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[ERROR] No.34506670 [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

So, I was able to get rid of the glue with my ultrasonic cleaner and simple green, at least most of it.
My question now is, should the claws be fixed or moveable?

>> No.34506701


>> No.34506712

Its already autosaging.

>> No.34506867

Movable. Gotta go full toy mode.

>> No.34506904

Oh I see, because one claw is glued together, the other one isnt, so I wasnt quite sure about that.

>> No.34506918

if you think you'd rather have them the same or different, it's your choice. Glued might be easier to handle when you're painting it and could prevent the paint from wearing off. It really doesn't matter much in the end.

>> No.34506965

Oh yeah, Im trying to magnetize both head weapons and the head / torso itself, my 5x2 magnets havent arrived yet, though.

But I wasnt sure about claws, I got this one from ebay and never assembled one of these.

>> No.34506989

Me neither

>> No.34507069

Putting some old school Warzone Imperials together, I'm too tired to fiddle with the arms right now, so I'll post the W.I.P shot then go to bed, I'll continue this shit in the morning.

>> No.34507124

So after assembling 40 clan rats and a dozen beers I made these sweet fuckers last night.

>> No.34507143

>we traded weapons, and he found this thing in the pit and welded it to his head.
>sewage is a hell of a drug

>> No.34507247

>Bro! Like, someone took all the blades and all was left were shields! So I covered myself in shields!
>Really? All I found was blades! No shields in sight!

>> No.34507275

Dope as fuck, mang.

>> No.34507290

I am become blade.
All shall fear my pointyness.

>> No.34507316

Movable. It helps make the model fit in or around terrain. Also, I recommend magnetizing the turret to make it easier to transport

>> No.34507353

>How about we trade somes so we can both enjoy our parry save?
>Nah man, I'd better be cool than safe.

>> No.34507358

Protip: tripple power fist power scourge master race

>> No.34507374

No thanks, this looks like shit, at least for me, just as retarded as this flail thing

>> No.34507403

>I just have to be extra careful of noth falling on my back..
>Your fucking problem mate, I keep tripping on those blades.

>> No.34507438

God damn, this part is glued together so tightly, not evne Solid Green could break it, but fuck, I cant let it stay like that.

>> No.34507514

Just getting started, gonna try and post regular updates untill hes done.

>> No.34507557


>> No.34507568

and this is before /tg/ started helping me...

>> No.34507642

bought the catacomb command barge/anihilation barge and just started assembling yesterday.

Got this guy first, and the box came with the instructions for the lychguards/praetorians. Does anyone have the pdf for the CCM? I contactd GW, but they will send me an answer in two days I think

>> No.34507694

Looking fucking great, man. I really like the rusty effect.

>> No.34507807

Finished and based a wraithguard and DA, will probably add some army painter grss tufts when they arrive though

>> No.34507813

I don't know why but my first thought seeing those guys was "necrons working boring office desk job" not "necron pilot".

I don't know what that says about me.

>> No.34507877


Looking good. Although those legs need some fixing.

I'm working with a little oxide myself, pic related

>> No.34507913

"Here I am, waiting for my shift to end"
Yeah, I cannot unsee that

>> No.34508073


>> No.34508099

>5.5 MB, 5184x3456

>> No.34508159

want me to take the pictures with my phone instead.

>> No.34508176

just resize them in paint

>> No.34508187

>living in the third world

>> No.34508253

Wip on some boyz and a nob I'm doing in my free time today. This is how they look before I slap all that warpaint and detail on them.

Again my appologies for bad lighting. I assure you there are eyes in there somewhere.

>> No.34508261

that takes way to much effort, I just upload them directly from the camera.

>> No.34508271

>Angry Birdos

>> No.34508283

Yeah. Don't.

>> No.34508297

I'd recommend drilling those barrells, love them otherwise.

>> No.34508303

>that takes way to much effort
Just takes two seconds. If you take the time to take a picture and upload it for other to watch and feedback take another second to crop out the 90% of the image that is your room.
>takes to much effort
just makes you sound like a jerk. And makes me think watching this crap takes way too much effort.

>> No.34508321

The flesh tones look good, but try touching up the Leather and Blades.

Base the leather in Rhinox Hide, then highlight the edges with some XV-88. Dry brushing the XV-88 will also look decent instead.

As for the metal Base with Tin bitz. Mix that with Boltgun 50/50 dry brush the edged bit on yer choppaz. Then highlight the tips of the blade so it looks sharpened.

Looks snazzy when ya do it right.

>> No.34508327

Here. I made it a ton better. Took me a minute or so.

>> No.34508346

well I apologise then, I really dont see the problem. When im done with the model ill upload a nice image of it with a white background. But really I thought WIP ment that it was going to be rough cut.

>> No.34508365

it does look better

>> No.34508375

haha I knew someone would pick up on this they're my totally ebin speakers
None of these barrels are drilled right now ; - ; . I plan to do a mass drilling and basing session when I get my shit together. Thanks though!

>> No.34508395

Seriously nobody minds bad pictures, we see them all the time, but the answer came off... unfortunate.

