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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/fa/ - Fashion


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File: 1.59 MB, 1308x867, EG AW11 1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6932471 No.6932471[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

The following is Engineered Garments's AW 2011 collection.
Engineered Garments was established by Daiki Suzuki, falling under the Nepenthes roster of brands. Daiki's attention to detail and meticulous construction means that every piece is as much engineered as designed, hence the genesis of the name. Daiki draws inspiration from classic military wear, classic outdoorswear, heritage menswear and more, bringing together a subversive take on menswear that further blurs the line between "heritage" and "heritage-inspired".
This is easily one of my favorite collections, not only from Daiki, but in general - I love the use of tunics and cropped anoraks as mid-layers, and the whole collection is incredibly cohesive.
I will also be posting the current AW13 collection from Engineered Garments if time permits and there is interest.
I hope you enjoy!

>> No.6932472
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>> No.6932477
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>> No.6932482
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>> No.6932484
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>> No.6932487
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>> No.6932492
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>> No.6932493

I've always wondered how they compare to wings+horns
looks like a bit more attention to detail with about the same amount of function, but EG's clearly more forward with a lot of their design.
I only own a handful of W+H, do you own any of both?

>> No.6932496

thanks, I am in New York for a couple of days now, so I'm visiting the Nepenthes store today!

>> No.6932517
File: 1.65 MB, 1313x869, EG AW11 8.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
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>>6932493
I own a fair amount of Engineered Garments, and though I don't own any, I've had experience with a fair amount of Wings + Horn. I won't really knock Wings + Horn, though they're not really my thing. They provide a pretty decent take on modern menswear, much like Band of Outsider, their stuff is tailored well enough, and the quality is decent enough for the price, though I can't help but feel they lack character. And Engineered Garments is in no way lacking. Their attention to detailing is unparalleled, in terms of pocket cutting, the lining of certain garments, reversibility and the fantastic selection of patterns. And in terms of quality, they've been consistently fantastic for years. To a lot of people who are into the works of Rick Owens or Carol Christian Poell, Engineered Garments is rather "plain", but I feel that they offer one of the most subversive and unique takes on what I hesitate to call "classic" menswear. They bring so much uniqueness and creativity, drawing from so many reaches of classic menswear and realizing each piece in a fantastic way. Highly recommend, far more than Wings + Horns, personally.
>>6932496
Oh, that sounds fantastic! I'd check out Needles and South2West8, Needles does some fantastic deconsctructed work, but they get almost unfairly glossed over. And Nepenthes' in house label is pretty great as well, I really like what I've seen from their shirting. Also, cool thing to note, you might see Abdul, the man in the first picture, who has modeled for EG many times, is a worker at Nepenthes in NY and helps design EG with Daiki!

>> No.6932526
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>> No.6932534

>>6932517
very cool! Yeah, I've been checking out Needles a lot. the south2west8 bags look nice, been looking for a cool backpack for a while now. Are you familiar with New York, and other asian brands? I know that Head Porter had a store here, but they closed it, any place here to get it?

>> No.6932557
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>>6932534
South2West8 bags are fantastic, I'm actually going to buy them next time I have some money on hand.
Yeah, I have a blogger/photographer friend in New York, I'm rather knowledgable about places to check out.
Hickoree's in Brooklyn has a great selection of goods, including Kapital, Post Overalls and Battenwear, I really recommend you check them out.
I'll recommend the Comme des Garçons flagship, since it's an incredible retail space, and I'm an incredible fanboy. Dover Street Market is fantastic as well.
I'd recommend Opening Ceremony - they won't have the heritage brands Nepenthes and Hickoree's have, but they have a cool selection and staff.
Self Edge is a must for the denim inclined as well.

>> No.6932561
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>>6932534
Also, Inventory just opened a store in New York, if their in-store range matches their online range, I'd definitely give it your time as well.

>> No.6932566

>>6932477
>>6932484
Really dig that poncho(?)

