Art Supply Thread?

[Anonymous No.3823958]

Art supply thread bois?

[Anonymous No.3823960]

Anybody have any recommendations for a good brand of charcoal pencils? I'm also looking to buy charcoal sticks.

I have the conte pierre 6b but they keep breaking on me when I sharpen.

[Anonymous No.3824032]

>>3823960
Just expose them up to an inch and a half and sharpen them by wearing it down from use. Also it helps to use a harder grade like 2b or b.

[Anonymous No.3824069]

I got one of these Escoda Prado Watercolor brushes.

Synthetic, but very nice. I think I'll get some more.

[Anonymous No.3824071]

>>3824069

Dammit forgot photo.

[Anonymous No.3824076]

Should I get a spencerian modded metal falcon? I can't really decide between the stock extra nib or the modded one.

[Anonymous No.3824077]

these are pretty good

[Anonymous No.3824282]

>>3824032
Why a harder grade vs like a 6b?

[Anonymous No.3824283]

>tfw blew hundreds on fancy art supplies I don’t need
Anyone else on the same boat ?

[Anonymous No.3824302]

>>3824283
Yes, I bought a few Conte 1710's but now I do the Dynamic Sketching program and don't need them

[Anonymous No.3824330]

Man what kind of people use knurled grips? Files my fingers.

[Anonymous No.3824344]

>>3824282
A harder grade has more binder on it, so it won't break as easily

[Anonymous No.3824416]

>>3824283

I blew a few hundred to follow the watts program. I dropped it but I liked the sort of training schedule it provided me with. It essentially holds your hand what to draw everyday. I want to pick it up again but it's hard to know if you're doing it right or wrong without someone correcting you--and I don't have $300 a month to blow for their critique.

[Anonymous No.3824496]

>>3824283
At least I have a full plein aire watercolor kit and some really nice pencils. I had cheap shit and it's hard to believe but good tools made a huge difference in my improvement even though I don't use most of it very much. A little craft and discipline goes a long way, makes you respect the tools and think more about what you're doing. And art is by far the cheapest hobby ever, I've spent less than I would on a decent guitar. Or a single camera lens.

Related, I'm wary of people who say supplies don't matter. Their guitars are always set up wrong and play like shit.

[Anonymous No.3824543]

>>3823960
blending stump
carbothello pastel pencil white or ivory
prismacolor nupastel white or ivory
soft compressed charcoal alphacolor
cretacolor chunky charcoal
prismacolor
pitt charcoal pencil soft
manual pencil sharpener
kneaded eraser
pen or stick eraser

[Anonymous No.3824570]

>>3824330
My drafting pencils have knurls and I like them. I have tough skin, though.

[Anonymous No.3824581]

>>3824283
Same. But I don't complain, I've got a Molotow brush pen, and just drawing lines with it feels like buttfucking an angel.

[Anonymous No.3824625]

Any pencils for sketching that are your favorites?

>>3824283
I got a ton of inking supplies but since im concentrating on learning to draw instead of rendering, im using them all up for observational drawing on the side.

[Anonymous No.3824626]

>>3824283
I'm the opposite. I can't decide if I should get gouache, watercolor or acrylics

[Anonymous No.3824895]

>>3824330
Knurled grips are awesome and comfortable. I love them on my Staedtler lead holders and my Graphgear 500.

>>3824416
What do you mean about what to draw everyday? Is it just what the video assignment tracks are or there was more supplemental work?

>>3824496
Very similar experiences, going from Cotman watercolors and Canson XL to D. Smith and Arches was mindblowing. And it's still more economical than one of my 4 guitars being an LP Standard.

With art supplies at least I know I have them and can use them at any time. Good supplies are an incentive to use more for me, I don't have to wait and procrastinate until I order them, and I've gotten better from the pleasure of using them more than suffering through student grade supplies.

[Anonymous No.3824908]

>>3824626
I'd say spend money on good supplies. I'm not a huge fan of acrylic but they're cheap enough to buy and try just like the other two.

For gouache get some artists or designers gouache with the primary colors. There's a Holbein set and Winsor & Newton that are great starters. Watercolor kits are a bit tougher to recommend. I wouldn't recommend any student grade set or less than 100% paper at the start. If you can get a primaries set that'd be good like either of these that'd be ideal.
https://www.amazon.com/DANIEL-SMITH-285610005-Essentials-Introductory/dp/B00WT5VRF6/
https://www.amazon.com/DANIEL-SMITH-Extra-Primary-Watercolor/dp/B013TBUGVO/

White gouache is always great to have more of for gouache or watercolor work.

[Anonymous No.3824976]

>Have all these materials that you only used a couple of times and have no interest in using again
>Feel long term buyers remorse that won't leave because these materials may last a whole life.
Charcoal and colored pencils in my case.
Charcoal has limited uses and needs an adhesive after it's done, feel like too much
Colored pencils are a very slow and tedious medium plus I have school grade pencils that looks like puke when not used properly.

[Anonymous No.3825009]

>>3824976
That's why it's better sometimes to just have a handful of supplies rather than, say, a whole collection of different-colored pencils. Limiting yourself to certain tools/colors might force you to think more about what you're drawing and not how the tool works. I don't know if any of this applies to your case, but I feel like this is a good way to keep yourself drawing more in general. Less things to carry around with you and easier to pick up whenever you get an urge to make art.

[Anonymous No.3825025]

>>3824077
what on earth

[Anonymous No.3825079]

>>3824976
Why did you buy the colored pencils? For me that's the main issue, I don't like the result and they take way too long. I only have a handful I use for playing around with shadow/color design on characters. Charcoal is still great to loosen up with. I have a big roll of newsprint-like packing paper I use for figure drawing and experimenting. I'm not worried about saving them and if I am I take pictures.

[Anonymous No.3825092]

>>3825079
After buying school grade acrylics and ending up like a fiasco without knowing the issue were the acrylics and not me I decided to look into other media, I spend a good time with colored pencils and water colors until I got to a point were i felt I had a good domain of the medium.
So for a while I was more focused on gitting gud with different media than actually putting good products out and only recently I've been focusing on making good finished pieces over studies.

[Anonymous No.3825128]

>>3824895
I forgot how much more enjoyable they are I've used them so long. You're right about not procrastinating as much, I still do but not like when the only options were pencil sketches and dick else.

[Anonymous No.3825168]

>>3824283
I have 400$+ in art supplies I never used stashed in my drawer

[Anonymous No.3825173]

>>3824077
>Wasting money for a gaymer mechanical keyboard instead a cheap tablet

Bruh

[Anonymous No.3825207]

>>3824895
>What do you mean about what to draw everyday? Is it just what the video assignment tracks are or there was more supplemental work?

It was the suggested schedule. A lot of students came up with some great schedules that I could adopt. It was good for me
>wake up at 2am
>wash face, drink some coffee
>start at 2:30am with some 10-15 warm up
>15 minutes segmented into 30 minutes do X from handouts
>another 30 minutes asaro head....30 minutes attempt some compound forms, etc

It was logical and gave purpose. Pic related is something I saved from here (it isn't exactly the excel sheets I was following because I need to look for it due to swapping out drivers..etc.) but mapping out your schedule like this is high IQ.

[Anonymous No.3825236]

>>3824302
Where did you find them?

[Anonymous No.3825238]

Help me pick one. I don't even draw that much it's just a gift for a friend.
Chameleon CT2201 (22 markers),Copic sketch (basic set 12 markers).
I'm also open for recomendations.

[Anonymous No.3825239]

>>3824283
I bought a lot and i can´t stop, send help

[Anonymous No.3825254]

>>3823958
>only ever used pencils and pen and ink to draw
>want to buy gouache to try it
>overwhelming feeling ill suck at them and quit and feel bad about wasting $70
>buy nothing
I even feel bad about wasting decent quality paper on bad drawings. How the fuck do artists feel ok using even more expensive canvas and paints all the time

[Anonymous No.3825265]

>>3825238
Chameleon seems too gimicky to me. By the time they need to buy refills or whatever I'd be surprised if it was still around. But maybe that's the kind of thing that's more enjoyable as a gift rather than something you buy yourself. I'm sure they'll love either one!

[Anonymous No.3825273]

>>3825207
Ah I see. My only experience with Watts is downloading the videos and handouts. I've done some of it but I know that I won't get much out of most of it for my goals. I do wish there were more guided schedules like Watts, art doesn't have to be so nebulous. The Watts courses are laid out in a nice path for gradual improvement but not everyone wants to end up doing oil portraits from observation.

I think something like that spreadsheet isn't good. Too many new artists think mindless grinding without a goal makes you better. Raw numbers don't translate to any quantitative or qualitative progress you make. I will think about it during some time this week about a training regimen for 4-8 week long periods. Get in a few finished pieces then evaluate what I need to improve on.

>>3825238
The Copics by far.

>>3825254
You shouldn't have to spend that much money. Some cardboard, cheap synthetic watercolor brushes, and some primary colors gouache should be under $70. Even if you suck, you can get better or give them to someone else. Traditional is a lot easier than digital as well and the skills you gain there transfer very well back.

