/QTDDTOT/

[Anonymous No.959165]

Questions that don't deserve their own thread. Previous one is over 300.

I'm adding organization to the kitchen! Managed to squeeze three IKEA garbage sliders under the sink, but I redid the drains to fit them.

Any plumbers want to chew me out and tell me if I dun goofed? I'm in Ontario.

[Anonymous No.959167]

>>959165
Other view

[Anonymous No.959394]

I'm not a plumber but I don't see anything horribly wrong

[Anonymous No.959411]

>>959165

No garbage disposal?

[Anonymous No.959416]

>>959411
Not yet. I'm replacing the sink, counters, backsplash in a year or two as phase two of the reno.

Thinking about disposal for then, but it's dissuaded around here, and I don't mind the local compost collection.

[Anonymous No.959421]

I'm sharing the project I completed today, started yesterday.

[Anonymous No.959422]

>>959421
go on...

[Anonymous No.959423]

>>959421

[Anonymous No.959424]

>>959423
I added some angle bracing after this picture was taken. I'm going to add some half sides to keep any wind blown rain off the seat, etc.

Built entirely from recycled material that I had on hand.everything is treated except the 2x4s and the steel is 18 gauge galvanized and painted rib steel.

[Anonymous No.959425]

>>959424
well that outta do the trick. functional and no frills, i like that.

[Anonymous No.959446]

>>959165
Can't figure out why my desktop keeps randomly switching off. Memory check happens just fine, bios checks out fine, windows boots, then shit just turns off. No beeps, error messages, or squeeks or warnings, just off.

[Anonymous No.959448]

>>959425
You can see where the mower was in the first picture. Shed is only 12x16 and that floor space is precious!

[Anonymous No.959456]

>>959446
Only times that's happened to me were heat problems related to overclocking / fan failure of the CPU or GPU.

Check your fans and clock settings.

[Anonymous No.959458]

>>959456
And heat sink connections, thermal paste, etc. Perhaps something was jostled off.

[Anonymous No.959476]

>>959458
>>959456
good point , I'll pick some up in the morning. It worked fine before I moved so it makes sense that the heat sink might have detached in the truck.

[Anonymous No.959483]

>>959165
>Any plumbers want to chew me out and tell me if I dun goofed?
Yea you fucked up so ba-
>I'm in Ontario.
Never mind it meets code, you're good to go.
really though I have no clue, don't take me seriously.

[Anonymous No.959487]

>>959446
I had a monitor with bad capacitors that would shut off all the time, rebooting the computer seemed to fix the problem to the point I thought it was the videocard for a while.
Are you sure the computer is actually shutting off?

[Anonymous No.959498]

Is there an inexpensive way of getting some strings of LEDs to work off 110v (US outlet)?

I'd like to plug into an outlet, have a switch hidden on my corner desk, and have LED's double sided taped, stapled, or glued under and behind the desk. But I don't want to spend $200 on strips from china which some people reviewed as dangerous or just crappy.

[Anonymous No.959506]

>>959498
I used Ikea's lights for anti-glare/keyboard illumination, added a switch in my desk for them. They run off a transformer.

Not sure what you're trying to do, though.

[Anonymous No.959540]

>>959498
110v / 2.2v (example forward voltage) = 50.
So just use 50 leds.
In practice its not that simple so don't actually do this unless you know what you are doing

[Anonymous No.959578]

>>959411
>>959416
Don't. They're terrible.

[Anonymous No.959581]

>>959446
Only time I had that was when the volt regs on my 5970 were burnt to a crisp. I thought I'd burned up a cpu from troop much OC.

[Anonymous No.959643]

>>959487
Yes indeed, lights go out, fans cut off, screen goes all "no input". Could be a capacitor, but I'm hoping that the thermal paste will fix because not in love with the idea of buying a new mobo/cpu right now (especially since I just bought new power supply and vid card because I thought THAT was the problem.).

[Anonymous No.959655]

>>959643
go to BIOS, check temperatures?

Or just Speccy, if your computer stays on long enough.

[Anonymous No.959668]

Hey /diy/, what kind of wood should I be buying to replace the treads on a set of outdoor stairs that leads to a freshwater lake boat dock, also what kind of screws do I need?

[Anonymous No.959715]

>>959165
Test

[Anonymous No.959731]

Is it cheaper to build solar panel setups or is it easier to just buy a kit and whole panels

[Greene No.959768]

>>959668
>Hey /diy/, what kind of wood should I be buying to replace the treads on a set of outdoor stairs that leads to a freshwater lake boat dock, also what kind of screws do I need?

If it's price sensitive, pressure treated. If it's not, then composite decking. For screws, I use "decking screws". They have a Torx head and are powder coated to prevent rust stains.

Some asshole will tell you to just use nails. Tell him to step on one in bare feet, get a tetanus shot, and shoot himself.

[Anonymous No.959770]

I have a sharp GP2D02 IR Range sensor with a "Open Drain Operation" Input terminal with a maximum Vin of 3 volts. What can I read to understand what "open drain operation" means? I'm an electronics noob.

[Anonymous No.959774]

>>959770
>have a sharp GP2D02 IR Range sensor
... yes, I'm attempting to connect it to an arduino.

[Anonymous No.959775]

>>959731
Cheaper to build, assuming you know what you're doing and have a lot of spare time.

At the most /diy/ level you'll be soldering individual solar cells together to make your panels.

For every step you get someone else to do for you, you will pay money.

This is one of the few times that you can do it cheaper than one you buy from china... assuming your time is worthless.

Buying whole panels and /diy/ing your own setup is probably the best balance between cost/time for the average person.

Buying a kit you'll pay a premium and not get exactly what you want.

Paying someone else to do the whole thing you will pay through the nose.

[Anonymous No.959776]

>>959774
>>have a sharp GP2D02 IR Range sensor
>... yes, I'm attempting to connect it to an arduino.
Please disregard, I just tripped over a clue-stick.

[Anonymous No.959807]

>>959498
Grab a strip of LEDs from China. They generally come in two varieties - 3528 and 5050. Which one you choose is up to you. 5050 is much brighter and is painful to look at if you have clear view of the LEDs. Where you buy your strips doesn't really matter since they use standardized packages for LEDs, i.e. the 3528/5050 designation. The only real hazard here is that 3528 RGB strips use separate packages for each color while 5050 RGB strips have every color in every package. If you want to change colors, stay away from 3528 or it will look like shit.

Many strips will come with the option if controllers. These come in a few varieties as well. For single-color strips, it's usually an inline thing with brightness control. For RGB strips, there are other controllers, usually a white brick with a remote.

These white bricks are NOT all created equal. The MOSFETs in cheap ones are undersized and WILL blow. The best seller I've found is supernight on Amazon.

You can also forgo any type of control, but this is ill-advised since those strips at full brightness will basically blind anyone who catches a glimpse of an LED.

Once you've made your selections, grab a generic 12V wall wart of of amazon/ebay and hook it all up. Alternatively, some sellers will bundle these if you buy a strip and controller.

Side note: If you decide to go the RGB route, every single strip I've ever used has had the green and blue lines mislabeled. Test them by hooking up the supply and touching the leads to the relevant pads, or just take my word for it.

[Anonymous No.959821]

>>959165
Guys, help please. This is driving me crazy!
I need a good desktop lamp, something similar to pic related.
But I want something that has a long reaching adjustable arm(s)

Everything i see online or in stores is only about 26" max. height arm that does not adjust very well, or the wattage is too low.

Need something to light up my entire desktop area from above that doesn't take up alot of space on the desk or has to sit anywhere near the keyboard/mousepad area.

on ideal solution might be a 60 watt incandescent bulb hanging down from ceiling directly above where my keyboard sits. but I cant mount anything to the ceiling.

What ideas to get a bright light to shine down on my desktop from above? without taking up any space on the desktop ?

[Anonymous No.959829]

>>959668
How often do they come in contact with water?

Pressure treated wood coated in spar varnish might be enough.

For screws, stainless steel. You'll pay more, but they won't rust or deteriorate because of water. You're supposed to use stainless steel fasteners on a boat, for example.

[Anonymous No.959847]

>>959424
I finished building the chicken coop today.

[Anonymous No.959852]

>>959847
Added a couple doors for access/cleaning.

[Anonymous No.959854]

>>959852
One smaller than t'other

[Anonymous No.959855]

>>959854
Then I added two nesting boxes (three hens expected).

