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[ERROR] No.32528420 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [4plebs] [archived.moe]

Last WIP thread 404'd.

>> No.32528692


looks nice do some highlighting on the helmet/shoulder pads so it doesn't look like a peep going to war and i'd say its golden.

>> No.32528709

Almost finished my first centurion. What do u think?

>> No.32528886

How about my custom Doom Diver?

>> No.32529026

Been working some more on this guy. Almost done, too.
The faceplate is missing something, I think. Maybe the eyes need coloring?

>> No.32529088

Oh, that is really nice, especially the scales.
The guns and the pistons framing the head are not done yet, I assume.

>> No.32529101


Lightning on the blades and bright glowing eyes would be cool. Maybe green would work with the purple

>> No.32529102

It's dope, but what chapter is that?

>> No.32529132


A few pointers for your gems? Use at least three colors when you are going for that really shiny look. Really light at the bottom and dark at the top. The white dot should come after a croissant shaped white.

>> No.32529155

Eyes are actually orange and the glow there is about the only thing still missing.
Sorta hard to see thanks to my shitty camera, I admit.
I'll eat my nonexistant hat if those aren't Salamanders

>> No.32529188

Can't wait to see this painted. Keep us updated while wip. Looks awesome.

>> No.32529243

It looks sweet. I really dont know what to say. Is the barrel made of modeling putty or something?

>> No.32529262


>so many skulls

I don't envy you

>> No.32529280

ont like the models but you've done a good job. Like the pelts


dont know about the dual weilding but I like the colours, keep up the good work

Nice! I like the shading on the droplets

>> No.32529324


Thanks mate. When you do it hundreds of times you git gud at it I guess. I don't really know how many blood drops and skulls I've painted since I started this hobby.

>> No.32529405

I plan on getting a .4mm-nozzled 5ml-cupped Infinity Airbrush. Does anyone know if I can cheap out on the compressor and just pick this up from a nearby HF?


>> No.32529504


Does it run on electricity and how much pressure can it put out?

>> No.32529535

I've got terrible grip so my models are poorly painted but I'm getting better

Those are some damn nice models man

>> No.32529587


Elbows on the desk, fingers pressed together?

Different topic:

Any good recommendations on hobby drills and model saws? I have some crappy ones that I've been using but I want more flexibility in what I can do with them, as in exchangeable drill/saw bits.

Though I'd rather not overpay, price isn't really an issue as I'll be using them for years anyway.

>> No.32529601

I assume it runs on electricity, it's a compressor after all. I've never seen a gas powered airbrush compressor or the like. As for pressure, the maximum is 58 PSI. The link has all the information.

>> No.32529607


The barrel is GW's Chaos Hellcannon's barrel.

>> No.32529639


You only need 3 PSI for most airbrushing anyway so I guess it'll work fine.

>> No.32529664

Well, it does have a regulator. I'm just wondering if anyone knew any particular information about it. I can't find anything on that specific model searching around, and I'm about to head out for a supply run.

>> No.32529704


You can essentially run an airbrush off a pressurized car tire so I guess it's fine. Just read some reviews to find out if it might or might not explode and make sure you have the right cables to fit it.

>> No.32529729

Well, if you say so. I'm just worried that I'll end up needing a $170 airbrush compressor from H&F or Iwata or something.

>> No.32529862


Only if you want to spray paint a monster truck with it

>> No.32530046

Just finished my first ork. Gotta say, after painting nothing but SM and a few 'nids, I've enjoyed painting ork armor the most so far. Tried out ryza rust/typhus corrosion for the first time too. Meh pic quality.

>> No.32530115

Close up of the axe, thought the flicking method of blood was effective, if not messy.

>> No.32530150

Why are the last few models with something you missed more of a pain in the ass than all the ones you painted in batches?

>> No.32530216

Well, thanks then.

>> No.32530334


Skin tone needs work. There isn't much depth as is. Start from a dark green base coat and layer on progressively lighter shades of green, leaving a bit of the previous layer showing each time.

>> No.32530387

thanks for the tip, skintones are always my hardest bit to do, no matter the race

>> No.32530758

started converting my old ogryns with new heads and paint jobs, heres one of 3 examples

>> No.32530767

I like the metal parts, the pants are meant to look messy but it just looks like you fucked up.

>> No.32530771

thinking about buying more old ones and making a whole army

>> No.32530785

trying to be diverse for the less fortunate

>> No.32530797

I love your smooth colors. Did you just do a fuckton of layers?

>> No.32530800


>black ogryns

Somehow that makes perfect sense

>> No.32530804

nasty dirty WIP of my honourguard

>> No.32530837

oh jesus it does

i need to make a squad of blackgryns

are they dumber than normal ogs?

>convert an og to be holding a watermelon and having a big affro
>bling them all up
>wheel'd APC with spinners

>> No.32530921


They're pretty much already black people except they're depicted as white. I think an afro would make it go into racist territory and people would frown upon it. Giving them a mohawk and bling is fine though, but you'll require a pilot wearing a cap, an old sarge smoking a cigar and a handsome callidus assassin.

