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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.1100226 [View]

Logical increments.

Buying right now is a tiny bit dumb because Zen isn't that far from dropping, but if you're going for an entry level PC, I guess you're fine.

>> No.1069134 [View]

Heated pistol grip

>> No.1064079 [View]
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1064079

>>1064075
I've got a Homelite Bandit LX30 for tasks like that, it's a really nice saw.
But the battery powered ones can be okay too.
The Ryobi one in the picture looks nice, mostly because it doesn't have that retarded front guard thing on the blade that the B&D one does.

I had to put a few of these together when I worked at Dewalt.

>> No.1062732 [View]

>>1062709
Oh man I've always wanted an excavator.
Objectively the coolest piece of machinery.

How are you moving it around though? Hire a truck every time?

>> No.1055108 [View]

>>1055104
Basically what you want to do is get the brushes out and pull that entire assembly with the rotor.
That little nut is reverse threaded, so lefty loosey doesn't apply here.
The way we got it off in the Dewalt service was by carefully mounting the rotor into a vice and then getting at the nut.
The Gear then just slides off and you're free to pull out the rotor.

>> No.1055096 [View]

Can you post a few more pictures?
I'm only familiar with ripping open B&D and Dewalt tools.

If I'm understanding correctly you're probably thinking of just pulling off the front metal part.

Depending on the model specifics you're not going to get that part off without pulling out the Rotor, so I'd suggest you start by opening up the rear end and taking out the brushes.

After that remove the 4 screws from the head and you should be able to pull it off along with the rotor.

>> No.1041811 [View]

I have the one in your picture actually.

It's not even bad, but there's things to consider.
The Frequency setting isn't what I'd call useful.
The Temperature settings just doesn't work, like at all.
I tried it on several of these since we used them in school. Dead on all of them.

But other than that, it's a neat meter. Been measuring straight from the wall socket and I haven't died *yet*, so it's certainly better than your typical death machine $5 trash from Alibaba.

>> No.1039289 [View]

>>1039227
Well according to the board label, it's a Socket 478 board.
So, useless really.

Had it really been AM2+ it might've been interesting.

>> No.1039287 [View]

>>1039213
>gtfo namefag.
kys my man

Buying an AMD board and CPU right now would be idiotic.
Zen is literally right around the corner.
You're buying a dead socket.

With intel right now you'd atleast have the "upgrade" path to Kaby Lake since it's on the same socket as Skylake.

Buying AM3+ right now is idiotic.
I'd maybe, MAYBE defend an APU build, but with Zen putting APUs and CPUs on the same AM4 platform, you'd be a fool to limit yourself to the meme tier FM2+ socket.

I'm not even arguing about performance. A mid range AMD chip should still be enough to cover the needs of most consumers, especially if you pair it with an Nvidia GPU that doesn't suffer from driver overhead, needing a strong CPU on the current APIs, but you're literally telling him to buy a deprecated socket, cucking him out of an upgrade path.

>> No.1038760 [View]

>>1038600
>AMD CPU in C U R R E N T Y E A R

I really hope you're joking

>> No.1038514 [View]

>>1038443
Well a Z170 chipset opens up the wonderful world of Overclocking.

At that point you could even consider a 6600K over the non-K 6500 for not that much of a price boost.

>> No.1038417 [View]

I'd go with a Seasonic 520W PSU over the suggested EVGA one.
They're great PSUs and it's a tiny bit cheaper.

Also I'd opt for a Samsung SSD.
Personally I'd fall for the 16gb meme with two sticks in Dual channel.

You don't need anything more than a stock cooler for a 6500, but if you value silence you might want to look at an aftermarket solution.

>> No.1037810 [View]
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1037810

>>1037807
Well it's still a decent machine. And a passive matrix display isn't really that bad for DOS era games.
I also had the pleasure of using an Escom BlackMate 386SXL-IV which really wasn't too terrible for vidya.

>> No.1037802 [View]

>>1037800
According to the specs though, it's supposed to be about the same if not a bit quicker than my 480CDT.
Would they really ship it with a screen that bad? The one on my Toshiba is perfectly responsive. The viewing angles are a bit shit, but the refresh rate is perfectly modern.

>> No.1037800 [View]

>>1037798
That's not really a 98 era machine.

Design wise, I'd say it looks quite a bit older than a Satellite 480CDT (the one I have), which was a 98 era machine (with a W95 sticker)

>> No.1037794 [View]

It could be that your laptop has an STN screen.

>> No.1019206 [View]

>>1019202
Looks pretty handy for the oscilloscope variety, but a bit pointless for a Multimeter since you don't need any special cables. You could probably make your own for very little money.

>> No.1017968 [View]

This is some extreme guess work done while squinting when looking at the pictures.

Would you happen to know the rough origin of the devices? I'd say that they might be part of some sort of CNC machine. The first one looks to be a Motor driver or controller and the sockets look like they could fit in a modular CNC rig type of thing.

>> No.1013295 [View]

>>1013210
Photoresist master race

>> No.1012850 [View]

Well for gaming I genuinely think it makes more sense to step down to an i5.
You're saving $100 just on that
As for storage, seriously consider an SSD along with a WD Black HDD for storage.

Something a little bit like this.
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/XdFTHN

Now you could save even more money by going with an H110 chipset motherboard, the thing with those is that you'd only be dealing with Two RAM slots, now if that's fine with you and assuming eventual RAM upgrades, there's nothing wrong with going with that.

As far as buying Windows goes, I really don't think you should.
Atleast not Windows 10.
The free upgrade is still active, you should be able to find a copy of Windows 7 somewhere for far less money or perhaps get a copy from Dreamspark if you know any students.
It's just throwing away money.

>> No.1012838 [View]

>>1012833
>>1012834
/g/ technically isn't the board for it either.
Tech support and similar belongs on /wsr/.

But regardless, what kind of a workload are you planning on using the PC for?
Also did you take the GTX 970 from an older build or did you buy it?

>> No.1012768 [View]

>>1012595
Ground is not the same as common.

That's something you need to understand from the context of the circuit. People use "Ground" as a general term for "0V potential".
Ground as used correctly is used for protection and is connected to conductive housings of electrical devices. Current does NOT flow through the ground wire during normal operation.

Common is typically connected to the negative terminal inside the context of a circuit. Current flows through the common rail during normal operation.

>> No.1011623 [View]

>>1011612
>but im hoping this whole thing can cost < $500
Nope.
Not unless you actually want to accomplish something. There are better ways to piss away $500.

>> No.1010917 [View]

>>1010746
Well it depends on the tip.
The standard conical one takes around 20 seconds, a chisel tip takes slightly longer since there's a bit more material to heat.

All in all, quicker than any electric iron I've ever used.
Also you can use standard cigarette lighter butane. The Weller my dad used to have was really picky about the gas and only worked properly with their own brand which cost stupid amounts of money.

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