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/fa/ - Fashion

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8517136 No.8517136[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

Okay so I'm an absolute nube when it comes to raw denim and I'm looking to fix that for myself and other anons are like me. My first question is about sizing. I've heard that raws shrink in the wash and stretch during wear, so should I size up or down from my standard denim (read: levis) size? I'm a 30 regularly. Also, I realize that most raw denim comes in crazy long inseams. What would be a safe length to have it at for pinrolling/cuffing if I get very mild stacks at 30 inseam? Thanks a bunch (if raw denim god guy is out there please come help)

>> No.8517163

Oh man, please do yourself a favor and save yourself the frustration - stay away from raw denim.

>> No.8517169

>>8517136

raw denim is shit and uncomfortable for a few months.
Just buy good fitting brandless jeans rather than going for 'superior' raws.

>> No.8517172

raw denim is fucking retarded.

>> No.8517175

>>8517163
Seriously? Why? I was under the impression that the fading provided a more attractive approach to dark wash denim

>> No.8517185

>>8517172
what would you suggest otherwise? or are you just shitposting because you're edgy

>> No.8517224

>>8517175
>>8517185
It isn't very comfortable, the blue bleeds on everything, and it's totally overpriced for what it is.

Just find good fitting jeans and enjoy. Denim sucks anyway.

>> No.8517235

>>8517175
>>8517185
Yeah you fucking memelord, who wouldn't want to purchase a pair of overpriced jeans that feel like shit and turn everything blue?
Just buy a pair of fucking jeans

>> No.8517240
File: 187 KB, 1365x900, bomay5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8517240

When it comes to sizing, what you should do is measure your best fitting pair of pants using this guide.

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=41

Then put your measurements into this site, and it will bring up all the different jeans that will fit you.

http://scout.rawrdenim.com/

Start off with something under $200. Since this is your first pair, you may fuck it up or decide you hate it, which would be a shame if you spent $350 on an amazing pair.

Remember, they are just jeans. Don't baby them. Wear the shit out of them.

>> No.8517242

>>8517224
sweatpants master race

>> No.8517254

>>8517240
What's the best way to make pinrolls look less shitty?

>> No.8517262

>>8517240
LOL SICK FADES

Honestly, fading looks like shit. This is the year 2014.

>> No.8517270

>>8517254

you can't - they're the very definition of try-hard.

>> No.8517276

>>8517270
There has to be a way
what do I do if my shoes are white and I want to wear jeans, they all make them blue, even non raws

>> No.8517282

>>8517276
Don't wear white shoes with denim that bleeds.

>> No.8517292

>>8517282
w2c denim that doesn't bleed?

>> No.8517295

>>8517276
clean ur shoes

>> No.8517297

>>8517136

Very 2006

>> No.8517311

>>8517262
>muh monochrome

>> No.8517320

>>8517297
you're talking to someone on a forum perpetually stuck in 2011s monochrome streetwear trend like it's new shit bruh

>> No.8517353

Yo i'm selling some Momotaros on grailed size 30 for a good price http://www.grailed.com/listings/10930-momotaro-momotaro-x-context-701-113xx

>> No.8517387

>>8517353
No fuck this buy the grey silks for sale much more versatile

>> No.8517389

>>8517163
>>8517169
>>8517224
>>8517262
>>8517235
autists. autists everywhere. don't listen to these faggots, op. breaking in raw denim isn't even very painful unless you have some very heavyweight denim (17oz+). for comparison, Levis denim is 11.2oz.

don't waste your money on mall brand denim because it's going to fall apart on you in six months tops. raw denim is thicker, made with better materials and stitched better and will last you upwards of three years for every pair you buy.

honestly if you spend more than $50 on a pair of denim that isnt raw or isn't some crazy avant garde yohji shit then you just wasted your money.


in order to minimize bleeding, soak or wash your pair once you get them. contrary to popular autistic belief that won't ruin the fades.

denim will never be out of style, whether /fa/ monochrome faggots admit it or not.

>>8517240
this is good advice. listen to this guy. I reccommend finding some naked and famous denim on sale for your starter pair, if you don't want to spend too much money. otherwise you have a lot of options, depending on your price range.

>> No.8517400

>>8517389
Thanks for the helpful advice. I was looking at Japan Blue because they seem to have the best price/quality intersection from what I've read and I've seen some really nice fades off of them. What do you think about them?