>> No.34508594

My ork leather is usually based in rhinox then highlighted with doombull brown and a wee bit of tuskgor fur. I got lazy since my army suddenly grew by about 130 boyz but aye youre right I shouldn't be so lazy with the nobz, I will go back and touch up their leather.

Alsoo I like my metal to look hella old so do not fear, I will be going in with the ol' typhus corrosion, rust and highlighting in runefang when the time for detailing comes.

And it shall come....

>> No.34508603

someone posted the other day their 1ksons and was saying how much a pain their helmets were. yup they are hardmode, i agree now.
this guy needs some clean up and washes, but this is wip thread,and just realized i missed his sword handle.

>> No.34508646

here we go. Im out for dinner, be back in an hour.
If anyone has any tips on how to highlight a pointy helmet it would be much appreciated.

>> No.34508652

Try using .jpg

>> No.34508854

Fuck you, you piece of shit, I will get rid of you, If you like it or not, fuck!

>> No.34508968

First time doing a Tau vehicle and I've been putting off finishing it for months. Changed the colour scheme half way through as well which didn't help the crew, I can see lumps and shit all over the thing now. Should probably just get an airbrush for future vehicles.

>> No.34509081

I have been painting up these little bastards today. How do you prefer to get your models to stay on the stands?

>> No.34509108

Fucking finally...wont take some greenstuff to fix but at least I can fix the direction now.

>> No.34509134


Defiler modding?

>> No.34509152

No, correcting mistakes from ebay models.

>> No.34509320

For flyer models I prefer to not glue them down. On tabletop if they get shot down it works better to take them off the stands as a visual representation. If They're a bit wobbly Maybe add a tiny bit of bluetack

>> No.34509734

Dreadknight WIP. Ruined the shading on the sword by sticking 'ardcoat on it, then taking it off.

>> No.34509751

>> No.34509767

any comments/advice mucho appreciated.

>> No.34509777


You say you ruined it but it looks fine to me. What do you think is wrong with it?

>> No.34509851

Thanks but it's kinda hard to explain, wish I had taken a pic of the sword before I varnished it. The colours just blended a lot better like you could see the transition between shades better. I ardcoated it bcos the one in my local GW is that way but I really hated how it looked, kinda greasy looking. Maybe didn't use enough? when i took it off with the lahmian medium then I think i took a lot of the surface paint off, shit sucks took me like 3 hours to do the sword =(

>> No.34509901

Reading the last thread, I saw >>34483377 say something about 3-color basecoats helping with tough colors, like red and yellow. Ended up watching the videos he was talking about, too, and realized he was referring to airbrushes when basecoating.

Now, I'm a broke motherfucker for a while (fucking hospital bills), and don't have an airbrush to do that with. I don't particularly foresee too much difficulty replicating the technique with spray primer, barring the whole white step (which could be done by hand).

Has anyone done something similar, and if so, is there anything I'd need to worry about that I haven't thought of?

>> No.34509952

gonna stick a daemon's head hanging from the other hand from the daemon prince set.

>> No.34510037

Started work on these ; did some repairs , primed and basecoated them - airbrush saves a lot of time

>> No.34510074

>Fixing ebay models gotten for cheap

mah niggah

>> No.34510102

that suma china

>> No.34510143

Leave it that way it looks awesome with this resolution.

>> No.34510156

I don't understand

>> No.34510167

WIP of my kitbashed Wolf Priest.

>> No.34510185

I know that the yellow shoulder pad looks like ass. It's being corrected.

>> No.34510218

he ment
>that sum of China models
implying those are all bought from Chinaman

I guess.

>> No.34510245

Spray primer tends to be quite thick , advantage of airbrushing is how thin the coats are so be weary of that .

>> No.34510283

Ah right I figured that's what he meant .

No they're all genuine FW models bar the breaching drill on the far right (which is Russian recast)

>> No.34510394

I'll reserve judgement till it's done. But the idea of someone ruining my favorite Primarch would probably make me claw my eyes out in nerdrage

>> No.34510571

We have the same workstation.

Nice tanks too!

>> No.34510613

Oh lawdy, you need to do something about that gold.

It looks like it was glooped on in a single layer; gold paints you generally want to layer very thin and build it up, or paint a metallic colour then wash with brown.

>> No.34510670



That's because it is a single layer. Non-washed, no highlights, no nothing. This is all wip after all.

>> No.34510686

good to know youre on the job

>> No.34510689

Do you have a Heldrake? I'm want to get one, but I don't like the hind legs. I want to model a 'drake with hind legs drawn up underneath it rather than flailing out behind it. I was thinking of using defiler legs for this. (maybe getting a messed up painted one of ebay and hacking off/stripping the legs).

Do you reckon the defiler is a good fit for this? If you have both, some side-by-side pics for scale would be awesome.

>> No.34510761

Im glad you like it, at least my canon has a use,

>> No.34510765

Of course. I'm eager to see it finished. I've just been scarred enough by the images of amateur painters with too much money who decided to buy a primarch and paint it themselves. They didn't even thin their paints man!

