/fa/ - Fashion

i like that yoshi quote

>>10468161
The full interview was even better, full of wisdom.

For anyone that's new to Yohji
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O4F5kxw-7Uw

http://blackparadox.us/post/130648628802/yohji-yamamoto-interview-2016-ss

recent yy interview

why was a new thread needed

yang li aw12

>>10468204
will bump it up

>>10468183
Yes, fast fashion ruined everything. People waste clothing. They buy and buy, sometimes without even wearing it, and ultimately end up swinging it in the trash. It is pollution. Even some products that are used to make the clothes are toxic. There is already so much unnecessary waste in the world. How many planes are flying in the sky right now? The earth is becoming warmer. She is angry. We should really think about how to better manage our industry. I am not an environmentalist, but for some time I have felt very strongly that the earth is angry. We need everyone to calm down. Do not rush. It’s tiring – those people who always want more. Money is a boring thing, don’t you think? Something that is meant to bring comfort is making people uncomfortable.

Damn

>>10468197
Because the last thread was focused only on one narrow topic, the runway. I want to talk to people who actually buy and wear these clothes because way to few people are vocal about it (besides Rick General.)

>>10468211
this

>>10468197
we desperately need more threads that are actually on fashion

fuck, OP should make like two more

>>10468211
I see

Anyone else into dries here?

pretty much exclusively buying that with some occasional mmm/lemaire/junya at this point

been looking more at yy and cdgh but I don't really feel like it suits me at this point, eventually i'll get there just gotta find the right stuff

>Replies: 8
>Posters: 3

most recent purchase was a pair of pants from damir doma, voluminous of course and in a slubby wool. recently ive bookmarked stuff from haider ackermann, jan jan van essche, and issey miyake. wardrobe currently needs a knit sweater and a pair of crepe sole derbies i think

>>10468220
yes but we had an active one, I don't mind having two if they're active, but don't wanna end up bumping both of them

>>10468224
yea i'm kinda spamming

>>10468204


AW13 was great for Yang Li.

I really love 1 out of every 10 Yang Li pieces. His stuff is incredible where it hits but so much of the rtw is a little too out there for me.

I have the leather shirt in black (pic related) and it's simply beautiful. The construction and leather quality are flawless.

>>10468221
dries is excellent. pairs well with lanvin, prorsum, and sometimes raf. i want to get a pair of his sweat/jogger pants, and at least one of the long coats. the gigantic floral prints are on a perfect knife-edge between kitsch and cool. 90s revival via 70s nostalgia. the sheer fabrics for dvn spring summer collections are second to none

most recent buy, tried on this in their store in Paris but ended up buying another shirt, found it again and copped

these handmade embroideries are so cool, Momu had a video of how they were made but I haven't found it elsewhere

>>10468235
I kinda like the cut of some of the trousers this fall so might pick up a pair of those, always great on the runway though

shirt is definitely cool

>>10468224
check out Mens Fall 2013 by Miyake
I love futuristic stuff so this collection is so inspiring

>>10468231
Thanks for making threads that are actually on topic. You should come join the #effay chat at rizon if you want. Designer discussion there during US nights mostly.

>>10468262
dammit fucked up, should've been this pic in last post

is this thread really happening right now? am I dreaming?

>>10468264
don't make threads, pretty much never did

Just post a lot when there are threads here that I like though(so not a whole lot)

us nights mean early morning/nighttime for me unfortunately

maybe i'll check it out some weekend if I remember

>>10468265
also bought this, have another version of those pants too....

Most recent cop was another Lang piece, also got a couple of Dior lookbooks from Japan on the way

Anyone here read any books?

recently been reading my dear bomb(yy) and I like it a lot, very amusing read at times.

Also read One hundred years of menswear(Cally Blackman)which was pretty interesting, can recommend it but honestly it was kind of a slow read, veery informative though on how a lot of things developed and a bunch of cool old images and commercials

Not much into ann demeulemeester's stuff but like her as a designer, anyone have her book and can say whether it's worth getting?

>>10468208
Would you really expect anything less from our God Yohji? I'm honestly surprised he still puts up with Y-3 with how shit their production values are.

>>10468333
Just finish Blood Beneath the Skin, all about McQueen's collections, business and person life. Really fleshed out and in-depth, would recommend.

>>10468333
If you don't appreciate her aesthetic, I wouldn't go for a Demeulemeester book. I bought it and found it very appealing, but I really like her stuff.

I would try and find one of the older Raf or Helmut books - those are my absolute favorites.

>>10468343
needs the money probably, as i've understood it there's some y-3 that's more 'lux' and made in Japan though(often runway stuff) it's all branded the same but there should be a noticeable quality difference

at least that's how it used to be not sure if still the case but I think so

>>10468344
Thanks, similar to savage beauty?

