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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.659269 [View]
File: 45 KB, 594x533, 6zu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
659269

like a bosch

>> No.659056 [View]

>>659052
Thanks! I lost these pieces a while ago so i am going to try the plastic thing

>> No.659051 [View]

>>659049
Are they standardized or i should try to find out who was the maker of this connector?

>> No.659046 [View]
File: 96 KB, 800x587, conn.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
659046

What is the name of this connector? It used to hold a 4 wire ribbon cable. It is on the motherboard of my laptop, it used to be a mouse connector.

Now the problem is that it used to have a movable part which secured the cable in the hole but i broke that part. Can i get a new connector and get off that cable lock like part and put on this connector on my motherboard?

>> No.658940 [View]

>>658936
Robotics/PLC basically means programming.

I don't know what did you expect. They won't teach EEs shit about bending metal sheets and stuff because it is not their job. You fucked up the hiring.

>> No.658457 [View]

>>658430
Price is the same but it almost half as weak as that Craftsman.

>> No.658373 [View]

>>657116
Wouldn't it just show up as a bigass continous "1" value? I doubt that could destroy a dataline.

>> No.658367 [View]
File: 39 KB, 427x534, bosch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
658367

My country became saturated with these sexy-ass green Bosch tools in the last 2 years.
Are they good quality?

>> No.658047 [View]

>>658045
Of course the red + and blue - are not connected to each other. Ideally you plug in your power supply at the top of the breadboard into the red and blue rails and then you will have your supply rails close to your components within the full length of the boards so you dont need to jumper long distances with cables.

>> No.658045 [View]

>>657062
Yes you need to connect every resistor to the ground rail.
Ideally the red + and blue - rails are connected internally all the way in the breadboard so you only need to connect the ATX ground at one place to the breadboards - blue rail, all the stuff plugged in the blue rail (in your case the resistors and a wire) will be connected

>> No.657059 [View]

>>657057
you dont even need to use that rotary switch btw, just touch the resistor with the multimeter in the row where it connects to the 20pin molex/atx conenctor (other end of the multimeter goes to ground)

>> No.657057 [View]
File: 96 KB, 897x522, lel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
657057

>>657045
this is how pin11 and it's network on your image should look like on a breadboard

>> No.657042 [View]

connecting that 20pin molex to the breadboard will be a pain in the ass

what i did once is soldering stranded wires to connectors like that, about 10inch/25cm long and then solder these 1 pin connectors to the other end of the cable to make them easier to plug in the breadboard

or use solid core wire

>> No.656754 [View]

>>656633
>>656733
>>656735
>>656737
>>656745
>>656746
This is why i hate engineering

>> No.655682 [View]

What do you mean by directly control?

You can send serial data to your arduino via the serial monitor or even over the internet with sites like sensormonkey or exosite and an ethernet shield.

If the code you are running on your arduino can respond to those serial messages then it qualifies as direct control i guess.

>> No.655561 [View]

>>655522
I meant that comment as a reply to the idea that i want to do paid electrician jobs. I just want to help my family and friends here and there.

>> No.655514 [View]

>>655495
I don't really want to set my house or my friends/relatives houses on fire.

>> No.655485 [View]

>>655470
Can i become a sort of passable electrician by reading the NEC and watching youtube videos? (i have electronic engineering background)
There are always some friends or family projects which would require some high voltage work (by "high" i mean higher than 15V) but i always turn them down but now i became interested in doing shit with my two hands instead of looking at a computer screen all day. I think i kinda miss building modular synths and things like that.

>> No.655469 [View]

>>655467
Do they even state things like how thick should be the copper wire, how to connect wires safely and things like that?

>> No.655465 [View]

Is there a book on this stuff or similar content where i can learn how to do this shit safe and with obeying the law/code?
I've made numerous through hole low voltage circuits so i am not a complete retard to electronics but mains voltage and house renovation stuff is new to me.

>> No.647959 [View]

>>647953
the tap water has pretty low alkalinity in most of the US, in my country i should add calcium and boil the water before the mash otherwise the ph would be ernomously high
also i should us campden (metabisulfite) too

the best thing in the US that you can buy RO/distilled water really cheap, i am jelly

>> No.647954 [View]

>>647951
the color in the fermenter is always misleading

if it will be still dark in the glass then his mash ph was too high and he caramelized/burnt the wort too much during the boil

also pitch 2 packets of rehidrated yeast into 5 gallon batches, the benefits are numerous, one should underpitch only hefes, saisons and some belgians

>> No.647952 [View]

>>647488
this step happens around 150F (plus minus 5F depending on how much you want to dry the beer out) you should keep the grains in the 150F water for 60 minutes

>>647510
this step tooks 60 or 90 mins depending on the recipe
first you bring up the beer to boil temps, wait for the hotbreak to happen and after it you add your 60 minute hops into a strong, uncovered boil
>>647517
cool it down to 70F as fast as possible

>>647533
ferment it between 65-70F beer temp which means about 5F lower room temp, google swamp coolers if your room is too hot
also wait 2-3 weeks before bottling to avoid bottle bombs

pitch a fuckload of healthy yeast, sanitize everything after the boil like mad, keep the temps

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