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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.429152 [View]

>>427173
I would build it just like that but sideways and have some really clear plexiglass shelves. Then you could actually store your fruits on an invisible set of shelves. Just push each of the fruits to the far side so the touch the visible shelves so people will actually wtf.
....I may have a new project for next weekend.

>> No.428921 [View]

>>428853
Now I have a good reason to pick up an old, cheap analog clock next I come across one.

>>428865
that looks completely dangerous except...
>>428871
in the dark it looks absolutely sweet.
It looks like some sci-fi planet exploding with a glowing blue core.

>> No.428180 [View]

I am watching this thread.
I hope you produce some win because this might be my next good (cheap) project.

>> No.428166 [View]

>>427324
I have seen insanely intricate HDD arduino, LED, Persistance of Vision of all types but I don't have the patience nor interest in that type of diy circuitry plus this was about $100 cheaper. It was just something for me to tinker with and get an interesting conversation piece.

>> No.427326 [View]

9) The clock movements runs on a AA but the fan motor normally runs on a 12v 3pin so... what do?!!?!
After some testing I did find out the min to get a decent spin rate was about 7.8v so I mounted a 9v battery clip mount to the back and spliced in a rocker switch so most of the time its just a clock. I didn't want it to spin at a deadly 7200rpm so it was also a bonus for it run with a lower voltage.

I would have taken pictures since I finished it but camera is now... somewhere in my house... maybe my next project will be to attach a beeper to all my gadgets so -when- I loose them, I can just click a button and they'll ping.

>> No.427324 [View]
File: 1.22 MB, 2853x2284, HDD spinning clock.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
427324