(if you've read it)

>>10468350
I like the aesthetic, just wouldn't really want to wear most of it

will have to see if I can check it out somewhere before buying

>>10468360
Not exactly, there are a few pictures but they're mostly photos of him with friends, family and lovers.

Really the main focus of the book is his relationships with people like Isabella Blow, it only barely touches on the actual design aspects of his shows and more on the processes and the aftermaths.

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on Saint Laurent's Spring 2016 show that just happened. In my opinion, there seemed to be two aesthetics that Mr Slimane was pushing - a "normal" (I don't mean that in a bad way) style like in pic related, and his classic rockstar, heroin-chic vibe.
I'm hoping that this ever so slight escape from 100% punk waif look means that there could be some new originality from SLP.
I really like their clothing, don't get me wrong, but I do agree with the criticism that most of the shows are far too similar.

Recently copped a Helmut Lang raw denim jacket form ss03, the one with one leather sleeve.

>>10468370
Thanks, will pick it up at some point

>>10468413
nice, the one that was up on grailed?

>>10468417
no, bought it from Endyma, probably paid way too much but it was brand new and not the white one that pops up now and then

Anyone into Stephan Schneider here?
Own an alpaca coat from last winter which is fantastic.

Does anybody know an EU online store that carries this btw? Cant be bothered with taxes....

who /china/ here

>baidu doesn't even show results for designers who ran at shanghai fashion week

a literal shit

>>10468437
>only image available is via getty images

>>10468431
i've got an SS kimono sleeve sweater but i do'nt really like it
the neck opening is too big ;\

>>10468442
comfy

>>10468452

can someone please explain the appeal of high fashion? I just can't see what you guys see. It l seems like a huge waste of money.

>>10468461
wearing concept

>>10468456
Non-Japanese more generally...

CCP Fe-male dont know which season

>>10468465

>>10468461
If you have any vision of aesthetic pleasures and/or truths that aren't reflected by the most pedestrian images (as most should, but almost none do) then it's the only way.

>>10468461
The price is part of the appeal
Exclusivity means a lot to some people

>>10468343
I don't think he can take down y-3 if he wanted to. It grew past him to the point where he has little control.

>>10468472

>>10468474

>>10468478

>>10468480

>>10468477
http://www.noaraviv.com/hard-copy-collection/

Graduate collections >>>>> Well-adjusted runway stapes

>>10468482

>>10468431
Love schneider, sizing always fucks me on the stuff I really want though

No store, but there's a uk guy on sf selling one for 370 usd incl shipping, dunno if that makes it a good deal

+it seems like you'd get a lookbook

sz V

http://www.styleforum.net/t/508202/stephan-schneider-x8-cardigan-size-v-bnwt

>>10468473
This is the wrong way to think about fashion as an art

>>10468486

>>10468490

>>10468495

>>10468498

>>10468505

>>10468509

>>10468502

>>10468517

>>10468514

>>10468517
gif version

>>10468537
done for now

some easy pop to exit on

>>10468461
And I see fast fashion as a huge waste of fashion too.
I buy designer because there's more thought put into the process and the quality is (usually) worth it. Most clothing is the same shit rehashed over and over again and sometimes you want to wear something actually interesting, like CDG. If you take good care of your clothes, you can usually resell it instead of donating/throwing it away because most designer pieces are actually worth something.
In addition, I find that people who have a distinct sense of style are usually interesting people as well.
tl;dr I find designer, and the people who wear it, to be more interesting

>>10468437
I'm going to start layering my socks like that.

>>10468494
Why?
I think it's pretty fitting. Art is paintings, architecture, music, and so much more. Why shouldn't textile design/fashion be? It's just another way of expressing yourself. It's another visual way of enjoyment or provocation.

There's also numerous ways and examples where clothes have been used as ordinary "art". Can't find an example right now, but there are.

Also if b8. Here's your (you).

How do you guys deal with evolving preferences. I've went from prep (kek), workwear to volumnous relaxed cuts to raw, interesting pieces (think IS, lumen et umbra, devoa) and now back to a toned down almost street/normcore aesthetic. Tech/utility seems to be the next progression, starting to like (but have yet to own) a lot of acronym maharishi sisp veilance isaora and some white mountaneering

Maybe you guys could help me. About a year or two ago, I saw a bunch of shots of this early-19th-century-military style jacket, very Napoleonic War, on a runway showing. However, it was at a party and I was fairly drunk, and don't remember the designer. I think someone mentioned Ralph Lauren in connection with it, but that doesn't seem likely.

>>10468333
got a copy of cream publication's spring edition 2006 issue 4,
all about undercover's collection "t"
really cool insight into how it was conceived and really great look into jun's design philosophy

>>10468751
You should probably reread his post and what he was replying to.

>>10468832
dunno if this is the one you are looking for but, this one from Luster is legendary

what artists are you guys listening to? The only person I met who was into designer clothing had the most interesting taste in music.

