/fa/ - Fashion - #15563942

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/sprezzatura/ - Mediterranean and Menswear General Anonymous Mon Sep 14 07:13:48 2020 No.15563942 [Reply] [Original]

This thread is for the well dressed man and those seeking to improve their dress by exploring colors, patterns, textures and other styles while appearing more mature, elegant and refined.
>What is “sprezzatura”?
Required viewing: https://youtu.be/_QG4lTMjWtY [Embed]
Required reading: https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2017/02/24/how-obsession-with-sprezzatura-can-kill-the-sprezzatura/
>Do I have to be European to wear this style?
Absolutely not. Anyone can wear this as long as they are confident and don’t care what people think. You should be dressing for yourself, not for others. Is this style more common in Italy and other Mediterranean countries? Absolutely. But you could wear this wherever you are.
>How is this different than Trad/Ivy/Prep?
Whereas the /TIP/ threads favor classic styles and tailoring, wider fits and more drape, Mediterranean and modern menswear favors slimmer cuts, tailored closer to the body to accentuate and flatter your body. Slim fit is allowed and in many cases encouraged.
>Where should I start?
Start with sport coats and mix and match with trousers. Experiment with colors and patterns. Don’t be afraid of color. This isn’t business style, where bland conformity is the norm. We want to be colorful, and experiment with fabrics. Wear linen, wool, cotton, anything you want.
>Where can I find good inspo to draw from?
https://www.instagram.com/giorgiogiangiulio/
https://www.instagram.com/davidgandy_official/
https://www.instagram.com/carlos_domord/
https://www.instagram.com/parisian_gentleman/
https://www.instagram.com/fadiblanc59/
https://www.instagram.com/fabioattanasio/
https://www.instagram.com/justusf_hansen/
https://www.instagram.com/jcl.84/
https://www.instagram.com/franz_1955/
https://www.instagram.com/danilocarnevale/
https://www.instagram.com/thewomaninatie/
https://www.instagram.com/sonyaglyn/?hl=en

Previous: >>15552401

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 07:17:05 2020 No.15563945 File: 98 KB, 600x800, 1600071124245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15563942 Old one hit the bump limit, will repost the safari jacket inspo

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 07:19:27 2020 No.15563949 File: 90 KB, 1080x810, 1600071059300.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15563942

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 07:33:18 2020 No.15563968 File: 753 KB, 1810x3360, 14-09.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Today, patterns. >>15563945 Definitely will cop one for summer. How are the shoulders constructed on these?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 07:54:24 2020 No.15563994 >>15563968 The horizontally striped tie looks better with it, the other one is very noisy. Judging from these pictures I think that they all have either no padding or a very light padding in the shoulder, but maybe a roll under the sleeve head?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 08:06:42 2020 No.15564009 >>15563968 Got some more examples from here, they look unstructured with a shirt shoulder. https://journal.styleforum.net/the-safari-jacket-as-modern-tailoring/

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 08:07:17 2020 No.15564010 File: 261 KB, 960x1280, 14-shoes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15563994 Unfortunately that's the back side. Kinda ended up sticking out a bit much in that photo. >>15564009 Great references! Thanks!

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 08:18:40 2020 No.15564025 >>15564010 The front still goes well with the shirt! Yeah, I need Infos on safari jackets anyway, they are on my list, too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 08:32:36 2020 No.15564044 Ideal jacket length from neck hem to the bottom of the jacket? I have some jackets at 29 inches, some older ones at close to 32 and I just think the longer ones make me look bad.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 08:43:48 2020 No.15564057 File: 210 KB, 883x1168, 1599918110065.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15563942 i wish OP would sprezzatura all over my face! can we just have a thread about him? pic related

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 09:11:49 2020 No.15564118 >>15564044 This depends on your height dude. Just make sure it covers your ass, and that the button it point is in the middle of the jacket on your natural waistline.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:10:00 2020 No.15564331 File: 404 KB, 1200x934, safari1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Old commercial

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:11:13 2020 No.15564335 File: 192 KB, 466x618, safari2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15564331 Leather appears to be an option, too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:12:14 2020 No.15564340 >>15564118 Average height but a longer torso so a jacket that goes passed my ass seems a little long but it appears that is the traditional fit.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:12:23 2020 No.15564341 File: 77 KB, 500x563, safari3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15564335 Doesn't always have to be khaki or mint color

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:13:33 2020 No.15564346 File: 196 KB, 876x1231, safari4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15564341 Last one

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 11:17:29 2020 No.15564354

>>15563968
Very nice as usual.

>>15564010
I like all the textures

>>15564331
How old is this? $115 for the jacket is pretty expensive if it's the 60s or so.

Doesn't the jacket start at 34 inch chest??? And max 46? That's how you know it's old.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 11:18:42 2020 No.15564358 >>15564341 This is a much more versatile color imo, you really have to know what you're doing for a full khaki fit without it looking like a costume.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:20:04 2020 No.15564360 >>15564354 >Doesn't the jacket start at 34 inch chest??? And max 46? That's how you know it's old. Even more telling is that the safari pants don't go above a 38" waist. That's corpulent by pre-80s standards.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:21:06 2020 No.15564366 >>15564335 This guy looks like a fuckin' Polo ad.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 11:22:19 2020 No.15564370 >>15564360 Yeah that's crazy, I think they call 38 "average" now..

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:34:19 2020 No.15564386 >>15564057 ayo leave that little tippa alone

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:37:27 2020 No.15564398 >>15564370 https://www.npr.org/2014/07/25/332641840/the-average-american-man-is-too-big-for-his-britches I got a laugh out of this. It helps explains why low rise pants are popular. These poor bastards all wear their waist under their guts

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:39:37 2020 No.15564400 >>15564366 Yep, I guess that's the actual source

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 11:42:51 2020 No.15564404

>>15564398
Haha yeah I have seen something such as this before, I've noticed for a long time men do not wear pants on their waist, they hang their gut, their real waist over the top of their pants. It's why men who are 40 think they have the same waist they did when they were 18.

I have also noticed when I get new pants, they are very generous in size. I've picked up pants from the 90s, maybe even 80s and they are pretty true to actual waist size.

We are just living in a big lie. It's like when women raise the "average" dress size and then think they're average sized. OR when they talk about Marilyn Monroe being "curvy" and they use the famous pictures of her on a beach to prove it. There is a big part that they're unaware of with those pics though... she's pregnant in them... At the other times she was skinny and petite. It's all lies again.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:45:22 2020 No.15564409

>>15564354
Cheers.
>>15564370
>>15564398
We've discussed exactly this phenomenon in previous threads. Even with the bigger pants sizes the rises are also brokenly low.

There is not much more subtly denigrating in life than wearing trousers that don't fit properly.

>https://www.npr.org/2014/07/17/326175817/the-modern-american-man-charted
This is also deeply tragic.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:50:57 2020 No.15564419 File: 213 KB, 1154x580, m_5f1e3395446e5914d224ed42.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Left or right? Left is tweed, right is cotton 70s vintage. Both are about the same price $35

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:51:45 2020 No.15564422 >>15564419 right.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:52:21 2020 No.15564424 >>15564419 Left you lucky bastard. 35 for tweed is crazy good

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:53:29 2020 No.15564429 >>15564419 That entirely depends on whether you want a safari jacket or a tweed shooting coat, doesn't it?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:54:07 2020 No.15564431 >>15564419 At those prices you should get both Tweed lapel is slim as can be but it looks nice overall.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:55:49 2020 No.15564439 >>15564419 Right looks better, the double breast pocket look is essential imo and tweed would be hot in the summer

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:58:06 2020 No.15564444

>>15564419
That tweed coat doesn't look worth a nickel to me. The needle-thin lapels, unlined sack construction, muddy check pattern and above all the weird, quasi-belted design suggest to me that it's a low-quality coat from the nadir of menswear, circa-1970s USA.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 11:58:36 2020 No.15564445 >>15564429 Owning both seems redundant and I hate having two of the similar or same things in my wardrobe. >>15564439 The winter season here is longer so tweed would be more practical but I agree about the pockets

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:01:20 2020 No.15564455 >>15564445 They are literally completely different. Different cuts, materials, colors and seasons. The tweed one looks like it has gigantic armholes. I'd be cautious of that.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:01:27 2020 No.15564456

>>15564445
They're not remotely similar, though. Left isn't a safari jacket in any sense, it's an odd take on an English shooting coat. It's made for cool, wet autumn weather, not hot dry weather like the safari coat, and specifically for hunting as opposed to all-purpose fucking around on the veldt and/or in Los Angeles. The mere fact that the pockets look superficially similar because they have flaps isn't enough to make them similar items.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:02:47 2020 No.15564459

>>15564455
>The tweed one looks like it has gigantic armholes.
It probably does, shooting coats without an action back are often built that way so you have room to move your arms. Aesthetic is secondary since it's a practical garment for its time and place of origin.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:03:34 2020 No.15564464 >>15564459 >being this clueless Contrary to popular belief, gigantic armholes restrict motion FAR more than properly tailored, high cut ones.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:05:12 2020 No.15564466 >>15564456 >>15564455 >>15564419 Good points. I'm going with right.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:07:06 2020 No.15564475

>>15564464
If and only if they're constructed properly by a good tailor. There's a reason you never see high cut armholes on OTR jackets. The monstrosity in Anon's pic doesn't look tailored. A jacket with high-cut armholes that don't fit you well will just fuck your shit and shirt up. If high-cut armholes were just baldly superior, why do you think people would ever cut huge ones?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:07:40 2020 No.15564476 File: 131 KB, 580x580, m_5f1e33beefd0e42c4dba1850.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15564444 Good eye. It's a cheap J Crew jacket, the only reason I considered it was for the tweed

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:08:12 2020 No.15564479 >>15563949 i love the visible erection why can't more fashion photography include priapism?!

