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[ERROR] No.39344399 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Old one is auto-saging

Finished up with basecoats and washes

now to do highlights and clean it up

Trying to figure out how to do gold freehand on the loincloth

>> No.39344431

Fine tip gold sharpies / gold brush pens / etc.

Fine scripting/edging/whatever work always goes better with pens. Just be careful about washing over it - or you'll wash it off. A quick brush over of clear coat should hold it fine though.

>> No.39345350

Working on some Perry Hessians. Any other historicalfags here?

>> No.39345553

Galli-anon, where art thou?

>> No.39345635

autocannon conversion for my iron warriors

>> No.39345762

Just bought some termies. Converted the flamer to a sound cannon and added some SW and FW bits to my chaos lord.

>> No.39345821

Might I recommend the HH autocannons. I'm working on a havoc conversion using them instead and am loving how it's turned out so far. It's also cheaper than most bit sites it turns out.

>> No.39345834

I painted my first Ranger, the leader of the group. Does it look allright?

also, ignore the small moldline on the antennae, it has since been fixed and removed

>> No.39345881

I used spare bits to make this one, I just need to make another cannon so I dunno if I should spend for the whole package

>> No.39346019

>Blue robes
Looks nice anon, are you planning on basing him?

>> No.39346284

I tried NMM and gems for the first time.

>> No.39346325

I'd love to paint up some historical miniatures, but no one in my city/flgs plays and historical wargames. so I would basically just be doing it for shits and giggles, which isn't really enough to motivate me at this point.

>> No.39346335

I'm back wasting your time.
Orange was a good idea

>> No.39346380

Put them on 25mm bases and play them as IG.

>> No.39346660

Well, that's exactly what I'm doing them for. There are one or two clubs a few miles from me but I'm kinda anxious to go along to one of their things. Just painting them for the sake of it atm.

Making progress on the basecoats. Still extremely messy at the moment.

>> No.39346822


bretty gud

>> No.39346922


The picture is a bit too dark to really make out the details and the quality isn't great either.

The orange looks really good with this scheme, but I can't make it if you did gem effects or not.

At any rate, you should take your base color green and the smallest detail brush you can find to clean up those highlights a bit. The edge highlights are supposed to be really thin, but if you go over them with the original green, maybe mixed with glaze medium if you have it, you can create sharp highlights with a better transition.

At any rate, this is WIP, you're here to improve and we're glad to help anyone who is really trying to improve so come back any time with anything you're unsure about.

>> No.39346955


The detail on them is good though, I'm sure you'll make them look great.

>> No.39347022

finished my nob with triple-linked shoota-slugga-shoota

>> No.39347051

Alright, so make sure they're straight unlike the one on the leg, then go over them again thinly?
Should i use a needle or something super thin? as my thinnest brush is not so great.
Thanks a lot.

>> No.39347054

What base coat should I paint for Gunmetal and gold?

>> No.39347148

Paint his eyes.

>> No.39347204

I've been working on making The Hanging Tree from Malifaux. I've got to add a ton more wire around the tree as well as additional smaller branches.

>> No.39347385

Have you watched the link I posted. The guy can paint.

>> No.39347401

holy fuck you are going hard

>> No.39347513

It's looking to be over 18" tall. And once the metal wire is done it'll have a silicone skin with a bunch of bark texturing.

>> No.39347531

That's a lot of fucking wire.

>> No.39347690

Well it's a huge tree in the stories. But I've got a 1/2 mile coil of this wire and I've barely made a dent in it. So I'm thinking of making more then one. Oh and I've got Jack Daw and The Hanged models on the way to decorate the branches.

>> No.39347718

Yeah yeah painting little mandolls, whatever

That is a nice classic Gamecube, bro.

>> No.39347949


A small brush would be ideal. I usually get throwaway synthetic ones from my local model train store for a dollar a piece.

Pic very related.

>> No.39348024

I was thinking of going for Dark Blue robes on mine (Kantor Blue to be precise), so I am glad to see what they look like in a lighter shade. They look a lot nicer in blue than I expected.

>> No.39348049

Dang, now there are two others with blue robes... That's what I get for being a slowpoke. Looking nice, though.
Maybe I should go with orange after all, then.

>> No.39348114

Actually it doesn't look like a Mechanicus at all with those blue robes. But it would be an awesome model for an Inquisitorial warband. Looks like the kind of acolyte the Ordo hereticus would use

>> No.39348185

I have to ask. Where did you get the templates for those?

>> No.39348214

Silver tones apply fine over black.

Gold depends on how rich of a color you want. A muted brass or bronze? Over black will work.
A richer, true gold? Then you want a medium or light brown base coat.

>> No.39348380

I drew it. Here's an empty one.

>> No.39348419

>Those cables between his legs

How does he walk?

>> No.39348451

Just started collecting Warmachine!! Going for a brownish ivory base look.

>> No.39348491

Nifty! Do you have any others?

>> No.39348508

Still have some detail to paint but i am liking it so far

>> No.39348573

I have no idea. He's a cyborg. But those are on the models.

I did this one for Necrons earlier.

>> No.39348586

Looks okay. Eyes are a bit off though. The whites should be a lot smaller.

>> No.39348625

Damn, that was huge... Please save it as jpg if you do anything with it.