>>10468848
That is pretty fantastic, fuck

But the whole appeal of the aesthetic I'm looking for are these bars across the chest, kinda like pic related. Band-jackety. I remember that the coat was grey, with some darker grey bands across the chest.

That said, I'm going to look through more of this Luster's stuff

>>10468788
Patience, I only started buying designer after lurking fa and the web for about 3 years. To be fair though I was 15 back then so I didn't have any social pressure to dress nicely but now I just get what I like.

If you must buy something make sure you'll be able to resell it later; turn it into an investment even if you lose some cash in the end.

>>10468844
God damn it

Can I please get a serious response (So not 'You can keep that' or the Laos copypasta) on what this sect of /fa/ thinks of HBA?

>>10468880

I've been listening to the new deafheaven album lately, it hasn't hit nearly the same mark as Sunbather tho. Tim Hecker (Virgins, Ravedeath 1972) has been on repeat on rainy days. Some badbadnotgood when I'm chillin and making dinner.

What about you

>>10468890
sounds like you want to be gerard way circa the black parade

WHEN I WAS


A FUCK-BOY

>>10468948
Lol
I really hope MCR isn't in my subconscious. That's grounds for suicide.

>>10468880
Weirdly, on a Tull binge. Swans dying down for me. Yowie's really fun.

>>10468917
talentless hack on the same level as ye and virgil abloh

>>10468917

The runway shows are fun, goofy, surreal, and aggressive, but what it manifests as for most consumers is not representative of this. It comes across as been trill tier hypebeast logoism. Maybe that sounds ignorant, maybe it is, but I know I fucking hate branding on my clothes. It lacks subtlety and maybe that's the issue I have with HBA collections.

>>10468917
Dump more

>>10468880

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vu1BcNeebMI

>>10468880
The smiths, MBV and Iceage(which im seeing in a month!) currently

Damn, the designer of Vêtements was just named the new creative director of Balenciaga.

>>10468917
I genuinely, unashamedly like many of Hood By Air's garments. Although it's absurd and gay I respect it for making stupid stuff with aesthetic appeal.

>>10468880
New chvrches album actually quite alot

>>10468971
>I really hope MCR isn't in my subconscious. That's grounds for suicide.

My friends were into them when I was a teenager, but even then I thought the emo subculture was cringey shite. That said, perhaps the band had some merit to them, maybe they just had an incredibly embarrassing fanbase? I dunno. I'm tempted to give them a listen and see if there's anything to them beyond my memories of swoopy fringes and jack skellington gloves

>>10468880
/mu/core to be honest

>>10468880
Lots and lots of zappa

>>10468942
good taste

feeling CCP hard lately yall

>>10469040
me too but i refuse buy into it in the current state of market

>>10468842
Awesome, haven't really read much about UC except what can be found online but i'll be picking up the book that's coming for spring(feels rly far away..)

got high hopes for it though

>>10469000
They aren't half bad, some pretty solid stuff actually, as long as you only listen to their music there's really not much wrong with it, pretty much everything that goes beyond that tho...

Even I know you hate it. I leave this here because I fucking love this collection.

>>10468984

This makes sense I guess? Vetements garments are so absurd. I kinda love it. Pic related is the north face trench coat I think from this season. Tried it on at Toto. Highly recommend checking it out if you get a chance, it's totally ridiculous

>>10469059
it's a hard pill to swallow but there's so much w/ ROOMS and CUL that I'm just cumming buckets

crappy photo tbh, actually handled this in store a few years back but didn't pick it up, hadn't seen one for sale since but been wanting a knit bomber for a while and finally had some luck when it turned up

dries fw 13 in wool alpaca mix

>>10469089
I like the clock work orange space suit in the middle

does anyone here ever buy stuff despite realizing that you aren't going to get a lot of wear out of it, and certainly not in your day to day life?

Been considering some stuff I probably wouldn't wear much, but I still think it's really gorgeous/cool, sort of like buying clothes to keep as objects and maybe for the occasional wear?

Maybe a weird question but i've been thinking about it recently

>>10469243

I have a number of garments like this right now. Most notably is the aforementioned Yang Li leather shirt. It's my "going out" shirt for sure

Pic is with a cashmere Rick blazer (excuse the wrinkle pls)

I think it's refreshing to have certain garments that are off limits except for special occasions. I always get compliments when I dress up in this shirt. I've had so many women just start feeling me because of this shirt, no joke. Always followed by "is that REAL leather?"

Any good recs for fashion related tumblrs? Anything related to cdg, yy, issey etc. would be great but i'm pretty open minded hit me with your favs

I remember someone once posted a tumblr with a bunch of quotes from designers(yy amongst others), does anyone know anything similar to that?

