/fa/ - Fashion

Just realized I don't own any knit ties. I gotta fix that

There's a Korean show on Netflix called It's Okay To Not Be Okay and one of the guys in the show is always wearing these really nice suits and jackets, many of them look like linen. Lots of good inspo from his character.

Yes, it's Pitti, but using a coverall in this fit is so good.

>>15497396
99% of the stuff people wear to Pitti looks ridiculous, but occasionally you see some really nice fits. Usually from the older guys

Any good recs for shirts to go with more casual linen pants and venetian loafers? I'm stumped.

>>15497426
linen shirts obviously.

>>15497360
Best thing about knit ties is that the cheap ones are almost indistinguishable from the expensive ones

Duke of based

>>15497432
I've got a couple. Just wanted to change up the textures a bit

>>15497435
There are some summer cotton weaves that might work. Otherwise the current sartorial meme is ultralight denim.

>>15497435
What are some other textures for linen? What weaves?

I love this kind of shit. The really textured ecru linen stuff.

>>15497465
>bolo ties

I'm still trying to decide if I get pleats on a some glen check suit pants.

I fucking love pleats, but will they mess up the aethetics? I'm thinking I'll just do it anyway even if they will.

>>15497481
Nah man, pleats are based. Double pleats on some high waisted pants looks great. Probably every single suit I have made moving forward will have them

>>15497499
based

>>15497481
Pleats look fucking great if you're slim or fit. They look like dogshit on fatties

>>15497505
Do those pants look like they have an unfinished hem to anyone else?

>>15497426
Linen shirt with a contrasting color. Light up top dark below works well for summer.

LA SAPE

>looking for inspo
>it's all jacked male model or celebrities
Fuck off with this shit. I hate celebrities dressed up like this because it's so fake. They had a team of fashion advisors pick the outfits and everything. It's not real. It's not sprezzatura, it' fake.
I much prefer seeing regular people who just dress up nice because they like to rather than some millionaire who had a team pick their fits

>>15497611
>jacked male model
I am actually jacked and it is impossible to find anyone with my body type dressed like this or nicely in general. It's either sexcore or pure sportswear. What you call jacked is probably just thin and fit.
Buff guys have to walk a thin line where one side is frumpy bagginess and the other is SEX. I have yet to see a single photo of an athletic built guy dressed well. Not to mention buying clothes is a pain in the ass. Have to get everything MTM because OTR at best requires tailoring and most often doesn't fit well at all.

>>15497621
Just go Henry Cavill in The Man From U.N.C.L.E. core. Or are you saying you're even bigger than Cavill?

>>15497631
Or go John Cena core. The point is that you should get your pieces tailored to your body, however large that is, so that they fit and flatter you.
Going full sexcore is stupid when you can wear stuff that isn't skin tight.

>>15497631
Honestly about the same as him, though not as handsome. His wardrobe is clearly MTM or bespoke which is what I do as well. The difference is he has a whole team of advisors and a virtually unlimited budget.
Furthermore that look, while nice in its own right, is not necessarily sprezz or really suited for casual daily wear. Most of the inspo in these threads is things you could wear on a day off, a date, around town, potentially to the office depending on dress code. A relaxed, casual, laid back Med vibe while still maintaining a level of refinement and maturity is a hallmark of sprezz.
>>15497637
Same with this pic, and that shirt is bordering on SEX.
>you should get your pieces tailored to your body
I have to, not really any other choice.
If you have them post buff sprezz inspo

>>15497645
Yeah, I did loads of research on his fit in that movie because it was honestly what got me into dressing nice and in suits. It's all bespoke Savile Row stuff and Crockett and Jones shoes.
It's rare to see genuinely jacked guys dressing like this, so it's hard to take inspo and develop fits. But I think you should just try and find a fit you like, in a color and material you like and try getting it made to your proportions and seeing how it is.
I nice linen blend jacket with an unbuttoned shirt and some laid back loafers doesn't require you to be a skinny twink to pull off, it just requires you to be comfortable in your body

>>15497653
>nice linen blend jacket with an unbuttoned shirt and some laid back loafers
That is exactly what I've been wearing all summer.
Thanks for the advice. Frankly it gets a bit frustrating when most models are skellies or average. To top that off I live in Japan where absolutely nothing is geared towards my physique and height. Will do what you recommend though.

>>15497666
>666
Noice

Anyway, something about Asians wearing suits just fits. They can pull them off so effortlessly. Just wear what you're comfortable with in your body. If something doesn't feel or look right then adjust.
We aren't /TIP/, we're not wearing a costume.

>>15497345
Replying from the other thread, let's see if I get the references right ;)

>>15496832
>Polos are the fashion equivalent of a burger. Even if go to a really nice restuarant, it's still a burger.
Yep, they still look better than a T-shirt but they are not as elegant as the style we see here in the inspo pics.

The other anon answered some questions, and while I hang out in this thread I am by no means an expert on this style. If anything, I alternate heavily between things that I already own and were bought without much care and actually slowly dressing better.

>>15496835
Pic related, this is what I mean. I though I saw some with metal knobs, too, but those indeed appear to be plastic.

>>15496861
I'll make a followup post

I recently got these delivered and didn’t notice that one is a darker shade than the other. I can’t return them. Should I keep or try to resell them? They are from Magnanni

>>15497957
>>15496861
From front to left: dress shirt, cotton; casual shirt, cotton; casual shirt, linen

I hope you can see the difference in the texture

>>15497962
Who cares? No one will ever notice unless you point it out

>>15497982
w2c striped shirt?

>>15498012
I got it from Esprit, the brand says "edc", but I think it is their internal branding. Anyway, this type of shirt is not that rare, you should be able to find something similar from other manufacturers, too.

>>15498027
nice, think I just found a similar one with a banded collar I like. Thanks

Recent cop. Any thoughts?

>>15498048
Brown tuxedo shoes?

>>15498048
Venetian loafers aren'ty thing, I'm more of a penny loafer guy myself. But if they're comfy and you like them then that's awesome. Post a pic when you get them

>>15498048
w2c? I like those, also great to see a leather sole on them.

I like this style. It's like Trad but for normal people.

>>15497962
You can leave the darker one in INDIRECT sun for a few days.