>> No.39348750

i'd change the head on the first one somehow. at the moment it makes his torso look super short. other than that, looking good.

>> No.39348814


Got any for guardsmen?

>> No.39348835

posting again because im a nigger
considering doing a red cog pattern around the outside of the robes

>> No.39349038

If I wanted to take apart a metal model without risking damaging bits by just ripping them off, does anyone know how I might go about doing that?

>> No.39349168


>> No.39349334

Loving that blue. I'm painting mine purple and copper; house Vernius, with a high emphasis on Dunecrawlers.

>> No.39349337

This is begging for a caption like
>Nigger, what the fuck?

Good luck, risking ruining white is scary.

Put it in the freezer. This kills the superglue.

>> No.39349619

it looks a little more like old weathered bone than ivory, but still pretty damn cool, man.

>> No.39349649

I lol'd at the giant angry anime eyes, but otherwise this guy klooks good. the highlighting could be a bit crisper, but still way better than I could do.

>> No.39349815

>Put it in the freezer. This kills the superglue.
Really? That's neat. Why does it do that?

>> No.39349889

It'll cause the glue to get brittle, as well as will have the plastic constrict slightly.

>> No.39350073

You can also put your metal model in acetone, the glue turns soft and easy to pull off.

>> No.39350286

Alright, I'm going to stop base coating and try to get near perfection with these guys
Im so bad at vehicles, I'm going to die painting 2 raiders, a venom and a ravager

>> No.39350309

>Got 40 of these with Bolters, Shotguns, and a Plasma gun, plus a Cyber Mastiff today for 40$

>> No.39350418

Forgot to add, I'm also painting them for a neat campaign at my FLGS, gonna have them hunting down a Planetary Governor.

>> No.39350471

I tried to do something similar(not as large) and it turned into crap, do you know of any good tutorial?

>> No.39350588

Nope, sorry.

>> No.39350652

>mfw I use Gorilla Super Glue
>they put little microscopic resin beads in it so that it resists extreme heat and cold by being more flexible


>> No.39350678


You should have just left his eyes as a wash. Would have looked a lot better since it looks like the paint job and wash you did on the face look great.

>> No.39351667

So I have been playing a very short while and just learned about conversions today. Here is my first shot at a conversion, The Dognought for Space Wolves. It's nothing too crazy, but it makes me think of that Russian project that was supposed to use dog heads to pilot mechs from the mid 1900s.

Sorry my paint is shit. I am still learning.

>> No.39351693

How fast does that stuff dry? I'm almost out of glue, and I'm sick of having to hold pieces in gravity-defying positions.

>> No.39352333

You asked to see a couple of these so here you go. This guy is done, more or less.

>> No.39352367

And this guy I'm still working on. Along with his squad.

Your dudes are coming along nice! I really like the green glow!

>> No.39352544

Holy shit, are those Adeptus Arbites? You got them for a steal if they are.

>> No.39352580

Current progress on my Epidemius. Doubling him as a scroreboard for my bloodbowl team

>> No.39352638

How do I into sculpting? I want to make my own keeper of secrets (using pic related for inspiration), but have never sculpted anything that large.
Have any anons made something that large before? What did you use to bulk out the armature or did you just do the whole thing out of greenstuff?
Anybody know good places to find tutorials and tips?
You cats are usually knowledgeable about all kinds of shit, so this seemed like the best place to ask.

>> No.39352872

I can't help it i always paint the eyes, but one day i will become the greatest eye painter in the world.

Its much better than my first attempt

>> No.39352939

>Doubling him as a scoreboard for my bloodbowl team
Fucking top tier idea anon, can't wait to see him finished.

>> No.39353528

I know how you feel.

>> No.39354347

I made my version of a Wolf Scout out of a pile of jank. I figured a cyclopean walker would be a good scout. Now I just need to decide how to paint the rest of it.

>> No.39354551

> I have gazed into the warp, and it has gazed back

>> No.39354706

How do I highlight fast without it being shitty or too wide?

>> No.39354728

What kit are these bits from

>> No.39354747

I dry brush with silver, does weathering and highlight well enough.

>> No.39354837


>all that wire...

Anon, how the fuck are your fingers not falling off right now? They must be pretty goddamn sore.

>> No.39354859

empire flagellant flails

>> No.39354871

Every time I paint with a small brush I get this little dry point at the tip that fucks me up. What do?

>> No.39354915


Either your brush doesn't have enough bristles to have a thick reservoir or your paint is too thick. Try thinning with drying retarder or even just a thinning medium.

>> No.39354979

Will more water do it well enough? I'm using a GW detail brush

>> No.39354989

I get the same, im using a citadel fine detail I got 10 years ago
Chances are its like what this guy said >>39354915 and you need to buy a new brush

I just pick it off whenever I see it, I cant be fucked to get a new brush

>> No.39354993


Yeah more water should work. Not as well though.

>> No.39355061

I have a brand new citadel detail. Maybe it needs to be broken in or something?
Alright I'll try more water for now then. Thanks

>> No.39355097

sorry for the long delay, but yes, I am. I think I will give him a dirt-base of sorts.

I agree with you there, I very much got the same vibes form some of the weapons.

