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[ERROR] No.42535240 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Happy little houses Edition

Citadel Painting Guides:


Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Videos, Visions and White Dwarves:




>> No.42535353

Warboss Skrapmuncha used to be a Warboss famed for his prodigious size and vicious temper - fairly usual as warbosses go. That was, until his battlewagon collided with a promethium relay at high speed.

>> No.42535395

Skrapmuncha's body burned in the accident, his limbs charred to uselessness. But he was a tenacious Ork, he wouldn't have become a warboss otherwise. Thus he dragged his now-limbless body back to camp by his teef.

Once he had returned, he demanded that the big mek repair him to his former stature. The mek, after first demanding half his fee in advance, went to work.

>> No.42535438

The mek worked for three days, but the damage to Skrapmuncha's body was severe. Eventually, the mek found success in replacing Skrapmuncha's lost limbs with those of a wrecked killa kan he had lying around.

The operation was not an entire success however. Being forced to use kan limbs had forged Skrapmuncha into a strange beast - a gangrel creature no longer possessing the familiar silhouette of a true Ork.

Skrapmuncha's leadership did not falter much, however. Whatever respect he had lost from not looking 'propa Orky' he gained back through frequent use of his power drill and high velocity steel headbutts.

Skrapmuncha had been reborn.

>> No.42535462


Sorry for the potato pictures.

It's a WIP obviously, I'm planning on adding a lot more armour to the upper body and a second shoota to the gun arm. I'm also planning on shaving down the daemon prince back significantly and replacing it with exhaust stacks.

>> No.42535594

Love it, i'm sick of every ork army i see being led by Gaz.

>> No.42535624

Looks interesting.

Have you considered giving him some orky plasticard armor plates on those exposed machinery parts?

>> No.42535669

Looks nice, I like the idea and the backstory though I have some questions.

He's clearly the warboss, yet he looks more like a beast. And while this might be a good thing, reading the backstory I expected him to look weird, obviously full of ork body enhancements, but still like a warboss. don't get me wrong looks great and has a lot of potential, but in my opinion he's only brutal now, and not cunnin' at all. And you have to please both Gork and Mork to be a Warboss.
I'd say, make him look like a boss, he's already the biggest and the baddest of the orks, now make him look like he actually leads them, I think he'd really benefit from a victorious pose, or some other way of depicting his greatness.
That's just my opinion, still looks great, would play against and don't let my ranting ruin him for you.

>> No.42535716

Could probably be done by converting the skull that covers his face into a helmet.

>> No.42535737

Oh my, yes. This is sort of his skeleton form, without bulkier armour plates.

I totally agree with your assessment of him now being more beast than Ork now.

The hidden truth? The Big Mek that 'repaired' him has replaced him as the tactical and effective leader of the warband, but keeps Skrapmuncha in place as a controllable figurehead to manipulate.

>> No.42535764

Is there some chinaman selling old FW hive tyrant bitz?
I fucking WANT the FW venom cannon, but the kit is canned and the molds gone.

>> No.42535835

Does citadel imperial primer make much of a difference compared to abaddon black when priming?

>> No.42535858

you could also do that by giving him a slapdash ork style 'sensor array' on a shoulder.

Like say a rhino antenna dish with some bundled scopes and greenstuff cables.

>> No.42535973

I'm planning on doing something along those lines - I'm in the process of creating an iron gob/lower jaw out of trukk bitz.

>> No.42535987

Well, then the Big Mek needs the smug head with shit-eating grin from the new Painboy set or some other way to show he's the cunning to the Warboss's brutal.

>> No.42535994

Great idea, thanks! I can use part of the kustom force field bit that comes in the meganobz kit.

>> No.42536160

How do I use green stuff? And how do I sculp it/use it?

>> No.42536198

posting my count as Saint Celestine and female verghast

>> No.42536208

Looks like Harbinger lost her attendants.

>> No.42536257

using it for 40k anyway.

>> No.42536261

You mix the two components until they are green, then stick it where you want it.
You use water or oil based lubricants, such a vaseline to keep your tools non-sticky and start pushing it around until you are satisfied.
It sounds kinda dirty now that I've written it.
Regular name is Kneadite, will be much cheaper if you buy it branded as such. It's original use was in plumbing, which is why it will harden even under water. Heat will speed the hardening up.

>> No.42536275

>Crisis suit in the background
RIP in peace

>> No.42536343

I bought green stuff of eBay a few days ago, and I just got pic related in the mail today

>> No.42536356

>Rest in Peace in pieces

>> No.42536368

I figured as much. Interested to see how it turns out, Anon.

>> No.42536369

Just remembered that I recently made this pdf.
This should get you started.

>> No.42536387

>ripperoni in pepperoni

>> No.42536436

Just made new ruin out of foamboard. each floor is roughly 7cm/3inches with plenty of space to deploy large bases in whatever configuration one desires. Next step is more battledamage and then painting/weathering

>> No.42536439

Ca you add how to do cloaks in there

>> No.42536451

more pics

>> No.42536454

Add some Imperial propaganda posters on the side of it, I think it would like neat

>> No.42536461

last pic

>> No.42536467

What kind of daemon are you holding captive in the cage to the left!

>> No.42536480

Basically you flatten some GS into a sheet on some plastic that has been sufficiently lubed, wait 15 minutes or so until it's not super sticky anymore, cut it into a rectangular shape and then possibly wait a little more depending on how pliable it still is. If it's still very strechy it hasn't sat long enough. You take it off the sheet and fix it onto the mini. If you want flowing capes and stuff like that you have to prop them up on something while they dry.

You can also drill some holes into the mini and insert some wires for stability before putting it on there. Once the GS has dried just cover the wire from the underside with GS and smooth it into the cape to hide it.

Not hard to do, but it takes a little practice to figure out how the material behaves.

>> No.42536501

I already prepared em. gonna print em out next time i go to the library.

Rat cultists. one of them has upper respiratory infection so i guess it has mark of nurgle or something

>> No.42536617 [DELETED] 

toy nerdzzzzz

>> No.42536840

Remember to seal those edges if they're not already.

>> No.42536871

the exposed foam edges? i can coat them in PVA glue to give them a harder surface if that is what you mean.

>> No.42536899

The edges of foamboard are very prone to damage from even just casual use.

PVA won't really cut it unless you're willing to layer it on a few times. Better to go with some sort of texture paste or caulk/tile adhesive.

>> No.42536915

Where's the head from?

>> No.42536980

Ill look into it. i do got some high quality PVA that gets very durable, even in thinner coats. it hardens in half the time of regular glue as well. I have a special crate for all my terrain so they are generally handled with care.