>> No.6932567
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>> No.6932575
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>>6932517
thanks for your take, that's basically how I understood it, where W+H offers something like a (much) simpler and less expensive 'version' of similarly inspired pieces
I'd spare the use of the word 'version', but I couldn't discern some pieces from belonging to one brand over the other without handling it myself.
I still like W+H but I'm slowly leaning having towards more character in my style, this would be a good direction.
Though I wouldn't call this plain at all in fact it looks at least as forward as some of rick, it's just not dark.
I'm loving this shawl too. odds of me finding it?

>> No.6932582
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>>6932566
Yeah, I love the use of tunics/ponchos in this collection, they have some similar pieces this AW11 collection, though I've not seen many stockists for it yet.

>> No.6932594

Every time you do one of these threads I feel like I learn something.

Please don't stop.

>> No.6932601
File: 1.63 MB, 1311x868, EG AW11 14.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
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>>6932575
Try Yahoo!Japan, you'll never know, and best of luck to you.
Anyway, I'm just saying that Engineered Garments is frankly less conceptual and avant-garde than a designer like Yohji or Poell. Daiki is at heart a craftsman wishing to provide interesting and whimsical takes on menswear, but at the end of the day, it doesn't stray as far away from traditional menswear as Rick does from his sportswear/streetwear influences. I'm sorry that I'm not particularly articulate.
>>6932594
Thanks for that, I really appreciate it! But I think I might just post AW11 tonight, I really dislike the new timer sadly.

>> No.6932610
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And that marks the end of the collection, with specific references to all garments here.
As some of you may already know, you cannot buy Engineered Garments online from American retailers. However, many EU retailers such as Oi Polloi, The Garbstore, Antic Boutik and The Bureau Belfast stock Engineered Garments and sell online with international shipping. But as always, it pays to see items in person and get a feel with them, the same with any brand
I hope you enjoyed.

>> No.6932625
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Whatever, I have some free time, and this King Tubby compilation isn't over yet, so here's AW13 (the current collection) for anyone interested.
I hope you enjoy.

>> No.6932626
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>> No.6932630
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>> No.6932631

I feel like stuff from Yohji, Rick, or even W+H tend to last much longer though. Not as in quality, but in wearability due to the patterns and etc. as in it gets visually old more easily.

Do like it though.

>> No.6932634
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>> No.6932636

>>6932561
yeah thanks, planned on checking out inventory today, as for commes des garcon, I'm really not interested. bought a patrik ervell shirt at OC yesterday, cool store! I spent a day in Brooklyn already, so I won't bother going back. The Y-3 store in Soho was amazing. Honourable mention to Odin for carrying Philip Lim

>> No.6932639

yesss i've been waiting for this one, thank you m8
i've been on a bit of a quest to find vintage garments that look a little bit like brands like this, seeing as though i cannot afford a whole wardrobe by my favourite designers/brands

>> No.6932650
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Fucking moot.
Sorry guys, but these are taking far too long to upload, so I just uploaded them all to imgur.
Have a nice night!
http://imgur.com/rXrolG3,NgGkV1a,RtK4U7L,5XLr1ei,2fW1SxB,1NvvbUO,uZxOm3k,1wLp0ZM,BElt8o9,pGmRYfR,KkeOZKZ,Cp8HprS,xTZAS2d,KQ37yFZ,R3U7J4F,I9eDvWR,9Q3H1jb,NMBpYM4,ThQmP0X,iVe308H,PpNWrPA,HGK8BXu,f39u2pa,ki1FaHr,L7WHT1C,oywztch
>>6932636
How do you not like Junya Watanabe? I'm disgusted. I mean to each their own, but the design of the store itself is great, and Junya's current collection and the current Homme collection are really worth checking out.
Also, skipped over this one, but Tokio 7 is a must in terms of consigned clothes, fantastic selection and prices below retail, everything from Inverallan to Undercover, you really have to check them out.

>> No.6932662

>>6932631
you'd be referring to the pieces that actually incorporate patterns strictly?
can't really disagree, patterns can be overstimulating and in that sense lead to premature dispossession from your wardrobe.
Patterns are for people with a lot of character and disposable income/less concern for longevity in a wardrobe.

>> No.6932834

just wanted to say thank you for creating these posts and posts like them.