Mould-line cleaning on the rangers is hard tho'.

those look good dude, but I don't think I'm the guy you think I am.
I know there's another dude that makes them blue, he posted in the last thread before I did, so I suspect it might be him.

>> No.39355198

>I have a brand new citadel detail. Maybe it needs to be broken in or something?

This is your problem. Breaking it in will only make it worse as you lose bristles to wear or crookedness forcing you to trim them.

>> No.39355360

I don't get what you're pointing at. Not enough bristles?

>> No.39355844

I just received a bunch of ebay minis and they have all been based, is there an easy way to strip the bases of all the dirt or will I have to buy new bases?

>> No.39355858

Would having some Kriegers mixed in with Cadian models look weird?
Like maybe even just using the gas mask heads for veterans, or heavy weapon teams or something?

>> No.39355880

Here. What's up?

>> No.39355881


Same way you strip paint.

>> No.39355902


Yes that would look weird and completely unfluffy.

You should build the Cadians and DKoK separately, then use the models to represent a major engagement where a regiment of Cadians and a regiment of DKoK got mixed together in the chaos of battle.

Or you can do a coalition army with completely segregated squads that represent Cadians and DKoK fighting alongside each other.

>> No.39355950

thanks, guess ill just dump it all in the metho bowl

>> No.39356092

Doing eyes is more about creating a dot as to where they should be looking, and trying to understand how eyes actually move.

First step is looking in a mirror and learning how your eyes move.

Second step is actually looking at your eye in a variety of open/close positions. The iris is a rather large circle that consumes a bit less that 1/2 the relative area of the visible eye, so you should work around this concept. This is true for those of a different ethnicity as well, but changes according to how much of the full circle you see.

>> No.39356180

A very simple tip that works wonders is to make sure you pre-wet your brush with water; make sure the brush has been thoroughly wet, 'paint' out a line or two of the water, and then go to collect some paint to use on the brush. Make sure you collect the paint towards the first third, and avoid getting paint higher up. Also, make sure that you're rinsing the brush every so often.

Significantly finer detail brushes, those of size 0 and under, will face this problem more so than larger brushes. This is simply because of the belly. Also, certain types of hair, whether synthetic or not, will sometimes just not cooperate with the paint, or were not formed properly and cause the problem for little reason. Using a paint retarder (something that slows paint dry time) will often work, but not always recommended.

>> No.39356468


Is that really a tip? Do people really just dip a bone dry brush into their thinned paint and start slathering it on the model? That will fuck up bristles so hard.

>> No.39356520

Done with alpha's head

>I'm not a robot

>> No.39356545

Hair texture

>> No.39356560

looks kinda like that arms dealer guy from the fifth element

>> No.39356584


You too?! It's the hair. That guy is like the posterboy for that haircut, even though it's becoming popular these days as a cyberpunk female haircut.

>> No.39356740

Yes. I've had to tell people to not be retarded on a number of occasions. It's hard for retards to not be retarded sometimes.

It also more of a reminder more often than not. I know a few people who don't do that as a first step, and I cringe hard.

>> No.39356774

>start stripping minis
>toothbrush melts and falls apart
>gloves disintegrate
Now ive got a bowl of turpentine filled with minis, no brush and no gloves
What do?

>> No.39356792

I hope those minis are metal...

>> No.39356849

of course, I prefer working with metal models

>> No.39356926

use your hands anon don't be a bitch

>> No.39356965


in b4 he comes back and types out a post with his arm stumps talking about how his hands fell off.

>> No.39356989

as long as hes using running water when hes rinsing off the gunk it can't hurt it you its an irritant, its harmful if ingested

>> No.39357063


>> No.39357119

Been working on this. So far so good.

>> No.39357129


Rather than painting eyes, you should focus on realizing eyes aren't that big and people have eyelids. Seriously bruh, eyes are the hardest thing to make look good, especially if you're trying to use a brush for the pupil instead of something like a micron ink pen.

Pic related, micron ink pen eyes. Sorry for the bad picture but it was late and I didn't have my daylight lamp with me to take better pictures. The only non-yellow light in the house I could find was in the fridge.

I am by no means an expert. I've painted some dark vengeance marines who I couldn't finish due to life interfering. This is a black templar feral world scout WIP.

>> No.39357134

Ain't chu never heard of tongs? Go to wallyworld or CVS, or dollar tree, wallgreens.fuck if you can't get tongs within an hour you are a lazy fuck.

>> No.39357143

Huuunng those treads

>> No.39357161

Glad you like them. They were a colossal pain in the ass.

>> No.39357497

How to highlight flat surfaces (gun panels, helmets). Just go around edges?

>> No.39357556

Last time i stripped stuff I got fed up with the broken gloves and just did the unit with my hands

It felt like someone was pulling all the hairs on my fingers out at once

I cant see how tongs would be better than gloves hands

>> No.39357587

why aren't you cleaning the base and gluing them onto a bigger base first?

>> No.39357598

I don't play any historical games, but i recently ordered some cold soviets from assault group and from eureka miniatures. probably going to paint them as syrian army.

>> No.39357633

I saw the start of this in another thread.
Coming along nicely anon. Shit will be epic.

Pretty much.

>> No.39357647

Don't use turps. It doesn't work that well anyway.

Methylated spirits all the fucking way.

