/fa/ - Fashion

[Anonymous No.10472988]

Designer/High Fashion General Thread

The last one >>10468130 was the best thread in ages.

If you want to find images from fashion shows for _some_ brands, try:
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/

"From the beginning I thought about working with the body in movement, the space between the body and clothes. I wanted the clothes to move when people moved. The clothes are also for people to dance or laugh." - Issey

[Anonymous No.10473014]

>almost buy some Ximon Lee Vfiles pieces when his collection premiered
>now it's in an H&M capsule in almost exactly the same form

Any other /dodged-a-bullet/ fashion stories out there?

[Anonymous No.10473028]

>>10472988
I'd add firstview to the "where to find images" part,
especially for older shows

[Anonymous No.10473044]

A damir interview from a few years back, published in paper planes(I think..)


Hi, Damir. How are you doing?

Fine, thanks.

So how come after 3 years of doing menswear collections, you’ve decided to launch a womenswear collection?

I always wanted to do it, but it was much easier to start with men because I’m a man, and basically I design clothes for myself. Also it’s because I was assisting Dirk Schoenberger and Raf Simons before starting on my own stuff, and for me it was easier to start with something I already knew. Anyway, it was the right time to start the womenswear collection, because I don’t want to be just a menswear designer. If you want to build a fashion house, you need to cover menswear and womenswear.

Which designers are an inspiration for you?
I have always been inspired by Armani – his shapes and lines – and also by Miyake and Helmut Lang.

What was the inspiration for the collection?

It wasn’t easy at the beginning. I took some pieces from my menswear collection and reshaped them because I needed something to start from, but I’ve changed them for the next collection because I don’t want to do unisex. The shapes are more feminine now, and I’m also thinking about bringing more structure into the men’s side. At the moment my inspiration comes from my girlfriend – I’m doing the clothes for her. I normally start off by gathering images and things that trigger something in me, feelings and colors…and I stick them up on a big board, which just grows and grows. I’m a feeling designer. It is obvious that both my collections are going to have the same spirit. I am not someone who creates a concept then builds something around it, like Raf, for example. Raf has a concept and if you see him and his collection it’s like they’re two different worlds. I develop my own fabrics in Italy with Lyria for the different volumes and shapes…

[Anonymous No.10473050]

>>10473044

You need to build up your own identity. All of the major women’s fashion houses already have one; you must have one, surely…

Yes – but it takes you years. Women’s fashion is so crowded; there are so many labels; too much shopping…

Yes, but everyone wants do design for women.

I know, because women’s fashion is where the money is. That’s where you can cover your costs, and that’s what it’s all about in this crazy business. It’s very emotional – there’s no other business where you would invest your money for such a small return. You’d just say, “Fuck it” (Laughs). In fact it is so emotional that people in the big houses will just throw all their money into a small collection, but at the end of the day they still have to cover their own costs, so that’s why you make the money with womenswear collections. That’s the long-term plan for all of us, otherwise you just can’t do fashion shows. I’d say that [sic] is almost no one, except maybe Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, who actually make money out of their clothing, and these days even they are selling a lot of shoes and bags. Do you really think Balenciaga makes money from the clothing?

No…

I don’t think so. And in men’s fashion, that potential just isn’t there.

I think it’s also because there was a long period of time when men’s fashion was completely like… dead… and now it’s flowing again, and it’s really good because there used to be nothing…

Yes, it is interesting. I also think that the atmosphere during men’s fashion week is better than during women’s. It is lighter, easier, but in a positive way. Everyone is cool, everyone’s open to things; there’s a lot of communication… Things are much more open during men’s week. During women’s week it’s like everybody’s in a hurry.

[Anonymous No.10473056]

>>10473050
And you can spend the money on a perfume line, on a shoe line…

That’s what holds the whole business together. Also, the magazines need advertisers, and all of that kind of thing comes from the bags and perfumes, which is absolutely ridiculous while we’re all making this huge effort. That’s what I’m saying: it’s all about emotions. We really go to a lot of trouble…

You had your own perfume, didn’t you?

Yes, but it was only a project. I don’t even have it myself anymore, because it sold out in a month.

Really?

They only did a limited edition – two or three thousand bottles – and didn’t bring it out it [sic] again. It’s very sad because we spent all that money, and developing a perfume is extremely expensive, and then they don’t use it again. Because they do a new group of designers each year.

Are you thinking about doing a new one?

I would love to. I think creating a perfume is such a great experience, not just for designers but for all human beings. I was working with a perfumer from New York, and I kind of wrote a story for him, and he made the scent from my story. So it’s really a lot fo fun; it’s just great that you can create your own perfume. But it’s complicated for a label; you have to be very big to do perfume. There are also other examples, like Victor & Rolf; I don’t think they make any money from their collection, they just have to do the collection to sell the perfume.


Does anyone care for this type of thing? Should I post the rest?

[Anonymous No.10473063]

here's a collection of interesting stuff from the last thread:

interview with Yohji Yamamoto, full of wisdom:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4F5kxw-7Uw

recent YY interview:
http://blackparadox.us/post/130648628802/yohji-yamamoto-interview-2016-ss

Designer Noa Raviv:
http://www.noaraviv.com/hard-copy-collection/

interview with Alan Taylor:
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15546/1/alan-taylor-aw13

Vuitton fashion show this season:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q57UbjigjIU

interview with Christophe lemaire:
http://vestoj.com/conversations-on-slowness-4/

interview with Dries Van Noten:
http://vestoj.com/conversations-on-slowness-2/

mentioned discussion sites:
styleforum
#effay irc on rizon

recommended books:
My Dear Bomb - Yohji Yamamoto
One hundred years of menswear - Cally Blackman
Blood Beneath the Skin - on Alexander McQueen by (Andrew Wilson)

designers/houses mentioned: Yohji Yamamoto, Yang Li, Martin Margiela, Christophe Lemaire, Junya Watanabe, Haider Ackermann, Jan Jan van Essche, Issey Miyake, Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, Saint Laurent Paris, Hedi Slimane, Stephan Schneider, Fiona Blakeman, Noa Ravid, Alan Taylor, Vuitton, Luster, Vêtements, Balenciaga, Carol Christian Poell (CCP), Yang Li, Sacai, Dior, Céline, Jun Takahashi, Lanvin, A.F. Vandevorst, Nilos, Aganovich, Commes des Garcons, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Jil sander, Stefano Pilati, Nicolas Ghesquière, Rad Hourani.

yes, that took a long fucking time to write.

[Anonymous No.10473064]

I think Hedi's first goal at SLP was to bring his aesthetic back into the main stream, he's been incredibly succesful in doing this. It makes sense considering just how many designs he pretty much imported straight from his Dior Homme collections.

However in this process he had to trim some of the artistic fat so to speak. He wouldn't have a chance bringing back pieces from collections like Luster, for example. Even as an avid Hedi fan I think it just looks too outdated, as much as I love the collection.

[Anonymous No.10473071]

>>10473056
please post a link to it instead.
we have a character limit because reasons
thanks though

>tfw all your shoes aren't Guidi

[Anonymous No.10473073]

>>10473056
I'm enjoying reading, pls continue

[Anonymous No.10473079]

>>10473063
great summary, thanks for collecting that up all neat and tidy.

i'm pretty shit at 4chan, is there some way to archive the last thread? like archive it longer than the actual archive on this site? i'd like to go back and have a read through it when i have more time

[Anonymous No.10473082]

>>10473079
thanks

>>/fa/thread/S10468130#p10468130

warosu is our searchable board archive

[Anonymous No.10473084]

>>10473079
warosu

[Anonymous No.10473090]

>>10473063
good stuff

>>10473071
Don't have one unfortunately, probably pasted it from tfs or elsewhere long ago(this is from '12 or something..)

tried finding it but no luck

might post the continuation in smaller bits further into the thread but don't want to make it to a huge wall of text

[Anonymous No.10473097]

>>10473090
I think that'll be great
thank you for posting it

[Anonymous No.10473105]

>>10473082
>>10473084
thanks guys :)

[Anonymous No.10473119]

>>10473097
np, will post a few links too

for now dries ss10

[Anonymous No.10473122]

>>10473119

[Anonymous No.10473125]

Does minimalist menswear get better than Early Helmut Lang?