>> No.42537388


That building reminds me of the abbey you visit at the start of oblivion

>> No.42537789


Sucks to be you, should've gotten the separate tubes. You have to cut out everything that is touching in the middle when using this because the hardener and the putty are touching and curing in the packaging.

>> No.42537830

ive had some around for a long time in dark/air-compressed packaging and i feel not even the slightest difference between the middle and the sides.

>> No.42538286

Finally managed some time to start with nobz, cuted them form sprues and... spend 2 hours on scrapping, 2 axes and 1 PK.
I feel like it's going to take ages.

>> No.42538318

Put on a good movie youve already seen before so you dont get too distracted and let time flow as you work.
thats how i prefer to work with models and terrain. That ruin i showed further up was made in a harry potter marathon.

>> No.42538433

sounds like a plan, thanks anon

>> No.42539647

Shortened the barrels to look like medusa carriages. Painting them black and going to add rust like those oil tank train cars. Also using the Dovah script for runes along it.

>> No.42539969

This may be true in some cases, but I keep my roll in a ziploc and have zero issues with premature curing. I've had it for over three years.

>> No.42540188

He means the bits that are touching, where the blue touches the yellow. You keep that before mixing? You don't notice it has cured?

>> No.42540267

So I re-based my Heinrich Kemmler model today after some feedback. I haven't decided if I should put any dead grass on the new base though. Maybe a skull?

>> No.42540468

Jetfemseer progress, started painting it.

grass sounds nice, dunno about the skull though. It might detract attention from the figure itself.

>> No.42540479

I've bought pic related for my miniatures.
Any tips how to use it properly?
Should I just spray it at open air, and have wet brush somewhere close to spread cloged varnish? or what?

Never sealed miniatures before.

>> No.42540550

Got this chinaman fulgrim in the mail yesterday, working on making him match this one-off sculpt Simon Egan did

Not sure what ill do about the face, i guess ill take a crack at recreating it from green stuff

>> No.42541012

Anyone got any of the puppetswar bushi strikers? Pic related.

If so, thoughts on them? Thinking of getting some to use as space marine honour guard. This is the only semi high resolution image of them on the entire internet from what i can find, so if anyone has some they could take pictures of that would be brilliant.

>> No.42541129

Before you take the varnish anywhere near your minis make sure it's not windy there aren't any pollen or other dust and particles in the air.
Use a piece of sprue to test if humidity and temperatures are gonna fuck with it.
Don't spray too much at once. Several thin coats is better than one thick one.

You'll hate yourself if you get airbubbles or frosted minis.
Worst feeling ever to fuck your minis up with the 'finishing touch'.

>> No.42541152

Do you by chance know how the primarchs measure up to 1:32 or 1:35 minis?
Cause you can get loads of different resin heads for those figs.

>> No.42541245

Test model for Assault Kommando conversion.

>> No.42541474

I have no idea

A space marine comes up to about belly-button height next to fulgrim

>> No.42541945

Are you going to add more exposed rebar? as it is, none of the terminal edges having at least rebar nubs sticking out makes the pieces you did add look bizarre

>> No.42541949

I have some 1:35 and 1:32 minis I intended to convert for Inquisitor a few years back. But I have no Primarchs to compare them to.

After looking at some of the pictures online and having a close look at some of my Inq minis and my 1:35 stuff I can safely say: It's a total clusterfuck.
All the 1:35 minis from Tamiya have heads ranging from only slightly bigger than GW 28mm heroic up to only a little smaller than the Inq minis. GW seems to have translated the heroic proportions into their 54mm minis. Not quite as extreme as in 28mm but still noticeable. Though all the detail on the GW minis is way sharper than on the Tamiya ones. I think FW toned the heroic thing down even more.

Now, comparing some picture in PS using base sizes as common denominator, it seems that the Primarchs are not quite as cartoony/heroic as the Inq minis, but I'm not sure I'd say they are as large as 1:35. 1:35 is a little small compared to Inq, for which 1:32 is a better fit.
So, if you the chance to look at something try to look at 1:35 stuff. But as I said even my small selection of stuff in that scale varies wildly.

TL;DR: I'm more confused than I was before now about the scales and none of this is probably helpful to you probably. Welp, at least I tried.

>> No.42541995

It has never caused an issue. I just cut across the strip and begin kneading. No cured lumps that I can detect by touch, and no trouble using the mixed GS for gap filling, press-molds, or sculpting

>> No.42542038

Definitely grass. As it is, the base is too tonally similar to the model and just blends in to the overall beige-ness of the model. You want some contrast

>> No.42542690

slight update

>> No.42543141

Also the fact that he made the rebar out of plastic card instead of using paper clips or piano wire

>> No.42543221

Fantastic job on this one, very neat an clean

>> No.42544231

I just finished painting up my turn counter from Base-X-of-War. I'm quite happy with how it turned out. I first painted it with black, then airbrushed on a layer of Mechanus Standard Gray, and airbrushed a layer of Dawnstone to give it some tonal variation, then I used black wash and drybrushed on some Dawnstone mixed with white to pop out the details, especially on the numbers and pointer where I used a little bit more white in the drybrush mix.

>> No.42544275

Behold, the WIP Brotherhood of the Stripy Pants.

>> No.42544347

how close did i come WIP ?

The XV46 Vanguard Void Battlesuit is a new Tau Battlesuit. Designed by the Earth Caste to operate in the void of space and explore Space Hulks, these smaller Battlesuits are designed to fit into tight wreckages and have yet to see widespread service within the Tau Empire.
Vanguard Battlesuits are most frequently armed with Flamers and Burst Cannon, as well as a Fusion Torch to cut through metal wrecks. However perhaps the most notable piece of equipment on the XV46 is its dense Fio'talk nanocrystalline armor. This sturdy but lightweight armor allows it to quickly operate in space as well as rapidly deploy from Manta or Orca dropships. XV46's commonly deploy DX-11 Exploratory Drones.

>> No.42544423

looks like those obnoxious zuba pants from the 90s. I like it.

>> No.42544528

So guys, after a primer catastrophe, followed by difficulty getting said primer off the model and having to soak it in Super Clean for multiple days, the model is basically unsalvageable. Any ideas on what I could do with it? I don't want to just throw it out.

Basically, there are areas where paint will simply not come, and areas where the plastic has turned white. Some areas the plastic as become pitted, probably from the chemical eating away at it. Basically, it looks like shit if I tried to paint it normally. Any ideas? I don't really play chaos so I can't just pass it off as a nurgle heretek.