>> No.34510785

What's you're final green layer, they look a poppies than mine and I want that

>> No.34510882


>> No.34511017

everyone else in here: take notes

>> No.34511130


I know what you mean bro, but i've read a lot of /tg/ in the past so i know to ALWAYS THIN MUH PAINTS.

I'm making some progress on the base, getting ready for the second layer of washes. I gotta say, i really love that eagle, or what's left of him.

The only thing i'm kinda uncertain about right now is what color the wires on his chest and in his cowl (or is it a gorget?) should recieve. Most models i've seen have them in gun metal grey, but i've been thinking about some bright electric blue to give the model some more depth. Any thoughts?

>> No.34511270

Whose chest?

>> No.34511434

I had something snarky to say here but I noticed I have no pictures of boobs saved on my computer.

>> No.34511494

I Like that. Keep going! esp. That helemt in the hip

>> No.34511519

I wonder why no one ever puts helmets on models with bare heads.

>> No.34511614

some Dystopian Wars models I finished today

>> No.34511840

another day, another vet. This one has a backpack and a shotgun.

>> No.34511858

Yeha i wonder that too. I wish there where more squire models . the only one i know off are those two for DA

>> No.34511865

Blood Raven vanguard vet, not sure if I'm done or not. (I don't drill my barrels or do the edge highlights, so don't suggest it please)

>> No.34511893


Horus, the guy with the base up there!

>> No.34511894

His helmet is pretty...shadeless.
Scout shotgun right?

>> No.34511924

yea try using a really light wash of either brown or skull colour

>> No.34511977

Anyone here who does WHFB? Can you actually pose the current Dwarf thunderers to look like they're aiming their rifles?

>> No.34511978

I've got some plans for shading the helmet, but I'm going to test them on another model first.

>> No.34512098


yep, got a good deal on a few so i figured why not. Here's the ones I got so far.

>> No.34512117

I wish we had shotguns like in TF2 in 40k like in some art, but those are cool too.

>> No.34512269

>> don't tell me to do two of the easiest ways to make this model suck less

>> No.34512306

Because he's gonna do them already?

>> No.34512448

>basic reading comprehension
nice try though

>> No.34512470

Sorry, I'm tired.

>> No.34512673

>I don't drill my barrels or do the edge highlights
Literally worse than Hitler.

>> No.34513375

>(I don't drill my barrels or do the edge highlights, so don't suggest it please)

You're acting like we'd have to give a shit about what you do or don't. We don't care.

>> No.34513414

>I wish we had shotguns like in TF2 in 40k like in some art, but those are cool too.
Not sure what you are getting at with the TF2 reference but if you mean a shotgun without the box casing, there were loads of them in the Necromunda range, Victoria Miniatures sells them and some others like Kromlech, Maxmini and the like will probably do too.

>> No.34513429

what size bit do you need to drill bolter barrels

>> No.34513471

all you can do then is try to shade, wash or glaze some depths into those colors.
If you don't highlight you need to paint cleanly though. I assume the reason you don't like edge highlights is because you can't paint them cleanly? Basically I torn between saying 'you're fucked' and 'wtf'.

>> No.34513502


>> No.34513561


Might be cemented, otherwise stick it in the freezer overnight

>> No.34513565

uhm, like ... hold a tape measure or something to the barrel and ... uh, ... measure it

>> No.34513673


Oh man, you should always use bone or ash grey instead of white, then highlight white.

>> No.34513696

Thinking of a theme for my skaven,
On one hand I want an Empire town being pillaged but on the other I'd love to make a lizardmen marshland with hollowed bases.
I know I want unit fillers for both, a downed clocktower/rubble, sewer drains with rat swarms bursting out but for the marsh I thought of a dead carnosaur which would look just so fucking cool on one of those big chariot bases.

>> No.34513698


Get some glaze medium and do regular highlights

>> No.34513708

I just got done scrubbing 128 sisters of battle and Inquisition figs. Now I have to re-prime them and paint them. What's an effective way of basing all those figures? I want it to look like they're going through a desert.

>> No.34513783

128 models?
Sand flock, skulls, bones tumbleweed

>> No.34513847


Spray hot glue over your little sisters and throw them in a bucket of fine grain sand

>> No.34514026

Damn I need to get off 4chan

>> No.34514037

Two boyz and a nob all done and dusted ( except drilling and basing)

>> No.34514071


>> No.34514094

Da Lime and da Gorkanut Boyz!

>> No.34514118

Was bothering me that the nobs massive Fucking jaw-face was covering half my details.

>> No.34514165


While you wont be able to see them with the eyes in you head, you'll be able to see them with the eyes in your heart.

>> No.34514226

D-dats bootiful boss.

>> No.34514232

I intended to make a necromunda team.
not being used to the game, how many models should I make? 10?
also, what kits do you guys recvommend in general?

>> No.34514288

That's right, I take candy from children and don't use coaters either. I piss pure malevolence.

>> No.34514423

backpack came out good cast and all.
I think the little bit of softness from it not being plastic actually helps because it is supposed to be leather.