Together, they drive a taurox and kill heretics.

>> No.32530968

the A-team

holy fuck this is my next project

A-team ogryns

>> No.32531005

any better on dem pants? Just did a quick touch up.
Slightly better pic quality this time too

>> No.32531069

Yeah looks better, like mud oil food stains.

>> No.32531080


Better, but
>touch up the left shoulder, spot of yellow there
>nails on the axe hand
>red of the eyes isn't red enough yet
>wash the metal bits on the shoulder
>drill the gunbarrel and blacken it
>give the leather straps on the boots a different color
>put some highlights on the skin

>> No.32531159

Guardsman I've been working on. It's kinda crappy so I'll probably strip it later but I've been trying to get edge highlighting down, I'm not quite sure how its going. Any pointers would be appreciated.

>> No.32531206

Shit nigga why would you strap that? A dark wash over the flesh will make it look great.

>> No.32531227


Edge highlighting is pretty easy

>get a small, synthetic brush because you want something rigid
>get a little paint on it, wipe off any excess on your palette
>don't want it to run after all
>angle the model to reduce surface contact with the brush
>don't use the tip of the brush, but the side of the tip to gently color in the edges
>your brush should be loaded up just barely enough to do this in 2 or 3 small strokes

>> No.32531238

Also working on my boyz. What do you think of these two? I was thinking of adding the camo pants to the design on the right, otherwise leave it like that.

>> No.32531249


Also, you can still easily fix that model. Either by thinning the lines by retouching it with the original green, or by throwing a couple of dark green washes on it while washing the edges less. This creates a blending effect.

>> No.32531251


>> No.32531276

Reminder to thin your paints.

>> No.32531285


Only kommandos really bother with being sneaky so it's a matter of your personal preference here. Either way you'll be fielding them in huge blobs so it's up to you whether you feel like it's worth doing the camo pants.

>> No.32531316

It looks fine.

Have you watched this? It's a pretty good guide to painting Cadians.

>> No.32531323

I'd do more contrast.
Also IMO camo works bes when adding progressively darker and smaller splotches.

>> No.32531332


I'm with >>32531285

a proppa boy don't need no silly kamoflage

>> No.32531366

I spend way too long on a single ork anyway, might add ten more minutes for some of them while I'm at it.
I imagined they just took it from some dead humies. It's more to make the whole mob more diverse.

>> No.32531391

Also, thanks.

Does anyone have an idea on how to make my weapons look better/more realistic? The silver colour seems inappropriate.

>> No.32531395

I wish I had more ork legs. I need more ork legs. I've been putting orks in barrels, piles of wheels and welded them on drones. I have nothing left.

>> No.32531413

Been working on some Dire Wolves out in the sun today, plan on running them as Flesh Hounds of Khorne in 40k (current FH models look goofy as fuck)

I just aim for a decent tabletop standard.

>> No.32531493


Airbrush. I can get the same look with a regular brush too but it takes more time of course.

>> No.32531502

Thanks man, appreciate it.
I suppose i could try that.
Thanks for dropping that link, that could help a lot.

>> No.32531686

me too :D

>> No.32531692

Appreciate the criticism guys, will work on it.

>> No.32531695

Blood Axes have been known to use camouflage army-wide. It's viable.

>> No.32532070


>> No.32532427

Basic scheme, for basic models.

>> No.32532632

What's a good way to wash bleached bone? Going for a bit of a darker shade over the top.

>> No.32532649

My first attempt at making a lava base. I'm not sure should I bust out an airbrush and make the middle a bit brighter, drybrushs it with yellow or leave it like this. Thoughts?

>> No.32532674

Dark brown or black.

>> No.32532687

It needs yellow and orange badly.

>> No.32532757

This was my attempt.

Tip: Go from Dark red to near white. Glaze lots of layers.

>> No.32532844

With a different light and background.

>> No.32533011

Wtf I thouht you were never suppose to thin metallics... Im fucking retarded.

>> No.32533078

Metallics should be highlighted and shadowed just like any other paint.

>> No.32533803


Heh, that's metal pigment paint. It rusts if you add water to it. For those you have to use 96% alcohol.

>> No.32534069

Ehh... no.

Acrylic metallic (and regular) paint should always be thinned with water or other water-based medium.

Only alcohol based paints should be thinned with alcohol.

>> No.32534135

Any good recommendations on hobby drills and model saws? I have some crappy ones that I've been using but I want more flexibility in what I can do with them, as in exchangeable drill/saw bits. Some bigger heads to be able to magnetize stuff would be nice too.

What drills do you guys use?


Metal pigment paint IS alcohol based paint, like vallejo old gold.

>> No.32534170

Buy a hobby engraver. Mine comes with saw, drills, engravers. Very handy.

>> No.32534503


Sounds good, any brand in specific you recommend?

>> No.32534519

I have got your pic related, it works for me, only broken one drillbit so far, not even while drilling.