>> No.42544559

Shit, forgot to mention the model is a Tech Priest Dominus. Fucking sucks because I really wanted to paint him up nice, now I am having to start over with a new one.

>> No.42544772

send it to me :P

>> No.42544973

I need some, where did you get them?

>> No.42545039

i wish these were back in style now

>> No.42545263

Fulgrim arrived without a nose, so i fashioned him a new shnoz out of GS

I also took the liberty of closing his mouth a little big

>> No.42545354

Late but is that the Daemon Prince torso?

>> No.42545420

Pretty good job. I have to learn how to use GS to fix up a couple of my Chinaman models. Fulgrim looks like a decent job otherwise.

>> No.42545591

hey I remember you from yesterday, you are the custom chaos cult guy with the pauldron problem!

This doesn't look like scribbles, but kinda awesome nonetheless!

Keep it up, I want to see your pauldron choice.

>> No.42545708

thanks, yeah I kinda ditched the writing idea because I wanted to hurry and get it done but it didn't turn out well and my local stores don't have any yellow micro pens for the writing but meh, this stripy thing is still alright

I'm still stuck on the pauldrons actually, I want red trim but red and purple, especially this color purple is really hard to do well together

>> No.42546599

Look under their 1:32 artillery

>> No.42547062

How can I shade white? The parts of robe that are white are going to be so boring beside the blue if I don't highlight/shade it, but I don't know how...

>> No.42547086

Need to base em and paint backpacks, which is another days work.

>> No.42547089

they don't ship overseas :((((((((((((((((((

>> No.42547116

Your 'white' should actually be a light grey, with the uppermost highlights the only properly white areas. Shade just like anything else, darker greys in the recesses and lighter where light sources would be reflecting.

>> No.42547139

sorry to hear, anon.
Look for the kit itself on ebay and amazon, I'm sure you can find something.

>> No.42547193

Ok thanks. Problem is I'm a pretty painter, so I normally use washes and dry brushing to highlight, not to mention all my whites/greys are pretty dried out... Idk where I'm going with this, but I guess this will be a leaning experience.

>> No.42547258

not jealous of that hair but am of those eyes

>> No.42547601

I'm liking the gold, anon.

In addition to what >>42547116 said, if you want to get a cool tone you can shade with Space Wolfs Grey/Fenris Grey/whatever theyre calling it these days. If you want a warm tone, you can shade with sepia or brown.

>> No.42547784

Man this cloak is coming together really nicely.... I just hope the white turns out well

>> No.42547905

Also, I have no idea what colour to paint the ropes here on the front. Any advice?

>> No.42548104

How about a warm brown or mahogany?

>> No.42548145

I tried out beach bone but I'm not sure how I feel about it

>> No.42548235

Yeah, not into the bone.

>> No.42548349

Hey /tg/. I want to convert up some Spyrer's for my Inquisitor's retinue, but I'm not sure what to use as a base model,
Pic related, the original Spyrer Matriarch model that I want to emulate.

>> No.42549578

Guard army W.I.P

sentinel was the first vehicle I painted..

>> No.42549638

looks pretty damn good m8, a nice classic guard army

>> No.42549657


>> No.42549668

It's magical isn't it?

>> No.42549795

I tried to do something different than my usual colours and went with a halloween theme, ran out of flock, so its baseless for now.

>> No.42550005

is that a pumpcron?

>> No.42550234

Yep, pretty new to greenstuff but i think its ok

>> No.42550458

shits awesome bro! i also dig the colors.

maybe make the eyes a bit deeper so you can recognize em at tt distance.

>> No.42550479

Thank you m8

>> No.42550660

Thanks man, what do you suggest to make the eyes deeper? A white?

>> No.42550712

Is there even any point in trying to play Inquisitor? I thought that maybe it'd be cool to make a warband or something but, if you're still expected to play it at 54 mm this shit seems impossible. All the models are OOP and super expensive and no 54 mm scale models really seem to fit well without some major green stuff work.

>> No.42551063

Again with some Salamanders. This is prior to highlighting.

>> No.42551091

>> No.42551564

I don't think it's worthwhile, but you can look up fanmade 28mm adaption of Inquisitor.

>> No.42551586

>Buying the GW wet pallette when you can make one with some paper towels and a crystal case

Clean though, just could use some shading before highlights.

>> No.42551633

AoS Skaven or Warhamhordes Skorne

>> No.42552092



>> No.42552096

Aesthetically or mechanically because AoS is a heaping pile of shit. Not a fan of warmahordes but it's better than the former.

>> No.42552512

God I want a unit of these so badly. Might take some greenstuff to some skeletons.

>> No.42553721

Help, how do I get myself to focus on one project instead of starting like 10 things and then buying even more things.

>> No.42553772


Get more storage room, do what you like.

>> No.42553984

I've got the same problem in that I keep buying shit. I've got shelves full of boxes and blisters.

But for painting I found that if I just take one box at a time I can get through them without having like 5 different squads on my painting desk at the same time.

>> No.42554035


This, I'm working my way through 50 black templar neophytes. Sometimes you just need something else to paint, so I'm also doing very colorful orks.

>> No.42554260

That hair needs work too...

>> No.42554524

How would you guys paint a mummy's bandages? I'm still using the old paints, thinking something like Vermin Brown, Bleached bone over it, and an Agrax wash

>> No.42554545


And a soft ushabti bone drybrushing over the whole thing.

>> No.42554609


Prime white, brush bone white, wash black.
Pick out bandages with bone white again, use pure white to edge highlight upper layers of gauze.
Do a spotty wash with a brown one.

If lots of em:
Prime white, sloppy drybrush bonewhite, use army painter dark tone, done.

>> No.42554788

Thread is archived, but the picture is still there >>42516889

>> No.42555435

look up the inq28 rules. theres a decent fanbase, and even some meetups

>> No.42555517

... Dire Avenger head for a farseer

>> No.42555590

looks nice!

>> No.42555623

>> No.42555653

Progress on Jetfemseer, more farseers for comparison

Can't wait til I get Eldrad to convert up

>> No.42555681

I'd agree if I didn't know as much as I did about Eldar fluff.

And if I wanted to pass off having a ghosthelm on my farseer in stricter rulebound 40k matches.

As it is it's killing me in the inside looking at it. Not because it looks bad mind you, more for inconsistency to lore.

>> No.42555703

Whats up! it's that Catachan guy

>> No.42555745

Same images as before, this is WIP general, not fish for compliments general. Show some actual progress.

>> No.42555847

I really like the greenstuff tits on that! You did a fine job!

This inspires me to greenstuff manboobs on my demons and csm of Nurgle.