Pic is ss98

[Anonymous No.10473127]

>>10473122

[Anonymous No.10473132]

>>10473127

[Anonymous No.10473138]

>>10473132

[Anonymous No.10473155]

http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/good-fit

http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/people/the-children-of-comme

Lemaire interview

http://bon.se/article/guardians-of-the-garments/

[Anonymous No.10473168]

>>10473155

Lemaire interview

https://www.ssense.com/en-us/interview/lemaire?utm_source=2178999&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=generic&utm_term=10782042

About Chitose(sacai) & Junichi(kolor) Abe, more lifestyle than actual fashion i'd say, still very nice read

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10/14/homework-two-designers-and-one-very-modern-house-in-tokyo/?_r=1

[Anonymous No.10473178]

>>10473063
>Luster
Should be replaced with dior homme, or is it about something else entirely, that I missed?

[Anonymous No.10473179]

>>10473125
lab coat tier :/

[Anonymous No.10473213]

How about a triplet to start off

[Anonymous No.10473215]

>>10473168

Article on Dries

http://www.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052970204449804577068922634428082

SS97 photo, and a clip below(wish it wasn't so crap)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eowvG6ueTUI

[Anonymous No.10473217]

>>10473213

[Anonymous No.10473224]

>>10473217

[Anonymous No.10473225]

>>10473224
I really want to get my hands on these pants. Either for inspection or collection.

[Anonymous No.10473235]

>>10473056
>>10473073
All right, will try not to spam the thread with it though so will space out the posts

Comme des Garçons is the best example of that.

But Comme des Garçons is my business role model. If I’m thinking about the business and how we should do things, I always look at Comme des Garçons, because to me they are the only ones who manage to maintain a really, really strong image – actually the strongest in the whole market – and do so much cheesy stuff and it doesn’t hurt their image. I have friends in Germany who have nothing to do with fashion, and they’ve got a Comme des Garçons wallet, and if you ask them what Comme des Garçons is, they don’ t know! (Laughs) They’ve never heard of it, and they do not know who Rei Kawakubo is, which is fantastic. What they did in the perfume business is just amazing, because the scents are the best; they do the best perfumes in really cool packaging and the price is OK, too. I think they now have about 50 different scents, and five years ago they only had a couple. And they do it in such a clever way, because they do not invest all the money in special flacons.

Yes, it is really cool.

Yes, it is cool.

What do you think about Zara, H&M etc.?

I think that what they are doing is good. Of course they copy, but I wouldn’t be angry if I saw a copied piece hanging there, because that means that someone who can’t afford my clothing or stuff from other high-end designers can buy something similar there, and that also teaches the general public how to dress. I also launched a second line called Silent, which is reasonably priced because I don’t have to develop fabrics especially for that collection.

[Anonymous No.10473236]

>>10473225
And I love this close-up

All I have for now. Gunna go eat~.
Would anyone be opposed to establishing some trips for these generals so people know who is associated with which designer knowledge base?

[Anonymous No.10473253]

>>10473236
(and the full length, before I'm out--sorry for the delay)

[Anonymous No.10473267]

>>10473236
Guess I could if you want me to

not sure how trips work but maybe i'll figure it
out

and those black/red pants are pretty baller

[Anonymous No.10473271]

>>10473235
As I told you before, every edition of the magazine is inspired by a song; this time it’s Back to Black by Amy Winehouse. Do you know the song?
I’m sorry, I’ve never heard it.

But I’m sure you know Amy Winehouse. What do you think of her?
I think she’s got a great voice, but she takes too many drugs and drinks too much.

What kind of music are you listening to these days?
I’m listening to a lot of classical music like Wagner, but I also really like Nick Cave, and I listened to a lot of Hip Hop when I was younger.

I also wanted to ask you about your project with DJ Hell and Malcom Pate…
Yes, it was something I did for the Milan fashion week, and it had huge projections in a gallery – something like these walls; three by four meters in 200 square meters of space. It was all about projecting the scent of the collection, about fluidity, humanity very much about instincts…

[Anonymous No.10473280]

>>10473271

I saw it and I really liked it. Do you want to go on doing videos?

I’ve been doing videos since the beginning. I also collaborated with another guy called Alessandro Tinelli, and I think it’s great way [sic] of putting your image across; you can do much more than you can in a photo. These days it’s so easy to post it on the Internet and on blogs, so it is really good and it costs much less than a fashion show. But I don’t believe that it’ll replace fashion shows because I know that Gareth Pugh has been doing it for tow [sic] or three seasons now, and everybody think’s it’s something new, but it isn’t, becauses you have videos like this by Armani from the 80s and 90s. There have always been image videos; they’re different now because we’re dealing with different things, but they’ve always been there. But to me, fashion shows are the only way to get really close to an audience; you have this ten minute block, and you only have that special feeling for those ten minutes. You can’t get it back and it’s all about creating the right energy in the right space; the right music and everything else has to mesh together. And that’s where I can try to make you part of my dream – because to me the fashion show is the dream I had about the collection.

[Anonymous No.10473298]

do you guys have friends that are into designer clothing? I literally cannot convince any of them that it's worth getting into and it seems like the only people who wear this stuff are Asians who stick to themselves anyway.

Post fa crew if yo have one.

[Anonymous No.10473303]

>>10473178
yes, sorry. hehe. lot's of text.

[Chuck !w1Bug5WJHk No.10473319]

>>10473063
I appreciate this, thank you

[STHLM - ストックホルム !EFFAYoZx0A No.10473320]

>>10473267
in the name field, type:
username#password (less secure)
or
username##password (more secure)

as simple as

[Anonymous No.10473322]

>>10473298
I have a friend who is slightly interested in it only because I am but I could never convince him to buy designer even if he had the money for it

[Anonymous No.10473329]

>>10473298

I feel like I wouldn't want to be friends with any of these people. Doesn't really give off a vibe of the type of crew I would enjoy being with.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473357]

>>10473303
yeah, pretty long thing to go through too

>>10473298
nah not really, don't really care about that either though

happy with my friends as they are tbh, could care less about their choices in clothes as long as they don't look like total bums

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473359]

>>10473320
Thanks

Från Stockholm? Or just a name?

[Anonymous No.10473363]

>>10473322
>>10473329
Maybe I chose a bad pic. I was mostly wondering if you guys have /fa/ friends because I'd love to do the same. I just haven't met anyone like that yet.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473364]

>>10473280

Yes. At a fashion show you’re really there and you can feel the atmosphere…

That’s right, and in a video you can’t. You can’t feel, you can’t see the fabrics… but I do think it’s a very cool thing to use additionally. It helps a lot, because fashion shows for women’s collections are so expensive, especially in Paris. You have so many costs in terms of models and stuff like that. I don’t think you even have to pay for the models in New York; they get some clothes, or 300 bucks here and there, but in Paris you pay at least €1000 for even the worst fashion week model, because in France everything is regulated. Even that. So imagine you need 25 girls; that’s €25000 even without the casting director, and you can’t get a girl without a casting director, so it gets ridiculous. And it’s much the same for the menswear collections.

What do you think about Facebook, Twitter and all those social networks?

I think it’s a good thing for communicating as a company, and it’s free. You can reach a lot of people with it, and you can reach the right people…

Do you think so?

Yes, because they are interested in your work. They connect with you; you can reach them very easily by posting. And you can educate them; tell them about all the things you’re doing, where you are. There didn’t use to be any way of doing these things, so it’s something else we can use, on top of what we’ve got. Before you could only communicate by doing your shows, or books, which it [sic] was too expensive…

[Anonymous No.10473365]

>>10473363
Relevant

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473371]

>>10473364

And the press?

It’s sort of the same, but the press is something you can’t control. You have to be very passive with the press; you can’t really tell them what to write.

That’s true.

You can guide them a little, but you can’t choose what you do or don’t want to hear. With Facebook it’s much easier. You can reach people every day. I think it’s a good thing, and we are just at the beginning of it all. I am curious about what’s going to happen in the future, I am sure it is going to be a platform for sales, too, you know. People will buy and sell stuff over the community…

And what do you think about a lot of people selling online?

