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[ERROR] No.32558359 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

>buy highlight color paint
>fail at highlighting
>give up
>buy weathering powders
>fail at weathering
>give up
>buy Tamiya Clear Red and Blood for the Blood God
>fail at blood splatter
>give up

Failing and Giving Up Edition

>> No.32559097

This is how an 8 year old paints a skaven. If you cannot manage this, i have bad news for you

>> No.32559174

>implying that isn't better than a fair amount of new /tg/ painters' work

Have a picture of a 10 year old's work.

She can even into wet palettes!

>> No.32559191

When I started, boy did I suck.
I mean I still suck but I'm not THAT bad.

>> No.32559197

>Giving up

You are doing art wrong.

Just try again.

>> No.32559199

i dont trust the munchkin with inking quite yet. She wants to be very democratic with the paint

>> No.32559497

I got some work done on my Mister of the Forge.
Don't like the lava but I can fix it.

>> No.32559555


>> No.32559589

For first time highlighting I don't think it came out terribly, a bit sloppy in some parts but okay.

>> No.32560790

Thumbnail looks like it's levitating in mid air

>> No.32560808

So I'm assembling 5 imperial knights for a friend. Is that even a legal stand-alone army anymore?

>> No.32560852


>> No.32560984

the new faq made it seem like it is not.

>> No.32561124

what does it say?

>> No.32561175

What makes you think that?

>> No.32561216

All I see are mold lines and gloopy paint.

I keep losing respect for this model every time I see it.

In other news, my Kraken is finally coming along. The LED kit is locked in, I just need to run varnish on it until it's safe to work on again.
I now know why hairspray is a touchy method D:
I'll be posting a few pics of my Raicho WIP shortly.

>> No.32561227

Hey WiP - I'm thinking about extending a leman russ chasis. Length wise. I have spare bodies (no turets) and yeah... tempting.

Renegade force.

>> No.32561240


Deltic Hoverers.

>> No.32561290

Aaaaaaaaaand Raicho with first major base coats done. Thoughts?

>> No.32561501

It is... it is green.
Seriously though nice and smooth, good start, don't fuck it up

>> No.32561521

couple left to do.

>> No.32561599

Still need to pick up a slightly darker green and work down a bit. I'm thinking just tweaking a dark blue or a black into the current lowest green and seeing how well that drop the colour. It's not going hyper dark all in all, but I need something to help create the dark ends to be darker. I was thinking a black wash carefully worked, but it's a little tricky. I might pick up some satin varnish and use that. Washes love satin varnish.

I also need to get a decent highlighting colour on the asshole. The two fisty guns are going to be a whole thing on their own. For anyone complaining about missing bits; the guy I'm doing this for didn't want them on the model. I obliged.

>> No.32561623

Still trying to make SST cadians. Eshin grey and dark reaper didn't work.

>> No.32561691

It looks to me like the grey has more blue in it. Vallejo Heavy Blue Grey look like they might work for the blue-er grey, maybe add some turquoise to the mix of whatever grey you're using and try to find a good ratio. The other grey looks pretty neutral. You could do a Wolf Grey and wash over with a thinned black wash.

>> No.32561710

What do you all use for taking your pictures? Do you use anything for editing them afterwards?

>gloopy paint
I thinned it, I promise! I-it's the finecast's fault.
Actually it kinda is, the model sans paint was sorta...folded around the torso, the fire caste sign and knee joints (the sides you can't see). The highlights are sloppy in some parts too.

>> No.32561902

I wait for the brightest time of day in my room, I use my shitty camera or my cell phone, sometimes I use my decent camera if I'm willing to set it up, and I take a picture. Breathe in and breathe out, hold breathe on the out and snap the picture. No editing unless I'm posting under restrictions, and then it's just resizing or cropping the image a bit.

With time we all become better painters, but it's a matter of taking it slow and accepting that you're always terrible. Fine cast isn't fun to work with, but it's feasible. Highlighting is also weird to learn at first. I remember my first highlights were... bold, to say the least.

>> No.32561949

What do you use for resizing and cropping, photoshop or something else?

>> No.32561984

Nah bro, I've tried long enough, I've taken the path of doing the bare minimum so I can to make it look meh at arm's distance. Anything further is a waste of time and effort.

>> No.32562063

Just finnished my Necron Lords tonight

>> No.32562067

>What is MS Paint

>> No.32562078

Literally MSPaint. I once used GIMP when I thought it was alright, and then I used some version of photoshop, but I lost that. Again, I normally don't edit my photos.

>> No.32562092

better pic, what do you think of the garnet and gold paint scheme though?

>> No.32562117

>> No.32562121

Really really glaring to the eye. The orange needs some shade badly. and Gold coule use some highlight.

>> No.32562143

I tried using my sisters fish-eye camera lens but it looks terrible.

Anyone have any experience with heaps of gold? I want to add some Sanguinary Guard to my BA

>> No.32562147

i phone pictures are shamefull

>> No.32562176

I think you have too many clashing colours. A lighter brown (bronze?) on most of the body, and having that dark red replaced with the same orange as the shoulders would probably make it look more uniform instead of all jumbled colours.
I think it's okay as a base, but it still needs a lot of work, namely the bright orange NEEDS to be toned down with a wash or something, to give it contrast and depth, and the brown/bronze/gold needs to be brought up with some highlights.

>> No.32562189

the warriors are just going to be scorpion bronze and khorne red, i wanted the HQs to have bright ass colors because they are commanding the lower ranks. kind of like a power aura thing, also so they stick out and i dont forget about them or the look out sir placements to have them in.

i also wanted all of my HQs and royal courts to have a bit more personality and flare

>> No.32562233

If you want to have aura and actual glow you need a tone shift. Right now it just looks flat, not glowing. The center of the mass needs to be lighter to give illusion of illumination. Also the metal could use some bright highlights near the orange parts.

>> No.32562243

Looking good. Im not familiar with 40K. What is the model in the back. He looks like something I could steal for my Vampire Counts army.

>> No.32562268

Vallejo Model Air Gold -> Vallejo Model Air Bright Brass

>> No.32562276

Agreed the red is a bit to garish
Though it could work for the eyes to "shine"

>> No.32562277

Paint job is solid but the paint scheme is super sweet. Its like a fiery, glowing Iron Man lookin Necron. Grats on something besides silver and gold.

>> No.32562348

It's a good colour scheme, and like >>32562277 I commend you for thinking outside Boltgun Metal and some form of neon green. I think with maybe even just a wash with maybe Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade or what-have-you, the orange will have some great depth. Especially with the eyes, they'll certainly stand out but at the moment it just looks a bit... over the top?

>> No.32562350

This. So much this. Subtle washes down and it looks gorgeous. My only current issue with VMA metallics are that they curdle or congeal over longer periods of time. My suggestion is to find a lot of products to use it all at once, and then never worry about the paint shitting out.

>> No.32562359

Literally the only painting ive done in my 4 years of the hobby.

>> No.32562398

That's actually not bad. The silver looks a bit too bright and a bit too thin, but the purple looks great. For someone who hasn't (supposedly) painted before, you've managed to make something that looks better than some people who've been "painting" for several years, which isn't saying much, but still - good job.

>> No.32562418

I can't remember myself, he's a cardinal I think.... He's actually the only 40k model in the pic

>> No.32562434

Its 2am and im not gonna paint these tonight, but here is my attempt at a banner for the legion of the damned

>> No.32562452

and a sarg

>> No.32562465

Thanks! I'm afraid of painting my models for fear of ruining them. That and I'm pretty lazy. Sorry the photo is bad, used my iphone.

>> No.32562564

Shitty quality pictures, but here's some progress pictures. My girlfriend and I are making a 3D heroclixmap, and I've started popping minis off thier dials and repainting them.

>> No.32562584

Really dig Thor's cape

>> No.32562594


>> No.32562618



>> No.32562631

Necron player here, so im still new to advanced painting, but what would be the best way to go about toning down the bright orange. ?

>> No.32562633

>Dat powergirl.

Didn't realize HC actually had decent sculpts to make use of the good paintjob

>> No.32562643

And some Star Trek.

>> No.32562648

A layer of dark red or light red depending on what you're going for.

>> No.32562668

Heroclix sculpts are the worst. Most faces are just flat surfaces with nubs for noses.

>> No.32562859

Hey OP, it just takes time and practice. I've found it's a hobby that you first have to put time in until you can start making some decent works. One of my miniatures I'm painting and I'm not finished yet.

>> No.32562948

... Do you mean "liberal" with the paint, or is there a voting process?
Cause, to be honest, after that whole "Twitch plays Pokemon" thing, I have to wonder what other geeky activities can be done by a crowd.
[spoil]I'd vote blue for everything, all the time[/spoiler]

>> No.32562985

Toned it down quite a bit, let me know what yall think, also dry brushed bronze on top of my wash

>> No.32563006

here is the other guy, i have poor lighting but next pic wil be illumianted more

>> No.32563029

also they look much better when standing 3 feet away ^^ lmao

>> No.32563038

How do I paint faster?