Unless you desperately need that $70 there's not much to lose. Do what you want to do. Would you rather you always wonder "what if?" It's an investment in experience for something you may like or something you find out isn't for you. So you can close that gap in your knowledge and possibly pass on to others.

[Anonymous No.3825278]

>>3824908
Thanks for the advice!

[Anonymous No.3825288]

Boom baby

[Anonymous No.3825582]

>>3825265
>>3825273
Thank you. What are your thoughts on Molotow Aua Ink Softliners and Winsor and Newton Watercolour markers. Each set contains 12 markers.
Should I stick to copics?

[Anonymous No.3825588]

>>3825582
Copics are alcohol based markers

[Anonymous No.3825591]

>>3825582
Forgot pic.Gimme ideas of what kind of gift would you like to recive on a budget of $80

[Anonymous No.3825597]

>>3825591
I wouldn't give art supplies as a gift unless it's something you knew they used, wanted, or you made it for them yourself. $80 can get some good supplies but again it's really up to the person.

[Anonymous No.3825600]

>>3825591
A voucher.

[Anonymous No.3825829]

>>3824330
Not all people have Epidermolysis bullosa, you know.

[Anonymous No.3825847]

>
>>3825236
local art shop

[Anonymous No.3826222]

Anyone know exactly what paints Ricardo Federico uses?
I believe it’s some kind of acrylic, I’m all about this kind of detail work and I’m sick of the drying time for layering oils.

[Anonymous No.3826225]

>>3826222
probably gouache

[Anonymous No.3826248]

>>3826225
This is the best I’ve found but I can’t make out the brand or anything.

[Anonymous No.3826270]

>>3826222
>>3826225
>>3826248

[Anonymous No.3826274]

>>3826248
oh, these are acrilics, Acrilic Master from Ferrario
you're still better off with gouaches

[Anonymous No.3826625]

Is there any advantages to buy heavy mechanical pencils instead of light ones? Which is your favorite mechanical pencil to use 2.0mm leads and .5mm. I like how rotrings look but i kinda feel more comfortable using graphgears 500

[Anonymous No.3826672]

Whats a good art supply ifyou wanna learn color theory and coloring, i was thinking color pencils, but i may be very wrong since im a complete beg

[Anonymous No.3826683]

>>3826672
gouache, any of these
>split primary (warm/cool rby)
>red, blue, yellow
>cyan, magenta, yellow
plus white and black for all

[Anonymous No.3826685]

>>3826672
A tablet would be best. Otherwise, color pencils are good, but not cheap ones. You can also try gouache (it's cheap), pastels (a nice medium overall, and will be an easy transition to digital) or markers.

[Anonymous No.3826796]

I don't know whether it would be better here or beg, but I was wondering, I am currently working with pencil and a little bit ink, I was wondering at what point should I start branching out into watercolors, oils, etc?

[Anonymous No.3826816]

>>3824976
Every trad artists gets a big ass set of prismacolors when theyre young and then never uses them for 20+ years.

[Anonymous No.3826899]

>>3826625
I can't justify the cost of a rotring and that graphgear is my favorite. The only advantage to a heavy pencil is that it's a little bit steadier for technical work and feels nicer when you're trying to go dark. That and cheap pencils usually have shitty clutches.

[Anonymous No.3826922]

>>3826683
Holbein has a set like that.

[Anonymous No.3826924]

>>3826685
The only thing you said that's true is gouache. Tablets are really great for actually coloring but color theory is so heavily tied to mixing it isn't funny.

[Anonymous No.3826964]

Anyone have any desk recommendations?

[Anonymous No.3827064]

>>3824077
What the hell am I looking at?

[Anonymous No.3827179]

What are some good tools to learn color with?
Prismacolors markers, watercolour, or copics

[Anonymous No.3827247]

Any tips on finding a good scanner? All I have is a printer scanner from twenty years ago.

[Anonymous No.3827287]

>>3827247
LiDe are good scanners, and relatively cheap, and more than enough for simple tasks.

And, define "good" - what do you want to scan, and for what? Scanning slides is a completely different criteria than doing light duty, like scanning sketches.

[Anonymous No.3827288]

>>3827179
Any of them. Color is independent of medium. You could learn color theory on a monitor, to a point.

[Anonymous No.3827290]

>>3827287
scanning paper for animation

[Anonymous No.3827312]

>>3827064
A mouse in the hands of amateur Frankenstein.

[Anonymous No.3827313]

>>3827288
How do I learn color theory

[Anonymous No.3827368]

>>3827313
Google it, or look in the book threads. It's a pretty widely covered topic. I don't know of one source that's best, I learned it over years of practice, experimentation, and classes in college.

Start with the color wheel. That's where everyone else does.

[Anonymous No.3827382]

>>3825591
I'd give them a gift card to Blick's, to be honest. The only person who ever gave me art supplies that i could actually use was my mom, because she was an artist too, and knew what i used/liked.

[Anonymous No.3827426]

>>3826924
Mixing paints is not a part of color theory per se, it's a characteristic of the medium. If you want to paint digitally you don't need to know how to mix oil paints. You will still learn about color mixing, you can emulate subtractive color mixing if you want, you can emulate watercolor mixing, though I can't imagine why would you want to. Also, what's wrong with color pencils and pastels?

[Anonymous No.3827438]

>>3826922
That's why I recommended it but it seemed like they took down the 15mL set for $23 that was a decent deal. It's only 5mL for $16

[Anonymous No.3827439]

>>3827313
David Hornung's Color. Use gouache irl or on a computer use CMYK color picker. The last chapter talks about it.

[Anonymous No.3827442]

>>3827439
wouldn't using a color picker be against the point of the study?

[Anonymous No.3827535]

>>3827442
CMYK sliders

[Anonymous No.3827574]

>>3823958
I finally have some money so I'm ordering an ink compass head (I have to ink a lot of circles) and a fine line ruling pen from Haff.
I already own one larger ruling pen by them and it's a thing of beauty, it's perfectly machined and sharp. Can't wait.

[Anonymous No.3827606]

>>3827287
>>3827247
I have a CanoScan Lide 220 and it picks up watercolor very nicely.

[Anonymous No.3827615]

>>3825254
>I even feel bad about wasting decent quality paper on bad drawings. How the fuck do artists feel ok using even more expensive canvas and paints all the time
I use shitty newsprint I buy in huge rolls from a press to sketch. When there's something I like I scan it and make a good digital drawing off of it. I print it then I trace it on watercolor paper on a lightbox. Basically I only waste paper if I accidentally spill ink on it.

[Anonymous No.3828466]

>>3827615
Huh

[Anonymous No.3828719]

>>3827426
Emulation is terrible unless you're using Corel, which no one is. I'm not saying you can't paint digitally, only that most common color harmony is a result of physical pigment properties and it makes learning good practice easier starting out. It's easier to get good results when you know how everyone before 1890 got those results. Paint does you a favor and it is a big fucking favor. That's before you get to gamut and intentional palette limitations and what have you. In there is where the magic is. I find color theory pretty bullshit when it comes to making a pretty picture, but mixing paint crucial to developing an eye for harmony. Like what the fuck is the point of making a color wheel or chart if you aren't mixing from primaries? All the palette selectors are just pulling from natural mixing curves.

Colored pencils and such aren't blending mediums and are shit for actually mixing color or controlling value.

[Anonymous No.3829414]

>>3827179
Stick to paints. If you don't want to be big boy and learn oils, gouache is not expensive and cleans up with water.

Get red, blue, yellow, and a black and a white.

I don't really understand the resistance ITT--paint is easy. Markers, pastels, and pencils all require layering to "mix".

[Anonymous No.3829640]

>>3829414
What is some inexpensive material that I could draw on?

[Anonymous No.3829681]

>>3825238
Copics are a meme. Just buy touch 5 or other chinese knockoffs. Identical in every way except the newer copics with brush tips. Only fine and chisel tips. No refills either, but cheaper to just buy new again than the refills for copics. Look up reviews touch 5 or touch new or ohuha and shit. I keep my greys for copics but will never buy colors after using the knockiffs. Like third the cost.

[Anonymous No.3829820]

Anyone know a cheap paper I can practice gouache and watercolors on?
Newsprint has been a god send for pencils, just wondering if there's an equivalent

>>3827615
Newsprint takes gouache? wouldn't it crumple like hell with the water?

[Anonymous No.3829826]

This guy recommends the Conte 1710 b and b2 charcoals, but they don't sell them in my country. Any similar pencils I could try out instead?

[Anonymous No.3829828]

>>3829820
Nah for gouache you need something like 200gr/sqm+ paper assuming you use it relatively dry and not in washes. Just get student grade watercolor paper IMO. I can't tell you which since I only use Fabriano Artistico.

[Anonymous No.3829843]

>>3824416
dumb question, but you pay your Watts program fee every month, and as long as you pay you have access to the videos, right?
Is there anything stopping you from watching (and maybe downloading) all the videos in 1 or 2 months?

