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[ERROR] No.45986428 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Bitchin' Sweet Rides Edition
Last thread >>45948385

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>> No.45986523

Super glue or plastic solvent, which one do you prefer?

>> No.45986624

Plastic cement for plastic on plastic, super glue for everything else. It's that simple.

>> No.45986652


Care and share.

>> No.45986671

Shit, I forgot that was in the last thread. Thanks for adding it, anon.

>> No.45986706

>Thanks for adding it, anon.

I just want more of this stuff, wasnt working in the last thread though


>> No.45986742

Starting my Thousand Sons Predator

>> No.45986760

Got nothing new to post, so here are my fancy marines again, in the progress of being base layered. All opinions are welcome, as usual.

>> No.45986761

>those turret magnets

Im glad Im not the only one, feels like shit but it works.

>> No.45986771


>> No.45986819

So I got two Necron HQs yesterday to lead my army and both were a fair bit warped and had more flash between them than the entirety of the models I assembled already.

A player at my LGS told me to dip the bits in hot water and straighten them out by hand.
It worked for the most part but the arms don't really meet the elbow joins well.

For Obyrn, the one on the right, his weapon flexs a bit to match up with the socket.

Orikan, the one on the left is even more of a problem because he is almost hugging his staff and the slots are much more off.

Do I need to rebend the arms attached at the weapon of the bicep on the actual model.

I know the picture is absolute shit and I apologize but it is all my shit camera can do.

>> No.45986851


What purple are you using?
It looks just a bit lighter than my Naggroth Night and would probably be good for my edge highlights.

>> No.45986916

>my picture is the OP

Now I really have to do it.

I'll buy a separate prince because working with metal is a bitch, but this is happening.

>> No.45986949

It's Vallejo's Hexen Lichen. It's clearly a different tone then Naggaroth Night, can't tell if it's brighter though, might just be the lighting. I usually use Vallejo's Royal Purple for highlights on Hexen Lichen, it's really close to the latter an only a tad brighter. Might give that a shot.

>> No.45987021

Do the two bionic legs that come in the thunderwolf kit only fit the bodies they share a sprue with? So I can't buy extra ones to have them all with bionic front limbs (without a bunch of modifications)?

>> No.45987025

Someone asked how I did this. Metal is layered up to runefang steel, second is two layers of guilliman blue, third is waywatcher green layer, and fourth is one final layer of guilliman blue and then details. Takes a while but pretty easy.

>> No.45987029

Great, thanks!

Never used Vallejo. Currently sitting on ~30-40 tubs of Citadel paint.

>> No.45987053

Wow that is great. I am trying to make metalic blue Necrons.

>> No.45987110

I'm going to try this out and see if I can't start an Alpha Legion army, this is ace. How on Earth do you plan to do vehicles though?

>> No.45987111

And that's saved, great look for Alpha Legion

>> No.45987209

Trial and error until it comes out right. I have no vehicles to paint at the moment but when I get one and get around to painting it I'll post the process.

>> No.45987256

I've got an Orlock ganger who just got his hand on a Needle Pistol. I'm using a DE Stinger Pistol to represent it on tabletop, because real needle pistols are a pain to find.

Either way, was thinking of sculpting a hat for him like a stetson or slouch hat with Green Stuff. Anybody has any experience with that?

>> No.45987275

>How on Earth do you plan to do vehicles though?
This is what is worrying me for my Necrons metallic blue scheme. The Flat surfaces of the Ghost/Doom Arks arent going to come out as well. I was thinking about thinning a metalic with the blue glaze. Going to try it on a spur when it is nice enough out to prime.

>> No.45987290

you would have been better off posting whatever kind of hat you are talking about in the pic.

>> No.45987297

It's gonna be great!

>> No.45987337

Slouch on the left, Stetson on the right.

>> No.45987349


>> No.45987352

Superglue, I don't like that plastic cement melts the plastic.

>> No.45987354

Pick up a single marine or eldar bike

Eldar may actually be easier to modify with the throne bits and you get to skim. It is a smaller model so you can hide it under a ton of daemon good stuff while having a solid structure underneath.

Either would give you a core to build off of

>> No.45987393

Your first mistake was buying Finecast.

You're just going to have to keep rebending the resin until you get what you want, for what it's worth, Orikan is supposed to be hugging his staff pretty closely so don't worry about that.

>> No.45987420

>plastic cement melts the plastic.
This. My entire DA army is put together with GW Plastic Cement whatever and now that I am getting a bit more better at modeling/understanding I want to move around shoulderpads and magnetize stuff and it has been a bit of a pain. The shouderpads I remove take some of the shoulder with them and I had to try and scrape/file the stuff off to sit smoothly on a different shoulder. Then the shoulder is all bumpy and uneven and a new shoulderpad doesn't sit perfectly.

Apparently all you have to do with superglue is freeze the shit and it snaps off.

>> No.45987520

>open a box of CSM
>throw all parts together to get absolute random results
>put the assembled ones away
>still get 2 pair of almost identical looking and posing CSM

I hate myself

>> No.45987566

>freeze the shit and it snaps off.
Aye, I've done this countless times with pre-owned kits from Ebay. Slap them in a freezer, let sit for some hours, take out, snap apart. Sometimes, you're unlucky and break off a leg, neck or something, but it mostly works fine. Pry apart seams between arms and shoulder or waist with a scalpel.

>> No.45987628

Started painting the inside of my chimera before finishing gluing things together
I think I've improved since my last vehicle?

>> No.45987715

Don't be too neat. Modern military vehicles normally have a uniform look on the inside, and most stuff gets coated in anti rust paint.

So just take a big drybrush, brush the whole interior including the floor, and touch it up with a few smudges (especially the floor, shit gets carried in by troops embarking).
Also give it a thorough wash, let it run down the walls for a few streaks, dab off excess and tone down the floor a bit.

>> No.45987781

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, also plan on having it pretty neat on the outside when I finish initially and gradually put damage on as I play more games

>> No.45987797

This is close enough.


>> No.45987864


Good luck doing that for a lot of vehicles and keeping it up...

By the way, check out http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n98/Hishambas/00BMP2Interior_zps866c2957.jpg

It's a good idea to use a bright interior paint, so shit doesn't get too dark with a tiny light source inside.

