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/tg/ - Traditional Games

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[ERROR] No.39271409 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Old one is almost gone

>> No.39271516

It's painted and based nicely. I don't like this faction's aesthetic though.

>> No.39271541

I agree for the most part. I like this particular walker, but the rest of the models (and especially the Forge World ones) are just awful.

>> No.39272478

overall pretty good, i think the highlights are a little too bold

>> No.39272520


I'm in the opposite category. I like the Rangers, but their machines don't appeal to me as much.

Different tastes for different anons.

>> No.39272932

Good job man, but dont you have another 11 to paint?

>> No.39273219

Just 2 more, only doing a small force to ally with.

>> No.39273405

from the sprue is it possible to cut out the gimp. It just really turns the model off for me, which otherwise is spectacular looking.

>> No.39273975

Can teegee recommend a glue to use? I've been using Zap-a-gap, but either it's expiring or I'm just bad at applying the correct amount.
I bought a bunch of Anima Tactics since the whole thing has been/is being discontinued (plus free shipping) and bits don't away stay in place even after 12+ hours.

>> No.39274111

WIP orky vehicles (buggy ×2 + mekjunka) + mekboyz led by bigmek.

Having lots of fun with these guys.

>> No.39274214

Sound almost as bad as GW's super glue, what are you using it on?

>> No.39274295

Been using Army Painter's Plastic glue for my plastic, and Gorilla Glue for my metals. No issues.

>> No.39274296


Anima shit is metal. Did you wash them with soap?

>> No.39274365

This is turning out to be a pain in my ass

>> No.39274423

Metal, not sure what kind.

Cool, I'll try Gorilla Glue next then.

No, is that normally done?

On the plus side, I'm not a total dunce as I have been thinning my paints, working in lairs, keeping my brush clean ect. This is pretty relaxing.

>> No.39274440

Finishing up some Dark Angel terminators in the pre-heresy colour scheme. Might put some yellow/red checkers on the right pauldron to make them more distinct from Black Templars.

Just couldn't be stuff painting white after doing my Tau.

>> No.39274443

I use the Gel and then spread it with a toothpick real fast to control it.

And yes, you should wash ALL miniatures as they still might have the oil or whatever they use to release the sprue/bit from the mold

>> No.39274448

>ordered casting kit from Sylmasta
>wait two weeks for the shipment to arrive while in the EU
>the fucking moulding rubber canister was cracked and had leaked half it's contents into the container the kit comes in
>the measuring cups were literally shattered into a dozen pieces each

But anyway, how's your saturday shaping up?

>> No.39274476

Wasn't their symbol red pre-heresy, or am I thinking of the Rogue Trader scheme?

>> No.39274493

Very nicely done.

>> No.39274497


Metal and resin must be washed before gluing and priming as their molds are sprayed with a heavy silicone release agent to get the model out of them.

>> No.39274636

The RT scheme had the red symbol. The Consecrator successor chapter more less has the RT scheme now.
The IA material has the PH DA with a white symbol.
I don't think there is any FW coverage for DA yet, so this could change again.

>> No.39274638


Thank you kind Anons

>> No.39274643

Working on the highlanders more- work going progressively slower because I am getting completely burnt out on painting marines and I still have just... so... MANY left to paint. These guys still need a lot before being done (eyes, woad, osl on the blades, highlights, more highlights, still more highlights, ect)

>> No.39274660

Ah, okay. Always get those mixed up.

>> No.39274723

Just finished my first Skitarii.

>> No.39274747

Lookin' good. Is that the new basing paint on his base there?

>> No.39274764


>> No.39274785

Super Glue brand super glue gel is fantastic for nearly everything relating to minis. Works well on metal and plastic models, and can be purchased in packs of three roll tubes for $1. Because the tubes are little, you can more easily hold it and control how much glue you use verses a large tube. (that would force more glue out per fold.)

Because it's gel, it doesn't fucking flow everywhere for a hot mess, and is easier to wipe away with paper towel should you over do it. It also tends to dry way smoother than zapagap or GW superglue, which love to become crusty like sandpaper.

It's also a less brittle bond, and easier to remove from skin should that happen.

Fuck ripoff brand super glue. The namebrand shit kicks ass and is way cheaper and less pretentious.

>> No.39274842


is it possible to cut the guy with no legs out of the vehicle and glue the cosole back into it without him. Looks stupid to me.

>> No.39274871


shit son, you better tell that motherfucker another motherfucker bout to eat his ass.

>> No.39275096

Field Police.
I guess that was the Chaplain.

Rogue Trader never cease to amuse me.

And those bolters. I converted one of the new ones into this ones just for fun. Love them.

>> No.39275174

My only recommendation would be to paint half of the Mechanicus Cog with some white to make the central part of the model pop a bit, and maybe do a transfer or some freehand cog-stuff on a part of the robe's front facing to break up that red a teeny bit.

That shit is annoying though, because it's a thin white color with a teeny tiny brush, so I could totally see skipping on it too.

Overall, that looks really great though.

>> No.39275292

Looks bretty gud.
The singular is Skitarius.

>> No.39275863

I'm just putting the finishing touches on my 15mm aliens & queen. May need to dig out my real camera, my phone seems to blend all these dark colours together

>> No.39275873

can we start linking to old threads please?

I really like looking at models and progress

>> No.39276015

>Back banner painted in blue and white not yellow and red like scots coat of arms.

ya fucked up son

>> No.39276125


>> No.39276145

Goddamn thin your fucking paints. that looks a hot mess!!