[Anonymous No.3829877]

>>3829826
Check out the Wolffs Carbon 4b or the Generals 4b with the 2b since they smudge more easily.

Pencils in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj5lf43zzFc

[Anonymous No.3829885]

>>3829640
cardboard boxes. it's (practically) free toned illustration board. mixed media paper is fine, i've used vellum bristol board too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pD0BVtZbmys

>>3829820
>Anyone know a cheap paper I can practice gouache and watercolors on?
there's really no good cheap paper for watercolor. you get best results from good paper, you get absolutely horrible results from non-100% paper until you know how to work around that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEC0-PRmw10&t=3m15s

[Anonymous No.3829910]

>>3829820
Spend a little money. Practicing on cheap paper, especially for watercolor, is kind of pointless, as your washes and such will be a completely different experience on linen-based paper than on wood based pulp papers.

For gouache, you have more options, but I would stick to things like bristol and such. Art paper is not that expensive. A pad of bristol can be $10-15USD, about the same for watercolor paper. Watch the sites like Jerry's for sales. Blick sells paper CHEAP at times.

[Anonymous No.3829921]

>>3829885
You have to be careful with cardboard. When I was in college, I got a stack of cardboard that should have been two year's supply of boards for painting, until I tried a couple, and the boards started disintegrating from adding water to them. Good cardboard is basically bristol. Bad cardboard is shitty wood pulp formed in sheets, with less pressure than writing/copier paper. You're not wrong, just be aware of the risks if it's random cardboard.

[Anonymous No.3829992]

>>3829820
>>3829820
https://www.amazon.com/Accent-Opaque-Cardstock-271gsm-Bright/dp/B06XMXQTRX

This is close to strathmore 300 Bristol and 1 pack of 200 sheets or so is less than a 20 page book of strathmores.

[Anonymous No.3830008]

>>3829843

It's free* on cgp unless you want the live critique classes.

[Anonymous No.3830015]

>>3823960
I use Generals. I think they have the best range from hard to extra soft. I use their blocks for large areas. Pic related is an 8x10 of Audrey Hepburn I did with Generals

[Anonymous No.3830018]

>>3829921
I use my amazon boxes and get by fine, but I know the type of cardboard you're talking about.

[Anonymous No.3830030]

>>3830008
kinda new here, what's cgp?

[Anonymous No.3830094]

got one of these for christmas. my god, I thought my Lamy pens were good
I haven't started using it much to ink my artwork, but I've got some drawings coming up that I'll try it out on. it works amazing for my penmanship practice, however

the only problem I really have is that it runs outta ink on me too soon

[Anonymous No.3830096]

anyone know where to get good toned gray paper in the UK? besides Amazon, all I can find is this Strathmore stuff
do the normal 4H to 6B pencils work on it?

also looking for good white charcoal pencils, or anything else that can add white highlights on gray paper

[Anonymous No.3830134]

>>3830096
Try https://www.dickblick.com/products/fabriano-toned-paper-pad/

[Anonymous No.3830138]

>>3830096
When I need white on toned paper I use either white Generals charcoal pencil or prismacolor pastel pencil white. If it's small but bright highlights I use white gouache paint.

[Anonymous No.3830141]

>>3830094
Try Winsor newton series 7 sable kolinsky brush 00, 000 and 2 with dr martin india ink for all your inking needs . Youll thank me later.

[Anonymous No.3830165]

>>3830138
>>3830134
appreciate it
also cute cat man, looks great

[Anonymous No.3830176]

>>3830141
Brush is not for pen inking and the queens watercolor brushes are a meme.

[Anonymous No.3830195]

>>3830165
Thank you. Dick Blick also makes their own line of pro-style art supplies and they're more affordable than the big brands. They're line of pastels and colored pencils are amazing for the price.

[Anonymous No.3830202]

>>3830195
Depending on the product, they're either low tier pro grade under a different name or total garbage. The brushes are alright but don't know about the rest. Some of the paints are nightmare fuel.

[Anonymous No.3830302]

>>3830202
Yep you gotta try them out and judge yourself. I've used the Blick pastels and the Blick pro colored pencils and have gotten great results. Especially the pastels. The pigments are great and the texture was nice and buttery. There's artists that do comparisons between the Blick stuff and the brand names on YouTube so that helps a little too.

[Anonymous No.3830503]

What's the ideal paper? I like the off-white/cream of Deleter paper. It's 135kg and very smooth

[Anonymous No.3830505]

Daler-Rowney also has a great paper made in France. I believe it's 100kg / 200gsm. Bright white surface.

[Anonymous No.3830508]

This is a very bright white paper being produced in France.

[Anonymous No.3830518]

>>3823958
looking for white pencil that doesn't build up a wax layer.

[Anonymous No.3830533]

>>3830518
Colored pencil or white charcoal? Also for tinted paper? Verithins use a harder, thinner lead and aren't as waxy as regular prismacolor pencils.

[Anonymous No.3830691]

Has anyone ever used these Derwent graphite blocks? I heard you can go very dark with them and I'm looking for ways to add true blacks to my graphite drawings.

[Anonymous No.3830728]

>>3830518
White conte for graphite drawing, Chinese white for colored pencils.

[Anonymous No.3830864]

>>3830518
there was a youtube comparison vid of white pencils. cba finding it for you.

[Anonymous No.3830867]

>>3830864
Love these comments

[Anonymous No.3830972]

>>3830008
can anybody tell me what cpg is? Where can I get the Watts atelier courses for free? Thanks

[Anonymous No.3831082]

>>3830176
If no 7 series, what brushes be good for inking?

[Anonymous No.3831343]

>>3831082
Cheaper ones, India ink rapes brushes. Maybe a synthetic squirrel or squirrel blend like the Princeton Neptune or Silver Black Velvet. They'll hold more ink than a cheap synthetic.

[Anonymous No.3831683]

>>3830533
ordered this
>>3830728
>>3830864
thanks

[Anonymous No.3831943]

any recs for a beginner set of guache or oils?

[Anonymous No.3834255]

>>3823958
Bermp

[Anonymous No.3834303]

>>3831943
i can only recommend gouche
>>3826683

https://www.amazon.com/M-Graham-2-Ounce-Gouache-Primary/dp/B0044TTG76/
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Designers-Gouache-Primary/dp/B001MQ0T7K/
or holbein/schminke. whatever you can afford and some synthetic watercolor type brushes like a 10-12 round or bigger and a 1/2" flat.

[Anonymous No.3834408]

>>3831683
Nice!

[Anonymous No.3834854]

Is gouache good for learning painting? I mean is it good for mixing colors and stuff?

[Anonymous No.3834857]

>>3834854
It’s an unforgiving medium. Do it if you want a challenge.

[Anonymous No.3834977]

>>3831943
W&N designer's gouache is good to start with, even though Schmincke is much better.

[Anonymous No.3834978]

>>3831943
>>3834977
Get base colors like a yellow ochre, cobalt blue, burnt sienna, cad red, cad lemon, maybe black and a huge tube of white, don't buy a regular tube of white, buy the big ones you're gonna use it a lot

any golden synthetic brushes will do fine

[Anonymous No.3835059]

I'm trying to sharpen my pencil the Proko way, but my local art supplies don't sell that little paper sander thingy. Can I replace that with regular sanding paper? With the lowest grit size available, or what size do you guys recommend?

[Anonymous No.3835070]

Does it matter what bristle brush you paint with?

[Anonymous No.3835126]

>>3835059
Yeah you can use regular sandpaper.

Sharpening your pencil to have a super long lead is kind of a meme though. Proko even says himself in his art supplies video that big strokes with the side of his pencil are often too grainy for his taste. You can get gradients that are just as smooth or smoother using the tip of your pencil if you're sufficiently patient. Just try different things and see what you like.

[Anonymous No.3835141]

>>3826816
Oh shit its not just me then. I never actually knew what I was meant to do with them so I pretty much gave up after sharpening a few.

[Anonymous No.3835198]

>>3835141
Just use them for monochrome quicksketch and gesture

[Anonymous No.3835386]

>>3835126
thanks. And does anybody know where to buy that sanding stone he also uses? Links on amazon or anything?

[Anonymous No.3835411]

>>3835386
Do you really not know what kind of stores sell sandpaper?

[Anonymous No.3835464]

>>3835411
not sandpaper, Proko uses a black sanding stone, that's what I'm asking about.

[Anonymous No.3837064]

>>3823958
Any suggestions on a pencil sharpener? My cheap ass mechanical one isn't consistent.

[Anonymous No.3837069]

>>3837064
a razor blade or one of these

[Anonymous No.3837114]

>>3835386
I haven't watched his videos, but I would bet he's using a knife sharpening stone, one that isn't impregnated with oil. I've never seen stones sold for pencil sharpening.

It's actually a pretty good idea, I might have to try it.