>>10469317
Agreed that it could refreshing to have stuff that you rarely wear that you pull out once in a while

dumping some sacai, aw14

>>10469324
Unashamed plug for my own Tumblr, but its what you described, so I dont feel bad.

http://trickfauxens.tumblr.com/

>>10469345

Finally a good thread.

Can we have a thread like this on a regular basis?

>>10469352

>>10469353

>>10469360

>>10469348
Good stuff, tyvm

>>10469353
I think so, i'm up for trying to keep them bumped at least

I just wonder if there's enough people interested to keep them going without it becoming some sort of echo chamber with just a few posters?

>>10469370

>>10469375

>>10469379

>>10468890
This one? It's SLP.

>>10469370
>Echo chamber

Yeah I guess thats a concern, the /rick/ threads are a bit of an echo chamber, but that group still finds enough to talk about to fill up thread after thread.

Also, I don't think Rick ever got better than 'GLEAM' F/w 10

>>10469384
Pretty much, I think
The more and more I look, the more I think it was when Slimane was working for Dior

>>10468517
>>10468525
>>10468495
>>10468480
>>10468478
>>10468474
All of these give me dat special feeling.

>>10469089
The jacket and pants on the right would make a dope skiing outfit

>>10469353
I'll try to make new ones when I can. I was afraid no one would post in them but this one turned out so well I'll keep it up.

Today's Cop

Céline ss10

>>10469592
not sure if anyone actually cares for céline here but whatever, diversity is good

>>10469600

>>10469604

>>10469607
philo herself

Early Jun Takahashi is some of my favorite stuff out there, I still like most of the recent Undercover collections, but not as much as the older ones.

"SCAB" around 02 - 03 include some really sick patchwok, some which I love because of how extremely detailed, and totally destroyed they are, yet some pieces manage to look elegant in their own right just like that. He's a master of that punk-ish look.

Some of the crust pants/distressed jeans he has made have been a grail for me for a long time, and I'm planning on recreating one myself soon.

>>10469620

>>10469625

>>10469630

>>10469634

>>10468537
>>10468517
>>10468525
Total fashion idiot, first thing in the thread I think is actually good looking. How do I into patrician fashion?

>>10468880
Lots of Coil, Prurient, Akitsa. Really been into Dvorak and Stockhausen recently too. Glass is always good.

>>10468981
This

Don't mind me some UC (fw06)

>>10469683

>>10469688

>>10469648
If you're totally new to fashion i'd say be patient and figure out what you like/what suits you before you get into the buying part(nothing wrong with testing the waters though and trying stuff out, just don't buy an entire wardrobe at once)

for lots of people there's quite a disparity between what they like when just getting into it and what they like after getting a bit more into it

if you find something you like in a thread try to find out more

>>10469716

I made a thread like this last week but it just died .. :(

lanvins SS was everything SLP should be right now

>>10469648
Exactly what you've done here. Isn't that wonderful? A lot of people don't watch shows because they love everything that comes down a runway. I don't like quite a bit of what walks in most shows. However you just watch and wait for that turn and you go, "I am still a fashion idiot, how do I get into a headspace that makes a garment like that" And then you start connecting pieces across time, building a network of references, so that pieces you thought you'd never consider become entangled conceptually with other clothing you /did/ like a lot. There's a lot of circulation at work. It just starts with waiting, patiently observing for a moment that grounds the next moment you wait, and then the next. It is more spiritual I think, if you choose to do it this way, than the tumblr approach which does give the show its autonomy to give and take. Generally it'll just be highlights, a mattering of textile samples of things you already like, whatever is most street friendly, etc. Watching the full of it--it's truly like a hunt. Fun, exciting, and often times slow and meditative.

>>10469716
>>10469743
I wish I hadn't have spent this time thinking it through when you said basically what I did while I was writing it. Should have refreshed ;_;

>>10469721
A.F vandevorst aw12

>>10469743
*which DOESN'T give the show

>>10468880
the panty and stocking soundtrack

>>10469746

>>10469752

>>10468465
>>10468472
>>10468477
>>10468495
>>10468502
>>10468517
>>10468525
>>10469683
>>10469688
>>10469716
>>10469721
Can someone explain to me who the fuck wears/buys this shit? I've have never seen someone dressed like this outside of a fashion show.

>>10469743
That's helpful, thanks

>>10469716
And I don't mean for buying, just for appreciation. I'm way too poor to buy any of this, but it's fun to analyze.

>>10469758

>>10469762

>>10469745
don't think what you said is that similar

>>10469761
Vogue and firstview are good resources for finding pictures

>>10469771

>>10469759
Even though I posted more than half of that I actually don't really know where 90% of the fashion produced by season actually goes. At least in the case of what I posted many of those are singular pieces that will be kept either by the University or a Museum or a private collector. I wish it was more visible. The fact that most of (even the RTW collections) don't make it out into the common gaze speaks a bit to the problematic nature of those who can actually afford to bring fashion there more than the designers themselves. I wish good art were more public than it is.

