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[ERROR] No.34536818 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Old one died and didn't see a new one

On a side note: is yoymart good? Legit enough to send them your money?

>> No.34536929

Open question:

How would you go about to make a "skeleton lord" for Chaos Space Marines? Like, using a skeleton head on the CSM body for example...although doing only that seems a bit to simple.

>> No.34536960

How do i drybrush

>> No.34537017

>Legit enough to send them your money?

You get what you pay for.
In my opinion its fine, you have clean them way more and correct some minor mistakes like bend resin but overall and if you dont try to play at your local GW store? Sure why not, if you want the real thing, though, go for FW.

Also this is quite funny, saw it last thread but forgot to reply.
I mean GW is right here but on the other hand they really underestimate the quality of chinamodels.

>> No.34537041

what about using a body from the legion of the damned? They have some bones on their armour?

Pick a paint, pick a sturdy brush, whipe off most paint (not all!) and then lighty swipe over your area you want to paint.

If anyone has experience with recasters, I'd like to know which ones are good :)

>> No.34537042

Could consider replacing the power armoured arms with skeleton arms. Would need a bit of jiggeling to get them not to look oddly undersized. Not sure why the armour would have been stripped off but it's a living skeleton so how much sense can people expect.

>> No.34537093

>what about using a body from the legion of the damned? They have some bones on their armour?
that might work, but it just doesn't speak "chaos" to me.

wouldn't it look better if I cut open parts of the armor, and used a Skeleton Warriors parts as "filling"?

>> No.34537102

>I mean GW is right here but on the other hand they really underestimate the quality of chinamodels.

reading about bubbles made me think of sendung them one of their finecast shit models and asking them if those are fake

>> No.34537220

yoymart and taobao are marketplaces
you could order from Zanchui or CCON directly and save eben more money

>> No.34537259

juve, gangster and heavy

>> No.34537271

>buy some finecast stuff until you got damaged shit
>set up a letter with the adress of the store you bought it from, with receipt and name of the store owner
>wait for the sweet sweet GW reply

>> No.34537286

that would be awesome

Zanchui isn't the guy from lowpricewarhammer, is he? The [email protected] email thing? Is he thrustworty? His stuff is so cheap!

>> No.34537371

I heard a lot of good stuff about Zanchui. Ordered some stuff, should be here in 3 or 4 weeks.

The stuff I ordered from CCON was really good, too.

>> No.34537614

You could also buy from Chinaman, send it to GW, give them some info like "bought it from another customer at GW store ..." give them a vague story about how you played with him but don't know the last name. Then remember them how they said they'll give you the real model.
Still profit

>> No.34538432

Another IG vet getting painted up. This one has a plasma gun, ripped sleeves, and a Mr. T mohawk.

Probably gonna fuck the eyes up hardcore though.

>> No.34538701

Give him some nikes.

>> No.34538840

black coach wip
the roof always falls down, need to fix that, and add some wooden textures.

>> No.34539248


some Air Emperor's? what color??

>> No.34539297

I was wondering if I should keep the cloth on my firewarriors/stealth suits black, I cant find a color to go with the turquoise/cream/orange.
I can provide a better example if need be.

>> No.34539455

Just finished my first 2 Kroot.

I'm totally new to this, starting a Tau Army.

Got a box of Fire warriors, 2 XV8s and some Kroot - The models for them are great, lots of options and things to add on.

>> No.34539466

Holy shit, Ultramarine Taus !
Seriously, they look very nice. The problem is blue/yellow-orange is a very common color combination (not specifically in 40k), and most other colours are a bit jarring added to them. Red would make too much vivid colours...

>> No.34539547

God dammit Fantasy has some nice models.

Seriously considering starting a VC model for all those cool big things, the boring part (core fodder) seems easy and quick to paint as well, bleached bone > devlan mud all day

>> No.34539647

looks great man, maybe a pole on the end of the roof would keep it up well enough? I love the ropes, the "old" look gives off a nice vibe.

indeed, it's models like these that makes me want to pick up some models.

>> No.34539781

nice scheme, reminds me borderlands a bit
for first minis, they are brilliant. You used highlights! way to go
needs hundreds of shit. Trust me if you are going pure gw, it will swallow your wallet. Otherwise good, but I think its not an easy army (at least for me)

>> No.34539968

Okay so I soaked 30 GW skeletons and corpse cart for about a week in simple green.

The paint is barely coming off and the skeletons are so ugly I almost stopped giving a shit about stripping them now.

If I let them dry and then throw my fucks out the windows and just prime over this shit will the primer overtop simple greened paint pretty much ensure the paint will rub off easily?

Brushing fragile skeletons is an exercise in tedium.

Im thinking just prime them white. Paint the shield and bows up and them dip them. They can be B Squad.

>> No.34540181

ultra sonic bath

>> No.34540506

I'm starting a new Tau army as well, and I was wondering what the recommended size is for a starter army? Right now I have one transport ship, one fire warrior team and two XV8's. Is that good or do I need another fire warrior box before it's a decent size

>> No.34540644

buy the battleforce i'd suggest, then get a HQ like shadowsun or farsight and a side ethereal for extra dakka and some heavy support options like hammerhead/xv-88's/riptide

>> No.34541091

The formula for simple green changed a bit yesterday. It's not quite as good as a miniature stripper anymore. So far, the best I've found is a similar product called "Super Clean". It's a degreaser and cleaner that's usually in the automotive section. The kind you want is the concentrated version; it comes in a 1 gallon, purple jug. Soak the minis for a week, scrub down, and that should take care of most of it.

If you use this product, WEAR GLOVES! Your skin will dry out and peel off if you don't.