>>15498104
There is no reason to not wear a leather sole unless it's a dedicated rain pair

>>15498165
Honestly, he should just wear them. Leather darkens with wear anyway, so after a while they'll look the same

Needs some RTW brands that do good high waisted trousers. Budget is 200USD
I have some from Pini Parma that are great and will probably order from them again but I like trying new brands

More scarf today. White/navy silk with a world map on it.

>someone commented that my pants seemed too short
Who else knows that feel?

>>15498456
The jacket color looks too cold for me, it creates an unpleasant contrast. Very neat otherwise

The Great Beauty is the only inspo you need. Next summer I intend to go full Jep.

>>15498697
Purple Noon is quintessential /sprezz/ kino.

>>15497345
I love exclusively white shirts so much but I always feel too formal

Any places to get wool pants for around $150 or so?

>>15498456
Gurkha pants?

>>15497345
What are the cheapest but somewhat decent casual shirts I can buy in Eng? I own no shirts for this.

>>15498456
looking sharp my friend

>>15497345
I have some heavy coarse linen left, in its natural color (relatively dark), as well as some smooth dark brown leather and I want to make a small travel bag from it.
What is a good design for this project? Something similar to a sailor bag could look out of place. Maybe a rectangular bag with a shoulder strap and long hanging lid? I'd carry at most a tablet/phone, some small items, underwear and maybe a shirt in it.

Where to buy cheaper but heavy linen shirts which aren’t too sheer and not total shit quality? (UK/EU)

>>15498990
I think you are the same guy asking those questions in the /tip thread and here, so just take this spoonfed answer:
Linen shirt for £50? What do you consider cheap?
https://www.massimodutti.com/gb/men/collection/linen-collection/slim-fit-dyed-100%25-linen-shirt-c1727719p8937354.html?colorId=605&categoryId=1727719

>>15499007
No and thanks that’s fine, didn’t know if a Spier or CT shirt would be better than MD or if it’s all the same at the price point?

Help me eliminate one color, I'll buy the other three. Please don't eliminate the washed ones, they're only 40 yurobucks.

I feel like I really want the blue ones, not sure about the black ones but I think I can easily rock them with a white or a grey shirt. I'd eliminate the dark blue ones (2nd from left).

Also I went with a comfortable waist size and only picked among the 100% cotton ones. What do you think?

When should pants have cuffs and when should they not?

>>15497666
>I live in Japan where absolutely nothing is geared towards my physique and height
Kek.
Do Japanese women appreciate your physique in general, gaijin factor aside, or are they really more interested in skelly, effeminate bishounen?

Also why don't you just cut if you don't like your body? You'll live longer anyway and it's not like you need to be that muscular.

>>15499012
That is a good question actually, unfortunately I have neither experience with those brands, nor with higher priced ones.
My best guess is that the quality is about the same if the fabric composition is the same. Another factor is probably how motivated the person who sews it is, but they have some sort of quality control usually.
As far as more expensive materials go: I was able to compare linen in various price segments and you can see the difference - the cheapest (as in dirt cheap) linen usually has very bright and unnaturally looking color, but the ordinary linen and expensive (= double the price of ordinary) are very similar in quality of the actual fabric, but the color looks a bit more sophisticated in the expensive version. An actual fabric expert will disagree, I guess, it's my amateur opinion.
Probably there are also some long term factors that play into it, such as how easily the color washes out, but that may be noticeable after years of use only.

>>15499037
how much sex do you want

>>15499033

>>15497957
As I said before like it or not that is the go to summer shoe in Italy. We don't usually wear boat shoes or regular loafers.
>>15497962
Use a darker cream?

>>15499033
Good colors of jeans:
Black, dark indigo, light wash

>>15498697
God I fucking hate that movie and that character. Jagden should have won that year.

>>15499070
So you mean you'd eliminate the second from left?
>>15499065
What if you had to pick between the two you eliminated?

>>how much sex do you want
So never? But I keep seeing pics of guys with cuffed pants posted in here. Like >>15497495
Also where should pants end? I read midway on the back of the shoes but I also see pants ending at the ankle.

>>15498104
They're the Frye 'Chris' Venetian loafer

>>15499070
I think washed black/dark grey is underrated

>>15497962
Awesome patina, keep them

>>15498048
I dislike venetian loafers

Where should I look to get high quality ghurkha/high waisted pants? I´ve always had trouble finding pants I actually fit in and when my all time favorite pants ripped recently I´ve been looking for new candidates.

>>15499165
Ugh, that looks revolting, let me guess, it's british "cuisine".

>>15499056
>Do Japanese women appreciate your physique in general
Yes
>more interested in skelly, effeminate bishounen
A few do but the vast majority prefer a muscular guy. Don't listen to what women say, look at what they do. They settle for skellies because that is what is available.
>why don't you just cut if you don't like your body
Not sure where you got that from. My concern is with the availability of well-fitting clothing and similar inspo, not with myself.
>it's not like you need to be that muscular
It's not like you need to be well-dressed

>>15499108
Dark Indigo jeans. If you must pick only one color stick with that.

>>15499226
>It's not like you need to be well-dressed
But that's true. You don't need the best shoes or the best dress in the world. Something nice and fitting can do.

Do you think the bishounen thing is a niche for otaku girls or maybe it's just a yaoi genre thing? Because the general idea that comes from Japan's media is that masculine beauty is very different from the West. Are you sure it's not your gaijin factor that attracts a lot of girls, and not your size?

>>15499232
Dude I have no idea which ones are dark indigo. Is it these? In that case I've already decided to buy them. Together with the black ones.
I was insecure about the clear washed ones and the darker blue ones.

>>15499108
1 is black, 3 is indigo, pic related is light wash

>>15499292
Okay. Light wash wasn't available in my size. At a reasonable price.
I think I'll get the blue washed ones as well, in the worst case scenario I can still use them when I have to do some heavy work or when I fear I'll get dirty for some reason, I can't just say no to below €40 levis.

>>15499223
It's classically associated with France, actually, but aspic was popular throughout Europe back in the day.

>>15497469
looks like some massimo dutti shit

>>15498761
Pini Parma

>>15498100
Will do, they should be here tomorrow

>>15499076
Take your shit taste back to le ddit.

>>15498456
Very nice. Impressive. I don't know if you have said or you will say, but which country are you from?

>>15499923
Sorrentino is a hack. Watch more movies.

Black or very dark brown shoes with a midnight blue suit?