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:11:53 2020 No.15564488

>>15564475
90% of fast-fashion RTW buyers are utterly clueless about armholes or anything to do with suits at all. They're also all fat, as we established in this thread. For the RTW manufacturer, the objective is to sell jackets which means ensuring they "feel comfortable" when people stand upright and stiff in them like they think they're supposed to do in suits.

There are several examples of great (high end, tailoring focused) RTW which do not have this problem.

>>15564476
Moon is a z-tier mill who's only redeeming quality is geographic. I would much rather go for a higher-end chinese mill over their fabrics.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:12:51 2020 No.15564490

>>15564424
Search Ebay for tweed jackets and make sure to include British results. You have to sift through a lot of Chinese shit, but even without that there's plenty of quality to be had for cheap. You only really get marked up if you insist on Huntsman, Poole, Anderson and the like.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 12:16:05 2020 No.15564499 >>15564488 >Moon is a z-tier mill who's only redeeming quality is geographic Victorian era established Yorkshire tweed mill. A great talking point rather than Chinese stuff and it's still 100% better than any kind of blends.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 12:17:14 2020 No.15564502 >>15564490 There are many in the British market for like 15 dollars even less. 35 is high. The only jackets that command a higher price are Harris tweed but for the name alone.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:19:34 2020 No.15564508

>>15564502
That's what I'm saying. If Anon's happy to pay $35 for a tweed jacket, then give or take the shipping costs he should be able to do very well for himself if he invests an hour in looking carefully at button stances, lapels and any possible moth damage. It only gets tough if you insist on top-shelf tailoring or full tweed suits, which are much rarer.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:22:15 2020 No.15564516 File: 112 KB, 1000x1000, 3092629a0b32a84b9549e70a1c996311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 12:24:43 2020 No.15564520

>>15564508
Yeah, 100% wool/tweed with a good lining from say a retail stores upper range can be easy to find for next to nothing. It will still be better than anything even in the few hundred dollar range you would find new today.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:25:47 2020 No.15564522 >>15564499 You’re correct that it’s superior to any blends. Fuck those completely. There are some great mills out of China which technically far exceed the cheaper European ones.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:25:54 2020 No.15564523 File: 24 KB, 512x384, i_came.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15564516

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 12:30:21 2020 No.15564531 >>15564522 True, there is just enough China stuff already! Guess I just like the stories connected to them, I think there are 1 or 2 Welsh mills left out of 60 or so.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 12:31:59 2020 No.15564535 >>15564531 Blame Globohomo, not china.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Mon Sep 14 12:34:11 2020 No.15564539 >>15564535 Oh I do, same as when the banana boat comes in, I don't blame them, just those who allow it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 13:38:02 2020 No.15564673 >>15564340 I'm the same as you. I'm 5 10 but generally I need a 30inch jacket to cover my bum. I'd prioritise proportions (jacket that reaches half way down your body) over covering your bum.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 13:45:27 2020 No.15564696 >>15564010 Damn, son. My texture boner just ripped my pants a little. Sauce on socks?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 14:37:55 2020 No.15564836 >>15564539 Can you even safely wear basketweave? Trenery, last season collection so no real chance you'll be able to cop.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 14:44:09 2020 No.15564848 File: 3.33 MB, 1141x1703, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] THE CORDUROY UNIT

>>	anon Mon Sep 14 15:14:48 2020 No.15564939 i want wear navy blazer, how I do it

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:25:22 2020 No.15564957

>>15564939
buy one from zara or h&m, go for a super tight fit with a nice high button and slim collar things. make sure it's thin fabric and fused for a sleek look. make sure arms are big so you can move lots. get a blended fabric because theyre more modern

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:33:06 2020 No.15564978 Where can I get some linen or linen blend safari jackets?

>>	anon Mon Sep 14 15:33:29 2020 No.15564981 i want wear navy blazer, how I do it

>>	anon Mon Sep 14 15:34:43 2020 No.15564982 >>15564957 I looking for navy one as anon bought military formal one before

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:35:08 2020 No.15564983 >>15564978 Likely you'll have to go bespoke or at worst a tailoring house for fancy blends. Stick with cotton options if you want it on the cheap. >>15564981 ask /tip/ or do what >>15564957 says

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:36:28 2020 No.15564989
File: 912 KB, 1500x1500, htam14.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15558074
Trousers project day 12
Attached the waistband and noticed that the fly looked strange which delayed me quite a bit. Removed the left part of the zipper and opened the front seam, attached it again and now it looks better but not perfect.
Finally back to the waistband: Someone wanted to know how it is constructed. The outer fabric is sewn on upside down, then interlining is added, this can still be done by machine. Next, the fabric is folded over and ironed and finally fastened on the back side of the interlining.

Time spent:
1h - attaching waistband and interlining, ironing
3h - opening and correcting fly

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:37:34 2020 No.15564994 >>15564989 Thank you for posting this great content. How big are you going on the waistband? Go big! It's so much more comfortable. I've had some trouble with my fly not sitting straight on some pants. Can you show any photos of that?

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:39:21 2020 No.15564998
File: 873 KB, 1500x1500, htam15.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15564989
Detail of the fabric folded over and to the backside, then fastened with sloppy cross stitch after. Decided to do the rest tomorrow with the nerve for more accurate stitches.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:40:14 2020 No.15565002 >>15564998 You're not going to fuse that, right?

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:44:01 2020 No.15565012

>>15564994
The waistband is 3.5cm high with a mid rise, certainly a higher rise than what I can get at a store. I'll make some comparison pictures once they are done.

>I've had some trouble with my fly not sitting straight on some pants. Can you show any photos of that?
I took photos of how it looked before, can show something of how it looks now. What is the problem in your case? Does the top side of the fly pull to the left and reveal the zipper/buttons or is it at an angle?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:46:11 2020 No.15565018 >>15565012 >3.5cm That's pretty small, have you ever tried a taller waistband? The nearest pleat on the non-opening side of the fly tends to sit quite forward/open.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:46:50 2020 No.15565020 >>15565002 No, that's a relatively stiff cotton fabric, not a fusible interlining. Linen is also an option for the waistband.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:52:22 2020 No.15565038 File: 96 KB, 660x331, pleats.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565018 Never tried a taller waistband. If pic related is your problem: it was solved by folding the pleats backwards.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:56:04 2020 No.15565045
File: 333 KB, 970x1218, PLEATGOD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15565038
Yeah, that's exactly right. I do prefer the look of forward pleats instead of reverse. You can see even this PLEAT GOD has the same issue.

I've been solving it by using box pleats instead, but I was wondering if there's an alteration or fix to get the forward pleats to sit right.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:58:14 2020 No.15565053 File: 334 KB, 1080x1350, safari.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 15:59:37 2020 No.15565061 File: 180 KB, 1080x1350, pleats.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565045

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:00:41 2020 No.15565066 File: 139 KB, 1080x1080, 118007503_322717738925362_6874713128175651339_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:01:47 2020 No.15565070 File: 231 KB, 1080x1080, 117117434_789205771884826_2566907539002936257_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Pleat perfection.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:02:51 2020 No.15565073 File: 191 KB, 1080x1350, 102865085_709287906473177_5093557774947252535_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565053

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:03:05 2020 No.15565075 >>15565045 What are box pleats?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:04:25 2020 No.15565079 File: 617 KB, 1918x1918, v-pleats-and-details.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565075 Aka v-pleats.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:05:38 2020 No.15565084 File: 100 KB, 1080x1080, safari2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565073

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:05:46 2020 No.15565085 >>15565070 This guy's proportions are SO weird.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:07:19 2020 No.15565088 File: 59 KB, 470x741, 7BiBNo3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565070 He looks like a fashion illustration from the 30s (body wise))

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:07:27 2020 No.15565089 >>15565085 Asian. He's a twig, but the clothes are amazing.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:33:29 2020 No.15565151
File: 256 KB, 902x1792, 3B2E72FE-12A3-4AF4-910C-D0ABFE957763.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15563942
i am a poor fag trying to style an overcoat i was recently given. tried first as pic related, bit more TIP but also have pics with a red button up with and without a tie, and with a pair of slimmer black pants ive considered. thoughts? what tie if any?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:52:37 2020 No.15565192 File: 178 KB, 1200x1600, mt08-county-corduroy-trousers-conker-brown.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Anyone have experience with Peter Christian?

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:53:33 2020 No.15565195 >>15564057 I'm not OP though

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:53:39 2020 No.15565197 >>15564335 The panther trialmaster from Belstaff is a good choice.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 16:57:51 2020 No.15565205

>>15565079
thats a nice look desu

>>15565073
hello king crimson

>>15564848
the fat controller aesthetic isnt a bad one desu, especially with a cigar.

>>15564989
>>15564998
may i ask what youre doing there, anon?

>>15565197
just dont attempt to use them as real bike jackets, i saw someone rather fucked up looking who didnt use proper gear today and came off.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 17:07:32 2020 No.15565233 >>15565151 Can you take a photograph with the coat done up more closely cropped? We need to assess the fit before we can make any recs. Definitely looks too big there.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 17:09:55 2020 No.15565244 >>15565205 Oh yea, if you're actually going riding you should get some real kit.