>> No.45988004

Thanks, I'll post progress after the exams.

>> No.45988169

Has anyone here used salt to achieve a rusted paint effect?

I remember reading a No Quarter that included a tutorial about base coating the metal parts orange, putting some salt over it, painting over the salt, and then running the model under cold water and removing the salt with a tooth brush to reveal the orange rust. I believe it was used on the studio Kraken.

I was considering trying this on some Nurgle models but dabbing the rust on with a bit of sponge sounds safer. Just curious if anyone has had success.

>> No.45988307

usually not worth the time on guys smaller than terminator size, I find

Salt masking/weathering is pretty well documented online though, so you'll have plenty of well done examples and tutorials to draw from.

>> No.45988332

In order to pull of the salt effect, everywhere I've read recommends having an airbrush and you apply a layer of non-aerosol hairspray before adding the salt, giving the model a thin varnish layer.

>> No.45988344


>> No.45988495

Any highlighting before or after the process? Or is the shine enough?

>> No.45988591

Plastic. I just prefer how it operates. I've had so many superglued pieces break because the superglue is quite hard and doesn't have any give in it. All the plastic glued pieces I've broken have been because I just didn't glue them well enough.

>Then the shoulder is all bumpy and uneven and a new shoulderpad doesn't sit perfectly.

Except that as the plastic glue melts the contact areas, the uneven surface becomes less uneven.

>> No.45988783

I did promise to show my method about a week ago, so here it is.

>> No.45988827

and the dreadnought. Coverage on my blue's been a bit janky lately, so he's still got a way to go, despite almost being finished. Putting him aside for now to work on tacs for a change of pace.

>> No.45988860

Tacky, oldschool, 90s.

I love it.

>> No.45988913

Sigmarine assault termies

>> No.45988940

the legs look really out of place

>> No.45988949

legs are to thin compared to the body

>> No.45988970

Not that anon, but it's not the legs, it's the head.
With a head a tiny bit smaller this would look dope.

>> No.45988985

progress! worked on the grill and laid down the first hazard stripes

>> No.45988994

In the grim darkness of the far future there is no leg day.

>> No.45989008

I am playing with toy soldiers, after all.

It's hard having a backlog with all these nice deathwatch miniatures taunting me from their sprues.

>> No.45989148

>L O V I N G I T


>> No.45989364

2nd Ed Never Dies / 10

>> No.45989411

Not bad, I like it.
Little question, are those legs bigger than the standard Stormcasts ones?

>> No.45989458

Nah, flairs just stopped being in fashion

Seriously though, they're slightly thinner in the shins, thicker in the thighs and longer overall so it makes them look really skinny

>> No.45989483

I'm actually with this guy, I think that Sigma-Termies should probably go bare headed.

>> No.45989577

fuckin sik

>> No.45989586


>> No.45989604

legs look fine, it's sick

>> No.45989614

Green daemon of jealousy for scale.

>> No.45989639


>> No.45989672

>want to start painting it since players might encounter purple worm soon
>want to start out by spraying it black
>local temp is below zero

>> No.45989742

Dude is green because he just knows he can't compete with dat girth.

>> No.45989784

Or because he knows that he can't get a skull out of that fucker.

>> No.45989819


This is brilliant and I love you. Been frozen with indecision on how to do my new Alphas for a month. This is perfect.

>> No.45989834

Im pretty sure that started as some weird sex toy project.

>> No.45989836

They're the legs from the paladin box

Bare head vs helmet

>> No.45989841


>> No.45989873

It looks... better.
Still a bit weird but Im sure you can pull that off

>> No.45989878

Holy shit, our consciences were twin linked there for a while, anon.

>> No.45989887

Bare head looks badass.

>> No.45989891

Yeah I know what legs they are, but since I never had paladins, I don't know if these are bigger than the Liberators ones.

>> No.45989901

No helmet is a strong look on these guys, esp as they're BAs.
I'd go with that, but I ain't you.

>> No.45989947

You're almost right. I think roughly half its weight is nothing but hot glue.

Literal hot glue, though.

>> No.45990027

Oglaf does that to people.

>> No.45990045 [SPOILER] 

Here's one I prepared earlier

About the same size, just more plating

>> No.45990069

okay so i managed to put some wash on and put the fancy little thing on the back to make it a bit less bland i guess
hope i didnt ruin it
also i really need to take better pictures

>> No.45990097

Is this supposed to be tyranid like or just a giant worm?
which reminds me of this jedi academy mission

Ah now I know whats weird, the legs are missing purity seals and stuff, they are to bland compared to the torso.

>> No.45990105

Bare head looks fine, but how about slightly smaller helmet?

>> No.45990120

In the grim darkness of far future, even the super soldiers skip leg day.

>> No.45990128

thnx anons!

i like that, keep going anon

>> No.45990142

Warhammer Troll, first bigger model that I have painted.

>> No.45990151

For anyone else who wants to make something similar, this guide is really good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzLSXMgzWpk

Reversed the scales though. The ones in the video would be extremely painful for such a big guy moving through the earth.

>Is this supposed to be tyranid like or just a giant worm?
Only noticed that it was tyranid-esque after I attached the carapace, actually. But hey, I already established that tarrasques look vaguely like tyranids in my campaign, so why not purple worms as well?

>> No.45990179

Sweet. Completely different from what I did with my steam dorfs, but it's REALLY great so far.

>> No.45990188

I think you might be right about the lack of ornamentation on the legs, I'll raid the bits box and report back

>> No.45990251

holy shit from this thumbnail >>45986771 I thought thats only the leg of the dwarf what the fuck

>> No.45990284

Maybe put some more gold on the legs?
You have rims already sculpted, why not take advantage of it?

>> No.45990343

Wow my headless termis and DW knights are finally getting a helm.

>> No.45990445

I tried that initially, but they looked to khornate to me

>> No.45990450

Haven't seen your stuff before and a rough week is a bit far too look for it in the archive. Is the method base, wash, layer 1, layer 2, wash? I really like it and would like to give it a shot.

>> No.45990582

Yeah, those steam armour dorfs have differently long legs on their minis. As far as I can tell the characters like sergeants or football team leaders are supposed to tower over the other dorfs. The normal steam dorfs are really big already, pretty close to standard space marine height, if I remember right. And since I use them as marines in terminator armour, it works good for me.

