/fa/ - Fashion

Haider did surprice me for good, i'd never seen his work before :)

Valentino

>>10029511

>never seen his work before

where have you been living

so far I enjoyed Lemaire mostly

>>10029629

I wish I could afford to dress in Valentino.

>>10029693

also didn't quite fully get raf but I see it growing on me in the future

>>10029698

who wouldn't would imply you are rich

>>10029705
i liked the hoods

>>10029693
christophe lemaire killed it i loved the simplicty. by far my favorite collection.

I'm digging this boyscout-core by kolor

dries was disappointing now I'm sad

>>10029768
>>10029768

true

i'm an SLP model and I think and I'm not up about it all. I'll try do an AMA like I did for the last show, but I'm sorry I can't tell you anything about the show just yet

>>10031055
That would be great.
>tfw the show is in two days
Really liked fw 15, although Hedi didn't come up with anything that much different, i still admire the whole style.

>>10029629
valentino was amazing
>>10029759
this feels kind of like a callback to some of his older work, with the hoods, i know he's done hoods and masks like this in the past.


also anyone know what's up with the marylin monroe motif in the dries show?

>>10029693
very clean show, i really liked it

>>10031055
No one gives a shit you narcissistic cunt.

>>10032330
hes a model what would u expect

I love the silhouette and especially the pants in this BBS piece.

>>10029488
yohji and lelmaire. I havent liked ricks last two collections. rafs was terrible too

>>10032331
Someone who knows how to act like a professionals, and not like a child who got their first acting spot on some late night commercial.

>>10031055
just how did u get scouted?

>>10032347
Shut up you anal cunt no one cares.

>>10032358
You do apparently

Yohji Yamamoto

>>10032387
on the fence about those shoes, they look cool, but the fabric on the inner sides of the shoes are ugly.

>>10032387
that dudes expression kek
>JUST

i enjoyed:

raf (especially the pants)

yohji (except for most of the shoes)

and some of dries but most of it just seemed to patterny even if that was their goal

>>10032397
yeah i don't even know how these shoes works, they look they wear loosely

>>10029759
the chain!
i need to take a look@ this collection now

>>10032472
the chain is a attached to a satchel

>>10031708
dries is a firm believer that real women have curves

>>10029901
Those hiking boot /sandal Frankensteins are beyond comprehension

Ann D in two hours!!
(not that it matters since she left...)

>>10031055
>i'm an slp model

so you're not a real model ,you're just anorexic and ugly or in a shitty NME band. congrats.

valentino was my favorite, really loved hawaiian shirts and japanese style bombers (a lot of designers seem to be doing these this season) and i loved how they styled stuff with blue jeans

i was really disappointed in raf this season, just seemed like he was trying to hop onto the androgynous/vetements bandwagon, was just really poorly executed.

>>10033479
>like he was trying to hop onto the androgynous/vetements bandwagon

kill yourself

>>10029488
Where/how fo you guys stream this?

Deets please

>>10033484
:D

What were the ladies wearing?

best raf show in yrs tbh

>>10033510
Lol no f/w 14 was the best show he did since 2008. S/s 15 is acceptable too, the rest sucks ass

>>10033489
this

pls

>>10029511
damn that face is so /fa/...
>that hair
>those eyebrows
omg

>>10032333
>jizz all over hair and face
wtf

>>10033479
>vetements bandwagon
what the fuck are you even talking about

>>10029488
Hey who is this model. I am seeing him everywhere. Literally saw him on a DKNY billboard wtf.

>>10029488
Where can I watch it?

>>10033608
kim sang woo hes super popular right now

when will gosha go up for sale

>>10033608
He's also an H&M model

Where do you guys see the presentations?

>>10033944
The shows? Rick had a stream on his website but I don't know for the others.

others will probably be on youtube soon

This was sick.

NOW WATCH ME WHIP

did galliano design the margiela menswear,too? why is this so good

anyone see the juun j show, loving the use of denim and some of the sick cuts.

took forever for me to find these

>>10034025
raf simons velcro stans coming soon?

>>10034161

>>10034018
love that print so much

>>10034146
lol whats the deal with the flip flops tho?

>>10029488
slowly awaiting wooyoungmi

>>10034189
i wanna say it's just because it's a SS show, but your guess is as good as mine.