>> No.34541125


...a week

>> No.34541126

>The formula for simple green changed a bit yesterday.

Yeah, yesterday. Changed a bit RECENTLY.

>> No.34541423

get one of those sonic cleaners hear they are the shit from tg

>> No.34541606

Do you have a link for theese sites? (Zanchui and CCON) my google skills lead me to nothing

>> No.34541610

What kind of brand is worth getting? Anything at a reasonable price?

>> No.34541644

That's what happens when you're too babby to use a real stripper like oven cleaner.

>> No.34541647



>> No.34541649

If it fucks up your skin, do we have to worry about it melting plastics?

>> No.34541670

If you leave it in too long (like a month), the plastic will get a bit soft.

>> No.34541699

Hi guys. Do you know of any guides for basing? I'm not sure what look I'm going for yet but I'd love a gallery of bases or some mediafire White Dwarf articles.

>> No.34541714

dono boss man, like I said WIP thread has been ravin about em for the last little bit

>> No.34541798

so lowpricewarhammer is reliable? How is the quality of the models?

>> No.34541822


That's Zhanchui. He's great. His models at small scale are great. At larger scale you run a small risk of thin casts but otherwise it's perfect quality.

>> No.34541872

Is he one of those recasters who does the whole model pre assembled or does he get every bit on the original sprue?

>> No.34541892


Original Sprues. He does NOT send instructions, however.

>> No.34541910

Which theme do you like more; skaven sacking an Empire city or vibrant Lizardmen marshes?

>> No.34541955


vibrant marsh

>> No.34542008

thanks, he's even cheaper than yoymart. Thinking of getting some grot tanks

>> No.34542013

>first 4 criteria
literally finecast

>> No.34542028


I will keep that in mind for next time, I actually already primed over the shoddy corpse cart and honestly it looks good as new (I presume, never seen it pristine before)


Ive stripped with this particular bottle of green stuff several times on some Battletech guys that went super smoothly after 2 days, just these skeletons man, dunno what the previous owner did but this paint will not come off easy. And scrubbing harder just results in broken pieces.

The skeletons were secondary to the purchase so I am gonna just prime over and see how it goes. If they suck I have 50 more to replace them anyway.



>> No.34542349

Does anyone know where a good place to get Jungle-themed Imperial Knight bases?

>> No.34542598

http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/bases-for-miniatures this place has a load of really neat bases.

>> No.34542782

Where might one find some tumbleweed flock for bases? Is there like a clearhinghouse for this kind of super specialty stuff?

>> No.34542951


I'll give them a look. Hope they have the 168mm knight bases.

>> No.34543075

How should I arm a Wolf Lord on a bike?

>> No.34543212

A space wolves wolf lord should be on a thunderwolf, and you should give him a pair of wolf claws, 2 fenrisian wolves and a wulfen stone

>> No.34543213

With a Wolfblade and Wolfshield or a pair of Wolfclaws.

>> No.34545597

Can you ever really have enough dreadnoughts?

>> No.34545713


>> No.34545773


>> No.34545808


Aww, they don't have knight bases. Thanks anyway...

>> No.34546067

Is there something like this but for the US?

>> No.34546342

I got some Tallarn in from Ebay. 4 lasgun wielders and an Autocannon. They need a good strip bath but when they're clean. When I go to base them should I use the natural sand color or should I actually paint it? Also how difficult would it be to convert 4 Cadians/Catachan to Tallarn?

>> No.34548432

Does anyone have that Countryball comic from the last thread?

>> No.34548461

Merry Christmas.

>> No.34548651


>> No.34548822

I recently acquired some highly used scout marine models and... just... "unmitigated glue holocaust" is the closest I can come to describing the current state of them. The previous owner appeared to have some kind of 'deathwatch scout' concept in mind, and the models were covered in haphazardly placed pistols and bits from various space marine kits. This would not be too much trouble, except for the fact that the half-built little assholes are absolutely devastated by plastic-glue wounds. I'm talking back of one of these fuckers looks like it was a hiroshima survivor. It's just awful. Any recommendations for salvaging similarly mangled models?

Oh, and they didn't scrape their frickin' mold lines either.

>> No.34548847

mutant rabble

>> No.34549237

Plastic glue is basically not fixable. Pry off the bitz that aren't rekt, use the scouts for basing or something.

>> No.34549667

Yep, at that point it's easier to sculpt the model from scratch. That's one of the many reasons why plastic inferior to metal, truly a babys first mini medium.

>> No.34550059

Damn. I think 2 out of the 5 are salvageable, but yeah, these other 3 might just have to become mangled corpses for someone else to clamber on.

>> No.34550309

I bought a trio of fimir from lowpricewarhammer once, they came to me within 3ish weeks and all parts were there. So yeah, I'd say he's legit.

>> No.34550404

Simple green is mostly water with very little isoproponol(this is what's breaking down the paint) Get a bottle of Super Clean(Castrol makes some, as do others, it's for degreasing engines) and use that instead. It wont damage plastic or resin, but it will dissolve super glue bonds, you can keep using the same bucket of spuer clean over and over and most importantly wear gloves, it is engine degreaser after all.

>> No.34550577

>wouldn't it look better if I cut open parts of the armor, and used a Skeleton Warriors parts as "filling"?
the legion of the damned already have that going on in some parts don't they

>> No.34550605

Of course he's cheaper. Yoymart sells his stuff + profit ...

>> No.34550952

Yoymart has free shipping, im not sure if this guy does

>> No.34551035

only for bulk buys (~320US)

>> No.34551048

No, he doesn't

>> No.34551073

CCON had free shipping, at least a while ago
Thebitskingdom.com, or something like that

>> No.34551170

CCON does free SAL shipping
Zhanchui only does EMS shipping

>> No.34551365

so how high are the shipping costs? Not willing to spend 300+ dollars on recasts.