I understand a lot of things about this business, but online business is still something I don’t really understand – not even online distributors. And what’s it going to be like in the future? It’s difficult for a label, because there are a lot of good online retailers at the moment, but you also have to watch out that you don’t have too many, because they could take all your customers from the shops, and it’s very difficult to get that same feeling. We have Luisa Via Roma, The Corner… but now every shop has an online store, so it’s getting ridiculous. To be honest, I think that in the long term, if you’re a label and you want to run a business, you have to open your own shops like everyone has always done. The best example is Rick Owens, because at the moment they’ve reached a certain level, and they can’t get any higher because every shop is buying so much of the collection, and the point comes where they’re over-distributed; so they become aware that at this moment in time they have to open as many shops as possible, because they are hot right now and they can find partners very easily. At a certain point the big labels will sell their stuff direct to customers, because they make so much more money than selling it through a shop. That’s what I think.

[STHLM - ストックホルム !EFFAYoZx0A No.10473421]

>>10473359
Born and raised.
Själv?

[Anonymous No.10473426]

>>10473363

[Laserface !/VJxsUn3ao No.10473438]

Any predictions on the follow up to this masterwork?

[Laserface !/VJxsUn3ao No.10473447]

>>10473438

[Laserface !/VJxsUn3ao No.10473451]

>>10473447

[Laserface !/VJxsUn3ao No.10473462]

A friend of mine set me shots of these

new jil sander boots

[Anonymous No.10473464]

>>10473462
Oh fug

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473501]

>>10473421
Cool, Borås

Not an awful place to be considering textile school(the library isn't awful)

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473512]

>>10473371

You have a small but very beautiful shop here in Paris. Do you plan to open a new one?

Yes, the store is below our offices, and it’s really small. We make the best of it, but I think it’s very important to move up to the next level and open a proper shop, because communicating your image is the main thing and it’s very difficult for a label to really communicate in a multibrand store, like Atelier NY, for example, which is one of the most beautiful stores in the world…

I agree, I know the store…

Yes, but looking at it from a label’s point of view, it’s all about Atelier. When you enter the store, everything is black.

True.

So you aren’t communicating with clients, and they’re seeing something very similar from all the labels, so it’s more about the shop than the label. That’s why it’s very important to have your own shop.

Do you think that everything is black because of a trend? I mean black was and always has been a strong color, and everybody wears a lot of black. Even you; you’re almost always dressed in black…

I dress mostly in black because if I dressed in colors I would feel as if I was giving away too much information, which I don’t want to do. As you see in the showroom, we do have color but we hang it separately because if we hung it all together the people who don’t like color would be so annoyed that they wouldn’t even pick out the thing they like. So I think that there will always be two groups of people: the more fashion-conscious ones, who want color, and the buyer who buys the same style every season.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473547]

>>10473512

The song is from 2006. Do you have any memories from that time?

2006 was the year that I started. It was a very happy year; there is a point when you finish your studies and you’re working as an assistant, and you never imagine that you’ll ever do anything like this. It’s like a dream, and it was just a fantastic year for me; a year of no thought or doubts – you know, you’re so busy with yourself (laughs) working all the time and going crazy and… it was a happy year!

How do you feel living in Paris? I can imagine it wasn’t easy if you think back to the place where you grew up, and then Antwerp which is also a small city, and then… PARIS!

It’s really intense! I mean, I’ve been to a lot of big cities, but to me Paris feels especially intense. Moving to Le Marais changed that a little bit, because my office is about 200 meters from my apartment, so it feels more like a village; you go to the café, you always do the same things. But at the beginning, when I lived in Saint Germain, it took me about forty minutes to get to the office, and then forty minutes back again. So it can be very intense, especially for foreigners, who aren’t really welcome here. But I also have to say I made the choice and I don’t speak the language – which I actually quite like, because although it can be very annoying not speaking the language it also means you don’t have to listen to all the rubbish that people talk, and people do talk a lot of rubbish!

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473615]

>>10473267
Neat. I think it'll be helpful, although I'll be spending less and less time on 4chan in the coming months. Get to resurrect the spirit of a trip I had 7~ years ago for a bit anyway.

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473619]

>>10473615

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473626]

>>10473619

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473641]

>>10473626
Two more from AW 09/10

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473644]

>>10473641

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473649]

>>10473644
And a pair of shoes

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473673]

>>10473649
Been thinking a lot about these lately, although I can't see anything I have that would coordinate
https://www.ass-inc.com/html/WF-007SP2_Black.htm

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473701]

Céline ss11

http://thegentlewoman.co.uk/#/library/phoebe-philo

Editorial+interview with Philo

>>10473673
I kinda like those, not sure about that sole though

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473704]

>>10473701

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473708]

>>10473704

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473712]

>>10473708

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473716]

>>10473712

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473718]

>>10473701
The Phillip 1 used a creme/off-white sole, although I don't see anywhere that has it still in stock. Just used (which for this shoe isn't bad--I'd prefer roughed up and well worn.)

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10473725]

>>10473718
Forgot pic

>>10473701
The way that sleeveless curls slowly from the waist up to the breast and tucks into the vest underneath. Sensual as fuck.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473736]

>>10473718
Yeah it's one of those things that I wouldn't want to come across as to 'clean' or whatever, better a little beat up and worn

>>10473725
better than the first pair for sure

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10473742]

>>10473547

Why Paris and not New York or any other fashion center?

The decision to come to Paris was a business decision, because I think Paris is the only city that can take my image, my creation. I mean, for me London is only experimental fashion; the people who have the potential to come to Paris come. And Milan … can you imagine my collection in Milan?

No, not really…

So obviously I had to come to Paris; there wasn’t such a wide choice. I mean you have Milan and Paris, and Milan wasn’t right for me.

Milan is very business-centered isn’t it?

Yes, it is. It’s very clean, very…

Not so much the creative side…

Right. And I think that people expect different things from Milan than they do [sic].

Yes – to me they are completely different…

And London fashion, to me is… I really hate London fashion. (laughs) I just looked at the calendar the other day, and they have about fifteen shows every day, and out of those fifteen shows you’ve heard of maybe one label. Even if you’re interested, you only know one label. So it’s a newcomer’s fashion week. But it’s not even newcomers, these are mostly students, and they all get the chance to show their stuff. I think they need to be much more selective. Not everyone needs to do a fashion show, because most people build up these high expectations, and if they do a fashion show in London they suddenly think they are great fashion designers, but they still have a very long way to go to really build up their business. I’ve been doing it for almost four years now, and I know I haven’t really achieved anything yet. If I stop tomorrow, I’m right back to square one. And people have to realize that; you can’t stop thinking, you can’t stop working…

[Anonymous No.10473766]

>>10473071
One of those shoes is guidi
One is Carpe
One is Y's
Three are some off-brand trash shoes

http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3898&page=17

[Anonymous No.10473797]

Can someone please tell me If I need to size down for Geobaskets if I want them to fit snug? I wear a size 42

[Anonymous No.10473876]

>>10473797
Yes, size down to a 41. Geos have a roomy toebox. You can definitely go TTS but most people size down, especially if you want a snug fit.

[intern !!gcSycT7bcc4 No.10474183]

>>10473447
the cowl neck on this is so good
all that drape
god damn
anyone know what fabric that is? (please do not respond with a fiber)

[Anonymous No.10474197]

I'm completely open to having my opinion changed. I really like the Saint Laurent look, whether you want to call it rockstar or heroin-chic or whatever. But I'm kind of swayed by all the criticism of Hedi I see here. What are the alternatives? Who is doing heroin chic in an interesting and innovative way?
Also I'd like to say that these threads have been the best on /fa/ in a long time. Keep it up

[NAHK !!A41JWqMoDrE No.10474213]

>>10473462
>>10473464

I tried these on recently. They are enormous. People make fun of Rick shoes for being clowny... Oh man, wait til you see these.

[Anonymous No.10474214]

I wish Nicola would bring this back in louis.

[intern !!gcSycT7bcc4 No.10474219]

>>10474197
why are the opinions of others swaying you?
most of the criticism is the lack of groundbreaking designs, but no one has slammed SLP for its quality.
If you want a fast fashion version of the style, go to All Saints. I'm not aware of any contemporary brands that have the same style, though i'm sure someone here could recommend something.

[Anonymous No.10474233]

>>10474197
I'm getting over the tight pants on men thing, though I detest the harem drop crotch ninja Owens pants more.

we need to find the middle ground.
we live in a disgusting islamified world.
western men need to look like a man now more than even, and this is coming from a girl.