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 18:17:35 2020 No.15565396 File: 3.17 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15565233 here’s just the coat, it’s definitely a bit large but also the pic isn’t great. if you mean me in it give me a sec

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 18:17:55 2020 No.15565398 File: 78 KB, 667x1000, https___i.pinimg.com_originals_9b_01_fe_9b01fe5b97921eed434055e691f341b6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] mark cho should be inspo for any short man

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 18:40:56 2020 No.15565456 >>15564989 That fabric looks like wrapping paper

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 20:45:48 2020 No.15565689
File: 65 KB, 794x520, il_794xN.2325587956_8qfr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Cop or not? It's vintage Burberry, 95% wool 5% cashmere for $50. My only hangup is that it's a 3 button. There's also a white rayon/linen blend Burberry blazer I plan on getting but it's a 2 button.

Anonymous Mon Sep 14 22:14:51 2020 No.15565907
File: 384 KB, 503x504, bag.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15565689
I say cop

sprezz hasn't really dictated its view on bags yet but I think I'll get some good responses to this question.

been looking for a bag because I don't really like to wear backpacks and think they look interncore with a coat and tie. graduate student in a college town so I'm looking to rock the messenger bag instead. I know a chic briefcase is probably peak sprezz but:

>pic related
>$50
>cop or not

>>	Anonymous Mon Sep 14 22:20:50 2020 No.15565919 >>15565689 cop >>15565907 Depends on the quality. It looks good. You want to check on the durability of the sewing especially where the leather connects to the bag and the base, both inside and out.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 01:33:50 2020 No.15566191

>>15565205
In one of the previous threads I asked around if anyone is interested in seeing how trousers are made, because I am sewing my own. This is daily update and in the end I'll post a summary of the project along with answers to the questions that were asked frequently.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:11:11 2020 No.15566253 >>15565070 >Pleat perfection Cringe collection

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:28:20 2020 No.15566281 File: 344 KB, 381x980, AAA53683-25F8-4E5B-938A-24615BF1CF81.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] How can I make this better?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:28:22 2020 No.15566282 >>15566253 uh oh. stiiinky. POOOp hahah poop funnyyy. fuNny PooP

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:33:14 2020 No.15566291 >>15566281 leather belt and trousers that don’t hug your legs so tightly

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:37:09 2020 No.15566295 >>15565088 That is unironically the end goal.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:38:54 2020 No.15566297

>>15566281
Belt cuts you in half visually, it is quite stark on the white pants.
Tan of the belt and shows seems off in that outfit. A darker brown pair of shoes would look much better.
main thing is the belt. It really stands out. Consider going beltless or maybe a white belt to seamlessly blend in.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:41:20 2020 No.15566304 >>15566191 Nice.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 02:59:12 2020 No.15566324 >>15565689 Cop if it fits you. Ask for shoulder, length and arm length from the seller.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 03:20:30 2020 No.15566343 >>15563942 someone explain to this brainlet why tip are so anal about adhering to clothing rules they create? is it just to create a sense of belonging and to have visual cues to distinguish their in-group vs. out-group?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 03:35:21 2020 No.15566360 >>15566343 tip is the ultimate form of menswear you little fuck. Go suck an itiallian espezzeo dick WHORE slim fit fuck

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 04:21:08 2020 No.15566428 >>15566343 It's unironically literally autism. Think of the kid organizing his trains, same idea applied to fashion. The objective is to follow rules more than look nice. I would bet /sprezz/ has sex on more than a 10:1 ratio to them.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 04:22:06 2020 No.15566429 >>15566343 No idea, it's really ironic because ivy and prep are a form of rebellion of students against the strict clothing rules that their fathers adhered to.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 04:30:42 2020 No.15566438 >>15566428 >>15566429 appreciate your explanation. couldn’t find the words to express why I found tip’s strict rule rigidity unappealing.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 04:33:19 2020 No.15566440 >>15566343 Those that those don’t know where they came from don’t not where they’re going. Turning your back against traditional dress in favour of hedonaatic invisidual dress is selfish.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 05:54:14 2020 No.15566513

>>15566440
Disparaging people and telling them they're wrong is a deeply ineffective strategy for achieving your goals.

If you spent the time to actually engage with /sprezz/ you'd find that we share the same fundamentals as /tip/ on menswear styling. Traditional proportions are close to fucking perfect, so it's with deep reverence for them that we do our thing. At the same time, we acknowledge that we dress this way because it makes us happy and improves our interactions with others, not because of a secret membership to an exclusive club.

Menswear is both dying and in a revival. Both /sprezz/ and /tip/ are killing it, but the sense the term is used couldn't differ more between them.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 06:10:09 2020 No.15566524 [DELETED]

>>15566360
You're time is short. The day of hairy chests protruding from half buttoned dress shirts roaming the earth grows nearer. Blazers with ivy league crests will be trampled upon by feet in no show socks and half strapped monk straps. The great Anglo-Italian stylistic unification is coming. Preppies will not survive.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 06:15:33 2020 No.15566529

>>15566360
Your time is short. The day of hairy chests protruding from half buttoned dress shirts roaming the earth grows nearer. Blazers with ivy league crests will be trampled upon by feet in no show socks and half strapped monk straps. The great Anglo-Italian stylistic unification is coming. Preppies will not survive.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 06:17:31 2020 No.15566533

>>15566281
The colours are good. Like the chelsea boots, but you might be better served with loafers for this fit. Pants are a bit too tight and causing bunching around the knees. You can have slim cut pants that don't do that. You're not a teenager nor a twink so go for a slightly more relaxed fit. As other anons have said, the belt sucks. Drop it or go with a matching colour. Canvas is cool, just not that one with that fit. Lastly, get a normal shirt and roll up the sleeves instead for a more mature, particularly /sprezz/ look. Short sleeves risk looking very schoolboy.

Which country are you from?

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:01:44 2020 No.15566593

I'm very fucking close to taking the MTM pill. I've asked in the tailor shop where I get my stuff altered and a pair of trousers from VBC flannel or cav twill should be about the same price as Natalino's with shipping and hemming. What's more, they'd have a chance of fitting my skelly glutes properly.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:17:28 2020 No.15566621 >>15566593 Isn't that the bespoke pill then?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:23:45 2020 No.15566630 >>15566593 That's the bespoke pill. You'll never ever regret it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:40:50 2020 No.15566658 >>15566291 >>15566297 belts gone, plus I got a pair of brown shoes I can switch out, cheers >>15566533 appreciate the honest feedback. I'll organise some proper pants. I live in Australia

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:42:12 2020 No.15566660 >>15566281 Boots out. Tight pants never with a shirt tucked in, also change it for a regular cut shirt (to counter the tightness of the pants) with long sleeves with a couple of rolls up. For the shoes, use a espadrilles, loafers or derby

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:45:32 2020 No.15566664 >>15566191 thanks anon, that would be really nice.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:52:03 2020 No.15566670 >>15566658 No problem. Nice to see some fits posted from someone else in the Southern hemisphere here. Spring can't come soon enough.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 07:57:11 2020 No.15566681 >>15566621 >>15566630 They don't draft a pattern from scratch, they'll modify an existing one. I think that makes it made to measure, doesn't it?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:01:30 2020 No.15566687 >>15566681 It's a very blurry line. if you have the opportunity to specify all details and construction requirements, I'd call it bespoke.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:21:47 2020 No.15566704

>>15566681
>>15566687
Blurry line indeed. From what I read in books some tailors construct the patterns individually for the customer, others create a set of say five average patterns like a RTW brand would and know where to adjust those to the individual measurements. In the end you wouldn't know which of the methods your tailor used, but you still do fittings etc.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:26:14 2020 No.15566716

>>15566529
>The great Anglo-Italian stylistic unification
dangerously based
>darts forcibly sown into sack cut jackets at gunpoint
>button down collars ripped off
>chest pockets ripped off
>loafers with beefrolls burnt in pyres
>state-subisidised pick stitching

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:31:13 2020 No.15566723 File: 14 KB, 899x226, pants delivery.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] pants soon

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:34:52 2020 No.15566733 >american 'menswear'

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:37:43 2020 No.15566735 >>15566723 What did you cop?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:43:26 2020 No.15566745 >>15566704 Yeah, as soon as there's intermediate fittings it's bespoke.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 08:59:48 2020 No.15566768
File: 94 KB, 709x621, pantsedit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15566735
these thingies, looking forward to something a little more comfortable than my current pants, whos waistbands and buttons are currently being abused by a stomach thats suffered quite a bit over this year and a newly acquired social life centered around regular visits to the pub.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:10:55 2020 No.15566777

>>15566745
Not necessarily. i just ordered a tweed jacket for winter through a tailor and went MTM. There is a basting and fitting in a few week,s then in a few more it will be completed.
Bespoke isn't about the number of fittings so much as the care and craft that goes into the garment. Lots of hand sewing, especially in the details, and a completely customized fit are the hallmarks to me.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:14:36 2020 No.15566783 >>15566768 Great value. Post some fits with them when they arrive.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:18:45 2020 No.15566789 >>15566716 lol this post is good and really highlights the differences, whenever I see someone asking for general dressing advice in TIP and they are not in the USA, I cringe. Everything you listed really is so American.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:19:14 2020 No.15566793 >>15566768 Damn, looks good. Might have to get in on this. What's the material?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:33:49 2020 No.15566820 >>15566789 I like beefrolls

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:40:51 2020 No.15566830 File: 198 KB, 1901x913, wider.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15566820

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 09:48:30 2020 No.15566843 >>15566783 will do, anon. >>15566793 60/40 wool poly so the army/navy can wash them easier. heard mixed things but japanese youtube milsurp guys seem to like em so who knows. ill post some bits when i get em tomorrow.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 10:21:11 2020 No.15566914

>>15565689
Don't cop. People see the name and think it's a good buy, but think of it in practical terms. This is why if something has a nice lining and is 100% tweed/wool I choose that over the name if it is more practical.