I can complete 2 to 3 Orcs in an hour at this quality is that a good speed?

>> No.32563057

Disclaimer: I have no artistic talent whatsoever.

But I've been thinking lately I might give painting minis a try. I've got some cheaper (like, a couple dozen for $10 cheap) plastic mini's for D&D but I thought it might be nice to have a few 'nicer' ones (I use the term loosely because I suspect anything I do will look horrible).

Is there, like, any /tg/ approved tutorials or beginner's instructional videos or something you guys would recommend? Or is pretty much anything I find online going to be ok?

>> No.32563087

Pretty much any tutorial will give you enough tools to get it going.

>> No.32563233

Looking good man, just do an edge highlight with the original orange on all the red parts and it'll pop like crazy. Keep up the good work.

>> No.32563241

what are you really going for? if you want to get faster your painting will suffer in quality. what you should do is learn to paint well, and the speed will come with it. It's all what you want it to look like, if you want decent tabletop, you'll have to put time in until you learn little quick tips on things. Trust me, it'll come to you if you just put the hours in. A brown wash can cut down some layering by an hour easy which I learned by trial and error.

>> No.32563286

This picture makes me want to get a bunch of the new stormtroopers

>> No.32563350

Wanted a Vindicare Assassin for my Grey Knights but the GW model is old and fugly so I decided to use an infinity Hexas Sniper model and made the barrel of the gun ridiculous to match 40k aesthetic

>> No.32563354

Thanks, I'll just look around and find one that appeals to me then

>> No.32563373

back view

>> No.32563391

and one more angle for good measure

>> No.32563428

I like that color on the outfit, was that done with layering, or just dabbing? The base and gun give it a nice feel too.

>> No.32563458

Hello Arti

>> No.32563469

From the waist up the paintwork looks a bit.. fucked up? I'm not quite sure what's off about it but it looks kind of rough.

>> No.32563487

What I love about Inquisitorial Henchmen warbands is how all the models are so ugly it forces me to look out for cool replacements

>> No.32563491

It looking kinda bad from the waist up is due to my phone's potatopixel camera
The shading on the back of the cloak i did with my airbrush and then final highlights handbrushed

>> No.32563572

Hello,I'm afraid you have me at a disadvantage :P

>> No.32565047


How's my quality now?

>> No.32565235


Did you beat it with a spiked bat before priming? Why is the upper half so banged up?

>> No.32565244


We already told you it's grey with a mix of green and blue in it

>> No.32566749

Man, I love how easy oil washes makes doing black lining on space marines and tanks, but I fucking hate how much turps stinks up the room.

>> No.32566782

OK guys im trying to make a unit made up out of conscripted peasants for my Napoleonic French army. Ive tried to greenstuff some peasant clothing over the normal uniforms, I'm not too sure about the outcome, do these test minis look okay?

>> No.32566888

due to the horrible close up they look really messy, please bear in mind that they are WiP as fuck

>> No.32566941

whats blood for the blood god? As a product to buy.

>> No.32567047

A new GW blood effect paint.

It's actually pretty cool, although not as good as tamayia clear red, but it's cheaper and more available to people who don't live in Japanland.

>> No.32567250

I like the idea behind the conversion but the paintwork and cleaning up beforehand is really sloppy. All the imperfections of the parts shine out and the paintwork feels very uneven.

>> No.32567266

...I thought it was a /tg/ nickname for something, I'd googled it if I tought otherwise. I undersestimated GW's marketing department. Sorry and thank you for your answer.

>> No.32567307


Still need to do another 2 layers of gold trim, beard and weapon, but I'm really happy with my progress.

>> No.32567335

Thin your paints. Its not le funny may-may, its actual advice.

>> No.32567387

Thin your paints is definitely the advice to give here. Looking really nice though. I like the white-blue scheme but if a unit doesn't have room for it in the shield, you should include it in the clothing or somewhere else just to give them that uniform feel. Some places here and there could use a bit of a touch up since paints have gone over to where they don't belong. Keep up the good work!

>> No.32567392

It's the camera, I promise. Well, maybe not the white. I'm fucking garbage at painting white and am still trying to figure it out. Everything else is thin as fuck.

>> No.32567438

You don't paint white.

You prime in light grey and then highlight with white.

>> No.32567467

Welp, there's the problem then.

I based grey and painted up to White Scar, but it looks so fucking... clumpy. It was irrelevant how much I watered down the white.

Thanks for the tip!

>> No.32567473

This. Never try to paint white directly on top of dark or colorful surfaces, you'll need to cake on a lot of paint to make it cover the color underneath. Start with gray instead, and build up.

>> No.32567490

This. The other day I painted a white scars/ultramarine officer helmet for my chaos trophies. Never again. I still see it light grey and not righteous white, but is as white as I can go without fucking up the highlights.

>> No.32567491


>> No.32567502

So this works for fresh blood, recently spilled. What for dry blood, from battles many time ago?

>> No.32567570

been working on this daemon prince for a few days , sorry for the shitty picture quality.

>> No.32567742

Copypastad my comment from the other thread:

>hot pink on top of brass

I wish there was a nicer way to put this, but this is seriously one of the most hideous colour schemes I've ever seen. No amount of skill and effort can make this work, reconsider it for your own sake.

Also why are even his teeth pink, and did you intend to blend the pink and the brass together on his forehead or was that just an accident?

>> No.32567764

Regular brown paints, maybe with some slight reddish hue. A brown or chestnut-coloured wash would work well for parts that are just somewhat stained. Blood doesn't really look red at all once it gets old.

>> No.32567856

Thank you. And for the "splat" effect?

>> No.32567876

its supposed to be a darker red, but I have a very bright flash, though I do see where you are coming from, probably should have darkened up the red before application. Here's what it looks like when not magnified and sprayed with bright light, though I can't really say its much better.

>> No.32567956

Hm... you could try the method I use for mud and rust: tear off a bit of plastic sponge (like the kind you used to get in blisters), dip it in a bit of paint of dark brown. Eventually wipe off a bit first if you don't want it too thick. Then, dab the model with it. For an uneven, mottled colour, do the same thing with a lighter hue before the paint has completely dried. Haven't tried it with blood, but it works great for rust.

It still doesn't really work, but it's less terrible. Although you really should learn to remove mouldlines, especially on such large, smooth Surfaces where it would've only taken a couple of minutes.

>> No.32568003

thanks for the advice, I'll make sure not to miss them in the future.

>> No.32568032

I should note that with this sponge technique, I usually end up with a very rough, uneven surface. Which is exactly what I want for dried mud and rust, but might not be fully appropriate for dry blood. Do a few tests before using it on a model.

>> No.32568060

And I want to apologize for being kind of an asshole, I was in a bad mood. Sorry.
I do like the brass skin look for a demon, it feels pretty Khorne. What are you gonna highlight it with, and are you gonna use any washes?

>> No.32568121

I never got decal to work. So I freehanded everything. Or scultped occasionally.
Now I'm a pretty decent painter and sculptor and make my own bits.
>Everything went better then expected

>> No.32568142

I washed with nuln oil, and i have no idea what I'm going to highlight with as I have no experience with highlighting, any suggestions? also I was going to try to paint the raised sections on the legs either a "hot iron" red or a steam white as I am naming it the "Brass Bull of Khorne".

>> No.32568151

Check out vallejo model colors.
They have exactly the color you need.

>> No.32568155

That's impressive! And the one to the far left kinda looks like Doctor Doom from this angle.

>> No.32568179

I'd suggest painting them red, it goes well with the horns and matches the brass better than white. Feels more Khorne, too.

>> No.32568199

Yeah it kinda looks like that. Was supposed to be a Golem though.

>> No.32568211


>> No.32568215

It looks less like Doom from this angle. Nice smooth shading on the metal, too. What's your method?

>> No.32568232

Cool! thanks, I'll probably go do that now, thanks again for the advise!

>> No.32568255

Good luck!

>> No.32568260

My painting woes always seem to stem from a lack of decision.

Right now I cant pick a colour scheme for my bolt action germans. I want them to look late war 1944ish, like in band of brothers, but when I do models like they they dont seem to 'pop'. They look unfinished.

Having similar problems with cygnar morrow warjacks too :/

Any kindanons for tips?

>> No.32568316

How much highlighting and shading do you do? When there's little difference between the darkest and the lightest hue of a surface, you'll get a flat look.

For wargaming models, it's often a good idea to make highlights more exaggerated and bright than they'd be in real life.

>> No.32568354


Not sure if it was boltgun or chainmail (leaning towards bolltgun), but basically just a thinned wash of black (badab black), with a little bit attention to where it pools and some thinned basecolor to highlight.
You can see on the back of the tactical pad where I just put unthinned basecolor on, because iirc, I managed to get red on there.

>> No.32568405

I dont know how to higlight metallics, either. At least I dont like how they end. My IW have a dark iron theme, and I prime them metallic and just shade the fuck out of them. Details and voila, battle-ready.

Sometimes I think I picked them because they were easy to paint. Then I remember the fucking stripes.

