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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.50424961 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.

>> No.50425600

We're already a 100+ replies deep at >>50421276 but that OP forgot the name. We can use this one afterwards.

>> No.50426153

Lookin for input, this was just a tester so it's a bit sloppy, main focus was getting the green down, used underhive ash as a light dry brush, curious what people think.


>> No.50426207

Skin's done right

>> No.50426249

Working on my BB team, the Mordheim Mon-Stars. Any suggestions for colors to go with the purple?

>> No.50427532

woke up early yesterday morning feeling inspired, so i just started kitbashing a model for Bran Redmaw. didnt really have a plan for him and nowhere near being done. will definitely make a werewulfen form for him tho!

>> No.50427834

looks like a gay dad

>> No.50428042

that a bad thing?

>> No.50428358

If the point is a simple tabletop the job's a goodun.

>> No.50428447

Is there a place one can buy highish quality prepainted minis? Every single one on eBay is complete shit and I only want one for my desk.

>> No.50428581

Commission painters often have some finished products on their website for sale to anybody. If there's something specific, just have a commission painter do exactly what you want.

>> No.50428777


drop me an email at [email protected] maybe I can do one for ya

>> No.50429160

Current WIP of dung beetle knight from Kingdom Death

>> No.50429612

my only real complaint would be the skull is too clean

>> No.50429662

Neurothrope just got a manicure. It'll look like the other Zoanthropes by the time it's done.

>> No.50429680

It's a sports team so you gotta go vibrant. I'd suggest gold or orange.

>> No.50430451

Damn. Is the thread dead tonight or what?

>> No.50430506

i found a commisar i thought i had stolen. hidden in a bookshelf. also one of the first models i painted. well, within about two months of starting.

>> No.50430607

As in you thought you stole it? Or you thought that the model was stolen?

>> No.50430786

a few months ago we were having open homes (my family rents) with lots of prospective buyers coming through. i had to work one day, and while i had family home and the real estate were present, that night i realised i couldnt find the model, which at the time was the pride of my collection and my only model of any value. somehow he got four shelves lower than where i was displaying him, and behind a row of books.

>> No.50430822

Well it's good that you found him. He's a little dusty, but still looking good.

>> No.50431400

Hey, are there any Dark Elf niggas in here that could suggest me a helmet to use for a Malekith Conversion?

>> No.50431456

Never mind, Im a retard, waste of dubs,

>> No.50431529

Any tips on removing cured greenstuff? i recently got some free time on my hands and looking back at some work i did before the break i'd like to redo it or at least remove the greenstuff.

>> No.50432382

Should just peel away as it is non-adhesive. Get a fresh scalpel blade under it and lift I away from the model, it should just pop off in mostly one piece.

>> No.50432788

really is dead tonight.

what do you guys think of my edge highlighting? i think it might be a bit heavy.

>> No.50432992

>Dismembered head


>> No.50433032

There actually is another WIP up but OP didn't bother to make it searchable


>> No.50433520

Hey /wip/, I'm painting my DEldar basically like pic related, but with a darker bronze weapon and purple highlights, but I don't like the skin loincloth so I'm looking for suggestions for what colour to do it. I'm thinking green, for meme magic, but I'm not sure.

Also no pic of my model because of potato phone

>> No.50433641

Just got a little box from the friendly chinaman Z.
This was the first time i ordered from them and i'm really surprised how good the quality is. I expected less. Well worth the $3 + 3 for shipping.

Delivery time took 11 days from China to Europe btw.

Fun fact: I'm not sure if they use real GW bases or if they recast them as well.. if they do, they even copied the little "GW 2003" tag on the bottom of it.

>> No.50433671

I'm done with my first sentinel which is also my first vehicle since I came back to the hobby a month ago. I'm really happy about how it turned out, too bad I can't take pictures for shit, this pic is missing a lot of details...

>> No.50433684


I've been on the fence about ordering a lot of stuff him for years but it looks like his quality has drastically improved. Nice! No weird smells I hope?

>> No.50433739


Z has problems occasionally, I haven't had a single order from him where I haven't had to get a significant amount of it replaced (missing parts, broken bits etc.) Still, nice and cheap though. CCON would be your best choice if you wanted the best quality, however he has far less to choose from and his shipping takes a while longer.

>> No.50433849

Just finished this little guy. Still need work in the base, tho. Any thoughts?

>> No.50433958

Some of your highlighting is a little sloppy, like on the groin and fingers. A little more water mixed in would help smooth the application. And the highlight colour looks strange since the base is metallic and the highlight isn't.

>> No.50434077

Thank you anon. I must admit I´m terrible at highlighting, but I am trying to improve my skills. The problem with the colour is that I haven´t found yet another blue metallic color, and highlighting with silver or so looks absolutely horrifying.

>> No.50434132

Mix a bit of your blue metallic with a bit of runefang steel and you'd probably have a lighter metallic blue.

>> No.50434141

Hail Hydra Dominus.

>> No.50434257

Anyone tried to make convert a standard Sentinel into a Powerlifter?

Forge World doesn't sell this sweet kit anymore :(

>> No.50434373


Vallejo metallic medium

>> No.50435635


Why is Duncan so fucking based?

>> No.50435775

Based, washed, shaded, and highlighted, more like.

>> No.50435779

Always remember to thin your weights. And apply 2 sets for a nice strong finish.

>> No.50435829

Remember to mix your blood with a little water to get the oxygen flowing smoothly.

>> No.50435956



>> No.50436078


>> No.50436404

An' yer workout is finished!
An' you should notice tha results in no time at all.

Always remebah to do multiple light reps instead of one heavy one. Otherwise you may hurt yerself an' could damage the miniature.

>> No.50436450 [DELETED] 

>Not going ass to grass on those squats. Maybe you should have applied two lighter sets instead of one heavy one, Duncan. Otherwise you'll damage those miniatures you call your quads.

>> No.50436462 [DELETED] 

>Not going ass to grass on those squats.

Maybe you should have applied two lighter sets instead of one heavy one, Duncan. Otherwise you'll damage those miniatures you call your quads.

>> No.50436480

Hey guys. Andy here.