[Anonymous No.10474245]

>>10474233
The tight pants is a big plus for me personally, I like to appear fairly feminine. Partly because that's the kind of boys I'm attracted to, and partly because it's a metaphorical middle finger to the norm of masculinity.
Sorry for sounding like tumblr

[Anonymous No.10474248]

>>10474245
one of the biggest reason the western world is doomed.

Direct that angst edgy anti masculinity memetiude to the one thing were its needed like mussies and niggers and you will have my respect.

[Anonymous No.10474257]

>>10474245
>norm of masculinity.

that's not a bad thing anon embrace it hard.

[Anonymous No.10474259]

>>10474248
>>10474233
lol do you really think like this?
>we live in a disgusting islamified world.
>Direct that angst edgy anti masculinity memetiude to the one thing were its needed like mussies and niggers and you will have my respect.

into the trash you go

inb4 back to tumblr u sjw

[Anonymous No.10474263]

>>10474233
What is the image of masculinity to you then? Not trying to be sarcastic, genuinely curious

[Anonymous No.10474285]

>>10474259
>rose tinted glasses

[Anonymous No.10474287]

>>10474285
definitely not

[Anonymous No.10474288]

>>10474257
I don't want to be typically masculine. In my opinion it just feels unnatural.

[Anonymous No.10474294]

>>10474288
Trannies...eww

[Anonymous No.10474333]

For anyone anyone who wants a nice read on Balenciaga, this bio is a great read. It goes into how convoluted his personal life was and how that effect his work. It's sad to see what a cash cow his house has become.
>tfw basic bitches think he's French

[Anonymous No.10474335]

>>10474233
How are tight pants not masculine? I like pants that actually shapes to my legs, baggy pants just don't look good aesthetically, and there's nothing inherently masculine or feminine about this.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10474453]

>>10473742

And do you think that London is really more outrageous?
No. That’s London’s image. That’s what London is trying to be. But to me it’s all very calculating, because creativity does not just mean being ‘crazy’. Creativity is a bit more than that. You need direction; you need structure; you need a voice and you need to have something to say… London sometimes gets these things mixed up; they confuse creation for creation’s sake with being really creative. I don’t think they’re the same thing. For example, I think Lanvin has one of the most creative collections anywhere, and I don’t think it’s ‘crazy’ at all; it’s all very structured – the detail, the color and all those kinds of things…

Don’t you think that London is more experimental?
They can be experimental because they aren’t under any pressure to make money. At the end of the day, in Paris even if there is a lot of creativity, everything is wearable, you know?

I think there it’s more risky to show a collection there [sic] which has fifteen different looks. Paris is cool; if you succeed in Paris, you’ll be successful everywhere.
Yes, but it’s not quite like that. You have to work to make it to Paris, whereas you don’t have to work to make it to London; you finish school and you do a fashion show…

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10474456]

>>10474453

That’s true…

Not everybody is ready for their own fashion show. You have to reach a certain level and invest a lot of money to do a show here. And that’s the difference for me: London is the ‘pre-Paris’ level and most of the time… well in the last few years some of them have been staying over there until they reach the level they need, and then they come over here, so it’s difficult to compare.

It’s like a completely different thing: it’s like, New York is all about networking, Milan is business, and Paris is creativity. London is craziness, of course…

But I can’t understand how buyers go to London for five days, and they buy one label, and then the next year they drop it, and buy a different one. They don’t do any real business over there, and that’s the problem. As a label, having ten shops means nothing, having twenty shops means nothing. I mean you can’t even finance yourself with twenty shops! That’s the problem they have: that you have to distinguish between craziness and just having fun, which you should do at school, not later on. And they need to think more professionally. I think that is what English designers lack in most cases. But I don’t believe it’s their fault; it’s the fault of the system. It’s a system that gives them the chance to be a fashion designer far too early. I can understand shops looking for new designers, but there needs to be a balance, because there are a lot of designers who are suffering and fighting for that.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10474458]

>>10474456

What about your future plans?

It means a lot to me that we started something new last year, and we need to establish it, and get the process right. I want to expand the womenswear collection and the Silent (basic line) collection because it’s good for the market: and those are the plans.

Well… This has been quite a long interview!

Now you have to choose the good bits (Laughs)…

Thank you very much – and good luck with your womenswear collection!

Thank you!

[Anonymous No.10474585]

>>10474333
thoughts on demna gvasalias as balenciagas creative director?

[Anonymous No.10474597]

>>10473063
just ordered blood beneath the skin and the rick owens coffee table book.
really excited to read the mcqueen bio.

[Anonymous No.10474607]

>>10474458
great interview, thanks for posting dreez

[Anonymous No.10474688]

>>10474458
based Dreez

[Anonymous No.10474732]

>>10474585
I don't think he has enough of a developed sense of taste for Balenciaga. Looking at his past collections, none of it is cohesive. Like how you had floral granny dresses in the same FW collection as sports chic. I feel like what style he does have developed will not mesh very well with Balenciaga's, as Balenciaga is a luxe brand aimed at generally older women, while his own label seems to appeal to the younger crowd. Almost anything is better than the yawn fest that was Alexander Wang though.

[Anonymous No.10474740]

>>10473742
Does [sic] mean here in Latin? Otherwise I don't get what that is.

[Anonymous No.10474744]

>>10474197
The only argument people have against slp is that it is always the same look. But that's fine with me because I love the look and I can't find it anywhere really

[Anonymous No.10474751]

>>10474197
Not men's, but AF Vandevorst also does that whole 'luxe heroin chic' style while also consistently being interesting by exploring new materials and silhouettes. You can see that they really put a lot of effort into every little design whereas SLP skates away with doing very little in terms of garment detail and construction.

[Anonymous No.10474783]

>>10474732
thanks for your insight!

[Anonymous No.10474823]

Guys, how do I learn more about high fashion? Have been reading articles and stuff posted here and looking through collections by different designers to try get a feel for it, enjoying myself so far but wondering if there's some general intro guide or advice or anything like that I'm missing. Thanks, keep up the great threads.

[Anonymous No.10474831]

>>10474823
Browse the designer threads on SZ.
Read some books, can personally recommend 'Belgian Fashion Design'

[Anonymous No.10474835]

>>10474823
Actually make an effort and own/look at clothing from your favorite designers irl. Don't be those fuccbois who say they love SLP or RO when they've never owned or touched a piece of their clothing.

[prettymotherfvcker No.10474876]

>>10473447
want this fit so bad.

also what's everyones opinion on christian dada?

[prettymotherfvcker No.10474880]

>>10474333
everyone thinks big fashion house designers based in europe are either french or italian.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10474949]

>>10474607
>>10474688
glad you liked it, might post another one from A magazine UC issue with Jun Takahashi later(thankfully in image form, I think..)

>>10474732
I think at the very least it won't be boring

He has some previous experience from LV so I think he has some insight into how the luxury brands work, guess it could be very different at Balenciaga but still something to keep in mind

>>10474740
It means "thus it was written" or whatever in english, used after errors in a quote or similar to point out that it was originally an error, not something that was added later

not an expert on this stuff so maybe someone needs to correct me but that's the gist of it

>>10474823
Nothing beats actually seeing the stuff for yourself, images often can't convey it all

Personally I think it's best to find a favorite designer, doesn't matter much who but something/someone who intrigues you and focus more of your learning efforts to learn stuff about them and their work. Easier and probably a faster process than trying to get into everything at the same time

Obviously better to pick someone well known that there's easily available info about when starting out

[Anonymous No.10474991]

If I just buy and wear random clothes to simulate high/designer fashion, will I end up looking like an absolute idiot? Because some of the things I've worn seem, to me at least, viable outfits for going out with.

[Anonymous No.10475045]

>>10473028
very nice

[Chuck !w1Bug5WJHk No.10475084]

>>10474991
Trust your instincts and make sure you're realistic with how you look. Most people into high fashion already have a good sense of balance already. If you really have doubts just post here, there's way to few people showing off their threads.

[Anonymous No.10475090]

>>10474991
Depends on what kind of style you want to emulate. You can totally get away with copying SLP's style with thrifted clothing, or achieve a Yohji look with oversized pieces.