>> No.42555870


He started some kind of paint along tutorial crap without even telling exactly what he's doing, and stopped after a few pics.

I also wonder if any noobs got any kind of new experience out of it.

>> No.42556145

this better not be a virus

>> No.42556191

I'm working on something pretty similar right now, any specific brands you can suggest for texture paste (and textured paint) on a budget to get that 1940s concrete and plaster look?

>> No.42556321

Orlock Heavy with Heavy Stubber. He's gonna get primed tonight, and presumably painted after that.

>> No.42556388

So I want to give my Electro-Priests a similar skincolor to Immortan Joes warboys. Any suggestions to how I'd achieve this?

>> No.42556705

not>>42536899, but I just bought a 250ml jar of structural paste at a local hobby store.
I use it for base work, and it's awesome.

Just look at the packaging, mine says "acrylic" directly on the logo. This is the best part, because your paint will stick like a charme to it, you can use it pretty heavily diluted and it will still stick, and you can even mix in a drop of paint, stir it, and have ready-to-work colored plaster.

It needs a bit of time to dry though, I'll say maybe about 3-5 hours depending on humidity, before its "solid". And by this I mean not rock solid, but dry and fully workable.
I wouldn't push a finger nail in it, but who does that to models anyway.

If they have light and coarse types, just take the rough one. You can still flatten em out, but you get a more natural look by just plopping it down on the base.
By the way: Unpainted it always looks like fresh snow to me, maybe a good choice if you wanna do snowy bases.
Or you could paint it pure white and give it a heavy diluted blue wash, I don't know.

>> No.42556733

BROTHERS, I require your aid.

I have several armies that I'm basing and rebasing in one general theme. Catachan, eldar, black templars, some nids and orks to name a few. I require jungle basing materials to do this!

This is a tall order but I can't find anything good online matching the following items I'm looking for
>bright jungle plants, foliage and flowers (rafflesia could be cool?)
>vines, bamboo, maybe critters like treefrogs?
>dark, wet looking soil though I can probably make some myself with some effort
>maybe some hardwood looking trees for terrain for bigger pieces?
>it would be nice if these things could be bought in bulk

I've looked at aquarium and terrarium plants too but I can't find anything just right.

My catachan are the latest addition. I was hoping to give them bright green jungle bases and camo so it would look like they're actually blending in with their environment like in the fluff. I'm also thinking of stripping and redoing the nids in these jungle colors, or at least one or two lictors to hide in nearby terrain during games as setpieces.

Any tips and links are appreciated! I'm in the netherlands, not a whole lot of modelers here unfortunately.

>> No.42556872


jungle ground has lots of leaves, branches and moss on it, and most of it is in a decaying state.
The earth tends to be muddy.
You could try to use your favorite mud effect as a base, make a few tiny holes to fill in with liquid effect later on to simulate puddles.

Go grab some dried cooking herbs or mixes.
Take the ones that look like leaveas and small twigs the most. Glue the bases, sprinkle herbs over them.

Some online shops sell ready to use shrubs and plants in table top scale, you could order a few. I wouldn't recommend using plants bigger than your models, because they are still the centerpiece of the base, and no one profits if your catachans are camouflaged too well.

You could also mix your army up a bit by making swamp like bases for some.
Just go wild with puddles of stagnant water, add in normal static grass, cut out a few beaten up planks of wood using plasticard, put em over the puddles.

Waist high grass or shrubs could also work.

>> No.42556995


That's the plan, I already have some water effects glue, lots of brown wash and some tamiya clear black to make cool soil. I'll look into the herbs, that sounds kinda fun to try. Maybe I'll make some vines myself with greenstuff.

>> No.42557124

Progress, at last

>> No.42557294


>> No.42557400


>finialy finish up the 10 tanks for my IG army
>buy can of clean coat to finish them up and protect the paint
>never used it before
>friend tells me to apply it in 1 heavy coat
>says he dose this with all his minis
>his minis look ok
>do it
>ruin 4 chimeras, 3 russ's a manticore and 2 hyrdas in 1 fell swoop

>> No.42557473

holy mother...

I don't use clear coat, but I read somewhere that a second coat fixes "sugar coating" issues... if that's your prob after all.
And no, I'm not trolling you.

>> No.42557477

Sure is, friendo

>> No.42557498

Skrapmuncha continues, now with exhaust stacks and extra armour on his giblets.

Tried making an iron gob for him, but nothing seemed to work.

>> No.42557525

That is a big shoota with a co-axial big shoota.

It's a shame there's no rules to represent him better than just a regular mega armoured warboss.

Ah well.

>> No.42557578

fucking nice bro

>> No.42557654


I don't want to rain on your parade, but I suppose he looks kinda wonky for a warboss.

The pose looks really stiff and artificial (not in the cyborg sense, mind you), and the piece of wall he's standing on looks unnatural as well, because it's parallel to the ground.

Also by hiding the face completely, you made it hard to make him able to be recognized as an ork. Sure, his body parts are all "mekanikal" and stuff, but I think the face is one of the most characteristically important parts of a mini, especially characters.
You shoulda put the mask on his crotch, find a good orky bosshead, cut of a half, repair it with gubbinz, so he has a face his puny enemies can remember.

It's an ok conversion I guess, but he lacks character.

>> No.42557672


It looks like the stuff clinged to the paint and pulled it into wrinkels.

got them sitting in a bucket of super clean now.

>> No.42557784


I totally forgot in >>42557654

What about you snip of the lower jaw of a boss head, and scratchbuild a mega terrifying cybork jaw, so he can literally munch skrap.
Maybe those spherical drill heads from ironclads, or mandibles out of powerklaw blades.

>> No.42557992

Since I know there's recasthammer guys here, I'd like to ask: How do you conduct the order from there? Reddit isn't being helpful, because I'm not sure if the old information is valid any longer.

Pls help.

>> No.42558093

Yeah I had a similar experience recently with Purity Seal on my deathwing knights. Went in looking crisp and vibrant, came out looking like washed out photocopies of cheap plastic toys that had been sitting in a storefront window for 10 years.

>> No.42558530


Yeah, you have to shake varnish intensely for like 10 minutes and then test it on something. A second coat could solve the problem due to the solvent, or brushing it with 96% alcohol depending on how bad the crystals are.

Both work by dissolving the top layer and allowing it to settle smooth.

>> No.42558597

Thanks, will give that a try or else it's into the bucket of cleaner with them.

>> No.42558793

Really want to finish basing these and start working on some hero units.