>>15500052
Absolutely

>>15500052
brown imo

>>15499269
I've been here almost 10 years so I'm pretty sure. 'gaijin factor' means almost nothing in Tokyo.
Women like muscular bodies. Pretty much everywhere you go in the world, and I have traveled extensively, this holds true.
Japanese media's concept of masculine beauty has been artificially altered much like in the US. Look back at the 80's in both and see the typical hero versus now. The women here like Cavill and Arnold as well as Depp just like elsewhere.
If you keep thinking of Japan in manga and anime terms like bishounen and yaoi you will remain ignorant of the country and people as they really are.

>>15499226
what are your stats? ht/wt/approx bf %, arm size

>>15500674
What do you do for a living? Just curious

really seems like most posters here miss the meaning, i understand them, you wouldnt find sprezzatura in a models photo, you find it in friends, people in the street, maybe for moments and i dont think you can capture it well enough in photos

How's this?

>>15501241
By trying to analyze and define sprezz you've already missed the mark.

>>15501253
Nice to see more fits posted. What occasion?

I had a ton of negative feedback but I'll leave that to the other anons. Try doing these instead:
> lose the waistcoat
>now you can also do up your jacket
> darker shoes (dark brown)
>tighter tie knot
>iron your collar to a sharper top crease.
>otherwise try collar stays.
>swap to a white linen pocket square

>>15501253
What the FUCK are those shoes? Abominations

GENTLEMEN, ITS TIME TO GET SOME SPICY SENORITAS IN THE CLUBS TODAY.

>>15501253
>trousers need pressing
>monkstraps look somewhat cheap and should be more brown in color to go with the suit
>shirt cuffs not visible
>waistcoat should be cut shorter
>white collar band withouth the pattern that's on the rest of the shirt pisses me off
>tie knot should have a dimple IMO

>>15501272
fat

>>15500674
The problem here is that anime and manga (and every other media, like the music industry) don't exist in a bubble, they exist to fulfill a demand, they are published to cater to a certain target demographic.
Now if you tell me Japanese women like muscular guys and at the same time they want to read shoujo and josei magazines something doesn't add up.
Women draw those, women consume those.

With the shitposting out of the way, here's today's actual fit.

Idea for this was "fix an alpham fit", so obviously we needed to post one first.

>>15501307
Also: fuck chelsea boots, they're nearly impossible to work into a casual outfit.

>>15498530
I agree, but I don't have an unlimited wardrobe. It was the least worst option. Would love some fabric recs to go with that.
>>15499953
South Africa
>>15498776
Most of the non-suit pants I post here are ghurkas with bunch of different waist designs.

>the parcel has been returned to sender
What the hell? It's the second time in like a week and with two different couriers. It never happened before.
My shoes will never arrive...

>>15501302
Please tell me more about Japan. You are clearly the resident expert on the topic.

>>15501307
Your trousers are always excellent. Are they all bespoke? If not recommendations for high-waisted, side buttoned or side adjusted, gurkha, etc.?

>>15501309
Ah i missed this because I have tripfag muted. Where do you get gurkha pants?

>>15501380
No need to be sarchastic. If Japanese people produce a certain type of media it's only natural that you'd think they do it because there's a target audience for it. If you believe it's so hilarious please explain how.

>>15501383
>>15501385
They're all bespoke. I haven't ever seen anything but mid or low rise in shops here ever. But I guess that makes sense - you can't really buy this style in shops because the waist needs to be perfectly fitted. The pants have no adjustment capability at all, so would struggle to be commercially viable across a range of body types.

What I can suggest is how to actually get your tailor to make them. Get one proper/expensive of trousers from a reputable tailoring house that is known to make the style, then take them with you and go shop around to a bunch of far less expensive local tailors.

Chances are they can replicate them at a fraction of the cost

Are boxers really a big no-no? I like my balls to have room.

>>15501388
No sarcasm. You obviously have a much better understanding of Japan, Japanese culture and Japanese women because you are aware that a subgenre of manga exists. No amount of statistics of circulation numbers or dubious claims of who is actually consuming those products and where they live is worth more than your wisdom.
BTW Germany makes some scat porn therefore all German women love to eat shit.

>>15501391
Thanks for the advice. I have yet to see a pic of your trousers that doesn't look great. Will track down a tailor and see what I can do.

>>15501399
>subgenre
Shoujo and Josei are not genres, they're the target demographic of certain container magazines, specifically those targeted at girls and young women.
Then inside those magazines you have various genres of shoujo and josei manga. Yaoi would be one of those genres.

You need to understand that buying those magazines isn't a nerd hobby like it would be to buy a comic book in the West, normalfag people buy those things all the time to have something to do while riding the train to work and have something to fill the dead time. The manga published inside are then collected into volumes, that are bought only by the fans, which happen to be otaku most of the time, except for the most popular shit like One Piece and such.
The stuff published inside the magazines live and die based on the favour by the readers.

I am certainly not an expert but you clearly have no idea what you're talking about.

>>15501407
weebs plz go

>>15501272
The perfect joke! What did you keep from this outfit while fixing it then? Looks as if it's just the shoes, maybe also the shirt.

>>15501407
The resident expert speaks: thus it is so
If only you actually lived here, you would be hailed as a sage of all things Japanese and could teach the locals so much about their culture

>>15501426
Black T Shirt -> Black polo neck
Blue slimshit jeans -> blue pants
Grey leather jacket -> grey coat
Chelsea boots in both.

>>15501430
What's the point of getting big if you still have to resort to passive-aggressive behaviour?
Feel free to answer to anything I've said with facts. I don't doubt your experience and I don't think Japanese women dislike muscles either, I just don't think it's a a big conspiracy or something, Japanese aesthetics are different in general.

>>15501410
Fun fact: actual Japanese people look down on weebs and view them as creepy weirdos.

>>15501444
Getting big is its own point. Strength and size run together.
The thread is derailed enough, no need to add to it. You have not posted any facts, only opinions you read on kotaku or wherever and nothing I could post would change your mind.

>>15501449
The content of mainstream magazines targeted at women with a high turnover of content based on reader's favour is not fact?

>>15501441
>Chelsea Boots
I AM HERE FOR THE SEX

>>15501461
They're part of the ALPHAM SIGNATURE STYLE. Swapping them out to something reasonable just wasn't an option for this fit.

>>15501465
By the way, I'll post some outfits here, too, but it may still take me a few weeks. Hope to see you around

>>15501509
Good. Why the delay?