>> No.45990587

Nice to see there are others who appreciate Scibor's dorfs

>> No.45990686


base, wash, highlight 1 (base+white mix), highlight 2 (watered down white), blend/clean up highlignts with base

I made up a couple similar guides for the paint threads back in 2012

>> No.45990754

I love 'em. My only problem is that some of them miss the sideburns and/or mustaches in their beards, but that's nothing that green stuff can't fix.

>> No.45990868

Did you shave off part of the torso? I'm trying to do similar and it looks off.

>> No.45991009

2012 is a bit before my time here.
I do recognise that terminator though, thanks for clearing that up.

>> No.45991218

no problemo

Reason why I use straight paint at the last step instead of a wash is because you have more control over where it goes and how much pigment you're using.

>> No.45991391

so i painted this now because i realized i would have to put those little gun things in and painting it afterwards i would have to repaint the guns afterwards
hope that it didnt come out that bad, i'll post what it looks like together after i do that in a bit

>> No.45991670

If I can see paint strokes on flat surfaces, I'm guessing I have to thin my paints?

>> No.45991756


>> No.45991808

Put some purity seals on the legs, GK style helmet and a vanilla termie for scale

Nah, I use normal termie torsos and cut down the waist on the paladin legs to fit

>> No.45991884

Helmet is still to tall.
The eye sockets only work for the dog like standard terminator snout helmet, if you cut the snout you must readjust the chin, or the eyes seem to be at the forehead.

>> No.45991924

first raider finished. ran out of dullcote though

>> No.45992099

What skin-color would you give a Black Legion CSM? Normal skin color or pale?
Found this FW head in my bitz box and wanted to make a CSM similiar to the DV box.

Yeah, the purity seal 's fine, preferred the helmetless version, though.

>> No.45992214

Good job on the sail anon. I think a layer of a thinned down purple glaze would really bring it together.

>> No.45992337

Paler skin is a good extreme contrast for black legion.

>> No.45992373

You're doing gods work anon, thank you.

>> No.45992406

looks pretty sick, always enjoyed the DE aesthetic and glass canon is my second favorite concept after fast and dangerous in your face reckless close combat brutes, you pull how I imagine DE to be perfectly

>> No.45992431

Would serve in death with/10

>> No.45992460

Nice collection, and I love the guy hanging off the side.

Whatcha drinkin'?

>> No.45992538

Comparison between my chimera and my old-ish basilisk
I feel like I've made a lot of improvement since then

>> No.45992588


He's doing the kan kan.

>> No.45992742

I like it, that termie looks so tiny in comparison.

>> No.45992770

Dude adding things etc will not help, the body parts are different scales, that's why the ankle to knee length is monumental in comparison.

It was a cool idea but it's time to stop

>> No.45992787

>DE player
>eraser in a jar
>brown liquor on table
>dice cube mingling with hobby supplies

What the hell is going on over there anon?

>slow progress on GUO.

>> No.45992806

It looks great, I really want to see them painted.

>> No.45992979

You still use a shitton of glue.

Any maybe you should assemble the model a bit more and then prime it.

And why are the lasguns aiming into the sky?
Dedicated AA?

>> No.45993004

i put them straight up so i can put the treads on later, i can still mess around where they point

>> No.45993132

Thanks! definitely not totally thrilled with the sail, hope to take the lessons on to the next one.


"JD Revelry" some batch bourbon that was on sale at the packie. Tasty enough.

Really liking the "watermelon" look on that guo

>> No.45993191

thank You anon!

>> No.45993342

It's too late to stop now, but thank you for your concern

>> No.45993348


>> No.45993398

nah, just decided to make the inside of my first chimera look nice

>> No.45993450

Is it possible to respray an already painted model or will it swallow all the detail?

>> No.45993474

strip first, but follow a tutorial so you don't use something that eats whatever your mini is made of.

>> No.45993548


>> No.45993622

>Urban dictionary search Packie
>Pleasant surprise when it's a totally different slang term to the one I thought you were using

>> No.45993732

Maybe I'll try that, thanks

>> No.45993744

Anyone know a good tutorial on doing space ship deck bases? I want to rebase my Iron Warriors and Imperial Fists as fighting during the battle of Phall.

>> No.45994049


Are you looking for something more exciting than just diamondplate plasticard?

>> No.45994071

If you're in the U.S. - try 'CSC' (Castrol Super Clean) - found in the automotive section in many stores. It's used to degrease engine parts, but does a fine job of stripping paint off of metal, plastic, and resin minis without damaging the minis.

>> No.45994101

Anyone have suggestions for ships that would fit, wrecked, on a table?

Was discussing with my friend a fun one shot game mode. Based off of the last episode of S1 of the OLD Clone Wars cartoon. Surrounded on all sides, few left, gotta kill something bad or wait til the other player pushes through the blockade.

But all these spaceships are 'lel fukhueg battle chapel in space, 2big5me cant comprehend.' Even if its half of one, just need a fluffy ship to make a carcass of. Help please

>> No.45994147

Look for the crashed lander from the battle for macragge box set on Ebay?

>> No.45994176

blurry af picture [email protected] but looks good from what I can tell

>> No.45994264

Get some of the small sized plastic cross stitch sheets, flat plasticard, and diamond plate plasticard.


>> No.45994350

Bold and clean. Looks like he has a Charlie Chaplin mustache though.

>> No.45994537

Im looking to actually make a whole board setting for this, but thank you. It needs to be able to fit small/medium units in it, but still have most of the hull intact for cover

>> No.45994568

Was looking at something like this: http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b98/Corai/IF7_zpsecd19122.jpg but since I didn't know what diamondplate plasticard was, that is already a huge help. Thank you!

>> No.45994597

Perfect! This was exactly what I'm looking for, thank you so much.

>> No.45994634

>trying a new painting technique
>mess up a little
>actually like how it came out
>have no idea how to replicate it
just kill me desu

>> No.45994680

Looking pretty sick, the blending on the sail could be a bit better but aside from that it looks awesome (so does the rest of the army in the background).

>> No.45994686

Something like this, for any anons that havent seen the old '03 version of Clone Wars

>> No.45994871

yeah they're for specific wolves, it will require some fidgeting to get it right, I've been having trouble with the exact same thing for a while now.