>> No.42558885

Oh good! feel the pain man

This is why i nowadays varnish with a brush

>> No.42558984

And hes more or less done, just gotta clean up a bit

>> No.42559448

>Never used a thing before

>Not testing it on one small bit

Its all on your own head mang

>> No.42559949

lol retard. enjoy strip + repaint ;-)

>> No.42559958

that sword handle is kinda wonky.

Does putting resin in hot water really work, for un/bending such problems, btw?

>> No.42559981

that's chinaman resin - it's pretty fucking fragile

>> No.42560035

Anybody know a decent fast way of painting DA marines? I've got alot to do and don't wanna spend all day on one marine.

>> No.42560079


>Does putting resin in hot water really work, for un/bending such problems, btw?

Aye, hair blower works aswell.

>> No.42560086

do it assembly line style.

>> No.42560094

Base caliban green
Wash nuln oil
Drybrush caliban green
Drybrush kabalite green
Drybrush warpstone glow
pic related.

>> No.42560110


That's literally how GW sells their Green Stuff. Or used to be at least. And there's no problem

>> No.42560141




>> No.42560161

fair enough.
what about as-expensive-as-gold high quality FW resin? My Grey Knights dreadnought has got some massive gap between the engine block and the back and I want to try bending the tubes to fit before I do something more drastic...

>> No.42560209

>what about as-expensive-as-gold high quality FW resin?

>> No.42560219

That's the point. The story goes that a lot of the time, you've to cut off the middle bit because it's cured.

That has been my experience also, but it's not like I buy the stuff every other week.

You mention GW like they are some sort of paragon of good doing and not-fucking-their-customers-in-the-ass...

>> No.42560253

2nd. needs ork face.

>> No.42560271

Oh shit man, I need to frame this! It's just... ha!
All it needs is a Chinaman portrayed like those anti-jew propaganda posters.

>> No.42560310

If it weren't night right now I'd post pics of how mine are coming along, but this was a few days ago at the warpstone glow phase

Base caliban green
nuln oil
tidy up with caliban green
broad highlight warpstone glow
edge highlight moot green

To be fair, it's not the fastest but it looks good enough.

>> No.42560334

How'd you order from chinaman? I'm >>42557992 and besides providing the catalog, reddit hasn't been of any help.

Could you tell me if they still use the same old email address?

>> No.42560346


Their hobby supplies usually are of great quality (except for the brushes) albeit hella overpriced.

>> No.42560357

>Does putting resin in hot water really work
Thats how i made him

>Bent right arm down
>Moved left arm and closed fingers
>Bent right leg forward and bent foot

I even closed his gaping maw a little bit

>> No.42560361

>(except for the brushes)
I fucking LOVE their new glaze brushes for detail painting

>> No.42560364

I really need something colourful to paint to take a break from all my drab colour schemes, any recommendations?

>> No.42560539


That is a lovely gold.

>> No.42560601

Please tell me the blues you are using?

>> No.42560611

Test wing for my drones. Came out pretty well, need to be a bit more careful on the gluing as there are a few bubbles and some scuffing.

>> No.42560637

It is hard to take a picture of decently, but it creates a sweet iridescent effect when it catches the light

>> No.42561006

Those look awesome mate.

Aside from the obligatory Drill your barrels, He does seem stiff,

Just finished these guys, nothing incredibly special.

>> No.42561034


That face is so much better than the official one it actually makes me angry.

>> No.42561036

Alright, so this is my latest project! A nice little starter force for the Cult Mechanicus, a playable force of around 750-850 points. This will very soon be joined by a box of Skitarii Rangers/Vanguards that will be split 50/50 to form up my 1000pts list.

So far I have managed to magnetize every option I wanted, I have fully based them, and also received my custom resin heads (top two pictures) for my Kastelan Robots. And despite what the picture shows I have also primed and custom-based every single model and magnetized option.

>> No.42561117


This is the furthest I have come with painting so far.
I'm aiming for a really weathered gray color, with added black and whites.
Fairly pleased with how the weathering came out, but I will have to fix those lenses. Will paint them up like old school gems instead of using the airbrush for this one.

>> No.42561212

Looks like a Strogg.

>> No.42561446

Aw shit are those some wolverines? I love seeing DZC posted.

>> No.42561471

Looking awesome dude. May I suggest adding some yellow tufts to the base to make it pop a bit?

>> No.42561667


Do a skin tone, then a light spray of white/very light grey, such that it's still patchy/see through, then matte spray for the powdery look?

>> No.42561867


Didn't know what a Strogg was until now, but I guess you're right, he does look like one!


Will do something like pic related on an already finished model. I have a winter-themed battlemat so all my models have similar bases no matter the army.

>> No.42562099

I keep forgetting to remind myself how shit the GW white is when I buy paint.
You have to thin the stuff down immediately before it manages to consume your mini whole.

>> No.42562185

Think FW are designing for the Estonian military now, pic related

>> No.42562452

i like an idea, but it looks odd. I look at the model, then on the wings, it doen't look like a whole.

>> No.42562534


Looks like GW to me. Just get a dude, mount the top of him on there and give him a big gun.

>> No.42562541

I'm getting SDE in a day or two.
Any tutorial to paint them? Done only 40k, and no exp with anime/chibi minis.

>> No.42562646

That looks fucking amazing. The transition of the blue parts, I assume that's done using an airbrush?

>> No.42562678

Yeah, got them on a whim. Love how easy they paint up, might grab a starter box soon

>> No.42562688

You will burn, heretic.

>> No.42562852

This thread needs moar Necrons.

>> No.42563224

So, rebased the last batch of 40 marines. Gonna add some few details, like grass tufts and stuff, and touch some things up here and there. But to large degree this means I'm done with one of the more tedious projects i've embarked on.

>> No.42563244

the last two batches, just so the point of tedium gets across

>> No.42563266


You're pretty fucking insane Anon.

>> No.42563397

Incidentally, that's pretty much a full battle company + 2 squads of elites.... except BT dont have battle companies.... yeah....

>> No.42563759


where can I get those heads dude?

>> No.42563813


It reminded me of this, or the rapier

>> No.42564048

I agree. I will do some more work to fit them more into the model when I attach the properly. Bear in mind that is just a test and is only tacked on. I will probably green stuff the join and paint along the leading edge up to a point to smooth the transition.

Finished my tests, now making a bunch of wings en masse. It looks a bit trippy atm.

>> No.42564066

Do these guys need a lighter highlight? Going for a "sunless troglodyte" kind of vibe, but not sure if they feel finished.

>> No.42564116

they look good to me anon. I'd maybe suggest a tiny tiny tiny wash of purple in the blue

>> No.42564209

Thanks! All-over, or do you think it should be targeted?

