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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.738119 [View]

>>734038
>>734056
>>735043
>>736187
For anyone wondering (you shouldn't be, because I've rightfully faded into complete obscurity), I'm still here and giving advice, I just dropped the trip (in all my 4chan posting, not just /diy/, though I never tripped outside of /diy/ anyway.) Turns out if you know what you are talking about people will listen to your post, and if you don't, they won't, and being anon or not doesn't affect that.

Probably won't do another giveaway here because as others pointed out in the past it wasn't entirely on topic to /diy/ and it encouraged begging threads. I also had no way of telling if the people getting free stuff needed it or not; might be going to some poor as shit anon living in a bad situation, might be going to some suburbanite living at home whose parents make more than I do.

Nowadays money I have for charity goes to Doctors Without Borders or the Grameen Bank, both great (and effective) charities that charity-minded anons should check out.

Anyway just felt like being a huge attention whoring faggot again and checking in. Dropping my trip after this post, and won't reply to replies to this. Also polite sage.

>> No.415292 [View]

>>415005
>Would a locking carabiner closure be safe for a dog collar?

Eh, kinda.

The downside to collars that aren't clip (ie buckle or yours) is that they won't release when force is applied to the collar so there is the possibility that your dog could end up garroting themselves. However there are plenty of commercial collars that have this problem, and while there are a good number of such deaths each year it's not like dogs are being frequently killed by such collars.

I would take into account your dogs habits when deciding if it's safe for them. If they jump fences or something else that might put them in a situation where they could be hanged from the collar at a height (getting it caught on something at their level would be annoying but not a safety hazard) then I would not use a carabiner in your collar. Otherwise it will probably be safe.

Also fyi the plates like in >>415007 are great since they won't fall/caught on something and pulled off like regular tags. You also might want to consider microchipping your dog; it's about $30 and will stay with your dog no matter what unlike collars. Shelters check for microchips when dogs are brought in, which is great but especially important if you have an older dog or a less aesthetic mutt that shelters would consider "unadoptable" and possibly put down sooner rather than later. Microchips can also be used to settle ownership disputes if that ever comes up.

>> No.397101 [View]

I think the

>- FIRST ASK GOOGLE, Then ask /diy/
>- Be as specific as you can.
>- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
>- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)

part is definitely needed. I would also add something like "This is a slower board, so be patient and be sure to check back later for replies; threads on this board stick around for days." Possibly even "You don't need to bump every five minutes."

It helps people have their questions answered better, makes it more likely their questions will be answered and will also make it easier for people answering questions. The first couple of posts in most question threads are people asking the OP to be more specific about what they're wanting to do and what tools/experience they have.

If we're lucky it will also prevent the common scenario where someone asks a question, bumps twice in 20 minutes, leaves and doesn't see the half dozen good answers that come a couple hours later.

I have no opinion on the picture used for the sticky except that it not be any recognizable person/tv personality.

>> No.395910 [View]

Looks good. If you ever need to reinforce where the pole meets the band you might try a stainless steel screw clamp.

On the topic of fishing, if you're usually on the east coast of Florida you might try spearfishing. There's a reef line about 100-150 yards off the shore and then another about half a mile out. You can swim right out to it, and there aren't many places you can do that. If you're interested I can give some more info (gear, where to go, etc.)

>> No.395842 [View]

All good advice in this thread so far.

Whether or not you can do this will depend upon your area (some don't have many duplexes, some places don't have a good market for rentals) but look into buying a duplex rather than a single family home.

You won't be able to rent out the other half for quite as much as you would a single family home of the same size, but you'll get pretty close. They're easier to work on than a separate property (since you live right there) and many of the pitfalls that come from bad tenants will be avoided simply because you live next door (most people that will cause you problems won't want to rent from a landlord that lives next door.)

>> No.395825 [View]

>>395693 (OP)
>>395749

You should check the switch panel in the bathroom; unless your school is very old (and even then it will probably have this) one of those switches should turn on a vent fan. Turning this on will provide you some ventilation while using chemicals (though a window and a high powered fan will probably work better.) It might be on a different switch panel from the light switches or it might be on the same switch as a light.

If you have such a fan, especially if it's not on the same switch as a light, THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO TO STOP MOLD FROM COMING BACK:

Put a sign near the switch that says something like: "Use this vent fan when you shower so that our bathroom isn't so shitty and full of mold." Tell people that use the bathroom that they should use the vent fan. If you go in the bathroom and it's humid and moist, turn on the vent fan and leave it running. Possibly instruct others to do the same. This will make a huge difference.

>> No.395824 [DELETED]  [View]

>>395693
>>395749

You should check the switch panel in the bathroom; unless your school is very old (and even then it will probably have this) one of those switches should turn on a vent fan. Turning this on will provide you some ventilation while using chemicals (though a window and a high powered fan will probably work better.) It might be on a different switch panel from the light switches or it might be on the same circuit as a light.