>> No.8517407

>>8517389
>upwards of three years for every pair you buy.
That's basically how much ANY pants in general last for me and I always use whatever I have to skate and other pretty damaging shit.

>> No.8517413

>>8517400
I bought a pair of Japan Blue X Momotaro for my first pair. Good construction and fit, but they tend to fade a little slower than most.

>> No.8517426

>>8517400
I highly recommend Japan blue. they aren't talked about very much but damn do they give you some good bang for your buck.

these are some good pairs from them
https://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-x-blue-owl-14oz-indigoindigo-low-tension-skinny-straight-selvedge-denim/

^ these are darker than regular blue jeans and will fade to a bright-ish blue and then to white. through their special low-tension weaving method I've heard that they are very soft, almost like wearing pyjamas at times.


http://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-148oz-tapered-vintage-raw-selvedge-denim-model-jb0401/

these are a standard blue jean with good tapered fit if you have big thighs but want a slim/skinny look

here is a standard indigo, more skinny leg jean
http://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-148oz-skinny-straight-vintage-raw-selvedge-denim-model-jb0201/

and this is the closest to a straight leg cut that they have as far as I know

>> No.8517435

>>8517407
but do you wear those jeans every single day, without washing them? because that's what most people do with their raws. there's simply no way shit tier mall brand jeans(unless they're Levi's) will last as long as raws will, through the same kind of abuse. it's a fact. I had a pair of American eagle jeans that lasted six months. six months before the warp yarns fell apart and the shitty spandex was showing through. then I upgraded to raws and never looked back.

>> No.8517470

>>8517262
You can buy denim that doesn't fade as easily. Also you can take care of jeans in a way that makes it less easy to fade but enthusiasts will gawk at you becuz sik fades bruh.

Honestly, raws are the shit for winter.

>> No.8517513
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8517513

Does anyone have bespoke raws?

I was thinking of getting my next pair from den.mbar. Having a completely custom pair sounds pretty cool.

>> No.8517531

>>8517136
>raw denim god guy
who?

>> No.8517562

>>8517531
There's a trip going by raw denim god and i thought he might be knowledgeable enough

>> No.8517810 [DELETED] 

>>8517562
hello yes that is me. i'm the one who posted all of the links to pairs of japan blues. i just forgot to trip.

>>8517470
>honestly, raws are shit for winter.
top fucking kek. you're trying to tell me that hot ass 18+oz denim is shit for winter? unless you live in the antartic, heavyweight denim is perfectly fine for cold temperatures as long as you get thick enough weight.

>> No.8517820

What about waxed jeans? Is naked and famous a good mid-tier provider?

>> No.8517823 [DELETED] 

>>8517562
hello yes that is me. i'm the one who posted all of the links to pairs of japan blues. i just forgot to trip.

>>8517470
>honestly, raws are shit for winter.
top fucking kek. you're trying to tell me that hot ass 18+oz denim is shit for winter? unless you live in the antartic, heavyweight denim is perfectly fine for cold temperatures as long as you get thick enough weight.

>>8517513
den.mbar is interesting. their prices are exorbitant($385 or someshit according to a SuFu thread i found), but their fabrics are all kinda boring. only 2 100% cotton fabrics,kaihara and cone mills, and both at low weights(12.5oz and 14oz). If they had some heavyweight options, or some denim with different colored wefts MAYBE they'd be worth the price. but for $385 you're better off just using the rawrdenim scout to find yourself a better pair.
if you wanna see the thread i found, it's a bit old but it's here
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/137932-bespoke-denim-in-dtla-denm-bar/

>> No.8517826

>>8517136

What is the best light blue/bleach denim tho?

>> No.8517828

>>8517823
nigga he said "the shit"
it's like when someone says "im the shit" they don't mean they are shit

>> No.8517837

>>8517562
hello yes that is me. i'm the one who posted all of the links to pairs of japan blues. i just forgot to trip.

>>8517470
>honestly, raws are shit for winter.
top fucking kek. you're trying to tell me that hot ass 18+oz denim is shit for winter? unless you live in the antartic, heavyweight denim is perfectly fine for cold temperatures as long as you get thick enough weight.