>> No.32534634

Bloody fantastic.

>> No.32534717

Posted in the last thread right before it died

>> No.32534791

>What drills do you guys use?
I made my own. Only cost was the drill heads The head is enbeded on an old brush and the brush is enbeded in a pen and it works perfectly on plastics

>> No.32534814

How'd you do the cloth? 6 years of painting, I still can't get the standard Cadian colour scheme right, I have to do something else.

>> No.32534821

Great, but I think it's been mentioned that the metal just doesn't look right so shiny.

>> No.32534831


Thanks guys, I think I'm just going to buy a bunch of drill bits and glue them into a piece of wood or a pen for starters, then maybe upgrade to an engraver later on.

>> No.32534853

as a word bearer I like the armor color

>> No.32534878

I know but I've been told, but I like the shiny metals like they have polished all the metals in their proud warrior tradition.

>> No.32534882

The GW one has like a twisting part that you put in the palm of your hand, that way you can twist with your fingers without having to make the full rotating/drilling motion. Pretty usefull

>> No.32534912


It looks pretty flat though, not really polished. Maybe hit it with some black ink and then do the flat colour again? Would make it actually look polished.

>> No.32535113

Army shot, I hurriedly got them to tabletop standard for a tournament last weekend

>> No.32535132

25 models and 2 hours later...

>> No.32535135

>what you made vs. first results on google images.
I'm done with this shit. Either I put 100 plus hours into each model or an hero

>> No.32535147


Just git gud

>> No.32535232

>expecting to be ilya repin the first time you paint

years of practice, talking to people, looking at other minitures, years of practice and lots of mistakes

>> No.32535595


>start to learn violin
>watch first result of violin playing on google vids
>give up

That's how you sound right now

>> No.32535950

>> No.32535970

just starting to paint my runtherd for my gretchin.and I want to paint him purple to contrast the yellow of his armour any ideas how I could paint him?

>> No.32535973


>> No.32535991

forgot the picture

>> No.32536005

Kinda good, im interested in what else you do to it

>> No.32536028

Interesting idea. I'm curious to see how it'll end up, but if I may offer a suggestion? The highlights on the black are far too drastic. I think you should build to the white with a layer or two of grey.

>> No.32536079

Thanks. I'll remember that and practice it on the next model.

>> No.32536106


>> No.32536384

Decided to leave him as is. Applying coats of glow in the dark paints. Just tried it out in the bathroom. It's very faint, so cant promise any pictures.

>> No.32536399

I like it.
Now paint up another 19.

>> No.32536492

Different anon, critique my Dragons.

>> No.32536508


>> No.32536811

The best quality I could get. It looks really nice in total darkness, but the camera couldnt pick up.

>> No.32536869

Cool effect, but what's the point?

>> No.32536953

This is the only Eldar model I have. Guess I'm just trying to get the most fun out of it.

>> No.32537672

How am I doing, /tg/? I've been working on that Shoota a bit, but the servitor was done in an evening.

Can I salvage that checkerboard pattern on the shoota, or do I have to start again?

>> No.32537765


Clean up your brushstrokes, thin your paints, the skin on the servitor needs touching up, the face as well, try some more variation in the metal tones to give the model some contrast, and yes the checker pattern can be saved, fill out the top row first blue square a bit more, and the top row second white square, so that the edges are crisper.

>> No.32537767

Some GKs I've posted before, but never all together and not to this level of completion. There's still a ways to go with most of them, and they took some damage while in storage with a friend, but overall I'm liking them. All Terminators will be painted in that red/white/brass colour scheme--I have a handful still in sprues.

>> No.32537868

Thanks for the advice. Can I ask what you mean by cleaning my brushstrokes?

>> No.32537884


>Completed 25 models in 2 hours

... Aaaand it shows.

>> No.32537947

Fo tabletop standard im happy, i can go back and fix them up over the next few months.

>> No.32537986


>> No.32538052


Sure thing. Basically be more careful with how much paint you're applying to the model, and more importantly, where you're applying it. For example, with the checker pattern, you want to be very careful to keep the pattern looking precise (to an Orky standard though, haha) which requires clean brushstrokes. A lot of it is patience and practice.

>> No.32538075


>drilled some barrels, not others
>not all barrels drilled to same caliber


>> No.32538122


They're not DONE, anon. The pic is titled GK WIPs, for god's sake! Fear not, for all bolters will be drilled to the caliber of the Terminator you see. I just need to get my hands on another hobby drill...

>> No.32538153


Ok, phew, you scared me. Good to hear it.

>> No.32538165


What do you think of them, otherwise?

>> No.32538308

Oh, I understand. Thanks! I never tried freehand painting before, but I thought it was necessary for Orks.Makes it look propah orky.

>> No.32538660

any suggestions on what purples I should use for a base and highlight and what wash?

>> No.32538730


Color theory and color wheel is bullshit. It only works when you use color schemes I like

>> No.32538786

I love your BT man, I'm planning on starting a force of my own. Any tips for painting black and the color for tabards?