What side of a brush do I use to paint my Eldar?

>> No.50436483

>Not going ass to grass on those squats.

Maybe you should have applied two lighter sets instead of one heavy one, Duncan. Otherwise you'll damage those miniatures you call your quads.

>> No.50436517

I can't wait for the next one

>"Andy's come back to the studio with his Eldar army today and wants to know how to get the lid off of a pot of Citadel paint!"

>> No.50436532

An' always rememba to do three thin posts ratha than one thick one

>> No.50436540

>> No.50436577


"Whoops I messed the formatting on that post up. I'll just delete it and try again."

"Fuck! I messed it up again! Oh well. Third time's the charm right?"

Also that filename lol

>> No.50436760

in certain parts of the world (maybe in 40k universe as well, IDK) that could get you stoned i suppose?

>> No.50437169

Anyone fluent in Korean here? I found this sculptor guy on Twitch and there's a bust that looks like Big Boss. I just don't know if it's just a prototype or can you build them from somewhere or something.

Twitch user's name is songlineart

>> No.50437227

maybe he speaks english too, or at least can read it? or just type a google translate 'where can you get big boss bust'

>> No.50437404


his stream is set to Korean only

also there are bunch of Big Boss busts available online but I've not seen the one in his videos. Very possible that he just sculpted that one for himself and not for a company.

>> No.50437420

There is a first time painter on twitch right now... its kinda adorable how he tries to get drybrushing right.

>> No.50437469

god fucking damnit duncan, squat to depth you limey fuck

>> No.50437487 [DELETED] 

Since OP is a faggot who won't post links: https://www.twitch DOT tv/agseven

Give him tips, fellow nerds.

>> No.50437518 [DELETED] 

Well, there are like 5 guys online and he has "first time painting" in his title.. i figured you might find him yourself if you are interested.

>> No.50437567 [DELETED] 

This is /tg/, the land of neckbeards and/or basement dwellers. I demand that you hand everything to me on a silver platter, you La La Homo Man.

>> No.50437862

So frustrating

>> No.50437909

still working on big n red. he has extremely detailed skin.

>> No.50438278

Working on this singular sister still. Does the red gun look ok? How is the contrast on the cloth?
It's the first time I've tried true metallic metals too, I don't think its been super successful but it looks ok. Not sure how to improve it really though as I don't know what I've done wrong yet!

>> No.50438516

are you sure he's not sculpting those on stream?

>> No.50438653

please give me tips on thinning my paints for edge highlighting it always too runny or not watered enough

>> No.50438798


Thin with glaze medium, use a synthetic brush and wipe off all excess paint. You want non-runny, transparent paint. Don't try to do a highlight in one stroke, do multiple thin layers so you can control how opaque the highlight is.

>> No.50438822

hmm that banshee looks pretty good to me

>> No.50438858

You are watching a different guy. The beginner was doing Tyranids but he stopped.

>> No.50438899

Anyone have any experience painting Emperor's Shadows? They're the weeb overload chapter but damn they look so cool. And they're canon.

>> No.50438902

Yellow is a contrasting colour to purple, hence why the light yellowish metal has been chosen for the guns.
If you're going for a darker bronze (which has more red), I would definitely go for a more yellow loincloth.

>> No.50439456


It's what I speculated in my earlier posts. Which just adds to the frustration because if it's a custom I can't get one myself.

>> No.50439792

slowly basing my sylvaneths

>> No.50439837


>> No.50439873


>> No.50440299

>basing before painting
>or even before priming
You dun goofed, son.

>> No.50440516

What's the go to supplier of basing accessories? My guess would go to army painter but I'm hearing (mixed) lots about gale force nine.

>> No.50440636

>not using Vallejo pumice paste
>not basing before priming

>> No.50440639

I noticed that the line between an okayish paintjob and a great one is that dirty, blurred look okayish ones have. I assume that this is due to adding too much wash, but what makes the great ones look so neat, smooth and sleek?

>> No.50440678

>subtly incorporated

I guess GW doesn't know the meaning of the word "subtle."

>> No.50440861

Just took a sip of my mug of painting water instead of my nice hot chocolate.

How's everyone's evening going? What are you working on?

>> No.50440924

Hey folks, newish painter here: any recommendations on bloodied or soaked fabric? I'd love to paint Skitarii robes to appear as gauze with blood soaked through in places, but I'm assuming throwing on red wash would look pretty silly.

>> No.50440944

Not drinking liquid plastic for a start. I once dreamed I had just taken a big gulp of the muddy and swampy thing in the cup I use for my painting water and woke up coughing my lungs out.
It's been a nice day. I'm currently painting my Cold One Riders. The Cold Ones themselves are painted and this will probably be my last unit of GW miniatures, so I'm going slow and trying not to rush it or make a mistake.

>> No.50440995

I've done that. Never a good feeling.
I'm working on trying to make my sisters look less boring while improving their previous paint job. This one is 90% done, just the bags and some of the details to do. I tried to do the pupils for the eyes but not sure how it'll come through in pictures. They aren't wonky looking at it straight on though.
Thinking about hair colour and wondering if I should do them all ginger for the contrast or keep the hair realistic browns/blacks/blonde

>> No.50441027

Ran by the FLGS earlier to pick up part of my secret santa loot and get some new paint, and learned they have a Miniatures Market this Saturday in time for me to be off work.
So, pretty good. Fantastic if I didn't have to clock in in...16 minutes.

>> No.50441050

taking a few days off from work but stressed out anyway

I'm cleaning and assembling horses for my marauders

I avoid drinking my paint water by using special cups that I never ever use for drinking.

>Not drinking liquid plastic for a start.
butanone glue can kill you anon please stay safe

>> No.50441248

I spat it out before I had actually consumed any which was handy. Any reason for moving away from GW stuff?

Like the scheme, that's some lovely highlighting on the red. Could imagine those sisters fighting on an ice world. Pupils look decent to me, not too big.

I feel ya, I need to head to bed soon to wake up for work tomorrow...

I never use this cup for drinking anything, that's whats annoyed me. Its literally my special water cup.

>> No.50441369

they're not really famous for it no

>> No.50442959

Overall im happy with how it came out, I'm still getting the hang of faces.

