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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.1706220 [View]
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1706220

>>1704106

>> No.1706209 [View]

>>1706161
That’s what those little + things are for. You can hang it off a small nail or screw.

>> No.1706084 [View]

>>1706080
I don’t think cobalt is even worth it in hand drills. Some people say you need them for drilling stainless, but that doesn’t happen too often for weekend warriors. If you can’t make it through metal with good HSS bits, you will destroy expensive cobalt bits real quick in a cordless drill-driver.

I want to get me some left handed cobalt bits for removing busted bolts and/or taps because I’m a dumbass.

>> No.1706073 [View]
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>>1706069
Any of the big power tool brands make nice bits. Ryobi bits are kinda cheap so you’re probably better off spending the extra $10 on Bosch-DeWalt-Milwaukee-Makita.

I like the DeWalt drill bits a lot for wood. Plus you can always find big DeWalt sets on sale and their driver bits aren’t bad.

I think I prefer the Milwaukee Shockwave driver bits though, they’re a little pricey but work well. Love that small set with the couple drill bits and found it on sale at HD for like $10.

>> No.1706071 [View]

>>1706065
This is what I had to do. I never really use mine so one day I tried to turn it on and that bitch was rusted and seized.

Took it off to get a look, ended up soaking it in PB and getting a socket on there. Mine was a hex nut, maybe like 14mm though, so it was was able to actually give it some torque and crack it free.

>> No.1706066 [View]

>>1706062
Lifetime warranty on both, but Home Depot has better hours and you don’t have to drive to the hood to replace it.

The Husky looks a little nicer, you can tell there’s a couple extra manufacturing steps. Husky 22oz is $23, Pitt is $12. Although the hammers and pry bars are like the HF breaker bars where other brands mark them up quite a bit for what you’re getting.

Wait and see, there might be something that pops up and you learn why it was half the price of the Home Depot model. Cutting out a couple quality control steps can save quite a bit of money over the thousands and thousands of hammers made in that batch.

>> No.1706060 [View]
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>>1706051
Well... you only get 4x D cells for the price of 18x AAs.

I get the cheap ass yellow ones for free when they have coupons, they’re good for remote controls and stuff that isn’t demanding. I don’t think I have ever really used the orange ones, got this 9V pack on standby for something. If these blue ones are really as good as regular Duracells, I’ll be straight for the $5 price tag.

I have so many fucking batteries and most of my main battery powered devices are lithium rechargeable anyway.

>> No.1706026 [View]
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>>1705665
Parking lot sales only used to be once or twice a year, now they seem to have them every 2-3 years. And every weekend they will have a sale from Fri-Sun, plus all the other coupons in their flyers and monthly emails. Pretty much every holiday like Labor Day and President’s Day will have a 25% off coupon on that Monday.

>> No.1706022 [View]
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1706022

>>1705955
>>1706017
If you want a 3/8” impact socket set, keep an eye on pic related. I ended up catching a Black Friday sale where it went down to $55 and it’s so nice for that money. Even at close to $100, it’s a good set. Tekton and Sunex have decent prices on socket sets too, but the GW set has some nice little touches.

>> No.1706017 [View]

>>1706009
>have to be fully charged
That’s the biggest difference with lithium though. You can toss a couple batteries in the back of the truck and not touch them for 3 months and they will still have 85% charge left when you need to use them.

>>1705955
Meh, I’m not sure how much of a difference the socket material will make a difference. There is probably something with the material and mass, I know they sell these special crank bolt sockets that have a ton of steel in them so they actually hit harder with the extra mass. I believe it’s also about the heat treating of the metal. Regular chrome sockets for hand tools are typically harder metal but this makes them more brittle, which is why you don’t want to use them on impact wrenches. Impact sockets are softer metal but often thicker material to make up for it.

1/4” hex and 1/4”-3/8” square impacts should work fine with chrome sockets, but I wouldn’t ever guarantee it. I got a set of 3/8” impact sockets when I got that powerful brushless 1/4” hex driver after seeing it chew into the shanks of cheap adapter bits. I bet regular chrome u-joints would get torn up by a 3/8” impact wrench with some power, I know the cheap black colored u-joints always have terrible reviews on impacts.

>> No.1706011 [View]

>>1705942
Mexi muffler shop might weld it up for you for a couple Jeffersons if you catch them on a slow day.

>> No.1705921 [View]

>>1705701
I don’t think Conker was a super popular game when it first came out. But they sold enough to make a #2 and that one was pretty fun too.

