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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.39298435 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Starting one up since the old one reached the bump limit and is about dead. Post things you've just finished or are working on.

My Skitarii just arrived today, thought I'd see how some heads from the kit would look on a scion, deciding if I want a unique helmet for the sergeant.

>> No.39298760

>> No.39298766


>> No.39298769


>> No.39298788

I got some poorly treated chaos warriors from eBay. They were already assembled, mould lines still on, mostly painted red, so I was limited in what I could do to model them as 40k (For example, no greaves). Backpacks cast (very roughly) using you mark and milliput.

>> No.39298892


oh ma gawd, its beautiful!
I knew why I took the scions for my Iron Hands because they already look really "techie", but the scion heads fit perfectly!

i feel you bro, my scions have been in similar condition. Even tho your CSM are too colorful for my taste, the technical execution is perfect. The conversions are simple yet fitting really well. If I'd play CSM, I'd do the same, definitely looks way better and more "evil" than the generic CSM models.

Made small progress with my count-as-scouts-scions, mostly backpack-related.
Also I think my pictures getting better, still fiddling with that...

>> No.39298917

Also, my current conversion-project on hold:

Master Of The Forge with Conversion Beamer on Bike. Mostly ForgeWorld stuff. Holes will be stuffed with MagicSculp, wires will be added, various clean up jobs will be done.

>> No.39298965

>Using Scions for the Chainveil

Are you me?

>> No.39299319

In the end, we are all connected with the omnissiah anyway, brother.

I mean who's to blame if our scouts look like these static blobs of trash?

>> No.39299706

So, as I said a day or two ago, I got a Thanatar from someone who didn't know it was recast, but the model is pretty fucking shit. I built it because they kept insisting that i do so, and I didn't want to make them feel like a complete retard.

So, bearing in mind that I can't scrap this thing for terrain, I'm thinking the best way to salvage the model is to scrape off every part of the cast that's beginning to break/miscast, and paint it as battle-damaged? or does someone else have a better idea?

Image dump of potato pics incoming

>> No.39299724

These parts just didn't go together at points.

there isn't much glue residue left over, but there were strange lumps on the model I tried to scrape. (still scraping)

>> No.39299785

Dark Mechanicus? Put some flesh here and there, a rune or two, a daemonic face on the head and boom, posessed.

>> No.39299871

Ammo belt was actually shattered when I got it into like 6 chunks. this is the best I could repair it.

>> No.39299884

the mortar's holder was completely shattered, so i re-built one from scratch out of magnets so it's removable.

I'd prefer loyalist, because I'm not a dirty heretic.

>> No.39299901


The places that the shell casings come out of (i'm not a /k/ommando, and it's a fake gun) are really fucked up. I might just scrape them off.

>> No.39299910

Doesn't look completely unsalvageable, just rough.

Going to be a lot of scraping and greenstuffing though. Battle damage is probably the way to go - some of the weird layery mold patterns (eg on the front of the right leg, and the crotch plate) almost beg to be turned into flaking paint. Other parts (like the rough edges on the right arm, and on the outside pieces of the knees) have horrible edges that again are sorta begging to be rusted up or given bullet damage.

So yeah, not unsalvageable. But it's going to be a lot of work. And take a lot of painting skill to make it really shine.

>> No.39299937

If you do loyalist, maybe you could use those fucked parts to justify a recomission of a broken machine, or one that has just be repaired eniugh to function, but barely. Slap a fuckton of purity seals on it to signify the priests did this to have a small hope that the thing will hold more than 3 seconds, a shitload of battle damage, even a missing part of armor on the leg, shoulder whatever, and you should be good.
But yeah, making it good as new would be a metric fuckton of work.

>> No.39300091

not sure if i like it or not picture is pretty crap as well

>> No.39300106

Add a touch of the original colour back to the shin and knee guards. Get some artists tape and line that badge right, it ruins a fairly solid paint job.

>> No.39300194

As the other guy said, the badge could be better, and I'm not really sure bright yellow and bright blue go well together.

>> No.39300219

yeah the badge i fucked up on pretty badly gonna repaint it tommorow. The blue looks a lot darker normally i think that's just the lighting

>> No.39300245

Coming along nicely

>> No.39300265

Any decent place to buy Nob Big Choppas that isn't E-Bay?

>> No.39300266

Made a bit of progress with the world eaters. Gradient on the blue didn't work out like I'd hoped. Now for the metallic bits...

>> No.39300311

________no Unless of course you want to order from bitzbarn and wait a month, then you really have no choice. I got mine off ebay for a dollar not including shipping.

>> No.39300369

why not ebay?

It's a good place.

>> No.39300373

Ejecator ports. I have no idea how the fuck that works, if you show me a pic of how its supposed to look I can think of something.

>> No.39300376

I love that dreadnought pose dude. That's so perfect for World Eaters.

>> No.39300382 [SPOILER] 

How generous are people usually in these threads

am I gonna make it?

>> No.39300390

Thin your paint a bit more.

Use painters tape for straight edges.

>> No.39300413

Shipping costs in the UK are pretty horrendous, plus a website dedicated to selling that style of bits will be much more desirable, as I don't have to pray that they have the part I want.

>> No.39300427

>Use painters tape for straight edges.
Or just scotch tape.
Vehicles are pretty hard to do.

>> No.39300429


>> No.39300439

Agree with what >>39300376 said.

I'm glad you took our advice and changed the pose, it looks brutal.