>> No.39357650

Anyone have any ideas for a siege wrecker castellax? been thinking a seismic hammer off an ironclad dread but that might be a bit weird looking, my other idea was several siege drills from centurion assault squad in flace of the regular CLAMPS

>> No.39357679

>cold soviets

i meant cold war soviets obviously

still not entirely sure how to paint them.

>> No.39357693

I just put mine in the microwave for about 2 mintues

>> No.39357714

Fuck yeah

>> No.39357798


Lightly touch the side of your brush against the sharp corners.

>> No.39357806

JayZus. Shit's amazing.

>> No.39358027

Pliers, pliers, pliers. So far the tree has been 14 gauge wire, since I couldn't find my old spool I picked up some 17 gauge today. I now have two 1/2 mile spools. So many trees to be made.

I don't know for ya, I use gorilla super glue since I can't get GF9 anymore but I haven't had to take anything apart other then a few cuts with a fresh exact-o blade.

I've done a ton of trees like this before, this is the largest by far, I would recommend getting a lot of pictures of real trees while you work on trees, try using some pre-coiled bunches to help build the base. I have this picture of a previous work.

>> No.39358036

Just finished.

>> No.39358048

fixed sized.

>> No.39358049

I made a raptor!

>> No.39358054

that really looks awesome

>> No.39358061


>> No.39358072

highlights look a little thick as does your OSL from the eyes
other than that its decent, i like the colour scheme

>> No.39358088

thanks mang.
Definitely don't have the right brushes for the job but i do what I can. Pretty casual mode.

>> No.39358308

Nice! I like the reds.

>> No.39358343

Looking good anon

>> No.39358366

I'm jelly of that gamecube, wish mine hadn't broken in a move five years ago.

>> No.39358448


Did you see >>39347949 ? That alone would improve them so much.

>> No.39358478


You can still get dolphin and play all the games with a controller only now in HD. Very easy to set up too.

>tfw replaying Wind Waker in HD

>> No.39358497

Has anyone in here experience with warlord games plastic boxes?

I don't intent to play (yet). I just wanted to build some interesting historical miniatures.
I thought about buying a box of romans, some hoplites and maybe one or two boxes of ww2 soldiers.

Are there differences in quality/value? (older vs newer boxes). Anything outstanding great?
Which ones should i pick?

>> No.39358665

I imagine, if you ask here you'll get more answers

>> No.39358677


Nice to see some like minded Adepts.

>> No.39358719


>> No.39358763


Nicely done, seems that you got the white on the robes sullied by a different colour, you might want to put another thin layer over and neaten up the patterning, unless its the lighting then nvm.

>> No.39358791

Is there a good adapter for the gamecube controller to a usb? Because that would be great. I've been wanting to go through Tales of Symphonia again for years.

>> No.39358813


Nope, but an xbox 360 controller works for every emulator there is. All nintendo handhelds, PS1, PS2, gamecube, wii, basically everything you can use a controller for. You can usually get a brand new one for under 30 bucks. Don't skimp out and buy a knock off though, they use different drivers and the original 360 is the most used controller on the planet. Even linux has built in support most of the time.

>> No.39359122

I'm going to buy one today

>> No.39359169


>> No.39359175

Commissar I've painted for a buddy.

>> No.39359186

GW definitely needs to restyle CSMs and Havocs.
Those kit suck so much.

Nice job, but when you start with suck a shitty kit there is only so much you can do.

>> No.39359244


Pic is blurry but it'll look great from a distance at least.

>> No.39359287

>Those kit suck so much.
Dunno I think they're okay. The guy with the tusks was my all time favorite CSM helmet.

>> No.39359301

Bummer, I haven't been really into consoles since the GC since all the controllers felt like shit to me.

>> No.39359303

It looks nice :)

>> No.39359329


Really? The 360 controller is one of the nicest controllers I've ever owned.

>> No.39359334


>> No.39359341

Never felt comfortable with the 360 controller.
I've got tiny baby hands though.

>> No.39359343


>> No.39359346

>Only one weapon for each type
>Shorter legs respect normal CSM
>The shittiest champion torso/head ever
>Fixed shoulder on the arm.
>More expensive than Devastators

That kit suck.
How am i suppose to make a kit of 4 lascannons? Or 4 Autocannons?
Buying 4 squads? Fuck them.

Thanks the Gods for FW and their kits.

>> No.39359357

>tfw playing Batman Arkham games and my index fingers on the sholder buttons would regularly cramp up because I have big hands

>> No.39359369

To be fair it took GW a while before they started selling the Heavy Weapons for loyalists as blisters too.
I don't think Havocs ever were very popular either.
At least loyalists HW could be used in tactical squads as well (later even command squads).

>> No.39359374

Between us we could have normal people hands.

>> No.39359421

The problem is that most of CSM kits are 20 years old. 20 YEARS.

I have no idea of what they are waiting for to restyle them. The new boxes are awesome for the quality and quantity of bitz.

And it's CSMs we are talking about, it's one of the major and most played factions in the game. New Raptors are cool for example.
Why not make CSMs and Havocs while you where there?

>> No.39359465

I see your Havocs and raise you a Wartrak.

GW doesn't really operate on logic.
Instead we get a limited edition (!) plastic Termi Captain for SM, while they keep selling the FineCast version of the classic metal mini.