>> No.34514442


I don't even clean the sprue nubs after cutting out parts and I use plastic cement on everything

>> No.34514463

What's your green recipe anon? I love Da bright green boyz, and my fiance is running punk rockas.
>she needs to paint more and I'd like your input as far as green goes.

>> No.34514495

those are pretty awesome

>> No.34514581


Looks like dark angel green with moot green highlights, followed by a green wash followed by rehighlighting with moot green again

>> No.34514730


>stripping some models, several days in simple green + scrubbing removed most paint, but still some primer left in crevices that won't come out

>once I get them stripped and primed, I need to decide on a color scheme, for which I have no idea what I want to do

They're plastic warmchine models, Retribution of Scyrah specifically.

>> No.34514755

your colors

so smooth

tell me your secrets

>> No.34514769

Your fiance has good taste! Here's the colours I use in order from base to highlight left to right (I sometimes mix screaming skull and moot green for extra Fucking bright highlights!)

>> No.34514837

Possible scheme for my almost not chaotic renegade warband, Alpha Legion related. Thoughts ? I think i will include fallen DA as squad leaders, so all-black armors.
Not sure about the gold and the shade of black/dark iron for the legs.
The blue/green will almost certainly be metallic.

>> No.34514858

Superclean if simple green isnt working.
Shit is like turbo paint remover.
As for scheme, I'm fond of pale to medium green with soft gray to white.

>> No.34515030

No big secret anon I Just use small amounts of paint and fast brush strokes that builds up the paint in gradual thin layers!

[Spoiler] and washes. Lots of washes. [/spoiler]

>> No.34515098

>Ruining a lovely and expensive Forgeworld model trying out a new paint scheme

I now know regret.

>> No.34515141


Oh wow, learn photoshop or just hold color swaps next to each other.

>> No.34515428

How ruined is it? I'm sure it cant be that bad. Please post pics?

>> No.34515454

Can you not strip paint off of resin?

>> No.34515551

It's a mess. Tried using a chipping medium that was way stronger than ones I've used previously and just made the model look messy and then a digicam camo scheme that to be honest only really works with larger models. It was a Tau battle suit variant. Just got too ambitious. I've already dumped it into some stripper. Usually I find a load of the detail lost on resin though when I do this. I don't know what I was thinking.
Yeah, that's probably good advice. That and practice on cheaper shitter models.

>> No.34515843

>egyptian legion
>not having a khopesh
What a joke.

>> No.34516039

Has anyone ever stripped paint with an ultrasonic cleaner and simplegreen?

How'd it go?

Thinking about picking one up.

>> No.34516074


It works great though I prefer to use alcohol myself

>> No.34516094

Would you say it's worth the $30?

It'd be nice to not have to scrub, and to just be able to toss models in and remove them ready to prime.

>> No.34516112

Just finished my very first miniature, and while it ain't great I learned a ton with it. It's got some errors that will bug me forever, but it's my first one, so I have no plans to strip the thing, gonna keep this one forever.

>> No.34516133

And the bottom view. Apologies for the less than stellar pictures; I need a better camera / phone.

>> No.34516146


Doesn't work like that, the paint just gets pulled loose after which you can brush it off easily. Might take a couple of rounds of blasting it too.

>> No.34516163

What? Man, fuck that shit, that's not an improvement over my plastic tub.

>> No.34516481

At least now you know that you should never, ever, use an untested scheme on FW models.

>> No.34516802


You can get most paint off with literally one brush stroke

>> No.34517453

Sweet. Thanks man. Got her some killa kans yesterday. Built em, and gotta prime em for her.

>> No.34518642

Any other help?

>> No.34519551

They're so good! Congrats dude

>> No.34519737

thats awesome m8 Killakans are great fun models to paint. Make sure she posts itt, I always say we never see enough Ork action here!

>> No.34519779

How many of you skip priming your models altogether?

I was talking with a friend of mine the other day who's one of the better painters in my store, and I was kind of shocked when he said he doesn't even bother priming his models and just goes straight to a strong basecoat. But it did make some sense; we live in the tropics, where the humidity never drops below 70%. I'm kind of curious if maybe I should do the same, since I've had nothing but bad experiences with my primers ever since I moved here.

>> No.34519842

>edge highlights
>not always looking like shit

Why does everyone suggest edge highlights for every model with pauldrons?

It usually looks like shite.

>> No.34519898

Maybe a good idea if the local humidity is high.

I've found it harder to paint a model smoothly without primer, though it kindof works

>> No.34519950

heh heh heh

>> No.34520255

Chaos Cultists and Catachans are good for Necromunda gangs, also might be worth looking into the Empire Flagellant kit for redemptionists. As for building your gang? 10 dudes for a start up gang is fine.

>> No.34521307

Maybe try brush on primer?

Or invest in an airbrush and do it inside?

>> No.34521378

It looks good on the metal outline of the pauldrons.
Just not the "inner" part of it. I never understood why everyone feels some disturbing need to put a shitty shaky ass line along the inside of that damn part of the pauldron when it just looks like dog crap.