[Anonymous No.959857]

>>959855
I also cut the hole on the floor and added the walk way.

[Anonymous No.959858]

>>959857
Then I balanced it on a wheel barrel and rolled it around to the back of the shed and placed it behind the lawn mower cover.

[Anonymous No.959860]

>>959858
Add some wire to the bottom and called it a night.

[Anonymous No.959865]

>>959821
If you want it adjustable still maybe. I think I have this exact one. Probably is around 3 ft or longer takes a regular bulb. Came in my drafting desk.

Although the springs on the side have lost their tension and now sag but I've had this thing like 15 years

[Anonymous No.959876]

>>959821
These have been around for years homie. It clamps to the edge of your desk (if you have edges).

Search this phrase on Amazon for pic related.
Excelvan Swing Arm Table Lamp Holder With Metal Clamp

[Anonymous No.959885]

>>959458
Winnar!

Seriously I don't know why I hadn't tried that yet. At least I bought a pretty awesome 3d card to replace my 5yo one. All my games look silky smooth now.

Anyone know of a direct link for retrocade pi that puts everything on but the roms? When I went to replace my computer parts, there was a Pi 2b on the shelf and I mean... $32 was hard to pass up. At some point I want to put it into my X-arcade stick so that I can have a plug and play arcade. one instructible claims the pi mounts directly below the trackball as if they were made for each other.

[Anonymous No.959927]

>>959865
>around 3 ft or longer
that's about what i want.
most i have ever bought or seen like>>959876
are shorter, not very adjustable or they have low watt light output.
i was also thinking of something like a light on a boom like a photographer's kind but they're too expensive

[Anonymous No.959939]

>>959768
>If it's price sensitive, pressure treated. If it's not, then composite decking. For screws, I use "decking screws". They have a Torx head and are powder coated to prevent rust stains.

I'll check prices out, most likely going with pressure treated, and i'll check out torx decking screws.
>Some asshole will tell you to just use nails. Tell him to step on one in bare feet, get a tetanus shot, and shoot himself.
Lol will do

>>959829
>How often do they come in contact with water?
Only when it rains, these stairs are at the beginning of the stairs, away from the water so they never get wet from the lake water.
>Pressure treated wood coated in spar varnish might be enough.
I'll check it out.
>For screws, stainless steel. You'll pay more, but they won't rust or deteriorate because of water. You're supposed to use stainless steel fasteners on a boat, for example.
I understand, any advantage over the decking screws that the other anon I quoted mentioned?

Thanks for the replies, I've never done this kind of work before and it's important to me that these come out correct.

My stepsons' father passed away and left them a nice little piece of property on a lake. Getting the place fixed up is very important to both of them, especially my younger stepson. They're having a hard time dealing with his passing and working on getting the property fixed up is making them both feel like they're honoring their father.

[Anonymous No.959944]

I want some 23x40 lengths of wood to make a shelf out of a closet but have no idea what the best method of going out to a store and getting them would be, I don't have a jigsaw or anything so it would be sort of difficult to cut myself. Suggestions?

[Anonymous No.959946]

>>959165
assuming you never put anything solid down there you'll be fine. Especially since you mentioned it's only temporary. Also double check everything is completely bone dry. Any leakage at all and you'll have mold.

[Anonymous No.959949]

>>959424
If you're feeling cheap, you could do alot with a tarp and a staple gun.

[Anonymous No.960001]

>>959946
>never put anything solid down
Isn't this kind of kitchen drainage 101?

I put a good amount of ABS glue, waited for it to dry. I've done plumbing before, so that part is good. I just wanted to know if my pipe design is kosher.

>>959885
Yay! Good that it was a fairly simple fix.

[Anonymous No.960038]

My mains tap is leaking from the part coloured red in this picture I got off google.

From what I understand this means the packing has had it. How do I go about replacing this on a mains tap?

[Anonymous No.960041]

>>960038
If that's your water meter you probably have to call the water company.

[Anonymous No.960047]

>>960041
>We'll repair leaks in the blue sections. You're responsible for maintaining the orange sections.
The leak does not actually tick over my water meter so I am not getting charged for it but it is turning the area of the garden next to it into a swamp so I want to fix it anyway.

[Anonymous No.960052]

>>960047
If the leak is on the mains side of your mains tap then you won't be able to turn off the water in order to fix it...

[Anonymous No.960059]

>>960047
>30 cm
that seems awfully small.

[Anonymous No.960072]

I've got a powered amp in my car that has these screw terminals for power connections. The ground terminal got ripped off due to the amp being unsecured, and I can't repair it. I took the panel off the back, and the wires seem to be held in with silicone, which removes the possibility of doing a nice clean repair. What do you guys suggest I do?

[Anonymous No.960090]

Is there any reason it would be a bad idea to paint a child's playset (20 year old pressure-treated lumber) with patio paint? Other than it taking a long time. Should I opt for staining instead?

[Anonymous No.960129]

>>959939
I just helped re deck my dad's pier. Use pressure treated, 2 inch lumber. Those torx deck screws are fine. As long as they are rated to be used in pressure treated they won't corrode before the wood does.

FYI pressure treated WILL rust out nails/screws not designed to be used with treated lumber.

[Anonymous No.960130]

>>959939
Oh, forget the spar vanish. If you want to protect it you can use any stain/finish and it will help prevent splintering. It's not necessary to prevent rot.

[Anonymous No.960131]

>>959949
I got the steel and lumber for free though...

[Anonymous No.960151]

>>960129
>I just helped re deck my dad's pier. Use pressure treated, 2 inch lumber. Those torx deck screws are fine. As long as they are rated to be used in pressure treated they won't corrode before the wood does.
>FYI pressure treated WILL rust out nails/screws not designed to be used with treated lumber.
Thanks! I spent some time this morning reading about galvanized vs polymer screws. Since polymer seems to be the more readily available choice with the most options that looks like what i'll be using.

>>960130
Good to know, I think I may skip the spar varnish then.

After watching several videos about deck stair repair i'm starting to worry about what I might find when I remove the treads. I watched a bunch of videos about how to properly cut stringers so i'm confident that I can get those cut properly if needed.

[Anonymous No.960163]

Quick question: Since I was able to fit a square peg in a round hole, the fan connector on my ATX 2.0 PC power supply is dead.

Well, not exactly dead, it supplies 5 mA at 12VDC. Which isn't good enough to make the PSU fan turn over.

So I wired the PSU fan externally, using the +12V yellow line and such. It spins like a greased Scotsman on methamphetamine, and the current going through is 2.1 amps... Which I think is too much for a 14cm fan.

What do I do? What happens to a BLDC fan if it is supplied with 2.1A? Will it melt eventually, prematurely? Will the bearings run out quickly?

[Anonymous No.960169]

>>960163
The amperage is dependent on the fans specs. Leave some info like brand or model number of the fan. You can buy fans that draw 4amps, when you want the case air to be replaced ever 2 seconds, for example.

Sometimes the max power or amperage will be on the label too.

[Anonymous No.960304]

>>960090
I don't see anything wrong with it, though a stain will probably last longer. You can get stain in different colors (don't know if that's what you mean by "patio paint"). My parents stained their deck a very light gray and it's much cooler on bare feet in the summer now.

[Anonymous No.960342]

My mouse (G500) is doubleclicking. The problem is that the tiny brass leaf spring in the left mouse button is tired and keeps bending over.
I've fixed it a few times by bending it back into the correct shape, but I'm wondering if I can temper it so that it lasts longer.

The idea I currently have is to heat it near red hot with a blow torch, and submerge it in a cup of water. I don't want to break it, as this is my only good mouse.

tl;dr: Can I temper a tiny-ass brass leaf spring by heating and rapid cooling?

[Anonymous No.960349]

Where can I find a large LCD display like pic related? I'm trying to make a sunshine alarm clock and would like an easy-to-read display for the time, and maybe the date. Day and temperature are not needed.

