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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.779928 [View]

Every Ibanez I have uses a hex key. Fender on the other hand uses a slotted nut.

>> No.779054 [View]

It only looks off because nothing is moved in there yet. Once all the real computer equipment, file cabinets, furniture, etc. goes in you don't even notice braced anymore. I can actually agree that it doesn't look great in the renovation phase.

>> No.777216 [View]

There is absolutely no reason to take a guitar to the shop for a string change, even on a floyd. It's dead easy. Intonation, truss rod tweaks, action, etc. is only done once in a blue moon, mainly if you are changing string gauges. Contrary to the bullshit on the internet it take some pretty extreme screwing up to damage a neck.

>> No.777188 [View]
File: 153 KB, 1600x1200, desk.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
777188

I went with the floating concept and attached it to the wall with some pretty beefy braces.

>> No.542926 [View]

Rotary Hammer with a scaling blade. Was that under ceramic? Totally wrong choice for subfloor if so.

>> No.521542 [View]

I can't tell for sure in the photo, but it looks like the tub is a separate piece. I'm assuming it is not tiled like the rest of the room. If so you can tear out the pink tile and the wallboard under it and replace it with drywall. You'll have more time and labor in that than you will money if you can do the work yourself. Drywall is not that hard with a little research and practice. The existing tile floor can be tiled over with something else. That too should be relatively inexpensive for no larger an area than you have, especially if you can pull off the labor yourself as well. Most of the expense of ceramic is in the labor, not materials. You will need a new toilet, countertop, sink and faucet to complete a basic renovation. They don't have to be expensive but they should look good an be decent quality. I can't tell much about the shower without seeing it.

Leave the carpet until you are sure you can afford to refinish the hardwood. You may get lucky and not have to refinish, depending on what condition it was in when the carpet was put down, but you don't know until you pull it all up.

>> No.519566 [View]

Number one rule of cats.
No matter how complex, awesome or expensive you make or purchase a toy for a cat, the cat will always spend far more time playing with the plastic grocery bag you left in the corner.

>> No.515020 [View]

What brand guitar is it? There is a good chance they are just stock pickups. The previous owner may have generally only used the neck position and only upgraded what he used.

>> No.514537 [View]

Looks like a Bill Lawrence to me too. Real Bill and Becky pups usually have no branding on them. Look at Wilde Pickups for the real Bill and Becky stuff. Is the switch a Rotary selector? You turn it instead of flipping the switch? I haven't dealt with one of those for quite some time.

>> No.509640 [View]

Defy has a couple of product especially formulated for this. Then have a cleaner and a stain/sealer designed to be safe for the aquatic life you may be dripping it into.

>> No.509495 [View]

It looks like Minwax does make a conditioner for waterbased stains. I have no experience using it though.

>> No.509493 [View]

Yep the dark spots are uneven absorption. Birch is one of those woods that does not take stain evenly. A prestain conditioner is basically a clear oil that you apply before stain. It fills up the pores of the wood so when you apply the stain it doesn't penetrate as far into the thirstier areas of wood. Basically you'll get a more even result. Conditioners are meant for soft woods like this that stain blotchy. I'm not sure they make a conditioner for waterbased stains though. I've only ever seen it for oil. The issue with waterborne stains is how fast they dry. They act more like thin paint than a stain.

>> No.509484 [View]

Also, what are you wiping it off with? If you are talking about the particles that look white in the photo that can be the rag you are wiping it with. What kind of stain are you using?

>> No.509482 [View]

Birch is a pain to stain evenly. Sand it and wipe it down with a hot thinner like acetone to leach any resin or oil out of the surface. Let it dry. Use a prestain conditioner on it. Let it soak in for 15 minutes and wipe off the excess. Then apply stain and let stand for about 15 minutes. Wipe off the excess. Give it overnight to dry. If that doesn't do the trick you may want to consider water based stains. Then set more of the color on the surface instead of down in the wood like oil stains. They aren't as easy to work with but can get better results in some cases.

