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[ERROR] No.55645879 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Paintan, assemblan, modellan on a Friday Night

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

old thread

>> No.55645902

I realize it's not Friday Night, I just copy and pasted it. Forgive me brothers.

With that said, Pan-O Update.

Doing my Nisses tonight. This is what he looks like pre shading and highlighting. Stippling and a bit of drybrushing is a really nice way of doing leather though you can't see much of it in this shot.

>> No.55646379

Going to start getting some paint on a kitbashed Legion Delegatus for my Imperial Fists later tonight. Uploading a picture of bare plastic/resin for posterity.

>> No.55646501

His body proportions seem kinda off. Like his regular arm is almost as big as a power fist, aswell as his feet being really tiny. I'm sure it will look better when painted.

>> No.55646756


Also where is that power fist from?

>> No.55646951

So I got a Slaanesh boobsnake. I ordered a pin vise too. Any advice on putting together an old, all-metal model like this?

>> No.55646970

Are there any good helmet pieces I could use to replace the Warpsmith's? I don't like his mk II-ish helmet design, and I want to replace it with something that still has eye-gadget things.

>> No.55646985

Pan-O Update

Nisses is finished, based and varnished.

That makes four guys in four days, I'm on a roll. This Icestorm set will be done in no time.

>> No.55647014

And a back shot. I like how the leather turned out.

Mixing Stippling and Drybrushing made for a nice texture.

Seeing mold lines on metal models can be pretty hard, I often find myself putting a very light layer of primer with my airbrush down to spot them all.

Also you're on the right path with a drill. Pin everything you conceivably can.

>> No.55647062

It's no dread hip deep in water but it's mine

>> No.55647074

Will cut up paperclips suffice or should I get something else for pinning?

>> No.55647085


Made me kek heartily.

>> No.55647120

Paperclips are perfect. Get a couple different sizes that are ever so slightly smaller than your drill bits so there's room for the glue. Also having a couple different sizes means if you need to pin something larger you aren't still using a tiny paperclip.

>> No.55647222

A group shot of what I've gotten done the last few days.

Just the Fusiliers left out of the base Icestorm box. Going to paint the Joan of Arc that came with Angel Giraldez' first book after them too.

Then it's on to the Beyond Icestorm box.

>> No.55647228

Alrighty Skeletor anon here. So I'm thinking about trying my skeleton army with GSC/Nids. Neophytes, genestealers, and magus/primus will rock the skull. Acolyte/metamorph and pure nids will rock a cuttlefish/lictor look with some extra bone stuff. I feel like this could work my main concern is that it will be hard to make skulls/bone conversion bits work with the carapace/shell that all nids have. maybe if I color them the same as the carapace it'll help make it seem like it's apart of their natural armor. Thoughts?
I thought about ice but that scared me as I'm still fairly new to the hobby and converting. DG might work but I'd want to use their new models and it's all bloated the fleshy so it wouldn't really work.

>> No.55647300

just applied some reikland on this bad boy, really turning up the "regal roman captain" look and making the second layer of his hood gold

obviously very WIP as i have to clean my highlights, but i'm feeling pretty good about how he's gonna turn out

>> No.55647329

Looking pretty spiffy anon.

How're you going to paint his sword?

>> No.55647358


thanks my dude, no clue desu, i've seen some really fancy power sword designs but he'll probably end up like pic related (it's the only image i have of the guy, he's been based and retouched since then)

>> No.55647361

Now I just gotta highlight with Stormhost Silver and then I can glue it onto the mini itself.

>> No.55647363

Thoughts on my EC so far? Just got the head in the mail today, I feel like I painted him to look kinda sad.

>> No.55647392


fucking clean/10, good job

i've seen your EC before, I would've recommended maybe painting the feet black and the leg armor pink (just to bring back that older edition color scheme) but that's just nitpicking on my part, solid work

>> No.55647426

To be honest, I'm terrified of painting black. I lack alot of paints so I've just been doing alot of blending of administratum grey and abaddon black. Same with my pinks. just a mix of ceramite white and emperor's children pink.

>> No.55647436

Nothing wrong with good ol' fashion metal. Not everything's gotta be some boss ass gradient.

Pic Related.

>> No.55647451


i see, in that case just keep on trucking man, i'd be stoked to play against a well painted army like that

>> No.55647469


>Not everything's gotta be some boss ass gradient

i figured as much haha, your model looks boss man

>> No.55647510

Doing things the way you're doing them is the easiest way to build confidence in not just doing your models as a paint by numbers kit.

Having to mix your colours constantly teaches you how to properly thin and understand the strengths of your pigments.

Keep at it.

>> No.55647596

Martian polar snow, thoughts?

>> No.55647624

Too thick and bunched up

>> No.55647891

Anyone know where I might be able to get more of these? They're called Scarab Legion Cataphractii

They're from Shapeways but I think they got axed by GW's purge in early September

>> No.55647911

Did you check ebay?

>> No.55648048

Yeah, several combinations

>> No.55648074


Pure evolution from my googley nids

>> No.55648102

all I see is that someone buried blitzcrank in the ground

>> No.55648226

Any other tips?

>> No.55648279

Try thinking about how it would look logically, like think about snow falling and wind and shit, and maybe look up some pictures to get an idea
If you mean actual technical tips om how to do it, I've got nothing

>> No.55648350

What did you use for the snow?

Whatever it is do yourself a favour and stop using it.

It doesn't look like snow, it looks like mashed potatoes.

Get some actual powdered snow from Woodland Scenics or Secret Weapon.

>> No.55648476

To expand on this, take Woodland Scenics snow or even GW snow, and also buy a bit of Woodland Scenics Realistic water - apply the snow, and while it's drying, add a bit of the realistic water to the, say, 20% around the ends. It'll water it down, and make it look like patched snow that's melting. It's super easy, and looks pretty good.

>> No.55648576

Definitely a great idea if your base is somewhere the snow is melting.

Everything I've done with snow lately has been for very cold places so I haven't made any melted patches. Your melting came out looking awesome.

>> No.55648633

Yeah, to be fair my point isn't applicable to cold places. Honestly though, it's the only way I've been able to make snow look good. Regret selling that army, the first one I ever completely finished.

That your warband complete, then? It was fun watching you work through it.

>> No.55648675

Complete is a term I use loosely.

I just like painting undead stuff so I've got more models to add to it on the waythat I can use as specific upgraded units or just alternates to replace guys that die and such.

