn't matter.,
These Primaris were painted fully assembled just to give you an idea

>> No.56277666

I really like your paint job, but I really hate that derpy position the dude with the black helmet is in.

>> No.56277667

Looks decent!
search 'warhammer base schemes' for some colour examples
I'm a fan of just the ol' pva-then-sand method as i find gw's texture paints way too finicky.

>> No.56277701

Satan trips eh
Feel free to convert that guy. I didn't bother, I agree he looks a touch derpy.
Anyway vis a vis Primaris the gun takes up less of the chest compared to non-P marines it's less of a hassle to do it when assembled.

>> No.56277707


>>forget and paint him up real nice and play a single game of 30k in the store

that makes it even fucking worst

I swear to god man, I'm already leery and paranoid of some greaseball toying with my minis while I'm not looking, let alone someone screwing up my hard-worked paintjob

>> No.56277729

literally just won the game, not even a chance to pick my remaining minis off the table and was hounded for a receipt

>> No.56277752

i dont even play at GW stores because of all these horror stories. i just play in my house with a small circle of friends. what do you do if you need to go to the bathroom or get food? just leave like two grand and 200+ hours of money and time out there on a table in some retail shop with no insurance?

>> No.56277803

its a tinier GW so yea, everyone knows each other or is friends with each other

>> No.56277881

So I'm wanting to do some good purple or bluey shade to the Grey Knights I'm working up, but I'm wondering what would work better. The paint app says Leadbelcher -> Drakenhof -> Ironbreaker Edge -> Stormhost Edge.

And then Duncan's guide says something completely different, with using Ironbreaker as a layer paint, Nuln Oil, and then Stormhost as an edge.

How should I do this? I don't have my paints with me right now to try them out.

>> No.56277903

Any ideas on how to improve? Is that like a 5/10 then? I wanted to do more realistic tone instead of stylized tones so i went with more overbrushing and drybrushing than layering and edge highlighting

>> No.56277907


absolutely degenerate behavior on their part


this is what I'm most scared of; never actually played in a GW and I hate leaving my minis out of sight unless my brother or my good friends are in the room

>> No.56277911

The mould lines really fucked with me.
Like, I expect to find mould lines on a model, so when I find barely anything it makes me worried that I am missing them.

>> No.56277936

I found that the khorne/stormcast guys had some pretty noticeable one, well pretty noticeable after I primed them but not before

>> No.56277964

You could add sharper/brighter highlights to the carapace, especially the thigh plates
Tongue could do with another highlight as well and the eyes painting in
Other than that it looks pretty good.
Stylistically maybe i'd have chosen a differing colour for the boneswords as they are quite tonally similar to the arm colour, however they are quite well painted as is and maybe they stand out better in person, so to speak.
Its certainly not a bad looking model, if you do 2 things paint the eyes and do the base, and it will look 8/10

>> No.56278018

Thanks guy, will try this

>> No.56278136

>what is this, some GW inquisition?

Nobody expects that.

>> No.56278362

Attempted to fix the derpfaces with no success. Paint is now too thicc so I'm gonna strip it and start over.

>> No.56278381

The electrical arcs on these vanes look alright though, so the day's not a total loss.

>> No.56278417

Such is painting friend. At least you gave it ago, and hopefully learned something.

>> No.56278428


>> No.56278447


>> No.56278456

I thought I'd be better at faces after painting the gorillion troops in my IG army, but looking back at them the faces that I attempted eyes on look like pic related

>> No.56278619

>Johnny front and center
He knows

>> No.56278705

You're trying too hard
Basecoat the face in a fleshtone and apply flesh wash
Add a thinned down 1:2 mix brown shade/lahmian around the eyes and mouth
if you're brave.capable try using a sideways brush to stroke in some black eye areas

>> No.56278718

Really nice job dude. Stong shading make him a beaut'..

>> No.56279881

So I'm working on my urban camo for my USAriadna force, and I've done my first attempt on this guy's hat.
How it looking? I feel like it could use something to stand out, but I'm not sure how to highlight lines so incredibly tiny.

>> No.56279886


>> No.56279895


>> No.56279970

They're about the same height as a plaguemarine.

>> No.56280040

For female models I'm looking to get stuff from these two site:


Both are practically heroic quality, though Raging heroes is often sexy models and boobplate when when it comes to females.

Here's my question. I'm planning on getting the Bald Female Heads (pictured) does anyone know how I can easily put them under Guardsman helmets? I know Victoria Minis has ones with helmets, but I want them all to have the official IG helmets. Am I gonna have to just cut the head out and sculpt these to fit?

