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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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>> No.48280026

Previous thread

>> No.48280033

R8 my bullgryn skin. Just finished the front two, the bone 'ead was my first attempt. still a WIP obvs

>> No.48280035


>> No.48280048

Fucking phone rage oh well you can still see

>> No.48280060


Radical Skeleton has not time for shields

>> No.48280076

for a moment i thought you had placed a very tiny man atop the mustached ones gun

>> No.48280078


>> No.48280115

>I doot not for myself, but for the dootiest that have come before us

>> No.48280131

is this thing any good? I've heard bad things about it, but it was free so I thought I'd ask

>> No.48280136

Finally finished building these kannons!
Now I gotta make some crew, because gw removed Grot techies from the store for some reason...

>> No.48280161

How does skeleton blow horn? He does not have lungs.
I'd expect him to smack his ribs with a stick instead honestly

>> No.48280314


>> No.48280363

First four finished

>> No.48280427

Those two are my wips, the dominus i already did 1 month ago but i am doing some minor touch ups and still working on the electro priest

>> No.48280472

It's crap

>> No.48280662


Useful for basecoats, but not much else

>> No.48280692

these are perry bodies right?

>> No.48280705

no. its just like all of their tools. Overpriced but mediocre. Get a proper airbrush.

>> No.48280712

mould lines, i can't really see highlights, but it might be the bad light. Also are they greenish? i don't understand if it's the pic or it's them

>> No.48280789

started fiddling with some scrap terminator armors I got cheap recently, trying to make them as less space marine-ish as it is possible. Thoughts?

>> No.48280880

retardedly janky, but in a beautiful way

>> No.48280915

$36.00 for a fishing tackle box worth of Eldar, Dark Eldar, and Grey Knight bits, including 2 metal assassins
Did I do gud?

>> No.48281065


>> No.48281073

Look like Renegade Ogryn that had been Dark Mechanicus'd.

>> No.48281093

Chaos envies looking this shackled together.

>> No.48281172

Sorry, I meant orks

>> No.48281246


>> No.48281251

Thank you for this.

>> No.48281261

How could we know? Those boxes vary greatly in size.

>> No.48281311

I'm not sure how to upload multiple images at a time, so I made an album on imgur. The contemptor is what I am proud of, torso and right arm are magnetized.

Any thoughts? I know zero about basing, so any ideas on that would be welcome. This is supposed to be at the siege of terra.

>> No.48281361

tfw don't provide link: http://imgur.com/a/xYRsO

>> No.48281417

I should probably invest in a device with which to hold my phone to take pictures; sorry for the blur.

>> No.48281537

photos are definitely decent, paintjob is fine, but obviously you made a lot of imperfections, which you will learn to fix.remember to shade and highlight each colour, even the white which you left flat and the black.Also don't do things you can't do, that stomped marine looks silly with the unmodified legs

>> No.48281599

What an exquisite doot guy

>> No.48281630

Would you shade white/black with nuln oil or something else?

Also, what legs would you recommend?

I could cut them and re-glue with green stuff, but have never used it.

>> No.48281676

it wouldn't be tha hard to adjust those legs with green stuff,but yes you would need that. About shading you should know thatit doesn't only mean what GW sells as shades,to shade white you can just leave a grey part in the recesses and highlight the rest so that it looks like a shade or glaze a grey colour. For black to be shaded effectively you need to start from a dark grey.

>> No.48281719

The white areas I started in a bone color and filled it in with white.

The black ones started out as eshin grey (kind of a medium one) and went black.

What I did not do was change the amount of white/black towards the edges. Should I do that?

I admit I hadn't done anything like the smashed iron warrior, but I thought it would be cool and fluffy.

>> No.48281754


It may be worth noting I did actually cut the left arm to re-angle it so that it appeared he was clawing at the contemptor, it wasn't just everything glued together as normal.

I thought about cutting the left leg so that the foot would be on the ground and the knee bent back, and the green stuff doesn't intimidate me, but getting a clean cut without killing a good centimeter or two of the model does.

>> No.48281850

It might be the pics, but the captain looks flat black, not eshing grey, also what do you mean with filled in? I really don't see the bone line on the edges. Also you can always GS back what you sawed away.

>> No.48281897

The templar probably has too many coats of black since I primed him with the bone color instead of black. I didn't realize until I was looking at the lore pictures that there was so little yellow on templar.

Ty for criticism, I am not trying to be defensive. I appreciate learning new stuff. I might try some GS usage tomorrow.

I haven't done the captains for either my tactical squads or the templar squad. I want to get a good feel for what looks good and what doesn't first.

>> No.48282199

I'm trying to figure out exactly how to paint my space lizard's weapons. Obv. some of the figures are not done, but weapons will have a gold trim. I'm attempting to show captured kind of a celestial energy in their weapons.

Any votes for 1,2, or 3? Any suggestions for other options to fit this idea?

>> No.48282233

I might not need any of these bits but by god I'll have them if I ever do.

Actually what do you guys use to store your extra bits? I've got a small tackle box for my space marines and Tau bits and one of those plastic containers that pewter sets would come in to store everything else.

>> No.48282293

also any feedback on my color scheme in general? I'm going for a dark (deep) space-themed lizard setup with purples and blues.

>> No.48282302

Got a load of empty 17ml dropper bottles to transfer my Citadel paints into. Anyone here done that and got any tips? Especially if you've done it with metallics since those don't thin quite the same as other paints.

Dat Eversor tho.

>> No.48282389

sup /tg/ I figure this is the right place to ask this, I've had a co-worker ask me to do commission paint jobs for him does anyone have experience with this? what should I charge?

>> No.48282457

>Actually what do you guys use to store your extra bits?

A bitz cabinet. What else?

>> No.48282528

I'd say it depends on how good you are at painting, and the time it takes you to paint + how chummy you are with your co-worker.

oh man I just have a spare batallion box and have them all strewn about. I think there's an oop metal galrauch in there still.

>> No.48282579

Don't underprice yourself. You'll likely become frustrated as you burn hours for little value. Don't lowball your price for the hopes of future business or for 'building your portfolio' or any of those other bullshit excuses cheap-asses use to try to get work for free or cheap.

Yes I know you might enjoy painting, but once you start getting paid for it, and have your co-worker bothering you every other day about if they're finished or not, it'll become less fun and more of a job to you.

Consider how much you want to make per hour for your time and then how much time it will think it will take you to paint the models. Then charge a little more because you'll likely run over time on the project, need to strip a model and start over, or need extra supplies or something. Build yourself a little flexibility in overhead so you're not cutting into your profits when those inevitable unexpecteds come up.