>> No.32538837


His black is just black with a highlight. You can either do that or pick the darkest grey you can find and give it multiple washes of black like nuln oil or some other brand.

>> No.32538854

VMC Black Grey is the bee's knees as a base colour for black.

You shouldn't use full black/white as base colours.

>> No.32538923

So would I just apply this as a base and then wash it a few times with nuln oil and highlight with a dark grey?

>> No.32538943


I think you might be able to use that color as your black with no wash or a single wash if you're going for the "reallyl really really dark grey" method, which I find to be overrated unless you are a painting god planning to do blends and stuff on the black.

>> No.32539019

Is he dancing on a power axe? I like these sort of one-off in-joke type deals

>> No.32539057

Hightlight first as the wash will help the highlights seem more subtle afterward.

>> No.32539089

Alright then thank you, any tips for tabards and or painting bronze?

>> No.32539172

>the ol' missile launcher steadying arm shielding face from plasma rifle marine

>> No.32539215

It's like how a rockabilly double bass player might actually balance and stand on the double bass itself while jamming.

>> No.32539258

i posted this in the last thread and couldn't really wait to see what people said for to long so i'm repostin. I mainly wanna know how i did for a first time base.

I'm almost done with it at this point. Need to do the decals and then final touches with a fine tooth comb.

>> No.32539283

>that barge carapace

Haha, awesome

>> No.32539306

>not ark

>> No.32539307

back side for a different view

>> No.32539318


All your croissants look the same you metal dildogobbler

>> No.32539344

say that to my visual interface not behind your inferior monitor, fleshbag, and experience my reaction

>> No.32539475

>wave serpent spam


Looks good though

>> No.32539549

could i see it against a non-blue background? like white or a neutral khaki?

>> No.32539639


Look at the fluctuations on this one's provocation receptor modules! I am willing to wager that he is a malfunctioning unit that does not even leave the tomb complex!

>> No.32540554

>dat necron knight

hot damn and suddenly i want to paint up some necrons despite the boring grey metal it does look quite good when finished.

>> No.32540631


i wanted to go "classic" colors to it. my normal necrons are very bright and use a lot of egyptian colors, yellow,gold,blues,greens,reds. really makes a statement on the battle field. I also use them as a way so i know where everything is after a game for easy pick up. My eyes have been having problems for years so i need to use the bright colors to not over look them.

>> No.32540688

sorry to hear that, i got seeing glasses myself and i'll have bifocals within 20 years or so

>> No.32540749


meh shit happens. even if i go blind im still gonna paint i'll just grab random paints and just try the best i can to feel around. I'll have clown armies from then on out..... i might try this in the dark for the hell of it. Grab random paint and decide what part i want painted ahead of time. Could bring some really silly looks.

>> No.32540786

not a bad idea, just label the paints. there's been a few blind artists and mozart made music being deaf. blending would be a pain though.

>> No.32542713

I dont know what Im doing, but its working

>> No.32542723

>i forgot to pick up the proper colour shade

>> No.32542885

What's a good price on paint?

Just got some Army Painter and Vallejo for 2.50 avg per 1/2 ounce bottle. Army painter starter set, full set of ArmyPainter ink washes, and a couple misc vallejo colors I thought I'd need. 50$ on paint for 20 bottles total.

First time, haven't started, but my wallet is feeling empty at the moment. How many 28mm minis do these things last for anyway?

>> No.32542952


AP and Vallejo are about as good as it gets price wise for good paint. Cheaper paint is either gonna be the wrong kind or poor quality pigment in terms of density, how finely ground, etc.

You kind of went overboard though. For example you don't need the AP starter set and every wash, you just need the colors for your armies.

Really, when are you ever going to use a purple wash, for example? Unless you play a purple army.

>> No.32542980

>used to love painting minis.
>used to get told that with practice, I would be pretty good. not great, but good.
>forced to get a job to support crippled mother.
>get job as electrician's apprentice.
>one day go to move a wire I've been assured isn't live.
>was live.
>nerve damage all down right arm. shake constantly.
>can't even paint a wall without it being sloppy.

>> No.32543038


Just hire a commission painter. You'll also have the benefit of having an extremely beautifully painted army.

I might take my own advice and strip my army and get it commissioned, because I don't have any blends or highlights on them.

Also wasn't there some way you could wear like protective gloves and gear? Or was it like a super wire. I don't know anything about electricians.

>> No.32543041

I know they're budget brands, but I mean was 2.50 a bottle a bargain, or fair?

Not painting just one uniform army. RPG minis too, just as I need them in campaigns. On top of that, I keep buying single unit boxes of all sorts of wargames just because I like the minis.

Also, does anyone ever sell used paints? I've heard of and seen used armies, but not paints. After shelling out that kind of cash on paints I expected to see used paintsets floating around too. Acrylics never go bad, worst case you need to re-hydrate them.