>> No.34551449

any good paint holders, I've seen some stuff where a fella made shelves with 2x4's and some thin wood to make "lips" on the shelves, anything premade for a good price or is it best to build your own

>> No.34551614

>On a side note: is yoymart good? Legit enough to send them your money?

Seriously, I just don't get this kind of question these days. It 2014.

Buy a cheap special character or some shit that might be useful for bits for less than the price of a coffee, and see if it turns up. I did that, and my Konrad turned up fine.

Even if you make a big order, there are protections in place in the modern world for fakers and scammers. Paypal? Open a dispute over faulty goods. As long as you don't show yourself to BE the scammer, they are generally closed in the buyers favor.

Even with a bank card, you just say you believed you were buying legitimate goods, and were sent forgeries/knock offs. Bam, money back, I imagine.

Seriously, its not like you are mailing an envelope full of twenties to a dodgy looking Chinese address or something.

>> No.34551884

Gold, bright green and purple.

>> No.34552028

I stripped some old stuff I sprayed when I was 14. Apparently I used a non a acrylic based spray on some units and that shit hardly strips of with green stuff. I painted over it and it looks fine!

>> No.34552071

>> what is prince of nigeria

>> No.34552196

Finished with converting an Armourfast 20mm Stug III into a Stug 42 with magnetized schurzen.

>> No.34552229

>Stug 42

*StuH 42

Also a Panzer IV with magnetized long and short 75mm guns. Kit didn't come with its own schurzens, so I just made the StuG ones mountable on this as well.

>> No.34552261

come on anon, they are too small, make something with plasticard that doesn't look like the texture is too fancy

>> No.34552303

I meant as in shipping costs and quality of the casts, but you're right.

>> No.34552405

$ 21 for a $ 70 order. To Europe.

>> No.34552436

Something like this?
>damn, it already ended

>> No.34552696


With a large enough section of card couldnt you just cut out a schurzen sized card file it a bit to round the edges and be good to go? Could even file out the plate joints in the same way with a straight file.

>> No.34552720

Just washing my bugs

>> No.34552827

Maybe in the future. My tools for accurate plasticard cutting are quite shitty at the moment. Since the wheels where the magnets are on both the stug and the panzer are at identical spacing, mounting the same plate on both worked without any extra hassle. It's just a stopgap solution at the moment to have at least something there. Our local group isn't that anal about little details. Looking at the model from the size the schurzen does cover the hull all the way except for the traction wheel.

>> No.34553235


Do the undercloth either a dark grey. You're not leaving it black so it won't look unpainted, but if the shade is dark enough it'll fade into the background next to your other colours

>> No.34553452

rate my grot

>> No.34553685

Man, priming nids white and then just wash em seems so much easier then giving them a proper basecoat ...

>> No.34553692

>basic but effective techniques used
>remove mold lines from the head
>correct yellow mispaintings on gun
>highlight the base

the mold lines. please guys pay a lot of attention to remove mold lines because they can fuck up even the most pretty painting. it just bothers your eyes.
otherwise good job, I assume it didn't take too long, but its still effective with those washes and highlights.

>> No.34553862

Just finished these.

>> No.34553927


Very nice. Better than my work.

>> No.34553996

Nice. So clean.

>> No.34553999

thanks, gonna order some stuff and if it looks as good as people say I might order more

>> No.34554028

Neat, wings in particular.

>> No.34554040

looks real good, very, very nice paintjob

>> No.34554164


I'd actually argue a little too clean. Fantastic of course, but this is Warhammer. things being a little grungy, even artificial, is part of the aesthetic. Being too clean gives them an almost cell-shaded look, if i were to use computer graphics as an example.

>> No.34554184

Anyone else doing this?

>> No.34554203

Painting question:
I want to build and paint an Imperial Fist breacher company (MK III/Breachers/Cataphractii and other heavy assault stuff).
The thing is, how hard is painting yellow with the new GW range?
Also, any good yellow basecoat spray you can recommend?

>> No.34554390

>how hard is painting yellow with the new GW range?
No offence, but this has more to do with your ability as a painter than the paints you use.

>Also, any good yellow basecoat spray you can recommend?
Personally never used their yellow, but the Army Painter one seems extremely popular. I used their varnish and a blue/grey primer though and if those are any indicator AP spraycans are worth their money.

>> No.34554633

Guys can I get a source on this? Google image search isn't working for me ATM

>> No.34554655

Oh, the guy who posted that pic before also posted this one

>> No.34554734

>Guys can I get a source on this?
>Oh, the guy who posted that pic before also posted this one
Source is a /tg/ WIP thread then obviously...
I remember when he posted these too. You can try looking through foolz or something like like that, but google won't find anything if he didn't post them anywhere else but here.

>> No.34554828


>> No.34554909

>remove mold lines
You are talking to people that aren't allowed to posses/use a knife, though.

>> No.34554922

wash on the arms/muscles could have been a bit better, but overall pretty solid paintjob

>> No.34554934

always wanted to, never found the time to do a full display

>> No.34554940

That's why the good lord gave us files, anon.

>> No.34555247

I had trouble with the previous range of GW whites and yellows, and the new whites are great and much easier to paint well. Didn't try the yellows, so I am asking. I will try the army painter yellow

>> No.34555380

>Didn't try the yellows, so I am asking.
Fair enough. Check this out, might clear some things up. I'd also consider priming white and using inks or even the GW paints they use here to paint the yellow.
Reason for using inks being that they usually have much finer and stronger pigments.