Commissioning works of art is not supposed to be cheep. If he has a unit of ten models and it takes you an hour apiece to go from sprue to table and you want $15 an hour, you're gonna need to charge $200 for it to be worth your time.

Of course if you're close friends you could consider asking him to buy you models, paints, supplies, or other things instead so that it becomes less transactional and more about the barter and the hobby that you two share together.

But please for the love of god, DO NOT UNDERSELL YOURSELF. If he only wants to pay $50 for painting that ten man unit, you're going to be making half of minimum wage when all is said and done. And at that point you almost might as well be doing it as a favor instead of having the pressure of the 'job' that you were paid for looming over you.

>> No.48282613

>oh man I just have a spare batallion box and have them all strewn about. I think there's an oop metal galrauch in there still.

These (>>48282457) are mostly metal, separated by model type (Terminators, Vanguard, Librarians, Mk VI Tacticals, spare arms, loose backpacks, etc.) with a few of the larger bins holding weird stuff like a plastic Mordheim mercenary warband or a squad of old RTB-01 beekees. I suppose if I wanted to swap bitz, I could bring the most interesting old fingz by just lugging these three boxes, but there's very little plastic in there newer than Third Edition.

>> No.48282630


... and the sprues that still have arms, weapons, and vehicle parts are in these boxes in the closet. I even have some of those goofy palm trees that came with the Third Edition boxed set!

>> No.48282673


I like the theme a lot, I like both 2 and 3 for the weapon option, reminds me of the world of Warcraft celestial weapons from ulduar which I thought were very cool.

Perhaps a slight lighter blue to highlight the scales, I'm not that much of an experienced painter so can't help you out really on how to improve. Maybe a dry brush would do it to help make it pop. Looks good anyway.

>> No.48282892

I'd throw some wash on them. It looks like you might have in some areas but it is inconsistent. A wash of some kind really should be applied to any nook and cranny to help give the model depth.

They are especially helpful in areas where two colors meet e.g. right above the knees

>> No.48282984

Spent months with a squad of deathwing sitting in a jar of superclean, just couldnt get that devils semen (white citadel primer) to strip. It was starting to flake off a little but i loathed the idea of scraping every square inch. Then, a flash of insight from my stoner days. Placed a model in a very small plastic container, salt, and a little bit of alcohol. About two minutes of vigorous shaking later, success. All but the deepest of crevices are now stripped clean. Quick scrape with a dental tool should finish the job.
Hope that trick helps someone in the future.

>> No.48283616

I put some space Marines in simple green for 18 hours and only the top layer of paint rubs off while all retain their primer or even another coat that hasn't desintegrated. Will another day be enough or is there a better option?

>> No.48284320

Started up on a new model for a new game today. So far only got basecoat + wash, but my god these models take paint like nobody's business.

I'm really happy with the color scheme. There was a moment of worry, but it is turning out pretty great.

>> No.48284746

My Tzaangors are finally complete!
It has been a long journey /tg/, much of which I have shared throughout the previous threads here.
Here is a sneak peak at the Ungors and their Cultist Champion.
Taking the dog for a walk and then I will take terrainless individual and group shot pics.
I am so incredibly happy with how they have turned out!
First time doing fire and definitely this much skin (albeit blue).

>> No.48284780

>Which kit, exactly, has the sprue to create Johnny?

I know the new Blood Angels tactical squad has the "reloading" bitz, including an arm with a bolter magazine. I've heard the same is true of the Codex tactical squad as well.

Another anon made this model using the Blood Angels bitz and an old Phobos-pattern bolt gun. The metal Johnny is reloading his Umbra-pattern bolter, but unless you buy from Forgeworld, those might be hard to find in good condition.

>he is a two parts( i think) metal piece,no sprues

He meant to build a "reloading beekee" from modern parts.

>> No.48284830

New one is technically accurate, but is lacking emotion. He does not believe that magazine is Johnny and he is certainly not talking to it. That much is obvious ;)
He needs a bit more of a secretive honch with his he lowered and the clip raised to his "ear."
Otherwise... great :D

>> No.48284943

I really like them anon, the bases look really neato too.

>> No.48284948

How does a skeleton move or stay together without connective tissue?

It's all magic, let him doot!

>> No.48285018

Thanks for the feedback Anon. The celestial weapons from Uld were actually pretty great!

I've got a few tips on how to improve the weapons, so hopefully I can make some progress in the morning and post a few pictures

>> No.48285038


>> No.48285085


Are you putting some water in the simple green to begin with?

>> No.48285127


Here is the first solo shot.

>> No.48285515

What went wrong?

>> No.48285562


Emperor save them

>> No.48285587

Repainted my blightbringer. Still wip

>> No.48285665


Part 2

>> No.48286033

Highlights on the scales could make it pop justa little more

>> No.48286263

I am working on some BFG cruisers and nids. Not sure who to paint the nid fleet so suggestions are welcome! Waiting for muh magnets to come in so i can progress assembly.

Also received my 42 infantry germans i ordered from blacktree design. Looking great, but will require some clean up.

minor touch ups? dude paint the purple 3 shades lighter. The current color looks like a basecoat! You will not regret turning up the purple color to level 10/10! Also highlight that plase coil.. and lens effect

Colors are too dark imo. Give everythng another layer. Also you primer is too thick

this is why people sometimes say airbrush it cheating. Looks great bro

>> No.48286487

Hey there /wip/, it's me, Anon.

Just got finished with a promo death guard for my upcoming army. I think i went a little overboard with the wear and tear, but considering i didn't want to spend all that much time on them, he's looking pretty good to me.

>> No.48286610


You were drunk.

>> No.48286778

Still some bits n pieces to do on this fella, but you can see the idea. Finally got that yellow right!

>> No.48286972

Anyone got a link/copy of this to share?

>> No.48286979

Not too sure about the red handle on his bayonet. On the one hand all the knives in my army have red handles, on the other I think it would look better black or brown.


>> No.48287002

he's looking really good, anon!

>> No.48287011


It's great you've got your Dangle technique down so well and the red handle breaks up the monotony of a purely metallic gun, looks good.

>> No.48287017


A great model and a great scheme, if it's that's a rush job it's even better, nice.

>> No.48287044

I really need to start painting my Orks and Admech but when I stripped and started repainting all my old DA stuff I swore I'd finish them before I did anything else.

But I now I just keep buying shit for all 3 armies and the piles of unopened boxes keep growing.

send help

>> No.48287063

do it silver like the rest of the knife

>> No.48287070

So stop doing that then.
And don't do your DA stuff all together. Break it up to whatever you like between your 3 armies.
Bulk. Painting.
Put everything away that you aren't currently building or painting.
Or don't.