>> No.32568424

Nice job. Spock should have a slight green cast on his skin though. It will make him pop a little.

>> No.32568442

>I can complete 2 to 3 Orcs in an hour at this quality is that a good speed?
...holy crap I'm slow...

>> No.32568454

I think that guy is pretty fast.

>> No.32568463

A decent amount of highlighting - Test models have been shadow grey, washed, shadow grey panels and codex grey highlights. The problem is they dont seem to have too many small details - Like necklaces, beads, badges, purity seals etc. Without those the model model kinda blends into one mass of grey.

Different problem on the morrow cygnar. Infantry were fine - Cream and blue, silver/metal/gold. Easy as shit. Warjacks-wise, I begrudge to do them blue (I have a completely seperate cygnar army), white doesnt work, grey and metal look shit. Idk.

>> No.32568588

Just finished my first Stormboy.
I cannot the black highlights.

>> No.32568730

This looks sweet, especially the goggles.

>> No.32568768

So, I want to put a marine beaten in a terminator base. What should I do with the corpse when the base ends? Fucker doesnt fit with the mini, but I do not want it to look like a severed torso.

>> No.32568863

Which Heroclix are clear plastic under their hideous paint? I need me some camo markers

>> No.32569001

I dunno, I didn't bother getting rid of their original paint. Eradicator is probably clear, Silver Surfer, any with one of those clear flight thingies. I'm only guessing, but before I painted over them I could see through parts of their legs and feet.

>> No.32569194

They look peasanty. Mission accomplished.

>> No.32569216

bout to paint some reaper bones minis; Any tips? Recommended paints for them? OR can I just use GW.

>> No.32569287

GW shit is fine.

>> No.32569434

While GW is fine, I'd recommend Vallejo Game Color. Range as wide as GW, more paint for less and better bottles imo. They come with a built-in dropper, which is handy for picking even amounts of paint for mixing.

>> No.32570052

I have paint thinner.

How do I a) Thin paint and b) make shade

>> No.32570119

I think my local game store might sell them
Anyone got other tips for reaper bones stuff?
I understand I don't have to and shouldn't use a primer on them, right?

>> No.32570152

>paint thinner
I hope you are not using enamel paint on miniatures.

a) Make a wet palette. Put paint on the palette. Add a touch more water from brush to the paint on palette if necessary. Thinned paint with have a milky consistency. Paint will likely take a couple coats to cover but will look better in the end.

b) Either buy it premade or do a) and add even more water to it.

pic related

>> No.32570163


I've painted bones and would recommend primer. Not using primer is a ludicrous idea, especially given how bendy they are.

>> No.32570261

people have told me not to use it. Just standard primer stuff? should I use a different color than black or gray?

>> No.32570288

I'm not using enamel paints, it's just vallejo.

>> No.32570294

Slowly, it takes form. Funny how flat it looked when it was all in one basecoat colour, and how much the turrets pop now with more paint added. I just hate that the bottom side is mirror match of this, so more painting of the same.

>> No.32570323

Ok well then idk why you mentioned paint thinner. I t would be a poor choice to put that stuff in your nice acrylic Vallejo paints.

Seriously though. Spend 4$ and make a wet palette. Nothing made me a better painter than switching to one of those.

>> No.32570596

Just followed a tutorial, made one up. WIll post results here, thanks anon. I'm new at this.

>> No.32570815

primer color is entirely dependent on what you are trying to achieve.

>> No.32571023

Which regiment are those skull faces again? Looks fucking metal.

>> No.32571243

Well I have some old west minis so browns and such. And a giant wyrm I'm not sure what to paint. and some skeletons so white and browns. Very new to painting minis. Gonna try these as a test and then try my 40k minis after i have the exp

>> No.32571267

Steel legion of Armageddon/Old School Death Korps of Krieg

>> No.32571434

finally getting me waveserpent done, struggling to get the highlighting on the orange/red to be satisfactory though

>> No.32571533

Another anon here. There are thinners made for acrylic paints as well. I'm using one when applying primer or paints with an airbrush, or for thinning washes. Brushwork is handled by wet palette and water.

>> No.32571576

Still working on my Necron army.

>> No.32571615


That's fast?

>> No.32571617


Today saw my Tesla Immortals getting about 50% done.

>> No.32571659

hey guys, I'm back.
Don't have much time to paint recently because women.

repostan my Master Of The Forge from last week, but I know my pictures a shit.

Oh god yes I love these crons!
The base of that walker is not a it's supposed to have from GW, is it? I'm thinking about putting my vehicles on bases as the Imperial Knight also has a huge ass

>> No.32571669

Given the quality, yes.

Models with different colors tend to take a long time because people need to stay within the lines without leaving the edges unpainted.
Ultramarines for example are easy as sin to paint and take very few time while Orks with clan colors and various looted bits will take longer.
Touchups are usually the biggest time eaters.

>> No.32571671

... base.
huge ass base.

Fuck, thats awkward.

>> No.32571676

Your quality in my opinion looks fine. myself would do some type of design and the shield and give some flare to the weapons, but that's me. I do roughly the same type of quality with that speed but then spend extra time giving it a boost to certain spots. My downfall as a miniature painter, I'm never happy with my works.

>> No.32571696

design on the shield*

>> No.32571703

Hue Jazz?
I'm looking for a Hue Jazz here!
Has anyone seen a Hue Jazz?

>> No.32571718

That name is generally spelled Hugh.

>> No.32571793


I was going to go back and do some blood splatter when I was finished.

>> No.32571846

>Failing and Giving Up Edition

>try to base orks using Agrellan Earth
>first coat does nothing, no cracks
>second coat makes a few thin cracks, nothing like the effects I've seen other people get
>try a third coat, thinning it down, no cracks
>try a fourth, making it thicker, next-to-no change
>what am I supposed to do, drybrush the stuff on?

>> No.32571955


It's just a sanding disc, not sure if it's 7" or 9" in diameter.

Also: dat ass

>> No.32571974

should I put some green instead of the red?

>> No.32572188

Different guy here but inquisitive anyway.

I've made a wet palette before and it was good sure, but it was a lot of effort and I didnt notice a huge amount of difference. What about it makes it so good (Good enough to improve your painting) - Are you talking about single model quality, or improved quality over a batch?

(Mid level painter, using W&N series 7s for most stuff if that makes any difference)

>> No.32572974

Here are some deathwing I'm working on. They're actually finished for now...more to do but I never finish anythi

>> No.32573000

>no barrels

>> No.32573046

barrels, i know...it was the first thing I saw when I took the photos... ugh.

>> No.32573138

You should fix those 2 backwards fin things first, it's hard to focus on anything else when those are fucked up.
otherwise the red looks fine, gives nice contrast to the blue

>> No.32573168

>fish-eye camera

>> No.32573255

> thinning your paint
> thinning your paint
> thinning your paint

If you fucking window lickers have such poor paint control that you have to thin the shit, you best get gud. Non thinned paint works correctly if you dont glob that shit on there like a chimp

>> No.32573301

Trying out my cheap lightbox and trying different lighting. Every time I try indirect lighting kit kills the colors. This one has my light shined right on it.

>> No.32573505

that looks like a decent picture Anon, I wouldn't worry about indirect lighting.

>> No.32573506

Despite the eclectic colors chosen, I rather like this. May I suggest changing the vents to wraith-bone?

>> No.32573515

im guessing OP works at blackpool GW

>> No.32573554

those faces...
>I'm going to murder your family
>I'm going to insult your mother in a slanderous fashion

>> No.32573561

That orange glow pairs very well your black/white/metal scheme. The monolith looks like real stonework. The bases are really nice and uniform. 10/10, would charge w/ my Orks.

>> No.32573745

A couple more things to do on this, but mostly done.

>> No.32573758

/tg/entlemen, currently painting a Pain Boy, what should I put on the front of his mask?

>taking suggestions

>> No.32573798

My only complaint is that the bone colors of their armor are rather dark. Aren't they supposed to be lighter? It really makes the light grey areas blend in, especially in the case of the winged swords on their chest or the Crux Terminatus.

>> No.32573939

Yes, its usually lighter. This is a heavily shaded bleached bone color. I recon it looks like they've been fighting. I agree the chest wings are hard to make out. I'll try a black wash on the wings, and see if the detail pops out better.

>> No.32574006

Another mask

>> No.32574012

This is the first of my renegade militia. He is unfinished, and I'm wondering how i can improve him more.

For the skin the only paint i have is bugmans glow, how do you think i could make him a bit lighter, he just looks very tanned. I'm also unsure if the shotgun colour scheme works. Others will have autoguns and lasguns.

>> No.32574056

i like it. Ignore this conservative :)
I reckon demons should disregard logic and taste.

>> No.32574059

Bad ass, wish I could weather as well as you.. But I am a turnip

>> No.32574147

nice. What gun is that?

>> No.32574204

It's just a shotgun from Anvil Industries, and i also have the assault rifles from this page with the curved mags. They work well for 40k i think.


And the arms are these bare rifle arms.


>> No.32574220

I like so much your choice of colours, Im going to skip the "official" dark mechanicum scheme. Once your loyalties change, I supose changing colours is not a big deal.