>> No.39359481

Come to think of it there already have been two limited edition plastic Terminator Character models for Space Marines...

>> No.39359738

For those that are having trouble with eyes, do them first before the face, go back over the eyelid with the skin basecoat.

>> No.39359861

I raise you a Gorkamorka Special Character from 91'
Oh wait I mean a "Finely detailed muli-part metal Deffkopta"

>> No.39359896

>Gorkamorka Special Character
Was that from Digganob? I never had the expansion.

Also did they update the pilot along the way? Looks a lot more modern in style to the old orks.

>> No.39359920

Brian Nelson did the metal models. He basically invented the 'modern style' as you call it, because it was his style.

>> No.39360026

Ah that's right there are two dudes painting skittle men blue. Well both of em look good to me, though I am a novice! This was originally for the dude who is hand painting the trim on the robes.

>> No.39360069

well my hands are sore and I've come close to poking an eye out but making some progress on this damn tree.

>> No.39360073

Anon, Gorkamorka came out in 1997, the expansion was around a year later.

Granted orks still desperately need new fast attack sculpts.

>> No.39360160

Stick something on the end of those pipes, the last thing you want to do is lose an eye.

>> No.39360204

Yeah hit 1 insted of 7

>> No.39360212

That's fucking rad. What kind of wire is that?

>> No.39360223

Soped painted two of my "sanguinary priests"

>> No.39360240

There are plenty of old models.
But CSMs are the basic unit of a major faction.

>> No.39360253

Damn son, I tried making some trees using 100% wire armatures, found it easier to just use a stout twig for the trunk and drill holes for wire branches, securing the wire with craft glue and then Selley's quick dry hard putty.

But anyway, I found some stuff called Bob's Modelling Goo, it is mostlikely some sort of repackaged air drying latexy rubbery stuff but holy shit is it great for coating wire tree armatures,

>> No.39360255

>implying that any non-Imperial faction is "major" in the twisted vision of GW

>> No.39360276

I see nothing wrong with the CSM Troops kit tbh. It's not even been that long since it has been updated last with the new Champion and other bits.

>> No.39360279

Most of them have blunted ends, once the wire's done they'll be covered with silicone so not much to worry.

so far 14 gauge electric fence wire. once there's enough of that then it will be 17 gauge.

I end up using silicone caulking for covering it. lets you get some nice texture in on the bark and you can still position the branches once it dries.

>> No.39360311

>The problem is that most of CSM kits are 20 years old. 20 YEARS.
Weren't the plastics updated sometime between 3 and 3.5? The CSM kit was then recut with 4E, The Bezerker kit was probably pretty early though, and what has happened with the other hybrid kits? There's so many resin 3rd party parts there's not much point using the official components.

Also wtf captcha:
>Select all pub below. A sample image is on the right.
It's a coffee

>> No.39360339

Don't know if it's because the painting is recent but that model looks pretty detailed for something that is 20 something years old.

>> No.39360395

So who wants to clean these for me?
Ill pay you in @[email protected] rare OOP minis

>> No.39360414

I wouldn't suggest starting out on something that big, as there's quite a lot of potential to fuck up.

If you've already worked with greenstuff a lot on other smaller projects you might be ok, but otherwise I'd practise on smaller stuff first.

Buy some wire to make the armature, use something cheaper than GS for the base of the model, milliput can work well.

Use GS for all the detail, although sculpting big stuff is a lot harder, you do have more room for adding detail so in a sense it can be easier to make it look nice.

>> No.39360417

I think you need more acetone..... and a better camera.

>> No.39360429

Defkopta was a really standout model during the gorkamorka era, if you compare it to the plastics it's obvious.

>> No.39360472

Oh ok.

>> No.39360598

Just finished the next two Tau in my small contingent I have hoped to use for some Kill-team games. Just need some basing and they're ready to put the imperials in their place!

>> No.39360750

>I end up using silicone caulking for covering it.
Yeah, that makes sense to use. I'll give that a crack for the next batch.

>> No.39360817

>go out of my way to get the thickest, strongest gloves I could find
>after 10 minutes of cleaning they start to fall apart
Im stuck, I dont get it

Its not like you need to see whats in the bowl, it was only a quick snap anyway
Unless you want me to put the bowl in a lightbox and use a thousand dollar camera

>> No.39360897

>and they're ready to put the imperials in their place!
Wish I had a picture of IG who climb over mountains of dead Tau.

Either way nice clean painting. Personally I think the skin is a bit too blue, I'd highlight that with a more greyish tone to take the saturation down a notch. Nice models.

>> No.39361096 [SPOILER] 

>Personally I think the skin is a bit too blue

So I shouldn't use these guys as a reference? :O

>> No.39361110

I never said anything about 1000 dollar camera or lightbox I'd just like to be able to tell what is in the bowl, I think there's some sister of battle models but I'm only saying hat because the one chainsword sticking out in the bottom left looks familiar.

>> No.39361129

Definitely some Repentia in there...

>> No.39361193

I know this is /wip/, but I need to spread the word.

>> No.39361239

GW really should fire every single person involved in their video marketing stuff.
It's a horrible waste of time and poorly done.

>> No.39361289

>GW really should fire every single person involved in their marketing stuff.

>> No.39361301

Fair enough.