That style of color is very 70s or so and you're going to be pairing it with dark grey or browns. So you're really looking at Autumn/Winter fits with it and that whole color scheme is very hard to not make it look like some English country fit. It's going to be somewhat TIP too.

While I don't mind 3 buttons, I def prefer them on some light blue Summer jacket or something similar. The 3 buttons, paired with the color all adds to a dated look unless you're a super confident dresser.

I think people should start and learn with basic solid things and once they master them, move onto more adventurous things.

>There's also a white rayon/linen blend Burberry blazer I plan on getting but it's a 2 button.

Sounds 100% better.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 10:35:27 2020 No.15566956 >>15565088 Looks vaguely 70’s

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 10:39:31 2020 No.15566959 >>15566768 >108 cm waist

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 11:16:06 2020 No.15567020 File: 180 KB, 700x941, FvEucVs.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15566959 what can i say, i like my guys big

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 11:43:53 2020 No.15567083 File: 631 KB, 2159x3522, 15-09.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] It's cold today.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 12:38:00 2020 No.15567212 >>15567083 Very nice, I really like the look of wool flannel pants but I bet they're maybe not so comfy and can be stiff

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 12:41:23 2020 No.15567216 >>15566529 my chest “hair” is so sparse you can count them all on a human hand missing three fingers.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:19:28 2020 No.15567289
File: 196 KB, 1276x956, 70CC2236-DEB7-44C0-A114-42F3F5F26F6E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15567212
Thanks, but you couldn’t be more wrong about the feel. They are so fucking soft and comfy. It’s like wearing a tracksuit. Super Stretchy due to the weave and feels great unlined. A bit like tweed but without the scratchy feel.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:29:53 2020 No.15567315 >>15567083 personally not a fan of your pairing suede chelseas. a smooth leather booth or shoe would be lovely. also, what is that you’re holding?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:33:16 2020 No.15567324 >>15567315 It’s a cat. Still a little limited on shoes here - what colour would you suggest?

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 13:35:01 2020 No.15567329 >>15567289 >It’s like wearing a tracksuit Oh true never thought of it like that. I just hate heavy stiff pants which is what puts me off heavy wool flannels a lot of the time.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:35:05 2020 No.15567331

>>15567083
that is a lovely outfit, i wish i could say we had such agreeable weather.

>>15567289
those are goals desu, tfw no comfy flannel pants

if i may ask, how is the wear and tear on them? ive noticed my RL corduroys, while eternally comfy, are looking a little worn and faded but i have worn them a fuckload in the year or so ive had them.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:37:06 2020 No.15567338

Thoughts on linen ties? Seen a nice 100% made in Italy but I don't know if I would be adding to my wardrobe just for the novelty of it. I don't think their are any benefits for it, and you risk it creasing while wearing it. I have silk, cotton and wool/wool know, never linen.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:39:28 2020 No.15567351 File: 1.16 MB, 2592x1944, IMG_20200915_183848.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15567289 Fellow flannel bro I salute you.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 13:41:12 2020 No.15567354 >>15567351 Based. Is that Lolita that you're reading?

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:44:20 2020 No.15567361

>>15567338
Big meh. Linen can shine and look kinda crap. I’d go with cotton or a shantung silk for summer generally. Blends are also great.

>>15567331
They’re pretty new, only got them this season, but they’re holding up well. No objections so far. Just go REALLY THICK for warmth and durability.

>>15567351
Based and cuffpilled. Fabric on my pants was just too thick to reasonably cuff.

>>15567329
There’s a big difference between true flannels and worsted flannels. The latter sucks and is still stiff.

>>15567354
I’d bet against that. But the writing is reminiscent of nobokov.

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 13:50:51 2020 No.15567379
File: 108 KB, 640x640, 134AD503-F175-4737-B0E1-81EEA892878A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15567324
Any boot/shoe in navy, burgundy, or black (personally, love to have a grey flannel waistcoat and trousers like yours to wear with my favourite boots, sans harness)

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 15:16:58 2020 No.15567627 >>15567361 how do you tell the difference between worsted and true if youre uninitiated to the world of flannel? i tend to try and only buy stuff thats snipeable for a good price or is discounted heavily.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 16:42:05 2020 No.15567847 File: 1010 KB, 2592x1944, IMG_20200915_213259.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Picked up this nice navy blazer but it's got this annoying fold in the lapel from where I think it was folded. What should I do?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 16:43:09 2020 No.15567851 >>15567354 For whom the bell tolls. I'd give it a light

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 16:44:10 2020 No.15567856 >>15567851 6/10

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:07:04 2020 No.15567929 >>15567847 Steam it

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:07:53 2020 No.15567933

>>15567627
Worsted is still worsted. It just has a fuzzy surface. Flannel is super stretchy. To make it last better, go for SUPER THICC min 400gsm flannel. Light-medium Overcoat fabrics being the best bet as those are still within historical suiting thicknesses.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 17:10:30 2020 No.15567943 >>15567851 Aww no. But I did cheat, I saw you with an image yesterday with a book and saw "Dolores" wrote on it so took a shot at Lolita.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:18:57 2020 No.15567972 >>15567847 Just wear it lmao. Nobody will notice. Steam it if you have to.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:35:59 2020 No.15568028 >>15567972 Yeah you're right. It's nothing.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:36:51 2020 No.15568030 What shirt type should I go for if I want a nice roll and a softer collar to seem more relaxed? No button downs please, (UK).

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:41:55 2020 No.15568041
File: 31 KB, 460x689, collar.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15568030
Rolls in general look kinda crap in practice because they end up in all sorts of fuckery over suit jackets. If you have infinite money, Marol does a wonderful one-piece collar. Otherwise try to find the style from a cheaper house.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:43:00 2020 No.15568047 File: 461 KB, 650x937, collar-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15568041 Dumping one piece collars

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:44:03 2020 No.15568048 File: 39 KB, 480x480, one-piece-collar-blazer2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15568047

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:45:06 2020 No.15568051 File: 59 KB, 768x1143, MAROL-HOLIDAY-COLLAR-768x1143.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15568048

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:45:45 2020 No.15568055 >>15567379 W2c pants

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:46:14 2020 No.15568057 File: 44 KB, 640x640, 2ef503f12cd38728aa4661abce65cbfd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15568051

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:48:39 2020 No.15568062 File: 163 KB, 1080x1350, 6a9228210be6651b2881d8985f415771.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15568057

Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:56:34 2020 No.15568076

>>15568062
Having posted all of these delightful rolls, an actual practical solution especially if you like the second button undone on your shirt is to just use reasonably tall semi-spread collar and shove collar bones in it. You'll get the collapsed roll on the inside as the collar is pulled apart.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 17:57:01 2020 No.15568077
File: 50 KB, 600x400, crazy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>watch this movie years ago
>like the goose look
>re-watch it again and find steve carell looks superior

Is it because Goose had slim fit items and wears actual suits most of the time and Carrell has a more casual regular fitted look?

Never see something such as a suede blazer posted here but I love the texture it adds

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 17:58:05 2020 No.15568081 >>15568077 post more

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 18:01:43 2020 No.15568087
File: 53 KB, 600x900, crazy goose.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15568081
Well I suppose I am focusing on his fit in that pic, Goose, while adventurous with his colors, most seem to be just the regular open shirt suit combo. A bit boring.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 18:05:12 2020 No.15568094
File: 702 KB, 1094x528, crazy2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Like here, Goose has put on a suit. It's that obvious. He has put ion a suit to look smart. While Carrell comes across as naturally just throwing some pieces together.

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 18:11:27 2020 No.15568107 >>15568087 Goose is GQ Carrell is ?

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 18:12:55 2020 No.15568114 >>15568087 >pocket flaps are taller than lapels are wide

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 18:21:29 2020 No.15568131 >>15568087 buttoning point is INSANELY high

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 18:30:51 2020 No.15568151 >>15568131 low angle shot. It's about par for today's slim suits.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 18:31:43 2020 No.15568156 >>15568107 You tell me! I like his fit though. >>15568114 >>15568131 Yeah haha, which is why I have shifted my opinion.

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Tue Sep 15 18:35:43 2020 No.15568168 File: 180 KB, 864x1340, crazy3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] The famed green suit, didn't realize it had patch pockets

>>	Anonymous Tue Sep 15 19:33:56 2020 No.15568304 >>15568168 This looks so dated now. I can't stand the leather bits.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 03:35:06 2020 No.15569161

>>15566343
>>15566513
>If you spent the time to actually engage with /sprezz/ you'd find that we share the same fundamentals as /tip/ on menswear styling

this.

most people who aren't autists transcend their chosen intro specialty after a while and learn to just appreciate and utilize quality menswear in all its forms.