>> No.39276173


For DA it's still red

>> No.39276591

Do you have a single fact to back that up?

>> No.39276637

Working on this guy as a sergeant for another Grenadier squad, wanted to make him look like Big Boss. Have quite a bit of cleaning up to do, but just wanted to fit everything together. How's it look?

>> No.39276660

Also posting these converted Bullgryns I did a while back, someone from the last thread saw them in the background of my work station and asked for a picture.

>> No.39276685


The codex


Several books mention it in the fluff.

>> No.39276697

Not that anon, but Deathwing is red, Raven and regular is white.

>> No.39276716

Is that just greenstuff? I might steal those.

>> No.39276748


Yes, and the question was about terminators which is the first company who are all deathwing. You can be deathwing without terminator armor but the other way doesn't happen.

>> No.39276782

They're the shoulderpads from the Ogryn part of the kit and a bit of plasticard. Here's how I did it. A really simple conversion, really.

>> No.39276806

Found some of my old Witchhunters models so I'm trying (and failing) to paint fire well.

I'm pretty unhappy with the face but I can't seem to get it to look good.

>> No.39276823


Well yeah, for starters you fire is red. Fire isn't red.

>> No.39276827

Also, trying out a new colour scheme for my Necrons, trying to go for a more Assyrian feel - I'm planning on putting cuneiform on the larger flat areas on vehicles and the like.

What do people think? I know I fucked up the eyes a little but I blame that on my shaky hungover hands.

>> No.39276842


The overly red hue is due to too many washes of a red glaze trying to smooth out the transition between white, yellow and orange. I was going for more of a smoky fire look though so I might do a black wash or two.

>> No.39276849

Something like this maybe? Start from white and work your way up.

>> No.39276852

Something feels wrong when I look at the tiles.

>> No.39276859


Yeah, that looks much better. It's definitely too much red, it almost looks dark which is weird for fire.

>> No.39276875

Using a metallic bronze instead of beige would still look Assyrian and will highlight better.

>> No.39276890


I don't really like metallic necrons though, I was trying to get away from the dull 'black undercoat metal drybrush black was' look of most necrons.

>> No.39276959


This is too monotone though, needs at least 1 more color to look good. Maybe darken the chest and leg plates for contrast?

>> No.39276963

This might help you with faces too. Remember to thin your paints too, you might want to try an acrylic retardant like that Lahmian Medium, or just buy some from a hobby place, GW overcharges for it as usual.

>> No.39277022


I agree, making it all beige is pretty monotone. I was considering painting the more mechanical bits like the joints bronze, but that might still look to similar to the rest of the plating.

>> No.39277044


Cool, thanks for the pdf. I do have some Lahmian Medium lying around so I might finally crack it open and have a go.

>> No.39277047

WIP shots of my Yellow Horrors of Tzeentch on my WIP ruined church.

My hands were really shaking after a long day and week at work, but the Horrors are in stages of progression. Left to right, first is washed brown, second is dry brushed the base yellow, 3rd is dry brushed a lighter yellow. Then it will be another lighter yellow, then yellow+white, then white, then a yellow glaze.
Then I will paint the tongue purple or green, eyes red, and other details gold.

Then my other Horrors will Pink, Red, Blue, Green, all in units of 9 or 18.

>> No.39277067


A small progress shot before I added in the stained glass windows and finished the blue tiles.

>> No.39277076


Showing a bit of the stained glass. Still a bit blurry, but I will have better pictures later.

>> No.39277082


Proof of better pics coming :)

>> No.39277093


I think maybe making some of the plating look like a dark seagreen marble might be cool, if you can pull off the veins.

>> No.39277110

How did you get the glass like that? I really want to do something similar with those buildings from Pegasus Hobbies.

>> No.39277123


Nothing more than that, though..........

>> No.39277144

is that the old cardboard Imperial firebase/bastion?

>> No.39277177

That's a Deathwing Termie.
The picture on the upper left is a Pre-Heresy Marine in the appropriate scheme. At the time there was no Deathwing. I take it you are not very familiar with Dark Angels fluff?

>> No.39277195


Like the Nihilakh dynasty marble but green?

That sounds like an interesting idea, I'll give it a shot.

>> No.39277220


Making good looking marble isn't really exceptionally hard if you do it as line work

>base dark green
>take a pale light green and a fine brush, make veins
>glaze green
>make certain parts of the veins more prominent

I'm sure there are more comprehensive video guides on the internet

>> No.39277254


Seriously pretty cool

>> No.39277266

What a nice HOBBY ROOM.

>> No.39277506

Friendly reminder, thin your paints!


>> No.39277522

is that a bagpipe?

>> No.39277898

This army's gone through a couple color revisions before I settled on what I got now. Originally it was blue with white trim, to be themed after the current Scottish flag, and that stayed on only shoulders/banners. I don't hate the idea of a yellow banner though.
You bet your ass that's a bagpipe!

>> No.39277987


Now for the sombrero

>> No.39277999

0:04 used to be my steam avatar for a long time

>> No.39278012

oh my fucking god

>> No.39278178


>> No.39278179

Are you a twelve year old who just discovered a dank new meme on the illegal underground hacking site known as 4chan?

Seriously, fuck off. That model is great

>> No.39278221

>that maraca
sweet jesus, 10/10 anon

maybe paint that skelly's skull green?