>> No.32574363

Those bionic arms and heads would make great tech priests or skitarii

>> No.32574520

Lexicanum says that sometimes techpriests wear white robes rather than red.

Obviously, I don't think those guys work much with machines directly...

>> No.32574734

Seconding this question.

>> No.32574760

>Someone out there on gods green earth really, truly believes this.

Please post some of your models.

>> No.32574787

>That monolith

>> No.32574813

Last night after finishing my first squad of necrons, lychguard at that. I decided... To make something. This is the result, I really enjoyed it and it was nice to finally use all these extra bits. Maybe use it as an overlord proxie?

>> No.32574814

Yeahh I thought that monolith was pretty fucking awesome too. The gem is airbrushed obviously but I'm thinking the whole thing might be airbrushed. Are those the puppets war tomb spyders?

Looks good anyway anon, would love to see more.

>> No.32574839

Warscythe and gauntlet of fire?

>> No.32574840

Been a while since I last posted, getting a job has sucked away all my free time, I did however get around to doing some more work on my contemptor.

I'm pretty pleased with how the scroll work came out, I've also done the metal parts, they just need to be highlighted. It's pretty subtle, but I've also done some edge highlighting.

>> No.32574874

whoops, wrong pick.

>> No.32574889

Size reference

>> No.32574956


>> No.32575009

Im so sorry it usually auto flips

>> No.32575147

watch the how to video you spaz, it's really not that hard.

>> No.32575196

If you have a Vallejo stockist they would be a help. The Armour looks like a greeny grey, like Feldgrau, the uniform itself more warm.

>> No.32575250

>be in a WIP/Painting thread
>Anon #1 makes a brilliant pun
>Anon #2 misses the clue boat

Hue as in color theory ....

>> No.32575313

>Are those the puppets war tomb spyders?
Those are the GW spyders. They're awesome.

>> No.32575338

I thought those were screenshots from the GW video, and they'd hired someone who looked like JGL.

>> No.32576788


The crystal, gate and some of the bone areas are airbrushed. The bone areas need another highlight though to match the rest of the army, as does the crystal.

Bone areas need to get some paint chipping and weathering powders before it's done too.

The metal is just Leadbelcher, a few black washes and then a drybrush of Necron Compound towards the top of the plates.

>> No.32576824

Yeah, great work on those scrolls.

>> No.32576890

What would be a good kit to use to convert a MK1 Rhino into a Whirlwind?

>> No.32576938


How in the actual fuck do you fail at weathering powders?

Apply, let dry, and seal...

What else is there to miss?

>> No.32576979


How do you seal them?

Spray too close and the powders become paint.
Spray further away and the spray dries before hitting the model.

>> No.32577093


>spray sealing pigments

HahahHa, just use a brush ya dingus

>> No.32577160


Won't that disturb the pigments, or do I just soak the area?

Also, do I thin the varnish any?

>> No.32577204

I thought common advice was to fix with hairspray?

>> No.32577224


Gently dab it on unthinned

There are some good youtube vids on this stuff

>> No.32577238

How do you guys glue big resin kits? I have a FW tank and the pieces don't fit cleanly together even after 1 hour with a hair dryer to make everything fit.

Is there any kind of glue/material I can use to fill in the gaps that will be resilient enough?

>> No.32577243


Pigment fixatives doofus. Plus, powder work should be done after you varnish the model anyways.

Secret Weapon makes a decent one.

>> No.32577279


for outright gaps that you cannot seem to fix you should be using green stuff.

>> No.32577312


Yeah, will just order the MIG one and save me any trouble.

The tutorials online all contradict each other, fixatives, alcohol, spray varnish, brush-on varnish.

>> No.32577346

that face

>> No.32577347

I was thinking of that, but I thought maybe there was some way of permanently fusing the pieces, like some resin that could be applied like glue to fuse pieces

>> No.32577415

I don't thin either and I've posted my models before when prompted and everyone went dead fucking silent.

The funniest thing is how people get offended if someone says you don't have to thin.

Stop parroting stuff you read online without thinking. If you control your paint you really don't need much thinning at all.

>Thinning Varnish.
You see what you people have done? Holy fuck noodles.

>> No.32577503


That's nice if you live in a very cold part of the world and you hate using techniques other than drybrushing but other that that, most people need to thin their paints at least a little bit.

>> No.32577521

>Stop parroting stuff you read online without thinking. If you control your paint you really don't need much thinning at all.

>> No.32577571

Are you asking how to assemble or fix big resin models?
No fusing as far as I'm aware. Buypainted youtube channel had a good video about assembling big resin models but I can't seem to find it at this moment...

>> No.32577602

Stowage on chimeras. I wouldn't have them any other way

>> No.32577625

>on the exterior

>> No.32577654

Cause I'm geting some plasticard later on to add some cages. Shit aint easy for me to aquire at the moment.

>> No.32577656

Yeah, who the fuck would do that, like, ever?

>> No.32577692

I fucked up the turret assembly. I'm going to file it down and paint over it eventually.

>> No.32577748


>> No.32577756

Im fucking dead terrified tg,and so I come to you for help.
this,this may not look like much but that what it will be is my favourit plane of all time,and I fucking love it that I got the kit.thing is geting this kit was a bitch to do.took 3 months to find.it HAS to be perfict.all past atempts at modeling are hamhanded fails,but this cant be.I need all of the help.tips teckniques and tools,especialy advice on what tools will help,all I have are some crap brushes and nothing else.I dont fucking care how much it is as long as its reasonable for getting new tools,though this might gimp myself because airbrushes cost a bit much,but other then that any tools that will help?and tips and techniques?

she MUST be perfect,for my great grandfather.

>> No.32577775

now for some orks

>> No.32577781


Praise the Emperor. I hate looking at NAKED tanks. They look like no one is in them.

>Here's a pic of my shitty tanks to show you I share your idea.

>> No.32577800

I'm finally starting to prime minis and either I wasted too much primer or I need a lot of spray cans. I got about 25 30mm minis done with one can, what do people use for cheap spraycan primers?

>> No.32577801

Or just don't slob your brush with 2 tons of paint and show genuine curiosity when it streaks and globs.

Sorry, I don't speak Beaner.

>> No.32577804

Get an airbrush?
Probably the easiest way to get a perfect painted finish with camouflage on wide flat panels. It can be difficult to get perfect, thin layers of paint with a brush.

>> No.32577805


>> No.32577817

Stormboyz nob nearly finished. Getting very frustrated with paint rubbing off on my fingers though when i hold him to paint.

Tried mounting but it just feels awkward trying to get the fine details.

>> No.32577822

I want to fill the gaps with something that won't break every time I move the model. I have been now using the hair dryer to make the left side of a tank fit better by sliding it into place when softened.

cyanocrilate seems like it won't be enough

>> No.32577867

I found the Tamiya kits to be absolutely perfect for this. Not only are they cheap and plentiful on the spures, they are high quality sculpts. About one box outfitted my 6 chimeras and two leman russ. I ordered 4 boxes.

>> No.32577870

>> No.32577876

how much is a cheap one?getting this kit cost me too much fucking time to hunt down,out of make and its canada only.a bitch to find

10 years since he died now,and I want to honour him.

>> No.32577884


>> No.32577896

Wash your hands with good soap before you work the oil from your fingers nukes the paint, and it doesn't help sticking him on top of a paint pot? I usually just hold them by the base myself, so the paint-pot-stand is decent.

>> No.32577920

Thanks for the advice!
if im doing really intricate detail i need to hold that area steady.
I get shakey doing detail up top such as goggles and the face when im holding it down low.

>> No.32577938

any other tips though,i need them ALL.every damn one

>> No.32577951


>> No.32577954


Post your work or leave

>> No.32577969


Get some other models to practice on

>> No.32577971

mhm, I'm trying to think of ways to hold with solid. Sticky putty/blu-tac/poster putty and stick him to a cork or so is what most people do.

Alternatively (if you wanted to try it) you could get some of those super thin plastic gloves from a super store and wear one on the hand you hold him with so skin oils don't transfer.

>> No.32578017

Are there any good metal wearing tutorials out there? I pretty much fall under the dry brush it then wet brush the edges ideology for vehicles. It looks nice but its not great.

>> No.32578055


Tried sponging yet?

>> No.32578058

The bronze on the engines is too thin and not covering the base properly.

Also the red spots on the tail look weird, like you haven't painted the entire panel.

>> No.32578105

Hey mate, I had some bulk tanks to paint.
If you don't have enough cash for an airbrush, try the Tamiya sprays. There's a sand colour that's a really handsome shade for flat colour on vehicles, I used it as a base shade for mine. Masked off the tracks, sprayed a coat or two, did some weathering, painted unit insignia and chaos iconography (the colour was light enough that I got good coverage with thinned white paint, which was good as it chalks up easily when too thick), did some more weathering and was done. Relatively quick and great results.