[Couture Casserolejustaboy311 No.10475106]

>>10474876
I'm honestly not so sure my opinion on him is relevant just because he's instrumental to a lot of Japanese streetstyle I have liked over the past 4 or so years (five now?) he's been putting out material. I feel like a lot of designers like Dada function more to extract "raw material" from cloth/leather/etc. so the Japanese fashion scene can compose it into something "finished." I think there is a strong /cgl/ impulse of coordinating and composing along these lines, which is no surprise seeing as they share sub-cultures that intersect with Dada's mainstays. Japanese designers in particular are very good at deflecting hasty criticism in this way. The street always decides their fate.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10475123]

Oh well, that's what I get for posting as soon as I wake up. Into trash that tripcode goes.

Anyway...

>>10474876
I'm honestly not so sure my opinion on him is relevant just because he's instrumental to a lot of Japanese streetstyle I have liked over the past 4 or so years (five now?) he's been putting out material. I feel like a lot of designers like Dada function more to extract "raw material" from cloth/leather/etc. so the Japanese fashion scene can compose it into something "finished." I think there is a strong /cgl/ impulse of coordinating and composing along these lines, which is no surprise seeing as they share sub-cultures that intersect with Dada's mainstays. Japanese designers in particular are very good at deflecting hasty criticism in this way. The street always decides their fate.

I'd be interested to hear if there is, at all, local criticism of designers of this nature. From my position, again, I'm not sure if what I could say matters to what is made of his work in Japan.

[Anonymous No.10475126]

>>10474831
SZ = style zeitgeist, right? i had a look at their forums and i'm keen. none of the images in the threads i looked at worked but that could definitely be an issue on my end. thanks for the response!

>>10474835
ideally i would like to be able to do this. but my city is remote and quite small so i'm already at a disadvantage here, and currently i'm poor asf so affording designer can be an issue. i can find accessories ie bags and stuff definitely, pieces are just harder to find. but i'm also a travel nut so hopefully i can make it to the fashion capitals of the world eventually. thank you!!

>>10474949
that's a really excellent tip, i'm looking forwards to doing a bit of research on the labels and designers i'm interested in. i have spots of info about specific collections or ideas in my head so i'm glad there's an easier way to flesh that out rather than scrolling through album on album of collections. obviously i would prefer to see these clothes up close but it's not a feasible option for me at this point unfortunately so my introduction to fashion has to be web based for now. thank you so much for your help!!

[Anonymous No.10475156]

>>10474294
No, I'm just a non-masculine guy.

[Anonymous No.10475163]

>>10474751
Thanks. While I value the other replies, this is exactly what I was looking for. I will definitely look into AF Vandevorst.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475270]

>>10475126
yes on the first part, Thefashionspot is also a very good resource

images are probably just old and died along the way

Second hand market (i.e ebay) might be worth looking into eventually, wouldn't start buying there right off the bat though because you need to be able to tell what items are worth+what's actually good

but it's worth looking at the stuff at the very least

+you may get to see older stuff that might not even have been on the runway


>>10474991
If you're new to designer fashion I think you should be a bit patient, but if you know exactly how you want to dress go for it

try not to dive too deep to fast though

If you want something off the runway see if you can find pictures of an actual person wearing it first, might give ideas and inspiration on how you could work it into your everyday wear

No matter what you wear confidence is key to making it look good

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475361]

>>10473028
>>10475045
dries aw 05

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475366]

>>10475361

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475378]

>>10475366

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475382]

>>10475378

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475385]

>>10475382

[Anonymous No.10475446]

POST YOUR CLOTHES PLEASE

ANYTHING, FITS OR INDIVIDUAL PIECES JUST POST IT

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10475469]

>>10475446
Because it's fall, here's my favorite knit. Suzuki Takayuki. Can't think of the season right now. Looks absolutely wild dressed up/down (hard to say there's a direction to this garment.)

[Anonymous No.10475498]

>>10475469
Damn that's dope as fuck

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475507]

>>10475446
can't take any(decent)pics right now

Just gonna post a few things of the runway that I have for now

dries ss12 cotton knit, 'patchwork' construction very nicely done

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475526]

>>10475507
dries fw14 patterned wool bomber, alpaca collar

beautifully textured

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475544]

>>10475526
Jil sander fw07

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475549]

>>10475544
Navy wool with a 'liner' just around the opening in an acetate blend, I think it's some metal fibre in there too but caretags just says "other fibres" so idk

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475567]

>>10475549
Also this, but in the white colourway

dries ss15

Insane handmade embroideries

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475572]

>>10475567
close up of the version I have

done posting clothes for now

[Anonymous No.10475578]

>>10475446
Undercover dress I picked up NWT from an consignment store. My first piece from them. The construction and material are really well thought out.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475589]

A magazine Undercover issue

Interview with Jun Takahashi

>>10475578
Perfect timing to post UC, very nice piece as well

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475592]

>>10475589

[Anonymous No.10475594]

Probably one of my favorite shows. Valentino spring '15 haute couture collection.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475599]

>>10475592

[Anonymous No.10475605]

>>10475589
Jesus I hate it when the interviewer dominates the interview. Let the guy speak for god's sake.

[Anonymous No.10475615]

>>10475592
>I'm not interested with the US
Kek
Wish I see Ann's garden too.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475625]

>>10475605
Always got the sense that he doesn't really like interviews, even the answers to longer questions are quite short

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475684]

Another interview with Jun

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/16407/1/qa-jun-takahashi

More people should post stuff, doesn't matter what, just post something you like, something you read etc..

[Anonymous No.10475846]

I thought Rafs muh modern femininity wwas captured very well in the recent Dior collection. The translucent looks were my favorite as the seeming and view of the body are obviously very feminine, but the silhouette is obviously very altered. Also can someone elaborate on who does Haute Couture still? I guess that goes on this upcoming week? Have always been pretty confused by fashion week timing in general tbh. Seems like happen like all summer. Which are the most relevant for womenswear and menswear?

[Anonymous No.10475850]

[Anonymous No.10475855]

[Anonymous No.10475931]

How do I become avant garde on a budget?

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10475977]

>>10475846
>Which are the most relevant for womenswear and menswear?

Depends. For me, menswear showings(january/june) and womens rtw(march/september) are the main ones

Think the couture isn't until later this year or even early next year?

The translucent stuff remind me of his ss08 at jil, even though it doesn't have much in common outside of that

>>10475931
second hand market? guess thrifting/diy could be an option if you're crafty

also depends on what look you're going for

[Anonymous No.10475994]

>>10475931
Second hand. Be patient. More patience. Wait, and wait, and wait. Also be sure you know what retail prices were originally so you can have an idea of "worth", especially if you don't have a set of definite cops you'd get at any price (this will probably be the case in time as you tire and change tastes whilst waiting for a single piece to show up that released a decade ago. Eventually you'll just start resting your eyes on other, appealing things.)

[Anonymous No.10476038]

>>10475931
Depends on the budget. My entire collection consists of 6 suits, 5 separate pants, ~30 shirts, 4 knits (I hate knitwear), 6 separate jackets (bomber likes for example), 2 overcoats (both half canvass construction) and 6 pairs of shoes and I havent bought a single piece outside of sale. The 30% really does a lot and there hardly ever, if ever are pieces that really are sold out pre sale. If youre really lucky you can snatch some pieces for 50% off but that hardly ever happens because you'd have to wait for 2 months after the sales start. Unfortunately all the interesting stuff tends to be sold out by that time.

However, doing this is definitely easier if you know which brands to trust or rely on. My entire wardrobe basically consists of Paul Smith Mainline, Marni and some Valentino and Lanvin pieces here and there.