>>8517513

den.mbar is interesting. their prices are exorbitant($385 or someshit according to a SuFu thread i found), but their fabrics are all kinda boring. only 2 100% cotton fabrics,kaihara and cone mills, and both at low weights(12.5oz and 14oz). If they had some heavyweight options, or some denim with different colored wefts MAYBE they'd be worth the price. but for $385 you're better off just using the rawrdenim scout to find yourself a better pair.
if you wanna see the thread i found, it's a bit old but it's here
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/137932-bespoke-denim-in-dtla-denm-bar/

>>8517820
N&F is definitely a good option.

>>8517826
your best option is to buy yourself a pair of raws and bleach/wash it yourself

>> No.8517840

>>8517837
>>8517828
stop deleting ur posts

>> No.8517887

i buy cheap lee jeans and they've lasted about 3-4 years

what are you guys doing in your jeans that necessitates wasting 200-300 dollars on raw denim

only one of my pairs has a hole in the crotch and that's because it's the thinnest of all that i have but that would happen even in lightweight thin raw denim it has nothing to do with the fact that they're from a department store

>> No.8518685

>>8517837
what are some raws that have heavy tapers?

>> No.8518714

>>8518685

http://scout.rawrdenim.com/brands/oni/denim-jeans/oni-512-tapered-raw-denim-jeans

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/bears/item/theflathead-3012/

>> No.8518717

>>8517389
>raw denim is thicker, made with better materials and stitched better and will last you upwards of three years for every pair you buy.
Is that necessarily true?
Raws don't necessarily have to be selvedge after all.

>> No.8518751

>>8518717
You're assuming selvedge is better in some way. When is the last time you had to toss a pair of jeans because the inside seam unraveled?

>> No.8518759

>>8518717
I guess technically it's not true 100% of the time. But the only brand of raw denim that i've ever heard of that is cheaply made is A.P.C., and that's only recently. They changed their production and are much more shitty quality than they used to be.

There can be raw denim that is not selvedge but still well made and long lasting. It all depends on the brand.

But barring stupid shit like 20jeans, And brands that have fallen in quality like A.P.C., raw denim as a whole is much better constructed and longer lasting than typical denim. The only non-raw 'cheap' denim that comes close is Levis.

>> No.8518764

>>8518751
It's not just about the inside seam isn't it?
Isn't the overall construction (the weave, the stitiching etc.) better made than your standard ultramassproduced denim?

I seriously don't know.

I don't mind not having something that's raw, but I wouldn't mind buying something that was just better quality overall, if that's even possible.

>> No.8518770

>>8518759
Nudie raws are pretty poorly regarded.

>> No.8518786

>>8518764
As I understand it, most of the quality found in selvedge denim is related to the quality of the loom on which the denim is produced. The little red (or whatever color) tape indicative of a self edge only serves the purpose of keeping the edge from unraveling.

>> No.8518812

>>8518786
>tape indicative of a self edge only serves the purpose of keeping the edge from unraveling.
I'm aware of that, it just refers to the edging, but isn't that edging method inherent to the loom that produces quality denim in the first place anyway? In other words, denim of that relative quality is going to have that edge style anyway, hence it being used as the overall name of that those kinds of jeans.

>> No.8518850

>>8518812
I honestly don't know enough to provide a definite answer, but I believe that for the most part, yes, a true selvedge denim indicates an overall higher quality.

The reason I raised the point in the first place is that some manufacturers put a fake selvedge tape on their jeans to look trendy or give the appearance of high quality.

Additionally, when selvedge denim was first making a comeback in the 2000's, the looms used were all vintage shuttle looms, which produce unquestionably better fabric than the mass-production machines that superseded them. These days, there are new looms that are self edge, but I don't know enough about the machinery to say whether these looms provide the same benefits that the vintage looms did (a tighter weave, for instance).

>> No.8518862

>>8518812

Selvedge denim looms are narrower than modern projectile denim looms. Thus less pairs of jeans can be sewn from one roll of selvedge denim, which is part of why selvedge denim is more expensive than mall brand denim.

However, the quality of the denim is more determined by the type of cotton used to make the denim as well as the percentage of cotton to other materials used. Most raw denim is 100% cotton, and 100% cotton denim lasts infinitely longer than cotton and spandex blends. even as little as 1 or 2% of another material can negatively affect the longevity of the denim.