>> No.56280109

WIP IG snipers. Will likely run them as Ratlings, or as a double command squad (with nearby CC) for extra-accurate shooting.

I had to strip them three times before I got the camo patterns somewhere I liked. Still have to do the hair, bandanas/headwraps (gonna do a catachan red, nothing else will look right, though I'm open to ideas), shade, and highlight.

And ALSO gluing them together.

>> No.56280405

Im trying to see if I can make a few Sons of the Phoenix, and I have a few questions. First, what kits can I get a bunch of candles like in the picture? Also what are the chances that shoulder marking is a decal? I got some bones from my Flesh Eater Courts so I should be set on those

I like that base a lot anon! the translucency in the middle is really fucking cool!

>> No.56280496

wew anon those are the first camo cloaks I've ever liked- sweet job!

>> No.56280936

How'd you do the ice bases?

>> No.56281586

God dammit

I need a detail brush that holds a point for when I'm doing small figure edge highlighting, in fact thats the only thing I would use the brush for. I'm fed up with my current tiny brushes that get all frayed even after light use

>> No.56281612

then buy a decent brush and don't abuse it

>> No.56281623

Candles are easy to make with greenstuff, that chapter symbol is gonna be a bitch since there's nothing like it. Best bet is to try to find a place online that'll print them up for you special or get the appropriate paper/printer and make them yourself.

>> No.56281728

I added paint to a model, yay me!

>> No.56281825

This guy is nearly done, just need to pick out a couple more details, then a matte varnish, then a gloss varnish on the axe.

>> No.56281837

And behind

>> No.56282000

Hey /wip/, I just bought some old school ravagers and need advice. They come with those old shitty peg flying stands that don't fit snugly into the model so I'm going to need to magnitize them to the base. How do I do this and make it not look retarded? Can I literally just glue the magnet to the stick and the bottom of the hull over the hold? I know this probably makes me sound like a retard but I don't want to fuck these up.

>> No.56282026

>> No.56282054

Drill into the model and slot the magnets into the hole, magnets on top of the stand is fine.

>> No.56282092

But the model is hollow. Do i just widen the hole it already has to fit the magnet? Should I try to fill the gap with green stuff or milliput and the drill into that? I'm thinking widen the hole but 'll be honest I don't know and feel like I'm just going to end up with 2 halves of a ravager.

>> No.56282257

finished the crew

>> No.56282286

It shouldn't be *too* hard to widen it. Just take it slow and careful.

>> No.56282346

>how many dwarves does it take to fire a cannon?

>> No.56282358

Canonneering guilds have a strong union

>> No.56282577


I like the red added to the scheme

>> No.56282866

What if I have like FW heads or something on my models?

Another reason not to buy FW. Or go to GW stores.

>> No.56282925

How can you switch between the weapons without having to magneize them?

>> No.56282933

Totally agree, I don't buy straight from there anymore, and we don't play 30k there anymore at all. The manager was getting pissy that everyone wanted to buy FW but not from his store. I wish my friends would drive an extra ten minutes down the road to play at a much better place, but they kind of hate the crowd and are too lazy to drive.

>> No.56282961

>Local GW hosts semi regular tournaments
>forgeworld models are disallowed because the tournaments are about 'supporting local stores'


>> No.56282985

If our FLGS sold FW, I'd buy it. They do sell GW stuff, even webstore exclusive. Since there's no S&H involved (it comes through the store chain), I often get stuff way cheaper than looking online or having to buy enough stuff from GW to get free shipping.

Luckily the store doesn't give two shits about GW. They barely sell their products, making their money from everything else. So I can bring all the 3rd party and recast pieces. Though at the moment my only recast piece is a Mechanicum abeyant (I'm not paying £70 for that shit), which I can't even use because conversion beamer techmarine biker isn't a thing.

>> No.56282992

You got a receipt?

>> No.56283020

Hey that sounds like the other store in the area, they make so much fucking money off magic and board games and I'm pretty sure I'm the only faggot who buys hamwater from them

Oh boy have I got another story for you then

>blue shirt decides we're gonna do a path to glory campaign
>everyone starts with a SC box, but everyone has to buy a new army that they randomly roll
>I roll nurgle demons
>have fun painting them, roll for my next unit to add
>buy an exalted chariot of slaneesh and blood crushers as my next units
>get to play one game in the campaign
>next week Inner Circle is announced

I was fucking livid, never will I start another army for a GW campaign since I know that shit head knew the entire time.

>> No.56283033

it wasnt even proof it was purchased there, it was just in the tournament rules, no forgeworld, period.