>>15501307
Good content

>>15501510
My current clothes only partially fit the theme of this thread and it will take some time until my new trousers are ready.

Are shirts with patters allowed when dressing casually (with no jacket)?

>>15501630
Sure

>>15497426
Shirts made from fresco fabric? There are blazers, idk about shirts

>>15501641
What about this? Be honest.

>>15501839
Looks cool

>>15501881
It's actually much smaller in proportion, very fine pattern.

What are some good /sprezz/ kinos?

Terry cloth polos look incredibly comfy but they also look like they'll pick up every speck of lint and dust in 5 meter radius.
Any experience with this fabric?

Chelsea boots work.

>>15502148
That girl is built for BBC.

>>15502071
it does, very comfy though. I only had one hand me down polo made of it when i was younger that i wore around the house. w2c terry cloth polos?

>>15502148
>>15501307
Different anon or just a different outfit?

>>15502181
Berg & Berg has some on sale: bergbergstore.com/collections/sale-polos
while the one from the pic is from:
grandlemar.com/collections/knits/products/positano-terry-white

>>15502183
Different outfit. Changed tonight’s venue to one with strict dress code.

>>15502176
Yes, she is indeed built for Big Boots, Chelsea

>>15502223
>Big Boots, Chelsea
Honestly did not expect such an elegant deflection of racebaiting on 4chan. You have my admiration, anon.

>>15498048
>>15498100
>>15499838
Update: Recent cop has recently arrived
The suede is really fucking nice, the dye on them is perfectly even, and they fit my heels really well. The soles are thicker than I expected, which I like, but probably isn't for everyone.

>>15497495
Hate this boring baldie.

>>15502564
Same. Everyone rides his nuts in the menswear world and on social media. He's a coping bald subhuman and his fits are bland as fuck

>>15502148
Nice fit
When your girl wears white, be it dress pants or skirt, it is practically see trough and everyone can see every curve and panty line

>>15502596
Yes, but I’m not worried about that. I like her in white. She’s a smart girl that wore skin-tone pasties and exactly matching white underwear.

What’s the point of arm candy if it doesn’t look delicious?

>>15502580
I remember reading an article he wrote. "building a wardrobe on a budget". Every item he recommended going bespoke.

Also, he has abnormal shoulders.

>>15502596
That's the point. Girls dress like that to be seen

>>15497962
That’s the point of handmade clothes they’re supposed to be different

>>15502794
I read one of his pieces reviewing some budget brands and the whole article was "this isn't as good as my 3k suit" or this isn't as good as *insert high end brand here*" and I'm thinking, what the fuck was the point of writing a review of budget brands if you're just going to complain that they're budget brands.
He's a faggot brandwhore and that's it

>>15503036
Not him, but no. I have several pairs of magnannis, while handmade the patina should match.

>>15501253
Cool fit, it's something else. Few things to note:
>The shirt's collar arches weirdly which could be a sign of cheap fabric ("non iron" or something polyester), as another anon said, try to iron that flat.
>tie knot looks iffy, for this collar, try a hald windsor (is the tie expensive? if so, the know even on a full windsor will shrink very much)
>The waistcoat is alright, why not?
>The slim fit pants elongate your shoes, which can make them look clownesque. Try to find a less slim version of the suit and prepare to shell out bucks for minor amendments
>The shoe colour should be darker; now they are taking away the attention from your chest/face

>>15501510
Anyway, here is something from today

>>15501253
you really have to change those shoes, getting Spike Spiegel + clown vibes

>>15503464
What an odd jacket. Cotton?
Dark patches on the elbows of such a light (color and weight) look a bit out of place
Big button, super skinny lapels
Would be nice to see it paired with some trousers and shoes to get a total color scheme.

>>15503471
It's an unstructured linen jacket, thought about exchanging the buttons for smaller ones that match the patches in color. Those were added because I have the same jacket with a better fit (arms are too tight on this one), so I did some modifications to have some variety.
Here's just the shirt and pants, the jacket color is a bit darker obviously, more like a lightly bleached linen

>>15503398
Recommendation for shoes then? I've always had trouble finding the right ones for a suit. You raise good point I'll try to do better but this suit is already a little too big even after adjustment. I'm a walking skeleton so I find it really difficult to find the fine line between looking boxy and asks-tier slim.

>>15501307
Whats the rise length on your pants? How wide are the leg openings?

>>15503487
Smaller buttons matching the patches would in all likelihood make it much, much better.

>>15503527
Something with a goodyear welt. You can find them on sale for sub 200 occasionally

https://www.nordstromrack.com/shop/product/2962549/to-boot-new-york-san-marcos-leather-monk-strap-loafer?color=CUOIO

Also if you’re young your body is probably still changing. Gain weight and get fit before investing too much on clothes that won’t fit in the near future

>>15503527
Due to being skellington avoid bulky shoes. The monk straps add unnecessary weight to already large feet. The thick outsoles and heel don't do you any favors either. The biggest flaw is the color - much too bright and borderline gaudy for the rest of the outfit. Drawing attention to large feet with lighter shoes is not good. Go for a darker toned brown pair with a sleeker silhouette, perhaps oxfords or wingtips.

>>15503527
Cheap
>Meermin
Good
>Carmina

You thought it was Chelsea boots, but it was me, Oxfords!

>>15503527
Try something with a narrow last. Avoid the boxy looks.

For suit fitting, your best bet is to go very British style, for a more constructed appearance. This helps fill out the shoulders and broaden the chest. Fit is everything though, so make sure the shoulders are perfect.

>>15503464
Not bad.That shirt looks great. Good natural simple colours.

What the other anon said about the jacket/buttons buttons is true. I'd suggest some nicely textured contrasting NATURAL nut buttons.

Keep the pocket square subtle, otherwise it looks like you're trying too hard. Push it in more so it just peaks out and try to mangle the folds a bit more.

What's the elegant fit for when it's so hot you'll be drenched in sweat after 5 minutes outside the house? Because that's what summer is like here. Linen shirts with shorts are the maximum it is bearable to wear.

About to slonk this iced latte w/ extra espresso shot and pop a nicotine lozenge

>>15503603
light as fuck EVERYTHING linen. Weaves so open they're almost transparent. Also go looser on the fits, more drape = more room for everything to breathe. Perforated/woven shoes.

>>15503613
Great fit. Love the safari jacket. Wonderful color.