>>10034196
this, wooyoungmi is a great menswear designer, can't wait to see what she has in store, same with sacai

This is the best thread I've seen in a while. The main reason why I visit /fa/. Please keep them coming.

>>10034235
2spooky4me

>>10034242
calls his show sefiroth
no sephiroth cosplay

>>10034249
would rock giant blanket over head

>>10034154
adonis for julius makes my heart race

>>10034261
i noticed he had a lot more black models for this.

>LV not shitting their logo and patterns all over the clothing piece
Would cop jacket

>>10034270
considering the obvious tribal/african influence i think it was the right choice. the face paint looks really goofy on the white dudes

>>10034249
this is what you wear when you have bad facial aesthetics.

>>10034277
yeah, glance over some of the stuff and it was pretty cool, too bad basic bitches will never see any of this.

>>10034281
pretty good call, I'd say as well.

semi related topic because she's supposed to be showcasing at paris fashion week, but what do you guys think of jazz kuipers?

>>10034235
This is fucking awesome

Phillip Lim's GoT aesthetics

>>10034235
no clue how the hell one could wears this but i fucking love it

>tfw u goth deep in ur soul

>>10029705
It's a reference to old peoples clothes, just look at the colours, patterns and textiles.
Pretty sure the hoods represent some kind of brotherhood among them

>>10034393
Also: There's some kind of parallel between old people hanging out together (maybe even war buddies or sth) and gangs nowadays represented by the hoods (Youth culture, Gangs...) and the Grandma textiles (Old people)

I really liked Walter Van Beirendonck and Junya Watanabe. As far as more wearable pieces I liked Lemaire and Raf, especially Raf's outerwear. Issey Miyake and Yohji were pretty cool too. Dries Van Noten sucked

Because fuck your sleep

>>10034516
need that pattern as my bed sheet

>>10029488

>>10034432
LV POUT SWAG. EMINEM 2

>>10034550
Just torch my shit up

>>10034578

>>10033484
gtfo you dumb assfuck.

>>10034277
So ugly

Tell babushka I'm coming back for dinner

>tisci and his boys are late

>>10034621

Gosha's knitwear are on point this season

Am I late to the party?

Just heard about our guy Rick knocking a nigga out

>>10034641
So late man.

>>10029488
GOLF WANG SS16 BEST SHOW HANDS DOWN. OTHERS WERE PURE SHIT

>>10034674
wait, is this shit real, or are you trolling?

>>10034691
its Kit Neale lol

>>10034699
fug, i was like how the fuck did tyler of all people have a succesful fashion house that walks the runway.

>>10034331
>>10034323
>>10034206
these guys look like theyre from a different planet

Bump for /fa/ actually having a fashion thread and not some shitty wash your face thread or how should I fuck up my next haircut thread

>>10029488
Bump for an actual fashion thread and not some shitty wash your face thread or how should I fuck up my next hair cut thread.

Loved Juun J and Julius shows

>>10034154
>>10034235
>>10034249
>>10034252
>>10034263
>>10034270
>>10034275
>>10034295
>>10034333
Really interesting to see Horikawa bringing Julius back to where it was like 5 years ago. The futuristic stuff he had been exploring the past few seasons were really interesting but Ive always like the more draped and militaristic look he did in the past.
>>10034500
>>10034544
Who was this? That first crinkle blazer is incredible.

>>10034790
>Who was this? That first crinkle blazer is incredible.
julien david! underrated show imo

Margiela

Denim at Juun was a welcome addition to his usual roster of tailoring/technical fabrics. I do hate when there are gimmicky styling things like wigs (unless they're executed REALLY well), so I found that a bit of an off note. Juun's skirted around the idea of workwear/nautical-wear before and some of the more literal looks were actually some of the best, once you look at them as individual pieces without the runway styling. The proportions are always familiar, but new fabrics and patterns gave the line much more life and range. It worked so well you have to be a bit surprised that he hasn't taken this tack before.

>>10034469

Junya's danced on the line between appropriation and inspiration before and he's usually pretty good about it, but I felt some of the more obvious styling cues (e.g. Maasai collars) a bit too on the nose for my liking. Underneath it all, though, the fabrics are fantastic and never felt like they were being inappropriately used. There's a loving care taken to such intense pattern making that you know Watanabe and his team really love these textiles and prints. Plenty of interesting shirts, as always, but nothing that jolted me out of my seat like his other collections have.