>> No.32578111

i got a stuka as well to do first,but well,how do i practice techniques that i don't know how to practice.and tools,hence why i come to you.i need your help.
my grandparents and parents are chipping in on this because of whats its meant for,but we go to get the trimming on the morrow,and hence why i come to you.i know almost nothing and theres only to be one trip to the model story because of how fuckass far it is.tell me what's needed to get going to make something good enough to honor him,tough old bastard he was he wasn't tough enough to take flak 88 shrapnel to his foot.ptsd and a missing foot he still was the best person i've ever known.i have to make it good enough.

>> No.32578143

Yeah I've gone sponging, but I mean like wear and fatigue like it looks like it's been set out in the sun for ever. Theres a bit of the hint of it on the Predator chimera here
But I was just kinda guessing and trying out some blending techiqus.

The tail section is meant to look like the paint has begun peeling off. Need to add more definition to it. highlights and shades to give it depth

>> No.32578144

gosh I hate painting. I tried to like it, I really did, but I can't make it not feel like work. but I also hate playing with a grey or primed army. I just throw on base colors and come back through once for touch-ups. Important models might get a dry brush or sloppy ink over the details.

>> No.32578151

>Being assblasted about your painting.
Really kiddo?

My pictures all come out pretty shit, but I'll be happy to show you stuff if you like.

As for your gospel of thin; laughable.

>> No.32578185


Psian Jackals. They are the Eldar killing experts.

>> No.32578194

I'm not sure, I shopped around for one for a friend, can't remember what it was but it was a decent brand, cost a couple of hundred dollaridoos.

You should get another kit to practice on. You'll want some tweezers, some rubber bands, an applicator for your plastic glue and a pin or bit of wire to clear the tube, and probably a small vice too.

>> No.32578219


I tried that and I think I had too much on my brush because it just clumped on and looked like dirt clumps instead of perfect weathering in the cracks and faded on the surfaces.

>> No.32578233

With your scratched-off paint, I'd have a grey primer surface between the drab and the bare metal.

>> No.32578265

as i said,stuka first so it has something to shoot at,just like when he got his first kill.

>> No.32578274


Break it down into steps

First you have to take the kit out of the sprues, cut off any excess plastic, trim the mold lines then sand them smooth.

After that you can start glueing it together as shown in the instructions. Fix any cracks and gaps with greenstuff, then sand that smooth too. Clean off any dust before you move onto priming, either by brush or spray can.

After priming you can start adding colors. Start with the largest areas of color as you'll have less trouble cleaning them up afterwards. Move up from large darker areas to smaller brighter details.

Tbh you're probably better off having the thing commission painted. This stuff takes time to master and you will fuck up your first 20 models.

Just google these steps and you should be good to go.

>> No.32578278

How so? like a layering effect where its "base" green color, then gray then scratched edge or something?

Like I said, I just kinda eyeball it when it comes to wear and have no idea how metal actually wears.

>> No.32578290


This is a WIP thread, either contribute or get out

>> No.32578292

Oh, fine files, clippers, very fine wet and dry...

>> No.32578315

I am contributing, you're just upset because I'm telling people they don't have to thin to the point of having coloured water.

>> No.32578337


You said you don't have to thin at all which is a lie. Certain paints need to be thinned. Citadel bases, for example.

Duncan Rhode from GW advises simply touching your brush to the tip of the water to slightly wet the paint rather than the mass thinning most painters use.

>> No.32578344


You are arguing a moot point instead of posting your work

Talk is just talk

>> No.32578361

priming?what?i admit i'm an idiot in need of an idiots guide.im willing to put this off as long as i make it perfict.even if it takes 60 years,i can take the time unlike his copilot,60 years too early that flak shell took him.

>> No.32578372

>How so? like a layering effect where its "base" green color, then gray then scratched edge or something?
Yeah, green then grey then metal.
Sometimes without the metal, only the grey.
The paint will get chipped on surfaces with the most wear, where there's contact with the ground or objects, like the leading edges and bottom of the hull, where the tracks run, and around hatches and handles.

You do for fine blending, though flow medium is also pretty important in that case IMO. I'd argue that most GW paints are way too thick straight out of the pot. Haven't got around to using too much vallejo yet but I'm inclined to thin slightly what I do use, a few of the uniform shades from the Model Colour range.

>> No.32578379


Try googling the terms you don't know, we can't type out an entire dictionary for you.

>> No.32578404

Priming is an undercoat for the raw surface so that upper layers of paint have something to bind to. Same as painting a house, or anything.

>> No.32578414

ok,will do,but can you guys recommend any basic guides for idiots?i know what the term means but not how its used in a model.

>> No.32578463

So you're a complete noob? Haven't come to this from minis wargaming? I've painted models for years and years, I wouldn't know a guide for complete beginners. Does /tg/ have a decent sticky for this?

>> No.32578483


It's literally

>cut out
>clean again

If painting was easy we wouldn't have musea

>> No.32578487


I know you're trying to assist, and I appreciate that, but I don't give a shit. I no longer game.

>> No.32578492


Use Google.

>> No.32578499

what colour would be recommended for it then?
right now tools are the most important thing,as i only get one trip to get them on the morrow,a good guide for everything one who wishes to truly git fuging good at modeling,everything that would be considered a rather well equipped modeler would have

>> No.32578533


Grey for lighter colors, black for dark colors

Either will do, it's just easier to match them up

>> No.32578556


This isn't /v/. We'd apprciate it if you'd try to make your posts more legible.

>> No.32578605


>> No.32578617

thanks,and tools?Im not a total newb but I never got past 5 year old doing it with his dad for fun stage. I need to git fucking good asap.
sorry, im just trying to get this out as fast as possible, time is short and i need the info on what tools to get to git good with before time runs out.

>> No.32578652

GW paints ARE pretty thick. No argument there. I still don't thin them much, but I do brush off a lot of paint back into the pot when I'm using GW I find.

I'm personally in love with Vallejo, they need a bit of a shake, but they flow really nicely and the dropper bottles (as long as you're getting fresh ones and your stores with replace defects) are pretty great.

>Citadel bases, for example.
I don't use those "special" GW paints. Never felt the need, my regular paints do fine.

You'll probably cry about picture quality.

But here! ENjoy shitty phone quality!

You can't see his eyes/highlights/urban camocloak/base/scope and goggle lens, but whatever.

Use black if you're new.

>> No.32578694


A round crafting/xacto knife for scraping mold lines

Fine sanding paper, pref 1000 to 2000 grit for sanding

Plastic glue and kneadite greenstuff for assembly

Krylon or w/e spray on primer is available to you

Brushes and fine pigment model paints

You want a larger brush for the large areas and a tiny brush for the details. Make a watering pot out of an empty jar. Use plastic plates as a painting station and palette.

>> No.32578721

Scout so stealthy he's just a blur.

>> No.32578741


Oh wow that's fucking terrible. You shouldn't be giving anyone advice and get some glasses asap.

Going to add it to the thin your paints wiki, thanks for the laugh.

>> No.32578759

thanks,thats a good start, any more advanced stuff that would be useful? I've seen these mag glass stands with holding clamps,worth it? or any other stuff like that?

>> No.32578764

Any by tiny he means a "00" brush or similar seriously almost as small as you can get.

Minis and well..Mini, and you'll want a super tiny brush for the details and what not.

>> No.32578775

>Use black if you're new.
Bullshit, moving to white or grey primer was probably the biggest single step that improved my painting. Black a shit

>> No.32578805


It's not the tools you should be worrying about so much. I use a large synthetic brush for large surfaces and a medium brush for small detail. It's all about how skilled the user is.

>> No.32578809

I know.

Go for it? If I ever take a high quality one you'll have a lot of crow to eat while you look stupid. So that's pretty cute.

But power on.

Here's a blurry dreadnaught. But you can see more of the details.

Remember, if you can't paint, make fun of people who can so you can feel better about yourself instead of listening to decent advise.

>> No.32578826

Black hides mistakes and when you're starting out mistakes can be disheartening.

If you want to "Get Good" white is preferred.

>> No.32578839


>decent advice
>don't thin your paints!

Look at his models then ignore his advice people. Seriously man, how much did your parents shield you from failure that you think THIS looks good.

>> No.32578863

My most recent creation. First time I've tried some freehand writing and been satisfied enough with the outcome to keep it.

>> No.32578868

>implying you're ever going to post a non blurry photo
>implying a clear photo won't reveal how shitty your paintjobs are
>implying not thinning your paint is ever good advice unless you're using Model Air or Minitaire

>> No.32578889

>Paint is smooth no streaking.
>Tiny Details are painted.
>Blended fire on the barrel.
>All cords painted.
>Nameplate has a name just a bit blurry.
>Missiles actually gold tipped.
>Bolt heads painted.
I think it's pretty good actually.

Post some of your work tough guy?


>> No.32578909

That gloss is probably making it look worse than it is.

You need to matte that shit.

>> No.32578910

How much gloss varnish did you use? Also, official GW Salamader paint jobs don't feature so much red, nor so much bright red for a reason: makes your marines look Christmassy.

>> No.32578911

Your barrels anon, drill em. Also consider highlighting the backpack.