>> No.34521550

that's my point, highlighting can look great if done well. But a lot of people do it when it looks shitty (and in a shitty way) just because "that's what you're supposed to do"

(also, every time one of these threads comes up, the first thing I see is HURR DURR Drill the barrel)

>> No.34521766

Drilling barrels is crazy ass easy, and makes a markedly better final product.

>> No.34521798

>HURR DURR Drill the barrel
Speaking of this, how deep would someone recommend I drill my barrel? Just out of morbid curiosity. Should I just do a little bit, or make it so I can't see the back of the hole?

>> No.34521803

Here's the problem: that's an opinion.

I'm not that anon, but I find drilled barrels to look tacky.

>> No.34521825

Go all the way through the arm, into the chest, and then create a cavity inside the torso and fill it with something.

>> No.34521850

Where else would bolter shells come from?

>> No.34521900

Those are stored in the shoulder pads, silly.

>> No.34523286

fill it with spums

>> No.34523870

Well, you are retarded and trying to make an excuse for your laziness.

>> No.34524011

EC bruh, reporting in. Just finished my noise champion, TT quality is all I'm after for now.

>> No.34524069

Here's the whole gang so far. I'll probably be running them in MSU config with a single blastmaster, either a doom siren or power sword on the champ, in a rhino. Flood the field with power armor and av11. Next project is a pair of daemon princes, saw a game with them the other day and now I want them bad.

>> No.34524368

>On one hand I want an Empire town being pillaged but on the other I'd love to make a lizardmen marshland with hollowed bases.

Sylvania is said to be covered in swamps. So marshland does work with the empire theme too. Since Sylvania is the land of the Undead you could probably just go with undead lizardmen if you are dead set on using a carnosaur (which is insane btw. just to put it on a base).

>> No.34524390

First wip post since i finally got around to getting the paints and two brushes yesterday! I am using the Citadel paint instruction from some fancy PDF file. It did do a conversion of colors to Vallejo Game since the dropper sounded like a god send. I got 11 paints in total and the only thing i ended up missing was red.. oh well. Also made a wet pallet which makes me feel like a pro.

I am happy with my first attempt, but ran into the problem of not knowing how i wanted to color some aspects. So please provide some cool suggestions! General feedback on the paint job is welcome. I thin with distilled water, expect for the gold and leadbelcher since those didn't react to well with the water.

I was thinking the following:
Sword: Add some green+white highlight power arcs
Left shoulder pads: Paint white Omega's
Right shoulder pads: color the bone khaki and blackwash.
Belt buckle: ? khaki and wash?
Heads: White + green eyes
>>white is going to be a bitch right?

Any tips on how i can make a nice base? I only have household stuff and i will be damned if i need to buys some expensive GW crap. I live in the Netherlands so please don't suggest Wallmart.


>> No.34524542

Make the eyes red, if you're going for traditional ultramarine. I prefer metallic belt buckles, but that's just me. For white, Start with grey, drybrush light grey, highlight with white. Either blacken or make metallic the "soft armor" (the ribbed stuff around the joints like the back of the knees.)

>> No.34524662

My Myrmidon officer for Infinity. Needs some highlights, especially the belt, before I can apply varnish and call it finished.

>> No.34524758

looks like you don't thin you paints enough tbh. the white looks chalky.
It works better if you paint a bunch of thin layers and build it up slowly. Or prime white and shade.

>> No.34524946

What kind of base do you want?

Anyway spackle is a good thing to use on bases and 99% of people probably have some in the cupboard somewhere already.

>> No.34524947

I play a lot of TF2 and I remember an artwork of a scout wielding a shotgun exactly like the default one in the game, you know, sawed-off stock and barrell.

>> No.34524992

I dont have all those colors. I guess i can go and buy red since i am missing that, but buying grey.. nah

For the heads i am thinking of the following:
Mix black+white = grey > white > blackwash?
Khaki (bone color) > white thinned 2-3 layers > Blackwash

>> No.34525166

Maybe I'm just slow, but those are still a thing. So you don't need for them to wish to be there. They just have the same stats as all other shotguns.
If it's about converting them, as I said, you can also get some bits from third party manufacturers and they're not even that hard to convert if you have some plastic rod.

>> No.34525652

Yeah, closest one I've seen is colonel Straken's shotgun but still, I wish GW made a plastic kit with some different looking shotties. I know their rules wouldn't be much different.

>> No.34525657

empty your trash

>> No.34525727

Well if it has to be GW the shotguns like the on Straken has were pretty common actually in the Necromunda range. Do a little searching on ebay and you should find what you need.

>> No.34525850

>tfw GW will never support specialist games again

>> No.34525956

I don't really NEED shotguns right now, but it would be cool.
Maybe when GW will finally remake those clown-faced scouts.

>> No.34526046


>> No.34526056

>I want it to look like they're going through a desert.
Had to fill some holes in my walls recently. Had filler left over. Might work for sandy deserts. Or get some structure paste for painting, that should work just as well. Or sprinkle sand over it when it's still wet.

>> No.34526064


And this is a lasgun with the front half chopped off and replaced with a cut down lasgun from a chimera.

