/diy/ - Do It Yourself

My bro did a review on the Aoyue 937+

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGQYbLFjAx8


I use it all the time and it's fantastic for everything from splicing wires to soldering SMD PLCC packages.

Instead of having the wires going out from the corners of the bed, why not have them go inwards towards the centre? Use two per corner in an X shape for eight total wires.

Fuck. At least use the real stuff.

Looks like a 500W tube to me. You can get them at any hardware store or electrical wholesaler etc.

They are used in those halogen workshop lights too.

Also, when you do a search for something, you'll see a drop down box above the prices in the list of search results. Select "Price + Postage: Lowest First" for the lowest pricing.

Lulz at people all up in arms about Facebook et. al. mining personal information, but not actually stopping their own use of said social media.

Fucking wat.

I have one of those.

I don't think it will be efficient enough to run directly off a reasonably sized solar panel. However, using the panel to charge some batteries would be possible.

Good cheap multimeters?

Check out these links:

http://www.eevblog.com/2010/06/04/eevblog-91-50-multimeter-shootout/
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ide
al-uei-uni-t-part-1of2/
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ide
al-uei-uni-t-part-2of2/

As above, this is something better left to the professionals with insurance and proper training....


Pic related.

I modded a mouse once to prevent sweaty hands while playing vidya games.

It works well, but is a little noisy, but that's nothing a volume knob doesn't fix.

It'll probably be a salt water pool.

I wonder how they go with mildew etc?

In Australia we call them batten fittings, batten light holders, etc.

>>295056

Um, been in the game for 12 years so I've tried a few...
Blundstone, Steel Blue, Bata, Oliver, etc. The usual work boots you find around the place.

I import Original Swat boots (No one sells them here in Ausfag country).

I have the waterproof, composite toe ones and they are comfortable as. I use them for work so go through a pair a year, but no boot has lasted me longer than that.

Without group delay charts etc it's hard to say, but they all kinda suck. You are hitting the -3dB point too early for decent sub-bass extension.

Use lubricant (motor oil, WD-40, diesel, whatever).
If you can't get a 6.8mm drill, use the closest imperial (why the fuck do you yanks still use imperial anyway, it shits me to tears having to convert fractional inches to metric), or even a 7mm bit will do, you will only loose 0.1mm from either side of your thread.
Then just go in slow a few turns at a time.
Use the starter tap and go all the way until it's easy to turn. Don't bother with the other taps, they're for a blind hole so you can get the thread all the way down to the bottom of the hole.
TL;DR, Treat it like sex with a virgin.
Lubricate well, take it easy, and back out and go back in every so often.

It's from a 1995 model, so the tech isn't too old.

Also, front wheel drive, so no dorifto (well, not much anyway).


I have everything else worked out, it's all thermistors for temp sensing, push buttons for user input and dampers with potentiometers for position feedback for directing air, with a few relays for turning stuff on and off.
It's just this one part that I am having trouble with.

I don't really want to go wiring my own stuff if I don't have to, as I want to reuse the housing and plug from the stock air con computer to make it all plug and play.
I'll rig up a simple circuit and see what the current measurement tells me.
My only multimeter is a Fluke 1587, which only goes up to 440mA on the current range, but that should be ok.

I think it is most probably a photodiode.
I tried to trace the circuit in the climate control computer for this thing and after a voltage divider or something it went into a multiplexer (along with a few other misc signals), so no opamps before the microcontroller it seems.

I just need to find a way to track down a data sheet....

Also, the package has a tab on one side (on the other side in the photo), is this the anode or cathode?

Ok /d/ykes, let's see if you can work this one out...

I'm currently designing my own controller for the climate control in my AE101 Toyota Corolla Levin.
There is this little sensor (pictured) on the dash that Toyota call a 'Solar Sensor' obviously to sense the heat load on the car from the sun.

I need to get the specs for this thing....

Here is what I know:

07 5b3 is printed on the side
when measuring resistance, it ranges from 380 ohms to 560 ohms from dark to light under a 1 watt LED torch.
If I swap the leads I get a negative resistance reading

If I measure voltage, I get 0mV in the dark, to 560mV under the LED.


So, I think it is some sort of solar cell.
Can anyone shed some light on what this part actually is so I can get some specs? I have a few spares so I can run whatever tests are required.

Rebuilt numerous engines and cars from the ground up, saved thousands (that I then promptly spent in performance mods etc).

Electricianfag by trade, so everything is DIY for me.
4 years of crap pay during my apprenticeship now saves me bucket loads of money as I have the tools, know-how and connections to get anything done cheap.

feels_goodman.jpg

You can get covers that are heat rated that clip over the back of the light to prevent insulation and bugs etc contacting the fitting from behind.
They are common on 12v halogen downlights especially when the blown-in insulation is used, and in Australia it is actually legislation that they are used (after a few fires were caused by insulation covering the hot globes).
See if there is a cover that will suit your fitting, any decent lighting shop or electrical wholesaler will be able to tell you what the go is.

Don't just cover up the holes, for either an incandescent (regular) globe or a CFL, as they both get hot (the CFL will fail prematurely in it's own heat).

Don't forget to 'back shield' the pipe.

Cover the open ends with tape and fill it all up with the shield gas to create an inert atmosphere inside. That way the welds will be clean and strong on it inside as well as the outside.

Ok, take that string, pin and pencil you used to draw all the circles and arcs, and stick a scalpel or xacto or whatever in place of the pencil.

Now, stick masking tape over the lines where you need to mask, extending about an inch over either side of the lines. Use lots of short pieces of tape to avoid wrinkles and stuff and rub them down with your fingers to remove any gaps where the pieces overlap (use the blue painters masking tape too, it's easier to remove).

Now use the blade to cut the masking tape perfectly along the lines in the same way you drew the lines to start with. Peel off your tape only where you want to actually paint and voila', you have perfect masked curves.


You're welcome.

There will always be an amount of sparking, but there shouldn't be much at all.

Brushes should be cheap (if they are replaceable) so I'd do them if the drill is more than a couple of years old in any case.