>> No.39278286

i've been staring at my Imperial Knight errant for 4 months now . cant decide what color to paint it and i'm scared it will end up looking shit

>> No.39278419

you can always strip it when you're not happy with results.
Go on anon, no sense on looking on box full of grey spures.

>> No.39278437


Do you have something like a favorite sci fi movie or any movie really? Maybe video games? Surely you can think of something you like that might work out as a base for a color scheme.

I for one think there's also a distinct lack of assasinorum and inquisitorial knights.

>> No.39278480

what this anon says:

go with either movie/game theme, or maybe make your national colours/symbols knight? Or just follow your army theme? What do you play btw?
Also, you can go full crazy and use him to make looted knight for ork army.

>> No.39278552


>using national colors

Most people will think you're a nazi crazy person nowadays, unless you're from a different country. It's not cool to be proud of where you were born.

>> No.39278659

want to ask what the justification for using the maul is on a ranger unit.

seriously those guys shouldn't be anywhere near a combat

>> No.39278751

Remove swede

>> No.39278770

>It's not cool to be proud of where you were born.

Shut the fuck up, Germany, nobody cares what you think.

>> No.39278848


Not even from those extreme countries, but shit is getting ridiculous. I know about islam and a thousand cultures except my own because that was mandatory stuff to learn, yet I have no idea how to do my own taxes or laundry.

I'm still going to make a subtle nationalist scheme for my orks though. Won't be as obvious as directly using the colors but I'll work them in somehow.

>> No.39278853

im putting an australian knight on my to do list

>> No.39278898

Now THIS is a chain sword!

>> No.39278930

A Prodigal Son returns.

>> No.39278946

Right pauldron

>> No.39279055

I know its not a wip but I had to share...

Apparently pic related is a £100 paint job.

My eyes burn...

>> No.39279150

tfw still not warm enough to spray prime outside

I've been waiting for couple of months now and I have like 200 minis assembled and lot of them heavily converted as well.

>> No.39279234

As much as i want to pant his face green, thad be just too weird

>> No.39279361

green glow coming from inside the skull?

>> No.39279463

From the eye sockets could be fitting, yeah

>> No.39279577

Alright, so the guy on the left is constantly getting updated with little details, but I'm afraid this latest round of inking, while it did make him look less plain, just made him look more messy or cluttered than "gritty."
Guy on the right is my first finished attempt for one of his cadre. Thoughts?

>> No.39279583

Have you considered double-maracas?

>> No.39279640

Reverse shot of axe guy.

>> No.39279751

We rattle now.

>> No.39279769

Started the first of two ironclad dreadnoughts

>> No.39279800

Very nice inking and highlighting there bro. Even though it's subtle with those colors that dread looks almost finished-- good as is.

>> No.39279830

Judging ensues. So far my "basic shit" black knights have won 1st place in something. Lol

>> No.39279915

As much as i would hate chopping the spear arm off, it would look pretty fucking neat with two maracas

>> No.39280246


A while back I saw some minis made by one of those "totally not Warhammer" companies, it was a lot of Admech stuff. I don't have the pics anymore and I can't find them anywhere but I remember a Magos, some Skitarii, and an armored centipede tank of some kind.
Anybody have the pictures I'm talking about, or better yet know the company that makes them?

I'm doing some conversions and I'm looking for other sources that look Admechy enough, like Convergence of Cyriss from Warmachine.

>> No.39280511


Nice trips, and I love the custom work on the left.

>> No.39280525

He looks so happy. Really fucking great!

>> No.39280544


It does look like 100 quid of paint went on it

>> No.39280634

Does any place still sell truescale space marine bits?

>> No.39280703

Aaayyee lmao we both won 1st. Beat out a huge nagash and treeman model

>> No.39280790

Those look a hell of a lot better right there than I've ever seen them. Your lighting at home is shit, mate.

>> No.39280971

Most 3rd party stuff i've seen looked like shit anyway.
Snoop around on the BnC, there are a whole bunch of people doing truescale minis in a bunch of different ways. Some if the best conversions I've seen involve FW termies.

>> No.39280977

I was the one who asked for the picture, I saw the masks and was really interested, awesome work!

>> No.39281069

Does anyone have that pdf guide to casting?

>> No.39281254

Zealot has robed legs for PA and terminator bodies that make them taller:

>> No.39281395

What was the name of your models?

>> No.39281402


On that note; don't EVER buy Silicoflex HE if you want to make molds. That shit is absolutely abysmal, and now I'm 85 euros poorer because I believed the salesman that it had a clearly flowing viscosity when mixed with the hardener.

Fuck him, I will literally go punch him in the face and take my money back, and fuck Silicoflex shit.

Also fuck Sylmasta. Cost a hundred euros for a casting kit that only comes with 450 grams of silicone rubber, and then the fucking cocksuckers package the container so poorly that things inside BREAK! I lost half of the silicone rubber in the package because the jar for it was cracked.

God damnit I am so fucking MAD today.

>> No.39281421

Finishing the last red Butcher as I bounce between projects.

>> No.39281441


>> No.39281448

Is all the stuff about making holes so that air can get out difficult? I can see myself not knowing at all where to pierce the mold after making it

>> No.39281510

More focusing on terrain projects.
Something quick and easy.

>> No.39281621

What did you use to make it?