When I finish all the Pan-O stuff I've been working on I'm going to start on my Ghost Archipelago warband for when that comes out. Perhaps unsurprisingly they're going to be Undead Pirates.

>> No.55648690

I'm working on making a chaos scorpius for 40k. Any thoughts on how I should approach the turret? I'm buying a 40k stalker/hunter to use as a base (stabilization struts to convey the "don't move, get two shots" aspect of it)

>> No.55648735

Hey, the undead are awesome, so I can see where you're coming from. Kudos on painting Infinity, too, for some reason everything I try that works well on GW stuff seems to fail miserably every time I take a stab at the Ariadna starter I've had laying around.

Pic is the next project, assuming I ever finish these chads. Found a nice pile of resin bits to add more detail, although I need to get a new battery and light source - the one that came with it is, uh, a little old and no longer functional.

>> No.55648760

Slowly progressing on my Scythes of the Emperor terminator. I have a few questions- Anyone got any ideas how to make the chest better? Also will Mechanicus Standard Grey be a good highlight for the black parts? What color should I make the nid's guts? Thanks for the help!

Looks sweet anon! You'll have to post a picture of it on the mini!

>> No.55648786

It's been a lifelong dream of mine to own a large scale model of a Star Destroyer.

Something like 3 or 4 feet across. Some day.

Definitely post progress of that, get some Star Wars hype going for Star Wars Legion.

>> No.55648825


God, the resemblance is uncanny. I'd try to cheer him up if I didn't already know that would entail murder-fucking me into another dimension.

Either way, solid work anon.

>> No.55648847

To the people who can paint a tabletop standard fast do you have any tips? I was planning on finishing the human team in under 10 days but I'm at day 6 and I have not finished my first three guys.

>> No.55648887

Jesus Christ that resolution I forgot to fix that.

>> No.55648916

My love of space wedges is hard to quantify, anon. If I could have a scale SSD, with fiber optics, I think I could die happy.

>> No.55648994

Finished black and associated highlights on these smuf Hellblasters tonight. Slowly but surely getting back into the hobby after many years.

>> No.55649007

A lot of your speed will come from knowing what order to paint things in.

With the example you posted you could have slapped down a couple quick coats of the yellow on all three paying very little attention to getting it on other parts.

Then you could slap all the armour color down just being careful enough not to hit the yellow.

Then you do the detail work.

It looks like you did the yellow after the metallic work which would make it harder than it needed to be.

>> No.55649227

It was originally supposed to be just a normal non metallic purple but then I changed my mind. But I agree with that I should have done the yellow first.

>> No.55649309

To expand on what the other anon said, one of the best bits of advice I got was "work from the inside out." Obviously it's dependent on the model, but look at the sarcophagus of the dreadnought here, the face plate - best course of action is to finalize the black bits, then move on the next highest surface. Painting the eagle first, for instance, would make it very difficult to get to the inner bits.

That same idea can be applied to your models. Would you finish the helmet, then try and wedge your brush in to work on the face? You could, but it then the paint might slop over, and the helmet you're working on now has a hideous fleshy spot.

Otherwise, kudos. Keep at it anon, and post more pics.

>> No.55649393

Anyone know some good bits for making traitor guard?

>> No.55649419

No washes or drybrushes just base coat so far.

>> No.55649445

the spikey bits

>> No.55649484

started working on a flame cannon today. i should have sub assemblied.

>> No.55649494


Really like your dudes. I don't suppose you would be willing to share some of your techniques?

The highlights look really great and stand out, I would love to be able to replicate it.

>> No.55649517

>Legion Delegatus
what, do they outsource their crusades?

>> No.55649548

They all talk like Ted Cruz.

>> No.55649617

Next time someone complains about shaky hands, post this.

>> No.55649654

but who was camera?

>> No.55649668


>> No.55649728

a fellow anon posted this marine in the last thread and i fell in love with the painting, especially the armor, kind of reminds me of blanche.
so maybe, if you are lurking here, you would be so kind to enlighten me.
how did you pant him?

>> No.55649738

well, I know that there are a few kits here and there that has Nid-skulls, like in the Terminator-lord kit, but as for something more Genestealer like, I wouldn't know.

I like your idea though.If you wished, you could take it a step further with the "he-man villains", and just make the rest from the bunch, atleast in command or so.I think Clawful, maybe Rattlor could work then too, depending on how you make them.

Keep us updated though!

>> No.55649743

One of my mates made me a static grass box, does anyone know where I can get different lengthened static grass? for reasonably cheap.

>> No.55649749


>> No.55649767

It's GW valhallan blizzard

>> No.55649830

anyone got a pic of that scratchbuild GUO with the hairlip some guy did a few months ago?

>> No.55649981

He's using a solarite gauntlet for his PF. Solarite gauntlets are already smaller than FW PFs, and FW PFs are already smaller than huge giant plastic GW PFs.

>> No.55650156

I am struggling a bit with my motivation.
I've got plenty of ambitious projects lined up, but lately I've just been fiddling around with bits trying to conceptualize further ideas. Nothing gets assembled, let alone cleaned up. Painting hasn't happened for three months.
Doesn't help that the gf is getting on my case about it as well.

>> No.55650400

paint her

>> No.55650425

Got some custom Raptors riflemen dreadnoughts in progress, finally got them to basecoated status after finishing the hardware.

>> No.55650549

First trooper in my USAriadna force is done (mostly). This was my first time trying to purely edge highlights and that shit is hard on small models like Infinity stuff. I'm also not too sure about that white dot on the visor.
C&C welcomed.

>> No.55650644

Bro I have to ask, not shitting on your painting at all, but what's the appeal of Infinity models? It's the same color all over the model except stuff like the gun and that coat thing and a few white bits here and there. Is there at least supposed to be a design or something on those nice smooth pauldrons? Or are these guys just the liniest of all line infantry and there's more interesting guys coming? Again, nothing against your painting abilities, I'm just trying to understand Infinity aesthetics.

>> No.55650662

that's how snow looks in real life

>> No.55650667

This is one cool tyranid

>> No.55650715

Is it just the paintjob or are these models actually this bad. Is there a way to not paint these models so cartoonish?

>> No.55650751

Obviously Infinity is not for you, friend. The smooth, uniform look is part of the appeal for several factions.
That being said, there are plenty of minis and even factions that have a different look to them.

>> No.55650782

That's not a nisse.