[Anonymous No.960359]

>>960342
your best bet is just replacing the whole button assembly.
the switches are pretty cheap and easy to replace

[Anonymous No.960398]

Would buying UV resistant film from Amazon be dumb? I want to get protective film, but spending 100+ dollars from a specialty site for a single window seems pointless. Can I trust the cheaper brands on Amazon to do anything at all for my room? I understand the quality is lesser but the question is if they do anything at all or I'd be wasting money. Is there knowledge of scamming I'm not aware of? Insight would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.960405]

I ordered 10 each of red, blue, orange/yellow, white and green 5mm 4 pin "piranha" LED's off eBay and I'm rather disappointed in the light output of the orange/yellow and red. Running those at a higher current (30-40mA instead of 20mA) gives a light output closer to that of the blue and green but I'm not comfortable with doing that for most of their life. Is there a way to order LED's with more light output or do I just have to live with running them at a higher current? I bought these chinese ones just for lulz, at $0.99 for 10 I could care less if they an hero. Once I get everything working I plan to buy 100 LED's of each color from a reputable supplier so I'm cautious to run them a a higher current. Are my fears unfounded? More of CS than EE honestly so I'm not too sure about myself.

Tl;dr
>LED output sucks at rated current
>what do, double current or try different LED's

[Anonymous No.960409]

>>960342
RE:
I realised that the mouse was doubleclicking while the button was depressed.
I washed the assembly with Isopropyl and sanded the contacts. Seems to have fixed the issue.

[Anonymous No.960446]

>>959165
I need some form of plastic sheet, something that maybe I can recycle off of something. that's flexible but hard enough that even have sitting on it for hours will pop back into its shape, I'm using it to make a wallet out of rabbit hide, but I don't wanna drop some serious cash on some heavy leather, and Craigslist seems to be lacking any "free" real leather couches.. so I think if I just sew a piece of plastic between the leather and fabric then I should be good to go. having a huge brain fart on to actually use.. maybe someone can come up with an idea.

I thought a peanut butter jar lid of sorts, but its pretty brittle. and broke when I was trying to cut it with shears.

>>960398
the AVE youtube channel did some testing [I think it was him..] on expensive sunglasses, and dollar store sunglasses. all of them cut out the same amount of harmful rays, and some of the cheaper ones more just because it was a darker tint. so I'd say buying what you want would be just fine and would work for what you intend.

>>960349
Maybe walgreens? I shit you not, I think I've bought any alarm clock I've ever needed from walgreens for some weird reason.

[Anonymous No.960450]

>>960446
I'm just looking to get the LCD screen only, without the alarm.

[Anonymous No.960508]

>>960446
Maybe these guys can help you with the plastics?
>>>959277

[Anonymous No.960514]

>>960450
STN LCD Screen maybe? are you gonna program it yourself?. if so a STN LCD would work for you..

>>960508
I'll give it a read.

[Anonymous No.960538]

>>960052
Well I can still close the valve and then unscrew the gland nut. I figured there might be some sort of packing or washer that would be able to go in that way?

[Anonymous No.960540]

>>960398
The differences would most likely be in glare resistance and how long it stays clean/how easy it is to get clean again.

[Anonymous No.960545]

>>959944
...buy a saw, use it to cut your lumber to size? Purchasing a hand saw will be cheaper than having the lumber yard cut your boards to length for you. Also, are you saying you want your shelf to be 23 inches by 40 inches? Man, 23 inch width, that's a tall order. Probably be cheaper to get some 2x12 and double up on it to get your shelf width.

[Anonymous No.960548]

>>960072
Visit http://www.dynaloy.com/products/silicone-solvents-and-removers and see if that's the route you'd like to go down.

[Anonymous No.960563]

>>959643
I didnt even remember making that post, yea it sounds like its the computer. Did you build this yourself? It might not have enough power to run. How many watts is your power supply?
If this is a premade computer is the new powersupply the same wattage?
It could be a number of things.
Overheat protection like you said,
I have a computer that if I have the second stick of ram in it I cant even get windows to boot. I remove the ram and everything works fine.
My other computer has bad smoothing caps on the pci slots, wont even turn on with a pci card in it.
Have you tried another operating system? ruled out viruses?

[Anonymous No.960616]

Why aren't phones and anything else that sits on low power for an extremely long time given tiny photoelectric generators that turn background infrared into electricity?

[Anonymous No.960633]

>>960616
because those kinds of devices have batteries in the 1000-4000 mah range.
It would take weeks to charge the phone with it powered off, unless the entire surface was covered in those cells, but even then the phone would have to be face down because the screen would take up to front surface.

Its much more efficient to have a solar cell charging station.

[Anonymous No.960638]

>>960633
Couldn't it be inside the phone though?
A series of very narrowly spaced plates would be at room temperature so they'd give off heat, but they could also generate power with each other's heat.
And I'd imagine that the thinner and more numerous the plates were, the more efficiently you could turn heat into energy.

[Anonymous No.960690]

Got an issue with dust at home. Just cleaning doesn't seem to do anything unless I go through the whole place every other day.
So either I'm retarded at cleaning or I need a better solution than vacuum + damp cloth.

Was thinking of making pic related, but filters cost like 50 a piece here.
Anyone got suggestions?

[Anonymous No.960703]

>>960690
bumping, have the same problem

[Anonymous No.960722]

>>960398
Can't help you but I just wanted to say that's a cool image.
Any idea who the artist is?

[Anonymous No.960725]

>>960690
Get a kit like these, they are proper effective and will last longer, also washable

I tried making the box fan, it won't have enough air flow because it cannot handle pressure

The kit is designed to do exactly this type of job so it just werks perfectly, huge decrease in dust in my room

[Anonymous No.960727]

>>960725
Forgot to add, they are on ebay etc, google "inline fan filter kits"

[Anonymous No.960753]

>>960725
>>960727
>Hydroponics
Don't think they're for dust.

[Anonymous No.960760]

>>960753
They are for smell primarily but they also collect dust effectively

[Anonymous No.960847]

Do these things exist, what are they called and where2buy? Sorry for the shitty pic but I'm on my phone so that's all I can do.

Like a small... box. With a small, about a millimeter in diameter pole sticking out of it. When a current is applied it sucks the stick inside it. And when a current is applied again it protrudes out again. No middle ground, just out state and in state.

I mean technically I could build a mechanical contraption that takes input from a stepper motor and a gear or something but I want to know of there's an easy way out.

[Anonymous No.960927]

>>960059
A foot clearance is quite a bit for a water meter. Meters around here have like 6" on either side, a valve, and a meter.

[Anonymous No.960930]

Made a cutting board a while back.

[Anonymous No.960932]

>>960930
Just got around to sanding it down today. Think it'll come out nicely in the end.

[Anonymous No.960949]

>>960847
solenoid

[Anonymous No.960995]

A bathroom faucet keeps leaking, but only when I'm not looking.

When I clean up the water puddle and turn on the faucet, it won't leak.

But, when I come back after a while, there a puddle.

There no leak under the faucet and sink.

How do I trace/fix this leak?

[Anonymous No.961003]

>>960995
Condensation?

[Anonymous No.961006]

>>961003
Too much water for it to be condensation.

[Anonymous No.961014]

Looking to fix some cracks on some old walls. First time doing it so I was looking for pointers. Is it as easy as it looks or nah?

Basic understanding is that you open up the crack a little bit so the adhesion can do it's job better.

Then apply apply some joint tape over the crack.

Then spread some joint compound over the crack and tape. Pic Related.

Wait for it to dry (I've never been told how long it takes to dry).

Apply second coat, spread out a little more. Wait to dry. (Around an hour the second time)

Apply third coat. Wait to dry (around an hour for the third time)

Sand it down with a sanding block. Clean up and basically ready for paint.

Am I on the ball? Anything I need to keep in mind? Is there a better way?

[Anonymous No.961015]

I just installed a new hob tube swivel tap in my kitchen. When I turn it on there is some slight leaking from the area I marked in green. When it is turned up there is a somewhat rapid procession of drops.

It is not as bad as the last tap which was on there which sprayed everywhere (why it got replaced) but still not something I would expect from a brand new tap just out of the packaging.

Something I messed up in the installation that I need to check or what?

[Anonymous No.961023]

>>961014
Less is better. Its cleaner to add more than to sand off a ton. Give a light sand or scrape between coats to take off any ridges or bumps, it will help the next coat come out better.
Drying might take a few hours, if you have a fan get some air moving and it will help.

Experience: General Contractor, I do a lot of repair and new construction.

[Anonymous No.961026]

>>960932
Don't forget to seal it with food-grade non-toxic sealant.

[Anonymous No.961027]

>>961015
yes

[Anonymous No.961029]

>>961027
Such as what?