>> No.39300446

As a canadian who has to pay 6 dollars shipping for a space marine head, you're better of looking for a bunch of bits you need and buying them from one guy. Buy some nob choppaz, then throw in some spare bits for decorating or something, or more bodys. AOBR nobs can be bought for like 3-4 dollars a nob.

>> No.39300454





Wow, 3 different buy-it-now options.

>> No.39300467

That's great, I'm not American.

>> No.39300535

what country do you live in?


Hold up, i'll get you some british shit.

Also? international shipping shouldn't be that much.It's $12 us (like 8 gbp) to ship a small package from the US to kangaroo island, so an envelope should be cheap enough.

Fuck, worst case scenario, I could ship this to you from clapland.

>> No.39300544

Oh god why

>> No.39300569

Thanks anons
Which bit

I'm one of those 'likes playing more then painting types' anon, though I'm willing to learn

>> No.39300592


Anyways, it's $4 for that set to be shipped to the US, so staying in the UK should be cheaper.

I could ship a set of Big Choppas to the UK for $1 GBP.

So worst case scenario, grab a big lot of the things, (holy shit i love these ones)


and someone from america can ship it to you. I'll fucking do it if requested.

>> No.39300597

I have a few questions.

What kinds of paints do you all use? Are the citadel paints fine or should I look for something else?

What kind of brushes are recommended? Should I just go with really cheap ones and replace them as they wear out or a good set that will last a long time if cared for?

Should I post my minis for advice when I actually get around to building them?

>> No.39300622

I did these to go with my Death Korps, any suggestions apart from the obvious cleaning up?

>> No.39300624

don't you have any regional auction portal?
In poland we have allegro and olx, and ebay is around 1% of this market.

>> No.39300634

drill barrels?

>> No.39300644

added some more cables to this guy, still got to work on the ends of the cables, i'm not entirely sure what to do with them.
also I'm not sure about the lack of legs now, kind of feels like it's a bit too late to do anything about that though

>> No.39300738

>till got to work on the ends of the cables, i'm not entirely sure what to do with them
Corkscrew, beer opener, screwdriver
paint him red with this symbol on his back

>> No.39300739

I use citadel, they're a lot less shit than they usedifferent to be. Some use vallejo, and other brands.

Get good brushes and look after them hands down. Something like kolinsky or Windsor and Newton (I know fuck all about brushes though)

Yes definitely, if someone can give you tailored advice on what you can improve, developing techniques ect. You get better a lot quicker

>> No.39300760

well it's being painted red anyway so I might have to have that logo somewhere

>> No.39300848

I use both citadels and vallejo. My 1st paints were vallejo (because lower price) and I fell in love with their dropper bottles. When I bought cidatel paints, I realized that cover way better I like thier colours more, especially metalics. However thier pots are pain in ass to use for me. Atm I'm preparing to transwer my Citadels to dropper bottles and slowly get rid of vallejos.

If you're new to painting, paint with cheap brushes - because you'll fuck up your 1st ones before you learn how to take care of them. Then slowly go for natural sable brushes, like this anon recomended

And yeah, ask for advice, it helped me a lot when I was doing my minis.

>> No.39300886

Thanks. I am pretty new to painting since the last thing I painted was a helicopter model about 10 years ago.

How many paint colors does someone need on average for a mini?

>> No.39300904

Tournament minimum is 3.
Painter's pride however can go up to like, 20 depending on the model and your detailing levels.

>> No.39300933

>Citadel metallics
>Ever better then VGC much less V model air

What are you even doing?

>> No.39300939

>apart from the obvious cleaning up
I can't control myself I'm sorry

drill barrels
black paint on the vents on the melta barrel
shoes need work
extra paintwork on the coat on the middle one

>> No.39300960

>How many paint colors does someone need on average for a mini
all depends what model you're paiting.

I started with base colour + 2 lighter tones for every colour I needed for my army. I'm doing orks, so it was green, blue, bronze + black and white + metalics silver and gold + agrax earthshade (aka liquid talent) and nulin oil for shading. 15 paints. But! After my 1st models, I expanded my starter palette with red and yellow tones to make details like cables, checkers, small insignias etc.

So 1st of all, try to decide what models you're doing to do, and then pick color scheme you want them to have.

>> No.39301017

Huh never realized how many paints I would actually need. Hopefully my friend has the ones I will/might need and I can borrow from him. When I get off my ass and go visit I'll check.

>soon cadians. soon.

>> No.39301020

Yeah, overlooked that
Overlooked all of that crap too.
Not doing the shoes yet, I'm gonna mud them up when I get to basing.

>> No.39301037


I have 90 bases, tints and shades but I still run into needing colors I don't have all the time.

>> No.39301059


Basically, they are half attached (falling off) and transparent thin at the bottom on mine.

>> No.39301220

The model looks fine. Your crying too much.

>> No.39301238

Anon, these are beautiful. Did you put them on 32mm bases?

>> No.39301280

Great poses. And that Dread is fucking metal.

>> No.39301290

compared to the Forgeworld model, it looks like shit.

As an aside?

You know how an old car when it rusts has what appears to be lumpy growths?

I figure I could use that to disguise the more obvious miscasts, and combine that with a bunch of slash marks and dents in the model (take a switchblade to it and see)

How would I pant the rust growths?

>> No.39301319

Ah. That is a lot of money on paints.

>> No.39301614

I accidentally thinned too much my white paint while moving it from its pot to an empty bottle and now it's way too runny.

How to thick my paint?