>> No.55650825

Paints seem a but thick on the helmet and you could clean up the highlights , they are too thick and look a bit messy

You might want to add some brighter color to the model to help break him up and give the eye something to catch in the tabletop, but that's purely an aesthetic choice

>> No.55650839


>> No.55650843

radical, dude

>> No.55650858

He's got something else that's tiny as well.

The power fist is a Templar Bretheren solarite gauntlet from FW.

>> No.55650865

The muscle arms are bad, the rest is fine imo. The paint job isn't making it better either.

>> No.55650871

Ligg unna groten MIN!

>> No.55650893

Not sure if I'm happy with the position of the eagle now that the thing is painted.

>> No.55651249

It's good anon, it looks like the eagle is going to land on the custodian's arm

>> No.55651267

just sit down and get on with it. stop being a procrastinating faggot.

>> No.55651302

I'm working on a piece of scenery but don't know how to make it fancier.

It's a cooling unit kind of thing, fans are supposed to go sit in the two circles on the top. The pipes on the ground aren't glued so they can be put against any side or just left off. The roof is fine, but the rest is a bit bland so I need something to fancy it up.

>> No.55651307


Here's the other stuff I've made to give an idea of what I'm going with. The two smokestacks will get a redo later on to match the pipes more.

>> No.55651376

Tonight's progress. Still have a bunch of shading and highlighting, plus the whole backpack, Chainsword, and combi-plasma to do. However, I'm still pleased with the scheme. Wasn't sure how it would turn out on a MKIV, but I think it works.

>> No.55651384

Need to do some cleanup on the shoulder too.

>> No.55651411


I hope before he buries his weapon in somebodies skull he screams SUCKLE ME


>> No.55651443

>Brush held like pen
Wait, are there people who actually DON'T hold their brush like that and need to be told how to? That shit is as natural as breathing! What the fuck!

>> No.55651458

Coolings units tend to have fins (like you see on a heatsink). They're likely inside the unit but you could damage the cooling unit a bit and expose the fins.

Chiller units may have switchboards to get power. Try making a little switchboard (like a cupboard), colour it orange and slap some DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE labels (or in-universe equivalent) on it. A switchboard may also have power meters, cable compartments, a DCS marshalling box or controls equivalent, circuit breakers (big ones), circuit breaker chasis, indicator lights, key interlocks, maybe a transfer switch. If it has relays or motorization, it would also have an auxiliary power supply nearby. If you choose to damage it, you can even expose some busbars within it.

Given that your chiller looks like an outdoor unit, it probably has a canopy gazebo thing over the fans to stop rainwater. Consider also have some lightning rods nearby as lightning protection. Consider adding mesh/grills over the fan exhaust to stop small animals getting in

They also might be mounted on some sort of railing so a forklift could pick it up and move it around. Might also have some handles here and there that are left over from manufacturing,

Water is often the cooling medium so have some sort of water monitoring/control station nearby. It can be represented with some dials, taps, levers or whatever would make sense in your universe.

>> No.55651528

Got a good kek outta me. Thank you

>> No.55651531


wow, thanks for the detailed reply. I'll go look at how I could realise some of these things. I got some plastic canvas which I was already considering to add to the fans. These things are pretty big so a forklift would be tricky. A big crane could have lifted it in place so adding details to complement that is an idea.

>> No.55651561

they look cool as fuck, where are the auto cannons from?

>> No.55651567


They're bad, but the paintjob is making it worse.

>> No.55651823

Genestealer Cult bits are useful. Just need to remove some of the obvious Tyranid-y bits..

>> No.55651840


>> No.55651955

Guy that wanted to do the Aussie Tyranids here, been looking at the citadel paint app and found the "arid martian soil" color
While it is very much what I'm looking for, im not 100% confident in using base colors on the actual model
what do you guys think?

>> No.55651985

Martian Ironearth? That's a texture paint for bases. Don't do dat.

>> No.55652003

Trying out blood ravens on my reiver how did I do so far?

>> No.55652041

Fuck me I noticed the mold line on his arm

>> No.55652049

well, its thick, your black highlights look like the primer fell off, it looks like the gold is Ichor spilling everywhere, the black is oozing out, the pouches look vintage and in despite of your goofy highlights, the panels look flat and unwashed.
also, the tacpad looks shit, and nice Ferrus cosplay.

>> No.55652061

Yeah I thought so

>> No.55652166

so, I'm working on my lord of contagion/typhus conversion, and I'm wondering - what should I pain the hood as? Originally, I was thinking yellow, but that might be too bright.

>> No.55652585

If you look at the studio models they usually put heraldry and whatnot on shoulderpads.

I just don't because I don't know enough about the fluff to put heraldry that makes sense.

Part of it is also that they are just nameless faceless soldiers who don't really need identifying marks.

I also really like the clean look of Pan-O. If I was doing Haqq or Nomads I'd definitely dirty them up a bit.

>> No.55652599

Split Dark Imperium with a buddy now that 8e is out; first steps back in since 5e. Also first primarily white army.

>> No.55652638

I started with undercoating the models black from below, white from above after priming grey.

Then I gave them all a coat of vallejo Dark Prussian Blue.

After that it was starting at about a 60/40 mix of Dark Prussian Blue to Vallejo Blue Green and did several layers adding a bit more Blue Green each time until it was basically pure Blue Green.

Then I started adding a bit of white to each layer until it was almost pure white and that's when I did the little radial bloom highlights on individual parts of the armor.

After that I gloss coat everything to make the next step WAY easier.

I start poking a wash into all the recessed detail and the gloss coat both helps the wash flow through it AND if I get some on the flat surfaces I can just wipe it off with a finger without damaging all my blue work.

When that's all done, if you're a perfectionist or professional you'd edge highlight all the individual panel lines meticulously. I'm lazy so I just do a more careful than normal dry brush that amounts to basically the same thing.

Most of what I did is just a personal application of the method Angel Giraldez uses to paint all the studio models for Infinity, although he doesn't do the black undercoat, just the white from above, and he goes to a pure white for his final radial highlights. I like my dudes to look a little more subtle than his.

>> No.55652648

WIP Terrorgheist. Gonna be tricky to get gloss on the innards without getting it all over the ribs.

>> No.55652874

What is important to keep in mind when making Belisarius Cawl? He's quite a clusterfuck of a model and I don't wanna screw him up.

Right now I'm planning to have most arms with big shit on them, his upper body and legs all as seperate parts fully painted before assembling.