[Anonymous No.961035]

>>960930
>Made a cutting board a while back.

that's not a cutting board nigger, it's just a board. cutting boards use bits of wood with the grain up so it wont dull your knives. as for the sealant, you want mineral oil (which is actually made from crude oil, not some vegetable).

[Anonymous No.961043]

>>961035
Not that guy but my cutting boards don't have the grain up. They look like this.

[Anonymous No.961052]

>>961023
Cheers mate, we'll see how he go.

[Anonymous No.961053]

>>961043

that's made from some kind of bamboo pipe somehow shaped into a board, so grain is all over the place.

[Anonymous No.961058]

>>960930
>>961035
>>961043
>>961053
some cutting boards have a the grain perpendicular to the knife, parallel to the surface

others have the grain the opposite way, usually made out of smaller chunks of wood glued together

some like the latter because it causes less ware on your knives when you cut on it, imagine slicing your hand vertically through a broom with the bristles up as opposed to slicing along the side of the broom bristles

the latter also soaks up a lot more oil and requires a bit more maintenance to keep food safe but not much

[Anonymous No.961081]

I am a blacksmith and I am curious as to how I sell my stuff to people. I doubt this is the right board and I should probably take it to /biz/, but I fondly remember the smithing threads here that are pretty rare now, and I remember some people selling their stuff.

I mostly make historical stuff for my own interest and use (arrowheads and the like) and I'm curious if I could sell them to reenactors, and how I would even start doing so. I don't know any and I don't know where they hang out, so I'm a bit behind on that.

Do I make some sort of social media place and just spam it on reenacting fora? I don't know business.

[Anonymous No.961087]

>>961081
Flee markets and buying booths at craft fairs?
Local people sell shit here at "craft faits" whenever there is a halfway big happens. Like the annual flea market, or the pork fest, or the Carnival or any other local events.

I see people selling soap and other shit like jewelry or custom wooden signs. Cant be too expensive

[Anonymous No.961091]

>>961087
>Flee markets and buying booths at craft fairs?

really, are we back in 1850? well, around here it's 2016, and we have something called the Internet, which lets buyers and sellers meet irrespective of location and schedule. anyone interested in <thing> just types <thing> into google, and instant matches are found, then money can be exchanged, and flying machines (yes, machines that fly) carry the <thing> anywhere on the globe. and we have etsy, if you wanna find things you didnt even knew you needed.

[Anonymous No.961104]

>>961026
Yeah I use mineral oil on all my boards.

>>961035
I've used plenty of boards with the grain just how it is. Any high quality kitchen knife well hold an edge on them.

The wood is maple from a locker room bench that I ripped the round edges off, then planned the finish off, and jointed the sawn edges. I worked it with a belt sander yesterday and I'll bee finishing sanding it by hand.

[Anonymous No.961121]

>>961104
>The wood is maple from a locker room bench

the taste of sweaty balls will surely enhance the appeal of any food prepared on your board.

[Anonymous No.961256]

>>961121
Brand new bench that had never been used, hahaha.

[Anonymous No.961325]

>>960405
Anyone? Is this more of an /ohm/ question?

[Anonymous No.961406]

Does /diy/ think this'll make a good workshop? No major power tools, I just need space for my bench power buffer, doing some jigsawing and dremeling, painting, soldering, assembling, etc.

I have limited moneyfunds and I'm trying to start a business without squandering it all ':|

It's 10'x14' and 10' high at the ridge. there's plenty of room to build a loft for storage or such. I would have to insulate it and junk. Pros/cons? All I can think is I'd need to install a vent maybe

>$2700

[Anonymous No.961433]

>>961406
You will spend more buying a little turdshack like than they it would cost to build a better one yourself.

[Anonymous No.961440]

>>961406
nice cuckshead. does your wife make you play videgames in there while she rides her bull?

[Anonymous No.961441]

>>961433
i don't think i can build one from scratch, i don't have the know-how. i also don't have the power tools needed. i think it would end-up cost me more if i attempted it myself. i'll look into it though

[Anonymous No.961445]

>>961440
i'm not married

[Anonymous No.961446]

>>961441
Have a hammer and a saw? Can you read instructions? Then you can build it. Either buy some instructions at the local lumber yard or find some free ones online. They should have a materials list in them. Take it to a local lumber yard and ask them what all that shit will cost. Get quotes from a few different places.

Also remember delivery fees. Sometimes places will deliver for free, sometimes you have to pay an arm and a leg. If you have access to a pickup its a whole lot cheaper to get some lumber back home than it is a pre-built shed.

That said, my buddy bought a surplus army GP Medium tent as his first workshop and used that for years before building a shed.

[Anonymous No.961458]

>>961446
the tent idear is pretty good actually, but i'm renting property and i'm allowed to put a shed up if it looks nice on the property. a drab tent would def be out of the question. plus the climate here sucks horsetits and tent won't be good for much of the year. hmm

[Anonymous No.961461]

I'm replacing my shitty builder furnace.

Anyone in HVAC have an opinion on Lennox furnaces? I hear Carrier is good, but they're moving to Mexico, and I want to know my options.

Flameo, based hotmen.

[Anonymous No.961469]

>>961458
>>961441
>>961406

I've actually spent most of today thinking about the various methods of building sheds. Mostly so I can practice building from the ground up on a very tiny structure.

I don't think it would cost you more to do it yourself, but you might have to know a few things. You would need power but a non-permanent foundation because you rent, I assume. Or you'll african-engineer an extension cord for power, IDK.

Keep us informed, ask questions if you have them. I'm curious.

[Anonymous No.961491]

What is the most cost effective way to cut rock out of a vertical cliff wall?

[Anonymous No.961493]

>>961491
chinaman

[Anonymous No.961728]

I'll just usw this thread to show my last two works since I also have a question.
I made these two pipes recently but I'm still searching for a gold finish on the wood. Right now I just used some oil.
The pipe can get quite hot so I'm not sure in what to usw here.

[Anonymous No.961729]

Second pipe without any form of finish.

[Anonymous No.961743]

I'm redoing an old room in my house and looking to repaint the walls. There's some spots that have acrylic hobby paint, and some with I'm assuming regular wall paint. Would painting directly over both be a problem? The walls are popcorned too.

[Anonymous No.961768]

>>961743
If you have to ask, you probably should use a decent primer. Especially with different colours of different types from different times on the same continuous surface.

Also, if you have to do any drywall repair, now is the time. Hell, if you hate the texture, you might even want to get really thin drywall and go over the whole damned room to make it smooth.

But you probably just want to paint. So use a good tinted primer to save on finish paint and headaches in the future.

[Anonymous No.961773]

>>961406
I built a 12x16 on a hill with 2x10 floor joists and wrapped in vinyl for less than that. Got the steel roof for free though.

You can build a bigger one for much less and while you might not have windows, etc you'll have the space.

[Anonymous No.961778]

>>961053
They cut it into strips and flatten it out. The grain is all running the same direction and it's all edge grain, not end grain. End grain is far more common in butcher blocks compared to edge grain.

[Anonymous No.961785]

>>961773
i'm looking into it! i need a building permit if it's over 120sq ft so I'm prolly gonna try to avoid all that and go smaller. But it has to look decent too to be allowed on the property. It might easier for me to just rent an old dump somewhere. I live in a pretty rural area and there's a dilapidated ol' gas station a couple miles away. They might only want a couple hundred bucks a month idunno

[Anonymous No.961787]

Next weekend I'm going to begin replacing all the plumbing in my home. I have a fair amount of experience in replacing fixtures/pipes etc, but I can't find the information I'm looking for on vents. My house is approx. 1100 sq. ft and 90% of the plumbing is on the western corner of the house, along with the only vent in the house. It seemed to work the last 60 years so this is probably a stupid question, but is it necessary to add another vent at the other end of the house for the kitchen sink and possibly a dishwasher? There will be a total of 5 (or six if I decide to get a dishwasher) fixtures once everything is in.

My instincts are telling me I don't need another but I want to make sure before I put all the new plumbing in.

[Anonymous No.961801]

>>961787
The real answer is probably "check your jurisdiction", but in my house, there is a separate, vented stack for a powder room.

It may have been code then, it may have been Jerry-rigged from the beginning. We need more info, though. Where are you?