I wonder if I can find that on an emulator or something. I had all those N64 games but then I gave all of the good ones to my poor friend who only had N64 while the rest of us had Xbox and PS2+.

>> No.1705904 [View]

>>1705898
I mentioned this before. Even on lower speed settings, the spring and anvil-hammer are too strong on some of these newest 18V 1/4” impact drivers for medium-small screws. My Ridgid Gen5x is rated at like 175ft-lbs and will remove lugnuts, ans the newest Octane is rated at 200ft-lbs, but at least that one has some extra settings to try and prevent you from totally fucking every PH2 screw.

That’s why I shill for the 12v tools. I think the new sub-compact 18v tools like the DeWalt Atomic might be a good option for people like you if you don’t want a second battery platform.

>> No.1705876 [View]

>>1705875
+1

Hilti costs 40x as much. Are you honestly going to tell me that the Hilti will last 40x as long?

>> No.1705852 [View]

>>1705798
That sounds like a cunt and a half. A pound a year? Fuck it.

>> No.1705850 [View]

>>1705755
Just remember when you start putting adapters and extensions on impact wrenches, you’re going to lose torque real fast. So if you need power out of it, run a straight 3/8” drive socket if possible. That’s just the nature of impact tools.

>> No.1705812 [View]

>>1705705
>sent my Hitachi drill in for warranty service
>get drill back and a couple weeks later and shortly after that I come down with the clap and pink eye
>turns out Hitachi services all of their products on the same line and never sterilized his screwdriver after working on OP’s dildo

>> No.1705668 [View]

>>1705661
Is Ozito a store brand for Bunnings?

What about Black & Decker, you got those down under? Seems like that would be the US comparison, but we can get Ryobi for so cheap that it’s not even worth getting anything cheaper if you’re actually going to use the tools.

Ryobi is sweet though because of the huge lineup and their cheap stuff is close to better B&D in price and quality, and their expensive stuff almost like mid-level Milwaukee or Makita.

Also... Makita should totally put out a cheaper homeowner brand like DeWalt’s Porter Cable or Milwaukee’s Ryobi.

>> No.1705650 [View]
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1705650

>>1705570
>>1705596
Look up “Hobie Mirage”

Hobie is a kayak company, they make like the best fishing kayaks you can get and use a pedal drive just like that with two flippers instead of a prop.

>> No.1705645 [View]

>>1705600
Goldeneye?

Dank. See if you can find a copy of Conker’s Bad Fur Day. Best N64 game ever, but 007 is up there.

Goddamn hipster faggot.

>> No.1705644 [View]

>>1700503
It’s 2019, you can go cordless for more than that. Brushless + big battery packs finally made it worth getting a 7-1/4” cordless saw.

>>1705425
Meh, it’s better than Drillmaster. But you’re paying sale prices on mid-level DeWalt tools but getting tools on par with base level DeWalt but without the warranty and support and peace of mind you get with a decent brand.

I was starting to think Bauer was looking like a pretty good choice for homeowner tools because it’s not a big deal if you burn up a $50 drill, but then started looking at Ryobi and realized the prices are almost the same, you can get more for the money with Ryobi sales, and Ryobi’s lineup is 10x better with some better brushless tools if you want a cheap leaf blower and a good brushless hammer drill on the same battery platform. Also Ryobi has a warranty that is 12x as long and you might be able to repair a Ryobi after that while the HF tool is a brick outside of warranty because you won’t find schematics and part numbers to order replacements on the Bauer or Hercules.

>>1705430
I saw that. Ryobi is the based DIY brand for people who don’t need Milwaukee or other contractor grade stuff.

>>1705620
Is it a 3/8”?

Might not be the greatest for lug nuts, but could speed up a tire change if your lug nuts are properly torqued. Also 4.0 or 6.0Ah battery might give it that little extra it needs for lugs.

>> No.1705642 [View]

>>1705639
They’re that bad?

They aren’t exactly cheap, and they generally have good reviews (although I’m not sure if I trust the ratings on HF’s website).

I guess you always have to remember what HF and China are about... they don’t give a shit about their brand image and they’re all about saving a couple cents here and there, so even when you think a HF product is decent quality, you will eventually find out where they saved a couple shekels with enough use over time.

>> No.1705597 [View]
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1705597

>>1705508
For DIYers, a good 12V drill + driver set rather than a cheaper 18V set. Hella useful around the house.

>> No.1705596 [View]

>>1705570
Is that for a pedal kayak?

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