>> No.50443077

thicc, uneven coats. nice scheme, though.

>> No.50443204

Yeah im an absolute retard when it comes to even coats. At tabletop distance my minis look their best. I plan on switching to airbrush soon so I can get those nice even base coats.
Or colored spray primer, whatever works best.

>> No.50443227

Paint noob here, how do I achieve this plasma? And would it look good with a green glaze.

>> No.50443281

its alright, it all comes with practice. airbrush is best for even basecoats but you'll need to practice with that as well.

>> No.50443335

I use calgar blue for plasma then do a heavy wash of drakenhof nightsade for my plasma guns. Gives it a glossy-glowing effect and looks nice. Might do it with a brighter shade of blue but calgar blue gets the job done well.

>> No.50443354

I don't know about that exact shade, but Duncan did two plasma effect tutorials, one for the plasma gun, and one for the Skitarii Arc Rifle. Check them out!

>> No.50443363

I'll go gold, wouldn't want my team to have the clemsux colors

>> No.50443385

I didn't know about the arc rifle one. I;ll check that. The plasma tutorial didn't produce good results in my hands.

Thanks, I might try a white base with teclis blue instead.

>> No.50443442

Teclis blue is a great choice too.

>> No.50443486

Does Z usually take smaller orders from new clients? I'd hop right in if I could get just a few models, but I can't really spend $300 to get added to china mans trusted list

>> No.50443554

I bought a bunch of infinity minis and assembled them, now I need to prime them... In winter...? Any one got experience with that? Some buddy's say that I should do it. It's around 3 °C here

>> No.50443593


>> No.50443620

the first two greys are for another part of the gun. these are just two beginner tutorials for them. as for looking good in green, yes, you can just replace whatever blues used for greens, and it'll work. same with pretty much any color.

>> No.50443697

Brush primer or assemble a tarp apparatus in your basement. Maybe something like this.

>> No.50443744

I'm trying to use vallejo game color over primer, but it seems like the primer is just absorbing the color. I have to put multiple thick as hell coats for the color to stay and not have gray primer showing through, and then its way too thick. Any suggestions?

>> No.50443769

This'll sound stupid, but did you wash off the the mold release agent?

>> No.50443778

What do you mean?

>> No.50443814

mail came today

time to get to work cleaning all these guys

>> No.50443854

The sprues come covered in the stuff they use to get them out of the molds in the manufactorum. If the paint's not sticking then try a warm water, or alcohol bath.

>> No.50443874

Shit, so that actually persists through the primer? Thanks for the advice m8.

>> No.50443890

It MIGHT. Mold release removal is the power cycling of paint troubleshooting.

>> No.50443939

are you sure you are shaking your paints thoroughly? vallejo dropper bottles are notoriously difficult to shake well well brand new.

Try holding it upside down and shake vigorously for a solid 30 seconds.

>> No.50443965

I live 30 mins from this location

>> No.50443980

That might be it, usually the paint is a bit more watery than my GW stuff.

>> No.50444234


I like seeing someone paint these who actually knows what he's doing, it kills me to see people slathering these with paint when they actually, miraculously, manage to be more expensive than GW

Obviously you need to neaten up the gold a bit but I like the blue effect so far

>> No.50444295


was this supposed to seem like the set up to a gay porno?

>> No.50444311

Both mine and my buddy's WIP armies on our homemade gaming table featuring terrain almost entirely made from garbage/sprues. This is my first foray into making terrain/modeling in general and I'm loving it. Thanks for all the encouragement, fa/tg/uys.

>> No.50444913


What's the size of the table? Are you planning to make multiple panels and stick them together or just play on a smaller board (I'm assuming that's not 6'x4')

Looking pretty good overall, even though they're made from garbage I would advise putting something circular and flat over the open holes in the four-can piece, and filling in the corrugation on the cut side of cardboard sheets; I would normally use wall-filler for that but since it's supposed to be metal, you could use thin strips of card (such as cereal boxes) for a flat surface

I can't tell if you've used wall filler or textured paint or what on the buildings but I've gotten pretty good use out of dollar store wall-filler for basing and terrain, could come in handy for future pieces if you decide to make more

>> No.50445009

Thanks for the comments! I do have plans to fill the holes on those can pieces, I'm just not sure what direction I want to go with regarding the 4-can generator looking one.

The table 6x4 and I plan on cutting it in half with a circular saw and putting a piano hinge on it for easier transport.

Regarding what I use on the buildings, it's a texture paste I made myself with some household items, but I'll definitely check out wall filler from the dollar store. I've found that the stuff that I made is more appropriate for mud and basing the terrain pieces that are flocked like the crater and the tank traps and not so much for the sides of buildings.

>> No.50445438


The wall-filler is definitely better for ruins or primitive structures, just fyi, it's pretty difficult to get a smooth finish (although I do apply it with popsicle sticks and toothpicks, which might not help), it can also be helpful to build up a mound of "dirt" (filler) and then glue sand or flock over it, such as on building bases. You could make a crater out of just mounded up wall-filler with some sand sprinkled on it, for example.

You can also get huge bags of "river rocks" from home depot for $5 iirc, you have to rinse the dirt off them but they come in handy for terrain, especially if you use them alongside sand, wall-filler, etc.

It looks like you might already have used some, but if you weren't aware of it sprue-rubble (cut up chunks of sprue) is an old-school way to make piles of junk for ruined buildings.

pic related is a small, simple ruined building, I've smeared the wall-filler in between the timbers in a fairly thin layer, but I did the rubble-piles before I discovered the wall-filler, built them up with all kinds of junk, would have been much simpler to use the filler as a base and glue a smaller amount of sand/rocks/sprue-rubble/popsicle stick chunks on it.

You can also stir sand or small rocks directly into the wall filler for different effects.

It's not super-strong, so I seal it down with a few layers of thinned white/elmers glue to make sure it doesn't crack or crumble, and primer/paint over that makes it pretty sturdy.