>>10034805
Godly fit

>>10034790

Agreed. I think the aggressive plays with structure and silhouette were fun conceptual forays, but never had the strength of execution and believability of wear that other collections did. The spiritual suits Horikawa well because it endows clothes that could be a bit ridiculous with enough soberness that you really believe it as a proposition for daily dress. After all, what's more metal or DIY than saying "fuck it", renouncing your worldly possessions, and staying in the same robe every day?

damir doma bretty good imo

>>10034632

Agreed that they were some of the strongest pieces. It's obviously a niche label targeted only to its own constituents and fans, which is fine, but it's nice when you see some pieces that can exist outside of his tightly controlled, perfectly constructed world.

>>10034862
i think this season ventured faaaaaar outside of the norm of his usual "tightly controlled" world. less basics like sweatsuits and tshirts and less "streetwear" oriented pieces (i think) show his skill as a designer and his ability to capture the soviet union-era fashion aesthetic he was going for. im so excited to see how he develops as a designer

>>10034611
those pants are fire

>>10034691
>>10034726
drop trip

Where are all of you seeing these images? Is there somewhere I can browse all the designers collections?

>>10034876
Same here
Wanna cop that 1984 kint pretty bad
The grey jacket with the russian flag on the chest was really cool

>>10034884
hes not even tripping retard at least hes contributing to the thread what are you doing?
>>10034886
nowfashion.com has live picture updates

Underrated thread
https://instagram.com/p/4ZaLc1PFZS/
>tfw kids walking the runway

uhhhhhhhh whats up with the dresses/female models at the givenchy show?

nothing good yet, a few pieces with jesus printed on them.

>>10034876
This is one of his worst seasons imo. It was so fucking gimmicky and in your face, there was absolutely nothing left to the imagination. Still alright but certainly not even close to his best show.

>>10034917
Oh and Ive been meaning to ask. Does anyone know where I can get pictures from Gosha's older shows. His site only has back to fw12 it seems.

>>10034913
literally one of the outfits is just lingerie

>>10034876

I mean "his world" insofar as I'm talking about this re-imagined wardrobe for this keyed-in, but left-out Soviet teenager that he designs for. Of course he has to expand his range and develop more categories and styles as a business necessity, but can you imagine anyone who isn't already a fan of his line turning into a fan with this showing? I can't and that's all I meant by that.

>>10034913

Women's resort market overlaps with men's spring. It's been a fact of life for seasons now.

>>10034886
style.com
wwd.com
thefashionisto.com

>>10034985
Thank you

>>10034985
>>10034886
Use firstview. You can find tons of collections you wont find anywhere else unless you use a paid membership site.

apart from the marilyn obsession, dries had some cool pieces

>>10034957
i think this is quite intresting since fashion moves to fuse gender anyways

>>10034331

invoker cosplay

>>10035757
lol

>>10035063

He couldn't get Elvis. The Surrealist/Pop Art element of it is interesting and is more explicitly "now" than a lot of what he's done recently. I didn't really feel the Marilyn thing, either, though I appreciate that he didn't get too ham-handed with it.

>>10035648

It's not a push towards unisex or anything. It's just a reality of a global economy.

>>10033479
Sorry to tell you but Raf has been playing with masculinity and androgyny since the 90s.

Weren't models under a certain bmi banned from runaways? I wonder how the SLP show will look like.

>>10035894

Dunno if that extended to male models.

>>10035902
SEXISM

>>10035894
>>10035902
was only in France and Finland and was for both sexes

>>10035919
Paris is in France dumbass

>>10035894
b-but I don't want to see /fit/ slp show

>>10036074
>Paris
>In France

Please tell me you're kidding, are you from america?

>>10035894
My book in Milan instead of having some generic text about returning it to the agency if found had a bit about the importance of staying a healthy weight and the number to an eating disorder clinic.

>>10035919

Highly doubt they would enforce it on men though, it's purely to please the feminists who don't want women to ever have to feel bad

>>10029693
This is fucking awful

>>10036163
great criticsm man. what dont you like about it specifically or are you just being an edgy contrarian?

when is saint laurent?
I tried looking but i cant understand any of these websites or calendars

Looks like the Ann D funnelled through Hedi Silmane vision is continuing this season for Ann Demeulemeester.