>> No.42564245

If the shading was purple I'd have suggested using blue for veins to make the skin look even more transparent.
Not sure how I'd do that with blue skin though. Tongues are red, so I'd assume blood is red too.

Not him, but always very carefully controlled.

>> No.42564255

These are awesome.

>> No.42564492

like this
very controlled maybe in the deepest blue areas. But very lightly as well

>> No.42564685

Andrea blue, from Vallejo's model color. Then I mix with violet or jade green and white
The body was done with an airbrush, but the head and neck aren't

>> No.42564817


"I couldn't advise it, sir"

>> No.42564944

I'd take an old power scythe, a chainsword, probably some fantasy Dark Elf or High Elf for the body and possibly head, and then get an appropriate sword.

>> No.42564999

If anyone's interested, here's the nurgle army as it stands. Really want to finish those monks by Saturday.

>> No.42565031

Those fly things are bloody disgusting. I love it.

Looking good anon

>> No.42565120

How would one paint the tau scheme from the cover of the upcoming White Dwarf ?
Really digging it

>> No.42565671

Use a hair dryer instead, it won't catch fire and it can become really elastic
You need to heat it properly, hot water won't do it unless you like boil it

>> No.42565890

kinda similar to how the whole warboss Grukk and the mek Mogrok dynamic played out.

>> No.42566493


>> No.42566622

<-- photo intentionally not resized, you've been warned!

Welcome to my hell, WIP.

>> No.42566626

>andrea blue
my nigga
that and vermillion are my favorite vallejo colors

>> No.42566714

>image search vallejo andrea blue to see the exact colour
>get image of naked blue elf ass

>> No.42566731

3rd, he's just kind of unrecognizable as an ork without an orky face
even dreds have decorations evoking orky faces
it's so ubiquitous that I just can't see anything without big jaws, snaggleteeth and pug noses as an ork
and I suspect the orks he leads would feel the same way

>> No.42566742


I remember this guy. I called him a retard then and I'll call you a retard now.

You can replace that stupid guide with 2-3 steps.

1. Spray prime acrylic silver.
2. Paint with Tamiya Clear [insert color of choice]

Done. Add a black or brown wash in between those steps if you want to color modulate or whatever, or add a colored glaze or wash afterwards.

>> No.42566783

Check around the molding looks like there are two small items over there

>> No.42566834

I actually found the piece I'd dropped, then placed a larger piece on the floor for the picture. The fact that you didn't see it kinda proves my point :)

>> No.42566869

Is it that grey spot spot between the wooden stool?

>> No.42566894

>it wasn't the girl from reboot

>> No.42567223

I'm trying to glue some forgeworld resin pieces to some plastic parts and the glue doesn't stick. Krazy glue craft type. Am I using the wrong glue?

I scrubbed all the parts in soap and water using a oscillating tooth brush so everything should be pretty clean.

>> No.42567252


>> No.42567508

Depends on what kind of pieces exactly you're doing. What are you trying to glue and how is it not sticking?

Some options though:
1) You might just not be letting it long enough to cure. Once the pieces are together set it aside for at least a few hours before you touch it again. 24 hours is better to let it sit and cure properly.
2) Using your hobby knife, just cuts some little grooves into the surface where the join is supposed to be. This should give a glue a little bit better grip.
3) Pin it.
4) If all else fails, try using some 2 part epoxy adhesive.

>> No.42568036


I'm so sorry, you sure told me what's what. Your opinion is super important and I'll get right on that, on your schedule!

Old thread archived and I'll post whatever I want whenever I feel like it.

>> No.42568090


Just mix sand into the paint. People like Rob Hawkins do that. Cat litter can work but I've found it comes off way too easily and has a kinda weird texture. I have used mortar as well but obviously it makes it heavy as hell which can be a pro or a con depending on you.

Getting a water spray bottle and mixing some pva glue into the water and spritzing it down works wonders for durability.

>> No.42568175


Look into the Army Painter basing stuff. I have some of the ivy they make and it's awesome. Would be pricey for dozens of bases though. OTOH good luck finding aquarium plants of a size that doesn't look stupid-huge. This sort of stuff is best used as an accent on every X number of bases and on characters and such. Also herbs like the other anon said. And get fall leaves and crunch that shit up as small as desired. ALSO, FREE.

>> No.42568176

It is a world eater space marine torso and the plastic arms from the chaos space marine kit. Keeps sliding off.

These guys.

>> No.42568273


A second coat does help sometimes. But really anon when have you ever heard "do one heavy coat" in reference to any kind of paint or primer or sealant? It's like lifting with your back.

You should probably get some Testor's matte sealer and carefully spray them down. It basically has baby powder or beeswax in it and knocks down the shine a LOT. I can turn gloss nail polish into flat finish with it. Make sure you are not someplace too dry or too humid (dry is actually worse). Otherwise you just make a different kind of mess. But the shit is like $4 a can so what do you have to lose?

>> No.42568338


They really printed this?

>> No.42568453

likely needs a bit more washing, fw mould release can keep paint from sticking too so if glue won't stick, it definitely needs a bath

>> No.42568464


It's due to the age. Brand new, there is no excuse for that "hard middle" thing but it's inevitable the longer it sits there. I have had the privilege of spending a couple days with Kev Walker (one of the original GW sculptors, made the orks). He takes that shit, slices off a piece of each color roughly the same size, and CHEWS IT LIKE GUM until it's mixed and the right consistency. He swears that's the only way to really get it right for sculpting and that everyone does it. He is not the only pro sculptor I have seen do this.

All your miniatures were made with spit, guys.

>> No.42568753


You have achieved a level of power few ever do, though. Every nerd who looks at a wargame imagines playing with those painted armies in the books. You are one of the elite few who actually fucking made it instead of twaddling around with a handful of figures from 10 sources and never getting it done.

It is the eternal struggle of the wargamer and you have climbed that precipice, above the heads of the masses. The God-Emperor would smile upon you if he wasn't a lie and a rotting corpse who has forsaken humanity.

>> No.42568797


I wouldn't fuck with your winning formula. I also imagine they have a little more contrast indoors with a little less light that may be washing them out some in the picture perhaps.

>> No.42568839


Kickass. Also nice trips. The number of nurgle multiplied thrice, three times. You are truly blessed.

>> No.42568889

Are you holding the pieces together long enough for the glue to set? Also keep in mind the more glue you stick on the longer it takes to set.

Either way, arms are really easy to pin if it's still an issue.