[Anonymous No.10476179]

>39 posts by Dreez alone

others need to contrib, and Dreez needs to get out and get some air

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10476291]

>>10476179
:^)

here tonight but you won't see me for the rest of the weekend

[Anonymous No.10476400]

>>10475270
gorgeous, thanks for your advice!! i've always been a bit wary of ebay because of fakes and rip off artists and all that. is it easy to spot dodgy stuff online when it comes to designer clothes? fake bags etc. i'm pretty confident with but clothes are like something different entirely. i got a second hand DKNY coat from an op shop the other day which was nice, especially because i needed a coat anyway. thanks so much for your help :)

[Couture Casserole !!/zslVvrUC+v No.10476448]

>>10476400
Honestly, so long as you're not buying very surface level designers or things celebrities have pub'd, you'll be fine in regard to fakes. Like, even in Gulou/Zoo (Beijing) where there's a lot of fake fashion (beyond LV et al.) you'll not find anything like Dreez's Dries pieces or whatever else makes up the bread and butter output of designers. It's simply a non-factor. Consider >>10473213 some of the Basso and Brooke pieces here. There's a lone piece, in one size, from the collection on ebay right now. There's hardly enough interest or hype to profiteer. Consider that many times the fake-maker knows as little about fashion as /fa/ does. 99% of designers will be safe from the repo man.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10476709]

>>10476400

>>10476448 summed it up pretty well I think

Being wary is always good though


Good article on HL's influence

http://qz.com/355718/a-decade-after-he-left-fashion-helmut-lang-is-still-one-of-the-worlds-most-influential-designers/

[Anonymous No.10476880]

>>10476448
That's an excellent point, thanks so much for taking the time to write that out. So basically if I avoid the super mainstream stuff I should be good? That's great to hear, most of the people I know have a pretty negative view on ebay but then again most of them don't have much of an interest in fashion. Thanks again for the response!!
>>10476709
>>10476448
Also, you guys seem to know a lot, how long have you been into fashion? Are you studying it or is it more of a hobby thing for you?

[Anonymous No.10476927]

>>10476709
Fantastic read. I knew Helmut Lang was influential but I didn't realise to what extent, wow.

[Anonymous No.10477146]

Anyone know any nice designer hooded bomber jackets that go for about 500 USD?

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477207]

>>10477146
style/material?

[Anonymous No.10477246]

>>10477207
Ideally the style would be that of the acne hydra bomber but not shit quality, looking for winter usage, so down/wool would be great kinda like ricks flight bombers.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477295]

>>10477246
Ah, well, for the "technical"/MA-1 style black bomber (with a wool foundation), I'd say the first thing that comes to mind is KKA, especially his release maybe two years ago. Think they retailed for about 750, so resale should be pretty close. It was a pretty popular garment.

https://www.grailed.com/listings/224292-attachment-padded-ma-1-bomber-jacket There's a small on grailed. And a medium on yahoo.jp http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e169829747

I'll have to think about alternatives. Bombers are not really in my wheelhouse of familiarity, at least nothing I keep mental records of.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477311]

>>10477295
Oh yah, and in a similar vein, nonnative wool bombers/MA-1s are another strong choice as a "staple." I'm surprised we don't see more people mentioned nonnative around here. Not a very "exclusive" brand and not hard to come by, but very, very sturdy garments in a fairly /fa/ style.

[Anonymous No.10477316]

>>10477295
>>10477311
Really appreciate the help, but I'm looking for a hooded one, so not an MA-1 but an N2-B
https://www.grailed.com/listings/144184-helmut-lang-n2b-parka
is my grail but he's not taking less than 800USD which is out of my range

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477350]

>>10477316
Ah, ok, ok, I see. I am 99% KKA also released an N2b in that same collection, so I suppose that point still stands. N2bs...that's a tough one. Much more streetwear style, tend not to see that show up in what I look out for.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477370]

>>10477350
http://www.nonnative.com/nonnative_2010aw/hunter-down-jacket-64-cloth/

and nonnative's vaguely similar offering (not sure if I care for it, but I felt obligated to cover what I also rec'd for an MA-1)

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477387]

>>10477350
http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p492652423

Just gave a quick look and it seems there's one available in a small. Dunno how frequently these pop up.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10477393]

>>10477387
http://page15.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t449023695

And a Lad Musician offering linked from that one. Lazy suggestion, but I can vouch that they'll be a pretty equivalent quality.

[Anonymous No.10477960]

>

[Anonymous No.10478005]

>>10474744
>because I love the look and I can't find it anywhere really

is this a joke?

[Anonymous No.10478007]

>>10477146
A little over budget here but mb the Geller emile bomber or something like it? think they go for about 750 but you could probably buy it when sales come around i'd wager

[Anonymous No.10478011]

What do you think about Vêtements guy becoming the new creative director for Balenciaga? This seems kind of like a clash of different philosophies, but it seems to for Raf and Dior (in my opinion at least), so maybe it will work here,too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoRGRWgdwqU

[Anonymous No.10478014]

>>10478011
it seems to me a clash of philosophies moreso than Raf at Dior, but I'm not very experienced with this, so i'm definitely open to it turning out very well

[Anonymous No.10478018]

>>10478011
>what kind of jeans do you want fam?
>just a pair for 1400 bucks

[Anonymous No.10478021]

>>10478011
i think wang at balenciaga was more raf at dior than demna at balenciaga

demna designs such outrageous garments for vetements i'm not sure if he'll be able to fit balenciaga's blueprint, though his resume at lv and margiela do have me hesitant to truly judge before anything is unveiled.

[Anonymous No.10478045]

>>10477393
Oh my god thank you so much this lad musician is amazing, hope I win it.

[Anonymous No.10478118]

Seems like another attempt by balenciaga to latch on to something trendy and new. Theres not really much of an image left so Demna can pretty much rebrand it how he likes. A lot Cristobal's archive seems like it would be pretty intersting deconstructed. And ultimately Im sure it will sell very well.

[Anonymous No.10478240]

There's no recent cops thread in the catalog, I hope you don't mind me posting here.
Got this Margiela sweater in the mail today, but it's too large for me me I think. The wool is incredible though. What's /fa/'s opinion?

[Anonymous No.10478248]

>>10478240
Might also resell for what I paid + shipping

[Anonymous No.10478255]

>>10478240
Really nice, I find most of the Margiela stuff on grailed really fucking boring

[Anonymous No.10478297]

>>10478240
gorgeous, such a shame it doesn't fit :(

[Anonymous No.10478302]

>>10478297
The tag says M but the actual fit is large.
There's no way to tailor such thing, isn't it?

[Anonymous No.10478315]

>>10478302
I'm quite new to fashion so I'm not sure. My initial reaction would be no because of the wool but possibly you could? I know that's not helpful at all, wait for a second opinion. For your sake I hope you can, but if not you should at least be able to resell it quite easily, even though that'll be disappointing to have to do. :)

[Anonymous No.10478384]

>>10478302
I've heard people talk about shrinking wool as a sort of way to tailor it, this might work if you do it right

[Anonymous No.10478566]

Ive really been loving Tillman Lauterbach lately. His use fabric and silhouette is amazing.

[Anonymous No.10478570]

>>10478566
SS14

[Anonymous No.10478575]

>>10478566

[Anonymous No.10478588]

more lauterbach

[Anonymous No.10478597]

>>10478566
Right now im very intersted in Lemaire and Lauterbach. What are some other designers like them?

[Anonymous No.10478602]

>>10478566
what a fucking mess

[Anonymous No.10478615]

>>10478602
I agree that collection needed coherence, but his more recent stuff is much better

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478661]

ModaLisboa going on now, fam

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478671]

>>10478661

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478676]

>>10478671
I like this print. Wish it wasn't wasted in the form its in...

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478682]

>>10478676
neat shoes

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478686]

>>10478682

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478694]

>>10478686

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478706]

>>10478694
Just love this jacket zipped onto jacket. Great take on the fishtail parka.

Still waiting for photos to come up for a lot of designers...

[Laserface !/VJxsUn3ao No.10478733]

>>10474183
Probably some form of agora wool?