>> No.39301653

don't thin in the bottle, other than that, maybe let it sit open for a few hours, and make sure to check on it

>> No.39301713

that second one looks perfect

>> No.39301715

Finally bought a stormraven friday night, almost done assembling, just need to do the turret up top

>> No.39301727

Have fun transporting that faggot

>> No.39301878

>that isnt ebay

>> No.39301931

Where do I get imperial ornamentations (purity seals, etc) for a Rhino I have? It's going to be built as incredibly worn down, and I want to cover it up in stuff.

>> No.39302263

Still dragging my feet with this skitarii alpha.

Yes I see the moldline on the arm... Now

>> No.39302316

Got a fake Fulgrim in the mail yesterday. The cast is surprisingly good considering my previous attempts with this particular seller, except for his face. His nose is gone, making him look like fucking michael jackson.

Debating whether to green stuff him a new shnauz or to leave it, since it does look kind of fitting for a corrupted fulgrim

>> No.39302369

finished a squad.

>> No.39302404


>> No.39302420

All kidding aside. Im just going magnetize the wings and the air intake that is behind the turret. It already fit in my case wingless so im not worried. Im also upgrading to a larger case before I get anymore models, maybe the new gw case. It holds a lot of stuff from what ive seen.

>> No.39302478


>> No.39302567


I do have 7 armies with various factions within them though. More paint is just convenient if you want to try something out.

>> No.39302598


Give him a long, smug looking nose

>> No.39302745

I vote for a Groucho Marx face.

>> No.39302793

Or you could give him a squidward nose

>> No.39302811

Like a big flaccid uncut dong.

>> No.39302908

Why not a Hitlerstache?

>> No.39302955

>/tg/ hivemind makes a conversion
Oh god

>> No.39303093

So a flaccid squidward nose, hitlerstache, groucho's glasses and cigar?

>> No.39303184

I'm trying out doing my bases first before gluing on the models. I will paint the models separately from the bases, do you have any recommendations for painting models this way? Some of them do not have enough of an area that is touching the base to drill their feet.. Could I glue on a piece of sprue or something and then hold the model by that?

>> No.39303187

Sounds like excess alright.

>> No.39303235

Hell naw, I'd vouch for that shit.

>> No.39303298

Use tape and prime to obtain superpower paint designs.

>> No.39303321

You start to grow your collection without even noticing it if you start to paint with even little bit more ambition than basic tabletop quality. First you buy basics, thats something like 10-20 pots, depending on the army. Then you realise you want some spot colours in there, thats 2-6 pots, depending what colours and how many shades you need. Then you suddenly want to try glazing and maybe add a tint to another colour with some washes, thats couple of pots of washes and some glazing medium. Then you realise how awesome mediums are and you have to have pot of lahmian medium and metallic medium. Then you want to try your hand on wet-on-wet-blending and after failure with too fast drying paints you invest in some retarder...

And then you realize your first pots are used up, go buy refills and snatch couple of pots of the new shiny technical paint... Its neverending, vicious cycle of acrylic adventure.

>> No.39303361

I do sincerely hope your next step is to drill the barrel out though.

second head is perfect

>> No.39303367

Thank you anons. I did put them on 32mm bases. I feel they look better that way.

Now its time to get them looking like actual world eaters...
>pic related
>inb4 blood splatter arguements

>> No.39303392

mold lines, sprue bits, and barrel. there's a thread of glue coming from the shoulder of the top one
and the antenna needs to be thinned

>> No.39303402


>> No.39303593


Use sticky tack, like blu-tack normally used for hanging posters on walls

>> No.39303598

Finally nearly finished these boyz. The last batch. Taken with crappy tablet camera so diddled the brightness a bit.

>> No.39303617


Your non-directional blood is giving me a headache

>> No.39303625

You did the splatters well. The one I like the lost is this one tho.

>> No.39303644

But you have a mold line on the mini

>> No.39303657

Hmm, that might do. I did think of that but I guess I was worried about it not holding properly. Will have to try it out, thanks.

>> No.39303663

Waiting for his head to come in, thoughts so far?

>> No.39303679

what's your recipe for the colors you use? They look fuckin' amazing!

>> No.39303682

>> No.39303761

Bottom pic is exactly what I was going to do for some Chaos renegade enforcers (aka. carapace vets).

>> No.39303891

Thank you anon. I just follow the forgeworld guide for the white (ceramite white with a wash of 'world eater wash' (equal amounts of lahmium medium, nuln oil, drakenhof nightshade and water) the blue is Vallejo model air blue, with a lighter shade (blue mixed with a touch of white) sprayed from above. Hope this helps anon.

>> No.39303915

More work on this thing from last night.

>> No.39303992

Syphilis seems fitting for a servant of Slaneesh.

>> No.39304006

My WIP -Praife the Sun. Arms and base in the image are not yet finished along with some small detailing on the body.

One of the nicer scratch-builts i've seen around.

Niiiice, working on a set myself as well

>> No.39304224

Er, my first WH model. Question, how do you guys get a matte finish? I put the transfers on using a little 'Ardcoat and then finished up with a couple of coats of what is supposed to be a matte varnish, but it actually seemed to add some shine.

The Cog is a BITCH to paint. I kinda gave up on this guy, might revisit. I finished his squad and started building Vanguard.

>> No.39304257

Totes stealing this theme.

>> No.39304288

As it has been for the last couple months, my WIP is getting the game room unfucked.
I found the copy of Troll from the Storm of chaos event.
turns out it had Blood crushers from before they were an official unit.
look at Dat fucking price man.