I'm not about to say "oh man ever since Ann left, the label has been trash" because the Ann D menswear label has been fucking crucified with some awful collections over the past five years (apart from one of her best ever collections with f/w13).

In that respect I'm enjoying these newer collections more because they have stripped down the ridiculous styling and drama that Ann D has gathered over the past 5 years and focused in on cleaner, more streamlined looks.

Streamlined seems to be the word that describes this period in the label's menswear the most actually. ss15 (a season I found fantastic) was an attempt at bringing out the fundamentals and 'essence' of Ann D and making it extremely accessible and gorgeous. Maybe not as interesting as the collection should have tried to be, but a pleasant season nonetheless.

With ss15 being a bit of a primer for things to come, the menswear has now taken those concepts of accessibility and simplicity and taken them to their logical conclusion.

fw15's best asset was its colour palette, with a careful selection of earthy hues balanced with the right amount of aggressive reds and oranges (and a drop of bright green). I thought the long coats were lovely as well. The collection's downfall was its awful, tacky use of leather (most of the fur was terrible as well, but at least conceptually interesting) and it's saint laurent levels of skinny tailoring and styling.

>>10036175
sunday 12pm paris time

>>10036178
This seasons seems to have nothing going for it if I'm honest. It's just... so bland. It's tasteless. At least fw15's tackiness was memorable.

At a surface level the Ann D fundamentals are there, a decent amount of layering, waistcoats, elongated shirts, cummerbands, cropped trousers, arbitrary styling (rolled up sleeves, jackets half done up), stripes, etc. What isn't here is any interesting clothes.

The colours are all rather sickly, and feel like they have been styled into the collection at random. The sheer fabrics are just straight up awful, with their lacklustre styling and the way they make the trousers look fragile and cheap. And the mesh is just... I don't know why I'm seeing mesh at an Ann show. Or sunglasses for that matter. What the fuck are sunglasses doing on an Ann D runway? The shoes would be nice if it weren't for the straps, but the leather trousers seem to be less offensively trashy this time round which is nice.

Ultimately the biggest problem with the collection is once again the stupidly skinny tailoring. In terms of silhouette, there are no dynamics at play here between any of the looks. No signature flaring from any of the sleeves or trousers, no drape from any of the shirts or outerwear, no play on proportion or length, just bland skinny fitted tailoring. This isn't fucking saint laurent jesus christ.

I want the Ann D label to go back to making clothes for pirates and poets lol.

>>10036178
Apart from this fit the entire thing was a big disappointment, I agree.

ss15 was so good though.

>>10034277
plus based nile rodgers live was pretty fitting

>>10034277

They haven't been doing that for a while now. Kim Jones has been running things for, what, four years?

Yohji this season was a tad forgettable really, but still a solid showing. After last season stripping things back and showcasing the Yohji aesthetic at its truest form (black, black, more black), I suppose that it makes sense for this collection to still play it rather safe while branching out a tad further than the last.

The proportions are nothing new (not that they ever were, or need to be), and the Yohji staples are all there, but there was a great selection of beautiful, somber navys among these looks, and the sudden burst (literally) of painted colour from looks 7-12 was a fantastic surprise, fizzling out slowly back into Yohji familiar dark tones. Progressions like this highlight Yohji's amazing sense for storytelling in his runway shows.

The shinier fabrics used in some of the earlier looks are absolutely gorgeous, without being as imposing as the fabrics used in ss14 (a very themed collection), and transition well into the amazing crinkled jackets and trousers that pop up in the second half, a callback to one of his 2002 shows. It's difficult to get crinkled fabric looking amazing like that right without it looking cheap.

Another thing to note is the peculiar influence of Y-3 with some of the show's details, particularly with the bold coloured adidas style stripes and some of the sneaker like footwear (not that this is new on a yyph runway, but the bold patched colours on the footwear do feel rather sporty). Just something to note. Not sure if I like it or not.

>>10036403
Ultimately this show is rather predictable, but not really to a fault because I feel like the clothes are always so strong that we learn to accept the motions that each of yohji's shows move through.