>> No.32578915

I guess you're the one who needs glasses?

Even on that model you can see some of the details.

Maybe that's why you're a bad painter. Can't see properly.

>> No.32578930


Scroll up and smell the necrons

>> No.32578957


Why don't you learn to take a clear photo before talking shit. You can't even hold a camera steady, how are you supposed to paint anything?

You don't even have any highlights on your models. Probably because your paint is too thick to do any highlighting.

>> No.32578974

>Shades and orange.
Those are pretty boring honestly.

Nice airbrush I guess? That giant empty base is really inspiring too.

>> No.32578995


>blurry pictures
>unthinned paint
>using emoticons
>constantly extremely hostile to everyone
>no one agrees, samefags to make "point"
>can't even check posters or operate a camera

Just stop, it's awkward to have to deal with your assburgers. Either post some good pictures or leave.

>> No.32579011

>"You don't have to thin"
>Talking shit.
On a scale from 1 to Thin, how upset are you at this present moment?

>> No.32579034

I took that just for you my little cuddle button, don't get all flustered now.

And I think there's a couple different people here.

>> No.32579041

still ,its nice to have some of the better stuff so I lean early on how to get good with it. imho i'm a hopeless skilless hack, but I gotta try even though.one things for sure, im never gonna be as good a person as he was no matter how hard I try.

>> No.32579060

>Being this upset someone doesn't thin.
>Their stuff still looks decent even with the blur.
>Says streaking when their isn't any.
Hello Summer.

>> No.32579113


>repeating the same tired lines about things that were never said
>still no pictures of work that doesn't look terrible
>insult everyone instead of trying to improve

Helicopter parents

>> No.32579169

Even with the conveniently bad focus, that still looks pretty meh.

>> No.32579173

>insult everyone instead of trying to improve
Are you talking about yourself again you little darling?

I guess we need a reminder that telling people they don't need to thin their paints to a milky consistency may cause anal leakage or other kinds of meltdowns.

I like how upset you've become though.

Great stuff.

>> No.32579222

That's fine.

Just don't pretend there's streaking or that you can tell where the highlights are. Because with that atrocious picture quality, you really can't see shit sadly.

I even warned the little guy, but I knew he wanted a bad quality pic so he could dance around and shout about the bad painting which, y'know, may or may not be a thing since you can't really see it.

It's really cute though.


>> No.32579232


Dear That Guy,

At the end of the day I'm not the one who is lacking the intelligence to operate a camera, something a 5 year old can do, nor am I the one with shit looking models.

Therefore I must conclude that in fact it is you who is upset, as demonstrated by you in the form of what you probably consider insults.

With regards,


>> No.32579262

"Terrible Phone Quality"
I don't have a fancy phone, sorry matey.
>Writing an open letter like a highschool student.
Hard life full of hard knocks right?

>> No.32579276

>Warlord makes me pretty-pretty!

>> No.32579296

Colourful rats are best rats.

But tell us..Do you Thin?

>> No.32579328

The only paints i thin are my inks, nothing else. All you need is just to control your damn brush

>Thin your paints anon!
>Layers anon!

I want to make whoever started that shit eat their own teeth

>> No.32579408


Watch out, you may just have upset the analblasted anon further up with that talk.

What inks do you use, just the GW brand? I use Vallejo which is quite literally INK, it needs to be drowning before it's even usable.

And I agree, some anons just repeat shit without ever putting a thought towards it.

>> No.32579419


Yeah, flat colors, inks and drybrushing is all you need. Anything else is just showing off. Fuck those assholes and their blending and light effects.

>> No.32579421

Looks pretty good, there's a few touch-ups needed and the paint on the closest one looks a bit chalky and lumpy, but a decent job.

>> No.32579455

While I agree that blending and lighting is advanced and I feel not even really needed at all..You gotta chill a bit dude, gawd dang.


>> No.32579473

>Anything else is just showing off.
That's kinda the point.

>> No.32579498

I use the GW stuff, husband swears by it and he puts out some pretty good stuff
>limp wristed guffaw
Old webcam never do the pics justice. Single particle of dust and it looks like a mountain

>> No.32579547

Interesting. I've gone back to GW flesh wash recently, I don't think it can be beat honestly. Has he tried Vallejo or P3 by chance?

And hey now anon, that's a fine pic. At least they're clear if a lil shadowy.

Could be worse. Gaze upon my circa 2000 cellphone camerawork and despair.

>> No.32579554

Listen to the Anon saying you should have it commissioned assembled and painted. For $200 you can get someone to take care of this. All your posts give a sense of desperation if this does not come out right. If you want it to be a personal effort, then go work on other models for a couple of years. If time is an issue, then your sanity will be preserved if you commission this piece out. Godspeed, and your grandfather would appreciate all the effort you are going through to honor him.

>> No.32579594

I kind of agree with this..but I think you should only do it as a last resort.

Even if you don't do an AMAZING job. There's something special about a gift that someone made themselves. It's way more personal.

Might be just me, but I'd appreciate the gift more if it was all your work, even if it's not the next Golden Demon winner.

Godspeed anon, hope it works out, and post your work!

>> No.32579662


Why am I not surprised that you're super poor

>> No.32579699

If i could just chime in,
I never thinned my paints.
Apparently it's bare basics, but i could only describe my skill level as advanced, and i painted some very good stuff.

Only recently did I learn that thinning paints was actually a thing, so i've started doing it, and now i'm even better.
I've realised it's absolutely essential to doing some details neatly.

My point is, you can paint good shit without thinning your paints.
But if you want to get even better...THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS.

>> No.32579723

I'm actually gainfully employed (how do you think I buy minis dude?) I just don't spend money on what I consider to be useless things.

My phone makes phone calls. That's what I use it for. Some people have different priorities.

Amazing right?

Keep trying though cutie, and don't forget to Thin!

>> No.32579770


>all pro painters thin their paints or use airbrush paints

Yeah, I'll take a grande latte to go

>> No.32579781

It is essential for smooth blending that's for sure. But most people asking for basic advice here are just trying to get paint on the model and not go for advanced stuff.

Seems to be the case anyway.

>> No.32579800

Left is thinned, right is non thinned.
See the checkers are neat but gloopy.

You can paint well without thinning your paints, so this guy has a point.
Hes just being a massive fucking faggot about it, employing neckbeard argument tactics of cute words to show how hardcore and not bothered he is.
You sound like an utter penis.

Why not actually try thinning?
Ive used both methods and i prefer it all day.

>> No.32579802


I didn't say either of those things.

Go outside and get some fresh air. Come back when you're less upset.


>> No.32579833


Actually the checkers aren't neat in the picture..
They look neat when you see it in your hand though.

>> No.32579839

Were you accusing me of "talking shit" by saying you don't have to thin?

Because that's the basis of the whole argument unless you missed something.

And saying you don't have to thin is not a personal attack against you.

>> No.32579840

Looks good. What is your speed like with Orks?

>> No.32579850

And? There's no reason not to develop good habits early.

>> No.32579857

I honestly dont see enough difference to fuss about it. If your paint is gloopy, use less, spread it further

>> No.32579886

Unfortunately "good habits" don't involve filling your paint pot with water, or painting with milk.

Two things which are almost encouraged here.

>> No.32579887


>u mad
>get refuted
>maybe post your work then

I know your coffee is free but lay off the caffeine

>> No.32579902


I'm talking to whoever the guy is saying you don't have to thin and refuses to do so, and is posting blurry pics of his work.

You don't HAVE to thin, but it will make you a better painter and advance you to the next level.
It's essential for blending and minute detail.

>> No.32579904


>> No.32579907

I think people are just getting upset for the sake of being upset and taking "You don't need to Thin!" as a personal attack against them.

Which is a bit sad.

>> No.32579931

I'm glad this thread is going to die soon.

>> No.32579934


I posted a couple of stormboyz in the thread too.
If i'm doing a full detail model, my speed is atrocious.

This guy has taken me something like 9 hours and i still haven't done the weathering on him.

I can do a bare minimum squad of boyz in a day though.

>> No.32579939

>it's essential for blending and minute detail

except, y'know, its not. The flowers and vines were done in non-thinned paint but used ina dry brush pattern.

>> No.32579949


Only a really dumb person who is so self centered that he's not even reading the replies and just making shit up as he goes in order to protect his self image would think that.

>> No.32579969

Why are you using your grandfather's head as a painting table?

>> No.32579975


>no blending anywhere

Into the trash it goes

>> No.32579977

>You don't need to thin.
>Yes you do or your model will be a gloopy streak!.
>No you don't look here's some streak free models.
Ok child.

>refuses to do so
He said he didn't feel the need most of the time?


>> No.32579981

The guy who posted the pot of paint he'd filled with water was funny as hell.

Anyway "use a wet pallet" + "don't paint from the pot" + "thin your paints" are all supposed to go together.

>> No.32579993


Oh no, I just kind joined the debate to say it doesn't really matter either way, but i prefer thinning now.

And to call the guy getting upset about paint thinning a faggot.

>> No.32579996

That's funny because I was thinking the same thing about someone who needs to yell at someone over the internet because they don't thin their paint.