[Anonymous No.961803]

>>961801
Michigan. I haven't checked any codes yet, I'll have to call the city today because the website doesn't seem to have anything of use on it. The vent itself seems legit, it ties in right past the sink, before the toilet, and goes straight up through the roof. The house was in severe disrepair when I bought it last year in May so I never got to test any fixtures but the toilet.

[Anonymous No.961831]

>>961493
Where can I get one?

[Anonymous No.961836]

>>961831
about 1 in every 6 people is one. apply yourself anon

[Anonymous No.961873]

>>961836
Very well.

What netting is best for capturing humans? I would like it to be able to last for at least 12 uses to up my chances of capturing this chinaman.

[Anonymous No.961888]

Any idea what I can shove into this hole to stop my chair from leaning back? There must've been something there originally but it was long gone when I got the chair.

[Anonymous No.961897]

I'm about to make my own closet storage, I've looked into pre-made closet solutions and their either too big, or laughably small. I do however have a fairly small closet..

5 1/2 feet tall (for the room I'm working with), 38 inches wide and 23 inches deep, I'm gonna explain my idea and somebody please tell me if its retarded.

Gonna cut some plywood into lengths that will fit my closet perfectly, then get some smaller lengths of wood, attach them to the insides of the closet and rest plywood on that foundation, I feel this should be a fairly normal installation but can't find a single guide on it.

drew a quick overhead of my idea.. am I missing anything?

[Anonymous No.961903]

My house was built in the early 90s. The roof is shit. I need to replace the roof before I can sell it.

What can I read that will teach me how to replace a roof?

[Anonymous No.961908]

>>961888
A metal rod.

[Anonymous No.961913]

>>961903
>What can I read that will teach me how to replace a roof?

Probably nothing if you haven't any experience. The roof is the most important part of your house. It keeps the fucking rain out. It takes abuse from the elements.

If you're asking about a website or book you can read and become a professional roofer then I think you'll fail miserably and have to call out a pro to do it right.

Sure, it can be done. Shit, I have tons of experience in all kinds shit and would still call a pro when I need a new roof. Do you have that nifty conveyor to get the metric shit ton of shingles up there? What about all the ply and paper? Ever walked around on a roof carrying a 4x8 of plywood and a belt full of tools and nails? There's a good chance you'll kill yourself.

[Anonymous No.961936]

>>961888
A bolt, two washers, and a locking nut.

[Anonymous No.961962]

>>961897
the question is why.
what is wrong with the walls?
do you want to hide things in them?

[Anonymous No.961968]

>>961962
It's an existing closet. I really just want to be able to get more storage use out of it than just throwing my current dresser in it.

[Anonymous No.961986]

>>959446
I'd check the power suppy. At my work there was a PC that acted a bit like that. Would just shut down, run like a champ for a week, turned out if the power supply warmed up in the slightest it would drop the voltages.

[Anonymous No.961999]

>>960038
Tighten the nut under your red line til the leak stops. If it doesn't stop or won't turn you will have to rebuild or replace

[Anonymous No.962000]

I bought a broken clock from my local Good Will.

Is it safe for me to take a screwdriver and just start taking things apart? I'm legit worried that some coil is going to jump out and stab me if I don't do this properly

[Anonymous No.962061]

>>961908
>>961936
nah, the hole that stops the chair is the outer-most hole (the non-circular hole) so a metal rod/bolt will just sit in their and the chair will continue to lean back

[Anonymous No.962075]

What are some good <$100 thermostats that runs off the common wire power?

My current thermostat (pic related) runs off AAA batteries.

The batteries have to be changed every three months, and it loses settings every time I change the batteries.

I've been looking at some thermostats on Amazon, and it seems like almost all of them that aren't $200+ Wi-Fi thermostats run off of batteries, not common wire.

[Anonymous No.962080]

>>959165
Ottawa?

[Anonymous No.962082]

>>962075
Wire in a AC-DC converter.

[Anonymous No.962088]

>>962080
burbs of Toronto.

[Anonymous No.962093]

>>961999
That is what I did before but it started leaking again.

[Anonymous No.962095]

>>962075
Couldn't tell ya. I bought into the Nest meme when it was $50 off and I love it. Wired it directly to the solenoid on my humidifier (bypassing dumb sensors), so it turns it on instantly with the heat and keeps it nice, and I can actually be bothered to program it because when the fucker doesn't program itself to my liking, I can do it from my cozy bed while fapping with the other hand.

I only don't like the eco-brownie points it shoves on me at the end of the month, but I can ignore that.

But yeah, what >>962082 said.

[Anonymous No.962098]

>>961888
Throw more washers into it, under the first metal bit. Tighten bolt with a big ratchet.

[Anonymous No.962100]

>>961903
Angie's list. Call a pro and they'll have it done in a day. You'll get every penny you spend back in the sale. It'll look like a million bucks compared to someone without any experience, too. DIY your next roof when you're not about to sell it and that way if it looks like shit you won't have to drop the price.

[Anonymous No.962101]

>>962000
Unless you're just taking it apart to fiddle I'd send it to a clock maker. If you just want to fiddle there should be some springs near the ratchets with preload, but I believe most of it is pins and gears.

[Anonymous No.962103]

>>962100
I second this. A new roof pays dividends in a sale, and if you have decent negotiating skills, it can be more cost-effective. I would get at least three quotes and put on dat poker face. Don't tell them you're selling. You have all the time in the world. Roofers are master swindlers.

DIY roofing is for sheds, ex-pros, and people who have too much time on their hands.

[Anonymous No.962105]

>>961785
120 ft and up requires a permit?!?! Holy shit dude, I can build up to 250 single story no permit. If it's not visible from the road and you're diligent then just build it. The worst that can happen is they stop you and make you get a permit. I'd go 12x12, standard size lumber= little waste, and it's not so big that it'll stick out while under construction.

[Anonymous No.962108]

>>962103
>>961903
Oh, and don't get a handyman service or part-timer to do it. Get a roofing company with lots of workers and stock, and just negotiate with them.

Had a neighbour learn the hard way cheaping out when trying to sell the house. The idiot handyman she hired did it himself because his go-to roofing guys jumped ship to a real company. Dragged out the timeline to weeks, and racked up the costs along with it. Eventually, she fired him and paid full price with no warranty for a real roofer to finish the job.

Don't be her.

[Anonymous No.962109]

>>961787
Yes. You should have some sort of vent at every drain. They make something called a redi-vent or along those lines. My kitchen sink has one and the vent is in the cabinet, it's basically a check valve that allows air in to vent, but keeps sewer gases out, very handy and doesn't require penetrating the roof.

[Anonymous No.962112]

>>962109
These are called "cheater vents" and are viewed as a last resort by most plumbing codes (difficult renovations, kitchen islands). Never bury them in walls, have them in a cabinet or unfinished space.

If it's not being inspected and you don't want to extend the stack up to the roof, get one. If your walls are open, though, you may want to just vent that other stack through the roof.

[Anonymous No.962222]

what can you do with a microsoft kinect? is it worth it to buy it on it's own?

[Anonymous No.962234]

>>959446
Had this problem, it was my case shorting the reset button (Cm haf x)

[Anonymous No.962262]

How to quickly reset a leadscrew mechanism without using a split nut?
I intend to operate the screw by hand cranking it. The nut would move from point A to point B under load and then return to A without any load.
How do I do that without hand cranking it backwards and without a split nut?
Is that even possible?
I was thinking a spiral spring, but we're talking 30-60 turns and I don't have any idea how big a spring I'd need. And I'd have to fight against its torque when the nut is under load, which isn't ideal.
Any hint?

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962273]

looking to make or buy a decent spraycan trigger so I can get more even coatings, and be a little easier on badly worn out joints.
the stuff I'm spraying is mounted and then moved once dried and cured, so two handed operation is fine, a palm trigger might be ideal.
doesn't need to be very adjustable, or pretty, just needs to work with the one can, and be able to be switched out for a full can once that cans empty.
it'll be used mostly in an area with not much elbow room but plenty enough ventilation during spraying, so length should be a consideration, maybe even some sort of weird bullpup design could be beneficial.
have a vague idea of what I'm doing, just want to see if anyone has better ideas.


>>961873
be sure to use a fine mesh, chinamen are small and you don't want them to get away.

[Anonymous No.962278]

>>962109
Isn't that considered a wet vent? I'd rather do things properly but thanks.
>>962112
From what I can gather, I really only need one more for the kitchen, as all the other fixtures are within feet of the existing vent and it's pretty large (I'd guess 3"), is this correct?