I've got a minor tremor in my hands/arms. Advice from some dude with parkinsons who has it worse: Press your palms together. It actually works for me. I do it for soldering, hobby knife work, etc.

>> No.32543043


Fucking hell.

>> No.32543063


Most of the time people don't wear gear. They all know what they're doing, and are on the ball, so the only time you wear anything is when you know a wire is hot, and you have no choice. The guy who messed up was actually crying about it and saying he was sorry, because he knew that he had almost killed me.

And I didn't even play Warhammer, which is the stupid part. I literally just got that much joy and satisfaction out of making them, and painting them. I did want to play, though, I just have no funds to start even a small army, these days.

>> No.32543078


It might give that a shot. but it's not like small tremors. Imagine trying to paint something on a roller coaster, with a 55HP dildo up your ass.

>> No.32543079

> I did want to play
>I just have no funds to start even a small army, these days.
Most LGS players have more than one army if they're really into it. It's not hard or uncommon to borrow an army the same day you're there to play.

>> No.32543090

In hindsight, I probably should have said Horse Power. it is not in fact a very healthy dildo.

>> No.32543120

Just finished my new ravener!

>> No.32543130

I would be too scared of crushing or dropping them. my hand tends to randomly spasm.

>> No.32543132

All that dildo needed was a rogue, cleric, and caster to back it.

>I know they're budget brands, but I mean was 2.50 a bottle a bargain, or fair?
>Also, does anyone ever sell used paints? Acrylics never go bad, worst case you need to re-hydrate them.

Bumping questions. I needed to be asleep five minutes ago.

>> No.32543177


Badger Minitaire is the cheapest not shit wargame/model-minded acrylic paint on the market. It has the lowest cents to mL ratio and doesn't need to be thinned.

Anything with a lower cents to mL ratio than Citadel can be considered a cheap paint.

Army Painter, Vallejo, Privateer Press, Reaper, Coat d'Arms are all cheap. Tamiya is the only hobby brand more expensive.

>> No.32543311

My first ever attempt at using green stuff.
Shit is annoying as fuck to work with. I have no idea how some people manage to create so detailed things with it.

This guy is one of my 4 trueborn dark lance dudes. The others lack this sort of cloak, though I am kind of tempted to make such thing for them too.
I intend to make 2 true born squads of 3, both with 2 dark lances and one standard fellow with just splinter riffle.
Ideally, I would wield them all in the same squad, but rules do not allow that.

>> No.32543446

Great job man that looks sick. As for working with green stuff, after you stuck the blob on your model dip your tools in water. That way it doesnt stick to them and you can shape with more control.

>> No.32543587


Alright, thanks for the advice.

>> No.32544166


Get someone to move the models for you. This sounds kindw weirdmbut even watching others paint relaxes me.

>> No.32544280


It's not that easy, sadly. I can't really explain it without going into really exact details.

Imagine you are holding your arm straight out in front of you, as still as you can. you are literally tensing every muscle you have in an attempt to do this. Your fingers will likely shake a little, and your arm. It might go a few MM in one direction or another.

Mine will shake random between 3-4 inches in all directions. People tend to assume I have epilepsy. I can't hold a cup of coffee properly.

Typing isn't hard, though, as long as I don't mind a horrible amount of typos.

>> No.32544433

Worked on some more Scars, over halfway through the command squad. Just 10 more bikes and my Thunderfire bike and I am up to 1250 points.

>> No.32544617

What about using a vice? I know its not ideal, but then you could take your time with it.

>> No.32544632

Looks great, anon. Would happily run in fear of/10

>> No.32545065

Standard Bearer is coming along...

>> No.32545109

He looks depressed.

>why I gotta carry this thing

>> No.32545245


>> No.32545263

>it is too hot, I feel sweaty
>glisten with pride, brother

>> No.32545397

Working on hovering razor/rhino wreck for my ghost grey knights

>> No.32545419

Also shoots ghost bullets because the guns have no barrels.

>> No.32545445

And I noticed that 20 possessed marines would be fun with invincibility, so it's time to re-paint my old possessed marines.

>> No.32545479

Yes most of my ghosts guns don't have material form at all. So ghost bullet are absolute.
I'm gonna do drilling later same time as I do for my newest models. it's so boring that I try to avoid it to the last minute.

>> No.32545537


>> No.32545608

looks promising. like the grass tufts.

>> No.32545648

What's the best way to protect painted models from getting their paint chipped etc?
I have heard some horror stories regarding the varnishes.

>> No.32545667

Do your research, buy a decent varnish, and read about how to apply it properly.

Sure you'll hit the occasional fuck-up, but that happens with anything. and it's better 1 model in a hundred needing stripping than all 100 losing paint due to chipping.

>> No.32545719

If varnish does something weird, the best solution most of the time is actually to just spray more (better) varnish on.

Like the most typical problem of "frosting" is actually solved by properly spraying varnish because it will dissolve the other stuff when you apply it.

>> No.32545779

Wait. Are you supposed to paint them BEFORE gluing?