>> No.50445559


also should mentioned that after the filelr is dry you can "sand" it with a wet paper towel, as well as gently scraping with an xacto knife, to clean it up. I have not yet cleaned this building up so it still looks pretty messy, especially the corners

>> No.50445611

Damn anon that is shaping up to be some fine work. I could definitely see that on shelves once it was done. Thanks for the advice. Right now every piece of terrain I make is some experiment with another method. I just finished my latest piece so I'll definitely move on the methods you described, it sounds like I can save myself a lot of trouble with that wall filler.

>> No.50445981

Tyranid prime, just needs a base.

>> No.50446002

Anyone got any experience doing custom chapter marking transfer sheets? Or is there anyone around who sells them?

>> No.50446011

Used liquid green stuff to texture the carapace/chitin/shell/etc, pretty happy with it but wish I had gone heavier on the texture.

>> No.50446026

Last one

>> No.50446054


The bone effect looks quite nice except that final edge highlight was too thick (both the line and the paint) especially down the middle of the sword, on the right hoof, that middle leg plate, and the central chest plates.

Purple ridges on the arms/whip could use a very minimal highlight just to make them stick out a bit more

>> No.50446190

I'm pretty sure dakkadakka has a tutorial on making your own transfers

>> No.50446251

Thanks, some of the edge highlights were rushed before work but I appreciate the constructive critisism.

>> No.50446348

How do I do this, and is there a tutorial?

>> No.50446358

Did you even read the thread?

>> No.50446378


Really? Read the thread, dickhead

>> No.50446408

All I saw was that some anons posted that it was OSL work, and I wanted to know if /wip/ had knew of any good tutorials.

Really should have worded my post better, actually.

I am tired.

>> No.50447121

This is a technique I've used many times. In the image you posted, They've probably just added many thin layers of white, as well as some edge highlighting of thin layers of blues, and no drybrushing. like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmtdTFjjqTg

>> No.50447412

Does anyone still sell a truly random bitz box package anymore?

I used to love the creativity shots I got from going through a mixture of bits from different kits and manufactures

>> No.50447984

seriously though, how DO you get the lid off with fucking paint spilling all down the rims

only been a week and my metallic pots are covered in dry paint

>> No.50448125

Painted the first skaven for my blood bowl team
Think I'll do a sewer base like the skavenblight scramblers one

>> No.50448199

I have no idea Anon. It was my first order and they didn't complain about it being just one mini.
Since i had no experience with chinese recasters in general (and also really wanted to have that lokhir fellheart mini) i figured it might be best to start with a small "test" order to see how it works out.

>> No.50448202

Nice, how much did you pay for these?

>> No.50448224

Looks great, anon. I love Skaven.

>> No.50448522

/wip/, how do I effecively assemble my Sktarii troops to save my time and money? How should I go about Special Weapons, with the Arquebus needing the huge base and generally being a weird weapon? Stick a bit of plastic to its foot's end and just magnetize the weapon normally instead of using the big base?

>> No.50448744

it looks really good man, im not too sure with the gun, it would of been better if it was black but thats my taste, i would in this case recommend a darker red would be more spot on.
the cloth and the Armour look very nice though
Well Done!

>> No.50448781


It's not bright enough at the origin of the glow

>> No.50449342

/wip/, do you have any helpful advice to model Noise-Weaponless Noise Marines to still make them distinguishable from generic CSM in my soon-to-be-made Slaanesh army?
Suggestions regarding the colors are accepted too, but I'd prefer them to have the same color scheme as the rest of the army I was thinking of making them mostly golden, with purple/pink as secondary color (they're meant to take the "Emperor's Children keep that name to mock the Imperium" to the next level by wearing the same colors of the Emperor and the Custodes)

>> No.50449806

So after thinking about buying a ''tentacle board'', I decided to make my own and came up with a way that I haven't found anywhere on the internet.

Just glue Spaghetti to a hard flat surface, once the glue dried up, take a negative with any sculpting putty you want (used super sculpey for pic related and put the whole board in the oven)

And voilà, you just made your own ''tentacle board'', now you can make shittons of tentacles or cables for all kinds of minis.

You can also use all kind of different sized spaghetti for different shaped tentacles.

>> No.50449840

Is pic related the best way to do shrike wings?
I thought I'd ask before I sink £16 into a box of gargoyles just to get 5 shrikes out of it.

>> No.50449883

Dunno, ''the best way'' is very subjective.

Nids have only 3 pairs of limbs and pic related has 4, so it already looks off to me, but fluff isn't that important, whatever floats your boat m8.

I'd just give them one pair of gargoyle wings, technically their wings are just ''jump packs'' and they don't really fly around the battlefield, so I think it's okay that their wings are smaller.

>> No.50449910

There are bitz sellers on ebay and elsewhere. You could check their stock for the wings.
Or you could get one box and recast any amount you like from that.

>> No.50449923


>> No.50449925

what scheme should I do my Sisters of Silence in.

I don't want to do them in Gold or Bronze

>> No.50449934

I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels that way. The picture makes it look like an insect. Also in the picture he has cut the wing at the base and pulled it in. I believe if I don't do that i should be able to run one wing down the inside of the carapace making the joint a bit stronger too. I'm just worried one set will look too small. As you say though they are only jump packs and I already assembled the warriors on their bases as shrikes was not my initial plan.

>> No.50450074

Made some more, really works perfectly.

>> No.50450113


'Your paint seems a bit thick and even gritty in certain areas. You could also work to improve your pre-paint stages of cleaning (look under the right shoulderpad rim for instance). And you need to tidy up some places where you have accidently spilled some paint. Keep practicing on those edge highlights, they are a bit sloppy now, but will look better in time.

>> No.50451585

Just need to add some blood onto the base and I am done with this nigga

>> No.50451604

Any tutorial or recommendations for that delicious snow?

>> No.50451610

>blood on the base
>not on his weapon
>not on his armor

You aint done nigga

>> No.50451797

you missed a mold line on the left writst

>> No.50452074

What model(s) is this? I think this kind of thing would look really good as a Wolf Lord for my WIP Skyrar's Dark Wolves

>> No.50452104

Its the Games Day model from...2010/11? Exalted Hero of Chaos

>> No.50452142

Anyone know the best way to make paint for wash? Or does nothing compare to citadel shade? If you can't tell I'm new to this.