HDD clock (actually spins!)
~~~~~~~~
1) find a cool HDD that looks boss stylish

2) that black box is a Quartex high-torque clock movement (~$12 at like dozens of places online, if want to make, SHOP AROUND cuz some places are stupid shipping price). I got the longest and thinnest possible shaft (1 3/16" x 5/16").

3) Had plenty of spare computer fans so I gutted a 120mm fan for the motor. They're usually hollow through the middle because that's where the stabilizing shaft for the blade bracket goes. I had to take a few increasing size drill bits to it to widen the hole which is just a bit of plastic. Had to strip all the mounting plastic from the motor board so the board sits completely flush against the clock housing so it is as thin as possible to leave room for the platter and clock hands.

4) Used a spare couple plates of plexiglass cut to width and drilled some hole to screw them down into the mounting holes on the underside of the HDD so handy screw points then mark where the hole is in the middle on the plexiglass. Took it off and took a hole drill bit to make a nice circular hole through with the motor would stick.

5) Used that circular piece of plexiglass and glued it to the back of a platter and to that I glued the magnet ring that slides over the fan motor... you see where this is going?

6) Measured and mocked up and measure many time more with micro-millimetrical precision then drilled a hole in the center of the plexi in the middle of the platter so the magnet ring would sit perfectly since this magnet / motor system is very precisely engineered.

7) I got a flanged, unshielded ball bearing from www.vxb.com that I mounted in the just mentioned hole that would slide over the shaft giving it a firm, stable spin axis / orientation.

8) That read/write HDD head is on a shaft that screw down so I adjusted the height to fit perfectly on the platter so it could spin and not touch the platter.

to be continued...

>> No.427321 [View]

>>427318
Even better, Price Breakdown:
Bracket: $4
2x PS2 to USB adapters: $2 / ea
PS2 (if you have an old dead one): free in this case
a bit of super glue: < $1

Total: < $7

not including price of PS2 if you don't have one which if you don't have one to use the top of the case from or can't find like a friend with a dead one to spare or similar, I promise its basically pointless to try to buy one cuz no new retail (stopped making them last year so it is now a collectible and price rocketed to about $100) and any used are like > $40 if you want an old banger from a pawn shop so a bit of bad news but epic news if you happen to be in good coincidence for this project :)

>> No.427316 [View]

>>427310
I will warn you there are a few major concerns you will need to keep in mind which is why I did not do wireless.

!) wireless headset that only charges via plug, not battery replacement else it will be an obscene amount of extra work to make a battery replacement door / hatch
2) Delicacy: it will be more work and be very careful since it will be at least 2 major boards and usually connected via flimsily-soldered wires
3) Quality: I've never used a pair of wireless headphones worth my money less than $100. Anything cheaper doesn't last, only runs on batteries, interference, very limited Hz range = bad quality audio.
4) Make sure you know if it has any channel / tuning switches / knobs. you'll also need the power switch accessible
5) ensure size of the headphones into which you will be transplanting the new headphone guts is large enough

Don't let all this put you off. By all means, don't be frightened, they're just things to make sure you look into before you spend money, make a mistake (like I did in which I completely broke a brand new pair of Fatal1ty headphones thus killing $30 cuz I wasn't patient), and get put off and not do something super awesome.

>> No.427308 [View]

>>422059
Clean and pretty, kudos. Random junk box I guess.

>>422946
I would glue them to some sort of small flat surface like a bit of plexiglass and just have it as a funny desk model art thing. I got a good chuckle from it. Thanks.

>> No.427300 [View]
File: 1.23 MB, 3285x2116, PS2 to PC bay device.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
427300

PS2 to PC gaming bay device
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
first image is completely finished

1) started with a cheap, $4 plastic 5.25" bay to 3.5" hdd bracket. Chose this cuz I knew I would need to trim and sand it plus it was like $10 less than the metal one

2) Took the top off my PS2 which is useless anyhow so I have a sexy, topless, working PS2. Very VERY carefully cut out that front panel bit because it would be very hard and very expensive to find another PS2 in this good of condition. Success! I didn't break it.

3) After trimming to length and sanding those jaggedy edges to make that panel part totally flat on the back on the two ends and trimming and plentifully sanding the bracket, I readied them for attaching via hyper glue (special quick-set hobby cement).

4) Practiced aligning the front plate to the bracket by positioning the PS2 controller to USB adapters on the base of the bracket to the controller ports on the face plate then glued the all down, and did some touch-up sanding. I also took that SONY logo from the other end of the front of the PS2 and trimmed/sanded it and the face plate to fit it where it is.

5) I had to trim the outer casing of the PS2 controller adapter to the actual prongs would stick out through the face plate a bit so it would line up exactly as it does on an original console (as you can see in the first pic close up).

Those memory card slots have the original mechanism in them so the still push in and flip up as they do. I was going to put a pair of PS2 memory card to USB adapters in there but they were relatively expensive for such a cheap project and I would really only use them like once plus I only have like 3 PS2 game saves, none of which I could care less about so basically a useless waste of money. Posted this in DIY before once and someone recommended putting some USB ports in there so may do that.