>> No.39304315

I use Testors Dullcote matte varnish.

>> No.39304366

Currently painting Tzeentch Beastmen, fucking scheme has 9 paints to it. Hate when that happens

>> No.39304376

Motherfucking glorious

>> No.39304409

Pretty slick man.

>> No.39304412

>Models assembled
>Mould lines removed
>Paint in hand
>Finally get good weather to prime
>My pin vise is in storage
>Can't drill barrels

>> No.39304457

Since I cant in to laser cutter (Been trying to convince the boss to buy one but so far no dice)
Would you consider running off one of those if I could pay materials and shipping?

>> No.39304482


How did you paint that scheme?
I must know.

>> No.39304517

Advice? I'm not buying specialty brush soap.
I am going to start taking "care" of my brushes though. Looks like I just need a "gentle" soap+conditioner formula? I use Bonner's Castille soap+conditioner on me already, I guess I can use that? Google says other people use it.

Do synthetics actually benefit from conditioner? I get why you need conditioner on natural hair brushes, it's hair which dries out with water based use, but does plastic work the same way as bristles?

>> No.39304524

Thank you sir. I'll give it a try.

>> No.39304539

>direct service


>> No.39304570

Looks great, but the eyes could be more pronounced. Red maybe?

>> No.39304599


I use panduro's matte medium. It's pretty great at a protective coat. Your model looks pretty good by the way, but I get the feeling that the brush you're using for small detail is too large.

>> No.39304679

Never actually got anything from Troll, some of the kitbash Guard units they made were awesome, but fuck I could buy three Cadian squads for the price of one of theirs.

>> No.39304724

Well, for any interested in their own solaire my thoughts and scheme is such:

•Like Solaire himself i decided to keep off any flourish or patterns. I see Solaire as a humble knight.
•Lordran isn't a kind land, so i've also decided to add lots of wear and tear.

•Knarloc Green for the shoulders and pauldrons
•White for... the white bits
•flashgits yellow and mephiston red for the weapon gradients.
•bronze, copper and warplock bronze for detials

Overall a very simple scheme. Thanks for the feedback, i'll be sure to post it once finished!

>> No.39304747

Thanks, and thanks for the tip! It's interesting you say that. I have both a detail and a fine detail brush, but I found myself using the slightly larger one more, even for tiny areas. The fine detail came with just a little fray to it but it was enough to get paint in places I didn't want it. I should probably be a bit more patient - if I was I probably would have returned it.

>> No.39304749

Congrats on not conforming to painting them red.

>> No.39304784

I'm not sure how useful it would be to you, it'd be a jumbled, disorganized pile of chipboard pieces.

Here's the papercraft model. You can print out the model, stick the template to plasticard and cut the components out that way.

>> No.39304805

Starting the track section.

>> No.39304823

Mine will be purple, because fucking techno-wizards!
....Whenever I finish unfucking this room.

Can give that a shot I suppose, Gods is plasticard expensive around here.
Having only one hobby shop sucks.

>> No.39304906


Thats an excuse, you just dont want to paint. It takes all of 5 seconds a model after its painted to go back and drill, then dab a bit of boltgun metal in the hole.

>> No.39305025

The colors are flat, try doing layers to build up a more natural look.

Also paint your thins.

>> No.39305106

Go to your local hardware store and buy one of those big FOR SALE signs. It's 1mm plasticard. I've used it for years.

More work on the track section.

>> No.39305154


For really small detail I tend to buy tiny 000 synthetics, they're great if you want to do really small stuff though even these are kinda large for eyes. If the brush can't form a tip it's not usable for small detail, so disposable synthetics are great for it.

>> No.39305156

Can anyone tell me if the new Russ hull top goes on the old Russ body? That is, can I take the top half of the Russ hull, and slap it onto an old Russ lower hull and tracks?

>> No.39305186

seeing this.. i have to ask myself... would getting 100+ new bases for my marines be worth it?

>> No.39305255

I forgot who, but one of those 3rd party bits makers is making 25mm to 32mm converters. It's like q ring you glue on a 25mm base that increases it's footprint to 32mm.

>> No.39305263

it doesn't, sorry

>> No.39305303

It's messy as hell, even with only base colours.

>> No.39305396

What's the problem?

>> No.39305397


What did you use as a base coat?
Also now I want to see a Lautrec and Oscar knight.

>> No.39305416

the new top is too small for the old russ's hole

>> No.39305450

You talking about the turret ring?

>> No.39305459


>> No.39305499

Well, one reason to mount the new hull top obviously is to mount new turret on the old tank.

>> No.39305513

this is mostly just me mucking about, but which one looks better?

>> No.39305526


>> No.39305570

Been doing some test schemes on my necrons, can't decide between them though.

What do you guys think?

Also yeah, the eyes are fucked up because they're only test models, I know, they also don't have arms and aren't based.

>> No.39305580

Urgh I know. So many boyz, so many lines. I always miss some and end up having to fix it some time later

>> No.39305589


2nd with green lenses

>> No.39305642

Finished my True Scale Marine.

>> No.39305670

Tracks. These are going to be a gigantic pain in the ass.

>> No.39305684

Very nice! I can dig it.

>> No.39305699

Nice! I'm gonna make true scale as well.

>> No.39305708

#1, if the arm and kneepad is like an indicator of veteran status or something similar. #2 is cool too.

>> No.39305801

Red knees are never good, ever. Too many blowjob jokes.