>> No.55652883

It occurs to me that if you're just after the color, iron oxide red paint/primer is pretty easy to find, and would get you a good base color wor what I think you're going for.

>> No.55652992

Started drybrushing my aop board
I know it looks super empty but its a lot better when the models are on.

>> No.55653034

You should cover up the exposed foam on the drop down part with some wall filler and texture it a bit, make it look like a proper sheer cliff face instead of foam.

Or score more lines into it and make it look like sedimentary rock,

>> No.55653039

It's not that bad anon.
The shoulder pad indeed needs a wash around the rim though

>> No.55653051

I'm going to cover all the exposed foam with plastic card after I've painted everything to tidy it up. Painted black around the rim and then concrete coloured on the exposed drops

>> No.55653060

Is it just me or do dark Vallejo colors seem harder to work with for some reason? I was having a hell of a time getting even coats with oxford blue, leather brown, and dark sea grey, but carmine red and bright orange worked fine.

>> No.55653118

The darker colours use a much heavier pigment, you need to shake the everliving shit out of them to get proper coats. The browns are especially bad for it.

>> No.55653124

You'd be surprised.

>> No.55653139


>> No.55653150

Hm, now that you say that, I realize that the steel balls I dropped into the bottles actually bang around loudly in the light color bottles, but not the dark ones. I'll remember that, thanks.

>> No.55653180

Jesus dude who shit in your breakfast?

There is room for improvement but it isn't bad. Certainly tabletop.

>> No.55653528

Add a very small amount of red to your gloss (or purple, or whatever color you think will best compliment your innards as a glaze). Any that gets on the ribs will just look like the vile goo of its insides has dribbled down onto the bone.

>> No.55653634

So actually I've finally found out how I want to do a skeleton army. Someone on 40kg said I could do a Deldar with a coven with a penchant for making skeleton dudes. I didnt consider it at the time but I could easily convert some units into Skeletor's goons. Tri-Klops is literally just a Medusae, and shit like Trap-Jaw or Clawful make great grotesques. I think I've found what I want to do.

>> No.55653635

The model looks great. The highlight on the red is tops. He could darken up and thing down the black highlights. But that's the only problem I see. You should tone down the salt and get that dick out of your ass.

>> No.55653690

Good onya, anon!

>> No.55653777

The grays are 1:1:1 paint/water/vallejo medium. I *do* need smaller brushes for cleanup and details, but thought I'd had things thinned down enough.

Is there a different ratio I should be trying out?

>> No.55653803

An airbrush. Other than that, get *really* good at nice clean highlights. I was a bit harsh, if you clean them up and highlight well they'll probably end up quite nice

>> No.55653812

Don't use ratios. Every paint range and every colour in those ranges is different.

You thin until the paint is transparent but not runny. This is especially important with lighter colours.

This is honestly the best way to paint a nice base layer of a light colour, it takes so much of the effort and headache out of it.

>> No.55653836

You’ve “coloured outside the lines” in some places and I’d perhaps wash the chest emblem and then highlight it so it stands out a bit more, but other than that it’s solid tabletop quality

>> No.55653894

I don't suppose anyone has a PDF of this copy of Warhammer Visions? I want to take a look at how they paint Skitarii.

>> No.55653926

Alright, I think he's done- What should I improve upon for next time? Also in terms of basing, anyone know how to make this base a little more beach-like?

looks great anon! looks like it was made for the model!

>> No.55653930

The paint app would show you what colours they used but I'm pretty sure it's just mephiston red shaded with agrax earthshade, highlighted with evil sunz scarlet and then ultra highlights with wazdakka red.

>> No.55653948

It seems like there's a whole lot more inside than just the most common colours. I'm new to painting so I'd like to see in detail how they do it as opposed to just "use these colours".

>> No.55653959

check the 40k general they have a mega full of old WV issues

>> No.55653999

Actually looks pretty realistic, nice job. Maybe add a bit more dirty snow like you have on the oval base though, isolated patches of snow are usually not completely clean

>> No.55654030

Most of the painting sections in White Dwarf don't really show you HOW they do things, they're just images after each step with what colour they used and the name of the technique they used.

If you're looking for how to use techniques they're talking about you're better off with tutorials like the ones they put on the WHTV YouTube channel.

Definitely great for colour ideas though.

>> No.55654096

Thanks, found it

Yeah, a but disappointing actually. Will check those out instead.

>> No.55654109

Chaos mutations inspo:


>> No.55654287

Jesus these are scary

>> No.55654324

So I got bored of not modelling while staying with my in laws so I went to my parents' house where my stuff is stored and spent some time converting some Warhammer Khorne guy into a Nurgle Daemonprince. Right wing and forearms are just tacked on for the pic. My concern is the size of the wings. I wanted them small because I want them to look like they assist his running and jumping rather than allow him to fly outright, but I'm not sure if they're too small? I intend to add some Nurgle stuff to them. I won't get another chance to do any work on it for a couple of weeks and would be able to swap them for something bigger, so curious to see what people say. Apologies for the bad lighting.


>> No.55654357


Obliged, anons.

>> No.55654364

Have you considered adding more of a gut if he's going to be nurgle affiliated?
Would make the wings seems more appropriately disproportionate

Did a quick mock up model in the style of Nard's Nids that i plan on using for my lizardmen.

Goal Ian brightly coloured Saturday morning cartoon aesthetic
Think I did ok here, but I can see where the lines are a little too obvious or I overdid it on the last coat

>> No.55654627

That looks fucking awsome dude, It looks like a gorilla demon prince, and if that was a real thing it would fuck shit up.

>> No.55654647

Which guide is this page from?

>> No.55654689

Like even if you cant thin your paint, can't you seen the lines to stay in?

>> No.55654837

If you can smooth out the transitions a bit that'll look mighty cool from a couple feet away.

>> No.55654867

>Painting Mephiston Red over black

So who's dick do I have to suck to have this look somewhat decent? I'm on coat number 4 - it's smooth, no brush marks, but it is NOT a solid red yet. This seems to be a common occurrence with Mephiston Red and some yellows.

>> No.55654881

Don't paint reds and yellows over black. Do a layer or two of brown over the black then the reds/yellows.

I know hindsight is 20/20 but going forward if you do that it'll save you a lot of headaches.

>> No.55654948

That's rad as hell.

Also where is that ape model from? I want something badass like that for a Frostgrave monster.

>> No.55654973

How big is Cawl's head in comparison to the Magos Dominus? Thinking about doing a quick and easy swap-job, but I haven't bought the figure yet. It looks tiny in the preview.

