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/fa/ - Fashion


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14657271 No.14657271 [Reply] [Original]

>actually rides motorcycles
>about to get a jacket tailor made
>wondering between cafe racer or double rider

Considerations I need to think about between the two?

>> No.14657279

Consider making your own mind up cuck

>> No.14657313

>>14657271
1) Neck
Which one is more comfortable for you when turning your head to check the sides? There's a reason why Schott has a cafe-racer/perfecto hybrid (called 'Cafecto', 603USA), which gives you the assymetrical zip but the cafe racer collar. There is a reason why the collar of the perfecto is buttoned, and as long as it doesn't get in the way of the type of helmet you're wearing, then you can go either way.

2) Center zip
The only reason for the assymetrical zip was that it was thought to be more wind resistant to unzipping than the normal center zip. Maybe, maybe not. In my experience, it makes no difference at all. Whatever is most comfortable for you.

Beyond these two things, you have differences in company and style.

3) Do you want shoulder gussets, or do you want to live with long sleeves when not riding?

4) Do you want a belt at the waist, or not?

5) Are you riding in hot or cold climate? Rainy or not?

Finally you have to decide on the type of leather...though this decision also depends on what company makes your jacket. Horsehide? Steerhide?

There's lots to consider...the final look is almost irrelevant.

>> No.14658364

>>14657313

Im really asking about the cultural aspects of it, isnt the cafe racer for boomers? or is it the double rider?

I am not making a possible $1K decision lightly

>> No.14658462

Cafe racer definitely
Unless you look like Marlon brando a double rider might give the Reddit rockabilly look while the cafe racer is timeless and very versatile

>> No.14658479

>>14657271
the cafe racer is fuckin boooomer . honestly dorky and ive never seen a legitematly cool person in one. the regular motorcycle jacket can be pretty cool too if you aint a dork.

>> No.14658481
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14658481

>>14658364
Have you tried either of the designs on? You have to see how it looks on your body and how it feels.

Asking about the cultural aspects...well, it's a consideration, but ultimately useless if you ride. The only people who will say, 'nice boomer jacket' are people who won't be riding themselves...are their opinions really worth listening to?

The Double-Rider is an excellent riding jacket and proven in design; just make sure it's at least normal weight, if not competition weight cow, horse, or steerhide. I wouldn't wear anything less on a motorbike.

The Cafe Racer is also excellent, but far more simple in terms of bells and whistles. Understated, functional, perhaps built more for speedy bikes than cruisers.

>Rides motorbike.
>chooses protective gear based on which design has boomer connotations.

Something is wrong here...

>> No.14658498

what type of question is this. ofc cafe racer style

double rider will make you look like a LARPer. plus cafe looks way more versetile

>> No.14658770

>>14658498
hes not gonna look like a LARPer if wearing a leather jacket if he actually rides

>> No.14659178

>>14658481
>sport bike

Dude pic related is what crotch rocket riders wear.

Cafe racer and double riders are cafe racers and cruiser territory now

Also, I get the whole protection thing. I just want an all around jacket and I'll tell the tailor to incorporate pockets for at least level 1 armor

>> No.14659180
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14659180

>>14659178
My bad

It's usually worn with jeans and sneakers btw

>> No.14659632

>>14659180
If you usually wear this, then consider Vanson (which have the option for armor); their solid, build quality is excellent, and their reputation is sterling. I'm breaking in a competition weight jacket of theirs as I type.

Maybe the question needs to be refined a bit. What are you looking for?

1) Jacket that is /fa/ which is safe to ride on a motorbike

or

2) Protective jacket that just happens to be /fa/?

The two are not the same. Both of the options you suggested at the beginning (assuming you're OP) are protective but likely without armor. If they fit you like a glove, then they'll be /fa/ regardless. That's the 'trick' with leather and leather jackets on a whole. They have to be skin tight without being restrictive...that's when they look good.

They look terrible when they have generic cuts from department stores, where you have to fill up the gaps with scarves, gloves, and other paraphernalia to correct the drape and cut.

Take sleeves for instance. Unless the jacket has shoulder gussets (elasticized sections at the back of the shoulders that accordion out when you stretch out your arms to ride), then the sleeves will end at the first knuckle of your thumb if your arms are hanging straight down.

Normal fashion sense would dictate that the sleeves are 'too long' in this case, but for riding it's perfect because when you raise your arms, a non-gusseted jacket will result in the sleeves being pulled backwards and the cuff will end about 1.5 inches shorter (at your wrist).

This is why fashion double-riders always look so foolish; they cut them so the sleeves are correct length when the arms are down, so they're not practical at all but they conform to the conventions of fashion today. In other words, modified so that form is over function.

The cafe racer is a smooth transition from any synthetic armored biking jacket. The double-rider is pure style and testosterone but different to what you're used to.

>> No.14659651

Further to all of this. In the 70's and 80's, a lot of rock bands were sporting double-riders, but you'll notice that quite a number of promo shots show the band members wearing the sleeves either rolled up or pushed up. The reason is not aesthetic, it's because the jacket sleeves are normally long to accommodate riding. This was impractical if you were playing guitar, so something had to be done.