>> No.34526070

That's pretty clever.

>> No.34526105

I looked around for a while for alternate minis. Gotta say Terra Gnosis and Eden from Taban look like they could make some pretty cool gangs.
Just get some of the metal ones. Superior in every respect. A lot more fun to paint too.

>> No.34526117

Thank Ron Saikowski of FromTheWarp for that one.

>> No.34526142

splinter turtle

>> No.34526188 [DELETED] 

I see oldcrons at the cron retirment center sitting in rocking chairs

on the left "storms blowin in, i can feel it in my elbow"

on the right "help i've fallen and i cant get up"

>> No.34526234

i see oldcrons sittin in rocking chairs at the cron assisted living house.
on the left "storms blowin in, i can feel it in my elbows"

>> No.34526354

Hey guys, give me ideas for objective markers. Making them on infantry bases.

>> No.34526377

damn breh thats some fancy shit

>> No.34526421

What army do you run?

>> No.34526475

Space Marines/IG/Dwarfs

>> No.34526490

Ammunition stockpiles, intel (radios, briefcases, w/e), VIPs and the wounded. Here's some army-specific ideas...
>Imperium: Servo-skulls, a reliquary, archaeotech
>Chaos: Banners, cursed artifacts, something like 'the marker' from Dead Space
>Orks: da bossz fav shoota, da mek's shiniest skrap, dat runnaway squig
>Tau: Damaged drones or battlesuits, experimental tech
>Necrons: Obelisks a la dawn of war are choice. A fallen lord's weapon that failed to phase out, anything Trayzn might want.
>Eldar: Spirit stones
>Dark Eldar: slaves
>Tyranids: BIOMASS! Also, Battle for Macragge came with some cool looking nest/egg looking things.

I'm sure I've missed someone, but eh.

>> No.34526574

Relics (anything that goes on top of an SM backpack works really well), dead marines, small weapon caches, water cans from the Russ kit, that aquila box or the little sensor dish from the Rhino kit... Basically, take anything you're not using that looks kinda nice, stick it on a base and paint 'er up.

>> No.34526776

Thanks, made 5.

>> No.34526803


>> No.34526828

once I paint these, maybe.

>> No.34527082

Or actually, what the hell, it might take days until I continue working on these anyway.

>> No.34527109


>> No.34527161

Yeah, I expected the same as you, but its way faster then letting it stay in a box with simple green overnight.
So if you want to work fast with your stuff, go for one.

>> No.34527188

That's one filthy table.

But the markers look cool.

>> No.34527240

Oh you have no idea what I cropped out.
Thanks, I'm waiting for the sand to dry so I can go and prime them.

>> No.34527285

Also a test dwarf I painted since I want to start WHFB after a long while.

>> No.34527294

Its interesting how hard some people try to get rid of their models on ebay.
He tries to sell it for 1 month now.

>> No.34527333

Or this.

>> No.34527346

What am I looking at.

>> No.34527357

Custom cybot

>> No.34527483

Forge world sell a shotgun upgrade pack for Cadians, although like everything else they sell its expensive for what it is.


>> No.34527735

>that takes way to much effort

So does baking, what you just snort flour and chew yeast?

>> No.34527760

Some of my ard boyzu

>> No.34528153

the pink looks good

>> No.34528684

>I've already dumped it into some stripper.

Now it's gone

>> No.34528713


>> No.34528735

might work
Don't forget that people sink into sand like this. So glueing them on top will look stupid. Make the sand around their feet.

>> No.34529068

>tfw make a pretty awesome base
>tfw realize I have nothing on terminator bases in my army

>> No.34529262


>> No.34529275


>> No.34529412


>> No.34529423

Stormraven I just finished, really happy about it
Front weapons are magnetised

I happy with the base as well, I used some primed model I had left.

comments welcome

>> No.34529433

and backside

I've replaced the normal boyz legs with the kromlech ones, what do you guys think? The white poster sticky things will be replaced by either a small hill of sand or sandbags to make up for the height difference.

>> No.34529461

I would make a whole sand bag wall on the level of the thing you used to raise the machine guns

otherwise, good job I like it

>> No.34529561

The raven itself looks great, but It would have been better to paint the model on the base. It just looks out of place without proper coloring.

>> No.34529618

If you have a proper drill and a tiny, tiny drill bit; and it doesn't come out looking bad.

Then it is slightly better.

few cm

>> No.34529874

>slightly better
no, without a drilled gun barrel it's look like one of those green plastic toy soldiers
with a drilled gun barrel it becomes a wargaming model
same with proper painting

>> No.34529939

Anyone have tips on what i can do next?

I mis red for the eyes and the white helmets SUCK, but white sucks and i fucking hate white (dont tell pol)

>> No.34529973

I like my barrels drilled too, but seeing as there is already a debate in progress...
Close those slotta bases and sand them. When that has dried you can paint and base them. Will give them the finished look. If you like the old school look you could also add danger stripes on the powerfists in yellow and black.
It's a bit tricky to do though if you are a beginner.