>> No.56283133

>campaign that requires you to buy a new army

Nope dot jay peg.

Our store held some campaigns where your armies just got progressively larger. Like you started off with 500pts., then 1000, 1500, and 2000.

>> No.56283160

Oh hey, /wip/ has some good lgs autism stories? i will share mine!
>In a new city for a month
>decide to bring my warhammer shit there and get to know some more people of the place, a co worker i knew was into the hobby and brought me into this small store, pretty nice place
>painting my leman russ tank, owner comes over to look at the paint and we talk about it
>tell him its a ww2 german ambush pattern
>he becomes all passive agressive and talks all day about how the city has won a golden medal for the resistance and so on, being a clueless idiot i just listen to him because history is always fun
>two days later my friend tell me that i got banned for "being a nazi"
>turns out the owner is some kind of anarchist, and is so autistic about it that he even banned axis and soviet miniatures from historical wargames

>> No.56283183

Thats fuckin gay

>> No.56283214

Finally getting to the leftovers of the starter box... got caught on a frigging Rhino Primaris and just couldn't finish it or move past the fucker.

>> No.56283259

I used pva glue mixed with transparent crackling paint, over White and Light blue. Then glaze with the Light blue (it was temple guard blue here), finish with à White drybrush in one direction.
Exactly how I did for my rat ogres bases, execpt i also added pieces of transparent epoxy.

>> No.56283269

You should trash his store and call him a capitalist.

>> No.56283279

And how it looks before glazing and drybrush, for reference.

>> No.56283322

How do I preserve my brush tips? I used a 0 brush for about a month and it was fucked, used its replacement once and it's already got a curve in the tip.

>> No.56283339


>> No.56283365

I use the masters brush soap and conditioner.

I have har the same games workshop artificer brush for the last 2 year. Still looks new.

I've painted a 3000 point necron army, 1000 points of space marines, and several painting competition pieces with it in that time.

>> No.56283379

Guess that settles it. Thanks Anon(s).

>> No.56283396

On phone, apologize for size

>> No.56283552

Awesome gift anon

>> No.56283665

Thanks m8

>> No.56283666

They are almost exactly the same size.

>> No.56283703

I'm glad my local manager doesn't care at all when people bring in chinaman forge world models or pirated rules that they printed out.

>> No.56283838

Awesome, getting excited about this. I was needing the kings anyways for something else and it looks like they have plenty of weapons to spare. Thanks

>> No.56283845 [SPOILER] 

Cool pose, cool model, nice work mate. Good luck getting into combat...

>> No.56283859

I'm sure he'll come home anon, don't worry. my brother is being sworn in on the 10th. Godspeed anon.

>> No.56283878

>20 tits

>> No.56283891

wtf? you have to be meeming

>> No.56283934


>> No.56283990

What's the deal with the 'clear' paints FW do? More transparent?

>> No.56283998

well drakenhof is a blue shade so probably that one. Use your noggin

>> No.56284029

love me some noise marines

>> No.56284213

There is a clear line between a wehraboo and a nazi.

>> No.56284220

Guys I feel I have plateud with my painting, what can you guys recommend to elevate it a little more? (note the base is not finished/tidied yet)

>> No.56284250

Even if it is real, chances are it will be Chinacast anyway. You can live like a king for a month in certain parts of china for the cost of a FW Death Korps squad :P

>> No.56284287

Send him a legal notice for shits and giggles.

>> No.56284331

>voting based contest
>not a total joke
You can throw those medals into the trash.

>> No.56284335

>Dat scout.

I have 5 of these guys sat on my desk infront of me (3 metal dudes and the plastic Sergeant and H.Bolter dude). One day I might even paint them.

>> No.56284385

maybe work on your colours? Theres a lot of grey detail on a grey background. Maybe do the pipes in a brown, dusty red or bone? Too bright a colour might ruin the effect though... just a thought.

>> No.56284396

I need the best "barbarian flying through the air about to murder someone" mini you guys can find

>> No.56284530

>painters who start highlighting focal points and stuff despite not having a decent layer of the base colour down in other areas

Why do I see this so often. It's like walking before you can run.

>> No.56284554


>every Reaper bones I've painted looks okay until I start drybrushing it and notice a massive fault line that simply wasn't there before


>> No.56284600

Just need to put on the final details

>> No.56284640

Yeah. And people give me shit for taking my time assembling models, when I go through them very carefully and file down every single place I even suspect harboring a mould line.

>> No.56284722

That guy didn't skip calf day.