>>10469759
In short: Nobody wears this stuff irl

Its a runway show. The styling is wild to entertain, and help the designer present his ethos for a collection.

>>10469782
Well I have definitely seen UC 06 in public, and it *is* made for everyday wear, so I would dissent on your opinion that none of that is made for the street. However people need to learn to look both at and beyond composition. First you need to be able to look at the "look" on its own, regardless of self-insertion and how you would "look" in it. Then secondarily to then break a composition apart and see singular movements that /would/ be good in a basic wardrobe. Could be as simple as >>10468657
saying he wants to do his socks a certain way as brought forward to him by a look. Or it could be any other detail or the whole garment itself. No single take on a collection is sufficient. You must take multiple actors in concert.

>>10469803
Oh no! My point wasn't that it wasn't made for the street. (Double negative there) My point was that the styling is ostentatious so it looks crazy on the runways, but individual pieces are wearable.

>>10469810
Oh, oh, my apologies.

Yes, in total agreement then.

>>10469780
lots of designers barely produce anything that they show on the runway for the stores

makes you appreciate people like dries, that actually produces everything they throw on the runways

makes sense too because a lot of the designs are very expensive to make, and despite ridiculous pricetags they end up losing money

footwear accessories fragrances etc is where the profits are at


>>10469782
very rare, but go to Paris during fashion week and you can get pretty close to some of the looks

nilos ss16 actually looks pretty decent

seems hes moved away from the cheesy bbs11 look

>>10469826
I suppose other huge cities are fine too but outside of Paris(and to some extent London and NY) i've never seen any of the really dope stuff

>>10469761
Another thing to do is to just browse around fashion magazines. Sometimes you'll just hate a collection, but then you see how someone else reanimates it in ways that just humble how shortsighted you were about everything. The nice thing about fashion, again, is just how nicely it circulates. You just start seeing larger stratagems of aesthetics and see the very strange aesthetic genealogy taking place before you. A jumble of descendants and antecedents. Hard to tell which is which at any given time and it flip flops with no respect to chronology. Could be a day when you see a lookbook that uses a Dior piece that never struck you as of a certain lineage, and then you see it again and it feels like it's totally apart of another one, and so forth depending on how its styled and worn, etc.

>>10469887

Great thread going on here.

What are the opinions of Christophe Lemaire?

Honestly, I though his f/w15 was amazing. I've been loving his aesthetic lately

>>10469892
Really all I'm saying that unlike other media, fashion is endlessly recontextualized. Even more so than print. Between its formal and casual "editions" clothing is so dynamic and really never stops renewing itself.

>>10469902
Good, been a fan for a while but not much of a consumer

I do have a few nice pieces from him though, pic related is my fav, fantastic quality

the menswear is good but the womenswear is superior

trousers always have a nice cut

If in Paris, their store there is super nice

>>10469759
It really depends on the piece and where you live. I recently hung with some Chinese kids at my uni who wear expensive and crazy shit all the time, but they tend to keep to themselves so that explains why I never noticed them before.

Also if you're serious about fashion I can't recommend shui tsang's blog enough.

>>10468390
This just looks boring.

>>10469810
>>10469822
>>10469803
This thread is magical

putting fashion back on top

'Special Relativity' dump

>>10470591

>>10470597

>>10470603

one of the more memorable menswear collections of the last five years for sure

>>10470609
what's so special about it?

>>10470611
a re-imagining of classic Margiela decontructed suiting for the TSA era

>>10468452
What's going on with her front foot?

>>10470609
Also going through old Arsenicum shows. Lot of shit. SHIT. But I rather like this simple t-shirt wrap. Surprised I don't see this more often.

>>10470662
...but it's mostly stuff like this

>>10470591
This is really sick

I dunno, how about some Aganovich from last year, to keep the theme of deconstruction

>Ann D will never do this style again
just end it

>>10470698
Oh and she's also Russian like Arsencium is, so there's a bit more to tie it together

>>10470703

>>10470705
~

>>10470708

>>10470711
And I'll close on one from her first menswear line (sorry for the delay)

>>10469243
Yeah.

Mainly summer shit for me as it never really gets hot enough for super thin cottons etc here

>>10469525
That's not really suitable for this thread

>>10470751
what about dsm stocking dime alongside 'high' fashion, also pic...

>>10470768
They also stock CDG play but that doesnt make it great either

>>10470789

Cuz DSM is by CdG...?

>>10470768
DSM generally stock a lot of streetwear brands, eg. Gosha, Supreme, etc. Both Gosha Rubchinskiy and Supreme have worked together with CdG though. It's probably also because brands like Dime and Bianca Chandon have relations to Supreme.

>>10469427
He made what was essentially a black version of that jacket while at dior. You can actually get it for decently cheap when they pop up. One of my biggest regrets is not buying it when my size was on ebay.