>> No.48287210


Make one with "I fuck on the first date" too

>> No.48287220


Haha that little one

>waddle waddle waddle

>> No.48287228


>not having a bits garage

>> No.48287256

>finecast necron characters
this is why "Bring me to Life" was written
fuck these models, at least I'm getting paid to paint them but fuck me, obryon is textured like fucking sandpaper, and all of orikans pointy bits have corners and whatnot snapped off

>> No.48287348

About to strip some DA Vets I bought on eBay... Looks like someone sprayed primer over a older paint job...

>> No.48287363

dat meowth doe

>> No.48287394

Don't forget to clean mold lines after stripping. DA vets have some of the worst/ oldest molds I've seen in a while with some parts offset by about a milimeter.

>> No.48287402

Ask me about my Eldar failcast aspect warriors. I fucking dare you.

>> No.48287417


I like it this way

>> No.48287458


Those are features you entitled shitlords, paint them as battle damage, like the studio!

>> No.48287522


Have yourself checked for extra chromosomes.

>> No.48287539


So I tried to shade the black and white more, I used a 70/30 eshin vs black as the base for the black on this templar.

It's hard to tell in the pictures, and you have to look close but you can tell a difference.


What do you all think? Better or worse?

>> No.48287614

You the guy with the plague rider? If you're going to paint him like that, i'm looking forwar to it. Also, i'd like to see that backpack on your plasma dude, where did you get that?

Yeeesh, good luck with that man.

Dude, it looks great. Breaks up the metals around it and draws the eye to the finer details of the handle, not a bad job at all.

>> No.48287615

finishing up my first plague drone...

whats that? you mad Tau fag? can't summon daemons? Awww, i feel so bad for you....NOT!

>> No.48287627


>you mad Tau fag?

Who are you talking to?

>> No.48287633

He does that every time he posts.

>> No.48287701

>Those are features

Pic very related...

>> No.48287708

skeletons can't hear anything either, so it's not like any of them will realize their musician isn't making any sound

>> No.48287725

>What went wrong?

>> No.48287761

>What went wrong?

>> No.48287908

Far better, try making extreme highlights in some spots with a lighter colour

>> No.48288137

Hey guys.

I asked for help yesterday in the last thread. A kind anon gave me some advise which I tried out today.

On the right is the guy I did yesterday with white gesso. It rubs off by just touching it which I've shown on the shoulder. Even with the coat of todays mix over the top.

Left one is todays one. I added a drop of game color scrofulous brown to the white gesso. I painted it thicker as advised but it still doesn't cover well and the brush streaks are crazy. It doesn't rub off on my thumb but I can still scratch it off.

Suggestions? Should I be painting it even thicker?

>> No.48288143

Megaboss, wish I did some thing differently but just have to finish off

>> No.48288218

this is Sex.
Does you whole army look that nice?

>> No.48288271


Oh you, he's the first actually, the model looked incredible and I bought it in a trance.

I think I'll pick up some more for sure and try to paint them in a similar style. I'd love to paint that fat Orky dragon but I need some rank and file first I think...

>> No.48288306

What exactly are you trying to accomplish here?

>> No.48288360

Priming with gesso. I know it's a thing but it seems shitty. I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong.

>> No.48288419

I replied to you last thread,(the second one who did), instead of trying to achieve an even coat with gesso, it's easier to leave it like that and give the model an all over base with a colour to even it up, at least that's what i do with bright colours which don't cover well. Also how much did it dry? It still looks strangely glossy. Even if it can be scraped away it should hold fine when you paint it,but gesso usually needs varnishing since it's more frail than actual primers.

>> No.48288491

Ok so its ease of being scratched off is expected?
It's fully dry as far as I know. It sat for over an hour.
The dried stuff on my pallet is about as glossy. I'm completely new to gesso so I have no context for if this brand is even bad. Most of the reading I'm doing talks about liquitex brand, which could be only in the US.

>> No.48288552

Ok so I found a post on dakka dakka showing some before and after post of wet and dry gesso.
When they say you can paint it on thick they really mean it. I'll have another go and really slop it on and see how it goes.


>> No.48288565

I think an hour is half dry, let it sit some more, it might even stick better. In my experience, what you are getting is normal, but for what i know we might be just doing the same mistake. I also don't use liquitex, but have never tried it either, also liquitex is sold here in italy too, so it should be around europe as well. Don't worry about scratching, the finished product will be safe.

>> No.48288613

Oldhammer here

>> No.48288623


>> No.48288683

I.... have a home.... full of boxes of bits.

I REALLY need to start selling on e-bay.

>> No.48288701

How should I do the bases for my Tyranids? I've been going with contrasting colors so far (grey urban bases for Blood Angels, red desert bases for Necrons), and my nids are going to be purple and blue. I was thinking about doing "jungle" bases, but considering that this army wpuld have the most models in it, I don't want to burn myself out on that level of effort.


>> No.48288718

Maybe go for a red-wood, like mahogany? It would just allow you to add a bit more shading and highlighting to the handle?

>> No.48288752

Nice, I love the chainmail

>> No.48288761


I went with "Riot of Colours". Must remember to go back and paint the rest of the Slaaneshi stuff I have.

>> No.48288766

For a model that looks like you didn't thin your paints you did great

>> No.48288941

I'm in Australia but I looked liquitex up and they do sell it here in a chain store so I could pick some up.

I'll see how these guys go overnight now.

>> No.48288987

Well, Slaanesh used to be about rioting of colours.

I myself like to have everything in the same colour scheme.

The day we'll have a Slaanesh Daemonkin so never I'll have already everything nice and ready.

>> No.48289022

Shit, I never notice my Raptors were that different (they were a present, I didn't paint them).

Oh, well.

>> No.48289144

Oh I thinned them down but good. Had to multiple layers for the blue/yellow. Any idea why it still looks iffy? Is it just my technique? How do I get rid of the tiny white dots without doing a bazillion layers? Thanks bro

>> No.48289187

>mould lines

>> No.48289199


His paints almost looks too thin in places and the undercoat shines through.

/tg/ seriously needs to learn how to spot thick paint.

>> No.48289212

Tell me if it behaves any different

>> No.48289230


I think your paint style is more suited to a black undercoat. White undercoats are a bitch and your models easily end up looking like they were painted with watercolors.

I usually give all my white-sprayed models a brown or black wash to tone them down before painting but still keep them kind of light.
Helps prevent white dots shining through in crevices too.

>> No.48289232

Yeah people tend to call thick randomly whenever they see satin/gloss paint applied sloppily

>> No.48289244

Thankyou my friend, see >>48289199
Any advice for me? Obviously I still need to repair him, do the highlights, finish the spear etc. More layers or thicker paints, or maybe another wash to cover the white bits?