As for the ivy/tip gatekeeping, I actually think it's a little warranted. Think about the state of normie menswear right now. It's that way because there are no rules, and the rampant /r/mfa attitude of "do what makes you happy :)". In a way, strictly adhering to style rules is a form of rebellion against the gen-x supremacy of "slim fit blazer and skinny jeans". With both sprezz and ivy, details are king. If you don't gatekeep the details at least a little bit, the entire genre falls apart and your niche space becomes yet another one subverted by mystery meat fits put together by overly-compromising, aesthetically neutered proles.

It's frustrating trying to discuss underrepresented aspects of a largely culturally-transmitted clothing genre while babysitting the egos of boring uniqlo-wearers who wander into the thread and get shat on. It's why on /fit/ you will just get told "fuck off and read the sticky" for asking repetitive noob questions.

Note that I'm not apologizing for the losers who take the 'details matter' thing and start to apply to actual lifestyle/heritage characteristics, like needing to have gone to the right school. That's larp territory. But if you can't grasp that mallcore skinny fit isn't appropriate, and that the roll of a collar matters, you can't go crying "muhh rules... muh gatekeeping". I don't have sympathy, and most /sprezz/ posters will be unsympathetic too, despite the novice's belief that they're incompatible styles.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 03:55:54 2020 No.15569183 >>15567933 that does sound good. got any images i can use for reference, and any names to keep an eye open for a more thrift oriented fella like myself?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 04:10:33 2020 No.15569198 >>15563942 >those wrinkles

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 05:41:49 2020 No.15569303 >>15569183 https://putthison.com/worsted-vs-woolen-flannels-i-love-wool-flannel/

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 05:43:56 2020 No.15569305 >>15569303 Also this: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/12/the-guide-to-flannel.html

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 06:04:52 2020 No.15569323

>>15567847
The people yelling you to steam it are wrong. You should never steam wool. The fabric was expanded and shrunk in places using an iron to pull the fabric fibers. Steam will reset this. See this video for a proper way to press a jacket:
https://youtu.be/maQ-f32XQGY

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 06:18:31 2020 No.15569339 >>15569323 >You should never steam wool unless youre trying to get creases out i assume?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 06:24:58 2020 No.15569346 >>15569303 >>15569305 thank you very much for these, although i have to say reading the points on shining does make me nervous with them.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 06:58:19 2020 No.15569383

>>15569346
Don't get it as your first or first of several suits. You'll notice I don't actually have a matching jacket for the flannel set, just trousers and waistcoat, which together cost less than a jacket would. Bespoke for roughly 75 EUR each. The joys of third world labour.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:17:57 2020 No.15569410

>>15569383
i basically dont have a reason to really own any suit desu, so i currently just buy seperates to experiment with what i like. i still dont own a navy blazer, got my eyes open for one but ive yet to find one thats agreeable to me on ebay and really i could do to sell off some brooks brothers and RL bits i bought in order to fund it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:21:08 2020 No.15569412 >>15569410 I bought a blazer from Spier and Mackay and it's great

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:24:52 2020 No.15569415 >>15569198 Have you ever actually worn clothes before?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:25:59 2020 No.15569418 >>15569410 Just be aware that you generally need 2 days of resting for the fibers to recover, and it's a supremely warm, casual fabric. Difficult to pull off. Start with some decent grey flannel pants; they're a menswear staple.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:26:00 2020 No.15569419 >>15569412 a touch out of my price bracket desu

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:26:44 2020 No.15569420 >>15565192 I just bought some trousers. I compared the measurements to my own. They appear to have a very high rise which is great.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:27:46 2020 No.15569421 >>15569419 Then get something fast fashion that fits well. Discussion is quality is for nerds with deep pockets.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 07:30:48 2020 No.15569423 >>15569421 i much prefer to snipe things at about a tenth of their cost on ebay as they take my fancy. got some nice things that way, some trash too but that happens and it all helps me find out what i really like.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:08:17 2020 No.15569460 File: 65 KB, 690x1280, 3EB52B30-A2E6-417D-9521-1184B7B6FFA2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Rate my ronafit

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:20:44 2020 No.15569477 >>15569410 Navy blazer is overrated anyway

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:22:39 2020 No.15569480 >>15569415 I think he means the legs where it looks as if the pants were folded in half in a box/suitcase. You can see the fold on one side of the crease line and it's negative on the other side

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:23:54 2020 No.15569483 >>15569460 Pretty relaxed, but you're alright, are you?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:40:27 2020 No.15569523 >>15569460 the unshaven beard is troubling.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 08:42:39 2020 No.15569526

>>15569477
i dunno, i think its probably one of the most versatile pieces i could buy at the moment desu. i need a good summer jacket.

>>15569460
>>15569523
letting runa fuck your dress habits is a mistake, anon. the lazier you dress the lazier youll be, and its gonna be an uphill fight to drag yourself out of whatever bad habits set in now.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:00:23 2020 No.15569550

Arghgh I hate the feeling of most materials on my body, they say it's some sensory thing or whatever.

As long as I have a comfy base piece on the rest is fine. So really I need something such as brushed cotton shirts. Not thicker flannel ones but thin brushed cotton.

It's so hard to find them in plain colors instead of the usual "flannel colors" you see. The few I have found are in slim fit!

Anyone know of something similar or different materials with the same feel?

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:03:07 2020 No.15569556

>>15569383
>Bespoke for roughly 75 EUR each.
What makes good pieces expensive is usually the fabric senpai. It is why those weird mtm suits made in Thailand or the Philippines still cost €300. The good mills are all in Europe, so you will need to dish some euros for good textiles.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:05:03 2020 No.15569563 >>15569556 That is incredibly cheap and not expensive

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 09:08:49 2020 No.15569570 >>15569383 >Bespoke for roughly 75 EUR each. The joys of third world labour. Lol oh wow, that's an amazing price. Is that SA anon?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:12:02 2020 No.15569580 >>15568030 Any shirt with an interlined (as opposed to fused) collar will have a better roll and softer look.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:19:32 2020 No.15569603

>>15569563
Yeah. I would rather go to a proper european “celebrity tailor” because I appreciate the culture and the craftsmanship and because it is less likely to get scammed, but the labor of SEA tends to be 1/10 of the price of an european tailor. Arguably the market is overinflated by russian oligarchs, but I can’t get too mad at tailors getting rich.
However, always check the prices of the fabric itself before buying from third world countries. You will often need 5-7 meters of textiles to make a good suit and if the meter of the supposed fabric costs €99 and yet the vendor sells it to you for €400, you can be sure that there is something wrong.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:29:13 2020 No.15569621

>>15566343
They don't, this is just a meme that's shitposted hard in the /tip/ general due to some autist hating the general, I guess he was told his fit was bad or something. I don't even remember the last time anybody unironically claimed that something was "against the rules" in /tip/, as opposed to just saying that something looks like shit.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:34:59 2020 No.15569637

>>15569621
>I don't even remember the last time anybody unironically claimed that something was "against the rules" in /tip/
It isn’t a particularly big transgression, but just 2-3 days ago I asked about wallabees there and someone replied “they are good, but not tip. Get blucher mocs instead”.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:39:42 2020 No.15569647

>>15566681
>I think that makes it made to measure, doesn't it?
Yes, you're correct. This is how all MTM was done until like five years ago, the reason it seems blurry to the other anons is that so much MTM is online now. Those are really more like MTO in one sense. (Mind you, I still think it's reasonable to call those services MTM, but the thing you're thinking of doing is the real, original MTM.)

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:42:39 2020 No.15569655

>>15566745
Absolutely not. Bespoke tailoring is fully hand-sewn on a pattern cut to your personal shape by a professional cutter. The quality difference between this and MTM is an enormous leap, and if you start calling anything you think is nice bespoke you lose the words to talk about that distinction.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:45:33 2020 No.15569668
File: 46 KB, 768x545, colors.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Do you guys abide by this?

I used to dye my hair dark brown and wear a lot of dark colors, especially black. Now I have let my natural blonde out and I tried on a dark blue sports jacket and it looked really good. Even with a long sleeve white polo underneath really casual and fitted well together.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:51:37 2020 No.15569685
File: 1.05 MB, 2993x4319, navy trousers brown blue glen check jacket.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15569621
Ridiculous
Go post a fit that isn't 'Ivy' right now and wait for the dog-piling. Maybe the exact phrase 'against the rules' won't be used but you can bet anything that breaks their rules will be hounded. It isn't about looking good, that's what this thread is for.
To prove me wrong post what you consider to be a great looking suit or fit that isn't navy blazer, button down, chinos and boat shoes. Post a fantastic Neapolitan cut suit or pic related and watch it get torn apart for breaking arbitrary rules. I'll even preempt your defense
>but Neapolitan cut isn't tip
Yes, because tip is a style rigidly defined by its rules. The fits that get praised there, rare though they are, are the blandest, most boring cookie cutter shit imaginable. Completely contrary to the original tip aesthetic which was challenging conventions at the time. Now it is about imitation and emulation without innovation. As has been pointed out in the tip thread itself, the autists on /tip/ would call half the fits in Take Ivy 'not /tip/' solely due to their obsession with rigid rules.
That's what makes /sprezz/ so much more interesting, the only real rule is look good.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:52:15 2020 No.15569688

>>15569603
>Arguably the market is overinflated by russian oligarchs, but I can’t get too mad at tailors getting rich.
It's not. I agree with you in principle about tailors getting rich, but in practice, they simply aren't. Bespoke tailoring is so labor-intensive the guys doing it don't actually make a very good per-hour despite the cost.