>>10470840
It's this one. It's on ebay right now for 1300 but that price is a joke. It's more likely to get 300.

>>10470591
>>10470597
these two in particular are really interesting. Did the designer mention inspiration? Do designers do that at all?

>>10470667
That is the most uninspired thing I've seen in ages. But good on you for taking the good out of the bad

>>10470705
Gorgeous. Love the clashing pinstripe.

>>10470847
I think that's the closest I'm ever going to get. I was probably hallucinating about the fabric anyway...

Thank you very much

>>10470930
Aha, yah it was a slog. Not worth it to me, and not recommended to anyone. Must be how fashion students feel raiding archives for their senior productions.

>>10470928
"Alan Taylor's menswear collection for Autumn/Winter 2013 is a careful selection of garments, with equal consideration paid to the way those garments are constructed. It explores the idea of juxtaposition in both concept and silhouette.

The main inspiration this season was the theory of the 4th dimension: if we were 4-dimensional beings looking at a 3-dimensional object, we wouldn't see the 2-dimensional view that our eyes perceive in reality. Theoretically, we would see every single side of the object simultaneously.

This came into Taylor’s designs through the meshing-together of individual garments. The evolution of precise outfit details into single garments became the focus of the collection: jackets seemed to grow naturally out of the back of other jackets, trousers layered with flattened shorts and jacket vents. To develop this idea even more, the juxtapostion of fabrics within the garments themselves - this season, mainly nets and tweeds - has furthered Taylor’s overall ethos. His aim is to push the interpretation of modern menswear.

This season Taylor broadens his color and fabric story with a fresh palette of both tone and texture. Taylor worked closely with Magee Tweeds, a cornerstone of Ireland’s weaving heritage, choosing a considered range from their repertoire that is directional while staying true to his own aesthetic. These tweeds provide a base for the collection, by adding a contemporary texture while still representing Magee’s classic techniques. Ranging from charcoal grey to textured crimson and navy blue, the tweeds are juxtaposed with complementary nets and cotton shirting.

Alan Taylor's AW13 collection is not trying to be an over the top departure from contemporary menswear. Rather, it develops classic ideas while taking a fresh look at construction and fabrication."

>>10470953
And I found an interview!

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15546/1/alan-taylor-aw13

>>10468880
90% Techno these days
the rest is gipsy jazz, shoegaze and hip-hop

>>10471025
you like caravan palace?

>>10470609
like this

>>10471025
which techno ??

>>10470698
really like aganovich, haven't really looked into their menswear beyond ln-cc's offerings though, seems nice though

>>10468880
Classical, some random Vocaloid shit, rap, anything really.

>>10468264
fuck yes #effay crew

>>10471337
>1337

noice

>>10468880
I listen music only in gym. So, only tbdm, pretty ok for lifting.

>>10468942
normie

>>10471044
do you like bénabar and aldebert?

sidebar: the rick owens store opened in LA on La Brea

>>10468880
Grizzly Bear tbh

>>10469600
i can appreciate céline for sure

>>10469739
gorgeous, i loved the lanvin collection (sorry on mobile can't dump pics)

Hey guys loving the thread, just want to know how do I make the jump from fast to high-end fashion? I'm poor af and can barely afford to buy cheap stuff nevermind good stuff. So how do you guys do it?

>>10471605
Examine your spending and cut/save whatever you don't need. Do you get coffee every day? Stop and put that money into your clothing fund. Buy second hand. It's really not that expensive if you find good deals.
Alternatively, thrift so you develop a better sense of style before you go and waste hundreds on stuff you'll only wear for a little while before you change styles.

>>10471390
Idk them I only listen to caravan palace occasionally so I'm not that into the genre

>>10469600
i love phoebe
a lot of people never mention her, it's upsetting

>>10471707
It's because /fa/ is filled with fuccbois who don't know anything about women's fashion.

The Vuitton show this season was GOAT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q57UbjigjIU
also that minecraft and tron legacy sample

>>10471768
this pretty much, not surprising either considering how little womenswear is posted on here

>>10471605
Start by upgrading your wardrobe with contemporary labels. Acne, APC, Sandro etc.

You don't want to be wearing a Rick jacket over all HM.

Jil sander ss13, Jil's first after Raf left

remember I didn't like this too much at first but it grew on me a bit

a transitional collection so I guess it was to be expected

>>10471844

>>10471845

>>10471851

>>10471605
buy less but put more into each item, disregard this when you NEED stuff

also for now, skimp on basics and buy them from uniqlo or whatever suits you

Unfortunately this can be hard to do(or at the very least take some time) if you lack money and can't just cut stuff out of your budget

I'd also say to never put fashion on the absolute top of your priority list, your call though

YSL ss11(Stefano Pilati)

>>10471875

>>10468984
Love Vetements but their pricing is atrocious for what you get and I can't see Demna and Balenciaga 'meshing' well. Also that's Gosha walking in their ss16 show

>>10471879

>>10471885

yy ss1998

>>10471907

>>10471910

>>10471917
always liked the diversity of models in yy shows

>>10471707
Agreed. One of the greatest talents currently working.