>> No.32545794

You don't have to, but its often easier for models that cross weapons across them selves.

>> No.32545800

You can if there are parts that are hard to reach. Its just another way to do it.

>> No.32545804

Oh well. My whole mob is black and glued. This is going to be a bitch then.

>> No.32545843

I wouldnt worry, big mobs or dark/dirty models like Orks usually hide details well. It's usually a good idea to paint every part of the model that you can though.

>> No.32545983

Anyone got cool ideas for force/power weapons?

>> No.32545994

"98% Pure"

>> No.32545998

please post picture of the dino rider in the background

>> No.32546021

Finished assembling my third hooded bullgryn. Using the ogryn shoulderpad bit and some plasticard to make the hoods, and I like how they look with the facemask. Making six of these guys, the arms are magnetized.

>> No.32546056

Awesome, looks a bit like STALKER Ogryns or something.

>> No.32546081

Does anyone happen to have saved the picture of someone doing a greenstuff head for Bela'kor to make him look like a daemonette? Saw it here ages ago and yesterday I picked up a few LotR models at 50% off I wanna do some conversion work on, epecially Gulavhar, that body is ace but the head.. URgh...

>> No.32546219

Yeah the kit comes with a bunch of extra bits, and I was planning on just using the shoulderpads as, well, shoulderpads. Then I stuck one on it's head and just went "... This could work." Just need to use some plasticard to fill the back of the hood. Overall a quick and easy conversion.

>> No.32546275

The funny thing is, I spent ages searching for alternative models, mainly dudes in exoskeletons and stuff like that, who would look good as Ogryn count as.
Then GW brings out Ogryns with gasmasks and I'm kinda tempted to say they don't look horrible enough anymore to make me buy something else.
But somehow they are in the uncanny valley of miniatures for me.
The kinda look ugly, but they are supposed to.

Either way, I think the idea is pretty good. They kind of look a bit like termies now.

>> No.32546363

I'm working on some Chaos Hounds I'm painting up as Flesh Hounds of Khorne. Lovely models. So much nicer than the actual ancient Flesh Hound models.

>> No.32546370

And another shot.

They're surprisingly easy to paint. Not sure with which color to highlight the black though. Grey or something?

>> No.32546674

>So much nicer than the actual ancient Flesh Hound models.
I disagree. The dragon dog Flesh Hounds are awesome. Chaos Warhounds are much better value for money though.

>> No.32546687

only utter plebs do that for anything other than say, a weapon across the chest or something like that. Painting everything like that confirms utter plebness and low life status

>> No.32546732

Damn, I was wanting Bullgryns to begin with and this just make me want them even more.

>> No.32546903

Time to start his bike...

>> No.32546927

That angle make it look like he is doing some kind of limp wristed, 'Oh, you!' move.

>> No.32547122

ork warbikers, what do you guys think? They still need some touching up I think

>> No.32547164

I'd say add another brighter red to the red that's there before you get to inking it.

>> No.32547266

For most red I use khorne red then highlight with mephiston but I didn't with these. I just did mephiston red, don't know why now

>> No.32547315

I like the shield.

It's a little bit to red for my tastes (inb4 unorky), throw in another contrasting colour, or more metal gubbins.

>> No.32547330

Nice. Any more pics?

Also I think maybe a brigher red/hint of orange to help the red stand out

>> No.32547389

What do you mean by that? Shade?

>> No.32547413

Thanks, I got these in a trade and there was just painted and cut up sprue on the front, so I glued a chaos marauder shield to it.

Here's one of the nob (Red on the front looks thick in this one), still needs some work, and yeah I agree about the brighter red, I'll probably pick up one soon and highlight some of my other models

>> No.32547515

Nice job man. Even just a lighter shade like blood red or whatever its called now.

>> No.32547956

finished my first wave serpent
only have to put lucid on gems

>> No.32548206

Meinufactorum finished

>> No.32548261

Not a fan of the blue, personally. I'd drybrush over the thing with copper, letting the oxidation stick in the edges/crevasses.

>> No.32548263

Im about to painy this guy but im still not sure on how to paint the more fleshy bits. Any pointers?

>> No.32548276

Also this is also gonna be my first try at freehanding. So il be right back just gonna prime him

>> No.32548328

What are you planning on doing with him? Standard DKOK color, just warped a little?

>> No.32548352

As I was - looked at the gas mask and assumed, then I saw the backpack. Looks...nurgle-y. Am I correct?

>> No.32548367

Shit forgot the pic

>> No.32548375

It looks set, but I would have pressed a guardsman/SM face in the back of the putty and painted it like bloody flesh.

>> No.32548378


Dark flesh color mixed with dark grey as base

Wash brown

Pick out the raised areas with a mix of pale flesh with light grey. After that maybe add some nurgle rot or discolored spots to the flesh

>> No.32548389

Well yea. Its an olld metal pleague marine but wìth some slight conversons

>> No.32548404


>> No.32548416

Don't have a brown wash. So could I just use very waterd down brown?

