/diy/ - Do It Yourself

It's an expansion tank used in boiler systems. When the water gets hot it expands slightly so you put these things in so it has somewhere to go. Otherwise the pressure relief valve would constantly be blowing.

Every guitarist should have a soldering iron and multimeter. suck it up and buy one.

He's a phoney drama queen. I live in toronto and heard plenty of stories about this jackass.

>>193921
The compressor does not need to be a direct replacement. As long as the pump/ motor have similar values and uses R-22 gas

>Old shitty appliances with dirty, rusty appliances
Rusty burners, not appliances

continued>>193937
You only need a 3" x 4" opening to provide enough oxygen for a 40000 btu appliance.
In the complete combustion of a hydrocarbon wether it's propane, butane or methane THERE IS NO FUCKING MONOXIDE. Complete combustion occurs when there is enough primary air(oxygen) in the fuel-air mixture to completely burn the fuel. This results in a blue flame which gives maximum heat,

Propane
C3H8 + 11x O2 + spark------> 3 x CO2 , 8 xH20 + heat

This is basic common fucking sense that anyone with a grade 10 education should understand. You don't need to be a gas fitter (which I am) to understand this.

The reason why people die from monoxide poisoning is twofold:
1.) Old shitty appliances with dirty, rusty appliances with insufficient oxygen aren't burning blue flames but sputtery yellow ones.
and
2.) A chimney blockage or venter motor failure causing the products of incomplete combustion to stay inside the living space.
OR
crack in the heat exchanger of a forced air furnace allowing CO to get into the ventilations system. These are all equipment failures in "out of sight-out of mind" appliances.

As I said before just check the goddamn flame, is it blue? Then you're fine. Keep a 1 inch cracked window nearby so the stove has oxygen If you insist on not believing a word of what I say, which 10 minutes on google will confirm, then get a monoxide detector ( which you should have anyway) or wire a monoxide safety switch in series with the gas valve. If the sensor goes off it shuts the gas off and you cant get sick. Plumbing suppliers sell them,

I await your rebuttal, imbecile.

Copper foil shielding is a good service for people.

Did the unit work better at some point in the past?
Has the evaporator coil been cleaned properly?
If you set it to 80 (lets say), does the unit shut off before reaching that temperature?

>>192931
lrn2metallurgy

What you need is to figure out an amp you're interested in basing your design off of. For the Power and Output transformers I recommend Hammond. They are affordable as long as you live in North america. Also don't cheap out use a Choke instead of that stupid ceramic resistor. Hammond makes those too

Find out how deep you want the soil to go before the roof of your shelter starts. Find out how many cubic feet of soil you'll have.

Figure out how much a cubic foot of saturated soil weighs.

Do some math and add 20%; that's how strong it needs to be.

>>191416
HVAC apprentice here. I know that when calculating pressure coefficients for gas lines a 90 is a 90 whether the pipe has been bent or had a fitting attached.

I don't know about the pipe but as for the ductwork; I don't think it matters.
I know for a fact that the one with the 45o will be about a hundred times easier to install though. I have poorly illustrated an example of what I commonly see in DIY ducts that is absolute shit and should be avoided at all costs; never ever put a circular branch line into a blocked end on a trunk line, ALL of the air will try to go through it meaning little to none will go through your other branches.

Bakor's "Blueskin" is the superior, DIY and idiot proof method of waterproofing a foundation, pool, roof or in your case shelter.

If anybody intends to troubleshoot electronics and doesnt slap together one of these, i am disappoint. Use this, a light will come on when there's a short in whatever machine you plug into it. Yes, it's that easy.

http://antiqueradio.org/dimbulb.htm

>>191693
Gas fitter here. This guy's full of shit, propane powered heaters on construction sites are nothing more than a burner with no exhaust or anything.

If you're burning a blue flame you wont get co poisoning.
Complete combustion of natural gas or propane only gives off co2 and water vapour. Don't believe me? Wire a CO detector in series with the gas valve. If it goes off it'll shut the off your gas. Just make sure what type of flame proving/voltage your stove uses; millivolt or 24V.

That said, this is till a dumb idea, they make propane/Nat-gas space heaters with proper heat dissipation surfaces for cheap. Lava rocks might work though.

>>188051
It looks ok.

I think the schematic for the PAIA unit is on the website. The kits are overpriced, but their designs are good. You can build it yourself. If ALL you want is to MIDIfy your Korg, then fuck it, but this is a good unit that will come in handy later.

>>187673
Not really. Most equipment built during that period had +/-10 or even 20 % variation in parts values. You probably shouldn't use electrolytic caps in anything but filters anyway IMHO.

>>188003
derp
I forgot about the phase inverter. The switch could very well be a Class A type of thing.

Just use flux core solder, don't worry about that silver content audiophile crap. It's a bunch of bullshit. The wires should be braided, at least 18 g. Try getting a roll of nice teflon wire. It's very nice to work with and wont melt.

I must ask, is your electronics compartment shielded with copper foil? If not, do it.

>>187931
You're better off putting in CV. The control voltage will adjust the VCO which is what the ribbons and keys do already. A midi-CV adapter is an essential tool for any synth operator.

>>187510
Nah, it's not a shoop. I'm just confused as all hell as to what it's for. What's over your head, exactly? I'll help you out.

Are you using tubes or opamps, OP?

>>187421
Control Voltage. Analog control system so you can make a modular setup like the earlier pic. Make that be your first DIY project then. A MIDI/CV interface, you can use an arduino for that.

Sup /diy/kes,
I'm interested in putting together a simple dummy load like the one in the pic, so I can test out cranked high wattage tube amps without blowing my ears out. The only issue is heat dissipation, and I was thinking about using oil from an old junked refrigerator compressor. Would that work well?