If you have such a fan, especially if it's not on the same circuit as a light, THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO TO STOP MOLD FROM COMING BACK:

Put a sign near the switch that says something like: "Use this vent fan when you shower so that our bathroom isn't so shitty and full of mold." Tell people that use the bathroom that they should use the vent fan. If you go in the bathroom and it's humid and moist, turn on the vent fan and leave it running. Possibly instruct others to do the same. This will make a huge difference.

>> No.395823 [View]
File: 12 KB, 250x250, 1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
395823

Use white vinegar or a limescale cleaner (there are plenty of brands and a bunch of offbrands that vary from place to place) to get rid of the limescale, then afterwards use some Simple Green D (not the same as the regular simple green) to get rid of microbes. You should only need one jug since it comes concentrated. It will do a better job than bleach since bleach doesn't kill mold spores, only the growing mold. Another "hospital grade sanitizer" will also do, I just haven't used any such brands myself.

Keep in mind that if there continues to be a problem with moisture buildup in the bathroom, the mold will come back either way. It will just take longer with the simple green D.

>>395744
>>395747

The steam cleaning he's thinking of (even though the OP pic is wrong) is more like a pressure washer that uses steam instead of a pump to build pressure than a carpet steam cleaner. Pic related. They work very well on tile and grout, and won't cause any issues with moisture worse than taking a long shower; most only hold a gallon of water and unless it's a huge bathroom he won't even use that much to clean it.

You do want to be careful when using them though, since you can burn yourself with water vapor and if you use them after you used chemicals they'll likely aerosolize the chemicals when you spray treated areas. They'll also aerosolize things like urea stains on the base of toilets. Use rubber gloves and goggles.

They are however fairly cheap and won't be costing you anything other than the price of distilled water to run once you have one.

>> No.390801 [View]

Vets do this all the time for animals, but you'd be better off putting it somewhere other than your hand. Anywhere that has at least a small amount of fat under the skin (and nothing important like your hand does) should work.

>> No.386081 [View]

>>386076

One more advantage such a piece would have is that it would be very light, probably lighter than what you could fabricate out of wood. It will be made out of aluminum, plastic and some fiberglass.

Saging for my double post.

>> No.386076 [View]

OP you might want to see if there's a scrapyard near you that has airplane parts available; I know of people that have chopped off the front portion (sans prop) of defunct airplanes in order to make flight sims similar to what you're making.

Such a set up might be useful to you, depending upon how close the configuration of the airplane's controls are to what you're envisioning. At the very least you might be able to cannibalize it for cool-looking knobs and switches rather than buying them new (I don't know the feasibility of linking these to your computer though since I cannot into electronics.)

>> No.384486 [View]

If you don't have any real work experience doing what you're planning on hiring other guys to do it's going to be real hard to get worthwhile guys. They'll be more skeptical of you than potential customers will.

Your best bet is to do what >>384394 said.

>> No.380576 [View]

>>380569
>I bet you think that Kaczynski was crazy as well.

For being a luddite and living in the woods by himself? No.

For sending bombs to people through the mail? Probably but not necessarily.

Here's the thing: someone doesn't have to be insane to be a dangerous menace hellbent on killing people.

>> No.380570 [View]

>>380566

Wanted to add, the hobby stuff I meant in my post is referencing the people that hide caches in spiderholes around their property and buy zombie-slashing weapons because "you don't have to reload a blade."

Keeping a store of dry food and water to get you through a hurricane, a generator to get you through a blizzard, a tornado shelter or anything else along that line is just good sense and it's actually pretty foolish not to prepare for such things.

There's also the stuff like growing your own food or keeping animals for food that city slickers might consider "prepping" even though the majority of people that live in rural areas do both to some degree.

>> No.380566 [View]

It really depends on whether or not they're looking forward to/hoping for a disaster.

If they aren't, then they're perfectly fine.

If they are, they're not not necessarily bad people but they might be crazy and they probably don't have enough to do in their lives.

Both groups are using "prepping" as a bit of escapism and a way to accessorize their lives, but plenty of people do the same thing with less useful and far more pretentious hobbies so I can't really fault them for it. In that regard I don't see it as being any different from collecting antiques or over-modifying a car. At least they aren't keeping a $150k boat to go fishing once a year. or something like that.

While I wouldn't consider myself a "prepper," I do have a bug out bag. It's intended for getting through natural or man-made disasters rather than riding out the end of the world. I really fucking hope that I never have a reason to use it, since I know that even in a "mild" disaster there's a better than good chance that people I know will get hurt or killed, and in a "end of the world" scenario odds are I'm one of the majority of people that is killed offscreen before the movie even starts.

>> No.380181 [View]

Flip it up under your belt.

>> No.380176 [View]

>>380136

This, specifically weldwood's contact cement. It will be in a red can (this is assuming you're in the US.)

Remember to ventilate the area sufficiently and apply it with something you plan on throwing away.