>> No.39305804

Those yellow black stripes.. please remove them it makes the model look shit. You are better of painting it black and adding a white decal

>> No.39305808

Doing Logan on his chariot for a friend, first time painting wolves, anything i can do on the wolves to make them pop more, going to add more lighter tones to the brown wolves face soon.

>> No.39305851

first or second

>> No.39305855

get a vajello paint set for WW2, pick Sovjet, US, or German and just buy a bottle of earthshade.. Viola ww2 themed Cadians for 25 bucks of paint

>> No.39305894


bumperin question

>> No.39305952

First time I have painted in about a year,

be gentle..

>> No.39305966



>> No.39305977

Throw a wash on those models and you'll be good to go. They lack depth, but are alright otherwise.

>> No.39305981

Don't forget to look at reference material.
I would say you either need a darker base colour, lighter highlights or a combination.

It also looks like you have a mold line in the center of the golden wolf head of the chariot..

>> No.39306002

I have put a nuln oil wash on the metallics, what others would I use?

>> No.39306016

more contrast on the wolf, right now it literally looks like its made of wood

>> No.39306046

Guy on ebay sells 100 of these for like 15 bucks including shipping.

>> No.39306050

thanks, I'll probably airbrush a lighter underbelly for them, the chariot head just is not fully built, so the angle made it look like it had not been trimmed. potato pics do that occasionally for me

>> No.39306059

A sepia wash on the white, then layer white on top of the wash. That will add depth to the cloth.

Do the same thing on the yellow.

Highlight the black parts with grey.

This video has some great tips:


>> No.39306068

How's my HWT ideas look, /wip/?

>> No.39306091

Rate my Grimgor

>> No.39306100


>> No.39306108

Gotcha, thanks again!

>> No.39306127


clever way to get around the tripod choke point.
I approve.
Paint is a tad thick there, skin could use a wash.

>> No.39306158

Lokks okay, but hard to tell from the pic.
Could use some stronger highlights. The blood needs work.

>> No.39306173

>Oscar Knight
Now i want to do this for my Warhound instead of this.

>> No.39306212

>Black Reaver Tarkus
>Havel the Warlord Titan

>> No.39306213

Thanks for feedback. I'm not good at painting, I just enjoy it. Couldn't make a better pic because I can't focus right with phone camera.

>> No.39306214

At least the Skitarii are better than those shitty and boring Scions.

>> No.39306255

>not just a captain with the special eternal warrior shield
doing it wrong

>> No.39306264

well, there goes all my money

>> No.39306373

What about one of my Ultramarines?

>> No.39306380

When I did my Thunderwolves I painted them with a lighter coat for their lower half, and made liberal use of drybrushing a lighter tone on all those ridges of fur. Like you said you're doing, use a lighter tone of brown for the snout and around the face details.

>Pic related, potato quality pic of my amateurly done TWC

>> No.39306497


Greetings, Galli-anon.

>> No.39306512


Loving the one with the orange shoulders.

>> No.39306586

Question: are these impaled beakie heads homemade, and if they're not, what kit do they come from? Furthermore, what are other kits contain impaled beakie heads? If I have to make my own impaled beakie heads, is it safe to use a power drill on the beakie heads, or is a hand drill my only option?

>> No.39306659


It takes like 15 seconds with a pinning drill, which gives you a lot more accuracy so is it really worth the risk to do it in 3?

>> No.39306783


Yeah, the blue and orange do go together pretty well. I was leaning towards combining the gold body with reddish-orange shoulders though, still not sure.

I've got the rest of a pack of Warriors to mess around with till I'm happy though.

>> No.39306824

Duly noted.

>> No.39306856

Greetings. I just aquired a wyvern, so I hope to add some more variety soon, but first: more infantry.
I was planning to do darcsen markings on abhumans and psykers, how's that sound?

>> No.39306894

Those are bits. But are also easily made.

The old metal Ork kits had them.

>> No.39306928

Shas'o? Is that you? I thought you only painted gold.

>> No.39306937


Paint it all banged-up and shit, but possessed. Paint some kind of sickly light emanating from the inside of shadows/crevices in the armor. Like some old corpse of battle crudely brought back to life.

>> No.39306989

That's a good case for learning to cast, friendnon.

>> No.39307068

It doesn't...

But what you can do is take that old and busted and just do some conversion on the barrel of the main gun. Its what I did when I had spare parts from making a Leeman Russ Executioner (that I did not mod to have where I could slot in the other guns, its easier to do on the basic russ kit though). I took the ol' battle cannon, chopped it super short, and then basically did some filing to where I could slot in the rest of a barrel for a Leeman Russ Punisher. One of my favorite tanks to use, plus I got the length pretty accurate, if not a tiny bit longer than a normal Punisher Gattling Cannon and almost looks better to me.

>> No.39307127

Interesting. Which old metal kits had them? I'll probably just grab a lot of beakie heads off bitz sites and make my own pointy sticks, but I'd like to know for the sake fo knowing anyways.

>> No.39307134

BRRRRT the tank.
Wish my local meta used more infantry so I could justify using mine.

>> No.39307347

got this done today. very happy with how it turned out

>> No.39307407

I bring mine all the time as anti air, doesn't always work but god do people rage when they're glanced to death because "lol 6's and 5's, I don't need to jink" and then the dice roll just slightly above average

>> No.39307424

amorphous blob monster? very nice.

>> No.39307486

That's a good shape, anon. I'm happy for you.

>> No.39307507

>It doesn't...

So is the top of the hull narrower, longer, not aligned with the tracks, or what?