[Anonymous No.3837121]

>>3837069
thanks

[Anonymous No.3837244]

>>3834408
thanks anon

[Anonymous No.3837269]

>>3830141
Series 7 have poor quality control anymore, you may end up with an amazing brush or one that's worse than a nylon. It's just not worth the risk with how pricey they are.

The Raphael brushes work just fine have great spring and are more consistent in quality even if they don't seem to hold quite as much ink.

You have to still have good line control to use brushes though, I'm sick of people acting like a good brush will fix their shitty lines.

If you struggle making quick, confident lines with nibs and pencils and shit, a brush is only going to show your flaws more glaringly.

[Anonymous No.3837276]

>>3830508
>says it can handle dip pens
Good stuff. Eon is a new bristol brand that's being produced in the US. Always good to see new stuff come up. There's definitely a lack of good paper for pen and ink with quills. Some competition should be good for us. Strathmore is basically the biggest bristol supplier over here.

[Anonymous No.3837298]

I feel like my fineliners are running out of ink too quickly. could I use a fountain pen for Peter Han's dynamic sketching? any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.3837301]

>>3837298
It's not that they're running out of ink too quickly, it's that Peter Han's dynamic sketching take a ton of ink.

[Anonymous No.3837302]

>>3837276
Do you know any good papers for dicking around with brushes, brush pen, dip pen, and fountain pen ink? I've got some cheap 140gsm cartridge paper from amazon but it's not ideal. I don't feel like blowing through bristol either but I might have to.

I'm on my second of these books out of 3, it was only like $12 https://www.amazon.com/Black-Starter-Sketchbooks-140gsm-Cartridge/dp/B00M8BBWRE/

[Anonymous No.3837304]

>>3837298
Use sharpies or something cheaper.

[Anonymous No.3837312]

>>3825238
While the lack the brush tip, ohuhu markers are a good alternative to copics

[Anonymous No.3837426]

>>3837302
I use some thick cardstock from Springhill because it's cut to 11x13 and you get like 150 sheets for $20. It's good for dicking around and learning, like what I'm doing. I can mess around, make mistakes, cut sheets to smaller pieces, use the backs, the works. The biggest flaw is that, although smooth to the touch, the cardstock has loose fiber that comes off with non-vertical nib strokes sometimes. It also soaks up ink (doesn't bleed tho) so you have to wait for things like hatches to dry before crosshatching.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7m5PSt-xF0

Richard Friend, a pro inker I learn from, found that the back of poster board is a nice, cheap usable option for nibs and brushes. This is what I'm getting next and you should consider it too. This actually takes nibs and ink brushes very well without tearing. I've linked his video on it. Good luck, anon.

[Anonymous No.3837434]

>>3837426
I used to check in on his videos but haven't kept up. That's an awesome find.

[Anonymous No.3839999]

>>3837426
Bought some of that paper today on the way home and gotta say it's great for cheap ass paper. Only issue is of course not knowing how archival it is, but I'm scanning anything from it anyway.

[Anonymous No.3840536]

Looking to get back in traditional drawing. Anyone have any recommendations for good colored pencils that apply smooth? Have a stack of newsprint to get through and the thoughts of using grainy shit on it is giving me a headache. Pic related: the type of smoothness I'm talking about.

[Anonymous No.3840566]

JUST
DRAW

[Anonymous No.3840597]

>>3840566
Chill dude I draw all the time. Was just looking to get a specific finish is all.

[Anonymous No.3840605]

>>3839999
>Reply
At that price? Not gonna be archival. Look on the packaging for "acid free", which would be the first thing to look for. If it's not there...I would guarantee it's not archival. Second, if there's a recycling logo, that means they reused paper, which means bleach.

Stuff like that is made for school projects, it's not intended to be art paper. For learning? No-brainer. For finished pieces? Why take the chance?

I'd be interested to know who makes it for Staples, and what the pulp blend is. It could be good, decent paper isn't expensive to make, especially for retailers buying wholesale. There aren't that many paper mills left, so it's most likely one of the big ones.

Might have to pick up a pack for sketches and stuff. I have good bristol for anything I want to be around down the road.

[Anonymous No.3840634]

>>3824625
Mine are Faber-Castells for smooth harder pencils and Mitsubishi 10b for everything dark. Don't really need much else. Then, I have a Caran D'Ache woodless lead mine pencil.

[Anonymous No.3840643]

>>3830691
Never tried, they are so damn expensive. Just get Misubishi 10B's of amazon. A pack of them will last you a long time. They are the darkest pure graphite I've found, but the best way to get blacks, true blacks because graphite is naturally shinny is with ink, charcoal, or maybe staedler mars lumograph black. Allen Williams draws on clayboard with graphite coats it with finish, then paints black oil over it.

[Anonymous No.3840648]

>>3830195
Some of their stuff is even made by big names. I don't know if it's just the stuff that didn't make quality control or what.

[Anonymous No.3840653]

>>3830094
Is that a fountain pen. Namki Falcon?

[Anonymous No.3840657]

>>3831683
Really like this. I just bought some black paper to do white calligraphy on, but I'll have to try this ghostly atmospheric thing you've got going on.

[Anonymous No.3840808]

>>3840648
It's usually made specifically for Dick or Jerry's using factory seconds (for brushes) or formulated to take advantage of excess materials and less pigment and sell at a lower price point without brand name markup. Some of it is even the same product with a different label, the art market is tiny and a smaller profit is better than none at all. Oil and watercolor are ones to avoid because it's all about pigment load and lack of filler.

I'd compare most of it to a Mexican Fender where it's the same Mexicans using the same machinery to make the American one, but some of the hardware isn't as good. The paints tend to be like a Squier, where everything about it is as shitty as possible. Dry media tends to fare better.

[Endo No.3840820]

>>3823960
I got this one from a friend. I didn't even realize this was a thing! It's a fairly short diameter stick of charcoal wrapped in paper lined with a cotton string intended to "sharpen" the pencil by tearing off paper in a very controlled manner.

And it's fucking genious I love it

[Anonymous No.3840904]

Just realized that I accidentally bought a container of H and HB instead of 2B leads. How fucked am I for the next hours?

[Anonymous No.3841240]

>>3840820
Those have been around forever. :D Not mocking you, it's just kind of funny. Glad you found them, they're very convenient.

[Anonymous No.3842188]

>>3840657
thanks anon, I brush the dust around with my finger to get the glow.

[Anonymous No.3842706]

>>3842188
That's a real secret. It's a skill to push medium around without it looking like shit and most people are afraid of it. Watercolor benefits from it as well. Takes some practice though.

[Anonymous No.3842982]

Anyone here ever steal copic markers? I want them buy I don't think they're really worth their price.

[Anonymous No.3842988]

>>3842982
>stealing
Keep forgetting the diversity of people that use 4chan

[Anonymous No.3842991]

>>3842988
You didn't know that everyone here is a degenerate?

[Anonymous No.3843000]

>>3823958
Here's half of my shit, I use almost all of it besides pastels and pencils. I'm a student though so that's why I end up using most of it. All I do is art, that's it, I want to achieve greatness so I suffer and will continue to suffer in pursuit of my life's work.

[Anonymous No.3843018]

>>3843000

Digital:

Huion GT-191.
Ipad 2012.
AMD ryzen 16 cores.
Bamboo tablet.
Chinese Wacom tablet clone.

Traditional:

Gouache paints.
Regular shitty cheap paints.
Oil brush set, brand is princeton.
Acrylic brushes, I think they're the same brand?
Water color brushes.
Brush tub.
Pencils H and B.
Charcoal pencils, white conte and sticks.
All sorts of erasers.
Micron pens.
Colored pencils.
Water color pencils.
Ink.
Solvents.
Box of still life objects found at thrift stores.
Light box DIY 11.5 inches.
Body kun and poser figure.
Poser hand.
Hardware lights/studio lighting for studies.

There's lots of shit that is filling my drawers. I keep having to find new storage methods.

[Anonymous No.3843133]

>>3843000
>>3843018
Dude, why the fuck do you need all that shit? Instead of buying three shitty tablets you could have just bought one normal Wacom tablet. What are all those brushes for if you just paint with gouache? What the fuck is a "regular shitty cheap paint" anyway? Six fucking stumps, lots of pencils, all unsharpened, meme poser figures... And what the hell is that pen with a blue wire?

Nice box of still life stuff though.

[Anonymous No.3843140]

All you need

[Anonymous No.3843240]

>>3843140
Ngmi

[Anonymous No.3843245]

>>3843140
Is that an HB pencil? Buy a softer one, also you need an eraser. Then you're set.

[Anonymous No.3843247]

>>3843240
He's right though, if you only want to do digital art.

[Anonymous No.3843251]

>>3843240
>>3843245
>bitching about materials
Would be surprised if I couldn’t stunt on you guys

[Anonymous No.3843820]

>>3843133
I'm poor and so I take what I can get. I experiment all the time and do different things. I have more then what I'm showing, I've amassed quite a numerous amount of supplies. Cheap paints as in those shitty art kit paints, they work but not great. I hunt at thrift stores all the time.