Tatsuro is fucking insane when it comes to textiles, never had two pieces with the same composition

[Anonymous No.10478778]

>>10473236
yeah because more shit trips on this board is a fantastic idea

[Anonymous No.10478789]

>>10475625
>>10475605
This. Look at how Jun is answering the questions it's pretty obvious he isn't overjoyed at being interviewed. He's being polite but not talkative.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10478793]

>>10478778
As long as people aren't posting outside the general and tripping for the specific purpose of representation for ease of communication I don't see the problem. This has been done with success since the site's existence (there used to be a LOT more, but post-2007/8 and with the "casualization" of 4chan there was a stronger reactionary movement against the practice as newcomers treated it as a standard username that they were familiar with from other sites.) If it seems like posting under a name is going to monopolize opinion and attention then I'll drop it, but I think a general like this stands far more to gain by self-identification practices than forgoing them.

polite sage

[Anonymous No.10478811]

>>10475572
>>10475567
>>10475549
>>10475544
>>10475526
>>10475507
Fuck I love Dries so much, I'm constantly surprised by how fucking consistent he is. Every show can just be expected to be good. That being said his past shows have been breathtaking especially ss15 and fw15. Got to handle some of the gigantic coats from fw15 that are literally embroidered from top to bottom like thay shirt of yours. I was so entranced that this coat was real and not something you only see in pictures, I just kind of there for 10 minutes feeling it. This was all in the flagship store in Antwerp, God that entire place was just so fucking nice.
>pic related

I feel as I grow older my wardrobe is just going to become an odd mix of mostly Rick and Dries, maybe a few others but I just love how consistent both of them are. Albeit consistent in very different ways.

[Anonymous No.10478844]

>>10478811
>mix of mostly Rick and Dries

ew

[Anonymous No.10478855]

>>10478811
>my wardrobe is just going to become an odd mix of mostly Rick and Dries
That doesnt work... like at all.

[6BoxxyTum=>6BoxxyTum No.10478887]

did anyone go to p/m/l/nyfw?
i only saw recaps from wgsn :(
how was it :)

[Anonymous No.10478898]

>>10478855
>>10478844
It can very easily :)

[Anonymous No.10480115]

Bump

[Anonymous No.10480473]

bumping best thread on /fa/

[Anonymous No.10480531]

>>10474233

> fat bigoted bitch is upset that guys look better in skinny jeans and drop crotch than she does

this isn't the right place for you, i think

[STHLM - ストックホルム !EFFAYoZx0A No.10480537]

>>10478778
>>10478793
Somewhat relevant...

A survey I did on /fa/ a couple of weeks ago showed that 56% of respondents think that tripcodes (in general) should remain on the board - 44% thought they should be removed.

475 participants. Full results probably available within a week or so.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480609]

>>10478011
I'm curious what the kering guys are thinking, seeing as he has been compared with Margiela(and having worked for them), are they hoping it will turn out similarly to Margielas appointment at Hermes? Both had people surprised

Or are they maybe just going with the hype?

Think it's the latter but still interesting

I think it has potential anyways

>>10478240
think this thread should be about pretty much anything related to designers and their stuff, will get boring if the scope is too narrow

>>10478302
Depends, knitwear can generally be tailored to some extent(I reckon your average tailor won't do it though, might have to find a specialist)

How much difference can be made if any depends a bit on material composition, natural fibers make it easier and synthetics are harder

Not sure about yours but i'd guess alpaca blend?

If you're serious about alterations you could try asking a tailor for recommendations on where to go(or if they could do it)

I imagine most high end department stores could also point you in the right direction

might just be more trouble than it's worth I guess

for what it's worth that kind of sweater is perfect for wearing oversized imo

>>10478045
it's cool godspeed

>>10478566
lots of cool individual pieces, really liked what i've handled from him

>>10478597
Lucio Vanotti maybe? Check thecorner. Have also heard honor gathering(Jap brand, try y!jp) being recommended for that kind of style

>>10478694
really cool actually

>>10478811
>mostly Rick and Dries

sounds interesting

can't think of having seen that mixed outside of basics from one or the other

floral bomber with dunks and dropcrotch stuff?

and yes, the embellished stuff is amazing tried out two different versions

Haven't bought anything from this season so far, going to Paris in a while so might be coming up

On the consistency part the last show was actually the one i've liked the least in a long while, still some cool stuff though

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480614]

Small thing on ccp

>>10480609
long ass post

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480675]

yohji yamamoto aw 2000

amazing collection

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480681]

>>10480675

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480684]

>>10480681

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480687]

>>10480684

[STHLM - ストックホルム !EFFAYoZx0A No.10480691]

>>10480614
Titta förbi #effay förresten om du har lust.
Du verkar ha rätt dygnsrytm för kanalen.
Aktiviteten fluktuerar, men det är bara att idla lite och se.
Rätt långsamt på helger.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480714]

>>10480687


>>10480691
Bara på helger normalt sett, men ska spana in

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480718]

>>10480714

[Anonymous No.10480755]

Raf Simons jeans, are they worth the price? Better than other European produced jeans like acne?

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480763]

>>10480718

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480768]

>>10480763

[Anonymous No.10480771]

>>10480755
acne jeans are not produced in europe

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480783]

>>10480768


>>10480771
that depends on where in turkey they're made(they are still made in turkey right?)

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480786]

>>10480783

[Anonymous No.10480787]

>>10480783

mine say made in albania

[Anonymous No.10480792]

>>10480684
>>10480687

I'm usually opposed to use of fur, but I love this look. The dress is gorgeous.

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480815]

>>10480786

>>10480787
are they older or newer? Not particularly surprised if production is spread out though, so it probably depends

>>10480792
the wolf fur is fake so you're in luck, the foxy looking ones like in >>10480714 aren't though(if I remember correctly)

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480821]

>>10480815

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480827]

>>10480821

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480831]

>>10480827

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480834]

>>10480831

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480839]

>>10480834

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480846]

>>10480839

[Anonymous No.10480847]

>>10480815
That's great. I'm pretty shit at telling the difference to be honest, thanks for telling me :) loving this collection so far, thanks for dumping pics

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480861]

>>10480846


>>10480847
I wouldn't have known either if i hadn't read about it

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480864]

>>10480861

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480867]

>>10480864

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10480874]

>>10480867
and the man himself, looking slick

[Anonymous No.10481190]

I would wear the fuck out of that Yohji collection.

[Anonymous No.10481684]

>

[Anonymous No.10481741]

In the interest of keeping this thread going, how do you guys feel about the modern concept of designer names and brands. Like Demna and Vetements how he says it's a team effort. Or Margiela's "we" and lack of public image before him. Is the industry over saturated enough where no new "big names" will emerge in the future?

[Anonymous No.10481750]

>>10481741
>Is the industry over saturated enough where no new "big names" will emerge in the future?
No, all anyone cares about is the individual designer. Designers have become reality stars (see: Olivier, Riccardo, and Alex).

If you've ever worked in the industry you know that a lot of designers have a creative team to help pitch ideas, design, and clean up the lead designer's sketches. It's the business, it's a team effort and not the work of an individual.

[Anonymous No.10481752]

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/224/1/a-conversation-with-ann-demeulemeester
"the most sensual thing is always the thing you hide; don't confuse vulgarity for sexuality"
>based Ann

[Anonymous No.10481758]

>>10481750
Right, but I think gvasalia is going beyond a team like that to a more collaborative design space. It does seem like designer celebrity's will always exist but maybe lose prominence at least?

[Anonymous No.10481759]

>>10481741
The way Margiela and Vetements tried or try to refrain from obvious branding and big names is basically a way of branding,too. Like people were supposed to cut off the tags of Margiela pieces, but never do because you can see that it's Margiela by the white stitching alone. And now with Galliano as creative director it's basically the opposite of the original ethos anyway.

And Vetements slaps its name on everything anyway.

[Anonymous No.10481762]

>>10481758
but that's exactly what it is, a collaborative design space. the marketing team of these companies would like you to believe that the creative director is doing everything on his own, but that's rarely, if ever, the case.

i don't think the celebrity aspect of designers will ever dwindle. it's going to continue to become the focus of the marketing teams, as is the case with balmain and olivier.
olivier's instagram alone is proof that followers of fashion of all sorts want a celebrity at the helm

[Anonymous No.10481763]

>>10473138
I have that shirt, feels good

[Anonymous No.10481764]

>>10481741
>>10481759
How is John even doing as Margiela? Is he given the freedom to create more interesting pieces than he did at Dior?
His last few years there were probably his worst, it's almost a good thing he was fired.

[Anonymous No.10481776]

>>10481764
I honstely ask myself who even still bought Margiela (other than sneakers) before Galliano took over? The menswear especially was so incredibly bland. I don't think Galliano is right for Margiela at all (even though Margiela himself approved it), but at least it's a bit more interesting again. But he's basically just continuing to design the same way he designed for Dior. He doesn't really respect the heritage of the house, he just does his thing. Throwing in some tabi boots or use a bit of pvc and white on some pieces doesn't make it Margiela.