Again, I'm not talking about the turret. The turret is getting replaced with the new one as well. I just came into possession of some old Russes and have some spare Russ turrets from the new kits, which I really like, and wondered if I can just replace the top hull with the new one, rather than start working with plasticard and shit to mount the new turrets on the old hull. Not to forget that the old hull doesn't have the turret in the middle of the tank, but a little to the side.

>> No.39307539

Got Wyverns for that.
Things fucking annihilate flyers.
Its actually really OP, but its the only way to deal with Mr. Stormwing.

>> No.39307683

You mean Hydras, anon? Ordnance does jack against flyers.

>> No.39307733

Yeah sorry, I swap them all the time.

Wrong thread for this, but what do ya'll think of Manticore/Deathstrikes?
Picked one up because it was a bitchin deal, and have no clue if I should even bother with it.

>> No.39307776


>Paintjob a bit thick and messy

forgivable /10

>Veteran laurels on tactical marine


You offend flufffags

>> No.39307830


They would be abhumans? I kinda figured that they'd be regular infantry, just paler and black haired.

A darcsen psyker though.....

>> No.39307907

looks like a kill tally to me mate.

>> No.39307931

Manticore isn't terrible, 1-3 S10 large blasts a turn will be felt. But for the same price you can get almost 3 wyverns, so you do the math.

Deathstrike is pure fun mode. 10" blast of S10 AP1 Ignore Cover fun, but it's finicky to fire and can fuck up in many ways.

>> No.39308014

Yeah, psykers are probably better. I just wanted a semi-fluffy way for my ratlings to stand out. The psyker thing is good though. Any suggestions?

>> No.39308108


>> No.39308152

It's definitely laurels

>> No.39308202


>welkin's little sister would be a space hobbit


Suggestions for the psyker? what models are you using, wyrdvane or primaris?

>> No.39308254

Kind of what I was thinking.
Be all sorts of delicious fun to drop a deathstrike on a parking lot.

>> No.39308390

Glad you finished your book. What's that grey thing on top of it?

>> No.39308393

Rogue trader WIP any thought?

>> No.39308522

of course all only imo
>first one would be good without the golden wrists
>second one is fine as is - I'm a fan of quartered schemes
>Third one need the backpack in one color either black or red and I personally would add the crotch plate into the red part of the schemes, like the Scythes of the Emperor
>Fourth one reminds me of The Emperor's Shadows Chapter Victoria Lamb did for WD a few years back.
The one I think looks best 'as is' is the quartered scheme. Though the turquoise on the last one is a nice color choice, you could keep that as spot color for the other schemes.

>> No.39308588

That canteen is HUEG and might be too much.

>> No.39308798

Oh god that mental image.
I will hopefully be making my own primaris as well as buying one, as I understand they are better than wyrdvanes. Pic is base suggestion, but how do I make a good force staff?

>> No.39309018

This photo pretty much sums up the entire history of every wip thread ever. Congrats on embodying wip.

>> No.39309042


Those the company commander bits right? one of the left hands in a chain sword. if you haven't already used it you could chop the sword part off, drill through the hand so you can insert some sort of staff. OR you could chop of the flag part of the regimental standard and add odds and ends onto it to make it look more than just a stick.

>> No.39309074

psykers are generally right on the edge of insane.
The proud bearing and swagger stick don't really mesh with that look.

>> No.39309115

My favorite thing is that of all the things the auto-focus could choose, it picked the tiny eye in the corner.

That's either some pro facial recognition, or some really shitty "what's in the middle of the goddamn frame" recognition.

>> No.39309131

Is drilled barrels the new /wip/ meme?
thin your paints has run it's course

>> No.39309162


There are those who don't thin and drill, but i see what you mean.

>> No.39309191

I think Duncan worship is the new thing now.

>> No.39309216


yup, pretty much.

>> No.39309226


>> No.39309243

Question: if I haven't already got a hand drill, should I pick up the Citadel Drill? Yes, it's overpriced GW gear, but it's got just the drill sizes I need.

>> No.39309260

looking nice, if a bit cartoony. props if that's what you were going for

>> No.39309354

If you're that desperate to be ripped off, sure. While you're at it buy some GW sand, and GW PVA glue.

>> No.39309356

While this is an absolutely beautiful mini, he simply isn't pretty enough to be a Son of Sanguinius.

>> No.39309384


Army painter is sometimes cheaper, but not by much.

>> No.39309405

So psychic Inquisitors are all almost mad? Maybe the wyrdvanes would fit this, but I can't see it fitting everywhere. The arm is merely a suggestion, I can easily change it.

>> No.39309410

D'aww, reminds me of my candyfex.

I feel I never contribute enough to these threads. Have some shit I did a year or two back - the soulgrinder main plates are obviously unfinished. I think they eventually went purple. An early version was actually full on slaaneshi, with large amounts of milliput and greenstuff, based on the body of a converted up not-barbie and a giant vagina cannon.

Then I took a long, hard look at myself in the mirror and destroyed it, because that way leads madness.

>> No.39309424


I'm rather fond of the gold one myself.

Do remember that three colours is still a thing.

>> No.39309440

just go to your local hobby shop and get the same thing for half the money.
That is what I did.
Ahh, didn't know you were shooting for Inq.
Swagger stick totally fits then.
When you get to paint stage, try to make his face have a pallor to it, as even the inquisitors struggle with their powers.