>> No.45994920


Intact escort ships start at 750m long...

Build some of the imperial scenery into really narrow, ship interior portions, clad the windows with plasticard and stuff, really tear up the edges so it looks broken off.
Build a big naval prow section out of plasticard to make it distinctive?

Wrecked Thunderhawk would cost so much it's not even funny, and looks a bit smaller than you want.

Shark assault boat?

>> No.45995150

Hey WIP, how can I resize my photos before i post? I've tried cropping them and it doesnt seem to work. BTW its from my phone if that helps.

>> No.45995212

Oh i was definitely wanting to do a huge, ornate prow at one edge. The whole ship will be a basic funnel, go too far back and you get a chokepoint, but your escape vehicle will not be able to get right to you. Thinking of subbing Necrons for the battle droids, and having them fight a modded Necron HQ as the sub for Grievous

>> No.45995225

Eh, I'll just have to get 3 of those with all their paws on the ground (for stability), get all the techy bits for them and try to make them look at least a bit different from one another.

>> No.45995363

By cropping them you'll lose some weight, that is simple maths.
The otherway to do it is to mess around in your camera settings, to go from a bajillion pixels to a respectable amount. Mine was simple to see, I went from 4k×something, to less than half that.
Then you can just go back to normal settings when you're done shooting your models.

>> No.45995507

>tfw don't know how to paint red so it turns orange instead

>> No.45995519

Can anyone guess how this darker blue was painted? It looks a lot like citadel Dark Reaper.

>> No.45995692

In the same way that over-highlighting black means you've just painted grey, over-highlighting red turns it orange.

If you're going to layer like that rather than edging, try

A) Toning down your highlights with a glaze
B) Darker shade layer- mix your base red with brown.

>> No.45995887

Fuck the haters, I wish I could rip the legs off of all my Deathwing right now and get these cool armoured looking one.
Dark Angels are a real medieval themed army and your dude is putting my DW Knights to shame.

>> No.45996179

Can anyone tell me how tall a Skitarii walker is? The jousting, shooty one
not the Onager

>> No.45996369

What model is that? Is it warma?

>> No.45996391

Working on a knightly themed chaos lord. Unsure of which pose to go for so just blu tack things in place.

Which looks better?

>> No.45996417

Buy a Thunderhawk and use it as wreckage.

>> No.45996450

this literally happened to me painting ork skin earlier

>> No.45996484

I've gotta get my unpainted infinity figures back from my friend. those make me want to paint them again

>> No.45996509

First one. The second would work if the sword arm was extended fully to a strike, but that looks more like he's in a guard position, and that's not a very Chaos lordy of him.

>> No.45996540


im kinda digging it, even if its not on purpose.

>> No.45996805

Was trying to find more pics of some crashed ship terrain form 90's White Dwarf (pictured), found this instead. So you could totally do something like a Frigate if you want even bigger

>> No.45996985

That's awesome, almost perfect. Probably going to make it in grids then donate it to my LGS, but it will be bigger than that. Thank you!

>> No.45997245

How primed is too primed? I'm brand new to this, and I was watching a series of videos on how to paint minis. In his priming video, he showed the mini completely covered, unable to see any plastic at all. I saw another video though that called that overpriming. He stated that you should be able to see specks of plastic through the primer. A comment on his video cited the fact that woodwork and other crafts do this for primers as well, so it made sense.

I want to ask you guys though, how much primer is overpriming? Is that speckled idea really shitty? Either way, can you explain why?

>> No.45997263

The pistol-glove looks weird on the left one, especially if you consider the direction the gun is pointing when he is not aiming, right one looks fine, but only if you put him toe to toe with an enemy.

>> No.45997384

I have that one, but in green. Man, 1997 is long gone ...

>> No.45997400

Ideally you want a completely covering coat without clogging the details. Primer does contract a little as it dries so sometimes what might looked slightly overprimed after spraying will be fine once it dries. Still, you basically want to apply as little primer as possible to get as much of a complete coat as possible.

And yes, speckled is bad. It means parts of the model are unprimed so paint won't adhere as well to it. Honestly though, if you're sealing 'em up with varnish afterwards it won't really hurt.

>> No.45997934

Still has a ways to go before I'd call it done, need to redo the checks on the shoulder pad, looks shit.

>> No.45998107

Dettol works a bloody treat, can be expensive. I'd be suggesting just normal luke warm water with detergent in it to wash your figures in after a dettol bath. Metho has ruined the detail on a few of my marines

>> No.45998132

SO I had the same problem with my vehicles, I used nuln oil to darken my models, but it looked blotchey on my vehicles. Here is how I solved it.

Take desired ink, get a secondary container. Now I did this much but you dont have to. Add the whole pot in (this was back when they were small) and 2 pots of lahimian medium to dilute it without using water.

Then I coated the vehicles with 2 coats of testors dull coat and let that dry. Then put ink over it. With a large brush do areas, then with a clean brush soak up any excess ink. Looks good.

>> No.45998254

there is a reason no two of these have the same result on the wings. And it's not because I wanted them all to look unique.

>> No.45998403

You want to break the surface tension to prevent pooling. Flow aid/flow release is the main way to do so. You can also use dish washing liquid but be more careful with it.

>> No.45999163

Why haven't you removed the flash around his toes?

>> No.45999187

If i do that pose the pistol will be cut off. I just tacked it their to figure things out before cutting.

>> No.46001233

For my Orks, I'm going to make one more Gunwagon/Trukk.

This one is going to be themed to be the Danger Cart from ATHF, but pulled by a Mangler Squig instead of Meatwad.

What is a good 2-wheeled cart that I can use as a basis for the Danger Cart to loot?

>> No.46001267

And the Danger Cart that I forgot to attach a picture of.

>> No.46001422

get gud at cardboard

>> No.46001471

I love the idea. But an Ork Carl in a looted 2 Wycked is now something i need to make. Sorry, Tau Backlog

>> No.46001918

I so want to see these when they're completed. The start already has me drooling for more.

>> No.46001930

Been working on repainting my x-wing fleet like this. White is extremely unforgiving...

Need suggestions for the decimator's scheme, and what to do about the intakes on the rear of my TIEs. Because as the next image shows, I'm a bit stuck with the current baboon ass.