>>10471923

>>10471791
This is everything I wanted when Ghesquiere was appointed at LV. Very reminiscent of his spring 09 collection for Balenciaga.

>>10468390

I see girls at my shitty flyover state college wearing this all the time

>>10471932
His work with leathers and thick wovens is next level, going to LV and getting their leather atelier only made it better. I couldn't think of any other designer that does tailored leather in a better way. After working with patent PVC in my own collection, i've come to appreciate him more and more.

>>10469427
There is a cloak (gellerXplokhov) one a guy had on styleforum for awhile but he was completely unable to style it. Cant find a picture for the life of me.

Why isn't unisex clothes still not a thing? I really think unisex is the right way to go.

>>10471982
it's hard to get the sizing correctly since some men still select clothes with the muh manliness point of view, and women still buy form fitting

dries fw06

>>10471982
the corner and a few other webshops have selections that's titled unisex, but it feels really weak to me

pretty much just a moneygrab(grabbing money is their job after all)

Another way of selling menswear to women

lots of stuff is pretty much unisex even though it isn't labelled as such

i.e lots of dries or lemaire menswear could easily work for women

same doesn't really apply to womenswear though

i'd buy things labelled unisex but the vast majority of men probably wouldn't touch it

+ womenswear is already filled with menswear

>>10471998

>>10472003

>>10472007

>>10472008

>>10472010

>>10472016

>>10471982
look into Rad Hourani

>>10468390
It's shit. You can see that at any American uni. It only looks good because it's on a runway.
Hedi is a hack.

Nice thread guys, dont let it die

>>10472093
>actually believing hedi is a hack
this must just be an internet thing

>>10472135
>Implying his designs nowadays are interesting or relevant in any way

>>10472134
A. F. Vandevorst

>>10472170

>>10472172

For anyone who cares..

http://vestoj.com/conversations-on-slowness-4/

Great interview with Lemaire

http://vestoj.com/conversations-on-slowness-2/

Another one with dries

>>10472175
Helmut

>>10472183

>>10472193
CCP

>>10472198

>>10472142
>hedi's designs
>not relevant today
lol wut

>>10468984
Not really sure about the appointment but at least it shouldn't be boring

>>10472193
great

>>10472135
nothing of value has come from him for quite a while now, but obviously he's been quite influential previously...

>>10468880
Rodeo on repeat lately, fight me

>>10472257
retweet

>>10472224
Not that guy, but go to any major fashion school and check the collections, no one (and for a long time) has been at all interested in Hedi or wants to continue his thinking. Only in some of self-preserving, insular fashion networks is he deemed significant to present trends/concepts of fashion.

>>10470953
>>10470969
I fucking knew it

Thanks, mate

>>10472257
this

>>10472281
i go to a fashion school
all the professors love his stuff
they hate his pricing

>>10472324
Yah, the professors, the old guard, not the students.

dd fw10

>>10472371

>>10472375

>>10472376

>>10472379

>>10472385

>>10471044
Electro-swing is honestly the worst bullshit ever

>>10472337
all any of the design students i spoke with were talking about was demna going to balenciaga and hedi's slip dresses

the internet is the only place i ever hear hate for hedi

>>10472407
Could be just a regional thing.

>>10472407
>implying most fashion students have good taste in any way

literally 1% of them actually make it to more than someone just following orders.

>>10472450
>literally 1% of them actually make it to more than someone just following orders.
lol is that really your argument?

definitely do agree that a lot of the students i see around have trash taste, though
i discard the opinion of anyone who likes jeremy scott

do you go to a fashion school or are you one of the stem majors on here who feel superior becaus muh job security?

>>10472471
That guy isn't me, I just chalked it up to regional discrepancies. I personally don't know anyone who looks up to Hedi or keeps him rotating on inspo boards.

>>10472519
oh no i knew it was someone else
i didn't really have a response to your regional comment, as i've never left my area.

>>10472471
No, I don't work in fashion directly, but I have friends who study in Antwerp and London and even though I love them dearly, most of them have awful taste in fashion. It's always FASHUNZ with them and not fashion.

>>10472524
That's fair. As much as made of the "globalization of fashion." I see so much effort made by design/fashion students to intensely localize their projects--either to their city, state, or school (speaking mostly of NYC/Beijing.)

>>10472534
oh yeah that's a concept that's drilled into our heads here in LA. professors constantly slam the local designers for making clothes that are only functional for our area. the few design classes in my program, i definitely make an effort in to design for other climates.