>>15503615
Seconding linen. Have heard fresco can be good as well but haven't tried it.

>>15503615
I legitimately had rivulets of sweat sliding down my back after 5 minutes outside with a linen shirt the other day.
I have to stay in my underwear at home and it's still too damn hot.

>>15503656
Linen in the incorrect weave is hot as fuck.

Post a photo of it.

>>15503564
Well I'm 27 so not that young anymore I've had this body type for years, but you do make a lot of sense. Carmina seems like a good option so I'll give that a shot thanks

>>15503669
lmao you can still get jacked into your 40s.

>>15503669
>I've had this body type for years
Because you haven't been working out all those years
>>15503672
This is correct. Start now, the sooner the better.

>>15503656
you are going to sweat no matter what. The difference is linen is lighter and looser than cotton so it allows air in more. it is not an air conditioned body suit.
It dries much quicker as well. Sweating in cotton means you're going to be wet all day. in linen it dries out within 15-30 minutes.

>>15503659
Here.
>>15503690
So should I go around naked?

>>15503730
That's a fairly thick weave. It's definitely not a fresco.

Can you hold it up to some light?

>>15503730
Here. an example of a very loose linen weave.

>>15503672
>>15503686
used to be a gymrat years ago but i really didn't like the look. i'm sticking to cardio that's why i'm looking for the best way to fit to my frame.

>>15503736
That's up to you, but classic aesthetics work best on a proportioned frame.

>>15503594
Thanks. What kind of nut buttons are there? Coconut buttons I know of, but may be harder to get here. I know that I can order them online, but I'd rather go to a shop and compare them directly, for example dark horn buttons.

>>15503732
>>15503734
There's not much light anymore, sky is cloudy.

>>15503730
>So should I go around naked?
Yes, that is exactly what was implied. Well done faggot

>>15503756
Corozo buttons are somewhat popular as well

>>15503756
https://corozobuttons.com/

>>15503758
Hard to tell without a 1:1 comparison, but it does seem a little more dense than the one I presented, but at least it's the right weave.

>>15503974
Can't find prices anywhere on the site. How much do they usually run?

>>15504020
No idea. It's just a type of button. Ask your tailor or check other places for the style.

>>15503756
Here

>>15503974
Thanks!

>>15504020
Buttons are fairly cheap usually: 10cts for the cheapest buttons and up to 2 Euros for the higher quality buttons from natural materials, per piece.

Is there any point in getting a half-belted back put on a bespoke overcoat?

>>15504336
It can serve as a decorative element?

>>15501309
>South Africa

Are you pulling my pipe!?

SA and you dress like that? How have you not been targeted to steal from?

>>15504397
>SA and you dress like that? How have you not been targeted to steal from?
The same can be asked about South American countries with very high crime like Brazil,Mexico,El Salvador etc.The middle-class in South Africa live in suburbs some distance away from the crime ridden townships.

>>15497345

why would you want to look like you beat your wife and chainsmoke

>>15501309
I can see a burgundy or maroon wool or linen working with that. Brown of any kind would look good, too

Would this one be a /fa/ approved choice?

>>15504533
Meh. Get a Seiko.

>>15504521
Because women want to be kept in their place.

>>15503613
Coat is too small lol

>>15503264
No.

>>15499033
are those levis?

>>15504749
Yep. Copped the black and the blue ones in the end, should arrive on monday.
Why?

>>15504709
Safari jacket is a sportcoat alternative. I think the length is appropriate - it seems to cover anon's crotch.

>>15504763
Looks good. The 2nd from left indigo looks nice. Are they raw and change colour after time?

>>15504791
I have no fucking clue but they should be 100% cotton with no elastan shit.
How to tell if they're "raw"?

>>15504827
No idea, usually it says selvidge on it or something. What's the site from that you ordered? Do you know the name of the colour of 2nd left?

>>15504847
On amazon, €60 each. This is "blue dark clean".
Didn't have much of a choice because of a serious lack of selection for my 31/30 manlet-with-wide-hips size.

>>15504862
i am same sized manlet.

>>15504397

>>15504473 is correct. There's a very clear separation of areas. There is a high crime rate, but we're also extremely vigilant down here.

Most houses and venues have significant private security.

>>15504827
raw denim is denim that hasn't been washed. It's crispy, and a little uncomfortable at first.
if the site knows what they're doing, then it'll say

good sites:

https://redcloudscollective.com/collections/selvedge-denim-clothing
https://www.blueowl.us/
https://www.okayamadenim.com/

>>15504926
and by "hasn't been washed" i mean that the company didn't put it through a giant industrial washing machine to make it soft

>>15504926
>>15504928
always go for "unwashed" "unsanfranized" and "selvedge"

>>15504963
Unsanforized
Also, Selvidge just refers to the denim being used in the jeans in a more durable and expensive way.
ALSO, WHY ARE WE TALKING ABOUT RAW DENIM IN A SPREZZATURA THREAD?

Thots on turtlenecks?

>>15505127
Just realized he's wearing jeans

>>15505048
Nothing looks more carefree and effortless than jeans mixed with a sport coat. When I go to the opera, I try to dress nice. When I see an old man in jeans and a tweed, I know he wealthmogs me to shit. Even if he doesn't he gives off that air, which is the main point of sprezzatura

>>15505127
Hard to look relaxed in a turtleneck. They always seem stuffy and formal, not to mention uncomfortable.

>>15504521
Why wouldn't you?

>>15505136
It doesn’t take any more effort to wear jeans instead of proper trousers. This bullshit is exactly the kind of thing that sprezz gets a bad fame for. It is a hideous and clearly purposeful corruption of the style. Even worse if it is showing le selvedge red strip on a pin cuff.

>>15505326
Corruption of the style seems like making a mountain out of a molehill. It can look good when styled right. I don't think anyone sees jeans and a jacket as a corrupted /sprezz/

>>15505326
>corruption of the style
Yes what sprezz needs is more rules and regulations so it turns into a costume just like tip

>>15505364
Thank you for saying the words we were all afraid to say. >>15505364 is the hero we need; but not the one we deserve right now

Something fun and casual today.

>>15505262
>rolex
You can definitely pull of a /sprezz/ turtleneck. Black under jackets in general sucks unless you're going for some kind of john wick larp. Not enough contrast or interest. >>15505133 Note how this is actually a midnight blue.