>> No.46001957

As promised: baboon ass.

>> No.46001977

Looks exactly like the things around some of the walkways at Southbank QLD.

>> No.46002155

Looking for a specific kind of shield. Don't have a pic sadly, just a description.

A dude at my FLGS had his Crusaders as some kind of conversion from fantasy units. Bretonnia, I think he said. Anyways, they had these awesome shields that were four sided, almost squarish but with soft edges and a mildly tapered tip. Another anon in the WIP thread a few days ago had them on his Terminators. Anyone have any idea where they came from?

>> No.46002245

You're not just thinking of storm shields are you?

>> No.46002328

No, they were way smaller than those.

>> No.46002367

Can you do a drawing of the rough shape, might make it easier to find

>> No.46002368

man-at-arms shields?

>> No.46002471


Kinda like this.

>> No.46002489

No. See >>46002571

>> No.46002501


>> No.46002510

Just looks like a plain heater shield to me.

>> No.46002517

similar shape but way smaller and there wasn't really any design on them.

>> No.46002616

those are classic 4th/5th edition empire/bret shields

you can find similar ones in the knightly order kit, though they have details on them

>> No.46002618


>> No.46002668

That one on the far right looks exactly like it. Thank you.

>> No.46002718

I need help, lads. I'm new to the 40K and I want my first army to be Chaos Demons.

I intend for the core of my army to be the Infernal Tetrad, which is one of each flavor of Daemon Prince.

It looks like there's literally only one model of Daemon Prince though. And he looks like a Khorne worshipper. Are there good substitutions for Tzeentch, Nurgle and Slaanesh? I don't want to just buy 4 Daemon Prince models and paint one blue, one green, one red and one pink.

>> No.46002744

A shot of my developing decimator. Gonna need a lot of cleanup when I'm done. I'm thinking a thick black line in the middle of that white gap. Then some null oil wash along the crevices and machinery.

>> No.46002758

Forgot the picture of course.

>> No.46002823

There's a couple old ones for 40k that are internet only:

>> No.46002845

Whoa, these are fucking cool. Thanks.
Sadly the first one also is very Khorne-esque. I have a feeling I'm gonna have the biggest problem with the birdman. Tzeentch is so cool. I wanna do him justice.

Definitely gonna get the Nurgle one though.

>> No.46002886





Anything wrong with fielding these guys as daemon princes?

>> No.46002909

It depends on your own playgroup

>> No.46002951

Try googling "demon miniature" or something along those lines, there's tons of miniature manufacturers that might have something you can use as a base and convert a bit.
>I have a feeling I'm gonna have the biggest problem with the birdman
Doesn't really have to have avian features, looking like a sorcerer with a magic doohickeys and runes and stuff will work fine.

>> No.46002956

Might cause some confusion, since they're very much specific other units. Most people make total custom Daemon Princes rather than just sub in existing troops.

>> No.46002957

Either way, he's now down to Tzeentch and Slaanesh.

There's also https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Be-lakor-Daemon-Prince-2016 as another base model for any conversions.

Idk the current daemons too well, so I'm not sure what his restrictions are re: what he needs to be WYSIWYGing on the Tetrad.

>> No.46003040

The gaunt summoner could make a decent tzeentch prince.

>> No.46003075

I was just thinking that! Just needs like 30 Ibis's around it

>> No.46003093

There's actually a 4th Daemon prince on the store as well https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Daemon-Prince-2016

>> No.46003273

This guy could work as a Tzeentch prince. Just use the helmed head and sword, then paint him in blues and purples with some pink highlights.

>> No.46003545

Here's a preview, probably not going to be remotely as good as these guys since these took 5 days to paint and those took 5 hours

>> No.46003773

>Chaos Space Magmarines

>> No.46004087

For anyone interested, here's a size comparison between a battlewagon and a puppetswar warbus

>> No.46004131

Normally I'm not a fan of CSM models, but they look damn nice

>> No.46004136

Any good tutorials for sculpting fire/flames? I friend of mine wants to commission a flaming Prince of Tzeentch from me, but I'm pretty shit at sculpting. Tips would help...

>> No.46004143


I'd say a red glaze or wash over the top would probably sort that out while keeping most of the blended effect.

>> No.46004147

anyone have any good guides for painting brighter oranges? i've been trying to layer troll slayer orange over jokaero orange and its only led to pain and suffering

>> No.46004182

Those methods take so long and require so much work after.

Just go down to a hardware store and by a can of paint stripper, takes 2 minutes, literally disolves everything plastic, superglue all the paint, and then you wash it off in water and prime it again after drying.

Detol is also quite toxic for humans don't breath that shit even if it has great ventilation.

>> No.46004219

>literally disolves ... plastic
This is why those methods exist. Some people want their nice plastic models to not come out of the paint stripper looking like the Wicked Witch of the West post-Dorothy.

>> No.46004323

Redstripe, its beer. Hurrah beer!

I could see that warbus being used as public transportation, orks having to deposit teef as they get on, all of them on their way to waagh.

Soo much burning and purging to be done. But first more cleaning of mold lines, base coating, and painting.

>> No.46004430

My first NL squad. I intend to have all the traitor legions represented. Still got two raptors to go. How'd I do?

>> No.46004646

Fantays probably has several chariots that would work.

>> No.46004669

purple bases are gross

otherwise I love them

>> No.46004670

I think technically they look okay anon, i'd just make them bigger next time.

>> No.46004689

new genestealers have needle pistols, try ebay

>> No.46004780

I'm okay with this, because eventually only the rim will be purple. I just haven't made up my mind on a basing scheme.

>> No.46004833


>> No.46004937

Well, I guess I'm now purple base anon.

>> No.46005143

Eye of terror. Purple mud with neon pink & green flora.

>> No.46005254


>> No.46005276

One of sciborg dwarves. It's from the football range, but there is absolutely nothing football related in the miniature so it can be used as a fantasy miniature.

>> No.46005286

Detol is toxic.... to cats. It smells of pine. Admittedly, it will play a number on your skin if you don't wash your hands or if you use it a lot but... this is a substance used as a disinfectant in kitchens and hospitals. I've never known anyone suffer from breathing its fumes.... unless they were REALLY overdoing it.... or were a cat.