>> No.34555394

Forgot to post the link of course, like the idiot I am. Sorry.
http://taleofpainters.blog spot de/2012/04/review-citadel-paint-range.html

>> No.34555456

Thank you

>> No.34555700


>> No.34556003


what is CCON? what is the difference between EMS and SAL?

>> No.34556364

Didn't get any feedback last time, so posting again

>> No.34556492


>> No.34556671

It's cool

>> No.34556738

I don't like nids, nice paint job tho.

>> No.34556821

maybe a bit more highlighting on the black. The "armor" looks really nice though.

>> No.34556859

I got my Eisenkern but not the Imperial Bits I need to make my allied detachment. Hopefully I'll get them tomorrow so I can start making muh army and taking pictures.

>> No.34556971

I did base, wash, highlight and then brighter highlight on the skin,. Think the varnish at it up, at least in the pic

>> No.34557546

is there anything in the rules about which size base you have to use? Like could you put an infantry character on a terminator base or vice versa? I'm not looking for gameplay advantage, it's just that I made a pretty sweet base but have nothing to put on it.

>> No.34557603

maybe they are in prison ...

>> No.34557646

All I can find is Pg 3 of the main rule book (its from 2012, not sure if its changed or not) -


Citadel miniatures are normally supplied with a plastic base. If so, they must be glued onto their bases before they can be used in the game.

Some players like to mount their models on impressive scenic bases. As mounting your models on different-sized bases might affect the way they interact with the rules, make sure before the game that your opponent does not mind.

>> No.34557670

Zanchui = lowpricewarhammer
CCON = coolcastornot = thebitskingdom

>what is the difference between EMS and SAL?
Now this is a stupid question.
EMS = Express Mail Service
SAL = Sea Air Land (Air, lol ... good one) containers on ships

>> No.34557822

Anybody play BFG here? Trying to get a close estimate to how many points of Eldar I have.
Large class: 1 aurora, 2 void stalkers, 3 shadows, 3 eclipse
Medium class: 8 hellebores, 6 hemlocks
Light class: 12 aconites, something around 12 shades
About to strip them and put some effort into making it look like a fantastic force. Thinking of putting them on ebay afterward but it's such a cool army

>> No.34557929

thats alot of points

>> No.34557991

>put some effort into making it look like a fantastic force. Thinking of putting them on ebay afterward
Why on earth would you paint them, just to put them on ebay again?
Strip them and they will be worth more if you want to sell them again. If you paint them keep them. Even if you just have a passing interest in BFG keep them. You'll probably never be able to get models for it for a reasonable price again.

>> No.34558030

I've been painting for close to 16 years now, I'd hope to get more money by having them fully painted with fancy flight bases.

>> No.34558126

Yeah well, I'm not saying your painting would 'devalue' them.
But the fact is most people don't start looking on ebay because they want somebody else's collections. They want to expand their own.
So even if you painted them well they are more likely than not end up in a bin of simple green again, simply because the models are OOP and hard to get now.
Just saying.

>> No.34558218

You're right, I for one would rather buy a baremetal model than have to dip it but there are alot of people who don't enjoy painting at all and would rather have a complete model so Im kinda torn

>> No.34558280

You could strip them and find someone who wants to buy them painted and paint them as they wish.

>> No.34558322

That's a good suggestion but the only foreseeable problem is that I paint slowly. If somebody's interested it'd make me more money however.

>> No.34558340

Soul Brotha plasma vet is done (sorry no Nike's this time).
Probably wont go as dark on the skin next time, make him look kinda ashy. The poor lighting doesnt help the photo either.

>> No.34558352

Has somebody mixed Wargames Factory and GW Skeletons? Wonder how they look in one unit.

>> No.34558365

nice man! good job on the face!

>> No.34558377

>Soul Brotha plasma vet
Haircut, wristband, red ribbon and the bad attitude make him look like Mr. T to me. Nice work.

>> No.34558384

>aftermath of a failed Gets Hot! roll

>> No.34558435


Ill be mixing Wargames Factory, Mantic and GW Skeletons.

The WGF and Mantic ones go together fine.

I have the old poop GW ones that have ridiculous heads so they will look odd.

>> No.34558468

My librarian

>> No.34558487

He didn't just forget his pants this morning...

>> No.34558536

Nope. Im making a Blood Angels force, and really trying to max out "space vampires", by including a lot of Vampire Counts shit.

>> No.34558585

lowpricewarhammer seems dead, my email bounced yesterday, could not be delivered.

coolcast dont have any terrainpieces.

Is there any other fine chinaman doing gods work?

>> No.34558705

>and really trying to max out "space vampires", by including a lot of Vampire Counts shit.
Commendable, but Wraiths are only remotely connected to Vampires thanks to the Fantasy equivalent.
Hate to be a naysayer, but if you watch Bram Stokers Dracula with Gary Oldman you'll see where the inspiration for the BA Artificer armor came from. I'd rather steal ideas from there and the classical Vampire mythos, because honestly, if you hadn't said it I would have not understood what you were trying to do here.
That said it's an interesting conversion non the less.

>> No.34558772

That would get smited soon as anything wearing the "I" saw it, legion or not
That said, I would like to see it on the table.

>> No.34558865




Yeah he does look morel ike Mr. T doesnt he. I should have tried to put those gold chains on him or at least made his wristband gold.



Just trying to a decent job on these dudes, GW will probably change the IG's model or go bankrupt by the time I get done painting them all.

>> No.34558942

>GW will probably change the IG's model or go bankrupt by the time I get done painting them all.
>tfw I have an entire unpainted Oldcron army lying around including the LE Lord that came with the Megaforce
>tfw I don't like the new models
>tfw I don't like the new fluff
>tfw I can't sell them either
>tfw they will sit there another few years until I can deal with all the emotional pain inflicted unto my fragile heart by GW

>> No.34558945

Oh my, a cairn wraith.