>> No.56284733

That's a good suggestion anon, mot of these guys have little tubes i've painted hazard stipes which helps, i was wondering why this guy looked a bit dull.

>> No.56284759

Some people like to do 1 area at a time
Whatever works honestly
I rarely basecoat every part of the mini before highlight
On a SM for example I paint the armour first and then the details after

>> No.56284775

He's got a 3+ and a 4++ and can get catalyst for a 5+ fnp at t7 which turns into t8 when you wound him and reduces damage by 1 after you wound him as well my dude.

>> No.56284806

>It's like walking before you can run.
That is how it typically works.

>> No.56284855

It doesn't even have to be very 'bright', just a canvas colour, a darl 'material' red or bone even.... Just something to make them look a bit less like they're part of the plate behind them.

>> No.56285174

Anyone able to tell me what paints would be required to paint my free guild people like this picture? Also what steps would you do it in to achieve a similar look? I'm new to the hobby so any tips would be handy, thanks.

>> No.56285231

You could probably watch WarhammerTV's Ultramarines painting guide and get some good tips from that.

>> No.56285434

How was this grey rock ground done? I wanna get the exact same tone

>> No.56285455

Purple base anon here, Back after a long hiatus. I figured out my bases, but I'll keep the purple rim. First 3 Plague Marines after 25 Poxwalkers (Beed more paints for #26). How'd I do?

>> No.56285465


>> No.56285479


pretty good, are your minis purposefully glossy or was it the agrax that wasn't shaken when applied? I ask because my brother did the same thing

>> No.56285481

A different angle if it helps.

>> No.56285515

O god dammit.

>> No.56285548

Probably the latter, but I'm 100% OK with the result. The glossiness makes it feel a bit more like skin/armor hybrid in my opinion. I followed Duncan's vid for the most part but left out the ogryn highlight.

>> No.56285561

knocked out a shadespire stormcast from "sprues and glue" to "eh close enough"

>> No.56286266



Website's a bit dated, they also own or work with Moonraker miniatures but their offices are across England from each other so I don't know if you can combine orders, they're the kind of small company you can email an order to anyway.


>> No.56286412

Congrats dwarf anon! Your stuff makes me want to paint iron breakers. Maybe make a mixed dwarf army.

>> No.56286462

YOU DID THE CHECKS! And it looks way better cause of it. Nice work.

>> No.56286522


You doing White Scars Primaris Marines? I bought a box and I'm waiting for those cool helmets in the mail, though I'm thinking about doing a successor chapter for White Scars

>> No.56286623


Have you tried free hand details before? Warning Triangles/stripes, hatch marks on weapons, Army/Squad Icons can all add a lot of character.

What about weathering on the boots/bottom of the coat? Airbrush/super light drybrush of the dust color on the lower body might add to the grime affect.

More exotic weathering like oil stains, rust, or an old blood stain?

What about customizing more from a modeling standpoint? Maybe get your head out of painting and try greenstuffing something you haven't before. A custom bandage, repose an arm, get some plasticard and add some kind of custom sword/knife.

Face and eyes look great some congrats on getting that down.

>> No.56287080

new thread?

>> No.56287296

yeah. Or something else. Bases look a bit empty otherwise.
Like the color choices on these guys btw.

>> No.56287398

you should have fucking left them, I thought they were hilarious and awesome.

>> No.56287469

Besides Inquisitor Greyfax, are there any female power armor models available?

Want to convert an inquisitor.

>> No.56287480

sisters of battle?

>> No.56287571

They're metal cast, and the iconography of the sororitas would be a lot of pain to replace with the big =I=.

Hoping for easier.

>> No.56287604

Not from GW I think. At least not currently. Back in ye olden days you could have gotten a Spyrer from Necromunda maybe.

There are other companies that make models in PA too.
HF has one that looks a lot like GW's Space Marine armor even. Called Power Armored Libby irc. They also have recently released two models inspired by the Sister of Sigmar from Mordheim. Technically they wear plate armor, but it could be fluffed as power armor (same goes for other fantasy miniatures of course).
Then you have Reaper Chronoscope, who have lots of different things, the Eisenkern plastic minis you could use, the retro-sci minis from Bombshell miniatures or maybe even the odd Infinity piece. You could also check the iKore/Void/Urban War ranges from Grendel. There are a handful of models you could use, though the iKore ones are a bit dated.
Gates of Antares also has a bunch of female models in PA. Mainly thinking of the Freeborn range here, though there may be others.

>> No.56287631

Sisters of silence

>> No.56287817

Actually chadwatch. Again, apologize for size

>> No.56287906

New bread


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