>> No.39361341

Thank you. Miliput was the kind of answer I was looking for. I've sculpted with greenstuff but I figured there had to be a better way to build up the insides of the model without wasting all my greenstuff.
Have a pic to thank you for your wisdom.

>> No.39361346

A 28mm Warlord makes no fucking sense. You'd need a table the size of a fucking GW store to play on to make it remotely sensible, but then again, just play Epic if you want titans.

In the meanwhile, started my dorfs, and got inspired by the runes in the rulebook. I've made this for the one that makes the warmachine counts as being in hard cover. Not much, but eh, whatever. I have three boxes of Italeri Napoleonic Wars Acessories, and I won't use all artillery emplacements anyways, and even if I would, it's be fukken easy/cheap to scratchbuild some. The crew and cannon are not glued to the base, so I can use it with other warmachines too if I want to.

>> No.39361371

right now, the cannon has a very limited fire radius

and fuck Im tired of clicking bread captcha pics

>> No.39361419

Well, the drawback of artillery emplacements. Better protected, but limited firing arc, thus mainly used for defense, where they knew the direction the enemy was coming from. For the sake of using the logic of Warhammer, we can assume that there are a couple of combat engineer dorfs quickly rebuilding emplacements when needed, but seeing how cannons are not really moved in the duration of the game, it's fine.

>> No.39361432

I still want Emperor class titan model

>> No.39361455

Im not familiar with Fantasy rules, I was just wondering, but if you cant move them anyway, it doesnt matter, yeah.

great now I have to click sushi

I still want the green one in this pic, since '98.
Found two on ebay, made a wrong bid on the first and the second had missing parts.
Im sad.

>> No.39361482

You can move them, but their fuckhueg range and possibly putting them on a hill eliminates the need to move it. Also, if they move, they cannot fire, so...

>> No.39361499

What colour would look the best for a 30k thousand son?

>> No.39361518


Even >>>/vr/ doesn't like you.

>> No.39361535

I mean tone of red

>> No.39361542

>Get that zogging light outta me eyes!

>> No.39361606

nice blood ravens, I liek the second best

>> No.39361674


This. My microwave is only 750 watts so it takes 3 minutes

>> No.39361701

Im not quite sure, since I dont have a finished second fex, but I feel like the brighter bown rim looks better

>> No.39361769

The one on the left seems better than the one on the right, although that may just be the lighting.

>> No.39362202

First zerker of 10 im doing, thoughts? please flame the fuck out of me so i can git gudder

>> No.39362268

Needs highlights on the armor, and the metallic paint on the legs seems a bit thick.

>> No.39362999

Congratulations , a great deal

>> No.39363189

I love the ambition.

>> No.39363294

Thin your paints a tkny bit more I'd say, and watch that white on the shoulders. i can see some of the black underneath. Remember what our Lord says on thick and thin layers.

>> No.39363593

Missing washes/highligts for some depth. Thin your paints.

The pose is kind of weird. Looks off-balance, and there is no way you would turn your torso away from the dicrection you are running like that, unless you were thoroughly surprised/distracted. In addition to this, while running you will usually put forward the arm opposite to the leg you put forward, unless he is holding his gun forward constantly, in which case he should probably be looking where he's aiming.

Also, the chain att the bottom of the axe seems to be unconcerned with gravity. It does work insofar as he is running; it's just something to keep in mind.

>> No.39363817

20 bolter sisters and 10 repentia

>> No.39363891

How'd you build up the whites? What did you use, colorwise? Gimme paintlist and process.

>> No.39363946

It's grey.

>> No.39364009

Great. What greys did you use? Can I have a process or tutorial or explanation?

>> No.39364028

Still, very slowly, making some face crosses on some of my marines to get a bit diversity in their look, pic related was the first prototype

>> No.39364059


Put on some dark grey, then paint on some slightly less dark grey, followed by a slightly less dark grey, followed by a slightly less dark grey. Repeat until you want to claw your eyes out and beseech the dark gods to tear your wretched soul to shreds, then layer on some pure white for the really bright spots.

>> No.39364077


<----- All I see is this

>> No.39364115

another two. It's kinda extremely simple (because there's not much too it) but at the same time kinda hard (because my brush control leaves much to be desired)

>> No.39364123


Muh arbites.

Strapped for cash but I always wanted to use arbites as part of my growing inquisition army.

>> No.39364138


>> No.39364205


>> No.39364211


Gotta clean up the sides of those shoulder crosses bruh, white splotches all over them.

>> No.39364220

he looks like he is just staring off into the unknowable.

>> No.39364238


>> No.39364255


Nice like that guy from the WD with his massive spess armies.

>> No.39364534

Yeah, been lazy as fuck with some of the pads. It's unbecoming of me

>> No.39364573

Bought Dark Vengeance with a friend, first cultist I've started, apologies for phone shots. Applied a few basecoats but I'm still waiting on Mechanicus Standard Grey. Feedback greatly appreciated

>> No.39364614


>> No.39364655

Still deciding on a painting scheme for my plastic spacedudes.
Any input would be nice!

Too bad the painting template doesn't include a cape...

>> No.39364674

beautiful, the face really pops

>> No.39364734


Make one yourself. It's fun. I'm working on one whenever I'm not distracted by something new and shiny.