Each season it really comes down to a question of "Which graphics/text is yohji going to put on his clothes this season" and seeing what each collection's full-look prints are going to be. We will always have our wide suits, our beautifully billowing trousers and our brilliantly quirky styling, and there's not much more you can ask for really. Some of the skinny tailoring that yohji has been doing recently however is fantastic, and really mixes things up (I was dying for a pair of those slim brown pinstriped patched trousers from ss15).

With that in mind the spooky skeleton prints are wicked and have that classic sense of humour that yohji always has. The aggressively painted coloured suits I enjoy quite a bit more than the tapestry suits this season, which seemed a little unmemorable (especially when compared to his 18th century dandy style tapestry from ss11), but I though that the velvet jewel toned suits from last season were some of the most beautiful designs yohji has ever produced. God damn luxury those suits are. Also feels like every season we get a trio of men in off white suits jammed into the middle, curious.

But yeah lovely show. Not as traditionally impeccable as the motto statement of fw15, or as exotic as the amazing ss15, or as fun and wild as the even more phenomenal fw14, but nice nonetheless.

Bump for wondeful insight on a fashion thread. Don't let this thread die. I've had enough of shitty threads about animes and is my shoe cool guise?????

RIP thread. Fuck you faggots. /fa/ is full of self centered assholes. Only caring about making yourselves better and everything that has nothing to do with fashion. Kill yourselves

>>10036911
can you please not be so horrible? it is very cruel

So anxious for the SLP show. Where can I stream it?

As for Raf, despite the show being shorter than expected, it was truly a great collection.

The first impression I had was how similar it was to the collection before it, with the puddling trousers, the long lab coats, the patched together knitted tanks, etc, but there is a clear progression occurring here.

f/w15 felt fairly joyous in nature, with models walking together in twos down the runway like a pair of close friends, their long sleeveless coats flapping behind them enthusiastically. The clothes were styled as both oversized and rather tight, making the attitude of the models and the collection feel carefree, not burdened by what others might think of their distressed coats and ill fitting sweaters and trousers. Not to mention the warm nostalgia offered by the rustic tweeds and the bright colours that you might find around your old childhood primary school. In shorts these models felt truly like youth, dressed in handmedowns without a care in the world.

This brings us to this season which has a noticeably more brooding tone. The lighting is dim and cold, and the models walk with face-shielding hoods, almost like a medieval cult. It seems like the youth from the previous season have grown older, moving rapidly towards young adulthood. The boys feel burdened (by age? responsibility?), with bags featuring large chains draping over their shoulders, their hoods giving them the appearance of bowed and sunken heads. No girls on the runway this time either, which on the last runway evoked imagery of younger children hanging out together in a co-ed environment, this season having the boys now segregated into pack, a male brotherhood.

>>10037081
But since these boys have grown older and larger, they've started to adopt their grandfathers' clothes, with a large element of elder menswear being present in these designs, with an aged colour palette and elements like plaid, tweed and wool (a lot of this was present in the last show as well).

The clothes themselves are pretty awesome, with my favorite element being the variations on the bottom half of the silhouette; the imposing billowing trousers, the sharp skinny cropped pants and the awesome wide shorts. Look 14 gives me some j.w. anderson vibes paired with the lengthened sleeves on the jacket. In fact quite a few looks here are playing with some gender concepts, something that isn't exactly new to Raf.

The perforating on the jackets is a cool idea, and this year's iteration on the lab coat is really neat, the half finished plaid pattern being quite eye catching (maybe not as eye-catching as the scribbled coats however). The cropped sweaters and shirts are conceptually interesting, especially with the low waisted pants, but I preferred the tanks from last season.

The zips are great as well, giving a welcome twist to the classic raf blazer. I'm also not too concerned about raf's constant use of stans, he used converse for many many years in the past, it's just his uniform. Also a great callback to the denim in fw04 with his denim here, similar silhouettes being evoked from those looks.

>>10037084
Overall this collection, while not quite as accessible as most recent work and certainly a tad avant garde, was very fascinating to look over and has continued what seems to be a new strong vision for the brand coming from the season before. I felt Raf started to completely lose it after 2006, and despite some great shows here and there (ss08, fw12, ss13) the brand's identity was absolutely in tatters. Ever since the sterling ruby collection however, Raf seems to be gaining some excitement again, producing conceptually interesting collections, and especially with the past two seasons, rediscovering what made the Raf Simons brand so great in the first place.