>> No.42568942


Try using some sorta rough sandpaper to give it some tooth for the glue to bond to. You may have actually made it so smooth that it "torques" loose for lack of a better explanation. make sure the surfaces fit completely together with a flat surface to flat surface because a little bump or distortion on one side with fuck it all up like it's all balancing on a ball or something. And yeah definitely score it with a blade like the guy said.

>> No.42569616


Just FYI, you can reply to more than one post at a time.

>> No.42570475

just finished painting my first miniature, i think he turned out a good 6.5/10. gona try the skeleton with the sword and shield next

now I've been going around to hobby stores in my city buying up minis and ive got about 40 of them sitting on a table beside me at the moment but they are all really nice and I'm starting to realize my skill level isn't as high as i thought it would be.

can anyone recommend a simple reaper bones humanoid that i can start with after i move off skeletons?

>> No.42570751


>> No.42570817


>> No.42571388

>get the bits for my victoria chem dog command squad
>realize i didnt order any arms
>no more money for hobby for at least a month
fuck fuck fuckity fuck
someone please JDAM my house, i dont want to be alive

>> No.42571448


You kinda fell flat on your face tipping a fedora at my responding to an angry edgelord. :)

>>42569616 Yeah I just kinda fucked it up there. My bad.

>> No.42571478

That's not even what "tips fedora" means.

>> No.42571502

But the true question is, what model is it?

>> No.42573074


Sometimes it is. Other times, it's Indiana Jones.

>> No.42573084

WIP of my boba fett for imperial assault. Close to finished, but I'm not sure where to go from here.

>> No.42573250

Old chibi heroes from SDX. I am 3 heroes away from having a fully painted original Dragonback Peaks boxed game.

Annoyingly, one is a druid who has a seperate shapeshift form with a large based model. ;_;

>> No.42573258


>> No.42573262

I remember you, I posted my own drone after yours the last time!

HOLY FUCK those wings look good.
I can see how >>42562452
thinks it looks out of place, but having the same model in my hands right now, I'm kinda jealous.
However, if one is willing to experiment a bit and wants to tie in the iridescent effect to the model, you can mix metal medium with a fitting green like tourqois, and also a few drops of black wash, to produce a tone similar to these glistening shit flies. With this color, do a quick glaze of the chitinous armor, and the effect blends in more.

But I like how it looks now.

>> No.42573296

a square of this between two plasticard doorways woul make an awesome chaos portal terrain piece.

>> No.42573300


Looks good, I completly fucked up my paladin miniature. The relief is super mellow and my primer was just a smidge too thick.

>> No.42573378


The best part is that it perfectly describes another product that was inferior to their pewter alloy...FINECAST.

>> No.42573469

I literally was doing a mental check list for finecast while reading this.

>> No.42573572


>> No.42573669


Yeah it's a blessing and a curse. I wanted to take a break from grimdarkness and do something light and these are perfect for that. Being made of large smooth areas means you either end up using traditional techniques (which doesn't work out so well) or have to learn new ways to work with those large smooth areas.

>> No.42573716


>> No.42573790


I feel ya. Forced me to learn a bit about hair and NMM.

Pic is where my experimentation lead me. Don't mind the spacemarine.

>> No.42573940

so I was thinking about doing some sororitas conversions modifying dark eldar bodies with skitarri helmets but am unsure about scale can someone post some minis to help me figure it out?

>> No.42573970

Goddamn, can you even imagine giving so much of a shit about a company that you don't work for that you would report on a recaster

>> No.42574021

so /tg/ today I painted for the first time, I will post my results, protip they are terrible

>> No.42574038

well, it's a necron

not great, but not bad

>> No.42574044

there's a whole album of garbage there friend

>> No.42574094


Assuming that there are always reasons for counterfeits, copies, piracy and recasting, GW should start to recognize the reasons and work on em, instead of trying to get the beneficiary of said copies to do the legal work for them.
If people start to use copies, accepting flaws in the product, maybe the oh so hyped quality of GW's product isn't the selling point after all?
How many people buy exactly one model to put on a vignette and in a display case?

I don't defend piracy here; it's a bad thing to steal copyrighted property and use it for personal profit.
But I also don't defend ignorant and naive corporation philosophies, blaming your customers or using them to do your legal work.

On a final thought: I always wondered why GW is so quick to blame and legally charge.
They could do quite a quick penny by licensing some of the things they fight against.
Chapter Master comes to my mind here...

>> No.42574214


>GW licensing

Just a head's up, but GW has been very lax with their licensing lately. You can pretty much just call 'em up and ask for a deal. If your project is interesting and not a direct competition for exclusive licensing on another already greenlit project, your chances are pretty good.

They take a noticeable part of the income though, which stacks with Steam and all that jazz. It's one of the reason why their games are mostly mobile and with aggressive monetization.

>> No.42574230

is it an album with more images of necrons that are of a similar level to the posted one?

>> No.42574267

that one is my best, the rest are definitely worse

>> No.42574275


From the look of it, it's that one necron, each picture posted twice, in worsening lighting conditions.

>> No.42574281


We always try to play with fully painted armies. With WYSIWYG in effect we also make it harder for players to power play over the editions (as OP things tends to be obsolete over the years). By "encouraging" players with a rule called hate the gray, enables all units firing/close combat units thats not fully painted to gain the benefit of hatred upon the foe, and also makes you think twice to put down an un-finished product.

How does other game groups play it? Is it much un-painted units and such? Sure, when we where like 12, we also played with cardboard boxes as terrain, and all gray armies, but sooner or later you need to grow up and realize you're in this hobby because you like all the aspects of it.

>> No.42574294

Sounds true.
I'm no fan of mobile games.
I'd love to see another full scale Warhammer 40k game though. No MMORPG bullshit, no shoddy fps, rather another Dawn of War, or maybe even a game with another faction focus.

Regarding the new Mad Max game, an orky sandbox freeroamer would be awesome as fuck.
Maybe a Gorkamorka Simulator, where you pimp up your ride and gather a handful of boys to shoot things up...

Anyway, to keep on topic, I just finished 4 cultists, 2 stormboys and may just finish an AoBR Waaaghboss in a few mins.
Let's see what's next.

>> No.42574305

Hate the gray sounds awesome tbh

>> No.42574329


I love stuff like "Hate the gray"

My painting studio offers the "Gray Plastic sea initiative" where if you send us your unpainted army and a picture of your friends laughing at your unpainted toy soldiers, we give you a 10 to 20% discount depending on how funny the picture was.