>> No.34559107


desert base tutorial I found:


>> No.34559167

Yeah. It will be pretty much renegades. Ill call the chapter the blood dragons.

Here is an attack bike. I'm going to take the ghost skeletons riders from the coven throne and add it to the side.

>> No.34559192

Check this out you wonderful people:
It's an entire catalog of roadkill miniatures. This shit is hilarious. They even got the easterbunny and some roswell greys in there.

>> No.34559438

paint them, make a blog, make it an event
I get offers thrown at me all the time.

>> No.34559488

Are you sure? I had mail contact with him up until two days ago.
What was the error message? Maybe his provider is just blacklisted at yours.

>> No.34559521


He probably messed up a number, it works fine but people always blame computers.

>> No.34559558

Do you prefer to base before or after painting? Specifically for simple sand bases.

>> No.34559563

awesome for scale car displays
If only they'd say the scale somewhere ... any idea?

>> No.34559586

before, primer will seal the sand a bit more, which is always good

>> No.34559613

Think I needed to be more specific.

Do you glue the miniature to the base before basing it or over the basing? I've had troubles with the latter (minis getting ripped off the base with the basing)

>> No.34559640


sent from hotmail/outlook

>> No.34559645

from their shop
>All figures are compatible with the following scales. 28mm, 1:48, and model train "O"

>> No.34559653

>oh ... wow
What is copy/paste?

>> No.34559719

I do it this way
>glue mini to base (plastic cement on plastic on plastic, and superglue, putty and pins if necessary on metal)
>glue sand on with white glue
>let dry
>dillute glue 1:1 with water and seal the sand
>let dry
Do the second pass with glue because I'm paranoid like that.

>> No.34559750

I have an airbrush, so it was pretty easy to do all the basecoats. If I didn't have one I'd absolutely just wash them.

>> No.34559772

if you put a little bit of plasticard or something under the feet they won't look like they are sinking into the sand.

>> No.34559773

Depends on the kind of basing.
I do mud and yes, I glue them to the base before doing the base. Even before painting.

One reason why I glue them to the base before I make the mud on the base: I want them to be in the basing/setting. I don't want to glue them onto the basing. They need to be surrounded by the basing, not on top.

>> No.34559808



are you too fucking stupid to distinguish a small l with a big I?

it's ldk, as in LDK

GOD, FUCK ... You're too fucking stupid to copy the adress from the website and paste it into the email field ...

>> No.34559826

Your models always makes me want to continue my miniatures... How did you do the mud? You probably posted it before, but I don't remember it. Would a less thick version work for a sand/beach base?

>> No.34559934


Thanks guys, guess I'll start glueing them to the base before basing then. Hope it prevents the figure from falling off and ripping the basing with it in case of an accident

>> No.34559950

>are you too fucking stupid to distinguish a small l with a big I?
lol, to me it looked like a big i

>GOD, FUCK ... You're too fucking stupid to copy the adress from the website and paste it into the email field
I have no fucking idea how to copy a picture into the email no.....

>> No.34559973

I made several tutorials, yeah.

>Would a less thick version work for a sand/beach base?
idk, really. Would have to try.

>> No.34559981

The important thing here is that lowpricewarhammer probably isn't dead.

>> No.34559994

>to me it looked like a big i
Not the other guy, but that's why there are serifs on the letters. Just look at them. Angled mean lower case L straight means upper case I.

>> No.34560032

thanks krieg guy

>> No.34560056

These aremy latest works ATM. Need to get the rest of there squad done but so far, not bad. Also got pictures of a rune priest which i converted to show you guys in a second. Need to put it on my PC first

>> No.34560107

Just need to find a wolf guard cape for him then it'll be sent to the painting line next!

>> No.34560109

Internet is a new thing for you, uh?

>> No.34560134

You're welcome, Soldier #34560032

>> No.34560205

Could anyone recommend a simple base (cheap) and a beginners eye tutorial?

Thanks for the anon who gave me the confidence to hand paint the pads. I even went ahead and painted terminator honors on the legs of one of term.


>> No.34560217

No well groomed beard. Not even brushed.
>absolutely heretical.jpg
This offends me on a deep personal level.

>> No.34560230

and 2/2

Also, pimping power sword guides also welcome. I was thinking some green highlights/effects.

>>right terminator, left leg

>> No.34560294

Well I remember seeing on one of those GW painitng tutorials on youtube where the bloke used a glaze over a white to do his.
Should be that one there (Sorry if it's not embedded, Still quite new to replying on here :/)

>> No.34560333

I'm not really sure where else to ask and /po/ is slow as hell, but can someone who can actually operate a computer change the color on this from Ultramarines to Blood Angels? (Blacking out the symbols would be awesome too)

>> No.34560334

Nice work on the freehands.

Painting eyes on termies is pretty easy actually, since they kind of stand out of the helmet. Just take smaller brush or be careful to paint with just the very tip and paint the top and side of their lenses. If you get some on the 'cheekbones' just go back with a little white and clean it up again.

>Also, pimping power sword guides also welcome.
Snoop around a little on CMON maybe. There are quite a few different takes on what the energy field on a power weapon looks like.
Personally like the version where the blade is painted silver and the little nub emanates lightning that spreads over the blade. Though I always just painted them like ordinary swords.

>> No.34560338

Does Zanchui use paypal? I'd like to buy something but I'm terrified of the idea of my credit card info getting stolen.

>> No.34560382


>> No.34560478

Did you ever take a close look at M and W. I think there's something up with them too.

