/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>83029
We've spoken before, radiofag. =D

I am fully aware of the implications of an iron block.
If you still have my email, let me know the specifics of it and I'll give you an honest offer on it(not what you should pay, but what I'll give you for it)

Also, I found a '38 J-4 for $27k with 906TT =P

Aircraft Mechanicfag here. I will tell you from personal experience that it doesn't matter whether you Mac/diy/ver a project out of it or not, you can sell it to grease monkeys like me for a profit. Assuming it actually runs, I'll give you $30 plus shipping.

>>68705
email me at

thegoochtastic@gmail.com

if you're not a troll i'll give you my legit email and make you an instructable.I'm not gonna post any of the detail work on here until the knowitalls and 'purists' shut up and quit making up laws and talking about 'fuckin russians guns ass balls ruin it berp herp i'm 12 and penis hurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr'

>>68667
I would put an acog on, but why put $1400 worth of optics on a $100 gun? The Walther can withstand the recoil, and is a quick target acquisition sight. Its no EOtech, but It does the job and does it well.

I don't want the iron sights for CQ hog hunting when I can throw on a better-suited night sight. Hogs root and feed at dusk/just after dark, and if I can upgrade from iron sights, why not?

>>68400
Guns, cars, kites who cares. Its a /diy/ project for a /diy/ board.

Next I'll be glass bedding the action, and free floating the barrel.
I have the stock sanded down. Here is the Monster Nagant as it sits right now, next to its old twin brother.

Now it's time to work the crown.

Larry explains it better than I can with a picture, so here's this video.

http://www DOT youtube DOT com/watch?v=OorpZlG28fI

After you have filed it down, take scotch-brite and a bit of oil and work out the marks from the file.

>>68389
Just so you know, the steel core is marked with a silver tip.

Next, take a fine double cut file and work the muzzle down to remove the tool marks from the saw. Be sure to keep the Muzzle square.

>>68386
I use the steel core milsurp from the late 70s. The primers on these sometimes are slow(up to a second after the firing pin clicks before the round goes off) but I have yet to find a single dud.

The 91/30 barrel is 28.75 inches(measured from the face of the bolt while closed). ATF says you can have a barrel as small as 16(including muzzle brake) inches without a tax stamp(if the overall weapon length is 26 inches or more). I marked the barrel at 17 inches.

If any of you plan to do this, BE SURE to tape the side of the barrel you are keeping, so it doesn't get marred by your tools. Use the correct blade and plenty of oil. Don't let the metal get too hot.

Shaped it with a sanding block and 120 grit paper.
Be sure to keep the sanding paper clean. It works better and lasts alot longer.

Secondary cut to stock

Measured, marked, and made primary cut to the stock.

>>67987
>>67997
Not sure if trolling... but how's this. There are 14 million run-of-the-mill Mosin's that can be bought for under $100 dollars. As in that's all they're worth. Why don't you people ever show up bitching about Tapco fucking an SKS, or for that matter, making a tacti-cool AR.

I am taking an old, reliable workhorse and getting the most out of it. You can take 9 inches off the 91/30's barrel without affecting the accuracy. I'm taking off 10.5 inches to increase portability/maneuverability, free floating the barrel, glass bedding the action(both to improve accuracy) and putting on an older Walther Holo sight I have laying around.

>>67987
Section 2.1.3 on NFA Rifles. Read it, asshat.

Make a mitre box. It's invaluable for precision woodwork.

Besides, this is /diy/, you might as well make your precision cutting tool.

Here is the inside of the rear sight. The shiny parts are where the metal was bonded to the dovetail and sheared apart. This sight is badly marred, and while salvagable with some effort, I will replace it with a permanently mounted Picatinny rail.

That's all I've got done so far. I'll be sanding and trimming the stock tomorrow.

My dovetail rail and the sight were rusted together. Removal of the rear sight rendered it unusable, and left chunks of steel on the dovetail.
You can see the chunks of metal bonded to the dovetail.
I have since used a hand file, chisel, and scotch-brite to remove the excess material.

The 2 arrows mark the location of the 2 pins securing the rear sight to the dovetail rail. Drive out those pins first, then using a BRASS DRIFT and a BALL PEEN HAMMER - ALWAYS use the proper tools for the job - drive the rear sight toward the muzzle/front sight.

DO NOT attempt to remove the rear sight unless you plan on replacing it.

Got the gun stripped down today, have all the parts soaking in mineral spirits. I'm sure you all know how to take down your firearm so I won't post pictures from that, but for you Mosin owners, I'll post a picture of the dovetail and rear sight after I removed it. I hosed the rear sight with this stuff and let it sit for 4 hours. It still took me 45 minutes to get the rear sight off.

>>67041
>>67041
I'm helping a buddy 'sporterize' his Mosin this weekend too, and I'm almost he'll want his blued and the wood refinished, but if neither of us do it, I'm almost done prepping my project guitar(which I'm going to stain/seal) so you'll be getting pictures and instructions either way.

>>67043
Lolbrez