>> No.32580014


>I'll take stuff that nobody said for 400

At least try to appear like you finished highschool

>> No.32580017

Thats m'knee m8y

>> No.32580022

>doesn't really matter either way
You're doing gods work anon.

And I'd agree with you simply based on your reasonable and polite discourse.

>> No.32580028


I have a ruined Lilith model - body is fine, mouth was botched... GW sent me a good one later for free,but I still have the bad one...

Know whose body is very scantily clad and similar?

>> No.32580030


>over 4chan

Oh wow

>> No.32580033

Are army painter any good? One of the vallejo stockists I use also has their stuff.

>> No.32580043

I can't do it. I have been trying for the last 6 hours to get this color scheme right for my IG and i just can't fucking do it.

>> No.32580044


Oh, he did? I just saw him getting flustered about it earlier. I'm half asleep and wasn't paying much attention.


>no blending
>no minute detail


>> No.32580084

> nothing to blend
> doesnt call the vines and flowers minute details

Double Mochachino please go

>> No.32580095

Vallejo Model Colour might be ableto come to the rescue there. Not really familiar with much of their more German shades tho.

>> No.32580097

Language is fun.

>"You don't need to thin you paints."
>"I don't thin my paints"
What? Are you just using that word cause the other guy used it further up in the thread?

Well, at least you have the excuse of being half asleep I guess?

>> No.32580158


I said I do thin my paints...

>> No.32580227

Flustered wasn't the right word is all, more incredulous.

Go to sleep.

>> No.32580277

I like it.

Nice bright colours too.

>> No.32580307


I never used the word flustered...

Haha, well it's 05:22 so i probably should.


....Oh wait, i was just showing you my posts...
Turns out i did say flustered!
I meant way earlier on.
I have no idea.
I clearly cant remember what i said 10 minutes ago.

>> No.32580365

Oh..I think I'm lost too anon.

What..so who's flustered now? Is it me?

Is it this guy who thinks he's at starbucks (>>32580084)?

What's going on?! Are we still painting miniatures here?


Ah well, have a goodnight man.

>> No.32580437

Eres me nobz anyway.

>> No.32580460

>> No.32580500

>> No.32580522

>> No.32580526

I use a couple of their washes and those are great.

Haven't used their regular paints though.

>> No.32580527

I told you to sleep you crazy man!

Those are really nice and crisp though. I feel the "Goff Black" look makes everything look unfinished, but I really like them.

Love that green you have going on for the skin tones though. The red is quite nice too.

All GW paints?

>> No.32580543

Double power cybork? That's a conversion I assume?

Funky looking.

>> No.32580633


Ha! Going now.
I purchased some nice reds to make them jump out a bit more.
They looked really bland without the red.

I use a mix of GW and vallejo, but i'm leaning more towards GW now.
I started off with the vallejo black but it gives kind of a bluey glossy finish, which is nice, but not for orks.

The skin is skarsnik green, washed with athonian camoshade, with a second layer of skarsnik.
Then 50:50 skarsnik/screaming skull, and then straight screaming skull on the most extreme ridges like brows, lips and knuckles.

I actually now prefer my own skintone to the eavy metal ones, which is a first.
Obviously it's not as well painted, but i think it compliments the red better, especially the eyes.

If you look at the nob i used for the thinned comparison pic, he looks fucking mental.

>> No.32580661


Just bits from the nob sprue.
Obviously 2 PKs is useless but i wanted to make something that looked more machine than ork.
Like boarderline mini mega armour.

>> No.32580718

You're good people anon.

And yea I like the red a lot, makes them pop nicely.

I exclusively use GW black..Vallejo just doesn't feel right. I think you hit the nail on the head with the bluish hue.

I love that skin, it's really nice, and a good paler tone on the grots too, stellar. I don't like the GW tone much I always find it's to light or dark. So I think your recipe came out pretty nicely.

That nob is great, it's hard to see the eyes but you caught his perfectly.

Good stuff.

>> No.32580774


Ignore the actual paintjob on the ammo runt though. He was a shitty 2 minute job.

Got it more nailed on the stormboy nob higher up in the thread though with the rocket grot.

>> No.32580790

Ok bro I got you. Olive green mixed with browns and greys.

I would use I think Codex Grey for the sleeves and cloth.

Maybe Gobbo Green with a light brown for holsters and stuff..It depends on if you can get a nice drab Vallejo green since I know they have some good ones.

Don't Thin while mixing.

>> No.32580861

I'd post some of my WIP blood angels but my computers being weird and saying my images have embedded files.

>> No.32580881

Did you Thin?

>> No.32580900

found some old metal catachans going to paint them all this orange jumpsuit.

I like the idea of a renegade force emptying the prisons to fight for them

>> No.32580967


The skin looks different from yesterday? I vaguely recall seeing it right before going to bed.

>> No.32580991


It does that if you don't shrink the images. Just resize them via Paint.

>> No.32581053

Yes an anon told me to glaze it, so I glazed it.
Used to look like this.

>> No.32581073

Those are pretty neato. Love the idea.

The collar is a nice touch. What did you use to make them?

Did you Thin?

>> No.32581091

Nice improvement.

Genuinely impressed.

>> No.32581103


Wow, that is quite a difference. Good job on the eyes too, looking forward to see the rest

>> No.32581149

Here's a bust I've been working on since I've been getting bored working with my nids and wanted to try something new.
I've taken my first stab at predarkening and glazing on the sleeve and glove and am very happy with the results.

>> No.32581178

Just finished my first time painting. No pic until I can find my damned camera (which won't be until I don't need it). Base layers, layer on detail to minor parts, misc ink washes, touchups, cry in corner, done. Guardsman Sergeant.

Some advice regarding paint? I've made my wet palette with tupperware, wet paper towels, and parchment paper. It seems to work? Paint seems too thick or too thin. Nothing inbetween. It's driving me insane. Also, the dropper bottles seem to retain paint at the very tip (so it's always spilling out within the cap), and they don't seem to drop consistently.

Paint should have "the consistency of milk" for properly thinned? Seems that way out of the bottle, any thinner and it just doesn't take instead pooling everywhere and not staying where I want it. Dry brushing seems to be the only way to get the color to stick at all, but not thinning it dries way too rough. I'm talking single drop of water difference too. Not sure how it's supposed to actually sit on the model. Ink washes go on MUCH much more evenly than the paint, so much so that I wish I could just paint with nothing but ink washes.

Got the spray primer. Actually regret not getting paint-on for touch-ups of primer. Also, paint seems to flake off really easy even with the primer. Not sure how it should be since it's my first time, but it's bothering me.

First world painter problems.

>> No.32581541

Fucked up a bit, but I'll be touching up my issues tomorrow morning. A fair bit of work left on the fucker, but he's getting there.

>> No.32581561

GOD DAMN I'M RETARDED, pic attached

>> No.32581573

>body is fine, mouth was botched
>Know whose body is very scantily clad and similar?
If the first thing is right, wouldn't you be looking for a new head then?
Either way I'd just build a cool model with it. Put her on a Hellion or something like that.

>> No.32581598

>says he doesn't use Citadel paints
>motherfucker has a Citadel paint bottle in the background
I think he's lying and using other people's pictures.

>> No.32581600

I've seen you post this at least three times now, but so fair you've never shown any of you models iirc.
So if you've tried looking for the color in the vallejo model range - like i already posted yesterday - then your problems are not with the colors, but the painting.

Post some of your minis so we have something to actually talk about here.

>> No.32581640

add something like dish cleaner into the black for the mail to break the surface tension. Helps avoid those annoying bubbles.

>> No.32581729

Geezus, that's wonderful already. I'm sure it'll be beautiful when is done.

Is that a Templar? The cross symbol is kinda throwing me off. Second guess is a Knight of Malta.

>> No.32581787

It's the Varangian Guard from Linjo.

>> No.32581807

Never said that.
>I don't use those "special" GW paints
Like the bases paints/whatever the different names they have for their stuff.

And I can assure you those are my pictures conspiracy theories aside. Why would anyone post low quality pictures to make a point? Only reason I did post them in the first place is because a intellectual individual couldn't handle the idea of painting without thinning.
So I showed him it was possible without streaking and globbing and he got upset, I assume because his paint does streak and glob, and here we are.
Try to keep up.

>motherfucker has a Citadel paint bottle in the background
Why so mad doe.

>> No.32581836

nice thread

>> No.32581842

>Buying Citadel Paints
How does it feels to be raped by a bunch of jews?

>> No.32581900

My FLGS sells them "cheap" because they no longer stock GW product.

Which is why I mostly use Vallejo.

>> No.32581928

Dis git makes me want to paint my orkz again.

Wat wif da new codex fingy comin' out it might be werf it.

Last ov da boyz I painted right 'ere.

'elp a boy out inta gettin back ta paintin' mo boyz.

>> No.32581941

Wait, now I'm confused. I thought you said you used Vallejo, but are you saying you also use the Base paints from Citadel?