What has happened today is that the consumer demand for this style has resulted in companies creating faux-double-riders, which essentially remove or alter elements of the jackets that were necessary for riding to make the jackets suitable for everyday wear.

Fashion double-riders usually don't have an external belt, long zipper pulls you can use with gloves while riding, etc. No doubt you know all of this already, but the reason I'm stating it is because of my next point.

If you want to wear a double-rider, easily the most iconic riding leather jacket, you first have to parcel out which companies make real ones and which ones make false. However! Even within companies like Schott, they have models that are built specifically for fashion look rather than riding, so you still have to do a shit-tonne of research and trying on jackets.

Lastly, double-riders are almost never armored, so that might be something you have to consider.

As for aesthetics, if you ride to a party wearing your double-rider, no one is going to say boo because you actually ride. Sure, an jealous asshat might pass a remark that you're patriarchy personified, but the mere fact that you are consistent makes all the difference, and showing that you don't care makes it even better.

Yes, the designs of these jackets have external societal connotations. Yes, people will give you a wide berth in a supermarket if you're buying groceries wearing a double-rider vs. wearing a cafe racer. But none of this matters because it's your life. Wear what makes you happy. As long as it fits properly.

>> No.14659691

Just get whichever one will protect you the most in a crash, dude. There's good looking options out there but please don't sacrifice safety for looks.

t. someone who laid his bike down at 50mph and tore a tricep, skinned his forearm and broke 3 ribs because he was more concerned with looking good instead of dressing safely

>> No.14659702

Last thought, and back to the original question:
Cafe Racer vs. Double Rider.

If all things about the jackets are equal (in terms of protection, pricepoint, and practicality regarding what you ride, how often, what climate, etc.), and the only thing you have to consider is the fashion aesthetic and social consequence, then here are some thoughts from someone who's experienced it first-hand in Western countries (EU and North America).

1) Cafe racers are very common to see, so you blend in and disappear with the crowds of 'casual' leather jackets. Double-riders, especially real ones, are surprisingly rare except among the riding community. Even in the gay community these jackets have started to dwindle (probably because of the cost). So, if you go to a club, try to pick up a girl, etc., wearing a cafe racer puts you with the gang. The double rider, especially if it's been used, will make you noticeable.

2) Surprisingly, double-riders are more forgiving if you gain weight in the waist; this is due to it having a 'double-breasted suit jacket' effect when worn open. So, long term, if you expect to gain weight or have health problems, the double-rider will look better long term than the cafe racer.

3) Both can be worn with jeans and ts, which is what I wear with mine (due to the heat more than anything else). That being said, the cafe racer cannot really be dressed up, whereas the double-rider has now been pushed to option as a business-casual jacket as well as a normal functional jacket. The number of 'style' magazines that feature a collared shirt with tie, proper trousers, and a double-rider are too numerous to mention. So, the double-rider has more flexibility in the higher end of fashion, and the cafe racer has more flexibility in the lower end.

Finally, keep in mind what >>14659691 says as it's true. Dress for the crash, not the attention. If you're an experienced rider, you know the rules.

>> No.14659713

Maybe I should ask OP:

What do you want out of the jacket?

Do you have a preference between the two styles?

What are you afraid of or concerned about that makes you think that one option isn't a good idea?

Finally, what makes you think that either design, if made by a reputable company, would be a mistake?

I understand the financial outlay, and I have made mistakes in the past with purchases like everyone else. But ultimately, if I said, 'choose x', what would make you say, 'well...I'm not sure?'

If we know what the problems are that you perceive with these designs, then we can better help you to understand if those problems are real concerns, and if so, how to go around them so that you're wearing what makes you smile.

>and no, I'm not sorry for the walls of text to the Anons who will no doubt declare.

>> No.14659765
File: 143 KB, 1297x735, Jacket A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
14659765

>>14659632
I started with 2 with no success, and I guess I am cocky on the two wheels that I am good with 1.

I want the best of both. Utility, safety, and /fa/

Thank you so much for your lengthy response, I guess I am concerned about perception of each one since it will be MY all around jacket that I am hoping to be versatile (can dress up and down) For one, I've been hearing things that the double rider is extremely hard to pull off and will only fit certain body types, which is weird considering there are a lot of double riders in another fashion forum. I am getting it tailor made so that aspect wont matter as much anyways.

What is your opinion on pic related, but more modern like my OP, remove the front zipper pocket and coin pocket, the star on the epaulet and make the hardware rose gold?

>> No.14659877

>>14659765
If you're going with 1), then here's what I'd suggest.

1) Seriously consider Schott, Aero, and Vanson. Their jackets are reliable, well made, and protective enough for the purpose. I trust all three, and have ridden with two (still don't own an Aero yet...one day). They have many different designs, and both Aero and Vanson do completely custom sizing. Schott is 'iffy' on custom sizing, so call them and find out directly if it's possible. If you're a normal human bean, then you should be able to fit into any one of their three fits (slim, classic, etc.). If you have really messed up proportions, then perhaps go with Vanson.