After looking at my drain pipes again today I found an S trap with one of pic related screwed in at the top. Is this one of those cheater vents? And if so is it recommended to remove it or will it be fine?

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962280]

>>962278
yes that is a cheater vent
all a cheater vent actually does is prevent the glug glug glug glug and vibrations associated with it, theres a rubber diaphragm inside it, like sucking on a balloon, it doesnt keep out any sewer gas or anything like people mentioned previously in thread, that's what the trap does, though I guess you could have issues from the trap vibrating and letting in a bit if you didnt have the stack or cheater on it, while the stack actually lets gas escape while providing the same function.
don't remove it unless you're planning to put it to a stack, if its open then you're just dumb because you'll bypass the trap
generally I wouldnt recommend removing a cheater vent, they're usually put on because of difficulties connecting to a stack on a minor drain.
if this is on a major drain like your kitchen i'd recommend looking to see if you'd be able to hook it up properly to the vent stack.
you could consider modifying the cheater a bit though depending on how it was installed, if its on a really short pipe, its better to have it a bit higher.

theres also a couple different types, some arent code anymore, some are, it depends.

[Anonymous No.962287]

>>962280
>doesnt keep out any sewer gas
You're dead wrong here. Yes it does. A vent stack is placed AFTER the trap to alleviate the vacuum from draining water that can do things like suck the water out of a toilet bowl if not vented properly. Without the vent the draining water creates the same effect as a bell siphon in an aquaponics system, (a vacuum) which is why the vent is placed AFTER the trap and there is nothing between it and the septic tank/sewer. Hell, if there was a trap between the vent and the septic system there'd be NO NEED to run vents outside. If the cheater vent didn't keep sewer gases out then your house would be filled with them.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962290]

>>962287
I said a cheater doesnt
a vent does
a cheater does not

[Anonymous No.962297]

>>962278
>>962280
>>962287
>>962290
>they're usually put on because of difficulties connecting to a stack on a minor drain.

It is a minor drain imo, as it's the only fixture on that entire side of the house so that does make sense. There's pretty much nowhere to tie a new vent in, the drain goes through the basement right under the middle of the kitchen, then through the middle of the living room all the way to the back of the house so idk what to do.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962299]

>>962297
I'd just keep it as it is then since you've had no issues with it.

[Anonymous No.962301]

>>962299
I haven't gotten to test any fixtures but the toilet so idk if there's any issues with it yet. Is there a way to test it before I put all the new shit in?

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962303]

>>962301

if its still hooked up try dumping a bucket of water in the sink and see how fast it drains, you'll hear a weird sound, thats the cheater, if you hear something that sounds like a vibrating pipe, check the cheaters rubber to see if it isnt old and crusty as the hills or something.
the reason you try to elevate the cheater is to keep it away from the water, the water doesnt typically damage it but calcium and stuff thats in the water can cause a simple mechanical failure by 'getting shit in the rim'.

[Anonymous No.962304]

>>962303
It's just exposed pvc at this point but I can figure out a funnel or something. The cheater is well below where the new p-trap will go but it's connected to another s-trap or whatever it's called, is that ok? I doubt there's any way for water to get up into it.

I'll try to get a pic if that helps.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962307]

>>962304
I think you'll probably get vibration from the second S trap existing, why is there a second S trap?

did the guy who did it last time run out of fittings or something? you might as well do it properly
probably a good idea to get some pics, plumbing in older places can be really strange.

[Anonymous No.962311]

>>962290
And I'm telling you that you're dead wrong. A cheater vent DOES keep sewer gases out and allows air in to prevent the vacuum in a drain. It's functions similar to the vents that you exhale through on a gas mask, they only allow air to flow one direction. The cheater vent is NOT like a stack in that it doesn't allow sewer gases to vent to the atmosphere. The trap keeps gases from coming through the drain, not the cheater vent. The cheater has to do it on its own.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962314]

>>962311
I'm pretty sure this is just a simple misunderstanding with wording and you're having a shit fit about it.

[Anonymous No.962315]

>>962304
You want to plumb it something like the right, with the cheater (in lieu of the stack) higher than the P trap. You won't get vibrating pipe or siphon out the toilet bowl this way.

[Anonymous No.962316]

>>962314
>it doesnt keep out any sewer gas or anything like people mentioned previously in thread, that's what the trap does

Your previous post says otherwise.

This explains how a good "cheater vent" works.
http://www.studor.net/redi-vent

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962318]

>>962316
its purpose is to prevent vibration
the purpose of the water in a trap is to provide a barrier
I even mentioned what the vibration can do to the trap
if you have no trap and have a cheater vent good luck to you my friend.

[Anonymous No.962323]

>>962318
I'm not denying the trap provides the barrier, but the vent does as well. The vent may prevent vibration, but it is there to let air into the pipes.

From studor's website:
The Redi-Vent opens and takes in fresh air when a negative pressure (suction) occurs from a fixture discharging into a plumbing system. This equalises the pressure within the drainage system and protects the trap seal or bottle trap. When the flow stops, the Redi-Vent closes by gravity, preventing the circulation of any bad bathroom and drain smells.

[Anonymous No.962328]

>>962318
The vent's primary purpose is to prevent your pipes from siphoning out the water from your traps, by the way. Preventing vibration is a side effect. You're really showing how much you DON'T know.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962333]

>>962328
>>962323
why do these threads always turn into this non-sense, theres numerous ways to achieve the functions and its stupid to even argue about it

the guy needs the cheater valve there and that is final.

[Anonymous No.962334]

>>962278
No it's not considered a wet vent. A wet vent would be if I ran a stack from a 1st floor sink to the roof and tied into the stack from a 2nd story sink to use the stack as a drain to the septic.

[Anonymous No.962335]

>>962333
Simply trying to correct misinformation, sir. He wasn't having any of it and insisted that I was wrong. More a discussion of how a cheater/venting works rather whether he needs it or not.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962346]

>>962335
I'm the same guy silly
and you're not wrong just misunderstanding the intent behind words
you're right in that the cheater supports the trap, but the cheater isn't what prevents the gas, thats the job of the trap, they work together but a line can physically work without one and have no sewer gas problems depending on pipe layout further through the building, but can still suffer from leakage and floods from the problem of vibrations cracking the glue.
but we do agree that he needs both the cheater and the trap

though i'm still wondering why he has 2 s-traps

[Anonymous No.962355]

>>962346
>though i'm still wondering why he has 2 s-traps
Afro engineering, most likely.

I see how my original post could be mistaken if it wasn't assumed that I know the purpose of the trap. I was simply stating that the cheater allows venting from inside the house without the release of gases. Was kind of ignoring the trap.

Also didn't notice your tripcode the whole time.

[Anonymous No.962443]

>>962307
Im at work atm but basically it went from sink, a few feet of pvc, then a Y-shaped piece with an S-trap attatched to it with the cheater vent at the top. My instincts are telling me it's not going to work because it's quite a bit of distance between the two and the vent is significantly lower than where the P-trap will end up.

[Anonymous No.962474]

>>960072
>>960548
the connectors on the back are all held in with some wierd glue stuff
can I just cut the stuff off?

[Anonymous No.962482]

>>962474
here's the thing I'm trying to fix

[Anonymous No.962515]

How do I buff out scratches from the glass face on the movado?

[Anonymous No.962517]

Have a .cdl template for a 6"x12" sheet that I need to get cut out of an 1/8" sheet of stainless steel/aluminum.

Have neither the tools nor the time to fab it myself. Where's the best place to get low volume orders like this done?

[Anonymous No.962523]

>>962517

Find your local job shop. If they can't do it they'll know who can.

[Anonymous No.962662]

What's a good way to increase ventilation in a bedroom? Is ceiling exhaust a good idea?

[Anonymous No.962669]

>>962443
So if I'm understanding this correctly, there's no trap directly below the sink, it runs to the Y. On the upper side of the Y is the cheater vent, and on the lower side is an S trap?

[Anonymous No.962705]

>>962000
The springs in that style of clock are not in barrels, and need to be retained in rings before taking the movement apart. They are cheap to buy but you can make them if you have some steel bar or strip laying around.