>> No.427294 [View]
File: 851 KB, 1290x1075, Retro Headphones.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
427294

Retro Headphones
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1) started with old headphones and Fatal1ty gaming headset
2) gutted both very carefully; preserving the casing and useful bits of the retro set, carefully dissected Fatal1ty headset and took out all the wires, boards, and speakers and such
3)Spliced the mic jack from the Fatal1ty headset to an extension so I could have the mic jack in the opposite ear cup. Ran the wires through the over-the-head padding through the hollow passage where the metal frame runs through. Carefully super glued the original potentiometer to the top of the volume potentiometer in the in-line volume control case thing. Mounted the volume control knob through the ear cup where the original vol knob was. Awesome cuz can use original vol knob (pic 4: knob actually says level but there was a knob on both sides, the other said "VOL" which is the one I used).
4) used a couple 90 degree female-male 3.5mm adapter in the right ear cup and (with some sanding to widen the original knob hole [no that is not a hilarious euphemism]) stuck the adapter through to make a mic jack port so it still has the detachable mic ability and original Fatal1ty mic boom.
5) Viola! Retro epic headset! I did, with a lot of trial and error, stuff it with a well adjusted amount of foam because such large hollow ear cups were a bit... reverby so. But still, comfy and win.

also, unrelated, the music hardware place I got the small 3.5mm 90 degree adapters sent free candy with the product which was... strange but friendly.

>> No.413818 [View]

>>413806
Yes. There are plenty of classic controller to usb. Most of these are plug-and-play so it doesn't need any special software. When you plug them in, you can go into the emulator options and program the buttons to any button on your keyboard or any plugged in controller be it a classic controller via classic controller adapter or modern usb controllers made for PC.

>> No.413562 [View]

>>413537
That's a pretty good idea. I have a usb hub on my desk so I don't really need them but maybe when I move it to a future build. I'd have to work out the mechanics since those doors actually still have the original folding mechanism so they still work but I could figure something out. Maybe use my spare multi bracket and have audio in one and two usb in the other.

>> No.413522 [View]

>>413473
This is the one I have. There are PLENTY of them out there if you're interested. Just google or search the online shopping place of your choice for "wireless playstation 2 controller"
http://www.amazon.com/PS2-Wireless-Controller-Playstation-2/dp/B0038LE5UE

>> No.413379 [View]

also, no the memory card slots don't have anything connected to them. I know there are PS2 memory card to usb adapters and I contemplated using them but they are relatively expensive for this project and I have like 5 PS2 games of which I could not care less about their saves so it would have been a waste of money for me.

>> No.413378 [View]

>>413365
if you mean the PS2 slim, unless you feel like splicing the main board by figuring out what all of the bits do, then not really since the disk drive alone is... well the width of a disk so fitting the rest of the components is a bit of a stretch

>> No.413300 [View]
File: 2.53 MB, 2976x3968, 12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413300

...used a usb to usb motherboard header cable and mounted it to the bracket, plugged the two PS2 to usb adapters into it, installed the bracket, plugged it into the mobo, and viola!

Done. I have a nice wireless PS2 controller for a nice clean look. I've seen plenty of interesting and awesome front panels with all the gaming console ports but I haven't seen anything like this. Maybe this will inspire some of you /diy/ers maybe to make you own. I plan on doing this same thing with a Gamecube and NES that I have dead consoles of that I can spare.

Let me know what you think of it.

>> No.413296 [View]
File: 960 KB, 1190x1587, 10.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413296

I got two of these Playstation2 to USB adapters for $2.50 each. Then trimmed the outer housing where the controller fits into so the actual prongs in the adapter to stick out of the front of the face plate so the controller could slide all the way in. I placed these in the bracket to align the face plate to the bracket as I glued it so I could just glue the adapters to the base of the bracket.

>> No.413297 [View]
File: 885 KB, 1587x1190, 11.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413297

...so it looks just like the front of a PS2 and then...

>> No.413294 [View]
File: 856 KB, 1587x1190, 9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413294

I also cut out the SONY logo and fitted it here which give it a nice touch of flash.

I also sanded down any not quite perfectly matched sides to match smoothly.

>> No.413292 [View]
File: 854 KB, 1587x1190, 8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413292

After some trimming and quite a lot of sanding to the bracket and the face plate to give them both smooth surfaces to super glue too.

>> No.413291 [View]
File: 901 KB, 1587x1190, 6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413291

This is when I started the nerve-racking process of cutting away the face plate because I knew I only had one of these and it would be very expensive to find another one in this condition if I broke it.

I'm saving that top part with the PS2 logo for another project I thought of while I was doing this one so I don't waste it.

>> No.413290 [View]
File: 921 KB, 1587x1190, 5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413290

>> No.413283 [View]
File: 828 KB, 1587x1190, 4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
413283

I did not end up using this since it didn't really look good to me but I'll keep it around for some future project.

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