>>10029488

Givenchy was the best by far for me.

>>10037081
>it was truly a great collection.

>>10037334
What would your dad say if he saw you dress like this?

Mine would psychologically destroy my ass.

Tom Ford absolutely killed it this time.

Wish there were HD stills available though.

>>10037337
how about you actually argue with me faggot

>>10037346

basic bitches need not apply

>>10037339
>2015
>not being gay for jesus

>>10037348
why, the collection was worthless - i cant believe someone was willing to write as much as you did about a collection that can be evaluated in one word: trash.

its so utterly shit it isnt even worth discussing, probably one of his worst ever, which is really saying something given the shit hes been putting out since 09

>>10034621
>>10034632
I want the communism tshirt

>>10037358
pigfuck pls go

>>10035894
Hedi won't care and will put on the spookiest show of the year.

>>10037351
I dunno it's not bad but just feels average. Some of it seems kind of similar to SLP as well but without such skinny fits. Not really my thing I think, really looking forward to seeing Thom Browne though his shows are always interesting.

>>10037339
sorry ur dad is a culturally backwards pussy/idiot

>>10037440

shut up fag, by the sounds of it your dad was a pussy hippy faggot or not in the picture at all

>>10037442
XD did i hurt your feeling about your daddy pussy?

>le real man wouldnt wear no faggy shit like that

nice spook dumbo

>>10037444
>>10037444
>real man wouldnt wear no faggy shit like that

nailed it, glad we could come to agreement.

Came back home to this shit on a such a wonderful thread. Fuck /fa/. There has to be a real fashion discussion board that actually discusses PFW.

>>10036119
Are YOU kidding? Even Wikipedia says it's in France.

>>10034912
that nigga has the ambigram from angels and demons tattooed on his forearm

>>10037463
the luckiest you will get is a couple of comments on thefashionspot.com. stylezietgeist, probably what used the be the most educated forum in terms of seasonal collections in dead now. the internet is no place for fashion it seems.

>>10037334
Is this aimed for fuccboi christians or edgy fedoras?

>>10037334

Givenchy collection was straight from some mexican gang.

>>10034674
lol

>>10037430

Tom Ford was Saint Laurent for awhile so that association is probably justified.

Nobody does a sharper suit than TF right now

>>10037081
>>10037084
>>10037096
w2c those shoes? are those all white stans?

>>10034252
Damn, WANT.

>>10037925
Raf/adidas all white stans, pre distressed edition. Pretty much everywhere will stock them soon enough.

>>10038396
nice
shame about the pre-distressed part though, can't stand that shit

>>10029698
>>10029707
Valentino isnt even that expensive. The hell are you on about?

>>10032387
same old shit

SS is complete junk compared to FW. Always has been, always will be

>>10038560
this, valentino isn't as overpriced as much as saint laurent and balmain are.

also wooyoungmi incoming.

http://www.balmainlive.com/
live in 20min

>>10032333
What is this anyway? Balding malnourished gaunt faced Russian krokodil addict-core?

I'm just a lurker, but I feel like I'm seeing a lot of emperor dick in all this........

>>10034329
Quite like this actually. ...don't hit me..........

>>10038738
>>10038707
>>10038703
the black/white dichotomy is cool but the white is so bright i can barely see any texture or anything in the actual clothes

i feel like she took a queue from rick.

>mfw everyone sleeping on armani

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPB_YUE51tQ

embarassing

>>10038790
I'd sleep on it too, it looks boring.

>>10038804

*yawn*

>>10038788
madame woo and katie chung are the best

seriously thoguh giorgio has like six clothing lines, wouldn't that sap him of any creativity anyways? most designers have at most 3 lines.

>>10038821
i love how asian designers do some things like suits, it gives it a more cool relaxing touch to the fits.

>>10038824

He'll only work on Girogio Armani. He might sit in occasionally on some idea boards but each line will have its own designer/designers.
There is a documentary on Paul Smith that makes me think that is how it'll work. The lower lines just being money churners.

http://nowfashion.com/balmain-menswear-spring-summer-2016-paris-14898

balmain

>>10038852
shit, i forgot about distributing them to other people, i usually think you'd want to head your own diffusion and separate lines to assure quality control.