[Anonymous No.3843841]

>>3843820
>I'm poor and so I
So you buy shit you don't need? Maybe that's why you're poor? How much do those poser dolls with anatomy cost? How much do all your tablets cost combined? Do you use your set of pigma microns? When I wanted to try liners I bought three cheapest ones, then bought one micron, today I have 4 microns (.05, 0.1, 0.3 and 0.5) and I find that that's quite enough. I also think there's absolutely no reason not to buy some decent cheaper ones instead of microns.

>Cheap paints as in those shitty art kit paints
Are they gouache, or watercolours, or acrylics, or what? They can't be "just paints" they have to be something.

[Anonymous No.3843971]

>>3825288
Hey anon we've been trying to tell you,.. that..
How should I frame this?!
Unplug the internet from your machine, destroy the router and KYS

[Anonymous No.3843992]

>>3823958
Thinking of starting watercolors, what is a good cheap set to start training

[Anonymous No.3844016]

>>3843992
Good watercolor isn't cheap. I'll defend cheap pans and pulp paper for dicking around but good form demands good supplies. A 12 pan cotman set isn't bad if you get some nice brushes and aren't sure if you'll stick with it but 30 dollars in kit doesn't compare to a couple artist grade tubes and cotton rag paper as far as how paint and paper are supposed to handle. I don't have a problem with it as a cheap entry point but quality paints are a wholly different experience. Paper too.

It's way easier to cheap out on anything else and not feel the sting.

[Anonymous No.3844020]

>>3843992
>what is a good cheap set to start training
haha there isnt. a red, blue, yellow, earth tone, and maybe a green is about the base i'd recommend but ideally split primary with some burnt umber, burnt sienna, or even a yellow ochre.

synthetic brushes nowadays are pretty good and reasonably priced. and for paper i'd recommend some 100% cotton. so you're looking at at least $30 for paint, $5-12 for brushes, and then $15-20 on paper. cheap or student grade watercolors are only going to frustrate you instead of make you learn so i'd steer away from cotmans and the like. good brands are in no order: holbein, schmincke, m graham, royal talens/van gogh/rembrandt, daniel smith, sennelier, whatever you can afford. if i absolutely had to recommend a beginner set it might be the prima marketing sets just because of the case, i have the classics but they're a bad selection and i'd recommend the tropicals https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH7BSEnAWBs

[Anonymous No.3844090]

>>3844016
Oh, I know that profissional watercolor isn't cheap but I don't really want to spend money on a real good set just to ruin it with my amateur skills.
That's why I asked for a cheap one, it's more to train to see if watercolors and I can work well together

>>3844020
Thanks, gonna look up the prima marketing tropical one.

[Anonymous No.3844106]

>>3844090
>That's why I asked for a cheap one, it's more to train to see if watercolors and I can work well together
You're not listening but you'll find out when you try. It's recommended to use pro watercolor from the start because beginner materials are trash and actively work against you. Pigment load, paper, everything.

[Anonymous No.3844227]

>>3843000
>oil pastel
>butt plugs
Seems about right

[Anonymous No.3844241]

>>3824077
Wacom, eat your heart out.

[Anonymous No.3844246]

Literally this. Ballpoints are my jam, and Bic is the best.
I also use a Samsung Galaxy Tab A for digital art.

[Anonymous No.3844289]

>>3843133
>What are all those brushes for if you just paint with gouache?

Why wouldn't you need lots of brushes for goauche? I trained in that for my degree, and I had a huge collection of brushes by the time I graduated?

And why are you so angry at what someone else has?

[Anonymous No.3844347]

>>3844227
Idont see the plug lol
>tfw one is in my art supplies and an aneros (which i reccomend more than a plug).

[Anonymous No.3844375]

>>3844090
It's not the same at all using cheap shit. If you can draw at all, a good set is there for you whenever. Anon saying to get some primaries and earths has it right. Yellow, light red, dark red, blue, an earth or two and maybe something else later is all you need. Throw in brushes and a palette and you're still under a hundred bucks including paper.

For the sake of being pedantic, cheap sets don't even have real ultramarine which is the cheapest pigment that used to cost more than gold, the burnt sienna is shitty and most aren't semitransparent so you can't get earthy texture, the ochre isn't a greasy green grey mess that turns into a surprisingly bright yellow that takes glazes, your yellow is a mystery mix that will shit the bed every time you blend it, the reds are all awful when cadmiums, quinacridone magenta, and perylene maroon exist, and the viridian hue is just pthalo and stains like a bitch. Getting iron blue, yellow ochre and burnt sienna with an optional red would be better and it's limited and not entirely optimal. Fuck, just ultramarine and burnt sienna from any reputable brand.

[Anonymous No.3844383]

>>3844090
You are not "wasting" materials, you are using them to learn.

[Anonymous No.3844389]

>>3823958
Cryola markers
you think this is a joke but they feel amazing.

[Anonymous No.3844404]

I want to make one of these myself, because I'm not paying $50 for it. https://etchrlab.com/products/mirror

It's a projector to go from a phone or tablet to a piece of plexi or something. Any recommendations for that material? I'm going to look at Home Depot and some hardware places tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.3844441]

>>3844289
I use like 3 brushes totes for watercolor and gouache.

[Anonymous No.3844520]

>>3844404
It's not a projector, you're looking merely at the reflection of the screen in the plexiglass and the paper below it is visible allowing you to trace. Anngle is important, it might be tricky to avoid distortions like this.

[Anonymous No.3844529]

>>3844375
not that anon but I've been using a cotman set with my first attempt at watercolors and I had noticed viridian hue stained the palette. Why does it do that?

[Anonymous No.3844530]

>>3844246
ballpoint pens are an amazing medium in the rights hands, very underrated

[Anonymous No.3844567]

>>3840536
Prismacolor is super smooth, but a little pricey. Try getting one pencil first before commiting to a whole set

[Anonymous No.3844580]

>>3844289
Like this guy said >>3844441, you need only a few brushes for gouache and watercolor. I don't have an art degree, but my mentor and a lot of other artists I know recommend using only about 5 brushes for this stuff. Of course, you can buy more if you want and have a lot of spare money, but that anon has acrylics brushes, oil brushes, all kinds of brushes that you shouldn't use for gouache.

I'm not angry at what he has, I'm astonished at how people can waste money like that while claiming to be poor.

[Anonymous No.3844620]

I started working on loomis books. Can you guys suggest me a good set of pencils? (Or singular ones) I just got some stadlers, a 3H, HB6,2B and a B. They work ok, but they are running out and I am unsure of what to buy next.

[Anonymous No.3844631]

>>3844529
There's probably phthalo pigments in it which are super staining, also plastic palettes are particularly shit because of this, they stain. Cheap enamel also stains.

[Anonymous No.3844633]

>>3844620
I just use the cheap Staedtler Noris, the school pencils. They come in packs of 36. I honestly don't see a difference between those in 2B and more expensive artists pencils like faber castell 9000, it's the same shit.

[Anonymous No.3844951]

>>3824069
>>3824071
I recently got an Escoda Ultimo brush, I like it a bit better than the Prado line, it's less stiff and holds more water.
But fine brushes nonetheless.

[Anonymous No.3845268]

All I've ever needed. Mechanical pencil master race.

[Anonymous No.3845308]

>>3845268
O great master race, if only you could stoop down to us lowly peasants, and try a soft pencil, maybe your work could actually look decent. Learning to draw would be nice too, of course.

[Anonymous No.3845322]

Why are drafting pencils and shit like GraphGear called automatic pencils instead of mechanical pencils? You still have to push to advance the lead but the clutch is just more complicated. I stupidly thought it'd be like a Kuru Toga when I bought mine so I was a little confused.

It's hard to search up things about this online.

[Anonymous No.3845337]

>>3845322
They're all technically clutch pencils but the difference is you don't have to sharpen them or hold your mouth the right way to advance the lead. Also japs and english aren't the best of friends.

[Anonymous No.3845341]

>>3845322
>GraphGear
I have a graphgear and I've always regarded it as a mechanical pencil. In what sense is the clutch more complicated?

[Anonymous No.3845347]

>>3845268
>mechanical pencil is all I need
>posts shitty drawing with a marker

[Anonymous No.3845423]

Anyone else used one of these? got one on a whim and was pleasantly surprised. It's like a brush pen for people who hate brush pens and may even be a good alternative to nibs. Not 100% sure if it's refillable yet, but it looks like you could refill it.

[Anonymous No.3845428]

>>3845423
It's one of the only good brush pens because the rest are felt tipped shit.

[Anonymous No.3845444]

>>3845423
What makes it different from the normal pentel brush pen?

[Anonymous No.3845462]

>>3845444
not him but the tip isn't an actual brush like the pentel. There's the normal brush pens, felt tip shit, and then pens like these. It's a good balance between expressive brushes and consistency of felt.

[Anonymous No.3845586]

I'm thinking on getting one of these for the next week. Any experiences? What are some disadvantages on getting the smaller version instead of the medium sized one? I mean besides the wrist pain. This would be my first tablet. Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.3845587]

>>3845586
>Any recommendations?