Additionally, selvedge denim looms also weave the cotton fibers tighter, making the denim more durable.

>> No.8518894

>>8518862
Do you know the deal with modern selvedge looms? Is the quality the same as the old machines, or have they adapted the self edge to modern mass production loose weave shit so all the fast fashion brands can boast a selvedge jean?

>> No.8518916

>>8518894
No I don't. that's some industry-level knowledge right there, and unfortunately I don't really have access to it. most of the reading i've done about denim has been on various fashion forums and a few articles on google scholar, and they're all about vintage stuff. Denim mills tend to keep the details about their processes pretty hush-hush unless they're selling directly to you.

>> No.8520093

>>8517826
patty ervell imo

>> No.8520100

>>8517837
oh thanks for the advice. I'm guessing a size 29 in Japan blues would be best suited for me? If i'm a thirty in regular jeans

>> No.8520114
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8520114

>>8517513
Yessir, Three pairs made to utmost quality in a third world sweatshop.

Cost The equivalent of $7 each, all raw denim.

The pair that's faded is from the first time I got a pair, has held up a year fine.

>Dat perfect fit
>Dat price
>Dat making fuccbois mad

Any questions? Will post more pics if you want

>> No.8520119
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8520119

>>8517513
>>8520114

They come fully featured too
Button fly, Covered hems if you want to roll (I don't) and fake levis tags.

I actually asked to not have them, but they but on the tag and left out the leather patch they usually do.

They said they'd stitch whatever patter I want into the back pockets too.
Thinking of getting some real nxtlvl shit, fucc on the left and boi on the right.

>> No.8520122

>>8518850
>Additionally, when selvedge denim was first making a comeback in the 2000's, the looms used were all vintage shuttle looms, which produce unquestionably better fabric than the mass-production machines that superseded them.
Anyone know of a manufacturer that still uses the old looms as mentioned in this post?

>> No.8520129

>>8517837
M8, he said the shit, not shit
learn to reading comprehension, not everyone's against you.

>> No.8520140

>>8520114
w2c

>> No.8520163

>>8520140
Mohan Singh Palace in Connaught Place, New Delhi, in this case.

Used to live there, still go back once a year for work.
Most third world countries should be the same though, they'll have a tailor district.

>> No.8520218

Thoughts on raw booty shorts?

A few companies offer selvedge really short cut shorts for men, look pretty qt.

>> No.8520228

what is the /fa/ opinion on Gustin?

>> No.8520249

>>8520228
Decent quality for absolute basic jeans, good if you want to experiment in raws for the first time. Not super high quality though, unbranded are an alternative.
>>8520218
Hella qt, links?
>>8520114
Coolio

>> No.8520326

>>8520100
don't guess. measure your current best fitting pair of jeans according to this guide and then see which pair matches up the best.
http://www.blueowl.us/measurement-guide/
>>8520129
>>8517828
yeah this is what happens when i'm on /fa/ at 4am, my reading skills go to shit. sorry

>>8520122
any company that says their denim comes from the Kaihara, Kuroki, Kurabo, Nisshinbo, or Cone mills uses vintage shuttle looms. Some are japanese Toyoda looms, and others are American Draper looms but they both produce quality products.

>> No.8520343

>>8520163
so you bought the denim yourself and took it there or what

>> No.8520491

>>8520343
Nope, it's a textile market too, actually bought some for other projects later.
7 dollars includes the fabric.

Was gonna buy some cone mills denim and have them do a jacket though.

(Also, I'm like 6'4", so getting tailored stuff is just so much easier)

>> No.8520798

>>8520326
>any company that says their denim comes from the Kaihara, Kuroki, Kurabo, Nisshinbo, or Cone mills uses vintage shuttle looms. Some are japanese Toyoda looms, and others are American Draper looms but they both produce quality products.

Fanks a lot m8

>> No.8520970

How difficult is it to get your jeans tailored? I need to get my thigh narrowed and leg opening, they fit perfectly in the waist. I don't really know what to expect since I've never tailored clothes before and don't want the stitching to unravel. Will selvedge somehow get in the way of it or how would a tailor go about it?

>> No.8521007

>>8520970
Most tailors worth their salt should be able to modify raw denim as easy as they do regular denim. the thickness of the denim would be the only obstacle, and that only becomes a problem at 21+oz.

when you go to your tailor, tell them to "taper the pants from the inseam". this means that they will preserve the selvedge line. If your tailor refuses to do that/doesn't know how to do that, go to a different tailor, unless you don't care that they get rid of the selvedge.