>> No.34560505

Heh Heh Heh. Guess vampires really don't have souls.

>> No.34560514

what about p and q?

>> No.34560516


>> No.34560553

If you had the original images or vector data sure thing. As pdf? Nope.

>> No.34560662


Man just convert the thing back to a text editor file and use some paint bucket function on any random image editor, even paint.

>> No.34560663

Really? There's no way to do a simple color swap? I know nothing about tech but I thought .pdfs could be converted

>> No.34560752

It won't let me even convert it to a Word file without paying for some subscription on Adobe

>> No.34560780


>actually using adobe

Yeah, I'm not going to send you to a not-retarded tool for legal reasons but they aren't hard to find at all.

>> No.34560911

Skaven theme-
Empire graveyard or town
Pretty lizardmen marsh

>> No.34560965

Bought my last 40k model there, a tervigon, like, half of it didn't fit together, but it wasn't 60$ and with some warping, melting and sanding it all turned out ok. Then I stopped playing 40k cause of the new Nid codex.

>> No.34560995


>actually using adobe

Yeah, I'm not going to send you to a not-retarded tool for legal reasons but they aren't hard to find at all.

>> No.34561055

Then why not be a good Samaritan and just convert the above file?

>> No.34561144

what are you asking for?

>> No.34561287

a Z is just an N that's fallen over.

>> No.34561302

Is there a place to get Elysian drop troop legs for cheap? I could only find full kits from Yoymart.

>> No.34561303

Finally finished sanding and magnetizing my DW Australians. Getting rid of that layer of junk resin on the bottom of DW hulls is a huge pain in the ass, and is easily my least favorite part of the process. Going to paint these in an olive green, and a couple will get shark mouths painted on them. I've also got a couple of those new GW weathering paints to try on them. The island they're on is also a WIP- going to be a photo backdrop for my DW minis.

>> No.34561359

a miniature house would be cool to see on the island I think

>> No.34561462


>uploading word files
>to 4chan

Ironically it would have to be converted back to pdf to be posted. This is kids level stuff though.

>> No.34561489

Making a 2500 point skaven army but I can't decide between an Empire crypt theme or a hollow based water effect filled Lustrian marsh with a dead carnosaur unit filler using the newer large chariot. Plan is to use that unit filler but use long rank and file 20x20 bases to put the tail and legs that need to be cut but still have some of the unit walking around it/climbing over it/eating it if I'm going to go the whole 9 yards I want to green stuff a giant rat eating the carnosaur's eyeball

>> No.34561536

I like the water effect idea

>> No.34561541

Is there much of an advantage to using a wet palette? A couple of people had recommended them to me recently.
It didn't seem that expensive to make one with a sponge and a bit of paper in some tupperware.

>> No.34561556

Then as a favor to another, technologically inept anon?

>> No.34561616

Basically it allows you to mix paints and keep it consistent across large batches of models.
Plus, having a longer working time never hurts.

>> No.34561711

Only problem is I'm going to have to cut out every base's top from the walls and then glue the bottoms of the base to thin plasticard. The water effect fills in perfectly. ALOT of work for around 200 bases.

>> No.34561777




>> No.34561917

Yo, does anyone know if converting Necron Warriors to Immortals or Deathmarks looks ok? I was thinking of getting a box of each and just making every loadout the Immortals box makes.

>> No.34562073

>$5 for 5 20x20 bases
The larger bases are a godsend however.

>> No.34562307

there are cheaper ones, just google round lip bases or something like that

>> No.34562484

Do you have to fill in the whole base? I mean a marsh isn't 100% water. Just cut little puddles and such into the bases, put a plasticard on the inside of the base (not under it, just under the "top" of it) and put a drop of the water effect you want on there. If it's march water, it's bound to be quite opaque. Even more so, if there's going to be blood from the carnosaur mixed in. Then just flock around the puddles. I doubt you even have to give every base a puddle to get that march feel. Also, make some filler bases with larger puddles.

I'm making a full Slaanesh Chaos army with marble cobblestone basing out of plasticard. That is, each base is hand crafted with dozens of little plasticard pieces I've cut myself, then chiseled and worn down to give it the look. By a quick calculation there's going to be about 220 bases of various sizes to be made.

>> No.34562753

I'd follow a different approach.
Of course you can use a drill and a template. Put a base in the template (so the base sits centered every time) and drill carefully so the walls don't break or bend.

Or you could just find a ring to use as the wall.

I'd make a mold and make the whole base with the water effect stuff and just paint the wall - or not.

>> No.34563343

>Get LoIS carriers
>These things look awesome, can't wait to see how they look once I've painted EVERY detail on them
>open it up and get a good look at all the pieces
>thousand yard stare

>> No.34563813

Did soem building and minor converting today after finihsing up this plasma guy

I'm building some of the melta vets now, here's the first one.

>> No.34563994 [DELETED] 

Absolute rookie new painter here, Starting a IG army and I want to test out color schemes and practice painting, picking up the 5 man snap together Cadians and I'm going for a jungle Camo scheme for the pants like in pic related. I think Steel Legion Drab might be a bit too light for that dark brown. what would be a good slightly darker alternative?

>> No.34564023

Drill the barrel, FFS. Also don't like the knife very much, it looks closer to Orky or Catachan size than proportional to Cadian.

>female head
>no difference in chest size visible under standard issue armor
I'm okay with that.

>> No.34564087

Absolute rookie new painter here, Starting a IG army and I want to test out color schemes and practice painting, picking up the 5 man snap together Cadians and I'm going for a jungle tiger stripe camo scheme for the pants like in pic related. I think Steel Legion Drab might be a bit too light for that dark brown. what would be a good slightly darker alternative?