Get the medium sized one instead.

[Anonymous No.3845591]

>>3845586
Small tablets are a complete waste of time. Go at least medium size

[Anonymous No.3845593]

>>3845587
K. I guess I'm gonna save for it.

[Anonymous No.3845602]

>>3845586
Nothing much. Works perfectly fine. Digital takes time to get used to anyways, so expecting it to be the same as drawing on paper is not going to fly. Only got it because the medium was too big for my desk, but it turns out small is great anyways.

[Anonymous No.3845625]

>>3845586
As the others said, go for at least a medium sized one. If you can't afford a bigger one from Wacom, buy one from a cheaper brand like Huion - just don't waste money on a small tablet.

[Anonymous No.3845629]

>>3844633
You'll notice the difference moving to real drawing paper, and trying to control your values. The basic "school" pencil is fine for learning, but for more advanced/polished work, the better pencils are needed.

[Anonymous No.3845639]

>>3844441
And? I don't. I have collections of brushes from years of painting.

My goauche collection is things like filberts in all sizes, squares, rounds going from 000 to 1/2", and I've used them all. I've also got mops, fans, and blenders. I worked exclusively in goauche for years before going digital, I couldn't have worked professionally with 3 brushes. Why would you limit yourself? Is this yet another made up measurement here, or something?

If you only want to use 3 brushes, go for it, but what you want won't work for anyone. I like having options and choices to get paint onto canvas and paper in lots of different ways.

[Anonymous No.3845695]

>>3845639
I'm picky about brushes and I have like 8. I guess watercolor isn't as demanding when it comes to the brush as long as it's good and recovers from being fucked with.

[Anonymous No.3845809]

>>3845268
>Uses the pencil to shade and not the the gray blending marker.

baka

[Anonymous No.3846134]

>>3845462
Original poster here. You seem to know what you're talking about. Can you actually refill it? I've looked online and haven't found anything but it honestly looks like the kind of pen you could refill when it's empty.

[Anonymous No.3846184]

>>3845629
To be fair I just use pencil for underdrawings that I ink afterwards, but I never noticed a difference between a staedtler lumograph 2b, a faber-castell 9000 2b, and a noris 2b in terms of feel or performance, it's all the same, they sharpen the same, they're all the same, of course if you want to draw with a 6b pencil you're forced into buying the high end models, there's nothing like that on the cheap end. Maybe it's true for those xerox pencil portraits of celebrities

>>3845586
definitely get a medium sized tablet

[Anonymous No.3846193]

>>3846134
I am not the person you asked but no those are not refillable. If you go to jetpens (the site you pulled the stock photo from) and go to a product page and click 'specifications' you can see it noted whether a product is refillable.

[Anonymous No.3846200]

>>3845268
how do you use guidelines and still fuck the proportions up?

[Anonymous No.3846258]

>>3845586
Don't listen to faggots telling you a small tablet is useless. Here's what you should consider:
- If it's your first tablet, you will need some time to get used to using it. It takes less time with a small tablet.
- Account for the size of your screen. If you have a large screen you definitely need a larger tablet. If you have a small screen, then a small tablet will do.
- If you usually draw large on paper, you will probably find a small tablet uncomfortable.
- You can draw on a small tablet, you can use it for professional work even. In my opinion a small wacom is better than a larger cheap Chinese tablet. I don't have much experience with Chinese tablets though.
I started out with a small wacom bamboo and it was great. I had a laptop with a small screen and I tend to draw small on paper. I have a medium tablet now, it's better for sure, but I definitely wouldn't buy anything bigger than that.

[Anonymous No.3846264]

>>3846258
>In my opinion a small wacom is better than a larger cheap Chinese tablet. I don't have much experience with Chinese tablets though.
so a completely useless opinion. a 10x6 huion is great. not saying a large, that's honestly too big, but a medium is the right size. small is a waste of money and time. yes you can get things done if you know what you're doing but it's not going to be easy and probably make you hate digital more than anything.

[Anonymous No.3846273]

>>3846258
Oh, forgot to say, there's another good thing about a small tablet plus laptop combination, you can take them with you anywhere, to a figure drawing class, for plein air painting, etc.

>>3846264
>yes you can get things done if you know what you're doing but it's not going to be easy and probably make you hate digital more than anything.
Did you read my post? I learned digital art on a small tablet and I loved it.

[Anonymous No.3846280]

>>3846273
And I quit digital art because of a small bamboo fun years ago until I got a Huion medium last year. For most people, small tablets are not great. Laptop and tablet really isn't that portable of a combination either.

[Anonymous No.3846389]

>>3846184
For underdrawing, doesn't matter - I'll whatever is closest to hand. I'm talking about finished pencil drawings, like Alan Lee does. Hard to get this kind of work with cheap pencils.

[Anonymous No.3847070]

>>3845423
I use this and is refillable. I haven't buy Faber Castell's PITT brush pens since I got this one.

https://www.jetpens.com/Platinum-Japanese-Art-Pocket-Brush-Pen/pd/1971

[Anonymous No.3847718]

How do I use these?

[Anonymous No.3847747]

>>3847718
>it's one of those pens to write in arabic
you probably have to stick them into the neck stump of a freshly chopped off infidel head and write Allahu Akhbar with the blood that pours out

[Anonymous No.3847750]

>>3847718
it's just a meme dip pen

[Anonymous No.3847767]

>>3845268
nice thickness on the rotring rapid pro... I love my graphgear500, but it often seems too narrow.

[Anonymous No.3847861]

>>3847750
I just want to draw cool drawings...

[Anonymous No.3848060]

>>3847070
Nice. Thanks for the heads up.

[Anonymous No.3848245]

what does writing/drawing with a rapidograph/isograph pen feel like vs something like a pigma micron?

[Anonymous No.3848568]

>>3848245
Scratchy but smooth vs cheap.

[Anonymous No.3848821]

>>3848245
A micron is a felt tip, rapidographs are metal nibs with a pipette wire that delivers the ink.

Rapidographs were invented for mechanical drawing and drafting, to deliver a consistent, even line. They're great for art, but the nibs are designed for paper with a vellum finish, like drafting paper. They tend to be scratchy on art papers (and will clog/wear out faster).
I love rapidographs, but they are a pain to maintain.

[Anonymous No.3848831]

>>3848245
I use rapidographs for lettering and balloons. You have to hold them upright and write relatively slowly or the line won't be consistent. Bad for drawing, if you want something portable use a fountain pen - I like the Platinum Carbon pen, it's cheap. If you draw in the studio use a dip pen, they blow everything else away.

[Anonymous No.3848936]

>>3847718
With a knife make a small cut on the tip so it can hold ink.
I'd suggest to also cut one of them to have a wide flat tip.
I've used dips pens before and they get dry really fast so keep your ink as close as possible, I used to hold it with the other hand while inking.

[Anonymous No.3848966]

>>3848568
>>3848821
>>3848831


thanks so much for the replies. I've been using a Pilot Metropolitan.. it's the first fountain pen I've used but i like it thus far so maybe i'll pick up a Platinum Carbon too and give it a try. any recommendations for a dip pen? I'm really trying to find something refillable/reusable to replace felt tips. I've seen videos on youtube of people refilling some felt tips like microns, staedtler and faber-castell but it's a bit ghetto and seems like it would jeopardize the integrity of the pen.

[Anonymous No.3848971]

>>3848568
>tfw g-pens are actually scratchy and not the smoothness you expected ink to be
Biggest revelation of life.

[Anonymous No.3849108]

>>3848966
>so maybe i'll pick up a Platinum Carbon too and give it a try
Don't bother, fountain pens are all the same, the one you have is OK. You'd just waste money.

>any recommendations for a dip pen?
Japanese nibs, there's 3 main types, G, maru and kabura.
G is the standard, very flexible, you can do everything with it and it's what is used in most manga. Kabura is like the G but has a steadier line and is less flexible. maru is basically a crowquill and makes really thin delicate lines and is also very flexible, but they wear out fast and they're the most expensive type.
I usually use a kabura + maru or a G + maru.
You can buy a starter set here
https://www.amazon.com/Tachikawa-Comic-Holder-Chrome-PG-6C-C-K/dp/B01AT9X67K/
https://www.amazon.com/Kuretake-Manga-Pen-Ink-Bottle/dp/B000UF756W/
Remember to put the ink bottle far from the page and dip the nib only halfway through, also have a sheet of paper around to make a little line after you dip so you remove excess ink and avoid false starts.
and of course use decent paper that doesn't bleed, bristol will do.
Ink is amazing, one of the most beautiful mediums IMO

[Anonymous No.3849115]

>>3849108
tagging onto this I highly recommend picking up a used copy of rendering in pen & ink by guptill and composition by dow as either a hardcopy book or the pdf. since you have the ink, you can also use brushes too which are a another approach to pen and ink. this is a cheap set that comes with three decent brushes. i'm still using the first one and they hold a surprising amount of ink. you can also use it for ink painting/ink washes.
https://www.amazon.com/MasterChinese-Chinese-Calligraphy-Watercolor-Drawing/dp/B06XQCV282/

[Anonymous No.3849138]

I love the way uniball vision elite (0.8m) feels/puts down lines, but at the rate I'm using them I'll go through 1 in 4-5days. Each pen is like $2. Anyone got any suggestions for a similar rollerball/felttip that's $1 or under? and no I don't like fountain pens at all.