There's a lot of power in those springs, be careful. But you can do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DynGappomM

[Anonymous No.962713]

>>962515
assuming it's not a shit movado that's sapphire which is all but impossible to buff out.

it's nearly as hard as diamonds, the hardest metal known to man

[Anonymous No.962714]

>>962713
>hardest material
>still gets scratches

fuck me

[Anonymous No.962723]

>>962713
Could possibly be mineral glass, in which case it could be retouched with dimishing grades of (good) abrasive paper then polished with some glass compound. For someone not experienced in that sort of work there's a pretty good chance of fucking it up completely.

[Anonymous No.962732]

I'm getting back into wood work at 25, I was a wiz at wood shop and made some sweet stuff in the past.

Starting out at retard level by refinishing a desk.

Should I use some kind of stripping chemical on it first and scrap?

I'm using a palm sander and only got a small 4in x 8in patch down to the clean wood after an hour. Am I being impatient? Is my harbor freight sand paper too shitty? I'm using 100g

Any recommendations on a stripper? I'm heading to Home Depot after work to get some

[Anonymous No.962738]

>>962732
Chemical stripper would work in your favor, especially if the desk isn't solid wood, which is the case most the time today.

[Anonymous No.962744]

>>962738
Nah it's real wood if I'm understanding you correctly but thanks for the input, if the rain holds off il start working on it in a couple hours

[Anonymous No.962793]

I have an opossum in my attic, can I get rid of it myself? If so, how?
What would be the cost of hiring a pro for this job?

[Anonymous No.962800]

>>962793
depending on your cubic footage you might need to use two. put them in metal bowls so they don't burn or singe anything. do your best to block exists. it'll either kill the fugger (and its babies) or it'll ust kill the babies and drive the fugger out. have at least one or two lookouts outside the house to see where smoke escapes and if the 'possum escapes. then it's a matter of sealing-up the exits so it can't get back in.

[Anonymous No.962801]

I'm thinking of replacing a few shingle tabs but while I was inspecting the roof I noticed some of the shingles were nailed while other few were stapled. This confused me a little because I thought I was supposed to nail them with 1 1/4 nails, is that correct?

When nailing the new shingles should I try to reuse the old nail holes or is it better not to? If not, should I seal the old holes with some caulk?

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962805]

>>962793
theres a listing of trappers in the states in this website, their rates will vary, and will probably be cheaper than buying the equipment yourself
http://www.wildlife-removal.com/opossum-attic.html

if you have balls bigger than your brains you could also make a snare pole, but then the matter comes of 'where the fuck do I put this thing now that I'm strangling it and it is lashing around'

>>962800
that just seems like a good way to make your neighbours call the fire department when they see plumes of smoke coming from your attic
could be fun
the fire fighters might even kill the opossums for you with the high pressure hoses

[Anonymous No.962818]

>>962800
I'd rather not do anything that can possible kill the 'little' vermin, it's actually 2-3 feet long. Not that I care about it's life but I rather not deal with corpses and all that. Also I'm not sure about how many of them are living up there and might leave a dead on behind stinking the whole place up.
>>962805
Yeah as you said if I capture it I wouldn't know what to do with it. And I still have to seal the possible entrances (pic related) and I still don't know if I can tackle the job myself. The small one, which is the one the animal uses, I can fix but that other one looks quite tricky.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962825]

>>962818
yikes@#2
how high up is that? would you be able to get a ladder up there?

if you dont wanna kill it def get a pro, enclosed spaces and raccoons is bad, I don't have any experience with opossums but I can't imagine they're all that much better about you sticking your face into their nest.

patching the first seems easy as long as as you can get a ladder up there, but with the second you, kinda have a hole through your fucking roof, and that probably needs more than a patch job around that area with all the water damage, and even the ugliest fix (probably like a shit tonne of spray foam?) is gonna be pretty expensive,but not getting #2 fixed will cost you a lot more than having a couple animals in your attic.

[Anonymous No.962837]

>>962825
Not high at all, this is a one story house so 12-14 feet maybe. The first hole is about 6-7 inches in diameter, the other one well... yikes@#2 describes it well.

I've neglected this property far too long but now I have some extra money and want to make the necessary repairs.

What would happen I fix the holes while the animal is still living in the attic? Will it chew it's ways out or starve to death?

[Anonymous No.962844]

>>962837

Both. Geez you cruel slumlord bastard.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962846]

>>962837
both, and you'll probably get attacked by it, don't be dumb, don't be cheap.

[Anonymous No.962848]

>>962844
>>962846
Haha, nah I was thinking about the proper order of things I don't really want to trap him inside the attic at all.

[None !2Code3TV3M No.962854]

>>962848
you might as well just stick your arm inside the hole with a ham sandwich if you even for a moment thought that was a good idea

[Anonymous No.962877]

I was cleaning my toilet tank and noticed that the bolts holding the tank are, how should I say this... bare uhm, the head of the bolt is sitting on a washer but it's in contact with the water in the tank. Is that ok or does it need some sort of cap?

[Anonymous No.962979]

Is it possible to replace one glass sheet from a two pane sliding window? $400 for a new window seems a bit too much.

[Anonymous No.963048]

Anyone know how to keep molten lead from sticking to a surface? I'm trying to make custom lead weights for making fishing lures, but I'm trying to mold the hole in the weight while I cast, I tried using a piece of iron nail that I filed to the hole size I wanted, but it stuck to the nail.. Anything I could possibly brush onto the nail to keep the molten lead from sticking?

[Anonymous No.963050]

>>962979
No

[Anonymous No.963216]

>>962979
Yes it's possible, but if it's a thermal pane you obviously won't have the inert gas charge that was there previously. Depends on the type of window. Pella wood framed 2 pane windows aren't terribly difficult to take apart and replace the glass but a thermal pane probably would be.

[Anonymous No.963217]

>>962848
Set out traps, kill trapped possum, fix hole.
Wait until dark, watch for possum to crawl out. Patch hole.
Use repellent in attic, watch for possum to crawl out, fix hole.

See where I'm going with this? I'd treat it like bats in a chimney. Wait until dark and they'll fly out on their own, then place your chimney cap and they won't get back in.

[Anonymous No.963220]

>>963217
Additionally, if you hand load shot shells, a .410/20 with rock salt would probably work well here. It'll sting him bad, but shouldn't blow holes in your house. Test on plywood I am no expert.

[Anonymous No.963277]

I've had this watch for 6 years and recently the strap broke. Is there any way to glue polyurethane for good ? I've tried some regular super glues but with no luck. I refuse to buy a new strap because the whole point of the watch is in the original strap. Pic kinda related.

[Anonymous No.963283]

>>962877
The only thing that would help you is a different bolt material (anti-corrosion) and a rubber/tar washer (anti-leak). Ain't no cap gonna prevent corrosion.

So if it's been fine, it's fine. If it's not, get a special bolt from the plumbing section of Homo Derpo or whatever you got.

[Anonymous No.963299]

>>959165
>>959167

Only thing I see wrong, OP, is the dishwasher drain hose - you should have looped it UP, then out to the DW, rather than down, then out to the DW. As it is, you run the risk of backflow into the DW, from the sink. Ideally, you want the loop to be up against the underside of the countertop. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.963468]

Bought this cheap-ass set of edgelord knives, the nylong sheath they came with doesn't stop the points from going through the end at all. Naturally this renders the sheath completely useless.

Is there any way to reinforce the sheath or DIY one up without already being a master leatherworker?

[Anonymous No.963567]

>>963217
Nice input.
>wait until dark
How dark is that exactly? I imagine myself waiting from dusk until down only for it to never come out. Oh by the way, I haven't seen it since mid January, I think, when I went up there to check the source of a leak and spotted it for the first time. Since then I've been in the attic maybe three times, both day and night, but didn't see it. Maybe it's dead, fml; how would I dispose of the carcass.

[Anonymous No.963581]

>>963567
Not sure, never removed a possum. If you haven't seen it in a couple months you probably are good to patch the hole and set out some traps just in case he's in there. If it's a carcass then put it in a bag and throw it in the trash.

[Anonymous No.963583]

>>963299
The dishwasher drain connects to a sanitary T, and slopes upward away from the pipe . The sanitary T alone prevents backflow, but the upward curve further prevents it. It's visible on the right in the second picture.

[Anonymous No.963584]

>>963581
If it's gone that would be great, I'm trying to remember if I've heard attic noises in the last month but I just can't remember. I hope he didn't drop dead though. I still have to clean the dropping and what not.