>> No.34564113

*dark for that light brown

>> No.34564289

what head is that? I too wish to such conversions(possibly with slightly trimmed torso to shrink the shoulder width

>> No.34564307


>barrel drilled

> odd knife
I think this is an old SM scout knife.Yes its a bit large, but these are vets who source weapons from the battlefield and other places so its probably gonna stay.

>female with no chest enhancement

I figured the flak armor is heavy enough and the uniform baggy enough (just like in real life) to not have to worry about this. I am pleased with the scale of the head though. The dude who makes these has some awesome sculpts and I plan on getting more as the ol' wallet permits. I I used a body and legs from the CCS sprue since they are a smidge smaller than the regular cadian sprue. I bet the forgeworld stuff would like good, but thats way out of my price range.

>> No.34564340


they're the heroic scale head from statuesque miniatures.


The dude has alot of good sculpts that I hope he reproduces in the heroic scale. It's a bit expensive for me since I dont live in Europe though.

>> No.34564612

I didn't know where to post this, so I figured it'd go here. Found this at a used bookstore. What the actual fuck.

Taken with a potato camera.

>> No.34564635

Bring it the fuck home.

>> No.34564709


Jesus christ.

>> No.34564737


>> No.34564902


Take it. Purge it with acetone. Cleanse it with with purifying unguents that it may be remade into a less abominable form.

Be it resin, it will melt away to find its peace in the oblivion between form, to be one with nothing as its shell is torn asunder and the spirit freed the prison of defiled plastic.

Be it metal, it will survive in hardened and pure metal and be reborn anew, stronger having survived its abominable form. However, it will be forever tainted by the shadow of its perversion, it's desecration, nay, VIOLATION, and return the stronger for its experience. For so we find ourselves marked with scars through the journey of life, the tissue grows back stronger, the metal of our mettle hammered by experience and tempered in pain, for we cannot hope to remake ourselves without suffering: we are both the sculptor and the marble.

As a sculptor, it really irks me when tasteless shit like this happens.

>> No.34565079

This is gonna take forever

>> No.34565200


Nice bedsheets.

>> No.34565310

What the fuck. What the fuck even. Waht.

>> No.34565339

maybe use more then 4 colors

>> No.34565760

wait a min. Is that half priced books in Columbus?

>> No.34565798

I bought the harlequin Troupe there, *shudders*

>> No.34565861

I literally saw that the other day. I got the space marine bikes that are now ork bikes. Small world

>> No.34565877

Soldiery or Guard Tower?

>> No.34565918

Guard Tower, that's not even an option. I hardly play out there anymore. I'll be at Boltgun Battles though

>> No.34565969

Never heard of Boltgun Battles. New to the 40k scene in Columbus. Usually a roleplayer.

>> No.34566069

Here's me going 'fuck it, I don't know what do' before collapsing in face of the task of paiting hde unpainted parts. As for the rest of inquisitorial warband... what's a good alternative to black-n-red scheme?

>> No.34566109

Shit, what's with all these Columbus folk all of the sudden?

Either of you guys go to OSU?

>> No.34566123

Fuck yes I do motherfucker.

>> No.34566132


why does jesus has breasts ?

>> No.34566139

as of a few years ago, it was great. I've made lots of friends through gaming here. Boltgun Battles is an annual tourney in Newark. It's hosted by a local guy who's really cool. My buddies and I go up to Chicago every year for a big team tourney too.

If you ever want a game, I'm happy to oblige, although I don't know 7th edition like the back of my hand (unlike 3rd-5th).

>> No.34566172

I did. I've always said Columbus has a crazy gaming scene. The quality of players is high here too.

>> No.34566231

I haven't played since 5th, when I had my SoB army. I've been slowly rebuilding it, about to put in a 400$ order with the chinaman.

>> No.34566287

well I need practice too so email me sometime. We ran sisters up in chicago a few years back. I made a mold for the repressor kit

>> No.34566360

holy fucking shit, seriously? I have been looking for a repressor mold, since no chinamen have recasts of it.

>> No.34566417

I don't know how well it aged and I'm out of resin at the moment but I could probably whip up a few for you. I take payment in bits or microbrews

>> No.34566431

the termies for my kill team.

>> No.34566447

my unforgiven kill team is starting to come together. just have two more marines to go and then i'm good.

>> No.34566460

Silver armour with green cloth.

>> No.34566496

I'm sure we can figure something out! Shoot me an email

>> No.34566782

For whatever reason, I've started painting my Super dungeon Explore models, and I must say I'm having fun with it. The big chunky details give you a surprising amount of freedom while still being reasonably easy to paint.

Anyway, these are the three I have done so far (though I might go back and highlight the bronze on the sorceress). Gonna try to do one every day after work until I have all the core heroes done, then maybe see about the minions.

>> No.34567259

I have various kinds of gun metal... we'll, I'll se how it goes!

>> No.34567403

these are mien models brah. I havent posted pics of them outside of /tg/ but one time i posted them and a guy said he saw them posted on horus heresy online (or something like that).

>> No.34567408

My only complaint is the eyes.

>> No.34567437

Care to elaborate? I'm still trying to puzzle out how to do anime eyes on a model, so any pointers would be appreciated.

>> No.34567491

Right, I remember that as well, I don't know that site tho.
btw I got the other pics using foolz

>> No.34567860

Idunno.. I've honestly never painted weeabu models such as those. However looking at your chibi kaway QTchu of choice it should be pretty standard.

>> No.34567880

What'd I tell you abour them shoulder shields bro just get some sweet pads there are so many to choose from

>> No.34568665

Thudd gun rapier

Thunderfire cannon's barrel+rapier hull

>> No.34568697

What legion are you bro?