>> No.48289265

Huh, that makes a heck of a lot of sense actually. Thanks! I just bought a start collecting box, so I'll try this out with the Farseer. Can I do it with tanks too, or is the surface area too big and the wash lines will be obvious?

>> No.48289287

Also I tried black undercoat, but it looked frankly terrible. Space Pansies like bright colours, or so I've been told.

>> No.48289301

Forgot pic related, used a black primer for this guy

>> No.48289304

You were eight years old.

>> No.48289311


You seem to be a bit afraid of getting paint in the crevices, like between his fingers and where two different colored parts meet.

Try blocking in a color before starting the next one. Like the yellow for example, cover everything that's supposed to be yellow but don't worry about getting paint on his gun or gems, the paint covers well enough that even if you get some yellow in the wrong place you can cover it up later.

The staff and gun have a kind of watercolor effect, I think they could use another layer of grey.

Mostly though I think you need to invest in some washes, the yellow parts would look great with some Yellow or Sepia wash.

Tl;dr: more layers on the grey and give the yellow parts a wash

>> No.48289335


Then go with white but give the model a wash to shade the recesses.

You seem to have the paint thinning down, now you have to work on your shades and highlights, and since you're starting from a white base just painting every part and then shading with an appropriate wash seems to be the easiest route.

>> No.48289352

The more I look, the more I want to take it from you and dip it hard.

>> No.48289554

Muchos Danke, Dovahsebrom. Will grab some different washes, I only got Agrax at the mo. Have a pervy Vyper pilot as a token of my thanks.

>> No.48289797

Does anyone know where I can find some 3rd party musical instruments that I can put on guardsmen? I want to creat a little marching band for my army, just for looks that is.

>> No.48289840

you should prime your models.

>> No.48289847

I had a similar problem. Painted the eagle head silver to break up the solid block of red a bit.

>> No.48289942

Imagining him as a tiny, antique fencing servitor that used to duel other nobles' servitors in a time long gone. Without others to duel, he is modified to carry ammo and equipment for the Servo Knights. His old programming somewhat holds up, making quick work of critters and other small threats with his ancient fencing tricks, while his mindlocked brain continues to spuot profanities in an almost unintelligible Low Gothic dialect...
Counts as Digital Weapons.

>> No.48289944

what primer should i use? Does it cost a lot? if it does i would rather not use it if i can.

>> No.48289960

I have a couple of squads of Diaz Daemonettes somewhere.... They'll be less colourful. If I can ever be convinced to paint them.

>> No.48289974

im assembling a starter box and i accidental cut off more than i meant to, the joint of the arm that connects to the torso was cut abit to far down the shoulder that connect and is having trouble glueing together, should i maybe try pinning or glueing as best as i can then greenstuffing the cut area of the shoulder?

>> No.48290007


It barely costs anything and it's required unless you want to end up on the thin your paints wikipedia page

Essentially without primer you need to stick paint to paint to keep it in place

>> No.48290033


I've got like 30 of those waiting in line to be stripped, great models. Finding that lord is a pain in the arse though.

>> No.48290049

damn, i was joking, i thought you were too, read the first post you replied to, he is trying to prime the model.

>> No.48290067


With some sort of house wall primer

>> No.48290082

Never blended anything and wanted to do the gradual change to from red to light red to orange to white etc so i tried drybrushing (the spear and the halo thing)

What do you think?

>> No.48290085

man gesso priming is an affermed technique which a lot of competent painters use, he is not pulling it out ofhis ass. Google it.

>> No.48290101

learn from duncun-kun

>> No.48290124

heh, it's pretty bad, why don't you use actual blending techniques?

>> No.48290140

I have a lot of them too.

I prefer the new plastic ones to be honest, but fielding Diaz is about street cred.

>> No.48290148

I've almost finished Aenur. waiting for resin dungeon floor bases in the mail. Also need to colour match the boots, sightly different hues for some reason.

>> No.48290189

It's insane how outspoken morons are.

>> No.48290197

Guys, I'm tempted to rebase my necrons into square bases, Is this a bad idea?

>> No.48290213


Why would you do that.

>> No.48290218

If you want to play with them, yes.
If they are just eye candy, go for it.

>> No.48290222

i am afraid that blacklining is too strong, it needs to pass throught grey before getting to white,or you can use grey instead of black.(at least i am getting that impression)Because right now the contrast is so strong he looks like his legs and knife are sinking too much in the coat.

>> No.48290223


Ah beautiful, the Sword of Twilight, I remember getting mine on the cover of white Dwarf.

>> No.48290232


>> No.48290242

It would look cool? But yeah my shop guy seemed to be pretty lax on base shape

>> No.48290257

doesn't really sound like a good idea, say one day you want to play with an autist, or maybe one day you want to join a tournament. But yes square bases are so much better

>> No.48290280

Metallic paints are really hard to make a good coverage on large planes. I'd suggest what >>48282892 said. Otherwise it doesn't look bad.

>> No.48290284

So it's not that I'm wrong for liking it better, but the system is against me on it, fair enough, it would be a bit of a pain getting the bases now anyway with AoS discontinuing the square

>> No.48290294

Anyone else here stream their painting sessions? Would anyone be interested in watching for the next time I do?

>> No.48290295

That's one of the reasons I went with a polished stone look for my crons

>> No.48290338

What have you painted?

>> No.48290355


Thanks for the critique, I think you might be right.


Yup, me too. This is the same one I got back in 1999, maybe the third or fourth time I repainted him. I won't strip this version though.

>> No.48290361

if you upload them on youtube and are a decent painter and not crigny i would happily look at them. I would love to see a streaming too, but of course i can't guarantee i will be there.

>> No.48290364


That depends on many factors.

1. Do you talk as you do it?
2. Do you have ambient music as you do it?
3. Are you a good painter?
4. Do you have a good camera / streaming set up?
5. Hows your lighting?

>> No.48290414

i would love to see a streaming

>> No.48290447

Which Lord? The Terminator one, or the Slaanesh one on a Titty-snake?

>> No.48290454

>Those oversaturated contrasting colors
>Blue and red making for preschool primary color scheme
>"Metals" not matching anywhere

You really need to crack open a color theory PDF friend, before you even think about painting the rest of your army like this.

>> No.48290461

>mold lines everywhere

>> No.48290488

Oooh really soft, I like it!

>> No.48290495

Anon - you generally want to prime your models first. Most primers for plastic bond with the plastic (so yes, you need to use care when priming) and provide a surface with some tooth (a bit of roughness) for the paint to bond with. Your acrylic gesso and acrylic paint are forming a weak bond with the very smooth surface of the plastic and rubbing off way to easily.

>> No.48290507

Nice. What model is this? I'd love to modify it for my 40K Orks.