>> No.34530031

decided to try my hand again after a few years

>> No.34530090

oh god damn it why is it flipped
here's a couple other cataphractii anyway

>> No.34530127

also tried doing an unhelmeted face for the first time, thoughts?

>> No.34530146

Currently painting some Uruk-Hai warriors. Is there any imagery beside the White Hand that could be painted on them?

>> No.34530155

His head looks like it is made of gold. Otherwise looks good.

>> No.34530201

Thanks, it depends on the theme what the bases will look like though, either a beach landing theme or just city/village fighting. At a beach landing sandbags would look odd, while they'll look good in a city.

>> No.34530242

Why do people leave the landing gear out on their flyers? Same with stuff like Tau skimmers. Looks weird in my opinion.

Anyway, solid colour, maybe take a lighter shade of blue and just give it a little dry brushing to really pop out those details. On such a unified colour it would really give it some shape and edge (no pun intended).

>> No.34530277

Looking much better. Good job

>> No.34530306

Still painting my x-wing minis. Getting better at colouring within the lines!

>> No.34530390

This is just finished today. Some anons gave some decent advice on this so here it is.

>> No.34530416

Phone camera orientates pictures how it likes.
Here's profile

>> No.34530534

replaced the barrel, think it fits the theme a little bit better now

>> No.34530576

Looks very nice.
Even though you said it's finished, I think a bit of blackwashing in the panels and the bolts would make it look even better. Just some additional weathering, nothing big, but subtle things that give the whole thing a sense of scale if you get my meaning.

>> No.34530731

Reminds me of this
I saw it in my historicals bit box and I want to make an IG heavy weapons team out of it now

>> No.34530795

looks russian. It would fit krieg a little more I think, but maybe it works good for normal IG too.

>> No.34530810

looks like an mg 34 now.

>> No.34530822

Finished this guy, just needs basing now

>> No.34530828

I dont own a drill, sadly.

Do you mean the following power strips? I dont have a bright yellow like that and i am trying to keep my expenses down.

But good idea, they need some more color. I think adding eyes will help and painting the left shoulder pads, but i am afraid of fcking up the omegas.

>> No.34530841

I like it, wouldnt touch it any more. If you want to improve take another head

>> No.34530846


>> No.34530865

fuck, I don't need my americans to look german. I was going for pic related.

>> No.34530928

I thought it looked like a .30cal if that helps. That schweinhund doesn't know what he's talking about.
Exactly. I'm making a little allied detachment of Imperial Guard using Eisenkern Stormtrooper figures, so it wouldn't even look too out-of-scale as a heavy stubber (ruled as heavy bolter in games if I used it)

>> No.34530937

>Do you mean the following power strips?
Yes. The 2nd edition Ultra scheme was glorious.

>I think adding eyes will help and painting the left shoulder pads
It might. The old minis also had campaign markings. Unless they changed the decals since I got my last box of Marines they are still on there. You could try those too for some additional 2nd edition flavor.
Though a basic collection of paints are really not something your money is wasted on. They speed your painting up and make it much more comfortable if you have your favorite shades readily available.
Try Vallejo instead of Citadel though. More paint in the posts, dropper bottles, which means less waste and easier to keep an eye on paint ratios and cheaper too.

>but i am afraid of fcking up the omegas.
They're not omegas silly. They'd have to be upside down to be omegas.
Seriously though freehanding is the one thing that probably helped my painting increase most in the beginning. Painted 50+ shoulder pads with custom iconography for my second army and was a decent painter after that.
So go for it.

>> No.34530948

A robotic apple.

>> No.34530965

Thanks, although maybe I could remove the things at the end of the barrel, just to be sure.
That gun will fit perfectly with eisenkern troops, how big is that gun?

>> No.34530970

>That schweinhund doesn't know what he's talking about.
>doesn't know what he's talking about.
It's Schweinehund.

>> No.34530988

1/35th scale. Right on the spot.
Yeah that, I get most of my german from reading Commando comics.

>> No.34531050

Kind of off-topic but as a German I love the horrible faux German in movies and games. Especially Wolfenstein.

I had to watch Die Hard with subtitles to understand the 'German' parts. They killed the only native speaker in that film first. Go figure.

>> No.34531163

I love listening to foreigners try to speak Finnish in movies and television.

>> No.34531166

Tut mir Leid, mein Deutsch ist nicht adequat genug um mich in akademischen Diskursen mit Ihnen auseinanderzusetzen.

>> No.34531173


>> No.34531192


>> No.34531197

Is this even possible?
Finnish looks like someone put together letters without any form of sense

>> No.34531252

You wanna know what looks like putting together letters without any form of sense?
Polish, Hungarian, Ukrainian, Romanian and Russian.

>> No.34531280


>> No.34531361

or this

>> No.34531371

Imperial guard grenade launchers look very similar to the type of shotgun in tf2, try that?

>> No.34531396


>> No.34531428

I really don't need shotguns for my imperial guard though, seriously
Thanks for the idea, anyway

>> No.34531534

is this some väinamöinen joke or something? Because I'm drawing blanks.

>> No.34531595

they're Finnish idioms and proverbs in English.