>>10038856
Balmain women's haute couture killing it atm

>>10038879
digginng those boots on the menswear. and the earth tones give some of the menswear a different vibe but with that flair balmain usually has.

http://hermes.com/defile
8pm paris

based on pics did not pick up that the raf show was drawing from that leckey film @ all...

hermes was good... i am not a fan of the prints they used but overall the palettes were really nice and the knitwear and jackets were beautiful

>>10038879

Balmain hasn't produced couture since de la Renta worked there.

>>10038865

You can't. Break it down this way.

Seasons:
-Resort
-Spring
-Pre-fall
-Fall

Occasionally with Pre-spring and Holiday deliveries. So 4-6 deliveries.

Then consider:

-Armani Prive (2 collections)
-Giorgio Armani
-Armani Collezioni
-Emporio Armani
-Armani Exchange

There's no way for one man to check every seam, every dart, every buttonhole. If you want to grow a business of that size, you need help, you need designers to report to you, to do the heavy lifting while you set the overall pace and tone.

>>10038784

In what way were you thinking? She and her daughter have been riffing on tailoring for ages, both with Wooyoungmi and Solid Homme. The product range has always been expansive and they've always pushed textile research as one of their signatures.

>>10036180
cant't wait

>>10036178
holy shit - what model is that?

>>10039618
i was just referring to that one piece, it reminds me of the rick bondage jacket.

>>10037447
why the fuck are you on a fashion forum

>>10039662

Except harnesses have been used for decades in various ways. You can even think of corsets going from underpinning to accessory as part of that movement. And this looks like a separate accessory to me, not like an integrated part of the jacket like with the restrained styles from Faun. Harness, suspenders, and belts are all of a similar mold and can be adapted quite easily to different looks and styles. I mean, there's obviously a precedent with Helmut, too, so I don't know why you didn't draw the line from there instead of Rick.

loved dries and thom but i'm a fanboy for both so0ooo

>>10039601
this gives me a sort of retro-european vibes, love it

>>10038407
there is a plain version as well

>>10035063
some of the trousers and suiting didn't seem all that bad, compared to last few years I was pretty disappointed in this though, hopefully it will look better once it hits the stores

>>10038784
Honestly this makes me think more about dries ss15, different take on it though

Harnesses are hardly anything unique to any of these though

>>10038856
I'm glad Rousteing is off that over the top '70's homage. I guess I see where he was going with it, but I've always preferred the sharper militaristic collections.

>the good
Marigela was surprisingly good
Haider for the new steps he is taking from his stagnant past few seasons
Rick killed the waist down game with those boots and cropped pants
Boris progressing slowly from the last 2 season ideas but some impressive work on the sillouettes, footwear, fabric treatment
White Mountaineering had some excellent styling on the runway and the jackets look great - it will be interesting to see how the adidas component will affect the quality as the WM outerwear is usually goat in regards to construction and textiles
Julius doing berber tribe clothing excites me as I'm a bit weary of the cyber goth aesthetic that is usually present. Looks to be the stuff you really need to try on as the drapes look pretty intricate and might look bad on certain people

>the bad
Dries was objectively shit
Dior boring as usual
Raf Simons... I liked the idea of his collection, and I liked the fact that fuccbois will struggle to incorporate this into their waywt fits, but the outcome of his ideas and the construction looked lazy as shit
Undercover collection is a stain on Jun's career

Keen for Mihara and Lanvin.

>>10034075
He didn't. He's currently doing the womens and the artisanal collection, plus some private client stuff. But the menswear is designed by a team that is inspired or directed by his work with the womens collections. The themes between them are pretty obvious when looking.

>>10038856
Actually loving this collection. The relaxed styling and scrunched pants/boots evoke Decarnin's later collections, but it's definitely got Rousteing's fresh approach. The intricate webbing patterns remind me of Helmut's famous aviator pants.

I kinda like these

>>10034154
>>10034333
>>10034500
This is really, really nice. I'd wear it with a contrasting shirt though.

...

PS: w2c driftwood?

>>10041067
please tell me where the undercover photoset is so i can see? i'm genuinely curious.

>>10034516
>>10034524
>>10034538
>>10034550
>>10034587
AND THIS... IS TO GO... EVEN FURTHER... BEYOND!!!