>> No.46005314

I'll also add that I've known diluted detol be used on scrapes and cuts when I was a kid... it's hardly Nitromorz*.

*old-style Nitromorz will fuck up your lungs, your skin and your eyes. New version isn't as bad.... but it's not as good either.

>> No.46005519

the reason no one does this is because it sounds too good to be true. I did a whole army with the dettol method, and will never do that again.

>> No.46005531

Give me your color scheme.

I will consume it.

>> No.46005536

Why? I used dettol several times and it was fine.

>> No.46005551

It just takes fucking ages I did like 2500 points in over a few days. I mean it works and all, no real complaints other than labour involved.

>> No.46005580

Things I didn't know I needed: Otto Mann ork driving DA WAAAGH BUS!

>> No.46005589

>It just takes fucking ages
Ultra Sonic cleaner, you need to place the models on top of the ... whatever emits those waves.
Destroys hardened liquid greenstuff though

>> No.46005643

>Get on board, little grots! Da WAAAGH Bus ain't got no brakes!

>> No.46005651

>Ultra Sonic cleaner
I just googled that. Seems interesting. If I ever got one it would have to accommodate a land raider. So probably exy as fuck.

>> No.46005737

Like, it CAME with brakes, but we ripped them out and put more fuel there.

>> No.46005743

This one cost me... 50€ I think? Put a towel under it though and like I said, the real deal 's only right above those emitters.

>> No.46005783

Food for thought.

>> No.46005807

>And speakers so we can WAAGH louder

>> No.46005983

Finished my BaC Contemptor.

>> No.46006084

>alright, time to stop being lazy, lets paint this hive tyrant!
>hive tyrant gone


>> No.46006168

I finished up the sides last night and am currently wondering what weapons to put on this

>> No.46006171

I hate it when wip projects flee.

>> No.46006306

I must have left him at my old apartment, FUCK

>> No.46006334

no wait, I found the 2 heads, where the fuck is the rest

>> No.46006541

This makes me want to into chinaman

>> No.46006697

Half of those seem like what you get with Finecast desu.

>> No.46006716

That´s the joke I think.

>> No.46006735

My current problem is that I love some of the sculpts that are now finecast, but absolutely hate that shit with a passion.

I've also realised that scults that appeal to me are basically: any space marine not in crab-stance (Emperor's Champion, Sicarius, etc.)

>> No.46006747

Just get the original metals off ebay. You shouldn't be giving GW money anyway.

>> No.46006773

These days I'm buying in my local GW because the manager really puts the time into making it good, alas.

>> No.46006787

Get yourself an airbrush, base layering with a brush is tedious, soul-killing work that makes every model take 5x as long to complete.

And airbrush and compressor that's good enough to prime, basecoat and layer stuff with costs less than 3 gw boxes, you only need an expensive one if you're in the business of painting flames and naked ladies on peoples harleys.

That said, good job, nice choice of colour.

>> No.46006808

Could someone post the picture of that Brown/gray metal Sigmarine with a custom knight-like helmet I see posted here every once in awhile?

I'm thinking of doing something similar

>> No.46007134


>> No.46007170

hey /tg/ warmawhore here. taking a break from painting warjacks to paint some everblight. i've started a project where i basically paint each battlegroup to improve my skills and let friends play with to learn the game.

i started this guy wanting a dark, cool rocky top with bright orange skin, but now i'm afraid of him turning into a pumpkin. the rocky blight is layered incubi darkness/washed nuln oil, and is a little more green than i wanted. i think this needs to end up blueish to offset the orange skin. and now i'm wondering should the skin be bright orange like I originally wanted or should I make it more peachy/pale? layering the bright orange seems like a lot of work but I want a vibrant model.

this is bugging me even at work. can I press on and persevere or should I strip and get a new, easier scheme?

>> No.46007182

also, here are my first two finished battlegroups on display.

>> No.46007214 [SPOILER] 

This is a cruel and uncaring world for some models, can't really blame them from trying to escape. This little fella was one of the unlucky ones...

>> No.46007246

took some anons advice and tried to do the basecoat a bit more completely.

>> No.46007263

>> No.46007272

>> No.46007291

Just primed this, now looks like sleek black rubber.

>> No.46007355


Advice anon here.

You get a few points for using contacta, listening a bit, doing better pics and not giving up.

However, you can still see bright spots of uncoated material in the track section.

If this is resin you aren't going to get it covered with wash alone. Same goes for plastic, but pooling is worse on resin.

You also need to work on your contrasts.
Using white directly on green for teeth isn't a good idea, it's going to look muddy and shit.

Take a dark brown and precoat teeth, nails and horns, wash it black/brown, then use khaki to highlight it. After that you can layer up to pure white if you wish.

>> No.46007384

>bright spots of uncoated material in the track section.
And this is why I undercoat everything in black.

>> No.46007462

You shouldve seen the last pics.
He wasn't lying when he said he did a better basecoat..

Vehicles get black primer and a big ol drybrush of metallics before doing anything else when I do em. Especially ork stuff.

Btw, first kan is ready, second is glued, arms are being washed atm.

>> No.46007601

Didn't someone buy that and fix it up nice though?

>> No.46007626

i kind of like it without the arms.

>> No.46007629

i love the white and red for the orks.

heres one of the earlier photos of the skorcha

what i was aiming for with the teeth was a base layer of ushabti bone layered with skull white with a brown wash in the chips, would that work or do you reckon start from brown?

>> No.46007741

Since there is no recess near teeth and nails of an ork for wash to pool in you need to do a border of sorts. The (imo) easiest and on table top range best looking way is as I already said, use brown and light brown, but leave a border of the darker brown around it, so the top layer gets bordered off the orkish green. After that you can use the wash to tie it in, without destroying the contrast.

See pic related. Shitty quality, I know, but I couldn't get said areas any better.

>> No.46007866

Ya, I know what you mean.
Looks like an adorable contergan at-st with anger management problems.

>> No.46007890

my only real experience doing teeth prior was these squiggy guys

i think your idea is good for orks though

>> No.46007952

I guess the thumbnail of my pic shows what I mean, his thumbnail being clearly set off his hand. Thumbnailception.