>> No.34531806

google model painting pre shading.
especially with airplanes it gives a really nice effect. give it a try on your model.
pic unrelated.

>> No.34531819

painted a human blood bowl blitzer

He looks swaggin'

>> No.34531837

that should read "on your NEXT model"

>> No.34531854

Some of those are actually pretty good.
Most of them make no goddamn sense.

>> No.34531888

Some of them are legitimately insightful.

Some of them are pic related.

>> No.34531956

well, considering that parts of their "creation myth" in finnish folklore is that an eggshell is the sky and the land, it's not too surprising.

>> No.34531967

Well I'm a Finnish persion and I can't figure out what some of them are.

>> No.34531987

Clearly you should go and pitch your own version to Ukko the Overgod.

>> No.34532052

Not all sayings necessarily have deeper meaning. I'm German so here's an example of that in my language
>Scheiße durch ein Sieb geschossen gibt wunderschöne Sommersprossen.
I wonder if google translate can decipher this.

>> No.34532056

no, he's right

>> No.34532077

I'm German and I don't know that phrase.

>Scheiße in der Lampenschale gibt gedämpftest Licht im Saale.

>> No.34532096

Shit shot through a screen is beautiful freckles.

>> No.34532110

>Scheiße in der Badewanne gibt beim baden braune Soße.

>> No.34532124

Shit shot through a sifter makes nice freckles

Shit in the lampshade dulls the light in the room

>> No.34532129

Fuck that should have been Badehose. Sorry about that.

But have another one:
>Scheiße unterm Autoreifen gibt beim bremsen braune streifen.

>> No.34532148


>> No.34532222

It's a rapper apparently. Never heard of him before.
But we used to say that stuff as kids.
Like the rhymes about the forenames.

>Alle Kinder sitzen im Kreis um das Feuer, außer Brigitte, die sitzt in der Mitte.
>Alle Kinder gehen aus dem Kino, außer Abdul, der hängt im Klappstuhl.
>Alle Kinder gehen über die Straße, außer Rolf, der klebt am Golf.
and so on and so forth.

>> No.34532292

>> No.34532319

Ich meinte damit, dass DU ein reines Reimemonster bist. Ironisch natürlich, weil Badewanne sich so selten gut auf Soße reimt.

>> No.34532353

Oh okay. Danke für die Blumen.

>> No.34532544

>post american orks
>thread derails into german language

>> No.34532575

Bumping now that it's tomorrow

>> No.34532757

It is pre shaded. The camera doesn't really pick it up to well. The gradient on the camo is quite subtle.

>> No.34532900

Actually all of them make sense if you know where they derive from.

>> No.34532922

Not bad. Nice work.

>> No.34533118

Terrible translations, for one.

>> No.34533206

I believe that's the joke.

>> No.34533264

See your point though. Maybe too subtle. Re-shaded with watery black just now.
>my next one
You know I'm doing many more of these? I like my elysians.

>> No.34533723

the problem with shading AFTER the camo is just that, the camo is covered up.

but it looks better. even though try to keep it a little bit more subtle.

pic unrelated

>> No.34533806

Has anyone bought from them?
I got the link from this video

>> No.34533818

Nah the black was mostly thinner. Again the camera doesn't do it any favours.

>> No.34534138

If I'm going the carnosaur route I want the whole thing to be colorful with some different flora but rats vs skelemen would be really interesting, especially Empire skelemen and crypts. like a half sunken crypt

>> No.34534328

why is he informing workshop of china

>> No.34534368

maybe he's hoping GW will finally understand that their business model isn't good

>> No.34534569

>being this retarded

everybody knows about Chinaman
GW and FW know about Chinaman

But showing your name and your face and saying you bought from them AND RECOMMEND IT ... that's special retarded.

>> No.34534588

the models i posted in
are all yoymart. it's almost impossible to tell when they're painted, but the resin is a little more brittle.
thanks, I think it's mainly the lighting that made it look golden. pic related in a different light

>> No.34534720

Oh, I see.
They don't look half bad. I mean the models, you might want to either A) thin your paints a bit more or B) use a wash or C) both.
How long was the delivery time?

>> No.34534724

yoymart and taobao are marketplaces
You can order via them and pay extra for their service.
Or you can order directly from the Chinaman.
They make good quality copies. I'd say if you order 10 x 1 model from FW and 10 x 1 from Chinaman, Chinaman will have 9 flawless models and 1 "ok" while with FW you'll get maybe 7 flawless, 2 "ok" and 1 FUBAR.

Can't say anything about GW copies, though.

The real Chinaman shops are:
lowpricewarhammer.com (Zanchui)
thebitskingdom.com (CoolCastOrNot/CCON)

>> No.34534839

But anon, pic related.

>> No.34534964

made my first necromunda orlock
too stupid?

>> No.34534975

I see. yeah, I've been recently trying to remove myself from thin-your-paints-tier painting skills but it's hard to stay motivated. Delivery times were 1-3 weeks for my stuff but i've heard of it taking longer than that for some.

>> No.34535447



>> No.34535698

O-Oh my

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