>>10041293
undercoverism.com

>>10041315
thanks, didn't notice the image set there at first.

>>10041067
undercover ss16 might not be anything new, but it's good that he's re-releasing some older archival pieces.
some of that stuff is really hard to find now and some cases expensive thanks to price gougers.

>50's biker
fuck yes.

or i should say greaser, anyways, love this jacket and these pants.

want so bad

>>10041345
Jun is mad greedy though, he knows he is sitting on a goldmine so all he has to do is tell someone to make him a lamp that looks like a burger or a soft toy that looks like a dragon or some shit and all of the late to the party uc bandwagoners will lap it up. Plus this stuff isnt releasing, it's like a mix tape version of clothing. Some things are better left in history

That said, I wish I could get that chewbacca tshirt to wear to the star wars opening night at the end of the year

>>10041376
personally i wouldn't mind it, I like those scab jeans myself.

>hot pink accents on the zippers.

Where can I watch/see slideshows of Rick, Julius, and Undercover?

my favorite collection this season, i love the 50's, especially rockabilly culture.

>>10041409
rick and julius are on nowfashion, and a few other sites.
undercover is on undercoverism ,and it's instagram.

>>10041415
loving this dada collection, but it feels like fw instead of ss

>>10041429
yeah, not sure why he chose to go with this for spring summer either, but still love it none the less.

>>10038741
Now that is a stage.

I havn't see nthe pieces so I can't speak to them, but this is a fantastic stage. most shows often lack any sort of real design (I know venue play a lot into limitations but still)

>that mirror
make the show look and feel enormous, like there's a whole other section back there.

>>10037358
babydick

>>10042394
i was also impressed by the setup for that show

i would guess that raf had a lot to do with the stage design

>>10041372
w2c jacket?

>>10042980
japan most likely, it would be unacceptable to sell this in america right now.

Really liked Julius' work
>>10034154
>>10034235
>>10034249

>>10042491
dior homme ain't Raf dude so i doubt he had a part.

>>10043051
pretty sure it was all kris.

>>10042491
Kris van Assche is creative director for Dior Homme, Simons has nothing to do with the menswear collections

gonna finish this thread,
>HBA shit is weak

HBA is so fucking tryhard
I just can't take the brand seriously at all

loved valentino and berluti

>>10043120
this is a cool coat but don't really like HBA's work.
What was your favorite collection so far?

>>10041376
>burger lamp
Damn don't remind me. Saw photos of the fuccboi lines. Jfc

HBA is completely atrocious

>>10043115
what the fuck is even going on here
I get pushing boundaries of wearable fashion but HBA didn't pull it off imo

>>10041411
Seems like dada is moving away from his more full on punkgothbiker vibe (at least thats the impression i got) to a greaser tribute

>>10043132
lmao trash
does anyone like HBA and can explain why you like them or your thoughts on this SS collection?

>>10043145
this
>>10041415

also, yeah, HBA is way weird but I always get curious as to what oliver has cooked up, i feel he has stepped it up with his designs a bit, because his first collections were mostly bigcartel prints.

>>10043159
Which designer's work do you like the best so far? Not a single piece I mean the runway collection as a whole. Personally really liked Julius'

>>10043165
I meant to quote that post as in I liked Christian Dada's collection the most, Julius was great as well

>>10043166
I'll check that out when I'm fully done with Julius'. I am using firstview but do you have a better site recommendation?

>>10043174
i use now fashion, it won't have the same showcases as firstview, but it works.

>>10043182
really like the real time feature of this site. looking forward to saint laurent in 23

>>10029488
>>10029511
>>10029629
>>10029693
What is with these faggy shoes?

>>10043212
>faggy
try again

>>10043225
They look awful. Almost all of the shoes in all of these pics are.

excited for tonights saint laurent show. It's probably gonna be pretty bad, last year was better, but I'm gonna be there and a friend of mine is running there aswell.

>>10029693
>>10043253
I actually like these ones

>>10043300
it's late!! looking forward for it too
awesome that'll you'll be there

>>10043388
It's the first big show I'll see, so I'm pretty hyped

>>10043225
go back to /b/ please

>>10043225
>>10043446
meant this dude >>10043212

>>10038798
vanilla diluted crap version of what verena schepperheyn has been doing

gender isn't a statement anymore

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