>> No.508748 [View]

Look at USFloors Coretec. It's a luxury vinyl tile or plank that has a cork back, plasticized composite core and commercial grade vinyl top. It clicks together like laminate so it's easier to install yourself if that is your goal. It generally prices no more than an upper grade of sheet vinyl, but you get a lot tougher product. It's also completely waterproof. If you flood the kitchen somehow you can pull this stuff out, let it dry and put it back in. Not that anyone is actually going to do that.

>> No.507521 [View]

Didn't you pressure test the plumbing before installing the finished surface? What kind of connections did you use? Copper, sharkgrips, pex, etc.? Copper, properly soldered should not develop leaks easily. Push on or crimp on fittings have to be done perfectly to seal though. I can't tell for sure in the photo, but it looks like you have a hot and cold knob, not a single lever valve. That means it could be leaking anywhere on the other side of those two valves. If you have a solid body assembly then it is likely either at the part that comes out to the shower head or the hand shower.

>> No.507520 [DELETED]  [View]

Didn't you pressure test the plumbing before installing the finished surface? What kind of connections did you use? Copper, sharkgrips, pex, etc.? Copper, properly soldered should not develop leaks easily. Push on or crimp on fitting have to be done perfectly to seal though. I can tell for sure in the photo, but it looks like you have a hold and cold knob, not a single lever valve. That means it could be leaking anywhere on the other side of those two valves. If you have a solid body assembly then it is likely either at the part that comes out to the shower head or the hand shower.

>> No.507268 [View]

That's called glazing compound. You can buy it at box stores and most paint stores. You need new compound, I recommend UGL Glazol, and a glazing tool. You may also need a pack of points if any are missing. Points are small metal pieced that embed in the wood to lock the glass pane into place. Then you cover it will a new bead of glazing to seal up the install.

>> No.507067 [View]

Sand it, clean it and apply a coat of Zinsser BIN primer. This is a shellac primer. It sticks to almost anything. Topcoat with just about anything you want. Acrylic is okay but it just doesn't wear that great on a surface that is actually getting a lot of use. Some Rustoleum oil based enamel will wear better and cure faster as well. Latex dries fast but cures slow.

>> No.507060 [View]

Silicone will work but the next time this needs to come out it will be a pain peeling it all apart. Plumbers putty give a good easy to work with seal that is easier to clean up as well.

>> No.507056 [View]

We sell and install a lot of Warm Tiles floor heat. We use the cable systems instead of mats. You screw or tape down track and lace the cable into. This way you can adjust your spacing and layout at will to accommodate your size and heating needs. You still need to wire it into the panel though. Once the cable is down we pour about 3/8" of self leveling compound over it and are ready for tile or membrane by the next day.

>> No.505783 [View]

Just use Ditra XL instead of normal Ditra. It's taller and specifically designed to help level the tile out closer to the height of 3/4" hardwood flooring. By the time you factor in two layers of thinset, the Ditra and a standard 3/8" tile you should be close to the hardwood level. Speaking of hardwood, make sure you place something like roofing felt or proper hardwood underlayement to prevent it from squeaking when the wooden surfaces rub together. Rosin paper is also used a lot but not recommended.

>> No.505548 [View]

What is the rest of the floor going to be? Is this ceramic tile on the hearth? Never set tile directly to a wooden substrate without an uncoupling membrane. I use a lot of Schluter Ditra. Many flooring stores will carry it as will Lowes and Home Depot. (assuming you are in the US) You thinset the ditra to the subfloor with a Modified thinset like Mapei Ultraflex 2. Then set your tile on top of it with an Unmodified thinset like Mapei Kerabond. Schluter also makes various metal transition strips that install by thinsetting them into place under the edge of the tile. They make this square ones to but carpet to or various other ones to reduce directly to the floor and they come in many finishes. If you are doing something like wood, then a wooden T-mold or reducer would likely work better.

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