[Anonymous No.3849198]

whats the best number of these pens to get?
most say you don't need the full set of 80 (or is it 90? i keep seeing 90 on their website, but most youtubers say 80 is the full set. yet the sell both but i digress)
i got 6 to try them out and of course thats not enough. what's a good number to get a good variety? 24? 48? 60?
i jst don't know if i want a dozen pinks i'll never use

[Anonymous No.3849414]

>>3848971
Had you never heard someone using one? That sound is horrifying.

[Anonymous No.3849452]

>>3827574
got the pen in the mail

[Anonymous No.3849455]

>>3849452
Sadly they stopped producing drawing tools so no ink compass heads and stuff. Made a little test against a maru nib which is the finest line I have, I love the idea of super thin consistent lines, this is gonna be great for vehicles.

[Anonymous No.3849477]

>>3823958
I'm posting here because it would be wasteful to make a thread for one question

Anyone got experience with the surface pen? How does it compare to actual drawing tablets?

I'm a total beginner and have drawing on with the surface pen. Is it good enough or should I look into getting an actual tablet?

[Anonymous No.3849480]

>>3848971
Japanese nibs are very stiff in general, Western ones are more flexible. It also depends on the kind of paper you're using

[Anonymous No.3849600]

>>3849198
http://www.realbrush.jp/en/lineup.html
color comparison for people who aren't sure

[Anonymous No.3851239]

>>3842988
>Keep forgetting the diversity of people that use 4chan
What, the diversity of weird white kids that wish they could skate?
That was the type that stole markers when I was a kid.

[Anonymous No.3852328]

[Anonymous No.3852352]

What do you guys use to carry your tooly woolies?

[Anonymous No.3852396]

>>3845268
>All I've ever needed. Mechanical pencil master race.
Anybody else hate the shape of the tip on the Graphgear?
I had one and gave it away.

[Anonymous No.3852547]

>>3852352
Jap pencil cases, toothbrush holders, need to find a way to carry brushes. Haven't done much plein air because I don't have a good solution. Soft storage is out of the question but I need something to secure then and keep the tips from getting fucked.

[Anonymous No.3852832]

Where my comic bros at

[Anonymous No.3852852]

Anyone ever try using a 3mm lead holder for crow quill nibs? What would you recommend?

>>3852832
Based traditional comic artist. I think I saw you on another thread

[Anonymous No.3852856]

>>3852852
If you're referring to the guy who posted that glass table, yeah that's me.

And to answer your question, I'd recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Koh-i-noor-Black-Metal-Holder-Sharpener/dp/B005AFLE1Y

Pro-tip: you can also gut Col-Erase pencils and fit the lead inside the pencil as well.

http://www.comic-tools.com/2012/04/col-erase-leads-there-arent-any.html

[Anonymous No.3852858]

>>3852832
another one here but I don't have pictures of my tools

[Anonymous No.3853087]

>bohooo nobody cares about my art I want to give up
>*buys 100 dollars worth of paper*

[Anonymous No.3853092]

>>3852352
I'm curious about this too. If I want to go through to the city or somewhere and do some drawing, I either have to just carry my sketchbook and have pockets full of supplies, or just go for a full on bag that will be mostly empty.
I know it's a meme about female artists having things easier but I really envy them for having all these handbags and satchels and things that are the right size for just a sketchbook and some tools.

[Anonymous No.3853095]

>>3853092
I have a backpack that only has art supplies for plein air in it, I bought a canvas pencil case and sawed my brush handles to fit them in
these days I rarely use it
otherwise I just have a bunch of waterbrushes and a small palette inside a pocket of my messenger bag but I'm thinking of buying a foldable regular brush and a nalgene bottle because I fucking hate waterbrushes
at home I have all my supplies stashed inside pic related

[Anonymous No.3853506]

>>3852352
Apple Pencil case. I put my pencils, dip pens, lead tube, and eraser in there. Gonna get that little uni lead pointer someday as well.

>>3852547
I think you can make caps for brushes with some kind of tubing or something. I saw a video somewhere about it. Then you can just use an apple pencil case like I use. Hard outside but soft inside.

[Anonymous No.3853943]

>>3853095
>I fucking hate waterbrushes
They're a great alternative that allows you to work faster, but they have a tendency to choke up pigment.

[Anonymous No.3853958]

>>3853943
I hate that you can't control the flow of water at all. You can't go from dry to wet, it's just wet or MORE wet. Something I like to do with watercolor is lay down a relatively dry brushstroke then with a smaller, damp brush go over the edge so it blends. I like laying down a wash then drying the brush and lifting some pigment to create texture. You can't do that with waterbrushes, you can only make washes of some sort which is absolutely a shit way of using watercolor. Also I draw small and there's just so much water coming out of the brush that if you try to do detail you get a massive bead of water and you just can't manipulate the pigment.
I ordered two escoda versatil travel brushes and a nalgene bottle yesterday after a bunch of failed sketches in hospital, that was so frustrating.

[Anonymous No.3853970]

>>3853958
Have you tried putting down some gouache first, waiting for it to dry and then laying down some transparent colour on top of it? This was a technique favoured by Sargent.

[Anonymous No.3853971]

>>3853970
*white goache

[Anonymous No.3853982]

>>3853970
I don't have gouache in my small bag simply because you can't use it dry, only from the tube. If you put a bit of gouache on a palette and have it dry, it cracks and crumbles so you open the palette and all you get is bits of dry paint fall all over you.
I usually don't have much time to sketch in public, so I can get a couple washes and maybe some drybrush on top (currently impossible because of waterbrushes). Also I work in ink + transparent pigments most of the time so there's just no place for opaque stuff.
I only have gouache tubes in my backpack and I mostly use it on top of watercolor for opaque details / correction.
I'm going to look into this white gouache underlay though.

[Anonymous No.3853983]

Ox Gall is used for washes, so maybe Gum Arabic would be better. The gum allows for easier lifting but I don't know what a waterbrush would do to it.

[Anonymous No.3853985]

>>3824976
Just use a can of cheap hairspray for adhesive. Does the same job.

[Anonymous No.3853988]

>>3853983
I'm pretty sure it would be impossible to do this with a waterbrush simply because they would pour so much water onto the gouache that it would end up reactivating

[Anonymous No.3854165]

>>3849477
It is okay and you can be great. I was never a fan of the smooth glass personally and regret buying mine.

[Anonymous No.3854412]

>>3853985
I heard about that but a dude told me that years later it becomes yellowish and developes fungi.

[Anonymous No.3854501]

>>3852832
where can I learn about proper trad workflow in drawing comics
western is all digital, japanese are all those mangakas that do twenty pages a day with no sketch

[Anonymous No.3854816]

Recommendations for a clipboard?

[Anonymous No.3855294]

>>3853988
I just use the waterbrush to create reservoirs of water in the plastic palette. I usually brush off some water and pigment before applying it.

[Anonymous No.3855343]

>>3853982
If you just want some white to take with you, a small brush with a shortened handle and an airtight bottle with some thinned white goauche would work fine.

[Anonymous No.3855344]

>>3853983
GA isn't a thinning agent, you use it to revitalize dried paint, it's a binder.

Goauche in a waterbrush sounds like a bad idea, it's thicker than watercolor, because they add chalk or calcium carbonate or other stiffeners to make it opaque, and it dries faster because of it - you'd clog a waterbrush up pretty fast with it, I would think.

It would be worth experimenting with, like on an older worn out one, but I don't have any waterbrushes on hand these days.

[Anonymous No.3855362]

>>3855344
those strawmen could scare away a field of crows

[Anonymous No.3855367]

I like this method of packing charcoal and lead holders.

[Anonymous No.3855488]

>>3854501
What do you mean by work flow?

[Anonymous No.3855490]

>>3854412
>a dude told me that years later it becomes yellowish and developes fungi.
ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh shit

[Anonymous No.3855666]

>>3855488
What steps should be done to work effectively from storyboard to finished page. I watched a lot of documentaries and it's so varied from artist to artist I can hardly infer any common points.
So far I myself draw a sketch and draw over it on a lightbox. I saw some artist sketch with non repro blue and then ink over it and I tried that and it works too, but both methods are very inefficient in my opinion. I never really learned anything from watching mangakas because they are too good for a scrub like me to pick up anything useful

[Anonymous No.3855763]

>>3855362
Back to /pol, kid. There's no "strawman" argument in my post. Go be an idiot somewhere else, we're talking about art.