>> No.55654974

Lol. I always laugh at that

>> No.55654993

Bah, you'd think I'd know that by now. That makes a lot of sense.

After this 5th thin coat it's starting to shape up. Thankfully it's smooth plating.

>> No.55655096


Does khorne red under mephiston also suffice?

>> No.55655104

I should add on to that it helps to put brown under gold and brass and green as well. Basically if you're painting Blood Angels, just prime them in brown.

>> No.55655135

Small figure story time (with moral)
>weekend finally here fug yea
>bust out a shiny new pack of necron warriors
>put the bodies together and go to prime them
>been drinking all night
>don't shake my primer can
>spotty fuzzy primer all over my new minis
>go to bed
>in the morning I realize that this is some kind of "super plastic binding supreme" spray primer
>all online sources say I'm fucked
>chuck a stiff nylon brush attachment into my dremel
>takes off the top layer of the primer, leaving it shiny
>skeet a properly shook layer of primer over it again
>looks fine
Never listen to forums bros.

>> No.55655144

Khorne Red goes down a bit better over black than Mephiston in my experience, but a pure chocolate brown is always going to be best.

>> No.55655172

People are very used to just reading instructions and following them.

Anybody who's ever used paint outside of models knows you can use abrasives to smooth out a primer coat, it's why there are sandable primers.

>> No.55655198

Does anyone know if there's a way to get this color without using an airbrush?

>> No.55655256

And that's the test model done. Now I'll be faster on all the rest since I know what to do.

>> No.55655264

You could do that very easily with Vallejo Blue Green mixed with their Metallic Medium.

Prime the model grey, hit it with some black from below, white from above than an all over coat of the mixture I mentioned and you'd get something like that.

>> No.55655349

There's this method, from WIP threads poast:
>Metal is layered up to runefang steel, second is two layers of guilliman blue, third is waywatcher green layer, and fourth is one final layer of guilliman blue and then details. Takes a while but pretty easy.

>> No.55655508

Need help finding a fitting paint scheme for a few plague monks.
Also i was playing with the idea of painting them up as jews, or is that just stupid?

>> No.55655588

If you made them straight up hasidic that would be amazing.

>> No.55655822

so basicly black/nearly black coats and greenstuffed hats/curls right?

>> No.55655949

Wrong models for that

>> No.55655959

Hell yes. Throw some beards in the mix and you're golden.

>> No.55655980

I've got a question about Mechanicus Standard Grey spray. It came out all weirdly fuzzy and didn't look good at all, even though I shook the can for quite some time and tested the nozzle beforehand. Tips?

>> No.55655994

alright, guess thats settled then, thanks all of you.

>> No.55656065

It's either too hot, too cold, too dry, too humid where you are, or you were too far away.

Spray paint for models is awful. Buy a shitty airbrush to prime or a decent one to just use all the time.

>> No.55656179

Thanks. It's from GW, called Sclya Anfingrimm. It's shitty finecast resin but it's a cool sculpt and I'm surprised I've not seen it used more for conversions. I've tilted it forwards about 20 or so degrees, looks very dynamic.

I've given him quite a gut. I don't want to go OTT with it, as I want him still looking athletic and mobile.

Thanks, yeah it's mostly the proportions of the base model, but I gave him dat ass to make him more Nurgle as that seems to be a theme...

>> No.55656534

Didn't manage to do much on yesterday, just coating the front of her coat, initial work for the sword and it's hilt, which should go on her back.
Changes are I'll go over her arms again and make the, a tad thicker. Sword still needs quite some works. And from the hilt I learned that filing it out of plasticard might not have been the best move. Most of it will be covered by hair amyways, so I don't really want to put much work into it. Yes, the head still lokks bad, it will continue to do so until I do her hair.

>> No.55656617

Now with wires and stuff. Looks better open.
Somebody asked in the last thread, both armor plate parts are movable on the completed model, if you don't glue them in position or get paint stuck in there. The redemptor is pretty nice for posing, with fully movable leg joints, after cutting a few stoppers away and apearently you can keep the arms movable too. Didn't get around to them yet.
I might get around to finishing these two soon, which will put me back to working on the board and bases.

>> No.55656637

Holy shit dude! That looks so fucking cool. I wanna steal that idea so badly!!

>> No.55656686

It's not that hard, you'll want a roll maker though. I did it all in one setting after the model was glued in place. There is a plasticard board behind it, you can't see it anymore, but you should use it. I recommend using pro create for the wires like I did, greenstuff would be too sticky.

>> No.55656870

Minotaurs actually, so with all the brass that might help. I'll give it a shot.

>> No.55657071

Mad Robot make some pretty good Blood Pact bits.

>> No.55657096

That looks fucking rad as hell, definitely needs the front open.

>> No.55657383

I'd recommend putting a thin highlight on the scratches on the legs to really make them pop. For the base, maybe some static grass tufts? You could try to make some washed up seaweed using woodlands scenics turf but I'm not sure how that would look.

>> No.55657441

Nearly done with my Primaris Psyker. Just need a bit of gap filling and sanding and he'll be done.

>> No.55657448

Seaweed could be fun! I'll look into some options for it! Also thanks for the bit about the leg scratches, I was a bit concerned about how to go about them and I think you are right! Thanks for the response!

>> No.55657462

Now with the right picture.

>> No.55657573

where is this model from?

>> No.55657589

It's a FW Chaos Dwarf Fireglaive

>> No.55657698

thanks m8, do they have a blunderbuss option or would i have to convert to it?

>> No.55657712

I went for yellow myself, do it

>> No.55658099

Are there any other arms I could use instead? Pref. From a GW kit.

>> No.55658175

The flagellant kit has a lot of (mostly) bare arms. Not sure how you'd fit a lasgun in them though.

>> No.55658219

I want a Isaac Clark head for my Tech Priest, any ideas?

>> No.55658272

Maybe the mk iv techmarine's helmet?

>> No.55658336

Came into possession of some old ass Chaos marines, and some not quite as old, but still old, chaos terminators.

Also got some Digga Nobs from the same source. No idea what to do with them.

I need to give some of the chaos marines some arms, but all the newer plastic kits have proportions that make it seem even more silly than it already is. Plus I don't know if I should build them as chaos tactical marines, or give them melee weapons in each hand to show off the old models more...


(pics to follow soon)

>> No.55658339

drukhari wrack/ head of a Talos Engine?