2) Go to normal leather stores (boutiques, department stores, and of course motorcycle gear stores) and try on an approximate version of what you want to buy. You have to see it on yourself before you'll really know. For some people, the style of jacket will never work but looks good...for other people, the style is great but it doesn't suit their personality.

3) All around jackets are impossible...this is one of the problems of riding, and this is why most of us carry a change of clothing. That being said, the perception of the jacket is based on the people you surround yourself with. My friends and colleagues all know I wear leather for all my coats, jackets, etc...I don't wear synthetics on top anymore. So, 'another leather jacket' is just another leather jacket. When I got my first one a few decades ago, I wore it all the time until I realized that it didn't always go with everything that I wore. So, I looked like a tourist who had a limited wardrobe.

What you have to know about leather jackets is that they are the centerpiece of your total look when you step out the door. They're the thing that most people will notice first, and therefore you have to coordinate your style appropriately to the jacket. A jacket affects everything, from what hair style you sport to if you wear a belt.

>> No.14659885

brando jackets are for bitches

>> No.14659889

>>14659877
cont.

Further to this, I discovered a year ago (that's how late I am to the game) that the drop of a collar or the length of lapels determine the perception of the neckline, so a jacket can also 'force' you into a situation where you have to wear a long necklace to break the line, or a crew neck to individualize the head. There's a lot to think about.

The reason people say the double-rider is hard to pull off or fits only certain body types is because it's a jacket that is associated with pure masculinity, in both hetero and gay formats. It's aggressive, hard, uncompromising, utilitarian. That's just in the design. Think of the 'masculine' traits in framing that the jacket promotes: epulettes which enlarge the shoulders, a belt that cinches the waist, double-breasted style collar emphasizing and framing the head...all these things emphasize or exaggerate the male form. The cafe racer is far more streamlined, less obviously masculine, with a neck line that makes the head look smaller, less 'lionish'.

What this amounts to is what Anons on here fear the most:


Wearing a jacket that presents hyperstylized traits which the individual wearing the jacket cannot live up to.


Since you ride already, you've checked off the most important point; that you wear the jacket because you ride. The only other thing now is to make sure that at all times YOU wear the jacket and the jacket doesn't wear YOU.

>> No.14659898
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14659898

How much meth are you on atm?

>> No.14659909
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14659909

cont. last.

Regarding the alterations to the pic you provided. Hardware being rose gold will simply fade away with use and start to look silver, so that doesn't factor into it for me. Regarding removal of the coin pocket; for my eyes, it looks like the jacket is missing something when you do that. There's a lot of 'stuff' happening at the top of the jacket, but at the bottom there's...well...nothing.

There are perfectos without the star on the epulette, so that's no problem and doesn't really affect the look as much as the prestige. Lastly, the pic in your OP doesn't have a waist belt, which is yet another thing that makes the bottom middle of the jacket look empty. Granted, the belt is one of the biggest problems to wearing the Perfecto as a casual jacket; no walking into stores of fine porcelain unless you expect to accidentally destroy everything on display just by turning around suddenly.

The jacket in your OP is 'almost' a double-rider. That's my basic aesthetic problem with it. It's 'hinting' at the possibility of being tough, without going full out. For me, it feels try-hard. If you're going to do it, just do it and don't look back.

Here's an option, but it'll cost a little money. Consider buying a faux-leather double-rider (companies that make quick fashion like Top Man sell these things for 180$ or less). Not to ride with, but to wear as a casual jacket to see what happens to you socially. If you like the result, then you'll know to save up and spend the proper money on a real one. If it fails miserably, or if you don't like how people treat you and look at you, then you'll know not to go with the real thing.

>>14659898
Enough to kill a horse, skin it, and wear it as an awesome jacket... What about you, friendo?

>> No.14659912

Go away faggots

>> No.14661125
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14661125

>>14659909
>but at the bottom there's...well...nothing.

We do have that belt, and I want to keep the belt as it has an actual use!

And the rose gold, because I want it to look like it belongs with a knit tie and slacks (Pic related, but replace bomber with double rider) if need be, the concern I have with that many hardware and the rose gold is that it will look cheap. Want the luxury and expensive feel of the bomber, ya know?

I already have the H&M double rider, and got lots of compliments on it, so I am good.

>> No.14661176

no gear icon variant fz-09 squad REPPIN

*VROOM VROOM VREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE*

>> No.14661517

>>14661176
I personally saw an accident with a squid that one time. So now I'm tainted and ATGATT.

No thanks lol but do you bro

>> No.14661676

Fox Valley Leather jackets are made-to-order. Choose your hide, color of hardware, etc. You'll have it for life. Stay away from the Chinese-meme Vanson if you're actually going to ride more than one Sunday a month (summer only, of course) to the coffee shop.

>> No.14661728
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14661728

>>14661676
Pic related is independence brothers, although I don't think the length is for riding (too long) I'll email them.

Heard of them? I am currently trying to look for reviews and pics to get a feel for their stuff

>> No.14662756

>>14659691
this is the correct answer

>> No.14663592

>>14662756
Literally none of the jackets with armor look /fa/

my best bet would be to have it custom made but then with the armor the fit is gonna look off