>> No.50452323

I made my own nuln oil with just a mix of black craft paint and water. It works for terrain/decoration, but I wouldn't dare put it on my models. It would look like total ass. If it's one thing that is absolutely worth it from the Citadel line, it's their shade.

>> No.50452335

sup WIP?
I made an instagram if anyone wants to follow me @sexyyellowguy
I have one of you anons to thank for the username

>> No.50452366

love the back of MK3 armor

>> No.50452367


S-Shit that is sexy.

>> No.50452398


Those are made from the BoP box miniatures, right?

>> No.50452428

Sisters of Silence are not Sisters of Battle.

>> No.50452443


>> No.50452534

great work!

>> No.50452617

Anon, you know that 30k HSS all have the special weapon, including the sergeant, iirc?

They look awesome though.

>> No.50452688

I'm gonna use them as a 40k army. Will be proxying some other MK3's as sternguard and assaults marines once I order the extra bits required

>> No.50452708

Just wanna say that this table looks like you put a lotta love into it anon. Looking good, keep it up!

>> No.50453480

Ah, I see. What are you going to use the Volkites as?

>> No.50453551

Daemon prince of nurgle WIP!

>> No.50453571

Grav cannons

>> No.50453577

Trying again -__-

>> No.50453739

Thank you!

>> No.50453972

you missed a mold line on the scythe

>> No.50454089

God damn it

>> No.50454157

In my city there's a statue of a young naked boy and the dick is polished shiny like that from so many people touching it.

>> No.50454329

That's fucking neat, I actually thought about buying one of these boards. Would it be possible to make the negative ''mold'' with Milliput?

You also missed the mold line on his left hand, sorry.

>> No.50454391

Base your fabric in bleached bone/khaki or whatever, tone or wet blend it to get your desired shadows etc, then paint on your blood splashes with a deep crimson colour. After it's dry go over your blood with a very (very) thin coat khaki so there's a slight khaki cover over the blood, so it looks like blood absorbed into the fabric

>> No.50455059

the dark green is nice, not really a common nurgle shade, fits with the bronze. like a daemon prince salamander.

>> No.50455506

Time to base these brets, I think. Before I buy something else and get side tracked.

Though, playing some stronghold and starting up the witcher 3 has really made me want to build a little fort for them to garrison. Something like the old La Maisontaal, maybe...

>> No.50455549

Oh me oh my.

>> No.50455615

I need to learn how to blackline my IW. But I do them super dark so it won't be as effective as your nice yellow. Oh well, gotta try nonetheless!

>> No.50455656

Is the girl from some kick starter? I swear I've seen her before.

>> No.50455676

I like your crisp shading. And it's nice to see old school bretonnians out and about. Are they for AoS or Mordheim or something else?

>> No.50455779


>> No.50455812

Doing some very dark shading in the recesses, clearly delimiting the pieces of armor.
Pic related make it apparent.

>> No.50455857

Are these yours?

>> No.50455877

Not too sure, did them more to have them than anything else. I'm sure they'd work for just about any fantasy skirmish game once I fill the gaps with some more figures. Even Warhammer Skirmish, now that I think of it.

I'd like to get my hands on the mounted+dismounted knight of the realm at the least, but those are rare and pricey, even for 5e metals.

hello darkness my old friend

>> No.50455911

Fuck I wish. No they're from some dude on B&C. You can very probably reverse google search the pic, he explained hiw he painted almost every model.

>> No.50455927

Damn, i really want to have a marine of each legion now.

>> No.50455945

Working on the ork Guntank, did some teeth and eyebrows first. What's a good way to do rivets? Tiny shaped bobs of putty?

>> No.50455967

Son of a birthday

>> No.50456076

Get some plasticard rods and cut them up

>> No.50456078

Hey wip, sorry if questions about color schemes are considered shit, but I need some input.

I'm a newb whos gonna start my first batch of marines soon and I think I've decided on:

Dark green armor (incubi darkness)
Bronze decorative metal
Light green/yellow accessories (plasma/lenses and such)

Anyone have any ideas what secondary color (cloth and such) would fit with this?

Think white/bleached might make to much like Dark Angels and red/burgundy too much like Dark Eldar but i really like the idea of some strong contrast like that.

Again, sorry if I've broken some protocol for these threads. I've read a bit on color theory and tried out on some generators but what I really need is opinions.

>> No.50456152

For more rounded rivets you can use PVA, but try it on some scrap plasticard first because it could be quite difficult to master.

>> No.50456166

Use one of the marine scene painter thangs to show us better more what you mean anon

>> No.50456174

PVA glue? Polyvinyl alcohol?

>> No.50456264


Alright I don't know why this makes me nervous but here we go. Sorta wondering which color I should use for tabards/loincloths/cloaks and maybe possibly the shoulder(s), although I like it kinda as is.

>> No.50456305

Oh yeah, where's a good place to get corrugated plastic and mesh as suggested here? General results for plastic mesh bring up stuff for knitting and yarn canvas, while corrugated plastic brings up results for blank signs and such.

>> No.50456383

some lucky anon out there is getting a salamanders venerable dreadnought and a castellax battle automata for christmas
If I can figure out how international posting works

>> No.50456423

Holy shit I want to see how this turns out.

>> No.50456503

Citadel shades are pretty solid. I wouldn't recommend mixing your own, but if you do then make sure you mix it in large batches and do many models at once to avoid inconsistencies.

Washing is also the easiest way to make models look okay.

>> No.50456617 [DELETED] 

My first scratch-build, a Nurgle daemon prince.
No real plan for this, I've just been adding random shit for days kek

>> No.50456648

My first scratch-build, a Nurgle daemon prince.
No real plan for this, I've just been adding random shit for days kek

>> No.50456678

that's pretty freaky looking
... I love it

>> No.50456687


Be sure to add a crappy powerplant, smokestacks with mufflers, stuff like that.

Easiest way to do rivets is to buy plasticard rod, like the other anon mentioned. About the diameter of angelhair spaghetti. You cut little discs off the rod. (Put your finger over the tip of the rod you're cutting, cause when you cut it the little disc will go flying across the room.)