Your squig has gums though, so in theory you can use purple/dark red/whatever to draw a line between teeth and face.
Most ork heads don't have that, some do however, as well as some with tongues.

Also your squig foot has little indents at the nails, where they grow out of the foot, so you could do a nice contrast with brown wash.

>> No.46007981

that's a good idea
i might come back to them and try to use the brown wash to cover the white dots that i dont notice until i photograph them, between the teeth, claws, and feet.

theyre fine on the tabletop but in high resolution theyre glaring

>> No.46008029

I see a khornesquig, a squeentch, and a squrgle. Which one's the slaaneg, and who are the other two?

>> No.46008093

White and red is great look for orks, painting dirty white is so easy to do too, i did it on this guy in like 10 mins, base white, 50/50 water/ aggrax onto white, wait to dry, 50/50 water/agrax again then pure agrax around any rivets and areas of heavy wear stippled with a bit of back from a sponge to finish!

>> No.46008310

This looks really great. You may want to touch up or redo the runes though. They look pink in the picture too.

>> No.46008326

I assume Slaaneg is the pinkish/peach one with the beauty mark.

>> No.46008332

Ave Dominus Nox

>> No.46008506

No one likes warmachine but here's my blightbringer.

>> No.46008578

>No one likes warmachine but here's my blightbringer.

That's pretty damn sexy, anon.

>> No.46008596

fokken noice, i love blacklining you did on him 10/10 would put on my desk

>> No.46008657

>fokken noice, i love blacklining you did on him 10/10 would put on my desk

I just carefully put nuln oil in the crevices. I need to blend out his head a bit more, I got lazy ugh.

Thanks for the kind words, boys.

Attached is his body a bit better. It was a wip pic. He's done now.

>> No.46008774

Very nice. Was actually a pretty cool project.

>> No.46008879


Guys I'm hitting a wall right now, I don't feel motivated to do any more ork stuff, but somehow have the urge to finish an old semi build necron ark.

What scheme should I go for?
I try to play a fluffy Trazyn list most of the time, so most of the units are from different dynasties, "acquired" by the intergalactic trollmaster to go on some loot fetch quest.
So my 'crons are a bit colorful, to say the least.

My wraiths, spyders and scarabs all have white hulls, my stalker a white cockpit with black/dark green legs and tech parts, warriors are common silver with green runes, deathmarks almost codex standard too.

What should I do the ark in?

>> No.46008883

from the thumbnail I thought you either painted an actual ratking, or glued a bunch of rat corpses together to make one.

>> No.46009118

Plastic Sororitas where?

>> No.46009258

>new genestealers have needle pistols, try ebay

Only one of the 39 models (the Genestealer Primus) in Deathwatch: Overkill is thus armed. Still, if you gotta have the real deal, eBay's the right place to pick this up.

>> No.46009444

i like the skin. i posted my stuff here. >>46007170
could you give me your advice? I want to get a orange skin similar to yours and pull off some sort of dark teal for the blight but maybe I should make it a dustier grey on top.

>> No.46009472

It´s not that people don´t like warmachine in WIP, it´s that warmachine players are mostly WAAC platers that hate painting and conversions.

Nice mini anony.

>> No.46009507 [DELETED] 


>year of our lord two thousand and sixteen
>not having a painting bible

But seriously guys buy a fucking notebook it doesn't even need to be as nice as mine.

>> No.46009558


>year of our lord two thousand and sixteen
>not having a painting bible

But seriously guys buy a fucking notebook it doesn't even need to be as nice as mine.

>> No.46009596

Could we get some pictures of what you're describing?

>> No.46009645

Yeah, WM/Hordes night at my flgs is pretty big. They usually have 12-15 separate games going, with a few random guys walking around waiting to play or just chilling.

Yet, for some reason - not a single army is completely painted. Most are primed white or black, a few have just 1 or 2 partially painted models. And the guys themselves are such a bunch of dicks.

Im a 'normie' who plays 40k. Educated, successful, clean cut in appearance, and friendly toward everyone. These guys snicker and sneer at me, walk past and drop off-color remarks, etc. They treat anyone playing GW games like we are leperous nazi's. Its ridiculous.

So I basically see WM/Hordes as a containment game for waac assholes and socially inept, insecure types. I tried to get into it with a Cryx army a couple years ago, and was treated so rudely by the main guys in the group I never associated with them again.

>> No.46009698

My WMH group in NoVA seems pretty inviting but I'm definitely in it more for the painting and playing. We have a lot of Press Gangers here (the volunteers that work with PP) and they make the scene pretty inviting and have great painting minis to show off. I haven't played much at all but I definitely get the vibe that WMH is full of rules lawyering tourneyfags. I love the models are big enough to airbrush though and got into it because I wanted to paint a bunch of the battlegroups to teach friends, which would also allow me a variety of painting opportunities.

>> No.46009858

Asked this in 40k general but I might have some luck here, what is a large 40k kit that is heavily in demand (IE, it's strong ingame) or what army pieces could I sell painted on ebay? Taking my first steps into commission painting and just doing a test run. I'd be very grateful if some 40k players chimed in!

Here's a recent WIP to keep things related

>> No.46009876

needs a agrax earthshade bath.

also highlight your ork skin, and paint his armband something other than white.

>> No.46009912

Can you guys post pictures of your first paint job, if you have any? I'm about to paint my first one and want to see if other people did a great job or a shitty one on their first go

>> No.46009942

i consider this my first seriously painted model. i did it in highschool. please don't flock your minis like i did back then.

>> No.46009964

this is the kind of stuff im producing now, post college and now that I have time and money for hobbying again.

>> No.46009988

and one more. im the same guy who posted the cryx/cygnar battlegroups and the WIP carnivean up here >>46007170

>> No.46009997

Your guy looks decent, but a few parts look sloppy.

I wouldn't recommend your selling method.
It's just too much gambling to put a lot of work in a whole unit on a whim or trend and then having it bought by nobody, because "the backpack is field grey instead of olive drab, what a shitty offer".

Maybe you should start offering solo models, hq's and standard transport vehicles.
You also need a few painted minis to show off, before anyone buys anything.
Anything else should depend on the customer's wish, and I'd start work after contracting exactly how they want what.

>> No.46010027


This Nid is at hole 4 at the moment, a few yards away from playing under par.