>>10472527
royal academy and csm?
if they're in design programs, then, because of your reaction, they're most likely those "i'm so eccentric" people. i agree with you in that regard.

first day at fashion school my design professor compared current slp to forever 21 aesthetically but applauded Hedi's ability to make sl a shitload of money.

>>10472541
hahaha that's awesome
my professor compared slp to apple, since hedi just keeps updating the same styles, and then slammed him for his pricing

>>10468161
>>10468180
See the Wim Wenders doc, it's called "Notebook on cities and clothes", it's retty great as well.

>>10472546
most slp just seems like high quality fast fashion at this point tbh

seeing stuff like>>10468390 under saint laurent is quite depressing

>>10472556
well for 1) that's a result of fast fashion companies having the ability to rip runway trends and stock them globally within 2 weeks (see: Zara)
and 2) hedi has a lot of misses when he styles the models
that's the problem i have with hedi

>>10472546
Yeah I think the dude worked in the industry for quite awhile so he had an appreciation for profitability. But yeah most of the students have shit test. Another professor was listing designers to check out for drawing, dries, margiela, Comme des Garcons etc. I was just like jesus christ as everyone scrambled to spell kawukabo. But I guess coming into fashion almost purely from the internet is a very different perspective then being a girl and wanting to make dresses.

>>10472546
>hedi just keeps updating the same styles

I think this is the core of what most people are thinking when they call his work irrelevant. His output *is* in many ways an expensive foam he's layered atop of much more substantial body of work. Not only may it be argued that his clothing is irrelevant more widely, it follows that its also irrelevant to understanding his core design processes (besides, perhaps, iteration and repetition.)

>>10472562
The quintessential "taught by the internet" moment in undergrad. Happens in a lot of fields.

>>10472553
this

>>10472560
Meant more that they're super boring but I guess your point is part of the issue

>>10472562
>But I guess coming into fashion almost purely from the internet is a very different perspective then being a girl and wanting to make dresses.
fucking this man

this is 4chan, we're all, for the most part, fucking shut ins
and because of this, i just spend all day looking at collections and reading as many interviews on designers as i can
i've had so many conversations with people where they didn't even know simple names like margiela, and some that did only knew him from kanye and rocky's references

i've gotten to the point where i only really talk fashion with my small group

>>10472562
Last part is very true

>>10472581
yet to find such a group but u give me hope anon

>>10472578

>>10472578
i understand the whole "hedi is boring" argument, but the way he tackles ready to wear is literally ready to wear. [if people could afford it] his clothes could just be picked up from a rack and worn, and fit into any wardrobe. a lot of people find that monotonous, especially to be putting that on the runway, but i personally like the concept of having a cartoon character's closet.

>>10472568
i see what you're saying.
his influence on runways has really dwindled apart from his pushing of the skinny silhouette, but he hasn't done anything that drastic in years. even then, it could be argued he bit raf and exaggerated it.
i think his relevancy is more in how people dress rather than how people design. i don't think i can support this statement tbh

>>10472594
some of the people in my group began researching designers as a result of talking to me
that sounds arrogant, but i pretty much drilled the idea to my friends that they should study designers as much as possible, especially since most of them want to design
i like the production and business side more, so i'm trying to mold people to work for me haha

>>10472599
You can say that about any piece of fast fashion clothing. Your point is moot.

>>10472643
the point of fast fashion is to take those wearable high fashion pieces and produce them for 10 cents
i'm just going to take a guess here that it costs a bit more than a dime for hedi to produce his garments

>>10472654
Your point was about the ready-to-wear aspect. Cost has nothing to do with it.

>>10472657
cost definitely does
if you're making ready to wear that isn't extravagant, you have to come with quality
quality=money

holy fuck this thread has been bumped to the top multiple times since we hit 300

we've had an increase in bump limit?

>>10472385
What glasses are those?

>>10472661
mods making the best thread up rn live a bit more

>>10472683
no clue

someone make a new one and i'll post some old interviews or w/e

>>10472581
Is it seriously that bad at those schools?

>>10472749
it can be
there are a lot of girls who are here because they need a degree to have access to their trust fund
and a lot of guys who are here because kanye made fashion cool

>>10472749
A large amount of people going there don't know much about any designers, with a handful exceptions many don't really know any designers outside of the most well known ones(i.e Armani) and even then don't know much, margiela, HL, Rei are usually just names to them, if they know of them

At least when they start out, i'd imagine they get more into it as they go

>>10472988

>>10472988

NEW THREAD

get in there, beautiful

>>10468495

That's so fucking cool

I'm completely open to having my opinion changed. I really like the Saint Laurent look, whether you want to call it rockstar or heroin-chic or whatever. But I'm kind of swayed by all the criticism of Hedi I see here. What are the alternatives? Who is doing heroin chic in an interesting and innovative way?