[Anonymous No.3855768]

>>3855666
>I watched a lot of documentaries and it's so varied from artist to artist
Because everyone gets to his workflow by working on it. What works for you might not work for me and vice versa. You only get there by trying, if you don't like a method then discard it, try new approaches. I do lots of thumbnails then I scan what I like, blow it up digitally and make a polished drawing, print them then ink on a lightbox.

[Anonymous No.3855788]

>>3855768
You see why I'm asking about 'trad' way to do comics is because I'm limiting myself by trying to avoid using computer entirely and your prices as you describe it relies on it. I'm looking into how people used to do it before what you described became the norm.

[Anonymous No.3855805]

>>3855788
>I'm looking into how people used to do it before what you described became the norm.
Pretty much the same way minus the computer part. Just make sketches and thumbnails and copy that composition at 2X print size on a page, then ink it. Maybe use a lightbox to keep the original drawing in case something goes wrong. It's not a very complex process, digital tools just made it faster / more convenient.

[Anonymous No.3855846]

>>3855763
Do you speak English as a second language? I never told you to put gouache inside of a waterbrush. Also you thin watercolours with water, why would I recommend Gum Arabic for the same thing?

[Anonymous No.3855939]

>>3855788
>>3855666
You sorta answered your own question there. And like the other anon said, everyone has a different approach. I personally start with a written script, then do thumbnails and layouts in my sketchbook till I find a layout that I like, then move on to pencils and inks on the same board.

Since I don’t have the luxury of having a printer that can print out at 11X17, and I just love traditional drawing too much, I just draw it all directly on the board.

Here’s an example of what my layouts would look like.

Post 1/2

[Anonymous No.3855943]

>>3855939
Post 2/2

And here is what the pencils would look like. But ultimately, you just have to find whatever method gets those drawings on the canvas and tells that story.

[Anonymous No.3855951]

>>3855846
Why are you so angry? You accused me of making a strawman argument, and I was just posting some thoughts on goauche.

This is why I usually just want to give you and the rest of the angry assholes here the finger. Then I remember it's 4chan, not a forum for normal, rational people, and I just laugh at your anger.

[Anonymous No.3855958]

>>3855939
>>3855943
I was asking because I feel like I'm needlessly reinventing the wheel developing my own method while there might me an already established practice that would be more efficient and productive than what I arrived at so far

[Anonymous No.3855964]

>>3855943
Jasper Gold is that you?

[Anonymous No.3855965]

What are some interesting mediums to use for traditional anime art ,more so for colour.

[Anonymous No.3855968]

>>3855958
Manga is the most optimized workflow you can imagine, check out the Manben series if it still exists. Most artists still work on that sketch > ink method with their assistants drawing background that are pasted into the page. It doesn't really change if you do the non-drawing steps digitally, it's just faster. And even then, mangaka have different workflows based on what they are trying to achieve. Smaller, independent mangaka who can work more slowly can even approach pages in a trial and error kind of way.

[Anonymous No.3855972]

[Anonymous No.3855980]

>>3855958
I get where you’re coming from. And I understand what you mean. But unfortunately there’s just no right answer except try and see what works for you.

>>3855964
Yep, it’s me. Hello.

[Anonymous No.3855984]

>>3855965
watercolour, gouache, acrylic? I've seen animators using colour pans before.

[Anonymous No.3856010]

>>3855666
Mangaka start by drawing a "name" or storyboard. Just fold an A4 piece of paper in half and delineate the rough drawing.

[Anonymous No.3856012]

[Anonymous No.3856015]

[Anonymous No.3856016]

[Anonymous No.3856019]

Another option is to buy B4 manga paper, and fold it in half so that you can draw two B5 pages on smooth kent paper.

7x10" or so

[Anonymous No.3856025]

>>3856019
There are some nice cheap notebooks for it that have grid dots. Most I've seen are most sticky note than notebook though.

[Anonymous No.3856124]

Looks like Mitsubishi pencils and a Kuru Toga are enough of a jump-start

[Anonymous No.3856217]

>>3855968
>>3855980
well thanks for answers
I'll just have to keep at it

[Anonymous No.3856388]

>>3853982
I have some Holbein gouache in half pans in my travel watercolor case that haven't fallen out or cracked on 2 hour plane rides. It's not that bad with a waterbrush. The only issue is because they're Holbein they're still fairly transparent until you mix some white into them.

I think I need to make a setup like Gurney because waterbrush isn't my favorite either but I'm a bit too worried to use my Da Vinci Maestro Round 10 if I don't have a way to clean it with running water easily (I don't use it with the gouache). I carry one or two of those microfiber car towels or paper towels to wipe up the excess water from edges of washes or take some moisture from the waterbrush. I'm undecided on Nalgene with epoxy magnets under or those $2 clip on aluminum water cups.

[Anonymous No.3856430]

>>3855980
I completely lost you after JG went on hiatus, do you have a blog I can follow?

[Anonymous No.3856434]

>>3855965
Many many artists use liquid watercolor since you can mix a specific hue just by writing down the number of drops.

[Anonymous No.3856435]

>>3856124
Kuru-toga are terrible for drawing, get a regular Pentel sharp or something

[Anonymous No.3856456]

I was looking at pentel brush pens and found pic related on ebay. Any experiences with them? You can fill them with ink and they're made to be refillable.

[Anonymous No.3856856]

>>3856456
some if not most pentel brush pens can be screwed apart and you can swap ink cartridges
kuretake brush pens don't come apart as far as I know, at least the cheapo ones I had

[Anonymous No.3857008]

>>3856124
>kuro toga
pic not related?

[Anonymous No.3857011]

>>3852832
>>3852852
>>3852858

What grade of pencil is better before inking? HB, B or 2B, and why?

[Anonymous No.3857013]

>>3856430
I’m currently in the works of putting together a proper website for my art, but at the moment you can follow me @ jamilsart on twitter and Instagram. I usually post stuff there.

[Anonymous No.3857019]

>>3857011
I usually use HB because it’s a neutral grade and it erases pretty good.

[Anonymous No.3857035]

>>3857019
any good brand to use that is smooth on HB?

[Anonymous No.3857043]

>>3856435
I like drawing with a Kuru Toga.

[Anonymous No.3857045]

>>3857011
I use 4H or 2H because it doesn't smudge and I don't have to sharpen as often. H at the very softest. B range stuff smudges too much for me personally, because I do lots of refining.

[Anonymous No.3857067]

>>3857035
Ticonderogas

[Anonymous No.3857333]

>>3852352
This roll-pen case.

[Anonymous No.3857581]

>>3852352
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXDNW7I

I bought this and really like it. It's a pencil bag AND a cup holder. I'm probably going to order a few more like it. They have different variations like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kokuyo-Tray-Type-Pencil-Case/dp/B0011E5SJC/

If I can get more than one use out of something and it doesn't compromise the quality, then I'm willing to pay just about anything at that point.

[Anonymous No.3857629]

>>3857581
I have this too. It took a bit to ship because it was during typhoon season and it's a bit smaller than I expected but I can carry anything I need. A midori 6 in folding ruler, 3 tones of grey copics, an aquash, 2 black and 2 brown microns, pentel brush pen, white uni signo, 2mm lead holder, da vinci travel brush, pentel ballpoint pen, and pentel block eraser. If I take out the 3 copics I can fit the Cotman small 12 pan case.

[Anonymous No.3857648]

Switched from regular pencils to a mechanical drafting pencil for sketching (Pentel Graphgear 500 in 0.5mm). Never going back. It's a real game changer.

[Anonymous No.3857686]

>>3857648
I didn't think I would like it, but 0.9mm is also a good size to try. Feels and looks more like a regular pencil in places where you want that

[Anonymous No.3857690]

>>3857686
not him, I have the black graphgear 500 which I believe is 0.5mm and it's great. i would never use 0.9 because i reckon finding lead would be annoying.

[Anonymous No.3857693]

>>3857690
ebay

[Anonymous No.3858078]

>>3857648
I did the opposite, I used to work with mechanical pencils only because I would ink the drawings anyway, but then I started using regular pencils / leadholders with an overhand grip and I learned that my sketches are a lot more expressive that way. Even if you lose the sketch when you ink, you can still get information from the pencil strokes.

[Anonymous No.3858162]

>>3858078
Same here. Lead holders are the best of both worlds. You get mechanical advantages like no shavings/shrinking pencil but you get the benefit of expressive lines with variation. Mechanical pencil drawings tend to have a dead look unless you manually build up lines or something.

[Anonymous No.3858455]

>>3847861
buy a tachikawa dip pen set and some nibs instead, this thing will just frustrate you.

[Anonymous No.3858461]

>>3849198
honestly go with 80 if you think you are actually going to use them. It is really difficult to make a good picture with limited colors. You can't mix them like paints, what you have is what you have when it comes to markers.

[Anonymous No.3858466]

>>3853092
I use a camera bag. It doesn't look weird, good compartments for supplies, perfect shape, and waterproof.

[Anonymous No.3858649]

>>3849198
i don't see the point of them when you can invest in copics or actual watercolor