>> No.55658343

Kabuki actually released one under the name "Alien Hunter".
It appears to be out of production now, but you might find some on ebay.

>> No.55658600

already looked my man. None

>> No.55658656

Or just have miniature painting experience. My first idea was exactly what he did.

>> No.55658680

Was this only recently added to WIP post at the top?

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36

I never noticed it before and only just found out about it today, fucking awesome anyway. Maybe i only just noticed it now i was looking for it.

>> No.55658728

its been there for a long time

>> No.55658742

these 2 exact boys to be specific.

they just got done with the 100% acetone bath and scrub.

(stock photo, obv.)

>> No.55658926

reminds me of some other chorf anon that posted a lot a few months back, but way better. good job!

>> No.55658955

is it not the same guy getting better at painting?

>> No.55658966

it could be. he did state it was a test model though, implying it's his first chorf.

>> No.55659115

Painted up a Barbarian for a Pathfinder campaign I've got coming up. C&C?

>> No.55659126

It is me, I'm the same guy. I stripped the original batch and this is my test model for the new batch. Thanks for the compliments!

>> No.55659193

partslist please, that's pretty much exactly the look I want for my normal dreads when I get round to making them. Seriously that's the best reinterpretation I've seen

>> No.55659290

That's a tricky one; the arms sprue that went with those lads went the way of the dodo around the end of 3rd edition. Maybe look for some 2nd edition (loyal) space marine arms and greenstuff a cuff to make it more chaos-y (or hit up a grognard; you never know).

>> No.55659517

well, then you're getting much better!

>> No.55660413

Thanks anon!

>> No.55660490

Post progress

>> No.55660579

The way I did it without an airbrush was I mixed Leadbelcher with Stegadon Scale Green and Temple Guard Blue. I'm not really sure the proportions I used but you can lighten/ darken the color by adding more Temple Guard blue or Stegadon Scale green respectively.

I wish I had some pictures but my stuff is at my parents house. Sorry.

>> No.55660582

Im canadian. Snow looks like that

>> No.55660648

Sorry bud, but it doesn't.

>> No.55660785


Dave Taylor did some for his Infardi.

>> No.55660880

I need some help.

The green I'm painting just doesn't cover.

First, I tried to paint multiple thin coats, but I watered it down to much and flowed over onto the hed as you can see. No problem, I can paint over that/correct it later.

But after that I painted even an entirely unthinned coat and you can still very clearly see the grey paint under it.

How can I paint that correctly without fuckinng up all the details?

>> No.55660918

Strip it and try again, also paint somewhere with less dirt and dust in the air.

>> No.55660930

it looks like you're using fluorescent paint, that stuffs got awful coverage

>> No.55660931

Chaos Apothecary finds no joy in his work.
Love it.

>> No.55660966

Not that anon, but it looks like white with a few heavy green and yellow washes. Plus a coat of nuln oil, of course.

>> No.55661054

silly question: what model did you use for the "pilot"?

>> No.55661057

Harambe, after he ascended.

>> No.55661090

Now this, this is awesome. I'm impressed.
What army is this for?

>> No.55661119

Multiple thin layers, give yourself a while to do it.

>> No.55661330

Late reply. The receiver of the gun is made from mastodon skyreaper batteries, bought from based chinacast. The rest of the gun is made of tubing, so was the scope on top of each.

>> No.55661383

Does anyone have this problem with curved scything talons

>> No.55661696

I guess the answer is green stuff then, any guide?

>> No.55662020

I think I'm done for the night, tomorrow I'll clean up and color the base

>> No.55662097


>> No.55662179

Hey /wip/ I'm looking for skeleton models and bits for converting my Dark Eldar Kabal. Gonna fluff it as the Kabal got crushed and the Archon gave the Haemonculus the ok to use their corpses to restore their numbers. I'm having a hard time finding the bits for it however. the fantasy stuff is either to goofy looking or way to complex, the Morghast Harbingers would be great for grots tho. Anyone know of any good third party stuff or someone I'm just missing from GW for bits?

>> No.55662258

I ended up using Mk. 111 Arm and backpack for the first one, made him dual wielding chainswords.

working on the gold details now, will post when done.

>> No.55662425

You are kind of fucked. I've tried to find 3rd party skeletons for a conversion project as well and no one seems to sell bare skeletons that aren't in a weird pose with odd dimensions

>> No.55662568

Any tips for wintery Guard tanks? Whether in terms of scheme or weathering. I'd rather avoid actual white, since it universally seems to go awry for me, unless anyone has a better suggestion on how to do it than a brush (can't afford an airbrush).

>> No.55662937

If you're still around:
Issue 16, May 2015

>> No.55663166

Buying the astra militarum start collecting box this week.
Want to paint them in a Mobile Infantry scheme from Starship Troopers.
Only have access to GW paints and need to know what colors i will need.

>> No.55663226

Looks like storm vermin fur for the clothes

>> No.55663269

I got a similar looking color scheme using P3 paints if can get access to those

>> No.55663762

I think you're right. I cant seem to find anything of value after searching for hours. Guess it's time for plan B. Archon who loves the thrill of the hunt and searches for new and dangerous prey. Plenty of fur pelts and other trophies for him and his Kabalite Warriors. The Coven will get to use what remains for their art. Anvil industry and some good furpelts and fur cloaks, any one know of other good places to get fur pelts? I guess I could kit bash some Space Wolves.

>> No.55664811

Which aelves with one leg repositioned. Face is from the deer riding ones.
Well, it will be on the slaanesh side of my board, so probably alongside my emperors children, which are mainly just 40 noisemarines and Lucius. Not fully sure what to run it as, this is also why I'm having a hard time figuring out what to do with the right arm.

>> No.55664819

Anybody tried converting primaris models into devastators? If like to bring some heavy weapons to my list but I prefer the primaris look to the traditional sized marine

>> No.55664916

Dreadnought, hellbrute, Penitent engine, Defiler?

>> No.55664932

Buy devastators.
Simple swap out of weapons to primaris, hands are the same size so the weapon trade should go easily. Backpacks may need a bit of tweaking, but it is probably just a case of replacing them with the devastator backpack.
Bonus, with the remains, you can make more tactical looking tacticals.