>>15505326
There's a time and a place for classic style. You need to know the rules before you break them. And if you don't know them you break them in ways that are cringe instead of cool. You kind of have to start with some basic /tip/ school before you can become a /sprezz/ sartorial dropout. I still have no idea what I'm even doing.

>>15505918
Looking good. I'll go with a cotton shirt with French cuffs instead of a silk shirt, as you suggested. The fabric sample I got wasn't really my thing.

>>15505918
Great fit as usual, the tie really sets it off.
Bespoke gurkhas again correct? You have me convinced, going to get some made after a jacket for fall.
Details on the shoes pls.

Just got this back from the tailor. Wonderful warm daytime winter jacket in medium weight brown PoW flannel.

Figured I'd have some fun with the lapels and went fishmouth with a low gorge and probably excessive lapel roll.

>>15505947
Good idea.

>>15505955
Thanks. It's a MAXWIDE vintage 80s Christian Dior horror show, so thought I'd try it anyway. Tailor also quite liked it.

>>15505326
Honestly traditional trousers are much more comfortable than any jeans can ever be, I don't understand why jeans have come to be considered casual pants when they destroy your belly and crotch area.
But yes, they are easier to acquire and require less knowledge, in that way they're definitely "easier" to wear.

>>15505918
Bump
>>15503554

>>15506232
Roughly 35cm front, 38cm rear rise. 8cm waistband height.

I'm a 185cm manlet for reference.

>>15505955
Shoes are Country Road. They're woven leather venetian loafers with leather soles. Was an inexpensive item bought out of season some time last winter. I think I paid < 30 EUR for them.

>>15506034
What shirt is this?
Nice jacket, I wish I could find something similar, perhaps without the blue.

>>15506378
Shirt is a Hackett dress shirt. Heavy cotton, double cuffs. ironed-flat collar gives the nice roll, as I usually use collar bones.

Look for a medium-weight brown glen check flannel if you're trying to get a jacket made. It'll be considerably easier to find without the blue overcheck.

Handwork and some silly cufflinks.

>>15506373
Does that put the waist band about 10 cm above your belly button? Do you have short legs or something?

>>15506519
Middle of waistband sits exactly on navel.

>>15506519
That "high rise" is what I would describe as mid rise, but perhaps the top waistband is just very small.

>>15506538
Thanks. I'm still trying to figure out what works best for my body. I have long legs so I'm trying to avoid looking like this.

>>15506558
Good observation.

Note that the waistband is really thick for a reason; it adds some subtle visual break below the navel, which is what people are used to seeing and why the gurkhas still look good to normal people.

With the image you posted the horizontal lines on the shirt shorten the top, while the vertical suspender lines extend the legs. Both are exactly the opposite of how the Gurkha trousers work in your favour. If you're trying to minimize leg length but still go higher on the rise, V-pleats are a good option.

Last tip: a more structured shoulder can allow for a higher rise by extending the lines of your torso. I even extend this trick a little further with higher collars and taller polo necks.

post more fits guys

Is it impossible to buy any kind of flannel/tweed jacket as new if I'm somewhat poorfag or more hesitant about dressing like this but want to just try a solid casual staple? I really like PoW, Dogtooth, Barleycorn. Thrifting kinda sucks here.

There's nothing I can get for €200 ish is there?

>>15506609
Dumping my Bruce folder

>>15506641

>>15506643

>>15506646

How do I get a /sprez/ gf?

>>15506649

Are high rise pants a mistake if I have wide hips? I feel like while they would hide my lovehandles pretty well I would end up looking like a confused trap

>>15506637
Not with proper tweed. Just the fabric alone on a jacket will cost you that much before any kind of tailoring.

Don't thrift, hunt. Literally phone retirement homes and try to find out where the old people's clothes get taken when they pass on. It's morbid but should work well enough.

You need to be looking for VIRGIN TROVES, before the greasy hipsters have run their dirty fingers into your pristine sartorial sarcophagi.

>>15506641
That is an amazing fit. Wish bell bottoms were still cool.

>>15506717
this but also try estate sales and church charity shops.

>>15506658
POST BOIP...

Can't help unless you post fits.

Yeah I know
>anime
but I'd really like suggestions on where I can buy that exact kind of blazer jacket, with a collar contrasting with the lapels/jacket's color.
Does it have a name?

>>15506764
Typically that's seen on chesterfield coats. Also search for faced collar or faced lapels.

But don't ever wear that, it's going to look like a larp outside of formalwear/creative black tie.

It's about as dumb as these shoes are. So /sprezz/ you can have THREE undone buckles!

>>15506770
Alright then, thanks for the advice.
I'd just like to find a casual blazer I can use as a jacket for weather that's not cold enough for an actual coat.

>>15501272
w2c jacket unironically?

>>15506717
>>15506725
I'd rather pay than do all that shit.

>>15506734
Here´s an old pic of me but I basically have the same build today except for the long hair

>>15506790
It's a custom piece from a local leather shop. Style is a grey suede biker jacket though, and it's completely bog-standard in style as I'm not big on leather jackets.

>>15506786
That's pretty vague. Are you looking for a normal sportscoat (aka a suit-style jacket) or a longer coat? Age? budget? height? body type?

>>15506799
Then get something MTM or bespoke if you want older-style fabrics.

>>15506808
At least you're brave enough to post a photo.

High waisted won't fix the underlying issues, I think Rick Owens had a quote on this somewhere, but I'd suggest going for a simple mid-rise pair that sits comfortably around your middriff.

if you want to go any higher, suspenders are your best bet considering your girth. This can look amazing and elegant on horizontally larger men, but it's also incredibly easy to fuck up if you don't know what you're doing.

Take a read through this; it might help with some of the basics. https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/how-to-dress-for-your-body-type/

>>15506809
>a normal sportscoat
Yes. Preferably unstructured.
>Age
23
>budget
Around 500
>height
5'10/178cm
>body type
Skinny. About average as far as my frame goes, I think.

>>15506826
You can get a decent jacket for that amount of money. If you're skinny, I'd suggest staying away from unstructured.

Look at >>15506034 for an example. it's very structured with heavy canvassing, but casual styling options. You can fill out your frame without looking like a soldier.

>>15506799
when you go to estate sales you're not just only looking for something specific. you're browsing to see what is there and if there's anything good you buy it.

>>15506835
>If you're skinny, I'd suggest staying away from unstructured.
Why is that? Aren't unstructured jackets generally seen as less formal?