This is why before fast fashion most people owned one or two suits of clothing that they wore all the time.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:53:41 2020 No.15569690 >>15569637 So nothing about "the rules" then? There's no point in a /tip/ thread if you don't have some idea of what constitutes TIP, which necessarily means some things aren't TIP.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:55:08 2020 No.15569694

>>15569668
It is a good guideline to go by
RMRS can be a shill at times but he gives really good basic info as an introduction to dressing well. At least he used to, now most of his articles are buzzfeed tier '10 things to make girls like you' lists. His older posts about the basics of fashion, suits, fit, matching etc. are fantastic though.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:55:42 2020 No.15569695

>>15569685
What are you even talking about? Neapolitan cuts are trad as hell. Italian trad is still trad.

>the original tip aesthetic which was challenging conventions at the time
Trad menswear has never been about challenging conventions, trad IS the conventions. Ivy and prep are a louche and playful version respectively but I would hardly call either rebellious, it's not about challenging shit.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:56:43 2020 No.15569698 >>15569668 I abide by this in the sense that all my shirts are white.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:57:55 2020 No.15569701

>>15569685
There used to be a great article somewhere about how suits stopped being fun and experimental, but I can't find it right now. So here's a shittier one:
https://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/fashion/blame-it-on-beau-why-is-menswear-so-boring-these-days-1.848356

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 09:58:46 2020 No.15569705 >>15569695 your aggressive and sarcastic post pretty much is a huge red flag you're from tip and you're doing the same shit again. you guys don't even realize it.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:01:45 2020 No.15569713

>>15569695
That is because you are looking at it through rose-colored glasses. At the time prep and ivy were ways to skirt the rules set by trad and were considered bold.
Post a Neapolitan cut suit on /tip/ right now. Make it simple, pic and something like 'just copped this, how did I do?' You will get ripped apart and, ironically, told to 'go back to your faggy /sprezz/ thread'.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:01:52 2020 No.15569714

>>15569705
I'm not "from" either there or here, I visit both threads and this spergy slapfighting just looks silly to me. In this case the sillines is you deliberately mischaracterizing their style and then trying to bite them for not adhering to your misconception, which would be obvious even if I were a /goofninja/ or /neofolk/ poster.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:06:40 2020 No.15569727 >>15569714 Cool. Still waiting for you to post your Neapolitan suit in /tip/. No rush, I visit both too.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 10:12:47 2020 No.15569740 [DELETED]

>>15569701
>this article
>wrote by sarah maisey

Right away now if an article is wrote by a woman I am going to think there will be some bullshit of left wing revisionist crap in it.

>So outcast did he make such fashion that, in 1940s America, disaffected African-Americans and Hispanic men marked their anger by donning hugely oversized, brightly coloured suits in the so-called Zoot Suit riots. Incidentally, the suits caused so much offence, that predominately white crowds would deliberately slash at the fabric with razor blades.

Anndddd... there it is. I'm going to call bullshit on that. So African Americans wore brightly colored suits in the 1940s because they were fighting against darker colors that a an 18th century guy from England, Beau Brummell made fashionable? YEAH FUCKING RIGHT. Not 1 of them would have even heard of him.

The reality is there suits used a lot of fabric and people were pissed off because of war rationing fabrics but this female article writer has twisted the story to make white people look bad and Africans good when they were in the wrong. Yeah whites were just attacking Africans because they were not wearing dark colored clothing lmao.

At this point if something is wrote by a woman I'm not even going to bother reading it.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 10:14:57 2020 No.15569747

>>15569701
>this article
>wrote by sarah maisey

Right away now if an article is wrote by a woman I am going to think there will be some bullshit or left wing revisionist crap in it.

>So outcast did he make such fashion that, in 1940s America, disaffected African-Americans and Hispanic men marked their anger by donning hugely oversized, brightly coloured suits in the so-called Zoot Suit riots. Incidentally, the suits caused so much offence, that predominately white crowds would deliberately slash at the fabric with razor blades.

Anndddd... there it is. I'm going to call bullshit on that. So African Americans wore brightly colored suits in the 1940s because they were fighting against darker colors that an 18th century guy from England, Beau Brummell made fashionable? YEAH FUCKING RIGHT. Not one of them would have even heard of him.

The reality is their suits used a lot of fabric and people were pissed off because of war rationing fabrics but this female article writer has twisted the story to make white people look bad and Africans good when they were in the wrong. Yeah whites were just attacking Africans because they were not wearing dark colored clothing lmao.

At this point if something is wrote by a woman I'm not even going to bother reading it.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:44:18 2020 No.15569816

>>15569603
>>15569556
It’s flannel. Not going to last forever regardless of how much you spend, and nobody is going to be able to tell anyway.

I have enough suits in expensive worsteds. The flannel is entirely chosen for comfort and ease of wear, neither of which you’re going to have if you’re continuously worrying about messing/damaging the the fragile fabric.

>>15569570
Yeah, it’s crazy.

>>15569483
>>15569523
>>15569526
Will definitely live, thanks for the concern and advice.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:47:07 2020 No.15569820 >>15569701 I still can't find the damn article Here are some other tangentially related articles: https://dieworkwear.com/2017/10/25/transcending-fashion-and-tradition/ https://dieworkwear.com/2018/07/04/the-suit-died-but-for-good-reasons/

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:48:24 2020 No.15569825 >>15569820 There’s a great podcast episode on sartorial talks.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:50:53 2020 No.15569829

>>15569695
>What are you even talking about? Neapolitan cuts are trad as hell. Italian trad is still trad.
Not really. Traditional italian suits were those heavily inspired by english tailoring that became famous in the beiginning of the 20th century. Names such as A. Caraceni defined the style now mostly associated with Milan and Rome.
After WW2, when people began to buy good italian clothes again, the new generation of tailors mostly centered around naples began to break the traditions and creating several innovations that we now associate with italian suits, like the conventions on patch pockets, pig stitching, big lapels, wide collars and the unstructured suit. People like C. Attolini definitely were not abiding by tradition by breaking the rules that were common to (then estabilished) italian, french, british and american suits.
Now, you can argue that ever since the 60s neapolitan style has become somewhat trad, but I think this is a rather tenuous claim because of the existance and popularity of other styles.
>>15569701
Nah, there have been plenty of innovations since Beau Brummel.The only constant thing ever since is the sobriety, but that likely is due to the high cost of the extravagant clothing of the 18th century and the move to make the nobles more akin to the subjects because of the political influence of the french revolution.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:53:01 2020 No.15569833
File: 1.14 MB, 1500x2000, htam16.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>15564989
Trousers project day 13 and 14
Yesterday was relatively boring, so I skipped it. The waistband is attached now, the inner part is made from the lining fabric. Instructions suggest sewing it on upside down, turning over and doing a pick-stitch at the top, but for me it was easier to to pick-stitch at the top and bottom.
The turning over makes more sense if the lining and waistband are attached from both sides in one go with the sewing machine.
More importantly, I hate the bar tacks on the belt loops so I wanted to see if it is possible attach a belt loop without the stitches visible, and it is. Next step is attaching a facing to the buttoning points of the waistband and making the button holes. Maybe you'll get another update today.

Time spent:
3.5h - turning over the waistband, attaching the lining
0.5h - closing 4/6 belt loops

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 10:59:16 2020 No.15569846

>>15568041
Ah you asked about the construction of these. At least this one would probably be constructed of one part that is one the inside of the shirt and one for the outer side, but it still is not separated at the fold, so two pieces of fabric instead of 4 on an ordinary shirt.

>>15568048
In this one the collar can indeed be constructed from one piece of fabric only if you fold back the front of the color and have a seam in the center back of the undercollar.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:02:50 2020 No.15569851 >>15569833 >bespoke trousers >adds fucking belt loops Is this a two week trolling attempt?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:09:29 2020 No.15569860 >>15569851 No, I just want to wear it with a belt.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:11:09 2020 No.15569863 >>15569860 my disappointment is immeasurable and my day is ruined

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:17:14 2020 No.15569870

>>15569863
Don't worry, the next one's are actually self-belted high rise with pleats and a button fly. I know that you don't like belts.
The weird thing is, that it is taking me so long this time. The previous project were shorts with a flap pocket and it took me about three days to finish them.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:20:32 2020 No.15569875 >>15569833 >3.5 hours So far what has been the most time-consuming section? From what I recall it is that in a single go.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:23:22 2020 No.15569882 >>15569668 Some of those colours should never be worn. Maroon and black are high school prom tier. Wear a white shirt and have a maroon tie instead.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:28:19 2020 No.15569896 >>15569685 >Completely contrary to the original tip aesthetic which was challenging conventions at the time. Now it is about imitation and emulation without innovation. I'm one of the few frequent posters in tip and I agree 100% with this. Fuck /tip/.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:28:47 2020 No.15569897 File: 188 KB, 1280x960, 8C14551F-AD67-4B76-BEF4-9BDE96B7B1C2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15569870 Great choice on the next. What fabric? I think I’ll be feeling better soon lads.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:30:17 2020 No.15569900

>>15569820
dieworkwear was in a fairly heated discussion on that topic over at styleforum. Essentially he thinks the demise of suits and dressing well in general is inextricably linked to freedom, human rights, individuality and the ideals of classic liberalism. He states that the lax modes of dressing so common today are a consequence of equal rights and therefore not so bad.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:30:58 2020 No.15569901

>>15569875
Those 3.5 hours are an estimate. I did this over the course of 6 hours in about 10 minutes segments in between other things. It is about 10 minutes per quarter of the waist, so 80 minutes for the securing the waistband interfacing at the top and bottom and another 80 minutesfor the lining. Add some time for cutting and ironing the lining, for example.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:33:50 2020 No.15569910

>>15569690
Tip should be athletic academic menswear but instead it's button downs, beefroll penny's and single vents only. Rules should be replaced with themes that allow flexibility in buying choices. Just because ivy League students wore white sneakers doesn't mean you have to wear them today. As long as the footwear is a kind of sporting shoe it goes with the collegiate aesthetic. Similarly hoodies should be totally a part of the modern ivy aesthetic and in my opinion goes well with blazers.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:34:14 2020 No.15569912 >>15569897 Linen. It will have one belt loop to keep the self-belt up, though. Enjoy the medical procedure!