>> No.48290517

That's the new AoS orruks

>> No.48290525



Das da smartist find you said all day ya lousy Grot.

>> No.48290535

not him,but acrylic gesso was created to be a fucking primer stop it

>> No.48290570

Probably can't grab any for atleast a week and a half, but I'll post results here when I get it.

>> No.48290573


To make canvas into a flat surface, not really primer.

>> No.48290618


It's a great model, I bought the model in a trace.

But in case you didn't know he's a big guy.

>> No.48290623

just googled this for you. Primer does not mean "melts plastic", yes gesso was not created to prime palstic, but it's a primer nonetheless. Paint sticks to it perfectly and it can stick to minis well enough.(thought you NEED to varnish it if you mean to play with the mini)

>> No.48290704

How does it look if you just leave the armor plates off?

>> No.48290707

Yes, and I take requests
I wouldn't say I'm bad, but still fairly new
Yes, I have a DSLR streaming to OBS with a shitty webcam pointed at my pallet
Good, could be better. I have a strong white light under my magnifying glass and it can sometimes wash out lighter colors for the camera, I'm trying to come up with a solution to that.

On stream? 40k, hordes, a little infinity, and next up is guildball

I'll drop a twitch link next time I do it to see who's interested. Usually around midnight on weekends.

>> No.48290729


You can't, it's a clam shell. What you see is what you get.

>> No.48290734


>> No.48290736

any chance of some warzone miniatures?

>> No.48290903

>Triadic Color Scheme The triadic color scheme uses three colors equally spaced around the color wheel. This scheme is popular among artists because it offers strong visual contrast while retaining balance, and color richness. The triadic scheme is not as contrasting as the complementary scheme, but it looks more balanced and harmonious.
what the fuck is wrong with /wip/ today? Triadic scheme is litterally the most common scheme.(to be completely honest though your triadic colour scheme should be balanced with one colour being the most "important" and theother two taking much less space,your model is a bit conflicting, but it looks okay like that too)

>> No.48291080

Thanks for the link
I just might

>> No.48291288


How are you going to measure in a radius around your base?

>> No.48291300


Titty snake riding lord

>> No.48291322

as i told you there are some autists around. The difference between a round base and a square base is only 4 mm at worst, you just add a couple mms to the range depending on the direction you need to measure. Or if you want you can even just rotate the base.

>> No.48291392


Well fuck you too. If you want your own Coldsteel The Hedgehog army who is all different for the sake of being different then go ahead.

>> No.48291468

i don't want it, i a, one of those who answered him, not the oe who asked originally, you just proved my point with that answer.

>> No.48291470

Fucking lost it

>> No.48291659


Nobody cares you autistic bitch. Go be autistic somewhere else with your square bases in a round bases game.

>> No.48291764

>babby's first wargame
>worrying about a couple mm of base
Kill yourself

>> No.48291903


t. Coldsteel

>> No.48291978

How can you be so cool you ignore the rules? Please teach me

>> No.48292424

Who the fuck is cold steel?

>> No.48292452

You understand gesso is a primer?

>> No.48292525

Anyone got sites that sell models that would be good as count-as Medusa carriages and heavy mortars ?
Or anyone atleast what scale i have to look into to conduct a search myself ?

>> No.48292575


Jesus Christ anon...

>> No.48292597

The same way you do in any other game using square bases.

>> No.48292663

Anyone have a recipe for light green ork skin?

>> No.48292721

I recognize that guy.

I could get an umbra bolter from the mkiv tac box but I'm honestly tired of seeing Johnny everywhere.

>> No.48292783

Is it a standard GW fantasy model, or from a 3rd party maker (and if so who?) is what I'm asking.

>> No.48292820


I replied to your post with a link to the GW Store page.

Yes, it is a standard Games Workshop "fantasy" model.

>> No.48293443

Time for Golden Tau

>> No.48293589

that's actually swanky as fuck

>> No.48293694

Base Castellan Green
Layer Straken Green
Glaze Waywatcher Green
Wash Agrax Earthshade
Edge Straken Green

But I'm really lazy about doing the edge, and I prefer a subtler green for my orks.

>> No.48293839


I also turned an old Necromunda Wyrd telepath into a Gold order wizard. I'll just need to add some pointy slippers and he's done.

>> No.48293983

If I'm going to paint something mostly silver and red, white is the preferable primer color right?

>> No.48294075


Not necessarily, greyish metal is easier to paint over black I think.

>> No.48294235

Prime white, then paint the parts that will be silver black. Red can be painted on a black background, but it takes much more work, and metallics don't really go well on white.

>> No.48294371

First ogre out of my recent purchase is painted up. Was fun painting a dude who is quite larger then previous models. Took advice from another anon on doing some metal edge highlights, using moar washes, threw on some verdigris on his gut plate, base and tried hand at making his plates rusty.

Overall happy with outcome, anything you can spot on it that sound be helpful for my next batch of ogre bulls?

>> No.48294567

evidently a shit one. just use GW. even imperial primer sticks better to plastic then that crap.

>> No.48294574


I don't know that the verdigris adds a whole lot; maybe it's just the picture. That is a mean-lookin' ogre, though. A whole army of those? That'd be pretty cool, anon!

>> No.48294601

If he is planning on basing mephiston red, it covers pretty well on black. Might be the only actually good colour from GW.

>> No.48294632


>> No.48294651


Gold armor that doesn't look like shit, well done! Most people fuck it up but the red and the details, 8/10 paintjob. I feel like it could do with some more detailing but I recon you're working on that now.

Keep us updated!

>> No.48294654

Yeah, I'd base Mephiston Red.

Interesting, thanks.

I usually put metallics on over a brown base, since that seems to be the consensus here on how to do them

>> No.48294737

Unfortunately I don't have any warzone or any interest in it. I do have some flames of war that I never got around to.

Also, I do interlude drink mixing instruction

>> No.48294774

You got that wrong, brown for gold and black for silver. Also as i said mephiston red works on black, but white works better and personally looks better, take your choice if you feel like doing the extra work of basecoating black for silver.

>> No.48294779

Is that milliput or something else?

>> No.48294820

Heh, i love historicals, but i don't love 15mm. But i guess flames of war would be awesome too. (May i ask why don't you have interest in warzone if there is a particular reason).

>> No.48294903


I have a model done for every ground troop except the terminators (cataphractii).

Does anyone have a good IF terminator look that isn't 100% yellow?

I was thinking something like the picture attached.