>> No.34568917

Iron hands for Mechanicum allied

>> No.34568965


>> No.34569029

Welp, definitely going Mantic if I ever start doing skellingtons. Thanks for the lineup.

>> No.34569148

I've left plastics in Castrol Super Clean for 6 weeks and never had any problems. It will debond cheap super clue joins, but doesn't harm epoxy or green stuff / resin epoxy work at all. You definitely want rubber gloves (like for kitchen work) and perhaps safety glasses so you don't get the stuff in your eyes. Otherwise this stuff is fine.

>> No.34569307



>> No.34569463

Is that Eldrad Jebus?

>> No.34569642

Dear /tg/,

I'm currently saving up money to get started on a new army, and I've decided on Salamanders because fire and lizards.
But because I believe in customization of armies, I'm planning to make bits out of green-stuff to put on some models (mostly sergeants). Problem is, I have little-to-no experience with greenstuff (I've only ever filled gaps with it), so I'm worried about how it's going to turn out.
My plan is to make things like hanging cloths coated in scales and hanging fang-necklaces a-la Forgeworld's Salamanders upgrade kits.
I'm not asking for a step-by-step "this is how to make exactly what you want", I just want a few tips on sculpting greenstuff from anyone who's done it before so I can start practicing without doing it all wrong.

>> No.34570349

>implying painting little plastic men is less nerdy than sleeping in SW merchandise

>> No.34570514

progress on the head

>> No.34570524

Any suggestions for quick/decent paint schemes for cultists? I have 70 I need to paint up...

>> No.34570626

Mah Knight

>> No.34570744

You still haven't given your canada knight a hockey stick.

>> No.34570770

Drop pod, planning to do the same scheme on my traitor guard tanks.

>> No.34570924

Homemade dreadclaw?

>> No.34570946

Kinda, im just runnign it as a standard drop pod in my Khorne wolves lists

>> No.34571111

Looks amazing.

>> No.34571182

Really you did dat shit? Looks great m8

>> No.34571242

I can't wait to get mine ;_;

>> No.34571766

Dudes talking about Columbus; you mean in GA? Just got to Benning and I'm looking for a reason/motivation to finish my stupid huge Spess Maroon army.

Also, can I get some recommendations for a spray primer? I had a can of Krylon white indoor/outdoor primer+paint that I tried on a test mini. Came out really fuzzy, though. Never figured if it was the paint or I that fucked up. Had to leave it in Korea.

>> No.34572333

I am become death, destroyer of worlds.

>> No.34572398


It's over. It's all over.

>> No.34572562

>be at base
>suddenly webway portal opens
>"Have you heard of our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ"
>every fucking Sunday!

>> No.34572877

What are some good blues from the new citadel range to get for painting some cloth on my word bearers? I'm thinking 3-4 different ones to get a good color progression going on.

>> No.34572893

Steady progress on Mr. Lupercal.

>> No.34572926

am painting Mortarion for a friend

>> No.34572946


here's a real Canada knight :P

>> No.34573028

some inspiration

>> No.34573049


>> No.34573139

Why not ebay? People sell everything and anything!

>> No.34573163

I didn't mean I can't sell it as in I have no means to get rid of it. I just can't bring myself to bury the idea I had for that army.

>> No.34573292

yeah, well, I just got a mail from Zanchui
but we already confirmed your stupidity.

Anyway: the Gorgon is on the way

>> No.34573333

I use the fluid used in break systems in cars to remove paint from plastics.

Leave it in a jar with the stuff for 24 hours or so and it should come off easily.

>> No.34573503

well fucking done ser

>> No.34573527

new thread when?

>> No.34573680

Please respond, I wanna place my order

>> No.34573811

I entered a 2 or 3 years ago with my fully converted Skitarii army (counts as Crons in those days) going through a ruined city with a big sewage canal at the front. It went to games day, but only because no one else from my store entered. They were painted like arse compared to how I paint now but I was happy seeing my project being looked at by a bunch of people!

I don't have pics sadly.

>> No.34573920

Just about to start my own stompa (pic related, didn't like the horns so i added more dakka), any tips?

>> No.34573955

Almost done

>> No.34573967

Are you using acrylics for that, Anon?

>> No.34574013


>> No.34574145

What am I looking at, a custom painted card?

>> No.34574265


>> No.34574352

I like it

>> No.34574393

>any tips

Mo' dakka.

>> No.34574511

>any tips?
Can't go wrong with angry eyebrows.

>> No.34574548


Awesome (esp the first one) The only thing that I can't seem to wrap my head around is highlighting over a camo pattern. You don't really need it in that instance do you?

>> No.34574577

>You don't really need it in that instance do you?
You don't 'need' the camo either. But it looks better with it.
But the easiest way to do it is to use washes to shade everthing after you've painted the camo. If the wash is too strong though it washes the camo pattern out so don't just slather it own.

>> No.34574593

Yeah, that would work.

>> No.34574907

there's more from this guy

>> No.34574917


>> No.34574965


>> No.34575002

Should have paid more attention to the direction of the pattern on the sleeves though. Really bothers me for some reason.

>> No.34575324

So, I'm trying to kitbash some CSM autocannons, and this is the best I've come up with so far. Tips and tutorials requested.

>> No.34575392

My suggestion is Chinaman or 3rd party bits seller like http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_78&product_id=273

>> No.34575453

Or this if you are willing to spent a little more.

I just recently noticed that the CSM autoguns look a lot like the Smartguns from Aliens. Never noticed that before.

>> No.34576913

Horde cunt destroyers assembled

>> No.34577220

New thread?

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