To glue them, I put a couple drops of superglue on a piece of scrap cardboard or whatever. Then you poke a disk with the tip of your craft knife, barely touch it to the droplet of glue, and just stick it directly on the mini. If you try to use tweezers, you're just going to get glue on them and the rivets will get stuck on the tweezers rather than the model.


You can get plasticard with diamond-plate patterns in it, though I think you pretty much have to order it online. Never seen it in hobby shops. For grating, you can get patch kits for screens, that consist of smallish pieces of metal mesh. Hardware stores carry them. Craft stores will also carry "granny mesh," which is a plastic mesh used for sewing and embroidery. Either can work.

>> No.50456714

>sprayed whilst on the CLEAR flight stick


>> No.50456745


I can see you've already rough-beveled the edges of the plates, which is good. You can accentuate the effect even more by adding some notches and nicks to the edges with your knife. Bullet divots are also great. Easiest way is to use a hand drill to make a shallow divot, then give it an asymmetrical, rough chamfer with your knife. A couple narrow nicks radiating out from a bullet hole also looks cool.

>> No.50456787


Hey, I didn't do it. The original Valkyrie was painted before it was sold to the guy I bought it from.

He also used crappy glue, which was a huge favor in tearing the model apart.

>> No.50456821


I need to up my secret santa game ...

>> No.50456849


Oh. Easiest way to get "corrugated metal" is to steal some cardboard sleeves from a coffee shop.

>> No.50456860


Nothing better than turning fucked up vehicles you bought on ebay for cheap into ork vehicles, huh? Love it.

>> No.50456876

>Have a fuckton of models I need to prime
>primers insist on a 50-80 F operating range
>weather is in the low 40's
>all my primers won't work

Woe is me.

>> No.50456888

Ah, reminds me of using Big Gulp straws for tank cannons.

>> No.50456971

Who bloodbowl here? Greenskinz reporting in

>> No.50457078

brush on is always an option

>> No.50457097

not really, I'm sort of breaking the rules here

>> No.50457128

Stupid sexy yellow guy...

>> No.50457285

My brush-on is crap, and I don't have enough of it anyways; I have something like 50 models that need priming.

I'll just have to paint other stuff.

>> No.50457298

>No real plan for this, I've just been adding random shit for days kek

Nurgle approves.

>> No.50457372

I really like your color choices, and your paintjob is great! This sculpt is a fucking war crime though (so double kudos for making it look nice)

>> No.50457429

Which do you like? I was just thinking of buying some

>> No.50457561

Wait, why are you guys talking as if you can't just use regular paint to undercoat? I mean that's all primer is, paint, there's nothing particularly special about it.

>> No.50457612

Might I suggest wood-filler putty for wall stuco? It has worked real well for me.

>> No.50457765


Bloody Rose

>> No.50457770

>I mean that's all primer is, paint, there's nothing particularly special about it.
Uh, no, they actually are different.

primer (attempts) to form a chemical bond with the surface
(acrylic) paint forms a mechanical bond with the surface

That's why some primers are especially difficult (and sometimes impossible) to truly strip from miniatures.

>> No.50457801


You can find video tutorials for making your own wash, basically you mix ink+matte medium+flow improver

At the end of the day I don't think it's actually that much cheaper though

You can use thinned paint like this guy said >>50452323

but it's not as good. Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade will cost you like 20 bucks but they should last you a while and are pretty much all you need

>> No.50457807

>nothing particularly special
I know that primer is different, my point is that regular acrylic paint still works. As long as you finish with some sort of clear varnish, there is effectively no noticeable difference between primer and a solid undercoat of acrylic paint.

>> No.50457929

Hello expert neckbeards, is it realistically possible to file down the Chaos elements out of these shields in pic related? I need cheap shields to use on my Space Marines.

>> No.50457935

>there is effectively no noticeable difference between primer and a solid undercoat of acrylic paint
Primer makes a provable difference in durability versus straight paint. That is, literally, it's entire purpose.

Even with several coats of varnish, I wouldn't trust acrylics if you expect to be handling or moving those models with any frequency.

>> No.50457975

I have models undercoated with regular ol' paint from like 8 years ago that still hold up fine. Spray primer is good to have and all, but there's just no need to waste money on brush-on primers, and in dubious weather it's easiest, cheapest and overall a-ok to just use acrylic paint.

>> No.50457981

with a dremel, yes

>> No.50457993


Wouldn't the bit fly out of my hand if I use a dremel?

>> No.50458019

thats why you pin it to something! I use a slow speed anyways. its what I do to file down chaos markings on helmets and shit.

>> No.50458032

It's painted nicely, I just think the model could be more nurgley. It's just a normal DP model painted green.

>> No.50458056


Eh, I'll just look for another alternative. In case I change my mind, is there a cheap dremel you can recommend?

>> No.50458061


It just doesn't seem worth it. Not when there are shit-tons of third party sellers who do all kinds of fancy shield bits, for not much money.

>> No.50458079

not on me, sorry. another way is using files/that moldline remover, but the easiest way is to use something like shapeways and just grab yourself a ton of shields that way.

>> No.50458084

I've only used the gw imperial primer, not too impressed with it to be honest but it works as a last resort

>> No.50458105

You might be better off gettting breachers, https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Legion-MKIII-Breacher-Siege-Squad

>> No.50458110

there's better options out there duder, ones that might fit vanilla marines better

>> No.50458135



Wow! I never knew about this site! Looks really cool, thanks!

>> No.50458162

It'd literally be easier to just make a flat plane of greenstuff and cut out the shield shapes you want.

>> No.50458170

Would love to see some examples

>> No.50458234

well actually, after checking prices, it might just be better for you to try to pick some shields up from a bitz shop on ebay or something, or a recaster doing breachers. But if you still wanna use the originals,the only way I see is using a file/knife/moldline remover to scrape away+green stuff to make it look good again.

or just use plasticard and work from there with green stuff.

>> No.50458248

Haven't been on /wip/ in a while, but what do you think of my latest model guys - a catcher for my nordland inspired blood bowl humans.

>> No.50458278

What do you guys think of this paint scheme idea for my KDK? I can't really find an eye color I'm okay with but blue feels passable to me.