>> No.32548476

2:1 water/paint, maybe a little black to deepen it

>> No.32548484

why do those black things on the wings not match? its throwing my OCD for a loop.

>> No.32548492


A thinned black wash or paint would work too

>> No.32548521

Forgot to mention this. But inwas thinking of having a bloated rotting flesh look. So maybe some drybrushing?

>> No.32548575


Then instead of flesh, use a light green and a dark green for the mixes

>> No.32548602


>> No.32548604

oh well I didn't build it, bought 2 of these two days ago for 15 euros each

>> No.32548755

nice to see one of these that isn't dull metallic grey +red for once. gives some nice contrast to the board colour.

>> No.32549256

You Scandinavian?

>> No.32549286

Warmachine isn't THAT bad, everybody! Please give me tips ;_;

>> No.32549303


Honestly? Thin your paints, your transitions are bad.

>> No.32549315

Stop spreading your lies.

>> No.32549373

my first model, don't have all the paints yet, generic dark angels tactical marine. any criticisms/tips welcome

>> No.32549374

... OH he's supposed to be mounted. Thank the Emperor.

>> No.32549413

A glaze will make the transitions less visible. But yeah, generally paint thinner and with more stages of red when doing that kind of transition on large areas.

>> No.32549434


Take sharper pictures. If on a phone, tap where you want it to focus. If on a camera, half-press the shutter button while focussing on the model. If those 2 don't work, there isn't enough light to create a fast shutter time.

Other than that, don't forget about the skull, the highlights and the knee squad marker.

>> No.32549453

dude, the photo quality is so lacking I cannot tell to what quality the painting is. Also, backlight makes most of the front details even darker and harder to see. I can tell the body is green, the gun is red, and the chest aquila is white.

It looks as if there's a bit of edge highlighting on the pauldron, can't tell because of the picture

Looks decent. Needs a lot of cleaning up on the red highlights . Some red spilt onto his hand. Needs clean up. Seems tedious but does so much

>> No.32549497

>You only need 3 PSI for most airbrushing
you have absolutely no idea how to do airbrushing. please dont give advice on something you dont understand

>> No.32549508

Got my dark vengeance box today... geez, wonderful detailed models, but christ, convewrting the DA to CSM will be a pain in the arse.
I feel like I will need a lot of toothpicks to... spike things up.

>> No.32549546


Why in the world would you buy a new DV set now instead of just the kits you want. I hope you at least got a good discount.

>> No.32549573

thinner paints, photograph from further away, something needs to break up those large flat panels a bit more, even if it's just an identification icon or similar on a small part.

>> No.32549584

>I hope you at least got a good discount.
So yes. I just liked the models, except for the cybot or what it is.

>> No.32549599

I finally painted her, holy hell it took me so long

>> No.32549614


>> No.32549635

here's a better picture.

>> No.32549644

Thanks! I stupidly built the thing before hand, and had to rip off all the arms to paint them. Why do tyranids have to have so many arms.

>> No.32549662

>File: IMG_6850.jpg (41 KB, 1226x689)
I've seen worse. Thin your paints, etc etc. but pretty good. I

>> No.32549677


You got a german copy? It's a dreadnought. Err sorry, they're "hellbrutes" now

>> No.32549696


Eeeeeeeh, did you use pure white instead of really light grey for the shoulder and zhandri dust/bone for the purity seal and chest wings?

Also you painted red over he ridge of the gun.

Here are my first 5 models I ever painted for comparison, maybe it helps. Notice how mine lack in highlights/washes on various places because I simply didn't have the dexterity in my fingers yet to not fuck it up so I just left it like that.

>> No.32549710

reduce the viscosity of your liquid colors

>> No.32549733


Ah gad, the more I look at them the more I notice the mistakes I made. I have 50 more of them but still, it annoys me.

>> No.32549753

yeah, i know about the ridge of the gun, but i don't have leadbelcher quite yet, however i'm buying it tomorrow, as well as the rest of the colors i need. i'll keep the light grey for the crest on mind. also, if you could give me any tips for highlighting, that would be great.

>> No.32549760

only tip i can offer is tidy it up. Missed with gets recovered by green. Fill out the eyes with more red, reapply white on the wing that's not covered entirely. Take green again and apply it on any new misses you might have caused. Rince and repeat. Then you can, before you even dream of doing highlight start with thinking on detail work, like boning up the skull, little spots where to put a little metal details and the like, like say, the face vent, behind the knees and soon. And again tidy up any misses you cause applying those details

>> No.32549788

Just go back tidy it up. It's what I do.

>> No.32549793


Actually, if you scroll up or ctrl+f highlight you'll find multiple posts detailing the process and even a GW video that shows how to. Though in the video they use EXCESSIVE amounts of paint just wipe it off on a palette for no functional reason.

>> No.32549872


They're tabletop ready and have 5 coats of varnish on them so I'm just going to live with it. The next batch will look very different.