>> No.42574452

Jetfemseer progress
Re-sculpted the fire on the sabre, painted it with the blade. Highlighted the pony tails further and finished off the gems on the farseer. Now the black bits to go

>> No.42574741


That's a neat house rule but in the larger wargaming world, I'd estimate from decades of Gen Con and other large conventions not to mention endless seas of minis I've seen at smaller cons and just in game shops, that for every miniature purchased, I'd be shocked if more than 5% ever end up fully painted and in an army.

Ask people here (this has already come up in fact). How many people have gamed for years and have a reasonable percentage of their shit painted vs. in boxes, half-assembled, primed, half-painted, or a handful of lovingly converted guys you overreached on then never painted a playable army around?

Myself, I don't every buy minis because I love the mini...I only buy minis I will definitely game with. That narrows it down to only a million dollars of shit rather than infinite amounts of it I could be buying, maybe (probably not) finishing up, then putting on a shelf forever. Instead I get one I like and will play with.

But then, I also own only a fraction of the minis I've painted because most of them I have given away or sold or painted for hire. I have done that as a full-time job and do not recommend it.

>> No.42574759


You do realise that despite sculpted on breasts, it's the fire that is truly tits?

>> No.42574817


>> No.42575126

Keep it up guys, you're doing well and everything is looking great.

I've hit "the wall" at the moment and have no desire and and cannot be bothered to paint anything. If I do, I get bored and it's sloppy and terrible.

You can do it!

>> No.42575163

Nurgle's number is 7

>> No.42575239

I feel ya, I lost a lot of interest when I took it upon myself to paint some terrain. But I guess it's my fault for trying white.

>> No.42575336


Cheer up guys!
What's the matter for the wall?
Maybe you are stuck with one army and can't stand the models anymore?
Try to do some awesome scratch built mission objectives or terrain! Helped me with my wall.

And what's with you, terrain guy?
Tell us about the project. What kind of white terrain?

>> No.42575400

I got a box of bitz from ebay, and i found these 2 guys.

I`m no expert on imperials. Where are they from? I`ve never seen that pose

>> No.42575441


I paint for the stress relief after work (EMT)

So, I have a ton of half finished stuff and things I get passionate about... but then it slows to a crawl

>> No.42575530

Maybe door gunners?

>> No.42575552

Ha, medic buddy!
Do you also get the strongest urge to paint during your shift or get awesome ideas for conversions, and once you get back home all the impetus is gone? Shit sucks.

I force myself to start painting, and it usually works, after a few minutes I'm fully into it.

>> No.42575569


Yeah, half painting things and storing them for "some day" works a lot better for me too. I'm never happy with what I finish.

>> No.42575583

Gunners from the Valkyrie

>> No.42575614


>> No.42575628


These would make a good base for some pilots or soldiers relaxing at base camp in between missions.

>> No.42575657

>Do you also get the strongest urge to paint during your shift or get awesome ideas for conversions, and once you get back home all the impetus is gone? Shit sucks.

This is literally me

>I force myself to start painting, and it usually works, after a few minutes I'm fully into it.

I've been on fire for... probably months, but in the last 2 weeks it's been fucking painful, just no fire in my belly for it at the moment...

>> No.42575672

>relaxing in the Imperial Guard

>> No.42575787


>>Being an EMT giving awesome ideas for conversions....

>>too dark?

>> No.42575828


>plays AdMech (artificial limbs everywhere), Orks (frontier full body surgery speshulists), Nurgle (blood, puss, diseases for everybody!)

Holy fuck, you're right...

>> No.42575836

It's an abandoned Mechanicus factory floor for Necromunda, pic related. The idea is to paint the walls white, with half the bottom floor walls being a dull green, like in some real factories. Then, the idea is to do hairspray weathering on everything, and add a bunch of debree

>> No.42575854


I'm the original EMT poster...

HAve admech and Nurgle armies

oh shit

>> No.42575919

First of all, this shit looks good as fuck!

The hairspray idea sounds good, but also like a pain in the ass on a piece that big.

If the factory is abandoned, there is no sense in doing a perfect white paintjob in the first place!

What I do for old smudgey white surfaces:

Coat the area in your favorite silver metallic.
Can be of the shiny kind, with bigger pigments, doesn't matter here.
Get an off white (like sky grey or something), and dilute it heavily with wather.
I'm not starting with the "like milk" bullshit, but is has to be runny and not crummy and thick like straight out of the pot.
Now start painting the whole silver surface.
Doesn't cover all the metallics? Good.
Do another grey coat after this one, this time less diluted, and try to get it down a little bit streaky.

After drying pick your favourite brown, black, green and rust wash, maybe thin it down with water.
Go crazy on the surface, do a bit of blending, try to get all the nails, bolts and screws.

If the result looks like an orc barfed on it, great job.

You can now tidy it up with a slight drybrush of grey again, to pick out edges and the like, or paint in a few streaks of silver.

>> No.42576137

I was thinking of covering all the walls with brown and black washes, sporadically, and the floor has already been hit with a heavy black wash. Then after the rust has been brushed forth from the hairspray, I'll do rusty streaks down the paint from the metal.

>> No.42576144

Oh, and I should add that that's an old picture. I'll get a new one when I get home tonight.

>> No.42576284

Looking great.

>> No.42576372


Most fluff has them taking shifts being heavy drinkers, gamblers and womanizers while on leave. Pilots share technological secrets in between runs, since the official training lacks all the knowledge of many marks of fighter ships. This allows veteran pilots to do things to ships that aren't supposed to be possible in a standard configuration.

Humans wouldn't live long under constant stress anyway.

>> No.42576596

Are vallejo paints any good? I got the metal medium one myself but dunno what to think of it as its a bit of a special one.

>> No.42576700

Vallejo paints are awesome, with a few exceptions, mainly colors that suck anyway, like white and red.

>> No.42576793

I'm actually interrsted in red :v, is it worse or equal to gw's stuff ?(as i have not used else up to now)

>> No.42576895

Hard to describe...
I tested several vallejo reds; mostly bright and vibrant ones to paint ork speedfreakz with.
However, the consistency is very... sludgy.
You need to shake em for a long time.
There is also a very small window for right consistency when diluting em.

I mainly keep em for mixing with other colors, or small jobs like edge highlighting, which works ok.
Vallejo Terracotta seems to be a pretty good match when painting the standard AdMech darker red they use on some units, like sicarians and the onager's legs.

I use GW's Mephiston red as a base for everything, sometimes Evil Sunz scarlet.

>> No.42577584

>Most fluff has them taking shifts being heavy drinkers, gamblers and womanizers while on leave.

Sounds like a lot of real soldiers.

>> No.42577731


The heavy range is great. Reds and whites aren't bad, but like most reds and whites they require layering to not look like shit.

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