>>15506839
The point of menswear is to flatter your body by bringing it closer to ideal proportions. If you're skinny, adding more structuring helps make you look more proportionate, much like a shorter person might have a higher gorge on their jackets.

The point is that structuring has not all that much to do with how casual a piece is.

>>15506839
Not the anon giving advice so far, but my best take is: The idea of the structured jacket is to optimize your appearance to be more masculine, i.e. it should give you broader chest and wide straight shoulders.
For skinny guys chances are that you have small shoulders and underdeveloped traps and when you are wearing that jacket it will look odd, because your natural shoulder line is not what people expect to see when they see a guy in a jacket.

>>15506874
Exactly.

Look at boring baldie in these two fits:
One is highly structured, the other is not.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/01/michael-browne-bespoke-coat-review.html
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/05/richard-anderson-tuxedo-style-breakdown.html

The tuxedo sucks and the coat is fucking amazing. Why?

>>15506864
>>15506874
>you have small shoulders
Actually they're not too small for someone my size. I brought a coat over to a tailor some time ago who told me while measuring that he'd have to account for my broad shoulders, so I wouldn't say I'm small, just thin.

>>15506881
Anon, structuring encompasses far more than just shoulders.

It's the chestpiece, the drape, how the canvas is pulled into the front of the armhole, how the darts are placed and more.

>>15506885
Yeah, I'll look for more structured jackets then. Thanks again anons

>>15506717
I'll have to see where I can find these then in UK.
Not really sure where I can get the bare minimum for flannel or unlined new wool blazer.

how is this not just #menswear

I know there shouldn't be rules to this style but I wonder how do I find some kind of basic fit or items for wardrobe/uniform to explore from and build upon when I have absolutely nothing other than athleisure right now? Feels lost. Also I'm not sure how this works when measurement change due to lifting.

If sprez is in essence about embodying some kind of effortless grace and style shouldn't you follow contemporary trends instead of larping? Nothing looks less effortless than going for such a contrived look. I get that there's a lot of value in the nuances of styling but it's so outside of the norm now that unless you're expected to wear a suit for work it's inherently flamboyant.

>>15506898
>>15506911
ASK NOT THE SPARROW HOW THE EAGLE SOARS.

>>15506900
Start with a dress shirt, barrel cuffs. No button downs or pockets on it.

For a jacket, go for a half-lined jacket in blue/grey with notch lapels. A subdued pattern is a good choice for this to add versatility. Under no circumstances buy a fused jacket.

>>15506918
What's wrong with the button down and pockets? I thought that it should have more casual elements?

What about boots/shoes?

>>15506918
>No button downs or pockets on it.
You cannot stress this enough. No idea why pockets are actually added, it looks so much cleaner without them.

>>15506967
The idea is to look carelessly elegant. So, you put effort into your wardrobe so that it consists of elegant items, but you don't follow the formal rules for this costume too strictly or you mix it up playfully.

>>15506967
You will almost always look better dressing down formal items than dressing up casual ones.

>>15507030
Exactly this. If you had to wear FULL SUPER SERIOUS outfits you'd obviously look great, but instead we take those items and just wear them whatever.

On a more simple level, /sprezz/ is an attractive style of dressing as it signals wealth, good taste and above all a devil-may-care attitude that implies the above two were achieved effortlessly.

Here's an example of a shitty 'trying to be casual' fit. It uses both a button down and an unstructured, probably fused jacket. It looks hideous and cheap.

Here's a guy with a broken arm just wearing his normal clothes and still looking better than >>15507186.

>>15507186
Also, note that it looks like there was extra effort put into making the outfit look not too serious: one lapel is popped up in a weird way, the cuffs on both the shirt and the jacket look messy, too many buttons on the shirt are undone. A wonder his fly is not open.
What I want to say is, that this is not something that happens naturally in a casual setting. Sure, you'd open a button on the shirt or open the sleeves, but here there are too many things off, so it doesn't look elegant anymore.

An "fixed" version of this outfit (jeans, jacket, shirt) would be useful for reference, though.

>>15506650
I would get closer and move her suspenders over her tits. The gap they'd produce would be super hot.

Is the Loden /sprezz/?
I was thinking of getting a peacoat but maybe I should get something from my region intead. I wonder if it's enough for winter, though.

>>15506650
Imagine being the tailor that gets to measure her boobs

>>15506911
Trends are lame.
>>15506900
I did this, I got some dress shoes I can also wear casually, so with some decorations (brogues) and in brown with a matching belt. Then I got some shirts and shorts for summer. Then I got some basic color jeans (blue and black). Now I'll get some v-neck t-shirts in white and maybe other basic colors. Then I will probably get a coat next year during the sales.
I don't need to dress formally at all so I don't know if I'll get a suit or pants but I know I want to have at the very least a sportcoat to wear with jeans.
Maybe I'll get some more linen stuff for next year.

>>15507556
I have two in black/grey without the fold-over collars. Fits get posted in the grey one more often as black is an awful color. They're cheap and alright.

>>15507636
Is it warm enough for winter as a coat?
What about green? Maybe something less bright like pic related. I like the idea of maintaining the traditional colors.

Where are you from that you have loden? I'm from Sudtirol.

>>15507647
It depends on how cold your winters are and your personal tolerance. I would avoid green because it's difficult to integrate into your wardrobe.

>>15507671
Subzero but at max around -5, not more than -10.
Meh, honestly I don't really care because you can't see what's below it and if you can I'm not wearing it anymore. If the tradition says green I'll gravitate towards green but we'll see.

>>15507699
That's fucking freezing. I can't offer any useful advice for that temperature range.

>>15507699
Tweed from head to toe

>>15507702
Kek. It's the alps, what did you expect? Not all winter is like that, usually only in January and February. A month ago we had above 35 degrees.

Do you know what the best brand for the price is?

>>15507728
I have no experience in temperatures below 5-10 degrees.

>>15507727
>>15507730
I feel like maybe it's just better if I get a parka.

>>15507727
>>15507730
Oh, I forgot. What about some warm pants? I usually have to wear pantyhose below my pants.

>>15507747
If I seriously had to survive that I'd go with a heavyweight flannel vest + pants + jacket + overcoat + scarf + gloves + boots.

Overcoat I wouldn't fuck around either, full length greatcoat.

button down oxfords without the pocket sprezzable or no?

