/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>714310
If you only need living quarters for 1 or 2 people at most then a single container might be a good deal for you, you're only getting between 150-360 square foot floor plan.

like >>714150 said, the floors are treated with toxic pesticides so at a bare minimum you might want to install floating laminate floors with a plastic vapor barrier. The bare steel walls won't provide much insulation, it would be hot during summer, cold in the winter and there would be tons of moisture. The door is on one end, so unless you plan on welding it shut and installing a door on the side of it you're going to end up with a floor plan that matches the feeling of living on a bus.

Addressing several of the posts on cost. I agree with >>714547 and >>714057 because if you want to live in anything that looks half way normal and in any form of comfort you are going to want to glue (Liquid Nails) in a frame of 2x4's 16" O.C. install electrical, plumbing, insulation and ventilation and some sort of moisture resistant wall board. If you don't want an outhouse type bathroom your going to have to raise the floor of the bathroom to have space to run plumbing for the toilet, as well as the shower or bathtub, which also means your bathroom will be the shortest room in the place with a step or stairs going up to it. You might also want to install some sort of siding unless you are cool with the steel aesthetics and a slanted roof or water will pool on the roof and eventually rust holes into it, which means more framing. I've contacted Pacific Outback Steel and requested info on a small floor plan to see how much something with a floor plan the size of shipping container might run. I'll post again when they get back to me.

>>714281
>Why? Is woodworking another thing that's dumb to attempt yourself?

Nope, just trying to hit the $20 price point.

>>714168
it's just a space heater oriented downwards with protective layers on the back and sides so that any surface mounted to the table or facing the table surface stay cool. The ones I've seen use either ceramic or nichrome wire heating elements and a thermostat as well as some other safety equipment.

I'm going to pray you already have the table. I hate walmart but so far they have the best price I can find for a space heater that might suit your needs. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pelonis-Fan-Forced-Heater-with-Thermostat/21804031

I'm never going to understand the desire to live in a shipping container. My wife and I have purchased property and we went with a build it yourself kit from pacific outback steel buildings to build us a very nice 50'x200'x40' building, spray foam insulation was a bit pricey but well worth it. The price was just shy of 25k with us doing all the work as well as a friend loaning us his back hoe and a crane before we insulated it. The cheapest 40' cargo container we've found was $2500 to get the same square footage out of a cargo containers would have cost us over 400k to and that would have only been 8'6" tall. Contact a local steel building company in your state. They generally can deliver all of the supplies pre-cut and ready to be assembled to your site. The friend who loaned me the back hoe and crane said it was probably illegal for us to operate the crane ourselves and the truth of it is we could have done it all with the back hoe if pressed, but the crane was convenient even though it was a pain in the ass learning how to use it.

I dunno what price range your thinking of or the temp range needed op but when you said you need to heat a surface I immediatly though of an underfloor heating element.
Check the link to see if something like this might work for you.
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Under-Floor-Heating/N-5yc1vZapteZ12l2?NCNI-5

The largest container of mayonnaise I have seen is a 30 lb box. We usually get 1 box delivered every month from sysco http://www.sysco.com/ which I think you have to have an account with them, but who knows, they might be willing to sell 900 lbs of mayo to you, maybe there's a cash & carry https://www.smartfoodservice.com/ near you. I don't know if either one of those options is available to you. If not, look up restaurant supply stores in your area or contact a local privately owned restaurant and see if they are willing to let you buy from sysco or who ever their primary supplier is through them. As far as storage goes you need 30 cases of mayo, basically a pallet. Wrap that shit in some heavy plastic on the pallet, store it in a small room or closet with at least a small window type ac in the wall/window/door, cover any windows with 3 layers of heavy cloth or just a bed comforter, set the ac to it's lowest temp and the fan to it's highest speed. Personally I think you've done the math wrong on your recipe. Modern mayo is generally shelf stable, generally, not for long periods of time though, and not in high heat situations. but once you expose it to air it's a whole different story.
You should answer the question though. What do you need with 900 lbs of mayo?

>>713372
>409 kg
No it would not be easier to store 901.691 lb.

maybe make an ebay account to contact this guy and see if he'll take them off your hands for $40 plus shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-NEAX-2000-IPS-IVS-PZ-PW121-MPS2605-MURATA-AC-POWER-SUPPLY-PWR-CNT-CA-CABLE-/181304007589

it's a power supply for a phone system, the type you find in large offices with multiple internal lines.

