/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Link to /k/ thread

>>>/k/15726246

I figured I would post this in /diy/ as well as /k/. This is straight up copypasta from my thread on /k/

Fellow /k/ommando's...

This will be quite a long winded post, so I will part from tradition and put the tl;dr up front.

>tl;dr If built properly, can the remington 700 action support the .460 s&w cartridge.

So, I want to do something off the wall and a bit unconventional. I have been tossing around the idea of making a 700 short action clone as a government project at work. I have access to multiple wire edm machines, so cutting the lug raceways would be no problem.

I really want to build this rifle in a goofy ass caliber that has no business being in a bolt action. Like the .460 Smith.

I have been reading and reading and reading on everything I can think of. I've learned about chambers, headspace, bolt lock up and internal ballistics. What I need is people who know more than me on these subjects, to give me some advice.

My MAIN concern is this. I know that the larger the case head, the more pressure is put on the locking lugs. So if both case A and case B make 65,000 psi of chamber pressure, but case B has a head that is .150 larger, then that case will put more stress on the bolt lugs than case A would.

Does anyone feel that the 700 short action is too weak to handle a .520 diameter case head that develops 65,000 psi?

I know that 22-250 is rated for 65,000 psi, but has a head diameter about .050 smaller. This may not seem like much but it is a 2400 pound difference in the force put on the bolt lugs.

How much force can the 700 short action take before the lugs fail? Maybe not fail, but what is safe and what is not?

Sorry for the length, but I think it was warranted. Thanks for any help anon can give.

Also OP works 2nd shift, I'll try to keep up with this thread but I start work in an hour.

As for inconel...

A number of months ago, I submitted a form 1 to the ATF to build a suppressor. Still waiting to get it back, and I don't plan on doing it anytime soon.

For this project, I did purchase a small 1.5 x 3 inch section of 617 inconel. I got lucky and a manufacturer that I called, had this small cutoff piece for $50. I plan to make the initial blast baffle from this chunk. If I had, or could find more of the stuff I would love to make one out of inconel.

Who the fuck am I though? Knights Armament?

>>405715

Tis not stainless. It's made of A2 which is a general purpose tool steel. I work in the stamping die industry and we have literally tons of a number of very good tool steels on hand.

A2, D2, S7 and some CPM varieties here and there.

Any other metal heads around here. I love to talk metallurgy.

>>405506

Idk where you would buy a CTR for $100 but I would be just as butthurt as you if I did.

$40 at a gun show

>>405490

> Find me a lighter, cheaper or lower profile way to mount a light.

Also I figured it was the /diy/ spirit to make things work. It may not look good, but it is secure, low profile and uses what I have on hand.

No need to spend $100+ on a light and the $40+ on a mount when I have a pretty decent cr123 light and two zap straps

3/3

2/3

This is all I feel like doing right now. Gonna take it out in the snow tomorrow.

1/3

>>405278

How about General machine tools?

Pic of the comp in a spin jig, clamped in a vice in a CNC machine.

Being able to program with g and m codes makes simple projects like this much easier and consistent.

>>405232

Another thing to mess around with is exit diameter. I know that some 22 caliber suppressor use up to a .300 diameter exit hole. Some companies use a wire EDM to cut a taper from .275 at the muzzle to .300 at exit.

I used a 9/32 (.281) reamer for my exit. A compensator doesn't need such close tolerances because the length it has to travel through is only about 1.5 inches instead of 6 or so. I am now wishing I had used a smaller hole.

I might make another with a .250 reamed hole and test efficiency side by side.

> OP, maybe you could cam the whole rifle up with the compensator on for additional kickass ness?

This confuses me slightly. Not sure if too high to understand or if broken English is in play

>>405181
The brush on gel?

Looks good. Could use a q tip to get into the exit hole and just pack it in the tapped holes.

>>405166

I'll survive. Thanks.

I usually don't venture out of /k/, or post while the day shift is still around.

My peak time is around 1:30 a.m.

>>405126
>shitposted the fuck out of it

>>405122
If this is the case, then the BATFE needs to have a little sit down with Spikes Tactical, Tactical Solutions, Knights Armament, Ares Armor...the list goes on and on.

I am not worried one bit. Show me the a compensator reduces the volume by a statistically significant amount when measured using MIL-STD-810G testing method 515.6

Did you guys here that?

Sounded like a black SUV pulling in your driveway. And off in the distance...perhaps one of them black-cock helicopters

>>405087

Yes, fear the big bad Amurikan Gomament.

You pussies need to get outside more

>>405081

Thank you.

I went this route as opposed to just cutting static vent holes because if I release too much gas in the upward direction, then the muzzle will actually drop when the round is fired. And then I just wasted all that time to make a piece of scrap

>>405065

I'm glad the rest of you /diy/fags are regulating.

These two put a perma-bad-taste in my mouth when it comes to this board

>>405036

Well /diy/ was helpful...

Back to /k/ with this

>>405036
Google Effin-A

Made by Ares Armor and other than some minor differences, my comp and this one do the same thing with the same build concept

>>405019
Find me a lighter, cheaper or lower profile way to mount a light.

Also, A2 is a tool steel used mainly in die blocks in the stamping die industry. Moderately rust resistant, easy as pie to machine in the soft state and can be heat treated to very high levels and not chip out.

This will not be heat treated but will be blasted prior to blackening to give a satin finish

God damn auto correct

Parkerizing not plagiarizing

Hello /diy/

I come from /k/ but I guess this is more suited to you fellas.

I have just finished making a rifle compensator out of A2 round stock. Made it 2" long with a .281 hole reamed through the middle. Then I have drilled and tapped 6 rows of 5 8-32 set screws to fill the ports.

The idea is to be able to "tune" the comp to the specific host rifle. This way if I get muzzle rise, I can remove the a set screw on the top to vent gasses upward and push the muzzle back down. This way all you get is a straight push rearward instead of a flip that throws you off target.

Now, down to the real question. I need to blacken this thing and I'm not sure of the best way to do it. I have been thinking about oil blackening, heat the part up to a light orange and quench in used motor oil.

Anyone else have ideas for a steel blackening formula that yields a good finish, corrosion resistance and is relatively durable?

I want to keep the cost DOWN. Just looking for a quick and dirty way around plagiarizing, as I don't know where to get magnesium phosphate solution locally.

Sorry for the long winded post. Just following the sticky as best I can. More pics will follow if the thread shows interest.