>> No.39309458

>GW Sand
I saw a basing kit, can't remember which brand it was that had literal rocks in it
just go outside goddamn

>> No.39309463

Ah, the Taxi Driver head

>> No.39309465

The grinder looks almost like it just popped out of Borderlands.
I love it.

>> No.39309467

Good luck, anon.

>> No.39309851

Those are gorgeous!

>> No.39310090

I've been looking for a sword to use to represent the fireblade on Fulgrim, I think im going to use this GK claymore.

Here it is next to the Laer blade. Its a bit shorter but meh. Im not sure whether i want to attempt to greenstuff flames onto it or just paint it with orange energy

>> No.39310138

BL (lol I know) says the sword is actually aflame, so if you are GS savvy I'd vote putting a couple licks of flame.
Don't overdo it, just a couple flares to show the idea.

>> No.39310205

Ok /tg/ I'm starting to do several projects to sell and one I've had on the back burner would be a Tau Manta that is done with a vacuum mold so I can do it up hollow as a carrying case. I had done the math before and I think it should be able to hold 20 crisis suits and over 60 small bases.

I should be able to offer it for around $100 without foam, probably $150 ish with foam.

What would /tg/ think of this?

>> No.39310222

Empire Battle Wizards have a flaming plastic sword already.

>> No.39310233

I dig it.

>> No.39310239

Thats what I would get ideally, but that bit hasnt been on ebay in months and is sold out in every online bit shop

>> No.39310301

Depending on the finished quality? Yeah I'll have a $100 manta.

How much does the based chinaman version run these days?

>> No.39310319

Im fairly sure there isnt a chinaman that does a manta

It would not be financially viable at all.

>> No.39310413

Why not just buy a wizard set and sell off the bits?

>> No.39310438

Is the manta that crazy huge?

>> No.39310479

Yea it's pretty big, I have to find some of my previous drawings but for the model count it was expecting a 2" foam along the bottom of the main body and 1" on top of that and through parts of the wings.

>> No.39310513

Just looked it up.
This motherfucker actually HOLDS 4 tanks and 8 suits just as a model?
Hell yeah you could make a case out of that.

>> No.39310539

Looking good, did you have to modify the template for thicker card?

>> No.39310920

Some other stuff I've got that I'm thinking of making more of and selling. Small flame/wreck markers. They have LED tealights in them that have them flicker.
I'm trying to do some layered colors so there would be a yellow core, a red layer, then black/gray outside.
These would be a 4 pack for $10.

>> No.39311166

>Spend what feels like forever highlighting a generic Guardsman's pants, only one out of ~80 for my planned army
>come out of my garage, look at clock
>it was only 10 minutes
Maybe I will get this done after all

>> No.39311235

I checked every recaster catalog I have, even including the ones that ask you to not share their catalogs with other people, and no one seems to have Mantas.

>> No.39311306

>Start painting my Dragoon when I wake up
>Star Trek going in the background
>Finish it
>Its 2am
>Ive gone through an entire season of Enterprise

>> No.39311329

I got the idea of the carrying case manta after someone I know actually bought the real thing. After a year he was still sanding parts to get it to fit together I figured there has to be an easier way.

>> No.39311374

Those are very cool. Possibly a little too easy to DIY to resell, but you never know, people are lazy and dumb.

This makes me very sad. Because I want a fleet, suspended on fishing wire from my ceiling. Not entirely sure what I'd have them chasing though.

I guess I'll just have to live with pic related aka what GW blatantly cribbed and IMAGINATION.

>> No.39311407

how else is he supposed to carry his booze around? a glass jar? no sir, his booze needs its +4 save

>> No.39311485

That's why I'm trying to add some additional colors to it. Making it stand out a bit with some extra work.

Having a real/recast Manta hanging from the ceiling can be dangerous since it weighs about 30lbs

>> No.39311488

The start of my Word Bearers

Am I in the wrong to want to use them in a Khorne Daemonkin army?

>> No.39311519

Do you use anything to seal those when they're done?

I made a bunch and they wore down after like 5 games.

>> No.39311555

So far the ones I've made are holding up pretty well but I'm using spray paint for the colors and that seems to be holding it together.

>> No.39311595

Have never painted a tank before. Done tyranids, lots of fantasy miniatures, stuff from boardgames, but never a tank. I'm about to paint a chimera, any general advice for what I need to do differently?

>> No.39311605

... or I forget the pic

>> No.39311702

He's horny.

>> No.39311855

I put some nuln on him
it doesn't look half the same

>> No.39311899


Don't be afraid to use a big brush. Remember that you're painting on lots of large surfaces, so it also means that your brush strokes might show up on the paint if you aren't being careful. Try to avoid that. Some parts are easier to paint separately, for example I wouldn't attach the tracks of the tanks, paint them separately and then glue them to the tank.

>> No.39311938

i wasn't lying

>> No.39312203

My only beef with this is that, from a distance, the colors blend enough to make them look less detailed than they actually are. But otherwise, I really like how they look, good job.

>> No.39312215


Brolaire approves, anon. Praise the sun.

>> No.39312398

A bloodletter sword might be a good idea.

>> No.39312452


>> No.39312523

Zhanchui's goes for exactly 700 bucks.

>> No.39312574

That can't be a Stormraven, it's far too aerodynamic!

>> No.39312646

Is that a person/servitor strapped to the front of that thing?

>> No.39313048

Yup. Horrifying, ain't it?