If you can make sure it works you can make about 150 ish on ebay, I'm not trying to judge, but I believe you have no idea what it's for or if it's working properly, so I'd put it on ebay for $20 bucks each and enjoy your $40 dollar windfall.

buy chroma key green fabric, several 10'x12' panels are avaiable for $90ish on ebay, I'm sure if you're willing to do some research you will find it cheaper. any flaws you have in the walls will show up in your green screen efforts, you need a completely smooth backdrop to produce the green screen effect.

Good luck with your new studio.

carefully remove the rest of the screws and the speaker, then get a small drill bit smaller then the original screw/bolt used, drill the center of the screw/bolt, repeat this with a slightly larger drill bit, repeat this process until your at a diameter of the core of the bolt/screw used to hold the speaker in place, all you'll have left is the threads still inside the hole then use a tap that is the same thread count and smaller then the current tapped hole, retap once you are into the threads a bit you might be able to unscrew or shatter them out of the hole vacuum up your mess when it comes to the tapping part, do that by hand, don't use powertools, becarefull to center you initial drilling, if you can grind a slot into the top of the remaining screw you might be able to use a standard screw driver to remove it but it doesn't look like you can. good luck op!

carefully remove the rest of the screws and the speaker, then get a small drill bit smaller then the original screw/bolt used, drill the center of the screw/bolt, repeat this with a slightly larger drill bit, repeat this process until your at a diameter of the core of the bolt/screw used to hold the speaker in place, all you'll have left is the threads still inside the hole then use a tap that is the same thread count and smaller then the current tapped hole, retap once you are into the threads a bit you might be able to unscrew or shatter them out of the hole vacuum up your mess when it comes to the tapping part, do that by hand, don't use powertools, becarefull to center you initial drilling, if you can grind a slot into the top of the remaining screw you might be able to use a standard screw driver to remove it. good luck op!

precision cake slicing!

have you tried bondo. I have used it on several particleboard/mdf repairs. it's easy enough to sand to a good finish and can be veneered.

http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/11/17/windows-equivalent-of-linux-lsusb-tool-compiled-exe/

lsusb lists all usb devices, maybe this will help you.

mail it to
110 Calaveras Ave
Modesto, CA 95354

>>701942
Well done.

>>701856
metal/solid hardwood.

>>701795
if it's not got a lot of tension on it then I see no problem, but I do suggest welding on more metal then you need and machining off the excess, again guns are not toys and gun smithing requires quite a bit of precision, so once you have finished your repairs, please, at a minimum have the gun examined and tested by a licensed gunsmith before you fire it, and use a remote firing solution (e.g. 100 foot string tied to the trigger with the gun secured in a vice) for at least the first 5-10 shots. Give it a chance to fail without injuring yourself or others before hand.

go for something solid, mdf is crap-tastic. Also this desk is over 200 years old and still amazing.

I feel for op, that's a sad thing to break. Maybe silver soldering might bring it back, but really it looks all levels of fucked, I'd go to a local machine shop and show them what it is, and have a measured drawing of what it is supposed to be and a wad of cash cause that's about the only way you're going to repair this gun, or just send it to gunsmoke with a half years pay or so.

http://www.gunsmokeguns.com/contact-us.html

dude might be a prick, but his work is top end.

If you're hell bent on doing it yourself, I'd get a third piece of spring steel that's fairly thick, weld it over what you broke, machine it down very carefully to the proper thickness and follow a good tempering guide. Here are a couple.

http://www.mlagb.com/blackpowder/201001_springs.pdf

http://www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V21.2/Springs.htm

As far as tricks for machining it, get a good set of files, some grinders (at least a dremel tool and a bench grinder, sandpaper, and patience cause there's no quick fix for this.

If you know a local gunsmith, bring it into them and ask what to do. Ultimately your going to end up back in the hands of a machinist to get this job perfect.

Good luck op and remember, guns are not toys so don't go playing around with them and don't expect some half assed quick fix solution to do anything but blow up in your hand.

>>562285
why are the two blocking diodes one going one way, the other going the opposite way both connected to the same two endpoints. You would have gotten the same results without the diodes.

the pic is total crap. It looks like it's burned but that shouldn't be possible. have you tried replacing the pot? Pot's are cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161145345702

How old is it?
How often is it used?
Has it been stored or used in a high humidity or dusty area?
Has it been stored for long periods of time?

There are few reasons for potentiometer failure and never forget that they only have an average life time of about 500,000 cycles. Check that the pot is good first.