>>	CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 11:39:01 2020 No.15569924 File: 27 KB, 512x384, rr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15569897

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:42:48 2020 No.15569933 >>15569900 Dieworkwear talks alot of shit but never posts a fit.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:52:15 2020 No.15569950 >>15569882 Maroon is debateable but black is horrible, I agree. Dark shades in general are not that great for shirts. I would much rather go with a light blue or even royal blue shirt than navy.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 11:58:24 2020 No.15569958 >>15569950 It's a guide for sexcore enthusiasts.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:03:43 2020 No.15569963
File: 2.89 MB, 3000x4000, 20200916_161356.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

milsurp pants anon here, they arrived. overall theyre not bad for the money i suppose, though i cant say im gonna rush out to acquire more. they both are a little scratchy to the touch inside and out, unlined, and size wise they run a little small in the waist. theyre also rather thin material, standard school trouser thickness i suppose. the rise is roomy enough for me, but the legs are straight cut, and the pleat in them doesnt line up with my shin, all of which are kind of a negative to me, so if i decide i like them enough to wear them ill see about getting them tapered a little and cuffed maybe too, seeing as attempting to iron one in did not work in the slightest. more posts to come.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:10:34 2020 No.15569977
File: 838 KB, 1448x3096, 20200916_152653-crop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

brown pants are much the same, very boxy in the fit overall. the texture is a little more complicated than is shown here, i actually really like that about them. again, all the same issues as with the last pair though.

>>15569963
i should add they are a rather metallic grey-blue in colour in person

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:12:26 2020 No.15569981 File: 1.76 MB, 2448x3264, 20200916_151445.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] they dont look too bad from the side

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:13:50 2020 No.15569984 File: 1.37 MB, 2448x3264, 20200916_151430.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] and this should give you an idea of how the fabric drapes i think is the term i should use here

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:15:51 2020 No.15569991
File: 507 KB, 1997x2976, 20200916_161639-edit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

id say the blue pants are a little too formal looking to work with many things easily unless i do the japanese thing and wear slacks with more or less anything like i couldnt give a fuck. this is also the best thing i thought i could pair with both of those pants, forgive the basicness of it and my visible corona gains.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:16:19 2020 No.15569993

>>15569963
I like these ones.

>>15569977
Harder to see the detail here so much. Taper would definitely help out.

You mention a partner, thought you were 2 guys, then I see the hair. So Are you just a long haired guy? There isn't a way I could write this without offending lol..

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:21:45 2020 No.15570007
File: 77 KB, 205x425, 20200916_150717_762-edit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

this should give you a better idea of their colour and texture, shit as the photo is. they also dont look quite so boxy when the camera isnt at titty height and youre not stood like a melon.

>>15569993
yeah im a long haired bloke kek, though ive been told ive got the proportions of a fucking FtM as of late

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:22:02 2020 No.15570010 >>15569963 > they both are a little scratchy to the touch inside and out Poly mix?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:26:51 2020 No.15570028 >>15570010 yup, 60/40 wool poly sadly

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:29:56 2020 No.15570034 >>15570028 Idk man. Personally I wouldn’t wear them, the fabric on most of them is mediocre and the alterations to make them fit well would cost more than what you paid (was it $7?).

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 12:42:01 2020 No.15570056

>>15569991
Fits together well, I'm more of a fan of wearing a tie with a v neck though to keep it all together more neatly rather than the shirt collar all over the place.

>>15570034
This is why people need to invest in a basic sewing machine. Basic tapering of pants isn't hard at all and you can easily transform your pants to a great fit.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 12:56:12 2020 No.15570088 >>15570034 Not the guy who bought them, but I like them. Wouldn't buy them myself, but at this price range you can't really say anything against them.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:20:51 2020 No.15570136 >>15569984 Larger cut but they look good. Wouldn't worry too much about the pleat lining up with your shin, in motion no one will notice. Side note, you should do squats

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:25:15 2020 No.15570149 >>15570136 >Side note, you should do squats Don't, or do few of them. I had to stop because all of my pants were becoming slim fit.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:29:57 2020 No.15570158

>>15570034
depends, can i get better for £7 + the cost of alterations?

>>15570056
> I'm more of a fan of wearing a tie with a v neck though to keep it all together more neatly rather than the shirt collar all over the place.
desu im already pushing things a bit here in terms of acceptable dress, where i live a polo and jeans passes for dressing smart. i agree the collar needs sorting though, just not quite sure how.

>Basic tapering of pants isn't hard at all
to do it well though?

>>15570136
cheers, anon.

>Wouldn't worry too much about the pleat lining up with your shin, in motion no one will notice.
dont reckon its worth ironing out and putting a new one in?

>Side note, you should do squats
indeed i should, anon. ive been trying to force myself into lifting for years now but sooner or later i wind up dropping it, usually after about 3 weeks.

>>15570149
>Don't, or do few of them. I had to stop because all of my pants were becoming slim fit.
are you really objecting to having a better arse?

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:30:18 2020 No.15570159 >>15570149 >get fit and strong but buy new clothes >keep clothes and stay weak whatever you say Hank Hill

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:36:02 2020 No.15570182

>>15570158
off topic, but make it into a routine. Don't overdo it at first. Set clear goals for each day and write them down. You have equipment, it's visible in some of the photos.
Set aside a certain time of day and knock it out. Again it doesn't have to be crazy, just do enough to feel it, 30 minutes or so at first. The important thing is not to skip even when you're tired or feeling lazy. After a few weeks it becomes habit. As it gets easier increase reps or sets.
Good luck with it. Everyone should strive for physical greatness. I have never regretted working out but I have regretted not working out.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:40:08 2020 No.15570193 >>15570182 im thinking i wind up dropping it when i try and stick to some kind of specific routine, i a days b days etc. i might just make a habit of doing whatever i feel like as i pass by them for my morning shower.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 13:43:48 2020 No.15570200

>>15570193
Too complex if you can't stick with it. Pushups, squats, pullups, rows, overhead press, abs. Stick with those at first, even 20 minutes a day. Same thing every day, when it gets easy ramp it up a bit.
>might just make a habit of doing whatever i feel like as i pass by them
that will lead to weights being used as clothes racks.
Either way, pants look good, don't worry about them

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 13:44:23 2020 No.15570203

>>15570158
>desu im already pushing things a bit here in terms of acceptable dress, where i live a polo and jeans passes for dressing smart.

Doesn't thinking like this make you feel trapped? How others control how you dress? Unless people are not beating you up for it, I see it as an opportunity to make more of an impact on looking good. Even a really great looking spezz guy is going to stand out in a big city of people wearing formal regular black suits anyway.

>to do it well though?

Yeah, you might be a tiny bit out but nothing anyone would recognize. You are just tapering it as it heads towards the knee. Just keep it slow on a machine and do a slight curve. I just think it's a great life long skill to make any items fit really great and look like they're 10 times their value.

>ive been trying to force myself into lifting for years now but sooner or later i wind up dropping it, usually after about 3 weeks.

Stick to bodyweight and a large rubber band to workout. It's much easier than thinking about the effort of putting weights together, putting them back etc. which puts people off.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 13:46:17 2020 No.15570212

>>15570182
I have breakfast and then an hour later have a workout. try to get it done before 9am. If I leave it I am just thinking about it all day and get distracted by other things. Feels good and free to get it done before the day has really started.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 14:00:59 2020 No.15570249

>>15570200
by that i basically mean do about 3 exercises and shower, and not the same ones i did last time. typically with a routine i get stuck doing 5-6 exercises and it takes way longer than it reasonably should while also exhausting me. its also boring as fuck at that point. might just need to exercise in short bursts.

>>15570203
i am already bookish and not naturally social as it is, while self-expression is important to me i would be a fool to dress in ways that make me stand out too much, its confusing for others and will result in you being read and treat differently. it might sound odd, but i do think dressing better than others can be a negative if taken too far, people will take insult as a result, or think you weird, or whatever. i regularly get asked if im dressing up for a date or a special occasion or something in chinos and a peacoat by taxi drivers and the like.

i dont mind the weights, i do mind spending quite a bit of time doing repetitive stuff without a distraction or some means of entertaining my mind.

CecilDrakeInSeattle !effayRxItQ Wed Sep 16 14:12:44 2020 No.15570278

>>15570249
>but i do think dressing better than others can be a negative if taken too far, people will take insult as a result

I think if you're in the suit, gold on show, too many accessories, tie bar etc, But as you know, sprezzatura is about the opposite to that.

I see what you mean. I just have a mindset if I was on some island or in a huge private estate, how would I dress? What would I do? etc. Rather than what would those around me think. I think it's easier too to get sued to say a polo and a sports coat and when that becomes a norm to you, move onto shirts/tie.

Negative environments just hold people back.

>i do mind spending quite a bit of time doing repetitive stuff without a distraction or some means of entertaining my mind.

