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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.421324 [View]

>>421323
Oh, forgot to add that on the aerate step I'd probably try vacuuming it too.

>> No.421323 [View]
File: 80 KB, 1024x683, creation_of_the_bro_fist_by_thestink411-d2uf9k4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
421323

Haven't had to deal with this one myself but generally there's the same method to cleaning things.

Step 1: Aerate it.
It could just be that your chair (Be it car or office) hasn't had enough airflow. So, lets push some air past it. You could do so passively by just opening the windows/doors to get a good flow going past it or if you're more aggressive about getting that stank out you could point fans at it. Maybe even beat it with a stick a few times if it's one of those cloth seats to get the dust out. Be creative.

Step 2: Chemicals
Try spraying some Lysol or something similar on it. Could mask the scent/kill bacteria enough for it to be tolerable. If that's not enough and you don't think it'll damage the chair go ahead and hit that with some cleaner. Not sure about leather (You may have to go to step three for that) but for cloth I'd make some sort of wash using watered down cleaner, dump it on it/work it into the material with my hands and then dry it out somehow. If putting it out in the sun for a day or two works to dry it I'd do that, or maybe use a heater to do the job. (Far enough away to not make it melt/catch fire.

Step 3: Nuke that bitch
If you REALLY want that chair to stop stinking and none of the above steps worked it may be time to just scrap the material. Take a thread remover and take apart the seams holding the fabric together being careful to remember how it all fits together still. (You may want to make a drawing of the pieces fitting together before it's completely apart. Go to a craft store and get some foam or whatever that closely matches the material that's in it and carefully carve it to match the original. If the stink is in the fabric itself then get some new fabric and reupholster it at the same time. I don't think leather would hold enough of a stink to be a problem but this would be a good time to give it a good cleaning as well.

Then just sew it back together and whala, you've got yourself a non-stinky chair.

>> No.390955 [View]

>>390951
$1000 isn't really all that much investment-wise and it's good to have around in an emergency when you might not be able to access your bank accounts.

If you can save it up and don't "need" it, why not have a little bit more of a safety net?

>> No.390953 [View]

Take a door down and cut a hole in the top. Most inside doors nowadays have this cardboard-like support structure inside that's easy to cut a cavity into. Take that, maybe glue in some walls to keep what's in there from dropping down further and use the piece you cut out to make a disguised opening and you've got yourself a decent cache.

Haven't done it myself but I read about it a while ago and seemed like a good idea. I mean, who checks the tops of doors? Especially if it's just a thin line. You could even embed magnets into it to keep it from coming up randomly and catching on the door frame.

>> No.387669 [View]

>>387628
Yeah, I've done that to cut them in half but not the bottom either.

For the dremel I meant with diamond, glass grinding bits.

>> No.387668 [View]

>>387655
Just a choice of how involved you want to be with it. Apple works well out of the box and for things you don't want to have to learn about and tweak. They're shitty when it comes to doing things they're not designed to do though. (Like being modified) I prefer the hands on approach but I understand why they have such a following; it's easy.

>> No.387629 [View]

>>387622
Ah, I must have accidentally skipped that part. Didn't see the "have to ship to Norway."

>> No.387615 [View]

>>387612
You could try cutting it out with a dremel. Do-able but you wouldn't be able to glue it back in and it would take a lot of time. Maybe if you had access to specialized cutting machinery but I'm not sure how else you would manage that.

>> No.387603 [View]

>>387561
If you've got more than you need after finding projects for them and just want to get rid of them try selling them.

Cut off the tops with a glass cutter or the fire/water trick and sell em' to college students as cheap glasses for 3 for $5 or something. You make more than you would recycling them and it doesn't take much time to do at all to make a decent profit.

>> No.387599 [View]

>>387593
I like Sansas. They're cheap, work and never had a problem with them that I didn't cause. A little buggy at times but changing out the firmware to Rockbox solves that easily.

>> No.387595 [View]

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Go to plastics, tubing, then shapes made with teflon and you'll have a decent selection.