[Anonymous No.10481780]

>>10481776
>He doesn't really respect the heritage of the house, he just does his thing.
but if he followed the margiela blueprint people's critiques would be "He doesn't even add to the heritage of the house, he just refurbishes old designs"

[Anonymous No.10481788]

>>10481776
I guess he can afford to do that when he's basically working for a house with no image.
It's funny how people are still getting over the shock of having him leave Dior, and allowing it to return to its classic roots. Boring as it may be to look at a Dior show in motion, and as terrible as some of Bill Gaytten's work was (see pic), I prefer it after the change.

[Anonymous No.10481805]

>>10481780
there's gotta be a happy medium somewhere my dude. That's what designing is all about, individually choosing and interpreting references, not just pasting references on to your work.

[Anonymous No.10481812]

>>10481805
when people have a romanticized view of a label, there is no happy medium for a designer.
you can't make everyone happy.

[Anonymous No.10481879]

>>10481752
more people need to hear that i think

[Anonymous No.10482204]

Remember guys posting anything at all related to high fashion is encouraged, we're reasonably friendly to people interested, I think

[Anonymous No.10482255]

>>10480609
thanks man. you really came through with the advice. we need more people like you on this board

[Anonymous No.10482286]

>>10472988
what the fuck is that thing in the background? why is it at a fashion show

[Anonymous No.10482287]

Just copped this for a bargain, Raf SS03

[Anonymous No.10482314]

>>10482287
Good show, gross piece

[Anonymous No.10482393]

>>10482286
tell me more about all the fashion shows you go to

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10482475]

>>10481752
Good stuff, always liked Ann(pic her and Dries, 1987)

>>10482204
seconded

Cathy Horyn article on Rei

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/31/fashion/rei-kawakubo-of-comme-des-garcons-veiled-like-mona-lisa.html?_r=0

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10482480]

[Anonymous No.10482482]

>>10482475
That picture is amazing, she just seems so happy, wow made my day anon

[Anonymous No.10482493]

Is this really him?

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10482513]

>>10482482

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10482533]

Anyone have this thing, and is it worth the bother?

not expensive or hard to get so might order it anyways just curious

can recommend the Taschen books for yy and rei, for anyone interested. At the very least it's nice seeing some old images blown up on the big ass pages

[Anonymous No.10482551]

>>10482533
the fact that they put fucking kate moss wearing a pink bow on the cover always made me think this can't be good

[Anonymous No.10482811]

>>10482551
then maybe you shouldn't...

judge a book by its cover

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483078]

Nothing spectacular, but some more ModaLisboa

Fun embossing here

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483084]

>>10483078
To all those with the raf stan smiths...

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483088]

>>10483084
Selected this only for the footwear. The silver tipped strap is nice.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483100]

>>10483088
Love this bottom/shoe combination on this. Top just looks like a perfunctory way to make use of the textiles he had leftover.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483110]

>>10483100
Mostly just like the sock/suit interplay here.

[Couture Casserole !!ITZ/O1FQ0S2 No.10483115]

>>10483110
Love this pattern. Another case where I wish it was used more effectively. So boring here. Oh well.

And that's all I have for today.

[Anonymous No.10483155]

>>10474335

[Anonymous No.10483653]

I want to thank every poster here for having this thread. These are the most, informative, clean and entertaining threads I've seen in a very very long time here. <3 <3 <3

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10483911]

>>10483100
like the trousers

Are you from Portugal? Curious because I don't think i've ever seen any (fashion)pics from there posted before

>>10482551
Bought it, might post some kind of minireview once I get it

Ordering some other stuff so why not..

If anyone is interested amazon got it for like £10

[Anonymous No.10483991]

>>10480815
>are they older or newer?

they're ~2yrs old

made in Europe is a bit of misnomer though

[Anonymous No.10484010]

I've been thinking a lot about Stephan Schneider recently.

Truth be told I love a lot of his collections - namely his winter ones (I'm looking at you Winter Weeds) but something about him just didn't seem to click for me until really recently. He sorts of sits in the vague middle ground between designer runway fashion (as far as I know he's never done a runway show) and the European 'basics' brands (APC, Acne etc). One one end he uses quite experimental distinctive silhouettes but on the other his focus on fabric - especially wool similar to #menswear. Then on the other his sartorial influences and general attention to detail is very Japanese. He's carved out a very unique niche. I think that's why I like him as a designer so much.

Anyway going to dump some Winter Weeds.

[Anonymous No.10484012]

>>10484010

[Anonymous No.10484017]

>>10484012

[Anonymous No.10484023]

>>10484017

[Anonymous No.10484028]

>>10484023

[Anonymous No.10484032]

>>10484028

[Anonymous No.10484035]

>>10484032

[Anonymous No.10484038]

>>10484035
do continue! or save some to kick off the next thread

[Anonymous No.10484042]

>>10484038

that's all of my favourites though

here are the rest

http://suspensionpoint.ca/stephan-schneider-fw14-lookbook

I'm going out for a durrie

[Anonymous No.10484282]

>>10482475
Good read, thanks for sharing.

[Anonymous No.10484886]

don't let it die friends

[Anonymous No.10485494]

>>10484010
I loved this collection, wanted this coat for ages

[Anonymous No.10485842]

>>10476709
god damn it nobody comes close to lang

[Anonymous No.10485850]

>>10477316
>https://www.grailed.com/listings/144184-helmut-lang-n2b-parka
fuck and i thought that virginia creeper bomber's hood was innovative...
lang did it all already FUCK

[Anonymous No.10485857]

>>10478887
hey i rememebr you

[Anonymous No.10485859]

>>10485850
lol that's what i thought when i saw that too

[Anonymous No.10485861]

Has that model guy been around here lately? He was really down to earth, it was good talking to him

[Anonymous No.10485863]

>>10485850
1. The split open hood has been done on jackets since like the 60s
2. That's post-Helmut Helmut
You clearly don't know a fucking thing

[Anonymous No.10485867]

>>10485861
Samefag

[Anonymous No.10485894]

>>10485863
>https://www.grailed.com/listings/144184-helmut-lang-n2b-parka
wow dude you sound kind of mad rn,

also if lang didnt do it wats the chance raf would have did it? 0.2%

[Anonymous No.10485898]

good rakuten stores?????????????????????????????????????????????????????

[Anonymous No.10485901]

>>10485894
I think he means that this particular Lang piece came out after Raf did it

Idk if Lang did it while he worked at the label

[Anonymous No.10485906]

>>10474183
im guessing its a viscoce blend

[Anonymous No.10485931]

>>10485894
You are literally retarded
>>10485901
I'm saying the jacket is post 2005. How hard is that to understand?

[Anonymous No.10485936]

>>10485931
I understand you bro chill, that's pretty much what I said

[intern !!gcSycT7bcc4 No.10485937]

>>10478733
>>10485906
you guys both named fibers and not fabrics :/

[Anonymous No.10485946]

>>10485867
Nah nah, I'm talking about that slp model, haven't heard of him being around here for a couple months

[Anonymous No.10485965]

>>10485946
Thay guy was a massive narcassist and samefag

[Anonymous No.10485969]

>>10484012
grail coat right here
>>10484010
he has done numerous runway shows, they just arent really marketed a lot

[Anonymous No.10485972]

>>10485965
Oh, for real? That's a shame, I thought he seemed pretty relaxed.

[Anonymous No.10485973]

>>10485937
its hard to name the fabric without knowing where he sources it from

[Anonymous No.10485976]

Time for new thread friends

[Anonymous No.10485977]

>>10485937
brown satin or sateen

[Anonymous No.10485984]

>>10484012
Have that coat. Its amazing

[intern !!gcSycT7bcc4 No.10485990]

>>10485973
not necessarily
i suck at identifying fabrics but i know some design students who could probably name 3 fabrics that could possibly be used
>>10485977
i was thinking that but it looks knit
satin is a type of weave structure and sateen is a woven fabric

[Anonymous No.10486399]

bump

[Anonymous No.10486881]

Do you guys wear bracelets from your favourite designers?

[Anonymous No.10486921]

just posting my SOTY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_rwp6bpRdI

The fist half is 10/10

[Dreez !!+Gq8VgQ7KrT No.10487301]

>>10487291