>> No.39281658

>Single Battle Line of Joe's Black Knights
>Skaven Scout Line

>> No.39281684

Masonite for the base, foam board for the walls, and some high density styrofoam for random elevations and debris. Coat it with a thin level of Spackle. All the chunks in the Spackle is ground up cork.

It dries to be very coarse, but flat enough to put minis on.

>> No.39281711

I'm glad you made it in time. Good job, OP

>> No.39281720

Let me draw you a picture.

Blue represents the plasticine that you push the models/ pieces you want to cast in resin.

Bright red lines represent bits of sprue, sticks, rods or tubes that you lay on extremities of the model. These are the channels through which your resin injection will travel, fill up the mould, and then exit through.

Dark red lines within the bright red lines represent the ports through which air will be pushed out as you inject resin into the mould. Don't inject into these ports, because you might end up with trapped air bubbles in the final cast.

The blue shapes within the mold are small pieces, like metal balls or beads that you use to create an locking mechanism for the two halves of silicone to stay in place. I put a couple different shapes in there and generally in corners so that I the two halves align perfectly.

>> No.39281754

So instead of just pouring you use a syringe or something like that?

>> No.39281789

Yes, to ensure that air is pushed out, and reduce the amount of board pounding I have to do to dislodge the rest of them.

You can get cheap packages of syringes

>> No.39281791

Different anon, but in my experience you need the additional pressure because you're dealing with such small and intricate things.

You also need to be super aware of how overhangs and air bubbles are going to happen. It's honestly much easier to duplicate entire sprues, because all of this support/infrastructure work has been done for you.

>> No.39281838

It's not shit, it's basic.

>> No.39281841

I'll give that some thought, I have a casting kit but have yet to make a mold because until recently its been fuck mothering cold here.
Once you are injecting, just keep up pressure until you get plastic in the air vents right?

>> No.39281865

Sprues are indeed easier to duplicate, but they also present a new problem with their varying sizes. You may need quite a lot of silicone to make a new mold for a sprue, which can end up quite costly if you're going to be duplicating a lot of things.

>> No.39281892

Then give it some good hefty whacks on the side to dislodge any bubbles. If you have something that vibrates a lot even better - I've actually sat a mold ontop of the washing machine on a spin cycle to shake the bubbles free (completely supervised of course).

>> No.39281893

repaired the glow effect on the model
better now?

>> No.39281941

Still cheaper on average than GW in my experience - but you're right, I tend to reserve complete sprues for cases when I know I'm going to be using most all of them, eg vehicle sprues, or the "main" sprues for infantry units.

>> No.39281985

Yes, exactly.

Fill the syringe to the brim, swiftly but evenly inject it, refill if you don't see any resin start to push out of the air vents, and keep going until it just barely tops the edge of the mould. Don't want to waste a lot of resin.

On a different note, I would suggest to anyone else interested in resin recasting to try and calculate whether or not it's actually economically worth it. For me, a 35 euro model that I want multiples of, along with the cost of ~100 euros for a casting kit, is getting a bit on the side of "Was it really worth it?" I mean, I COULD always try and sell cheap 5 dollar recasts of the thing to locals to recoup losses, but if it's just for myself I'd need to cast at least 5 or 6 of the same kit for it to start being economically even. That is, if your game even permits you to take that many of the same model.

>> No.39282024

Not sure if this counts, but I AM working on these. Getting them fitted for an event.

They are Steel BTW

>> No.39282035

I bought the kit with a coupon, so it only ran me about 48 dollars.
I plan to use it to recast OOP metal guardsmen so I can have full regiments of them without paying a metric butt ton of money.

>> No.39282062

hey man! I was the one who pointed it out yesterday, it looks way better now. good job. it could probably do with a little less on the hand holding the auspex, but other than that looks much better.

>> No.39282064

Is there anywhere I can buy some of the technical paints or texture paints that isn't GW and are reasonably priced?

>> No.39282077

Would it happen to be a convention?

>> No.39282120

Going to make a big Mac, waiting on a head from ebay

>> No.39282146

His kff
need some help with this

>> No.39282153

Yes, later on, however its much much more retarded.

Obstacle course run.

And fucked up the Butcher

>> No.39282160

>ontop of the washing machine on a spin cycle
Shit, that's got to be a chunk of electricity money you're wasting, unless you're doing a couple of dozen moulds at a time.
I guess it's not practical with >>39281720 design, since it's got so many ports in ti, but I've heard of people filling their mould cases until they're effectively totally at capacity - near to overflowing from the (one or two, max.) air vents - and then shaking them like a cocktail mixer to get all the corners filled, and then setting them back down to let the bubbles rise.
This was with molds with an injection port that goes from the top down to enter the bottom of the casting hollow, with two air vents opposite on the top, pic crudely related.
Also for 54mm (Inquisitor and similar) parts, so larger cavities to aim for, with robes and shit that can be a pain to get to cast nicely without that level of mould 'engineering' - vents are usually at the tips of robe swathes(?) to get a sharp point on hanging cloth and the like.

>> No.39282173

And dead guy for his base
Does he look dead enough?

>> No.39282176

Would it happen to be in Dallas, from June 5-7?

>> No.39282254

Nope. I have a feeling you are there.

>> No.39282256

That nigga looks super dead. I'd just add some highlights on the clothes and armour to bring the whole shebang together.

>> No.39282277

thanks again anon! yeah maybe I did too much on that, will probably fix it later. I've also almost finished the second marine (the sergeant), will post it later as soon as I apply ardcoat

>> No.39282281

I was also washing laundry, in my defense.

