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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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974565 No.974565 [Reply] [Original]

Has anyone designed an off grid shipping container based micro home? like plans and a list of thing you'd need?
-solar panels
-water filtration
etc

>> No.974567
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974567

>>974565
Pls no

>> No.974592

>>974565
Sure, furnish it with recycled pallet furniture and bury it and you got yourself an original idea OP.

>> No.974594

>>974565
>thing you'd need
An Arduino, definitely. Maybe even two.

>> No.974600

>>974594
Fuck I forgot that. Alright OP here is what you do, get a shipping container, bury it to make a bunker, make furniture out of old pallets, and control your solar power and water pumps with Arduinos mounted on 3D printed boxes. Then once you've got your off the grid shipping container bunker you want to horde as much useless crap you can find and spend all day asking other people what you can do with it.

>> No.974606

How many tesla batteries would you need for a dwelling that size?

>> No.974619

I'm bored so I'll bite and answer seriously. Depends entirely on your needs and wants.
I highly recommend a good programmable mppt charge controller. The higher voltage panels you can buy with an mppt charge controller are cheaper and the wire sizes will be smaller. Also most cheap pwm charge controllers do not have aggressive enough charging voltages to charge a battery in 3-4 hours which is the average amount of usable sun you can expect. 14.4 is to low for a flooded battery, you should bulk at 14.8. You can also somewhat oversize the array, you can go as high as 150% the max power of the midnite classic and current limit so you dont boil the batteries, can also parallel for even more power so even on weak sun days they get a good charge. Solar panels can be had petty damn cheap now. If you want anything more than lights, fans and a radio, go 24 volts. 12 volt systems are just to limited in size because of the voltage. 48 volt is even better but lack the options that 12/24 has and an inverter will be pretty much mandatory and your only option. 24 is superior since you can still use dc products and wire runs can be longer and thinner. I highly recommend a dc fridge or freezer. Running it off an inverter is cheaper and easier to source but just takes to much power vs dc. I have a 15 cubic foot dc sundanzer. In the worst conditions at 90 degrees it uses a third less power than my AC 5 cubic foot freezer.

>> No.974660
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974660

>>974565
use this for reference

>> No.974661

>>974600
you forgot the crab meat.

>> No.974662

>>974661
Kek, this

>> No.974665
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974665

M E M E S
E
M
E
S

>> No.975444

The general consensus in the tiny house community is that shipping containers are a pretty poor basis for any sort of residential building & only really have any value for such endeavors if you happen to have a local cheap source of them that makes them cheaper than 'traditional' building methods or if you actually intend to ship your house.

In order to insulate them & route electricals/plumbing you either need to build an extra layer on the inside (making them even smaller) or on the outside (making them no longer shipable). Either way you're talking about a process that is likely just as expensive & time consuming as building a wooden frame building from scratch.

>>974600
You can't bury shipping containers. They have no strength whatsoever in the walls/ceiling, the only structural strength is in the uprights in the corners (which is where all the force is when they're actually stacked & shipped). If you bury one underground, the walls & ceiling will bow inwards & even break. People have nonetheless tried it & there are photos online showing the aftermath.

>> No.975462

No, people only ever ask about them here but nobody ever goes through with it.

At least, they don't post about it. Presumed dead from the fumes of whatever was transported in the container before a company decided to sell it

>> No.975473
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975473

I'm going to need you to fill this out

>> No.975479

>>974660
wheres the ball warmers?

>> No.975483

>>975473
There needs to be a space on there for tool brand war

>> No.975487

>>975483
I made that fucker like 2 years ago when he still had a bunch of jackasses up in here trying to patent stupid shit. We could probably replace that with some tool master race bullshit.

>> No.975888
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975888

>>974665
everything is a meme
unless its a unique instance
but either every single instance is unique
or it is a derivation of a previous instance
it is all memes
or none of it is

>> No.975891
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975891

>>975444
>You can't bury shipping containers. They have no strength etcetera
bait status: taken

>> No.975944

>>974600
Why not just skip all the bullshit and go straight to install gahnu/arch

>> No.975952

>>974600
underrated post

>> No.976006

You also need to sand blast the thing and have it repainted in non toxic paint.