Not affiliated with them but I've bought PETG tubing from there before and had no problems at all. Comes in a cardboard tube and individually wrapped in paper to prevent scratching. (The stuff I got was clear so that mattered)

My dad uses Grainger more but I haven't looked into their selection at all.

Curious as to what you need it for if you've got time to describe? (I just like hearing about people's projects, gives me ideas for my own)

>> No.387592 [View]

>>387260
Just be a good person and give it back. I mean seriously, wouldn't you want that if you lost yours?

>> No.387430 [View]

>>387429
Or, you could go play minecraft or something and do that. I know that I had a lot of fun designing redstone circuits and building various mazes using traps and attempted optical illusions.

>> No.387429 [View]

In general houses there's not enough space within the walls for it to fit a maze. You'd have to start from the ground up and design one with that in mind and then build it; which, correct me if I'm wrong, I don't think you know how to do safely and according to codes in your area.

I'd suggest if you really want to do it to just start drawing what it could look like. Have fun with it, design your dream home and maybe even check into building codes to see if yours fits them. Maybe check out some architecture or free information online and eventually attempt to build it.

>> No.386858 [View]

>>386139
I'd go with one of the companies that's pioneering the new air-less tires. Those things are going to be a hit once the R&D is done.

>> No.386855 [View]

>>386833
Oh awesome, yeah. I used one of those in my voltage regulator and am familiar with the principal. I don't know why I didn't make the connection there as the symbol I'm familiar with has the arrow slashing through the resistor symbol rather than on the side.

>> No.386827 [View]

>>386758
Thanks for the advice. I've actually been here for quite a while, just never bothered to tripcode as I didn't have anything to actually share until now. It's exciting, motivation came from nowhere and I'm doing a lot of projects. Plan on writing an instructable on this one once I get it done. Making an all-in-one function generator and voltage source. Starting simple and increasing accuracy as I learn. Will probably have some more bells and whistles at the end of it but I was going for accuracy as I plan to experiment with signals and electromagnets later.

The email was made for giving out to people I want to contact on here but I forgot to take it back off since last time I did that. Don't want to lose it as I've actually grown attached to the name.

>>386756
I love animations like this. Helped me a lot when I was taking classes to understand the concepts.

>>386776
I think I'd get this more if I knew what R2 was. A three prong resistor? Just don't know the symbol.

>>386791
I think the flipflop is the route I'm going to take, just have to do some learning into their operation as I've forgotten. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll check out the datasheet after trying to find them in my textbook.

>> No.386757 [View]

Ah, I see now. I didn't think about the effect on the rest of the circuit taking it out would do. Just that math-wise it would balance out the formula. (I had a feeling that it was too simple to work that way)

Thanks for the idea on the flip-flop. From what I understand of them that's probably the route I want to take with it.

>> No.386726 [View]
File: 400 KB, 1920x1080, 1343274424271.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
386726

So I've got a little project I'm working on but I was having a little bit of a tough time understanding how to get a square wave from my 555 timer that has an equal time for high and low voltages.

Looking at the formula it gives you on the datasheet, would I want to put it in astable mode. So the formula for high would be .693(RA + RB)C and for low .693(RB)C. So, if I just leave out the RA shouldn't the two times be equal or would I encounter problems by doing that?

Here's the PDF: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm555.pdf

I figure I'll use this thread as a general questions one as I expect to have more as I work on this further. (I'm really rusty with circuit analysis)

>> No.385031 [View]

>>385006
Thanks for the advice! I've actually been considering this if I don't get the job I want over the Summer and my other backup plans don't work.

A friend of mine did it a while back and said that while hard and a pain in the ass, it was still a good experience and made him a nice chunk of change to boot.

>> No.385029 [View]

>>385023
Why would you say that? I truly believe it and you have no reason not to think so. Just the fact that I'm the type of person who would take the time to type out that reply implies that I'm at least going to attempt to.

Instead you go out of your way to tell someone else what they can't do instead of can.

>> No.385005 [View]

Because I'm better than that. It would be fun and I would survive...but I've got a lot more to contribute to society than just disappearing.

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