Just don't do it with towels or bedding. They bunch up. And then you get resonance. And then you get resin all over the walls. And yourself. On the plus side, that shit doesn't wash out, so you're still not likely to be wasting electricity.

>> No.39282331


This guy>>39282160 again.
The OOP thing is exactly where I see the most economically valid/morally unambiguous/worth the major fucking hassle use of hobbyist re-casting.

There are a LOT of models that are too nice, too useful or from too limited a range to let them die just because it's not business-sensible for the relevant companies to keep maintaining the moulds.

Not that I disagree with casting Catachans or anything, but at least you can still buy them if you have to - no-one's getting any more 54mm trophy Troll Slayers or the like.

>> No.39282349


Not a fan of the blood on the forearm and axe, love it on the legs/back. Love all the rest of the painting too.

>> No.39282353

Alright, thanks.

>> No.39282366

My plans exactly.
I also plan to recast several of my characters for SM so I can chop them up and make a Deathwatch entirely of Chapter masters and the like.

>> No.39282412

That sounds like a major pain inn the ass afternoon.
Can't you plug/tape the vents?
Will your resin still cure?

Also, got any pics of casts?
Always curious to see how home folks do with it, since I only know the one aforementioned guy that does it with any regularity, and Based Chinaman, who are (I assume) a bit above the level of the casual caster.

>> No.39282419

Would blood be able to stick to a nemesis force weapon? Thinking of bloodying up my Grey Knights, but I'm unsure of how or if blood would stick to the weapons. Would it be lightsaber style, where there is no blood, or would it be like a regular weapon?

>> No.39282441

simple but very neat, and done with probably most diffcult colour to paint - at least for me

>> No.39282517

I dig the Big Mek Conversion

>> No.39282519

It bothers me how blunt the weapons always look, but I've never really had much success reshaping them into proper edges - they tend to be very wavy and uneven. Has anybody had any success?

>> No.39282607


>> No.39282660

I'm seeing an aweful lack of Blood for the Blood god on there.

>> No.39282695

Are there any companies that sell high quality miniatures with attractive designs/realistic proportions, but at reasonable prices? I'm tired of seeing +$20 for any decent miniature

>> No.39282915


>> No.39282978

Not sure if this is the right thread to ask this since it's all just war hammer minis, but whatever.

I just got pic related in the mail, and I have been thinking about painting the minis. What tips can you guys give me? and what kind of paint should I invest in? I don't have much money (get paid once a month) so I would generally prefer something on the cheaper side. I have never really painted anything before, but I have looked through many tutorials on painting minis.

>> No.39283032


>> No.39283090

A few friends have this game, one with a bit too much money uses for everything Citadel Colours, another used Army Painter for good effect. He didn't seem to have any problems with colouring them, so I think apart from a bit different plastic there is not much special about painting them. But I like those minis and the game. Makes me always think about getting an old box of Warhammer Quest or Heroquest.

>> No.39283140

Get like a grey primer and buy some vallejo paints, along with GW agrax earthshade or any other brown ink wash. You can buy like black paint from the dollar store, but you should buy vallejo coloured paints and white.

>> No.39283177

pauldron looks like someone smeared paint on it...
Looks bad.

>> No.39283193

Don't buy cheap acrylics, if you're serious about painting them to a high quality, then don't skimp. Learn how to THIN YOUR PAINTS. Never ever ever ever ever let paint reach past 2/3rds of the brush and go into the ferrule.

>> No.39283196



>> No.39283229



I promise to come back later with cool conversions. I love me some Admech.

>> No.39283246

Slowly finishing basecoating my lootas. Only skin and some blue/red/checker panels on guns.

also, anyone else have problems with loading images in this thread?

>> No.39283291

That's fun. Shoulder pads should be tits or something though.

>> No.39283436

>want to paint iron warriors
>don't have any iron warriors to paint right now
I should probably stop paintiong hazard stripes everywhere

>> No.39283445

Has a certain 80s/early 90s miniatures charme to it. I like it.

>> No.39283454

what did you use to apply the blood?

>> No.39283486


Agree, the whole aesthetic seems way too steampunk for me.

>> No.39283536

I think the Administratum's OSHA equivalent appreciates though.

>> No.39283593

When I saw the spoilers I really only liked the Vanguard/Rangers (and I still do), but after seeing the higher quality images on GW's site I think the Ironstriders and Stalkers/Infiltrators are growing on me.

I really don't like the Onager though. I think it's the crab legs?

>> No.39283644

> Never ever ever ever ever let paint reach past 2/3rds of the brush and go into the ferrule.

I wish this advice was as prominent as "Thin your paints". I definitely ruined a lot of brushes because I let paint get into the ferrule.

>> No.39283830


YO! tell me the how to paint these mothers!

>> No.39284181

I second this, along with "wash your brush before every paint withdraw form your palette when using metalics"

>> No.39284183

Rustoleum grey primer, Agrax wash and layer all bit the recesses with Celestra grey (takes about 4-5 thin coats). Then edge highlight ulthuan grey followed by white scar. Glad you like em.

>> No.39284252


First place: Most retarded regiment

>> No.39284254

gem I found on my local auction service, 5$ total

>> No.39284263

What did you use for the bases?

>> No.39284297


Very nice!

>> No.39284331

6+ FnP

>> No.39284360


Will try them out. Simple in looks, yet the paint scheme looks perfect on the space marines.