>> No.46010099


Like I said he's WIP!

Yeah I want to pre paint models to sell to start with, to practise and stuff. Just need help deciding on a monster/vehicle

Here's another model I painted a year or so ago

>> No.46010146


That's a nice red you've got going on there, care to share the recipe?

>> No.46010262

If I want to bust these guys out and fix them, I'd do more edge highlighting and a better wash. Unfortunately they all broke apart in transit and they are so far down in my backlog I wouldn't bother. Luckily I still have the pictures. It's important to keep your old minis to see how far you've grown.

>> No.46010351

wow i hope i can do something that nice on my first try

>> No.46010377

The secrets are patience and good reference materials. Watch the WarhammerTV painting tutorials and follow those steps (not necessarily the colors, but definitely the steps). They really make an effort to make the painting aspect of the hobby really approachable and we all love Duncan.

>> No.46010400


Sure thing, mang.

>Army painter black coat
>heavy drybrush Model Color "Oily steel"
>GW Mephiston red. Dilute as needed. I usually take a brush tip full into the lid, dip the brush into water, mix the paint in the lid.
>GW Nuln oil wash. Especially around nuts'n'bolts. Give each surface a quick layer of it too! "Massage in" a few weathering marks as well, especially in the vicinity of vents, tubes, moving shit.
>Hard edge highlight with GW Evil sunz scarlet. Dilute it a bit, but remove excess paint from brush on tissue. Use side of brush if possible, else use tip. Give each screw a dot of this as well.
>Red parts towards the base also got a bit of ultra dry khaki drybrush. This goes well as additional edge highlight.

>> No.46010503

>Can you guys post pictures of your first paint job, if you have any? I'm about to paint my first one and want to see if other people did a great job or a shitty one on their first go

We derail WIP occasionally with this stuff, but ya know wot? This thread is already autosaging, and we're nowhere near the image limit, so why the hell not?

>> No.46010531

>This Nid is at hole 4 at the moment, a few yards away from playing under par.

My Blood Angels refuse to battle anyone anywhere except on perfectly-manicured 41st millennium golf courses.

>> No.46010585

the shooty one is just about 4 inches tall if we discount the radio reciever cord thingy.
Oh zog me boss, dem sum pwetty transitions on da paint ya got there.
Gonna get around to making my dark souls inspire inquisistion crusaders with this scheme some day i swear.
I really should get myself a painting bible.
where did you get yours ?

>> No.46010613

Riptides, Ghostkeels, and Stormsurges. Tau playerbase is heavily populated with FotM WAAC tards. They play solely to win, and cant be bothered with painting.
Not to mention the lazy and stupid nature of these guys is conducive to selling them painted models.

>> No.46010640

>I really should get myself a painting bible.
>where did you get yours ?

Found it in a cabin in the woods.

>> No.46010704


Covent Garden market, the guys that make them have a website if I remember it I'll post it.

>> No.46010706

>Klaatu barada dilutu

>> No.46010783

fuck no i'm going into a cabin in the woods for shit like that. Nerves can't handle it.
Too many skinwalker stories man.
Hope you find it mate
mfw i'm a tau player that just plays for fun and absolutely hate to bring anything bigger than a ghostkeel, and half my army is forgeworld kroot stuff

>> No.46010829

>mfw i'm a tau player that just plays for fun and absolutely hate to bring anything bigger than a ghostkeel, and half my army is forgeworld kroot stuff

You sound like some kind of Bizarro-Tau. What motivates you to be so ... reasonable?

>> No.46010948

just by being a reasonable human being i suppose.
Probably also because i like ''big empire of many alien aliances'' and their sensible combat doctrines, instead of 'chicks dig giant robots' attittude there seems to be catered towards nowadays.
I don't mind a big centerpiece model, especially if it's nicely painted, but riptides/squatbot are not that pretty and they are way too prominent on the board for my taste.

Also, kroot are just so cool.
Wish vespid wasnt so damn ugly or else i would buy more than the 10 i occasionally bring to games.

>> No.46010984


Needle pistol looks like it would be pretty easy to convert

>> No.46011183 [SPOILER] 


>> No.46011263

finally necrons have the D

>> No.46011329


(But he got his own particle whip now tho)

>> No.46011351

>Look up some true scale Mk3 conversions
>Find this

My erection cannot be contained.

>> No.46011362

D-ceiver c'tan proxy with a slight foot fetish

>> No.46012066

>> No.46012103

Fuck me.

>> No.46012195

I would if I could.

>> No.46012228

what kind of glue do i use on metal minis? I recently bought my first metal model from 2nd hand wbsite in my country. Its a painboy, but how do i glue his hand to his body? I only have superglue thick

>> No.46012288


sorry meant to post in my other thread

>> No.46012293

You dirty bastard.
Is this feral ork anon? Kinda looks like it.

>> No.46012309

Superglue Thick will do just perfectly.
It's just about the only thing that works on metal.
If it turns out to be fragile, pin it to be safe.

>> No.46012314

Superglue and pinning

>> No.46012330

not him, but its some random image i got from the internet

>> No.46012356

How do i drill through metal? I only have a tiny drill from armypainter

>> No.46012391

Those can drill into metal just fine.
If you're unsure, visit your local hardware/DIY store and get some 1mm hardened steel drillbits, those are basically the same ones you got with your pin vice.

>> No.46012548


ok thanks, i just tried to drill them. how far do they need to go? a whole paperclip or so?

>> No.46012674

Thank you for telling me about that channel. I had found that a few months ago, watched some and really enjoyed it. However, I forgot what it was called and was kicking myself for it.

>> No.46012696

a few millimeters will do (there won't be too much weight on it), you don't want to accidentally drill through the whole hand.

Just use a good pair of clippers to cut a piece of paperclip that's long enough.

>> No.46013163

Im new to WH40K but have done lots of model painting in my time, my flatmate gave me this metal Killa Kan as a gift, and now i want to build an Ork army so i can play with him. What paint colors would you recommend for the Killa Kan? I would like something red. Sorry for the shitty pic

>> No.46013329

at first i wanted to start a chaos army but this killa kan is just too awesome not to include it in an Ork army, i will post better quality pics once i get to painting

>> No.46013431

Don't download that nvidia driver. I hear it's bad stuff

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