>> No.8521061
File: 72 KB, 940x700, 1405652247936.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8521061

Can we get some blue jeans inspo?
Got a pair of Petit Standards that I never wear, I want to get some use out of them.

>> No.8521096

>>8521061
they go with litterally anything

>> No.8521168
File: 207 KB, 608x1500, SrPaJBo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8521168

>>8521096
yeah pretty much, but here

>> No.8521292

I've never bought raw denim and I've never looked into it at all. What are the supposed benefits of raw denim over cooked denim? Some posts here say that they last longer and are made better, but I have non-raw selvedge jeans that I've been wearing for 5+ years and aren't falling apart at all. And I paid less than $180 for them.

>> No.8521373

>>8521292
Raw denim simply hasn't been faded, distressed, or otherwise altered before being sold to you. It used to be the only way to buy denim. So, the benefit? Eventually, after it begins to fade, the fades are actually in the right spots instead of where some designer decided they should be.

>> No.8521375

Anyone have good place for Grey raws? Any inspo? Thanks in advance.

>> No.8521381

>>8521373
Why not just buy unfaded jeans that aren't a pain in the ass to break in/own? That's what I do.

>> No.8521383

>>8521373
but i can buy jeans without the extra added things already

>> No.8521428

>>8521381
But they're not a pain in the ass to break in or own. Anybody who treats them different from any other jeans doesn't understand just what it is they've purchased: denim. Also, they're only stiff if you don't soak/wash out the starch. You can buy a one-wash if you want that part done for you.

>> No.8521445

>>8521292
>>8521381
>>8521383
Raw selvedge denim, in terms of quality and durability, is exactly the same as washed selvedge denim. the fact that it is tightly woven selvedge denim, and not projectile loomed mall denim, is the reason why it lasts so long.

Raw denim vs Washed denim is simply a matter of preference. most people who buy raw denim want their denim to conform to their body for a perfect fit(which is the benefit of unsanforized denim) or have more irregularities such as slub, nep, and vertical falling when it fades. Washed denim is much more uniform and in my opinon, boring than raw denim.

Additionally, many companies that only make raw denim have unique features on their jeans such as different weft coloring, cotton blends, and weaving processes that make their jeans different from the rest of the crowd. those are the kind of things that i want in my jeans, hence why I am willing to pay extra money for raw.

>> No.8521510

>>8517240
>http://scout.rawrdenim.com/
This site needs to be in the sticky.

>> No.8523006
File: 375 KB, 1000x1294, nudies2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8523006

>raw denim

>> No.8523211

Any opinions on the quality of Unbranded jeans?

>> No.8523231

>>8523006
Wow, you really like raw denim...

>> No.8523259

>>8523211
Decent, the fits are ass if you're skinny though.

>> No.8523305

>>8523259
which raws are good for skeletons

>> No.8523313

>>8523305
And to add onto his question, which raws are good for lifters

>> No.8523738
File: 121 KB, 771x960, jawnz.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8523738

>>8523305
For under 200 APC Petit standard are probably your go to since they come in all sizes, remember to size down 2-3 for your preferred fit though.. United Stock Dried Goods "Slight Fit" is good as well for size 30 true waist and up (their size 28 measures like 30"-31" around the waist). You can get Japan Blue tight fits from certain rakuten for ~130 USD free shipping too. These are all about as skinny you can go for 100% cotton denim, this matters since you wont get high contrast fades with stretch denim.

>>8523313
Look for tapered fits, there's tons out there since most raw jawns enthusiasts aren't the skinny skeleton type. N&F Weird guy is probably the most well known, and you can find them for sale for under 90 USD. If you're in the UK or yurop look for Edwin ED-55 relaxed tapered jeans or Han Kjobenhavn tapered fits. There are so many tapered fits out there though these are the only ones I've had experience with.

>> No.8523789

Let's assume there is an anon who is a college student. This person is interested in raw denim but is unbelievably tight on cash. What would be the absolute cheapest pair of raws to experiment on, to see if said student enjoyed the raw experiment?

>> No.8523912

>>8523789
Levi's 501 shrink to fit