>> No.39284548

Cork tile rocks and secret weapon miniature spent shell casings. The dirt is dryad bark with mournfang then steel legion drybrushes. The rock is Skavenblight dinge with a Nuln oil wash.

>> No.39284576

Like, cork floor tiles?

>> No.39284666

how many times you re-hydrtate your wet palette before making new one?

>> No.39284905

i use my mouth

>> No.39285048

i thought i was the only one doin this ...

>> No.39285064

We're both retarded! Huzzah!

>> No.39285232

Cork coasters ripped up. All kinds of cork have a very realistic rocky finish when painted

>> No.39285299

you wouldnt mind sharing (the tut) how to make the las rifles?

>> No.39285325

I'd like to be a pain in her ass if you know what I mean.

>> No.39285452

What system/seller?

>> No.39285513


>working in lairs

>> No.39285658

>not a total dunce

>> No.39286000

What do you mean you use your mouth? I'm so confused.

>> No.39286058

I thin my paints with my mouth. I wipe of excess onto my lips after scraping it on the side of the paint pot and use my tongue to thin it as much as i need too.
So, i dont need a wet pallet to thin.

>> No.39286101

>So, i dont need a wet pallet to thin.

Well... technically you do.

>> No.39286213

wooden thing
painting thing
mouth thing

>> No.39286301

Killjoy please.

>> No.39286309

could be hitech miniatures, they have some not-mechanicus stuff

>> No.39286425

That is the main floor living room, but we normally play a full sized table in the basement beside my bar. We just did it up there for space and so my housemate could take pictures for a stop animation project if I was not home.

>> No.39286606


From the Cathedrae Noctis: Hellworks II by Worldworks. There is a pdf with tons of stained glass that you print on transparent paper. However, I had to adjust the height on the ones I used to get it right, though. Lucky for you... I am awesome and attached my modified file!

>> No.39286636

print with no scaling.

>> No.39286807


It's not :(
I love Hitech though, especially with some of the names they give their minis. For their "totally not Perturabo", they have pic related. I give you: Proturbo
Here's a list of sites I've checked:

Anvil Industries

>> No.39287087

Blood red and black is very hackneyed
Look at a colour wheel

>yet I have no idea how to do my own taxes or laundry.
>>yet I have no idea how to do my own ... laundry.
Holy fuck
Tax can get complex, but fair dinkum?

>> No.39287672

The spheres look like ass, make new ones and take some time rolling it to get it to at least have a smooth surface.

I mean they fucking look like you used old chewing gum for it.

The spring looks kinda hokey, and you'd prolly be better off using it elsewhere. Maybe stretch it out between the two poles like the inside wires of a light bulb.

The teef glyph looks just bad right there, completly out of place. Like, everyone know that's from a bosspole, and those glyphs are ment to be shown off. If you want structural support there, just replace it with a thin length of sprue.

Also give him a wrench, even if it's hanging off his belt he just looks too much like a nob with a zappy backpack. A waistcloth might help too, to kinda give the feeling of a worker's apron.

>> No.39288334


>> No.39288361

I think you're being a bit silly. If it looks cool, do it.

>> No.39288444

I'm just wondering if it would make sense. Would the blood stick or would it fizzle off due to the pure psychic power running through it?

>> No.39288485


Force weapons would boil away any blood, so they should always look clean, except for Thunder Hammers.

But that is boring, and is a wasted opportunity for blood effects. If you want to bloody up your weapons, go for it.

>"I don't even need to activate my blade for the likes of you."

>> No.39288510


>> No.39288579

>Pshh...nothing personnel, heretic

>> No.39288712

How about spraying some on the armor? Or even the boots? Maybe a nice curbstomp effect?

>> No.39288788


Yes? There's nothing on their armor that stops blood from splashing on it. Blood splatter doesn't have enough kinetic energy to activate conversion fields made from Terminator Armor, Iron Halos, or Void Shields. It will pass through their invulnerable save because it's not a harmful attack.

>> No.39288802

>GKs bathe in the blood of SoB and coat their armor with it to sanctify themselves
>"Can GKs have bloody armor?"

>> No.39288804

please do! you are kind of inspiring me to do a deathwatch squad of my own for Kill Team

>> No.39289280

Now to do red gem on helm, skull gem on sword, and blue glow on skulls with fader green glow on the rod

>> No.39289322

Transitions are hard. Also, fucken mould lines. Need me some liquid green stuff....

>> No.39289488

Took some guys advice, added an apron and a wrench at his side

>> No.39289509

....take a tooth brush... and brush that damn model

>> No.39289518

My kff still looks like shit.

>> No.39289551

And I think I'm done with this dead guy.

>> No.39289623

okay, why? What would that do?

>> No.39289650

If he hadn't used fucking ork legs, that would actually be a pretty cool looted dread

>> No.39289658

Im starting to think shilling 5 dollars on ebay is good idea right now.

>> No.39289715

It looks sweet. Like broken flooring. Imma try that.

>> No.39289747

get all that fucking hair and grit and shit off of your model

>> No.39289788


Give up now. Most neckbeards on /tg/ are greasy slobs. You don't want to see the condition of their smartphone screens or keyboards.

>> No.39289837

It got most of it off, thanks i guess.
Im only clean with my models

>> No.39290063

Muh Talabeclanders.
Very slowly progressing.

>> No.39290116

great stuff!

>> No.39290132

lovely faces, metals, and cloth.