You should do something like 60 closed hand/diamond push ups. Then 60 regular push ups. Then 2 chairs push ups on them with legs on the floor to mimic push ups. Another 60.

You'll cover most areas of the chest and that alone shouldn't take too long.

It's self defeating too when you don;t stick to it, you see no results. if you do, it encourages you to continue.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 14:20:10 2020 No.15570296 >>15570007 Anon, you look like an old man here. These proportions are not working.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 15:02:43 2020 No.15570398

>>15570249
Taxi drivers are used to making small talk but it seems you aren't. They ask you literally anything and since you are dressing "better" they take a guess what you may be up to, as to create a friendly atmosphere for the ride. Take it as a compliment that they noticed your nice clothes and just talk to them about anything in return.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 15:12:36 2020 No.15570421

>>15570278
yeah, but mad with the crowd and all that.

bold of you to assume i can even do 1 diamond pushup.

>>15570296
nah theyre not, i could really do with some things being tapered, like my waist for instance.

>>15570398
eh, tone makes a big difference, as does the amount of times and the variety of people you hear it from. bad example in the taxi driver tho to be fair.

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 15:34:35 2020 No.15570486 >>15570203 Based tripfag. If I’m in Seattle...

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 15:34:53 2020 No.15570487

>>15570421
Sounds indeed as if you were living in a negative environment.

Trousers project minor update: Sat down another two hours and finished the waistband. This delay was mostly because of dumb construction, when I was nearly done I had an enlightenment how I could have easily saved 90 minutes, but that's that.

It's nearly done now, just some button holes, the remaining belt loops and the hem are left.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 17:18:18 2020 No.15570754

>>15569910
Just guessing here, but maybe this is just an issue of you misunderstanding the culture of the general and wish they were more into Ivy than they are? Hoodies obviously aren't *trad*, so if most of the posters are trad-inclined they obviously won't like that shit and won't care if anybody defends it as "neo-Ivy League" or whatever.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 17:21:23 2020 No.15570765

>>15570754
Well prep also has sporty elements (Ralph). If the threads are going to be/trad/ général they should make it so. Anyway this discussion is pointless since no one posts any fits anyway. Either the posters are too scared to post or no one actually dresses in any way /tip/ in their day to day life.

Anonymous Wed Sep 16 18:14:12 2020 No.15570873
File: 39 KB, 499x750, 1afd02efcfb7623f10facd97fe68d60c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

looking for something casual to wear to the casino that is slightly garish in terms of texture or patterns but not attention-seekingly flashy, anyone have suggestions

>>	Anonymous Wed Sep 16 18:30:40 2020 No.15570904 >>15570873 Creative Black tie would be appropriate

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 02:04:50 2020 No.15571775

>>15569685
>Post a fantastic Neapolitan cut suit or pic related and watch it get torn apart for breaking arbitrary rules. I'll even preempt your defense

uh, yeah. because it's not /tip/. If a whole sub-culture forms around a certain set of rules, you can't really call them arbitrary.

besides, no-one is going to be that butthurt about a well crafted, classically tailored fit. The autism is more directed at /fa/ tourists who drop in with shitty mall fits.

> Completely contrary to the original tip aesthetic which was challenging conventions at the time

so? there's a well-defined visual and aesthetic language. Neo-ivy is not and has never been about "challenging conventions". You have this bizarre understanding of clothing genres. People want to capture a look, and that often involves a set of "arbitrary" rules. As much as you think /sprezz/ is this freeform, innovative, forward-thinking genre, it's as much about these written or unwritten style rules as ivy is.

anyway, why is it so important to you that a bunch of people's interest conform to your (dumb) idea. Just stay in /sprezz/.

t. person who browses both and doesn't feel the need to be a faggot about it

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 02:44:40 2020 No.15571824 /tip/ should really just drop the trad, since no one posts trad outfits (or is old enough to look good in them).

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 05:36:29 2020 No.15572014 >>15571824 What would you call it? /privy?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:39:23 2020 No.15572165 File: 707 KB, 1944x1631, IMG_20200917_123604.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] /Tip/ refugee here. I'm at work so can't post a proper fit.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:40:44 2020 No.15572169 File: 757 KB, 1944x2475, IMG_20200917_123721.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15572165 And bottoms.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:46:12 2020 No.15572180 >>15570487 is what it is, i personally think its down the general decline of the area. nobody has shit and nobody knows shit about how to dress themselves anymore.

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:56:07 2020 No.15572198
File: 72 KB, 1140x700, thtttt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've noticed amongst the menswear enthusiast crowd, almost nobody seems to polish their shoes beyond just a gentle brushing to keep dirt off

I understand not polishing shoes amongst people who wear suits just for work, because they have no interest and it's just a uniform for them.
But I see it amongst people who do actually enjoy suits too and I don't understand why.

Is there a reason not to polish shoes as perfectly as you can? Is it too flashy or something?
I know people will notice a shiny pair of shoes more than a dull pair and perhaps that's not where you want peoples eyes to be drawn but I believe there is a kind of pride to be taken in polished shoes. Although perhaps it could also come off as 'showing off'?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:57:12 2020 No.15572201 >>15572198 Showing enormously huge effort is the opposite of /sprezz/. I haven't polished my shoes in years.

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 07:58:59 2020 No.15572203

>>15572165
>>15572169
Very good, provided everything fits and sits correctly when you're standing and walking!
I personally would have worn burgundy loafers or brown dark brown longwings instead, and maybe bring a touch of color with the socks (although I know not everybody likes it).

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 08:17:38 2020 No.15572218 I’m skellington 5’10” how do I pull off this core

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 08:18:01 2020 No.15572220 >>15572165 Nice ties as usually, solid fit. What was the problem in the other thread? You are one of the few who did not get harsh critiques

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 08:22:37 2020 No.15572227 >>15572165 shave your fucking neckbeard

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 08:32:29 2020 No.15572239 >>15572201 Your shoes could have been shined by anyone

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 08:46:24 2020 No.15572260 >>15572218 Do growing exercises

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 09:24:27 2020 No.15572304 >>15572260 Fuck off

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 10:37:28 2020 No.15572410 >>15572201 >>15572198 Hugo talks about the importance of shining your shoes. It’s more a maintenance care thing than a fashion effort.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 11:21:50 2020 No.15572482 File: 128 KB, 1080x933, growing.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15572304 >>15572260

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 11:38:15 2020 No.15572519 >>15572220 It's just a cancerous shithole with no fits.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:15:20 2020 No.15572645 >>15571775 >no-one is going to be that butthurt about a well crafted, classically tailored fit Then you should have no problem posting the Nea suit there

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:16:43 2020 No.15572647

>>15571775
>>15569621
>I don't even remember the last time anybody unironically claimed that something was "against the rules" in /tip/
>>15571775
>If a whole sub-culture forms around a certain set of rules
>People want to capture a look, and that often involves a set of "arbitrary" rules

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:17:54 2020 No.15572650 >>15572165 Great color on the jacket.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:43:21 2020 No.15572704 File: 258 KB, 944x1345, IMG_20200917_173839.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15572650 Thanks. Here's a full pic. The awkward lighting makes me peepee look hard. I promise it isn't.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:55:54 2020 No.15572733 File: 212 KB, 736x1378, IMG_20200917_174116.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>15572650 Thanks here's a full pic. Awkward pose included.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 12:57:49 2020 No.15572737 >>15572704 Those just look like regular folds to me. Dark brown shoes might be a tad bit better.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 13:02:32 2020 No.15572751 >>15572733 A fellow teacher! May your department heads be sane, your grading easy and your classrooms void of niggers

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 13:21:49 2020 No.15572799 >>15572751 Thanks! You too.

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:25:09 2020 No.15572955

>>15572733
I like it. Nothing to complain about ,really, but if the lapels were a bit wider and the buttoning position a inch lower it would look even better. It would make you look stronger and thus more intimidating/agressive, so it may not be fit for the teacher asthethic you are going for.
The jacket is rtw/thrift, right?

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:28:46 2020 No.15572959 >>15572198 Getting a mirror shine like that is hard. I do it every 6 months or so mainly for protecting the leather. The shine lasts for quite a bit, obviously diminishing over time.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:33:32 2020 No.15572979 >>15572955 Yeah the jacket is a vintage brooks brothers. I'm only teaching primary school children so I don't need to look too intimidating lol

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:35:06 2020 No.15572983 >>15572751 If you spend your free time on 4channel spouting racial slurs you really have no place anywhere near students.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:37:05 2020 No.15572987 >>15572955 >more intimidating/agressive, so it may not be fit for the teacher asthethic The fuck? Since when are teachers aggressive? Go back to the TIP thread you came from. Idiot.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:39:45 2020 No.15572995 >>15572983 And yet there I am, day after day, year after year Try and stop me faggot PS niggers tongue my anus

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:41:10 2020 No.15572997 >>15572987 Pity this poor anon and his terrible reading comprehension. He could really use a good teacher.

>>	Anonymous Thu Sep 17 14:44:13 2020 No.15573010 New Thread: >>15573007 New Thread: >>15573007 New Thread: >>15573007

Anonymous Thu Sep 17 22:08:24 2020 No.15574165

Joined the military and all I ever wore was white T-shirt’s and jeans since they kept getting destroyed but now I need civilian clothes since I never had anything to begin with.
Is this expensive to get into? All I have now really is 3 dress shirts/ pants and a single tie but I enjoy this style and have almost no experience with any type of clothing

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