>Why so mad doe.
Cuz I felt like I was being lied to, and I didn't like that. It would be really easy to steal someone's blurry picture from a while back and claim it as your own work. Seems especially mean in a place that relies so much on trust so you're not just being every anon.

>> No.32581946

Do you Thin?

>> No.32581955

and da rokkit pack

>> No.32581988

I only thin where I wanted it thin.

On orkish metal I almost never thin a thing, on clothing, and armor paint I thin like a madman.

>> No.32582000

I'm sorry, I don't get this whole argument. If you can paint well without thinning your paints, especially in the case of liquidy Vallejo, that's fine. But lots of people here start out with GW paints and GW models, and it's good advice for those just starting out. If your paint is thin, you have more control over it (that's what it feels like to me when I paint, at least), and it allows you to clean up mistakes with less hassle.

>> No.32582010

I just used greenstuff to make the collar.
Paint was partially thinned, orange over black undercoat made it hard... Of course it had to be thinned for the glaze too.
>>32581091 thanks, really was the other anons idea.
thank you

>> No.32582035

I use a majority of Vallejo paints. I do also own some GW Paints.

I have one GW Wash, and some GW paints, though some like my Elf Flesh are from the 90s.

Doesn't GW have like "Weathering" and "Pigments" now and such? Like, they have paints that are specifically "Basecoats" and "Layers"?
I don't use those to my knowledge. I thought he meant a Basecoat Paint, but a misunderstanding is possible.

>> No.32582090

Actually from my experience thinning paints mean two thing.

It makes the paint easier to control yes, but it also comes out cleaner and a bit less sloppy with variances coming into effect:
How old is the paint?
Where was it stored?
How was the humidity; Temp in that area?
What brand is it
What kind of bottle is it in?

Personally mine get thick, but then again mine sit on my desk, where my Computer is and I smoke heavily, so the paint bottles get some wear, Hell my flesh tone has a cigarette burn in it. The paints themselves vary in age, I have some that are almost a decade old (Citadel paint thick pillar bottle) Some are a few months.

Funnily enough the oldest paint I own is in better condition than the newest. Both being whites.

>> No.32582098

When I first started out, I started getting advice to thin my paints. That actually made me think about how much I was thinning my paints and how I was applying them, and what I thought looked best. It lead me to look over how I painted.

Now suddenly over the course of one thread, thinning paints has become some sort of taboo hush hush thing.

Yeah, they do, and technical paints and such. But most of it is just names - bases are the most basic paints. I'm pretty sure Vallejo has similar naming conventions for paints meant for different uses and with different consistences.

>> No.32582115

Gotta clean flashing and fix some gaps.

>> No.32582117

Thinning is a gateway to nice layering and blending without having those hard lines. It's also nice to be able to paint a transparent style if you wanted to pull something like that off. I've done both and I've found thinning to be in my favor. Takes a little longer but my miniatures come out cleaner which I like, plus it saves on paint big time if you use a retarder. A little dab and I have a mixture, of water/retarder and the paint is smoother and I can work with it longer. Same effect with a wet palette. So it comes down to what you prefer. This hobby is a trial and error, gotta learn yourself IMO.

>> No.32582118

I was saying you don't have to thin to achieve good results. Even with GW paints.

The point is to stop people from doing what that one guy did (Dump water in the pot) or try to paint yellow with a over-thinned consistency so you never get solid colour.

That's about it.

I didn't say you shouldn't do it, I said you can achieve good results without it.

>> No.32582135

Also gotta get dat $250 giftcard man, that's good deal.

>> No.32582151

Vallejo's "base paints" are the heavy paints. They're just the old foundation paints plus or minus the odd one with different names.

I'm also giving up on my reply to that guy. I can't send it without wanting to punch him. I've almost sent it a few times. I suppose I'll just wait until someone wants to compliment me on my Raicho :c

>> No.32582156

I think the treads are pretty important, too...still, I like this. I love how Chaos-y it looks already.

>> No.32582179

Nah, I was just gonna chain em up to these guys and pull it like a sled.

Speaking of which, I DO need to finish these. I got them on their bases but need to gap-fill and base detail before I prime...

>> No.32582248

>I'm also giving up on my reply to that guy. I can't send it without wanting to punch him.

What's wrong with you?

>I suppose I'll just wait until someone wants to compliment me on my Raicho
It's to blurry! Blarhgahgfahl I will add this to the wiki under bad painting jobs ex dee!

It's actually coming along really nicely. The red is a striking contrast and is pulled back enough it doesn't give a "Christmas" vibe which is always a risk going red/green.

The blue details are nice, maybe do something with his joints to make his plating pop a bit more? But I'm not sure if you're willing to delve back into him as it were.

I like the colour palette a lot though, the pastel green with a solid red is a nice touch.

>> No.32582281

You planning you put that command on a big double base like that?

I like it.

Can we get another pick of those two a lil closer?

>> No.32582393

I was thinking of a scenic base that they can slip into at the time, yeah, but atm its less of a priority than finishing the models.

I would KILL for some rough rider officers in the IG codex - was it to hard to simply give Veterans and Command Squads an option to take horses?

>> No.32582427

Pretty nice GS skills, I honestly thought it was a metal gubbin you'd pilfered from somewhere.

Looks like it'll turn out great, be sure to post pictures!

>rough riders
>tfw remembering rough rider armies.
Anon please, my heart can only be so broken.

>> No.32582432


>> No.32582457

Oh quick question, how do you cut your brass rod flush? Clippers or dremel?

>> No.32582472

I'll put it simply and quickly, and then I'm asleep.

Yes, you can paint without thinning. Some paints work without thinning. It usually adds a strange amount of time to insure proper coverage. I've been painting for some eight years, and do I always thin my paints? At this point, pretty much yes. It's something you just do.

How does thinning a paint work? You decrease the pigment count and allow for a more dilute spread of paint that will cure according to a different surface tension to allow you to layer the paint to create an even coating with little hassle. The purpose of it is to spend the least effort to achieve the best result. I can tell you that after working with different lines for a good hundred models in each line, I can tell you that the only constant was thinning. Even washes.

I want to yell at you about your other stuff, but I'm too tired. Good night.

>> No.32582491

for me, dremel with the (i forget, its been a good 2 years since i did those guys) right head, can cut through cleanly.

clippers WILL bend brass rods. actually im not sure if i clipped them or not. I have them stowed away atm and about to go to sleep, don't feel like dragging them out.

>> No.32582501

>Implying I don't know all this.


>> No.32582519

Thanks for the info.

>> No.32582543

Neither of those problems are problems with thinning though.

Dumping water in a paint pot is just idiocy and when painting yellow or red and aren't smart enough to prime in white/grey then you will need many thin layers to get something that doesn't look like shit.

You're cutting off your nose to spite your face here.

>> No.32582545

Before sleep, you can cut brass rods with flush cutters if you have a good pair, you just need to accept a sacrificial piece of brass rod for the cause. I have a metal cutting set for my Dremel that I use for certain things, but I haven't really used it for brass rods. Would I recommend? Maybe.

>> No.32582609

But browbeating people to Thin their paint isn't great either especially if most stores are starting to stock more paints that aren't GW.

Maybe we should tell people to "Thin Responsibly"?

People apparently take thinning very seriously, which I honestly didn't anticipate.

And I'll take my share of blame for shit flinging. Though I did get my own picture on wiki I believe, that's pretty cool.

I use a dremel but it's not always ideal. Disc cutters and what not.

>> No.32582654


Holy shit, are you STILL fucking talking about thinning paint when nobody gives a fuck until you post your work

If you have some cool techniques to share with unthinned paint, just share them already instead of shitting up the thread with 50 inane posts about "U MAD CUZ I DONT THIN MAH PAINTS"

>> No.32582725


>dem brass rods

Loving it but it's going to be a biiiiiitch to transport

>> No.32582743

But I did post my work? Blurry pictures, but the point stands.

And one of you did the cute.
>Wiki post ex dee
Song and dance.

And now we're here.

Why so upset cutie pie? Like actually?

>> No.32582771


>pictures that SHOW your work

The whole idea of thinning paint is that it helps with transitions and painting details, which we can't see in your pictures so effectively you posted nothing.

But sure, keep spouting your dumb inane comments, it's all you're capable of anyway.

>> No.32582823

Well, if you tried looking closely you could see some of that. I mean, you can see the skull in the purity seal, and the silver rivets. Not clearly, but they're there.

But eh, keep being upset. It's honestly of no concern to me and takes no skin off my back at all. Which is probably how I stay cool and collected while you get mouthy and drop petty insults.
Which seems to be all you're capable of.

>> No.32582851


So apparently you can't even remember what you post even if you only have to scroll up. Interesting.

>that white blur is supposed to be X and it's really well painted because I say so

Thin your paints, learn to take pictures

>> No.32582896

I mean, I could open it in paint and circle stuff and be all
>This is a small detail, you can tell it's painted, if the paint looks streaked, you may have problems with your eyesight.
But I don't think you need pandering like that. I have more respect for you.

Do you even Thin?

>> No.32583017

that guy is having a terrible day.

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