>> No.55664981

Finally got my hands on the Intercessors multiparts kit, I have to admit, I'm a bit disapointed. They're actually less posable than Tac Marines. The simple fact that the upper and lower body end up being one piece and that hand on the rifle underbarrel makes it harder to convert or to put something else in their hand like a CCW.
I'll have to try and file those fingers but it won't be as neat as it could be. I wonder why they went for that, instead of the old design of two completely separate arms.

>> No.55665077

Cant comment on base color but that scheme is looking good. Much better than it first was.

>> No.55665115

Not an expert at GS but I would try to do it something like this:
- get marine head, shave away some of the facial features
- add GS and sculpt it into curved rectangular
- either press the slits into GS or make them separetly
- add other small stuff you want to

Dont know if that is helpful at all but meh.

>> No.55665167

Would these look decent with genestealer cult heads and different arms? They're the closest look to a civillian, but the shit design is putting me off of risking the cost for an infantry pack, which could be better spent on the reliable but boring cadians.

>> No.55665178

Just get some dirt cheap catachan models from ebay and genestealer cult bits.

>> No.55665255

dude where'd you get the bird ? i might want to do a similar conversion.

>> No.55665406

Not him, but I'm debating what colour to do the capes on my dudes and my armour is a similar colour. Do you have any more pics? The yellow looks surprisingly good.

>> No.55665766

What do you want to build? Some kind of militia?

>> No.55665782

How does milliput handle, compared to greenstuff?

It looks like it's around five times as cheap, but can you get the same level of detail? Is it much more brittle once cured?

Do you definitely need the superfine white variant for 28 mm models, or does the standard yellow/grey work just fine?

>> No.55665795

release me from this pain

>> No.55665848


Yeah, it's fluorescent paint.
I didn't know it covers so horribly, will multiple layers cut it, though?

I guess tge next time I'll be painting that I use a white foundation first

>> No.55665856

You are painting white wrong. Look for a guide and try again anon

>> No.55665857

Why ? It's tabletop/10, anon. Good work so far.

>> No.55665863

The grey lines are FUBAR. Start over.

>> No.55665932

I would start over, but your sort of on the right track (you're just not implementing it well). Bring it back to base colors, seal it up with a gloss varnish, and use either a micro pen or some oil paint to panel line it.

>> No.55665950

That shit looks really good. Well done.

>> No.55665971 [DELETED] 


>> No.55665974

I'm aware, I think it will look fine though

thanks, tabletop is what I'm going for since it's a pretty tough model to paint for me since it's so big and there are no defined lines, as well that I haven't painted anything in months

I think it will look fine, just need to clean the lines up with white. a pen would have been the better idea though

I have this on the way too which motivated me to get this finished

>> No.55665994

Whats /tg/'s opinion on Raven Guard with Polynesian swirls?

Nothing too overt, just some swirls and dots on one leg in a subtle colour. I've seen it in the 30k art and it looks cool.

>> No.55666007

Blast from the past. My friend had a couple of the Nid critters they produced.

>> No.55666019

Haha xD ebin meme! XDdD

>> No.55666026

that one in particular keeps teasing me because an ebay seller has one listed as Eldar. I don't know if I'll ever get the other Eldar ones because I want the boxes too and they're rare enough

>> No.55666095

Complete beginner here.

What am I supposed to do with the cracks on the side when I assemble the 2 part space marine torso? Put glue in the crack and prime over it?

>> No.55666153

i dunno man, check google and see if fw has a website.

>> No.55666184

How rare are Johnny's? Is it once in a blue moon kind of thing where they actually pop up on ebay

>> No.55666190

Theres a variety of ways to do it sometimes glue is enough and it takes care of it if it's an actual gap I would get some green stuff or the liquid variety to fix it

>> No.55666225

I think it looks acceptable. still needs more touching up and some transfers though

>> No.55666313

Make your own like I did!

>> No.55666323

whats... a Johnny?

>> No.55666613

I use the "Citadel Recommended" colors of Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, edge highlight with Wild Rider Red, and get similar results

>> No.55666714

How would you guys make a World eaters Dark Apostle from a resin Dark Apostle model? different maul? colors?

>> No.55666751

8th ed kits so far seem to have a bit of a pose variety issue. Not happy.

>> No.55666785

Where the FUCK can I buy the actually good (discontinued) archon plastic set, or at least his body

>> No.55666845

that's metal or "finecast" not plastic. Only place I can think of is ebay

>> No.55666871

spray mechanicus standard grey, wetbrush(duncan has tutorial for space yiffs) thunderhawk blue, then highlight with fenrisian grey

>> No.55666932

well god damn it

is there any way to easily get rid of the shitty skin cape on the new model?

>> No.55666939

Don't think so, recasters now know they're worth a good price. More and more seem to pop.

Decades ago, Citadel released a set of Mk VI beekees sculpted by Aly Morrison and the Citadel Design Team. In very early advertisements, da Studio Ladz gave them all names, and they chose the cast of the Adam West Batman TV serial as their inspiration. There's a Brother (Adam) West, Brother (Burt) Ward, Brother (Burgess) Meredith, Captain (Cesar) Romero, Brother (Frank) Gorshin, etc. One of the models was named Brother Craig after Yvonne Craig, the actress that played Batgirl.

A few years later (c. 1990), Citadel published their Blue Catalogue. None of the old marines had fun names any more, just part numbers and descriptions: "Bolter 10", "Power Sword and Bolt Pistol", "Meltagun", etc. Brother Craig, however, was strangely absent; so, if he ever had a proper part number, we have no idea what it might have been.

Fast forward to a couple of years ago, when some clever anon grabbed this picture of Brother Craig and applied the "Kill 'em All Johnny!" treatment to it. Brother Craig looks like he's having a conversation with his bolter magazine the same way Johnny from Ed Edd, and Eddy has with his wooden "friend", Plank.

Then it was all downhill from there ...

>> No.55666964

its a clip. a magazine is something you read

>> No.55667209

the terms are literally interchangeable. K just made up that they weren't to troll.

>> No.55667250

It’s a magazine, a clip is something a girl holds her hair up with

>> No.55667345


>> No.55667363

Its a magazine, clips are something you watch on youtube.

>> No.55667505

Yo are you on GWG? Seen some blasters that looked just like that.

>> No.55667813

I made a similar post on /aos/ a few days ago but I didnt get any help so I thought I'd try here.
I want to make the tassle on top of my elven swordmasters a pink to create a sort of "resurrection of spring" look to my army. My inspiration for the color and potential design for the tassels is a pink rose petal so at the top of the tassle it will be mostly cream or white and then shade down into a more viberant pink.
What's the best way to achieve this? Running a thinned pink wash down the tassels in multiple coats to build up or is there another way? Is this even a good idea?
Pls help.