>> No.39313120

You're doing the suns work anon

>> No.39313299

Yeah I painted everything else I own red white or yellow. I am on a long break from super hard to paint color schemes. Mine are fluffed to be from a metal resource rich planet that was forgotten during the horus heresy wayyy out there. Orks landed and half the planet is divided between humanity and the other half orks, almost a mix of gorka morka and mad max. They aren't really admech anymore so much as most of the human population is cyborg enhanced to match the orks in battle. Everyone is drafted at 18 and has to serve 5 years. And if your still reading this im surprised you care about fluff.
yeah the pics are hard to tell, but on the table the brown and bronze are distinct enough to tell from a good distance. Plus camouflage? On a desert world? Brilliant!

>> No.39313341

New to painting.
What am I doing wrong?

>> No.39313362

Also, sorry for the mobile upload

>> No.39313364

nothing assuming you want them to be pink

>> No.39313368

And now that the two track blocks are done, it's track links for days and days.

>> No.39313377

Not cropping, resizing and rotating your image.

>> No.39313447

I do. Going for an Emperor's Children esque color scheme.

>> No.39313452

Yeah man, otherwise I'd say that looks pretty damn good.

>> No.39313474

Then so far so good. It looks like your brush control isn't the best yet (or you're using a brush that's too big). Practice will fix that.


>> No.39313510


in your opinion is it possible to cut that gimp out of the sprue and still assemble the model? Nobody ever answers.

>> No.39313982

Kind anon, if you find out, please tell if it's also possible to put more chaos-y bits on it.
We Dark-Mech now.

>> No.39314328

Anyone ever have second thoughts before doing s glow effect on a model? Because im worried as hell lol

>> No.39314374

I haven't painted very many minis before. Feed back would be appreciated.

>> No.39314468 [DELETED] 

well dub'd


>> No.39314888

Drill barrel!

Painting-wise, it depends how much time/effort you wanna put in to any individual boy. But a bit of dried blood or rust on the choppa could do a lot of good.

Rule of thumb I use is that large blocks of even color get boring. And not very orky.

>> No.39315352

Hey everyone, first time poster long time lurker. I got the idea for this conversion off the internet somewhere and I gave it a shot because I think maulerfiends look awesome and forge fiends look silly. Here's my forgefiend, please be gentle. Taken and posted by my phone so please excuse me on that one

>> No.39315497

Looks Chaos-y, though you should unify the paint scheme. As it stands, it looks like you smashed two different models together rather than converted up a new one.

>> No.39315855

Brightened up the eyes and the symbol on the chest. waiting for the base to dry before putting a chaos sigil on it and adding belbel to the base. It'll be square for fantasy since what else am i to do with a free model?

Looking at it next to Be'lackock, I kinda prefer the new job I've done. Kinda makes me feel bad, but second time's the charm?

>> No.39315867

Well, that took forever. Tracks are laid.

>> No.39316169 [DELETED] 

and after hummina-hours, he is complete

First Word Bearer C:SM done, first Chaos / Space Marine done ever,
How'd I do /tg/?
Any advice / tips?

>> No.39316420

Track section detail block. The mortars will be made of plasticard.

>> No.39316437

And the track sections attached to the hull.

>> No.39316466

Welp, I finally finished it.

First Word Bearer of many to come, first C:SM/SM ever painted.
Any tips / comments appreciated.

>> No.39316512

This is MDF?

>> No.39316570

Chipboard, actually. It's a halfway between a thick paper and a thin wood.

>> No.39316762


>> No.39316795

I'm all about custom army schemes. However, I'm a bit miffed by the skull emblems right side being white. When the original meaning of the emblem is the left side of the skull being white representing only the logical left half of the human brain being left intact while replacing the emotional right side with machinery. It is your army though you can make your own fluff I suppose.

>> No.39316826

In a few places, yes, but I handled that with a pair of clippers. For the most part, it's just paying attention to how pieces line up.

>> No.39317147


Sorry I missed your question earlier.

>> No.39317825


I have to ask, wouldnt this be cheaper to buy, thats alot of work you put into that.

>> No.39318156

You're my hero anon, that's one glorious bastard

10/10 would jolly cooperate with

>> No.39318239


I would be eternally grateful if you could share some instructions to make true scale marines like yours, I have seen some conversions but most of them look horrible, please anon sharing is caring.

>> No.39318244


>> No.39318320

hit your metalics with aggrax earthshade, then dry brush it back on. reds a bit flat, maybe come in with a drybrush using a brighter red? paint your sand, aggrax it, then highlight it.

>> No.39318337

sorry drybrush a lighter metalic of the same color for the metallic. and for the sand, just pick some color you think goes well and a few shades brighter for the highlight

>> No.39318376

put a brighter dot of green in the eyes for the lenses. put a little more detail into the backpack.

sorry again, not trying to be rude. it's a damn solid start and youll only gain by improving it.

>> No.39318418

First attempt at using my new Vallejo rust and chipping effects kit. Over did it a bit with the umber flecks, but it's not quite as bright as it looks in the photo. Nearly all gonna be covered up by the main colour anyway.

>> No.39318643


Looks good to me, but I'm a wargamer. I imagine this painting style would get some disapproving nose wrinkles from historical modelers.

>> No.39318745


The box set of VMA paints I used is marketed at historical modellers. It's basically just an expensive way of getting everything to do the 'hairspray' technique.

It'll next be covered in chipping medium, then a coat of Sinai grey (when Amazon delivers it) then the grey will be 'chipped' off with some warm water to hopefully realistically show the rust effects underneath.

>> No.39318911

Now back to the good part!

>> No.39318949

This might come in handy for a beginner.

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