>> No.48294941

That's definitely a good scheme, but i don't know if it qualifies as light
A normal base would be warboss green or whatever the new goblin green is called,to make it brighter you could highlight with moot green, which is a very bright saturated green. I also personally like basing moot green or some similar colour from another range since moot green covers really shittily and then highlight with a moot green+yellow(bad moonz yellow was the name?). Whenever if you want your green to be saturated you can add yellow to it for highlights, the effect is lovely. Pic related is made with goblin green base and goblin green+ yellow highlights. If you are interested i can dig up the complete recipe.

>> No.48294976

I am afraid you aren't getting much else for 30k, at least in lore there isn't much else i am afraid. (Or do you want made up schemes?)

>> No.48295198


ProCreate putty, I prefer it to GS.

>> No.48295216

I don't mind made up schemes at all, as long as they look good.

I suppose by *good* I mean a balance between cool looking, and loyal to fluff in a way. I.E. no flourescent purple on imperial fists.

>> No.48295291

rofl a horde of skeletons marching through the night playing xylophones on their ribs. Villagers thinking its a Calypso band plinky plonking through the night

>> No.48295399

>You understand gesso is a primer?

A primer *made for use on things that already have some surface texture* - like oil painting canvas or water color paper. Acrylic Gesso isn't made to be used on highly smooth surfaces like plastic.

>> No.48295452

That armor looks great but that pose looks silly because it looks like it's bored out of its mind

>> No.48295500

what brand are you using?
I use liquitex black gesso and I basically dilute it 2-1 with water and spluge it on the minis. Have to keep an eye to prevent possible buildup that will translate into horrible bubbles but otherwise it works for me (use it from 10mm to 32mm minis).

>> No.48295526

Anyone have experience with evergreen H beams? Im trying to figure out what measurement to get. Im making tank traps. I think the crossbar type will look more interesting on my basing than dragons teeth type ones.

>> No.48295596

you make a compelling case good man

>> No.48295618

If they're plastic like the H beams I have which may or may not be evergreen they're too far away for me to check then they'll be pretty easy to cut with either clippers or a dremel's cut off bit.

>> No.48295700

I just have zero exposure to it and a backlog of other miniatures games a mile long. Is it the same thing as dropzone commander?

>> No.48295756

Am I not supposed to use Krylon spray on resin? I'm painting up a Raging Hero mini for a friend and it's beading like crazy any time I thin my paints. Really pissing me off.

>> No.48295772

>Is it the same thing as dropzone commander?

No. Warzone was a game from before the Dark Age of Technology meant to compete with Warhammer 40,000. It died a quiet death (although there *was* that movie with Thomas Jane as Mitch Hunter...), but was recently revived by a Kickstarter attempting to breathe new life into the franchise. The related "Siege of the Citadel" boardgame is honestly more fun to play than Space Hulk.

>> No.48296103

i love how the daemon on the right has the look of "YOU KNOW WHERE IT'S GOING COMMISSAR."

>> No.48296177

Are you aware GW still sells it, right?

>> No.48296226

>Local Hobby supply shop is run by an elderly man, very nice fellow
>It's been there over twenty years
>It's probably the last proper modeling shop left in New York
>Owner's wife is sick, and in the hospital
>Recently he was closed for almost four weeks

>> No.48296271

Buy the shop.

>> No.48296277

hard to remove mold lines on this model... looks worse on camera, hehe

>> No.48296298

Yeah let me just pull the money out of my ass.
As nice as the shop is I'm not sure how he's stayed in buisness unless he owns the whole building, which might be the case.

>> No.48296475

Anyway, please try saying in advance when you will be streaming and see you soon.(try looking into it, it's good rules wise and has great models too)

>> No.48296481

I'm assuming this is upstate New York. A specialist shop in NYC wouldn't have any problem finding customers no mater how niche.

>> No.48296887

I'm picking up some Skitarii, and I'm considering color schemes. I like the idea of hardwood rifles for them, but I don't think it'll mesh well with the electric blue cloaks I'm planning for them. Does anyone have any idea of good colors to really work and pop with electric blue?

>> No.48296975

Did a quick google for the most similar models there are to your description I could think of - according to this example it looks pretty great with that bright copper as a secondary colour.

>> No.48297036

that warp talon is exquisite.

>> No.48297056


Honestly, hardwood doesn't have to be a dark brown. It comes in tans which would work pretty well with electric blue. Think something a little darker and richer than sandalwood.

>> No.48297057

stetching colour theory a bit, you could get a disjointed complementary colour scheme, so blue being the main colour with the twwo colours "around" its complementary, red(in this case a reddish brown) and yellow(gold).
It should work in my opinion.

>> No.48297296

Man it feels good to actually start up a project and actually get somewhere. Still need to do the glass and lights, possibly some dirt or battle damages and some cleanup. Maybe some more layers on the luggage.

Thought about adding more layers to the hull, but I kinda like it as it is, with just zandric dust and messy agrax earthshade line wash.

Gonna start putting together the passengers tomorrow and probably paint them.

>> No.48297313


>> No.48297330


>> No.48297342

Inside also needs more work, probably a wash and a lighter layer to get that off white common to tank internals.

>> No.48297351

who's it for?

>> No.48297479

Gonna slap together a bunch of SoB from the eisenkern valks and paint their armour similar to the tank and make their loincloth tabard things dirty whites, and likely add some simple imperial symbol in a bright colour. Crusaders meets Desert Storm. They'll be accompanied by respawning Tempestus Scions in a MRAP Taurox, styled in similar colours and with bags and shit all over.

>> No.48297692

Base waaagh! Flesh
Layer warboss green all over (layers until solid color)
Recess shade with biel-tan green
Layer mot green on the raised areas
Layer 50/50 moot green/yriel yellow more sparingly on the even more raised areas
Edge highlight with yriel yellow
Glaze waywatcher green

It's how I do my orcs/orks/gobbos. Might get too bright for your liking though

>> No.48297912

Like so https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p5udK-R094

>> No.48297919

Color theory is not as simple as finding a color harmony and then just using the first blue, red and yellow paints you can get your hands on. You have to use paints with appropriate lightness, saturation and hue to match each other.

Painting in 3 dimensions also makes things more complicated: your yellow highlights might match your red gems, but your yellow shading might not, and you can't forgo either without making your model look flat.

>> No.48297922

Hey /tg/

It has been 4 months since I started painting these tempestus scions and I still can't bring myself to finish the arms. I don't get it. I like painting warhammer models, but these models are so over-detailed and baroque that they sucked the will to paint right out of me.

Does this happen to other people? Do other people get the blues after painting too many models in a short stretch?

>> No.48297979

Is that Carmine in the middle?

>> No.48298017

you are right, but i guess the model was decent colour theory wise, deifnitely not worthy of that tantrum.

>> No.48298018

>It's probably the last proper modeling shop left in New York
What? I can name 3 different "proper" modeling shops (airfix, model trains, absurd amounts of tools and paints etc.) in Stockholm, with a population of only 1 million. You're probably not looking hard enough.