>> No.39290141

Those are fucking fantastic! 'Eavy Metal comparable to me.

>> No.39290158

these are real nice

>> No.39290358

Firestorm Armada Directorate guy again, and I've done two more test ships. My general scheme will be what you see here, these are just tests on junker models for color blocking. I'm trying two different base colors, two shades of green on the hull plating, and two shades of green for the detail, going for a kind of sickly look since these guys are biowarfare specialists. Alternating starting from the left are green ochre and worn olive base coats, with hull plating divided on each ship between peacock green on the left and black green on the right (again, going to pick one of these) with the left two ships using pale green for detail and the right two moth green. Which combination looks the best?

>> No.39290372

Thanks heaps anon. That's a huge compliment.

>> No.39290457

Adapting a papercraft model for my laser cutter. Let's see if I can make a Gorgon.

>> No.39290523

>Paint entire army in Goff scheme
>Want to switch to Bad Moon

Fuck sake, I really can't be arsed to redo all the vehicles.

>> No.39290540

You could paint any new units as bad moon, call it a joint army because of a small waaagh or something

>> No.39290613

No problem anon, they look fucking dope. Be proud of them.

>> No.39290614

Green ochre, black green, pale green looks about right to me.

>> No.39290890 [DELETED] 

I also highlight gold with blue

>> No.39290934 [DELETED] 

wut, how the fuck did the name lance end up in greentext in my post

>> No.39291030

Stop being a faggot, that's not funny anymore unless you're serious

>> No.39291152

Coming along slowly, but well enough.

>> No.39291183

This will be epic

>> No.39291202

What's the goal here?

>> No.39291227

Read the post

>> No.39291436

But what's a Gorgon. (Other than the greek mythological bitch)

>> No.39291503

Slap some paint on it. It will look right as rain.

>> No.39291586

It's a giant IG tank from forgeworld, a giant troop carrier/landing craft type thing

>> No.39291588

Wow, very clean. Those are some of the best I've seen here.

>> No.39291692


Ripoff legs, aquire tank treads.

>> No.39291896

Yup. Ever see SAVING PRIVATE RYAN? Remember that boat that dropped the soldiers off on the beach? It's that, but with big-ass treads.

>> No.39291982

Fuck,now I know why he let himself killed.

>> No.39292109

Looks good mqn. THe only thing I would say is that all the silver/metal looks really plain. Maybe try some kind of dark wash on it to add some depth

>> No.39292196

Someone in here once told me to use Reikland Fleshshade on metal for a dirty, grimy effect, and it actually worked wonders. Give it a shot maybe?

>> No.39292211

I don't see why not. Half the fun of the hobby is experimenting!

>> No.39292228

jesus, am I the only one totally NOT feeling the adaptuis mechanicus army?

I mean...

its all grubbly bits. The normal troops look like Imperial Guard with skinny metal legs.

the special units just look like a bunch of pistons slapped together.

I almost wish they mad eth army more .. human focused? like an IG regimen? I have no fucking idea, honestly.

>> No.39292280

Its not for everyone i guess. I'm not crazy about it like some people are. Just different tastes. Some people are really excited to use it in conversions though which I can definitely see

>> No.39292309

the only models from the new mechanicus army i like are the ones of the skitarri guys with the metal bird legs for running fast. the walker i think could have been way better, and the normal squads are ok, but that sniper rifle using a stand like that? i havent read the rules for any though, this is purely based on looks

>> No.39292338

The rules are kickass but I'm not feeling the models honestly. I like the walkers except for the gimp suit driver.

>> No.39292422

yea that gimp suit dude is abit... no VERY lame

like.. on the level of the grey knight baby-carrier lame.


but then again.. how could they make a mechanicus army look unique? they already hav robot skeletons (necrons), full humans....

I guess something in between? that isn't space marines?

hoenstly I have no idea how a mechanicus army would work... unless it was all cyber-beasts, with a few full-hooded/robed characters leading them? Maybe bring back Arbite style Judge Dredd types as regular troops?

>> No.39292462

Which model is this?

>> No.39292466

Yes. To each their own, and if you don't like it, you don't like it and that's cool. But you are just about the only one who doesn't seem to like the Ad Mech stuff. The general opinion on them runs the gamut from really excited to having to wipe a hot load out of one's panties.

>> No.39292500

And the back angle.

>> No.39292577

The gimp dude is exactly the sort of stupid thing the mechanicus would use. The servitor drives the vehicle and the Skitarius up top gets to be the Cool Guy. What I'm wondering is how survivable it is...

>> No.39292593


>> No.39292652

Nice! How did you do the rivets?

>> No.39292991

I really like it. Not too convinced by the weapons, but the figs look ripe for conversion opportunities.

>> No.39293139

Goddamn, you ever think of selling any of those?

>> No.39293479

If you ever get that to a stage where you can make a flatpack, I'd love to get one off of ya.
I love building mdf models, usually don't even paint them.

>> No.39293574

I'm actually using 1/16~ chipboard. It's about halfway between a paper product and a wood product. But the file here is the papercraft I've been deriving all the pieces from.

>> No.39293688

Sounds like it'd make it easier than a straight papercraft.
I usually do mdf stuff because the last time I tried to make papercraft the damn model kept crushing on me.
Shocker, printer paper isn't a good structural material.
I'm sure there was some specific type of paper I was supposed to use in hind sight....

So you are just converting those plans so they can be used to laser out chipboard?