>>15507784
Yes. Consider getting rid of the pocket, though. It isn’t a deal breaker, but it looks better without.

>>15507647
If I use a jumper and a flannel shirt with that coat I can probably be comfortably at -10ish. I would be more worried about getting a good looking pair of gloves, desu.

>>15507747
Green loden is fine in my opinion. Since you want to go for traditional colors you can look at the color combinations from the folk costumes in your area, it will look good then.

>>15507751
What kind of pants are you usually wearing?

>>15508317
What is the problem with gloves? Leather gloves usually come with a wool lining, dark brown gloves would fit most of your outfits I guess.

>>15507751
Grey flannels, several pairs in different shades. I like the ones from Natalino.

>>15508434
Cheap leather gloves usually fit like crap. The cheapest decent ones I have seen were going for €80. Would be nice to have some color diversity. Cream, red and brown is probably plenty.

Good morning. A bit more formal than usual today. Been great to see other fits and inspo posted.

>>15507784
Just get a normal shirt instead. The American obsession with OCBDs is incomprehensible. Wear them if you've got them, but in general try to avoid them.

>>15508978
The banana is a nice detail, instant ice-breaker

>>15508978
what is everything?

>>15509001
"banana"

>>15509014
Ok that is pretty based.

>>15509014
Daring, but still a banana ;) Makes it even better

>>15509008
Midnight blue nailhead weave Reda super 110 MTM suit. Half canvassed. Buttons are dark blue shell for a rakish touch.
Shirt is country road.
Tie is from TM Lewin, woven silk.
Shoes are churches’ Berlin oxfords.

Can elaborate more if you need.

>>15508978
Which country are you from/living in?
Normal shirt is spread collar?

>>15509103
>This question popping up every time

>>15509108
I'm guessing the UK but I am probably wrong. Sorry if it is annoying.

>>15509110
Actually, South Africa.

>>15509103
Normal shirt is a medium height collar in a shape that flatters your face. Point, semi, or spread.

>>15509110
Nah, it's not annoying for me (not the guy you asked), I just found it funny that everyone keeps asking this.

Are these shoes sprezz ? Or is my understanding of it a bit off?

>>15509209
A single item isn’t really sprezz or not sprezz. It’s the combination and how it’s uses.

When choosing items don’t try to choose “sprezz” items. Choose good quality classic menswear and get so comfortable in it that sprezz emerges on its own.

>>15509014
Would this be considered sexual assault in America?

>>15509209
I really like these.

>>15509232
No because its a fruit.

>>15509225
You are absolutely right. I am focusing too much on a single look.

>>15509236
Ya they are barker , I'm watching them on ebay.
I've one pair of dress shoe from barker which I like alot , well brogues.
I already have a brown pair of loafers but felt I need a black pair also

I'm quite stuck. The Levis jeans arrived but they're too tight and I have to send them back. I don't know if I must get one or two size more. The problem is the pants weren't bad on the leg at all but they squeezed me on the waist, I couldn't even sit.
Pic related are supposed to be 34 from another brand (vintage Armani, it's a real shame I look like a clown because they're great) and they fit me perfectly on the waist, the problem as you can see is in the leg. So I have no idea if I should get a 32 or a 33.

Should I just give up on the 501 model and find some other model with a slimmer leg?
Will 100% cotton jeans shrink a bit when washed?

>>15509391
Your pants are being worn wrong. The waistband should sit horizontal across the front of the stomach. Wear them higher and go for a fuller cut.

If you want a trimmer leg, take them to an alterations tailor to get them brought in. It's a very easy adjustment.

>>15509391
501 is a specific type of cut. Look for another that fits you better. Might help to take measurements of your waist, thigh and hip.
Jeans are not on your waist in the pic, those are your hips.
Forget the numbers, they are mostly vanity sizing. 34 could mean anything across a number of different brands. Instead go by measurements and try clothes on whenever possible.
Jeans might shrink a bit.

New thread? Use this as the title image!

>>15509401
If I do that I can't fucking sit, cotton is not elastic, and my balls and dick will get killed by the crotch.
Give me 15-20 minutes and I'll take a pic with the 31 Levis.

Personally I like the waist size of the 34 Armani. Can probably like a slightly fitter size but not much.
>>15509402
502 Taper look better to me but it doesn't have 100% cotton options.

>>15509409
Keep looking. There are more brands than Levi's

>>15509401
Not the anon asking this, but some jeans models are cut exactly like this (took one apart): They add a curve on the front, from the hips to the front, probably to make room for a pot belly on these low rise jeans.
In the picture this curve seems to be "amplified" by the fabric getting pressed down, which creates the horizontal fold in the pocket on the right side.

>>15509409
You can't sit because the RISE of the pants is too low. Look at how long it is on >>15508978 for example.

You want mid rise pants to ensure you have enough room.

>>15509411
>>15509419
These fit perfectly but really they allow no movement at all. I feel like only one size more is not enough.

>>15509473
They do not fit perfectly if they do not allow for movement. Also it looks as if they charge on your calves, creating those wrinkles in the knee area.
Do you have the larger size for comparison?

>>15509478
Charge=chafe

>>15509473
Those badly fitted and too small.The waistband must be horizontal.

>>15509490
Dude no waistband will ever stay horizontal on me because I have the belly and because that's how my body is shaped, with large hips and glutes the pants rest on on the side/back. If these that are too small don't allow for the waistband to stay horizontal no pants will ever allow for that. I never had pants that did that in my life.
>>15509478
No, they certainly don't, the leg has space. Sorry for the shitpics but I have no good mirror.

>>15509513
A higher front rise and a belt should keep them at the correct location. Or if you're ready to move away from jeans, your body is the ideal candidate for suspenders.

Those pants are too small.

>>15509513
Still strange to see those large wrinkles then, if there is enough space the fabric should hang freely and create a straight line. Are they too long and touching the ground?

New Thread
>>15509540
>>15509540
>>15509540
>>15509540
>>15509540

>>15509526
Oh, sure, they are absolutely too small.

I would love to wear suspenders because I suffer from intestinal problems and belts are a nightmare but I never wear a jacket and I would look like a fucking idiot if I did at work. I barely go out too.
>>15509538
No, it's either the ass or my lack of backleg muscle that gives them that shape there.

>>15509513
You may need a different cut (athletic) or 512s

Do a squat in the jeans and see if you can stretch / break them in.