>> No.39364765

>activate it

>> No.39364771

Top row middle marine matches your sisters the best, if you want them to match that is.

>> No.39364883

That was what i was thinking about, but i'm not so sure if it'd look boring if fielded together with the amount of models on 40k tables these days.

Also, i probably should've numbered the marines.

>> No.39364937

The brighter brown does look way better

>> No.39365258

For your original scheme just use the same colour that the Celestial Lions have.

>> No.39365272

I personally dont recommend using spackle.

>> No.39365321

.... I don't..... I use silicone caulking.....

>> No.39365373


Is that white patterning on the robe freehand? Cause holy shit, super jealous

>> No.39365374

I think there is too much red in the brighter shade. That's why I like the darker tone better here.

>> No.39365449

Swap orange for copper. Give all helmetless marines big mustaches and muttonchops.
Have the servitors serve tea and crumpets.
Your chapter master is armed with a power umbrella know.
You know got the most elegan/tg/entlemen of the industrial era inside power armor. Congrats!

>> No.39365658

Looks like Bestial Brown to me.

>> No.39365809


Needs more crafted cocks.

>> No.39365851

>nurglish cocks
I've spent enough time on /b/ to know I don't want to see that here.

>> No.39365879

Bolt Action here

>> No.39365945



Bolt Action heer, I should say

>> No.39366072


So i should look into metallics?

>> No.39366082

Cold War Warrior here, ready to douse the table with gasoline. Still looking for the lighter though.

>> No.39366088

Epidemius sounds like Epididemus or "spunk tubes" as you'd call them. Balls.

>> No.39366098

Well, if they are cold soviets, you should probably go with snow camo.

>> No.39366142

Or fur, for that matter.

>> No.39366201


>> No.39366221

>So i should look into metallics?
If it's done well it can look very good. Give it a try.

>> No.39366263


Keep your fetishes in the bedroom and off the tabletop, Rover.

>> No.39366292

What do you guys suggest for stripping metal minis?

>> No.39366326


More paint, it contains stuff to keep it soft after all.

>> No.39366339

Salt, it causes the paint to harden and crack.

>> No.39366374

Any UK fat guys got any experience with this glue?


Wanna switch from Army Painter as the nozzle application keeps pissing me off and getting clogged up, so I'm looking for brush application.

>> No.39366383

Fucking acid.

>> No.39366417

I'm making some good progress on my tree, I dug out a power drill and twisting up wire like crazy.

magnetized metal money... that way you don't have to try to get it to say in the garterbelt. I actually use acetone for metal models.

>> No.39366453

This. Remove the bases and other plastic parts before you throw them in though. Acetone will dissolve that stuff.
Also softens/breaks superglue bonds.

>> No.39366568

Trying to get in to making a 40k board. I'm about to order a 4x4 (the biggest I'm allowed to have at home... and no I'm not a minor, I'm married!) gaming mat, and have salvaged about 6 buildings this size to give it a go.

Whats next is to make more sandbags, about 3 more on the roof, and some at the base. This will be followed by some barbwire at the base and then its of to painting. After this is done I will create shattered glass effect with transparent paper and glass paint (making church´ish windows), hopes this will be a cool effect to a building this size.

Anyways, tips and ideas are as always nice!

>> No.39366662

>the biggest I'm allowed to have
make a folding 8x4 or 6x4 table. Bit more work, but having the extra table space is important.

>> No.39366708

Thanks anon!

>> No.39367010


To be fair, its a expansion on an already existing Warmahordes/Infinity table that I have owned for quite a while. To make yet another 6x4 would only be an initiation to sleep on the sofa for the next couple of years (not to mention, not being able to FIT a sofa anymore... so sleep on the gaming table that is!).

Update (no pics, sorry). Finished the sandbags on top, and started doing a lane down at the bottom. Coming along nice, though I do believe my green stuff will run out before the first building is complete! And Ill need to order more mini-barbwire as well.

>> No.39367027

Me to, my SS.

>> No.39367052 [SPOILER] 

And my actual work in progress

>> No.39367143


>dat KT

Definitely near the top, if not next, on my purchase list. So damn sexy, even if I'm betting it's little use on the table?

>> No.39367146

There's a 1/35th sandbag kit (tamiya I think) that might save you some green stuff time and money, there are only two different bags so it takes a bit of creativity to get them to stack the way you want but it's a nice alternative.

>> No.39367180

For you. Wip Chimera.

>> No.39367195


Heh, see you got the ostfront set too last month. Nice little figures I thought, got them for my heer.

>> No.39367377

Clean you keyboard man. Don't you hear its pain?

>> No.39367419

Just realised that...Minotaurs actually look pretty lame in standard armor. Monocolor schemes aren't my thing.

>> No.39367441

Nigga you still there? I have a more detailed computer armor painter if you want.

>> No.39367442

These threads need more terrain...come on some of you must be making something, right?

>> No.39367450

Can't feedback much with such blurry pics.

>> No.39367495

Well done.
but dem moldlines man. Sigismund would slap your ass so hard for that you'd turn penitent.

>> No.39367567

There. Hope that helps.

>> No.39367735

Buy agrax earthshade and wash the weapons and clothes and it'll look pretty good.

>> No.39367861

>Agrax Earthshade

Why did you have to remind me that it's been 1 week since Duncan has blessed us.