>> No.39293746

From your description it sounds like Blight Wheel. Micro Art Studio has some AdMech as well.

>> No.39293916

Started my DKoK grenadiers, painted my first test model today. Still practicing my techniques but it turned out decently I think.

>> No.39293917

I like the skitarii, but the rest of the line doesn't do much for me either. I'm also not really a big fan of the FW stuff, except for the tanks.

I would have expected to see much more stuff like huge combat servitors and other body horror stuff. The gimp in the walkers look more comical than anything.
Basically stuff similar to the arco flagellants or the chrono gladiator from the Inqusitor line.

>> No.39293953

If you rubber cement the templates to thin plasticard, <1mm, that makes for a great model.

Yup, that's exactly what I'm doing. Luckily, the pdf plans can be opened and edited in CorelDraw.

>> No.39293970

another angle

>> No.39293979

I'm not really convinced by the base, but apart from that it looks alright.
Add some soot to the flamer's barrel.

>> No.39294023

Did you take the pictures just after washing everything? Why does it look so... slimy?

>> No.39294026

I'm not really sure how to base very well. I just used some textured paint as snow. Any tips?

>> No.39294060

I still need to give it a matte varnish, my spray should be arriving this week I hope. I've been told I should either use that or thin down my inks with paint thinner rather than just water.

>> No.39294079

that and the lighting is rather unflattering

>> No.39294250

First off all you should clean up the rims of the bases. That should help make it look better.
I'd think about adding something else in the mix there, like rocks, ice stalagmites or crystals maybe. Or maybe let some earth show through the snow if you are not going for an entirely ice world kind of feel. It just looks a little boring as it is now.

The snow effect itself is also not that spectuacular, at least in the picture. Maybe look into some railroad modeling stuff for making different kinds of snow, wet, slushy, dry, sparkly etc.
Secret Weapon Miniatures do have some pretty good tutorials on snow, those use crushed glass though. So if you are one of the people that are worried about handling stuff like that it might not be for you, but still worth a look.

>> No.39294293

The Gorgon's taking shape nicely, but the rear deck is a bit misaligned. I'll have to cut guidelines into the deck plate to correct for that on the next one.

>> No.39294411


Use hobby crushed glass for snow. Don't inhale or ingest it.

>> No.39294485

Hey, could you possibly make those plans available on here or the wiki once you get done editing them?

>> No.39295437

Unless you own a laser cutter, my plans would be pretty useless. They're adjusted for the material I'm cutting. Your best bet is to use the pdf papercraft, cut out the bits, rubber cement them to 1mm plasticard and build your model from those bits.

>> No.39295461

And come to think of it, I'm not even sure if I would be able to give you sharable files. My cutter is a knock-off version from China that uses a proprietary file extension with a CorelDraw macro.

>> No.39295495

>please don't inhale crushed glass.


>> No.39295652


this is really cool. can we get a pic of your knights?

>> No.39295790


Personally i prefer baking soda for a number of reasons.

>> No.39295948

And now the project is recognizable as a Gorgon. All that's left is the plow and the treads.

>> No.39295973

Ahh that would be the kicker, my friend has a lasercutter and we both play 40k so it would be a win win but having a proprietary file would knock that idea out of the park

>> No.39296104

>baking soda
It will turn yellow.

>> No.39296351


So... yellow snow?

>> No.39296390


>> No.39296426

I can give you the papercraft file and walk you guys through what I did. It's not really hard, it's just kind of a pain in the ass. Shoot me an email at [email protected] when you guys want to get started. Always willing to help out another laserbro.

There are plenty of other great papercraft files online that can get ripped apart and done up like I'm doing. One guy on DakkaDakka did a thunderhawk gunship, which is where I got this whole idea in the first place.

Adding a drop or two of bright, eye-hurting blue to the mix will prevent that happening.

>> No.39296617

will do when i get to talk with him.

>> No.39296656

Excellent. I'll chat with you guys then.

>> No.39296764

Looks nice well done. How much did you save with your project instead of buting one from FW?

>> No.39296826

I save $176 or thereabouts if I count the cost of the chipboard and the plasticard I'm using specifically for this model.

>> No.39296996


>> No.39297103

>Adding a drop or two of bright, eye-hurting blue to the mix will prevent that happening.
That works for bleaching hair, but on snow? Never heard of that before.

>> No.39297129

I forget where I picked that trick up, but it works.

>> No.39297176

Guys, I'm looking for true scale space marines kits, but it seems that every third party that was doing it ended up taking them down. Do you know anyone who still do them? Or will I have to green stuff and convert?

>> No.39297194

>Or will I have to green stuff and convert?



>> No.39297253

Ah damn. I read this one already. Guess I'll have to buy termies on ebay. About that, is there any way to remove dried glur from a model, without fucking it up? In case I want to take parts of bought miniatures.

>> No.39297274

If it's super glue, leaving the models in the freezer overnight should make the glue very brittle and able to be broken off. If it's a different adhesive, I can't help you, unfortunately.

>> No.39297351

That's still something. Thanks!

>> No.39297577

Finished a squad. Too bad I cant take pictures worth shit.

>> No.39297592


>> No.39297598

Make your own light box. Quick cheap and easy way to have much much better photos.

>> No.39298249


make the kill team! It's fun as fuck, plus you get to customize your models because you'll only need 5-6 of them

>> No.39298265

forgot pic

>> No.39298682

How do you go modifying the card templates for thicker materials?

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