>> No.50458279 [DELETED] 

R8 this list?

I know cents aren't exactly optimal but I wanted to play models I liked more than what's competitive. Only question is which is better for TEQ/Tank killer?Las+Missile or Grav+Bolter? Also, if I were to ditch them, would I be better off with a Deathwing squad, a Thunderfire cannon and something else, or a couple of Vindicators?

>> No.50458376

Okay I read the thread of replies to this and holy shit.
Shapeways is a huge waste of money for something as mundane as shields.
You can get them literally everywhere.
Third party companies specializing in profiting off of GW's IP and other games, even historical miniature ranges would suffice if you just want flat shields.
It should only cost you few cents to get that.

If you want nicer ones check out stuff like the Hasslefree shop, they sell shields, or MaxMini, or Anvil Industries for something more tacticool. Crocodile Games sell a whole bunch of egyptian themed shields for example as well, they also have designs that work in a more generic context, like a scorpion.
If you just want flat shields it might even be easier to just cut the shape out of plastic card yourself and bend it before attaching it to a pistol/ccw hand minus the weapon.

There is so much stuff you could get tailored to your needs. Just look a little harder.

>> No.50458395

looks like Minotaurs.
I like Minotaurs.
Just be aware it looks exactly like that.

>> No.50458435

I know but god dammit their paint scheme is just so good.

Maybe I should put in more red accents somewhere? I planned on doing red paneling on the weapons at least but I could step it up a bit on their armor.

>> No.50458454

Red shins?

>> No.50458532

I've been banging my head against this for a while and can't seem to find a tutorial for it online so I'll ask here.

Any idea how to give a charred or burning look to wings? I recently got the Blood Angels Chaplain but play chaos.

>> No.50458533

Is there a recommended airbrush for begineers?

Would this work, or is considered rubbish


>> No.50458567

Honestly the chaos space marine models have so much detail you actually want a simple paint scheme with them. Red weapons should be enough red to keep your autism at bay and chaos space marines come with enough trim, skulls, spikes, and mouths to break up the brass.

>> No.50458592

Why, because you can't just take my word for it? They're buried somewhere in a pile of boxes I haven't unpacked since I'm temporarily living at my parents' place. My point is, I've noticed next to no difference between minis properly primed, and minis that are just undercoated with acrylic paint.

>> No.50458597

That's a good point actually. Thanks.

>> No.50458622

Prime indoors

>> No.50458651


not too shabby m8, maybe highlight the laces on the ball a bit brighter

It just occurred to me that there's a lot of stuff you could do with Typhus Corrosion on Bloodbowl minis

>> No.50458681

You guys think its feasible to do some kind of press mould with green stuff to get chapter badges on marine shoulders? I suck at freehanding

>> No.50458725

Reposting because I can't decide what sort of basing to do for my Death Guard.

>> No.50458746

What do you think of the vallejo wash line? im just now seeing that on the paint guide up top.

>> No.50458754

I love the base. The idea of a Blood Bowl pitch that's more dirt than grass seems very fitting.

>> No.50458762

i've seen it done. make a stamp and cut off the excess putty.
casting is an option too though. might give better consistent results.

>> No.50458882


People say they're just as good as GW, I've never tried them

I would guess they're probably not significantly worse. Vallejo paints are mostly not as good as GW (especially metallics) but they're not *that* much worse. It's about proportional to the price difference

Another option is buying the paint-can sized Army Painter dip which should last several armies worth and generally seems to be highly regarded

>> No.50458932

My latest project.

>because building is more fun than painting

>> No.50458934

sup /tg/ I have some terrain I need to paint. Is there any spray paint that I can get from a home depot or something that best matches GW's Caledor Sky blue?

>> No.50458942

>Vallejo paints are mostly not as good as GW
Butter bullshit.

They dry a little faster, but the pigment seems much finer. They're smooth. Oh so smooth. To top it off they are cheaper an you get 5ml more per bottle.

And the Liquid metal paint series by Vallejo is supposedly one of the best ones around.
Metals are tricky though.

There is no one best manufacturer for anything. Just buy what works best.

I can recommend the Army Painter washes too. Their dark shade is basically almost 1:1 the good old Devlan Mud.

>> No.50458959

The only thing vaguely worth it in that kit is the compressor (and that's even debatable, since there's no tank). Those kit airbrushes are generic Chinese POS brushes with Master's name on them; they'll work until a seal fails or your needle gets tweaked, then you'll quickly discover replacement parts don't exist. Save your cash, get branded equipment.

>> No.50458998

I don't really mind spending a lot of time on each of them, its just consistency I'm worried about. I'll look into casting but will check out stamping first.


>> No.50459083

Damn i guess theres no way to get into airbrushing without throwing down at least $250,

Thanks for saving me from that knock off

>> No.50459164

You can get in for less than $200 if you shop around; Master's tanked compressor (@ $90ish) is worth it as long as you're not running more than 1 brush, and you can get into an Iwata revo or the like for less than $100

>> No.50459175

My wip undead team.

>> No.50459211

bit tidying up, basing then 10 more of the shits.

>> No.50459273

R8 my conversion m8s

>> No.50459297

Gr8 8/8

>> No.50459303

>> No.50459361

>... and that's when Bubba Fenris smelled pork chops

>> No.50459364

fuck knows what happened there but it was too funny to change

>> No.50459373

Are there only the three teams for blood bowl? Orc, humans, skaven?

>> No.50459394

There's a shit ton man, a lot of the new teams rules are in Death Zone, but there are some other teams from the older edition that work pretty well in the new one.

>> No.50459408


Huh, so the three I find on GW are a new edition sorta? You know if theyre planning on updating the rest in that case? Seems fun

>> No.50459413

Finished this guy this week.

>> No.50459414

Just started a DIY Skyshield Landing Pad with some leftover material. Any ideas of what I should put on the sides? I'd like to make it unique.

>> No.50459417

Just bought the new Skaven team

>> No.50459466

Yea, they're releasing new models for them, but really slowly. Dwarves are probably the next to have their models released.