>> No.39367888

>Start watching some batreps
>Realize that I don't want to play SM
>Already have a 1500 point list built and painted
>Want to play Death Korp
Welp. Time to go broke forever, any decent paint scheme ideas that aren't BLACK?

>> No.39367921

Why don't you just sell your list and play Death Korp.

>> No.39367979

>Selling my list
Nah, what will probably happen is I'll use my Angels of Vengeance as an army to play against interested friends with.

>> No.39368008

You're a good guy.

>> No.39368062

Thanks anon.

Luckily I get about ~3000 dollars back from my college this year so I can afford to splurge on a Death Korp army.

Maybe even work on the Necrons-with-LEDs thing I wanted to do.

>> No.39368086

Wonder if anyone's made a greentext of having sex with Duncan similar to that one about Matt Easton.

>> No.39368215

>"Im going to shove my thinned downed cock to go deep into your unwashed asshole until you squirt out Blood For The Blood God and coat my dick in Agrax Earthshade" Cried Duncan as he penetrated my anus, only using a pot of Nuln Oil as lubricant.

>> No.39368281

He's not done yet, but I was trying to do that thing wih the blood on the axe. How's he coming along? Any tips?

>> No.39368347

Why the hell do people in these threads keep implying
>skiitari robes can only be red

This was never the case, apparently you can't into the lore. Red is a prominent color for obvious reasons but look in your codex, it's right there. I like the look of Ryza and those fags are orange.

>> No.39368409

Looks bretty good so far and where you're going with that axe might turn out cool. I hope you're planning on layering that white though, although maybe you did and the picture quality aint showing it.

>> No.39368556


>D'aww, who's a good boy! Who's a good boy! Does Lassy want the stick? Does lassy want stick?! Get the stick girl, get the stick!
>*Throws stick into group of enemy soldiers*

>> No.39368680


Yes, i like this.
So all of your infantry that you're doing for now done? or all this being done at the same time.

>> No.39368697


How the Psyker comin'?

>> No.39368700

dem primary white assassin's creed mofuckas

>> No.39368768

I've had epidemitis or however it's called. when the spunk tube gets slightly twisted or infected by bacteria.
Shit hurts like a motherfucker..

Anyway, here is my Epidimus. Tallyman of Nurgle, Scorekeeper of the Pusbag Sackers.
I still suck at images. probably because I have no lightbox yet.

>> No.39368804

So is the idea that the other team don't want to touch them and let you score?
Because it's working

>> No.39368812


Waiting on one of my guitarfag friends to buy new strings and give me their old ones, so I can use them for Valkyrie wreckage.

>> No.39368941


Nurgle teams get foul appearance: when throwing a block against a player with this rule roll a d6, on a 1 the blocking player refuse to touch them.
So, yes.
Making skin flaps to slap onto the score board. tiny magnets inside.

>> No.39369099


>Making skin flaps to slap onto the score board. tiny magnets inside.

Are they all facing the right way? :P

>> No.39369144

Hilarious, no. I painted both sides instead.

>> No.39370130


my US troops in action

>> No.39370192

Do y'all sometimes go back to strip entire units from your earlier painting days? I'm sitting here with a small cadre of Tau from when I started like 6 years ago and... it hurts to look at.

From tabletop view, they look perfectly fine but when you get even remotely close it's like a spastic kindergartener spunked Vomit Brown all over them.

I still have plenty of other shit to paint from scratch though. Should I bother doing them now or leaving repaints until I have nothing else to paint so I create more work?

Or should I even give a shit at all?

>> No.39370273

It's bothering you, so strip them.

>> No.39370382

It is, yes but not so much that I'm dying to strip them. I could leave them for the very last and keep strips/repaints for when I have nothing left to paint.

Just wondering what people feel with theirs. I know some would leave them as is because it's like a memento or visual example of how far your painting's gotten. The terrible paintjobs become like a nostalgia thing.

>> No.39370390

I don't think I'll ever use it in a game, but I just had to have one for my collection
It's paint, dried on, not dust. It'd be a bitch to clean.
Looking good man!

>> No.39370402

is that a troll behind the church?

>> No.39370415

Anyone know what's a good Turqoise for this paint scheme I'm going to be killing myself with?

GW has an Edge paint the looks about right, but I'm not sure how these new GeeDub paints are supposed to work and if it'll look good being used as a full-body paint.

On top of that I haven't really bought any paints from any other brands and don't know what's on offer.

>> No.39370437

Doesn't matter to what extent it's bothering you, just that it is. Strip them now so you don't have to later on, and when time comes to paint them up, whenever that is, you can just go straight into it.

If you're in this hobby for the same reason most people in this thread are, it's because you want your army to look good. Why ruin that for "nostalgia". Fix em.

>> No.39370495

Truth be told I am much more into the fluff/listbuilding/playing part of the hobby but you DO have a great point. Thank you for the input, food for thought.

>> No.39370707

>What do you guys suggest for stripping metal minis?

If you can't get pure methylene chloride, try this stuff. Just remember to wear gloves!

>> No.39371139


>> No.39371252

If this thread 404s I'll repost
Should I put a highlight on the edge highlight of moot green? Want them to stick out more

>> No.39371267

Another guy

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