>> No.48298020


Maybe... just *maybe* my boys can stop 'em from gettin' the book. Yeah ... and maybe I'm a Chinese jet pilot!

>> No.48298051

not him, but what do you mean with proper modelling?

>> No.48298064

Read the parenthesis. Airfix, model trains, absurd amounts of tools and paints etc.

>> No.48298212

While the conversion is rad it makes me sad to see something de-necromunda-d.

>> No.48298294

Gears of War reference?

>> No.48298309

Mont marte. Speaking to some art friends it sounds like that is a garbage brand. Going to grab some liquitex in two weeks when I can mske it to the city.
Till then I'll have the drudgery of using vallejo bottle primer.

>> No.48299356

Just sharing a shitty picture of the hell I am returning too.

Took a break to bring some of my other units up to a table top standard as these fliers are killing me.

>> No.48299453

I got excited for a second there and thought you had a model M in the background. Then I realised it wasn't a model M and is in fact ISO layout to boot.

Go fuck yourself.

>> No.48299534

I miss building terrain so today I started on a couple of very small and light projects. here are 2 small fantasy barricades. almost finished

>> No.48299544

Take a break, do other shit, read a book, shitpost on /tg/, that sort of thing.
I have a backlog of 26 Mark IV Marines, I'm only starting to do them again after making two minis for my non-gaming friends. Assembling a few minis with new stuff you haven't painted before and in a new scheme is a fresh change.

>> No.48299953

Should I convert 20 goblins into gretchin or 10 boarboys into... 40k boarboys? Boars with machines gun them? Not actually sure but yeah. This is important.
Not sure what to do first really, both seem hype

>> No.48300125

I don't know what you like, do what you want.

>> No.48300214

RIP carmine :'(

>> No.48300220

Chevrons and some armor panels could use some work, but good progress on dreadnought #9

>> No.48300236

And Librarian #4 came out well

>> No.48300256

An this guy's blade came out very well.

>> No.48300350

>love fluff and look of wraith constructs
>iyanden is designated wraith craftworld
>like their fluff just fine, cool with nids as designated enemies
>their craftworld logo is kinda cool also
>but their color scheme is ugly as sin

Why is life suffering

>> No.48300449

Make your own color scheme
I have a bitching red/black/pearlescent(ish)/bone eldar scheme that looks nice

>> No.48300489

I'm just lamenting that a perfectly good, fluffy canon faction has such a garbage color scheme.

For a while I wanted to make a "ghost in the shell" color scheme as a little joke, but then I realized that the best way to do it just made it look like Ulthwe's color scheme.

>> No.48300505

Yes.... cast in second-hand bubble-gum.

>> No.48300527

How would you pull that off? Paint everyone like the Major?

>> No.48300595

Basically that was the idea. The scheme was something like a dark blue-grey (her coat), a lilac color (her leotard), a grey-purple (her hair) and highlights of red (her eyes).

With grey bodies, lilac heads, purple decorations and red spirit stones, they just looked too much like Ulthwe to really bother.

>> No.48300635

It would probably go over people's heads anyhow.
Wasn't there different Iyanden schemes in their supplement codex? I recall wraiths of different houses upsetting the usual color scheme.

>> No.48300864

>Im trying to figure out what measurement to get
1:50 usuallly looks about right next to heroic 28mm

Did you use gloss? You can try adding a coat of matt varnish and see if that helps with the painting.

>> No.48300879

Yeah. I had another idea for a color scheme themed after Youmu, but that ran into similar problems with Biel-Tan.

Different houses have different patterns and symbols, but the colors stay the same.

>> No.48301437

The model and the painting itself is great, there's no questionning that.

One thing I'm dubious about is the stark green and yellow on the plasma gun. I know it's a detail but it feels like it breaks the harmony of the model. Which is a shame, since it's so nicely painted and converted.

>> No.48301496

>That warp talon
>High five bruv!

But what the hell happened to your noise marine? Primer fucked up?

>> No.48302184


>> No.48302396

Gesso scrub here.
They've been drying for about 20 hours now and it's barely shrunk at all pretty much looks like I painted normal acrylic thickly. Going to conclude this brand is not good.

Fantasticly though it stopped raining and was actually sunny today for the first time in weeks so I got a bit of spraying done. That should tide me over until I can pick up a bottle of the gesso mentioned in most of the forum posts.

>> No.48302522

Yeah, no.
It's in metal. It has always been in metal.
There was never a Resin version.

>> No.48302638

Thanks guys, really means a lot. I also got the lot of nurgle bikes in storage now, i'll finish them up once the plague marines are done.

The back pack is from Maxmini, i think. Here's a 360° for you.

Thanks again, and truth to be said, i've originally thought about giving him blue plasma, but alltogether there would've been just too many colours all over the squad. These are super soldier zombies after all, not rainbow warriors.

>> No.48302651

Also put base layers on the rest of the squad, i'll finish them tomorrow morning.

>> No.48302850

Yes and no.

Basically I bought a Purple Primer, to shorten time.
I had to put more primer, since it is the purple of the armor.

It makes for this rough surface, which doesn't look good in photo, but in the grand scheme of thing is a thing i really like.
Paint adhere wonderfully, and they a little bit extra matt and it's mostly unnoticeable (they look a little more rough and grungy, which i really like)

But yes, in photo up close looks really bad.

>> No.48302870

I've always wanted to know: how do skeletons play wind instruments without lungs?

>> No.48302933

Trying to build a cheap Lizardmen army and I got a buttfuckton of these lil guys, but they ALL look the same. Any ideas how I could jazz them up and give them some variety?

>> No.48303057

Maybe put masks on some of them?

>> No.48303076

how would I do that? With green stuff? I'm new to modding miniatures (and minis in general)

>> No.48303113

If you're new mass sculpting might be a bit much to begin with but good to start practicing.

Try getting bits from empire players. There are tons of spare heads with massive feathers. Those could be added.

>> No.48303116

Different colors.

>> No.48303124

Maybe some scales in green stuff?
They are super-easy to do (just dots of green stuff), you just give them in different places with different patterns.

Add a few trophies and bits, and you are done.

>> No.48303136

Tyrants legion mantis warriors wip

>> No.48303429

just finished...

ITT: Mad Tau Fags

>> No.48303450

Headswaps would be easy and effective, but finding appropriate heads will be tough.

Messing with the crest looks doable, and would change the look a lot. Shave it down to nothing to make some bareheads/females. Shaving it down and sculpting an erect crest out of putty would be a little harder, but not outside the realm of possibility.

