/fa/ - Fashion

Looks like the Ann D funnelled through Hedi Silmane vision is continuing this season for Ann Demeulemeester.

I'm not about to say "oh man ever since Ann left, the label has been trash" because the Ann D menswear label has been fucking crucified with some awful collections over the past five years (apart from one of her best ever collections with f/w13).

In that respect I'm enjoying these newer collections more because they have stripped down the ridiculous styling and drama that Ann D has gathered over the past 5 years and focused in on cleaner, more streamlined looks.

Streamlined seems to be the word that describes this period in the label's menswear the most actually. ss15 (a season I found fantastic) was an attempt at bringing out the fundamentals and 'essence' of Ann D and making it extremely accessible and gorgeous. Maybe not as interesting as the collection should have tried to be, but a pleasant season nonetheless.

With ss15 being a bit of a primer for things to come, the menswear has now taken those concepts of accessibility and simplicity and taken them to their logical conclusion.

fw15's best asset was its colour palette, with a careful selection of earthy hues balanced with the right amount of aggressive reds and oranges (and a drop of bright green). I thought the long coats were lovely as well. The collection's downfall was its awful, tacky use of leather (most of the fur was terrible as well, but at least conceptually interesting) and it's saint laurent levels of skinny tailoring and styling.