>> No.50459489

Double sized washes double the chance to knock over. Fuck me

>> No.50459506

Thanks bud. Might start it cause it looks pretty gud

>> No.50459518

Yea man, its a lot of fun, and if you want to start without spending a shit load of money just try getting old WHFB models off ebay and use whats in your bits to make them look more footbally.

>> No.50459851


>> No.50459987

Got a great unclean one from Z a couple weeks ago. The thing was flawless.

>> No.50460281


Z has been slipping recently. His quality is great but his delivery times have skyrocketed. Last order I made I had to wait a month before I got a tracking number. The order I made in early October, he said two weeks, but I'm still waiting for a tracking number.

>> No.50460368

Nice chip effects, anon

>> No.50460407

taking my model down to the painting competition tomorrow. I've touched it up best i can so i'm calling it finished.

>> No.50460427

So cool to watch this develop in the various WIP threads. Good luck tomorrow.

>> No.50460469

thanks! i'm looking forward to starting on my prospero box. i got some chaos familiars to add a bit of flavour.

heres this model from the box, though. for old times sake.

>> No.50460489

pic of the face

>> No.50460546

Amen to that.

I have about 15 Tempestus, 5 Flagellants, 20-odd Marines and two Dreads sitting next to me, and yet I just want to build. Going to have to force myself to paint some before I build too much more...

>> No.50460908

I can't say I'm a fan of the model/sculpt itself, but good job on the face!

>> No.50460937

Pretty amazing considering its a BoC dread. Gives me hope that maybe I can make mine not look stupid too.

>> No.50460948

nah i agree, it doesnt have any real good detailed features or weapons, or even focal points. but once i'd started and realised this it was too late to change.

>> No.50461007


I want to like the Contemptor Design, I really do. It just looks like Grimace from McDonalds with a bunch of guns though.

>> No.50461067


I don't think 40k people care about being gay.
At the beginning of the Ravenor series when he's describing his psychic mind soaring out over the city and spying on everyone he mentions seeing 2 gay dudes and he doesn't even purge them.

>> No.50461147

Honestly, That looks like it's about half done.
It shouldn't place at a contest...needs some highlights and detail.

>> No.50461356

to clarify, that picture there was half done, i just reposted it from earlier since it showed the face, which was finished. unless you mean even in the other picture it looks unfinished.

>> No.50461362

Got this guy second hand from a friend who didn't play Space Wolves anymore. I think he's come out pretty good, but I'm looking for a way to write his name on one of those pieces of parchment.


>> No.50461372

Aaaand I forgot the pic.

>> No.50461395

>When you're nearing completion on a job and the cat jostles you and you flick the brush and get paint on a detail section you'd already finished

>> No.50461482

What about this Contemptor?

>> No.50461485

>Have a ton of models to prime
>primers insist on a 50-80F operating range with under 65% humidity
>65% humidity is bullshit, needs to be under 40, minimum
>Live in Texas
>have to read the bones and send smoke signals to see if it won't start fucking storming or sweltering in 5 minutes

I did that once and regret it. Still finding bits of black dust in the bathroom. And I had the vent on...

>> No.50461813

Goddamn pets.

>> No.50461835

Could anyone identify this color?
The model looks Crimson Fisty so I assumed Kantor Blue but I'm not entirely convinced.
Are my eyes retarded?

>> No.50462105

Do you have his new email? His site is still down and he didnt respond to an old email i found and its been 3 weeks

>> No.50462140

Good luck!

>> No.50462158

nobz at vip dot 163 dot com?

>> No.50462171

it looks like a dark blue, probably kantor blue, it just has very bright highlighting that tricks the eyes at first glance.

>> No.50462222

Not saying you did do it, it still triggers me regardless of who did it.

At least you could maybe do a burning wreck on the base and have a plume of smoke climbing up around the stick, or have a cloud of smog/gas drifting down from the looted Valk. If you don't want to source a new stick and all, that is.

>> No.50462277


ccon is [email protected]
z is [email protected]

>> No.50462303

God bless you sweet anon

>> No.50462325


I forgot, this is ccons album.

Protip: wait for sale. He had one leading up to christmas from november 10-12 and I got a warlord with all the bits and gubbins for $400. He also does promotions such as spend x amount get free shit.

In case you can't tell, I prefer ccon to z. Had some bad experiences with the latter

>> No.50462401

Im on mobile and the site is shit here, does he do contemptors?

>> No.50462427


Yes. I think there's the betrayal at calth one for $18.50 and then every other one starts at $17.50 for bodies then like $6.50 - $7.50 for an arm

>> No.50462462

Thank god, I need 3 stat

>> No.50462476

His normal shipping is like a month and free over 45, or I think for $25 extra or something you get expedited within a week.

>> No.50462633

I know how you feel anon.
Currently summer in Aus and during the day its so hot I cant prime without the spray going shit and in the afternoon and morning its way too humid so the primer literally ruins the model.

I have 150+ guardsmen staring at me with their grey little eyes and fuck me if im brush priming them all.

>> No.50462875

I'm in Aus as well and just a general question. Is an airbrush affected the same way that people talk about primer? I understand that the spray cans have solvents etc that may be what is being affected but I'm not sure and thought I would ask. I did 3 models recently and there were a few really shitty areas but I also think that they might be caused from not so perfect paint stripping taking place prior

>> No.50463053

Is cold bad for spray primer?
It just hit minus temps here and I can only really spray outside. What's the negatives if any?

>> No.50463061

Anyone anon got that neat 4 step alpha legion marine (shiny metallic blue) technique picture? All I can remember is it has about four steps, uses the blue glaze, and gives a teal/blue colour.

>> No.50463068

If I want to "glue" a detail to a model temporarily, just to see how it looks, only to detach it without consequences or effort afterwards, how do I do it?

I'm trying to learn how to convert stuff.

>> No.50463074

Those metals could probably use a wash, Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil.
Would help to hide the uneven coat, too.

>> No.50463168

New thread >>50463155

>> No.50463218

Black dirt

>> No.50463260

blu tack

>> No.50463912

You live in Prague?

>> No.50465482


Because models that aren't primed usually like like shit, with heaps of paint globbed on that rubs off when you look at it. That and colored primers save a fuckload of time.

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