Here's the captain I'm working on, just got some browns on him. Was planning to do the feathers initially but I had shaky hands so I skipped on it for now.

>> No.32549916


I still have some touching up to do but so far I love working on him and all his fiddly bits

I want to do lighting on the sword but I just don't think I can get my brush between him and the blade properly

>> No.32550014


Thread's slow and about to die anyway:

Check out these bits! Got them for free with a case I bought cheap from someone. It also came with a bunch of death company assault marines and 11 sniper scouts as well as an armless necron Nightbringer

I swear this guy was just building everything he could find. I'm pretty sure there are some warmahordes pieces in there too.

>> No.32550061

Wow, nice find!
I can see what you mean.

>> No.32550940

A lot of work, very little progress. Working on a Dark Angels army, lots of terminators and bikes.

>> No.32551076

sizeable chunk of footary thar. Any armor to go with it?

>> No.32551393

Actually my paints are just shit quality and thinning them even a little bit only gives me watery hell. White paint is like milk.

>> No.32551583

Only a predator annihilator and 2 rhinos painted at the moment, but they didn't make it into the photo. I have a few dreadnoughts and 2 land raiders (one I am converting up as a land raider ares) but they need a lot of work and assembly.

Close up of one of my land speeders, still have another to paint

>> No.32551720

... Tell me you didn't build it that way.

>> No.32551877

Remember that Black-White are jokers, complementing and contrasting.
Saturation and brightness also allows for some contrast compliment work.

But the theory is solid, Main colour, something to reinforce and something to contrast.

Also going full 80's with Red,Yellow and Blue is reserved for absolute beginners, and hardcore painters.

>> No.32551996

To look good, your question is retarded

>> No.32552108

Loads of 2 and 3+

>> No.32552135

I did
it was already primed in blue
what's the matter?

>> No.32552268

>Those welds not flushing perfectly

Reminds me when I've given up on Marines and returned to playing Orks so many times.

Whenever I glue a vehicle I agonize and file and level for an eternity before realizing I made it worse than before.


>> No.32552297

guess I'll have to mount them back

>> No.32552331

Like I said, I play orks, because I can excuse any imperfection, or marks from repeated breaking and moving of parts.

>> No.32552373

Also whats with the weapons? Waveserpent has Twinlinked turret weapons, not mishmash of different kinds.

>> No.32553055

I just got a group of cadians to start my new guard army and i want to make them the Mobile Infantry from Starship Troopers. How should i go about this and what colors would be best to use?

>> No.32553083

Idk what you would use for the fatigues but the armor should be dawnstone.

>> No.32553106


Grey uni with greenblue and grey body armor

>> No.32553141

I use citadel paints so what would that be?

>> No.32553173


I dunno, I usually mix my own.

>> No.32553239

Luckily everything else has lined up, just land speeders that are naff, the model needs a new kit. Next time I do some green-stuffing (a very rare occurrence) I might patch the hole.

>> No.32553338

>I use citadel paints so I am obviously colourblind
Pick a paint that looks the right colour m8. How do you think the rest of us do it?

>> No.32553513

I know i know. I'm just afraid to mess it up.

>> No.32553546

Paint on paper first to see how it looks? I hear there's computer programs for designing GW colour schemes though I dunno what it is or where to get it.

>> No.32553887

Another quick and dirty paint job.. fuck painting skin.

>> No.32554023


With a nice glaze you'd be able to smooth the areas between colors almost effortlessly

>> No.32554075

Use the top highlight colour or the one before the top highlight?

>> No.32554120


A very very thinned down mix between the two should do the trick. Don't want to risk mucking it up after all!

>> No.32554136

Will give it a go, thanks for the advice.

>> No.32554710

not perfect but blended much better now.

>> No.32554856


That's a huge improvement, it looks great!

Up close you can still vaguely see the different colors but on the TT this will look a million times better than it did before

>> No.32556594

>Your 8 year old gives a shot at painting

>> No.32556704

That's pretty cool man. Did they have fun?

>> No.32556752

She technically has an army for herself, the high-elf part of my wife's skaven. Before i set her loose, shes practicing on my scrapped dwarves

>> No.32556792

Your family will grow into strong warrior clan.

>> No.32556831

She threatened me that if i paint her elves, she was going to paint all my skeleton's heads red.

>> No.32556869

>crying about it and saying he was sorry, because he knew that he had almost killed me.

Crying sure helped the fact that he basically crippled you for life by being a blundering retard, I would have sued him for everything he had

>> No.32556917

Maybe use eshin grey?

>> No.32556933

I'm not seeing a problem

>> No.32556999

Hopefully her mother will have her learned up here within a week

>> No.32557050

If she becomes a better painter than me by the end of the week, I'm going to personally do nothing to you.

>> No.32557264

Im going to let her mother ease her into it. I was taught by my dad and hes a harsh task master when it came to it.

>Tfw he made you believe there was only one kind of brush before he showed you fine point and dry brushes

It was suffering, but i got good fast

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