>> No.55668253


>> No.55668416

How do I get rid of cracks between pieces? The front of Cawl's robe around his legs consists out of 4 pieces and it's very obviously seperate pieces.

>> No.55668417

Where the tassle meets the helmet should definitely be the white point, so you'd basically just glaze the shade of pink you want down the length of it.

If you make the surface area you cover smaller and smaller with each coat you'll get a nice transition to the solid pink.

Looking forward to seeing it.

>> No.55668437

Vallejo Plastic Putty

Spread it through the cracks, let it dry then file, sand and scrape away the excess. It's the best putty I've used.

>> No.55668444

'Orking on my Battlewagon, what do you lads think?

>> No.55668479

I like the orange, but it seems like it could do with a little bit of edge highlighting - loooks a little flat. Love everything else about it, though.

>> No.55668617


I'm a bit torn about the inside of the passenger area. The bottom is grey with some highlights and various washes. I'd do the inside in grey too but it'd look a bit boring.

>> No.55668700

I'm unfamiliar with how these are built: By "inside" you mean "actual inside" or the part of it you've shown? Maybe you could have orange highlights for panels and pillars like you did already, or have the pillars be more of a metallic colour.

>> No.55668716

What problem?

>> No.55668739

I've bought some citadel paints and just was about to go down on my Infinity minuatures for the first time, but I realised that I forgot to buy skin colour and a wash. I'm gonna have to order these online and here's a question:
if I prime the miniatures and paint the basics, can I get back to them in a week to finish the skin and wash them, or will it look like shit and I should just do it all in one go?

>> No.55668743

I will never get why they discontinued this one.

>> No.55668750

The loading bay on the back, the open-topped area where the Ork boy stands.

You can't really see the inside, so I'm not sure if I'll bother to paint it.

>> No.55668767

Opinions on how my sorc is turning out so far? I really need to build a light box

>> No.55669114


The problem is the shape, there's hardly any room to work in using a file or anything other than a brush without damaging areas.

>> No.55669184


>> No.55669311

WIP turning three KV-2 models into Kill Tanks

This one has more dakka and less boom than the last one I made.

>> No.55669331

The last one, just for bragging

>> No.55669346

>looted KV-2's
>Not maximum boom
You disappoint me anon

>> No.55669376

The first and the upcoming third one should be up your ally then Anon. But this second one was made to represent a Giga Shoota turret, for when you really need to wipe out all the guardsmen from one handy turret.

>> No.55669546

In the grim darkness of the 41st millennium, the Low Gothic word for a detachable magazine is "clip."

>> No.55669770

I hold my pen between the tips of every finger but the pinkie. Not like I don't write or draw often either, it just feels more stable and assures the tip of the instrument is parallel to the writing surface instead of writing with the side of the ball point or lead point

>> No.55669794

Finally got around to re-posing and re-painting my first Hive Tyrant, now with basing. Gonna search my bits box to see if I can add something fun to the base, but otherwise, very happy with how he turned out.

>> No.55669837

Better version of that first picture because the collage maker cropped it weirdly

>> No.55669892


>> No.55670217

Did you make the cloak out of a fucking fruit roll up?

>> No.55670237

Slowly but surely making progress.

>> No.55670378

I made a mock-up picture of my plan to convert an Archon using scourge legs to create an action pose. Thoughts?

>> No.55670626

cool color scheme anon! What did he look like before, same color scheme?

>> No.55670695

Posting earlier, in a dying thread, yay.
Rdemptor is pretty much build, decided to just call it a chaos one, or use whatever cybot profile chaos get with that weapon loadout. Originally I considered giving her a sword in the right hand, but the maulerfiend hand didn't look to good next to the normal one, and I would probably mess up trying to recreate a similiar one for the right side, next to building the sword, and I liked how the gatling gun looked.
Same for the small gatling, it won out over an upside down flamer.
while the posability in the arms is nice, I always had the feeling I need one more in either the shoulder or the elbow. Normally the shoulder would only rotate the same way as it does on a cybot, but cutting of the stoppers isn't that hard.
Sorceress had some work done as well, arms look better now, and I can do her hair tomorrow, no pic though.

>> No.55670777

Looks amazing! What kind of scheme do you think you will go with?

>> No.55670847

It will go alongside my other slaanesh CSM models, so most likely a deep purple with gold, and the rest will be figured out as I go along.

>> No.55670903

How do I replace the bolt pistol with a plasma pistol on Khorne Berzerkers? Clip off the hands?

>> No.55670920

why sir, i like your classiness

>> No.55670943


Also how many Zerkers can hold plasma pistols? 3 or 2?

>> No.55671028

since my maltabois are all done until I get basing mats, I touched up my death corps of craig

>> No.55671046


>> No.55671068

could work pretty well, although maybe rotate the body to the right a bit so he's not standing at such an awkward angle

>> No.55671220

nice, this is my small collection of epic

>> No.55671366

is it highlighted/shaded? the colours look quite flat at the moment imo

>> No.55671562

Really like the hand holding the gun. Proppa orky

>> No.55671588

up to 2

>> No.55671612


Alright, thanks for the answer. Also I'm guessing the sheathed swords are just for decorations and isn't used on the table right?

>> No.55671639

Yeah, just like the CSM's knives

>> No.55671810

Fuck now I want one for my Word Bearers. I'd probably use it as a leviathan pattern dreadnought. That'd be ok right?

>> No.55672099

I considered something like that as well, checked the fw side and made this bad comparisation with their image and some of my own, Leviathan is on an 80mm base and the redemptor on a 90mm one. If I had something on 80mm I'd have put it in there too. Perfectly normal Hellbrute for scale.

>> No.55672280

That's very helpful anon, thanks! I play 30k too so I think I'll stick to the idea of a leviathan

>> No.55672314

Starting on a small, cheeky conversion. I don't like the pose or the clunky weapons of the Steel Legion Commander model so I'm gonna make some adjustments.

Bit more filing, the gap to be filled around the pistol, and maybe some extra bling will suffice.

>> No.55672373

I pretty much always save skin to the end (depending on miniature or course) and its never gone wrong. I might just base coat and wash though

>> No.55673581

You can get some pretty small ended files, and your hobby knife is pretty small too.

Also if you fold sandpaper and just use the tiny little triangle you make you can get it in there.

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