>> No.976018

>>975952
Is there any logical reason why you would fucking say that post is underrated? Has anybody expressed any kind of dissatisfaction or criticism at all against it? Are you delusional? Are you reading replies that are nonexistant? Maybe you come from communities with voting systems, but there is literally no way that you could know what other people think of that post you just replied to here. Maybe it's psychological. Maybe it's your own post you're replying to, like a 12 year old fucktard liking his own facebook posts thinking his swelling autism is going unnoticed. Maybe your self esteem depends on you tricking yourself into thinking someone out there thinks your post is worth something. Or maybe you are just a retard, the worst kind of retard, the one who thinks he's smart, the one who thinks he's the only one to have gotten the joke, to have understood the post. Well, guess what, faggot, that post is under no definition underrated so why don't you do the world a favor and go check out what the bottom of your toilet smells like?

>> No.976044

Now well I think a house is stupid, friend of mine is an engineer and he says he knows a few guys who have turned these things into little mini machine shops. Hooked up some heating and threw a bandsaw, metal lathe and few other things inside of it. They live out in the country and this way they don't have to worry about cluttering up their garage.

Anyone here think thats a semi decent idea?

not that I can afford a metal lathe but I wouldn't mind slowly turning one into a shop over the years.

>> No.976045

>>976018
underrated post

>> No.977466

>>974665
is that qt Caprice?

>> No.977514

>>976044
I've done this and love it. I joined two 40' High Cubes by welding (stick at the corner fittings, FCAW at the roof joint) and have power and light.

I put mine atop two 20-foot I-beams since they were free and I wanted the elevation, but since ISOs are supported by the corner fittings you can use creosoted railroad ties. I positioned everything single handed using a Wyeth-Scott comealong, chains, pipe sections as rollers, and various bottle jacks.

I could have rented a loaded but I was in no hurry.

I joined the roof by having a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" steel sheared into 2" strips then tacking and welding the full length so no reliance on sealant. I used a simple flux core feeder and .045" wire (which I'd gotten free with the feeder). Put puddle on container corner edge then flow it to the thinner 1/8'. Otherwise run .035" wire.

Do NOT use fucking chain store roof coating! Roofing contractors laugh at that shit and the white goop is a water trap! Industrial roof coating or Rustoleum red rusty metal primer works well with decent (knotted wire wheel on angle grinder) prep.

I've helped others set up shops in single containers. Mine isn't much to look at because I don't want windows, but do add a man door in a corner or end to avoid using the large end doors for routine travel. It's comfier.

3M 3M 5200 marine sealant is the spooge of the gods. No caulk or RTV comes close so don't even bother. Holesaws with some spray oil will cut nice round holes for your power from your pole. I got a separate service with both 110 and 220 single phase outlets on the pole and a breaker panel so I had immediate power. I later put a subpanel inside my adjacent container. Every step should enable the next.

My welders live inside and I have standard welder panel fittings to run cable QDs thru the wall so no stringing welding cables thru the doorway.

You want the High Cube for the height. A mill and lathe take up about a third of the container.

>> No.977519

You'll want another third for tool boxes and tooling. People forget that part.

One container is for my machine tools and the other is mostly hand tools and welding gear. You can check Sea Box or other websites for how industry rolls. I'm not spending that much but my shit works fine.

You can get deals on lathes and mills if you figure out beforehand how to move them. I got good and moved mine and a couple of my bros equipment. Most machine tools are tippy but if you make an outrigger dolly they need not tip. You can do that with basic tools. Google "moving a Bridgeport" for ideas. I've not seen my style outrigger dolly elsewhere so here it is: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/material-handling-and-rigging/moving-small-milling-machine-310749/#post2641882

Have fun. Hang on machinist forums. A container shop is worth it and so are machine tools. Now when I want a part I can fab it on the spot.

>> No.977525

>>976044
BTW my containers were 2400 each delivered. My bro with the Bradford got it for only 375 dollars because no one wanted to move it. He already had a phase converter which runs his Hardinge mill which was a grand. Small lathes will piss you off and containers solve the space problem of medium lathes nicely. My gunsmith bro doesn't have a container yet but we got that big bitch into his shop and he loves it.

>> No.979302

>>975444
>only really have any value for such endeavors if you happen to have a local cheap source of them that makes them cheaper than 'traditional' building methods

How cheap?

I live by the coast, and am surrounded by ports, shipyards, abandon military bases. Containers are pletiful and cheap, but how cheap are we talk? 40 foot for 1k 2k 3k?