>> No.380175 [View]

How waterproof are you looking to make it?

Waterproof so you can set wet glasses on it, waterproof like a boat that gets used for a day and then stored, waterproof like a boat that gets left in the water or somewhere in between one of those?

Your paint will go on before the clear coat. Just make sure that your paint and clear coat are compatible.

Also FOLLOW DRY TIMES EXACTLY. I can't stress that enough. Even if it seems like the amount of time is overkill, it doesn't matter. Follow the instructions.

>> No.380085 [View]
File: 25 KB, 500x500, blue1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
380085

>>380002
>>it will stay on your walls until you repaint em dude.
>I believe you, but they were painted right before we moved in. I guess the previous tenant smoked A LOT.

If they didn't use a stainblocking primer when they painted then the tobacco oil will seep through pretty easily.

I've seen something very similar to your OP pic before, and it was tobacco stains coming through. But that was in a laundry room where the guy was venting the drier indoors (they sell kits for it that prevent lint from getting into the house, but it doesn't stop the moisture and it's a terrible idea to vent a drier indoors) so there is probably a whole lot of moisture being generated by something in your house, probably your shower not being vented or possibly cooking like others in the thread have said.

This probably isn't the case (and is against code in many states) but does the house have a ventless gas heater (like pic)? Those will give off moisture as the gas burns and if you have one it's probably contributing to your problem.

>> No.379886 [View]
File: 547 KB, 1632x3060, window.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
379886

>>379797

While hot air and cold air colliding causing condensation is true, there doesn't necessarily need to be cold air for this to happen. A solid surface that is cold will gather condensation just fine, which is what is happening with his windows. You are correct though, he probably doesn't have any insulation. The dehumidifier and vent advice is spot on.

You beat me to the Kilz suggestion, but I wouldn't recommend bleach as it won't kill mold spores. Kilz doesn't kill mold either (it's just a wonderful stainblocker.) He needs to get himself some simple green D or another product that is specifically designed to kill mold (there are bunches), then apply it to the walls as follows:

What he'll want to do is saturate the wall with whatever product he ends up using, then when it starts to dry reapply it so that the affected wall is wet again, and keep doing this over the course of a couple of hours. He'll end up applying it four or five times.

What this will do is bring the mold killing agent into the wallboard/plaster via capillary action, which is important since the mold likely extends deeper than just the surface of the wall.

>>379635

This, the windows and the surrounding wood likely need to be replaced. OP should look into using vinyl trim and sills to replace the rotten wood. I highly recommend using them, especially in wood framed houses since in addition to being impervious to rot themselves they'll save unexposed wood since they won't transfer moisture to surrounding wood when wet.

Pic related.

>> No.379863 [View]
File: 51 KB, 500x500, 142893_front500[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
379863

>>379606

This >>379749, you're going to have to use the shellac Kilz Original or another similar primer to prevent it from coming back through.

Make sure you use dropcloths and wear throwaway clothes because it doesn't clean up with water like latex-based stuff, only mineral spirits. It's easier to prevent it from getting on stuff than it is to clean it, even with mineral spirits, but you should have some on hand anyway.

Also wear an organic vapor respirator and keep the area ventilated or you'll experience what's commonly known as "huffing paint."

>> No.379856 [View]

Hi bunker dude.

Wanted to show you this, thought you would get a kick out of it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzBbrXFiwNE

>> No.357561 [View]

Drink some pedialyte.

>> No.354361 [View]

>>354330
>so your gonna put metal which can condensate next to insulation that needs to stay as dry as possible?

Who said it was gonna get put on an exterior wall, or that they wouldn't be using sprayed foam insulation? The possibility of condensation would also be a non-issue depending upon climate or other factors.

>you say that people shouldn't do their own structural work but you think they should do their own framing because thats not structural..

I didn't say it wasn't structural, just that someone could take their time on it and get it right. Someone could frame a house over a couple of months if that's how long it took them. You couldn't take the same amount of time to pour a foundation; what you have when the concrete dries is what you end up with, unless you want to demolish it and start over.

Plus wood framing is fairly simple; if it was welding on structural beams or something I would say hire somebody but framing is just putting nails into wood, sometimes you use bolts, ties or construction adhesive. It isn't rocket surgery.

>that the same guy should take care of all his own electrical and plumbing because he did an apprenticeship for both of those?

Why not, if he did an apprenticeship in both? Residential electrical and plumbing is pretty simple.

>You one of those people who I'm sure with enough time and effort could finish a job and have it right.. your gonna have to do it 3 times though...or you know you could just do it right the 1st time... hey your call.

You're assuming a bit much my friend. I've not had to redo any of the work I've done for myself or others.

Well, there was one guy that had a shower I did for him redone after his brother (who is a roofer) convinced him that redgard over durock isn't a good moisture barrier for a shower wall and the way to go was 30# roofing felt behind the durock. But he's one of those guys I mentioned in >>354256 that refuses to learn better.

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