>> No.48303481

Just finished the dude this morning, tried a drybrushing to tone down the primaries a bit. Considering I'm a newbie, I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for the advice!

>> No.48303534

I'll give it a go, I want to make an army full of colour so the lighter the better

>> No.48303737


That's not even the same range

>> No.48303752


Which three chapters are these? They look colorful

>> No.48303786


You should hit them with a thin coat of gloss followed by 2 coats of matte varnish anyway, so they don't scratch so easily

>> No.48303858


>> No.48303875

where did you get that sonic weaponry?

>> No.48303925

Hired a green stuff sculptor.
Payed 10€.

>> No.48303950


>> No.48303955

I have that motherfucker on the top left.
The snake sorcerer.

That's it, I'm gonna paint it today.

>> No.48304027


Nice! Consider recasting it, it's really fukken rare. Even finding pictures of it is hard. It's the Juan Diaz masque iirc

>> No.48304100

Not, it's the Jes Goodwin Champion of Slaanesh.

He was the guy behind most of the iconic pieces of that era.

>> No.48304127

Both sides are now 'ard. Tracks next!

>> No.48304234

Thanks Anon, yeah it's still got a lot of washing & edge highlighting that needs doing, so far it's pretty much the right side of the photo is done, aside from the arms and some of the edge highlighting. It turns out that the new Skullcrusher Brass after an earthshade wash makes it look like the traditional colour scheme.

Here's some fire warriors I'm working on at the moment too.

>> No.48304235


No dakka on the sides?

>> No.48304255


>> No.48304343

I am putting together a vindicator for my 30k fists, do you recommend priming and painting the parts separately or assembled?

For instance I am at the point of putting the treads on, should I prime and paint first? Will they still fit?

>> No.48304362


Assemble it as far as you can without obscuring parts. If you feel "Hey, this is going to be hard to reach if I glue it on", leave it off.

>> No.48304596

So what's the theme song for your end of the campaign

>> No.48304638


>> No.48304652

I did my (40k) Vindicators in 3 parts

siege shield
tank including cannon and threads
that loading crane on the back

>> No.48304699

I am thinking I will prime (taping over the connective parts so they will still fit) and paint in the following parts.

I'd like to magnetize the dozer blade and accessories, I am considering what my plan for doing that will be before priming

>> No.48304709

I should mention I want the back ramp to be able to deploy, and the inside to be painted. Even though it will not be used as a transport.

>> No.48304761

Oop, posted in wrong thread

>> No.48304765

The problem is, you'll never be able to fill or dryweld the gaps if you prime like this.

>> No.48304799

Can you explain those terms to me?

Do you think I'll be able to paint the inside if I glue any more? I don't have an air brush

>> No.48304872

The real question is why is that Dread standing in a pile of oregano?

>> No.48304885

I might be able to manage if I put everything but the roof on

>> No.48304896

I'm in dire need of your help /wipg/. How can I strip Citadel shade washes from a model? I have an absolutely disastrous Agrax earthshade spill to clean up. Hot water seems to do a good enough job as the wash seems to basically have formed a peelable skin, but that only works on the exposed areas. Help!

>> No.48304903

>I am thinking I will prime (taping over the connective parts so they will still fit) and paint in the following parts.

Try masking fluid. Paint it on where you don't want any primer / paint, wait for it to dry. Then you can prime / paint to your hearts content and simply peel off Masking fluid later and have perfectly clean surfaces for gluing. Just don't use a good paint brush. (Cheap-ass Testors enamel model paint brushes work fine - and you can use the enamel paint solvent to clean the masking fluid out later. Soak the brush in a small pool of it to dissolve the rubber.)

>> No.48304906


Rubbing alcohol should clear that right off. Your paints too if you let it soak.

>> No.48304919

>Can you explain those terms to me?

The other Anon is saying that if the model doesn't fit together perfectly you'll have an issue and trying to fill the gaps after you've primed the mini (without priming the exterior again) will lead to noticeable flaws in the final paint job.

>> No.48304921

You gently scrape along a glued seam with you hobby knife until it vanishes. Like you'd do on the mudguards (?) of SM bikes so it looks like one piece.

>painting the inside
As long as you don't glue in the extra armor and with a bit of dexterity it should be no problem to paint the inside good enough.
Consider painting the door/ console and hard to reach interior parts before assembling the rest and simply masking it off.

>> No.48304974

I already derped and glued on the extra armor, I didnt realize that it was additional poibts, oh well.

I think I am confident enough to paint as it is here (see pic).

Anyone have a good tip on how to magnetize or otherwise modify it so that the front cannon can move up and down?

>> No.48304980

Thanks anon. Out of interest, methylated spirit okay?

>> No.48305003

Dude, the assembly for the front cannon is literally made for moving up and down.

>> No.48305021


If it is at least 70% alcohol it should work. Higher concentrations are more powerful but they can also damage the paint during prolonged contact.

>> No.48305054

What paints were used for red?

>> No.48305073

I see that it can move up and down, but does something lock it in place? I haven't glued much together as I don't want to make a mistake

>> No.48305126

morning /wip/

we have a beautiful hobby. never let anyone take it away from you

>> No.48305136

why would anyone bother about a silent hobby you do mostly alone at home?

>> No.48305151

I would make them look different via painting and not with sculpting. Honestly I'd love to have like 40 of those dudes and just go at them with my airbrush and then some drybrushing and washing. I bet they'd look amazing in a huge group, even painted to tabletop standard.

>> No.48305161

You can make an underconstruction with bits of sprue and magnets. just put one magnet on the backside of the cannon and other magnets where you want it lock in place.

I usually do that with Predator tanks and the like.

>> No.48305177

Okay thanks, that is what I was wondering. You used the word "sprue", and the video I am looking at for a guide for magnetization ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu_t_tyUS6w ) says that also.

I assumed it was just leftover plastic from the mold sheet, is it something else?

>> No.48305184

i must be painting too loudly then

>> No.48305188

The silence offends slaanesh.

>> No.48305221

Yes, we call that sprue.

Here, I made a picture for you. It's from a Predator I recently stripped. It's a bit shit because the turret was already glued shut.

>> No.48305222

Seriously, what could people bring as an argument against sitting at home?
"Go out and meet some girls" maybe, but i have a gf, so thats not valid any longer. Else?

>> No.48305228

Excellent, thank you that is extremely helpful

>> No.48305257

i didnt have anything in mind i just was being hypothetical. its important for me to keep up with the hobby to destress and not let too many other obligations or invitations get in the way.

>> No.48305494

The time of the photo I had yet to finish the base, since I run out of the stuff I use.

That is just the first hand of grass with no decoration, no protective and ruined from a dozen transport to the LGS.

Not that my bases are that big of a thing anyway.

>> No.48305571

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