[Anonymous No.963637]

Thinking of ways to mount this into wooden enclosure.
It's a pretty small module, so it would be hard to have parallel slots on sides.
I am thinking of two options, one is to glue it or to create slots at 90 degree angle.
Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.963642]

>>963584
I'd start with a trap. Most traps are live traps and they seem to work well. You can go let him loose in some woods or call animal control and I'm sure they'd be happy to relocate the possum.

[Anonymous No.963645]

>>963637
Another solution.
Then just slide it in. This one seems the cleanest so far.

[Anonymous No.963688]

>>963299
Oh, I recently inspected/re-seated my dishwasher and replaced the hose looping up more.

Pretty sure that's an American thing, though. No professional installation I've seen here bothers with that (and I haven't seen many dishwasher drain hoses attached on a 90 to the tailpiece like that).

Still, thanks for the input. Was more worried about the ABS.

[Anonymous No.963693]

Multi-position ladders, yay or nay?

[Anonymous No.963702]

I've been removing the enamel coating from this cast iron skillet because it started flaking off in a small area.

I'm wondering how I can score a semi-straight circle where the walls meet the bottom so it's as even as possible and looks decent. Glass cutter? Other ideas?

[Anonymous No.963753]

>>963693
Waste of time. Get ladders that are task specific like A frame steps or combination a-frame/extension ladders.

[Anonymous No.963815]

>>963693
Nay. Get a folding step stool or kitchen ladder, a 6 foot step ladder, and a 15-20 ft extension ladder. You can do pretty much anything around a single story house with that combination. If you have a two story house then you might have to up it on the extension and get an 8-10ft step ladder depending on what you've got.

[Anonymous No.963862]

>>963693
I have 3 ladders and a couple step stools. 6' A frame, 18' extension and a Little Giant. The Little Giant is pretty sweet but a big heavy mofo to move around. Most of the time I use the A frame because it's light and easy to set up. The little giant does everything else until I need the extension ladder.

Best reason for the Little Giant? Fucking stairs! It has a leg that you attach for uneven surfaces. It allowed me to hang a huge clock piece in the stairwell without building a fucking scaffold. You can also set it up with one side parallel to the wall and the other side slanted which came in handy for trimming out my 10' ceiling.

[Anonymous No.963886]

I'm going to mod some consoles to 60hz and for the snes I need to desolder some chip legs. I have a adjustable temp solder and I've been practicing this on a broken pcb but everytime I try to desolder one leg I always end carrying a chunk of the pcb track with it, I'd like to avoid this.

I've been trying with different temp settings but the track keeps coming with the leg, How can I do this without ripping the track? is that possible or it's something I have to deal with?.

[Anonymous No.963893]

>>963753
>>963815
>>963862
Sound advice guys. I think I'll get a 6' A frame, thank you very much.

[Anonymous No.963895]

>>963886

i've done this many times.
- heat the pin from the side, or drop blob of solder to bridge the pin and its neighbour, then heat the neighbour
- insert exacto knife under pin and twist to lever it off
- use the /ohm/ thread, that's what it's for

[Anonymous No.963992]

What do you think of Black&Decker's 'Complete Ghuide of' series?

[Anonymous No.964555]

>>963992
You think any of us have been off the internet, m8?

[Anonymous No.964585]

>>963886

Hot air rework tools make desoldering an enjoyable experience.

[Anonymous No.964593]

>>959165
I need resources on what the most economical fruits/vegetables growing from what to grow to how to grow to them.

I'd also like to know about yurts, alternatives to wells (especially for showering)

[Anonymous No.964612]

Hey guys, I want to hang a few posters like pic related, but I'm not sure on the best way to secure the posters to the frame itself. I don't want to damage the posters, but I want the fastening to be secure. Also, I'd like to be able to take the frame and poster apart.

1. The method used in pic related is magnets on both the front and back strips of the frame. I'm not sure if this would cause the poster to stretch or otherwise deform at the points of contact with the magnets over time.

2. Another method is simply taping the poster to the frame. I'm not sure if the fastening would hold, nor am I sure on the best way to attach the front/back strips of the frame to each other.

3. The last method I've seen is a solid bottom/top piece with a channel sawed through the center. The poster is secured to the frame with wedges pushed into the slot. Not sure on how to make wedges, nor if it would hold.

To make it, I'm thinking of using four 1 1/2" X 1/2" strips if doing method 1 or 2. And two 1 1/2" X 1" if doing method 3.

I'm thinking of a dark walnut stain on pine or perhaps using actual walnut. Not sure if there is a large price difference between the two types of wood, but it doesn't seem to be very much material, so I'm expecting to spend around $30 or so for the first frame.

This will be my first ever project, and I want it to turn out well. Anyways, I'd appreciate any comments on whether I'm realistic in my expectations, and what method you think would be best. Thanks for reading.

[Anonymous No.964671]

Just removed allen bolts holding the ignition coils on my motorbike, they were held with red loctite. I used steel brush to clear the loctice off the bolts, this shouldn't damage the threads right? They look fine to me at least.

As for the internal threads, I found the following tip: find a bolt of the same size, cut a longitudinal groove on the threads and screw the bolt in and out, it'll bring the loctite out in the cut section. Well I I tried it and it seemed to work fine! Are there any other ways to clean the internal threads though? How clean do I need to get them before I can reinstall the bolts with fresh loctite?

[Anonymous No.964766]

>>964555
Well, maybe you download them or something?

[Anonymous No.964780]

>>964671
The whole point of loctite is that it holds the bolt so it doesn't vibrate loose.
The old stuff won't make the bolt lubricated or slippy so why bother removing it.
Usually they tell you to replace the bolt. If you ask 99% of people will tell you they just reuse the bolt and keep an eye on it, check it regularly until you are confident it won't fall out.
You think if you take your vehicle to a garage the guy stands around cleaning Loctite off a bolt? You think they even check the torque on every bolt? Do they fuck.
If its a stretchy deforming bolt that you have to do a 2 stage tighten on then don't reuse it. Anything else goes back the same way it came out
I have never heard of anyone cleaning loctite out of a hole.

[Anonymous No.964799]

>>964671
>>964780

Just the act of unscrewing the existing bolt should have sufficiently cleaned any loctite out of the internal threads.

[Anonymous No.964845]

>>964671
If you really care, run a tap down the thread. In my experience, it makes no difference at all unless there's so much loctite it's actually difficult to tighten the bolt (tip: there shouldn't be that much).

Also, assuming the bolts you have are decent quality, and not really old, they're hardened steel, so a wire brush is going to do nothing to the threads.

[Anonymous No.964851]

I have a pretty medium sized bluetooth speaker which never gets used that much. Is there anyway I can make it portable?
Its power input is 18v, can it be driven by a 12v battery?

[Anonymous No.964877]

Anyone knowledgeable in lubes?
What lube for what application?
Is graphite lube good for a car skyroof's rails?
When to use rigid, paste lubes and when oil based ones?

[Anonymous No.964879]

I have capacitive buttons on my monitors and I want to be able to trigger them with a raspberry pi.
I tried wiring them to a relay controlled by the pi and then to the neutral of an outlet and it didnt work.
How do?

[Anonymous No.964890]

>>964877

no, graphite lubes are only good for small areas that need to be super slick, and wont be washed away. I've only heard of it used on locks and Pinewood Derby cars.

[Anonymous No.964913]

>>964890

Source, or any other uses you could think of? I bought a tub for reasons unknown and I don't know where to use it...

[Anonymous No.965142]

Looking at getting an air compressor, found 3 on amazon and i can't decide which one I like. All 3 have 4.5 stars and all are prime elegable (I live in Alaska so this is important).
It will be used for light garage work, so airing tires, blowing particulate off of stuff, eventually powering some light duty air impact/wrench/hammer/etc and other stuff like that. Nothing super demanding or needing to be run for minutes at a time with no stopping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S81T7O
Campbell Hausfeld HL540100AV $200
8 gallon rolling tank
125 psi
1.3 HP oiled
4.5cfm @40psi, 3.7cfm @90psi
>largest capacity, oiled so quieter, highest cfm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UHK0
PORTER-CABLE C2002-WK $140
6 gallon pancake tank
150 psi
Unknown oilless
3.5cfm @40psi??, 2.6cfm @90psi
>Includes hose and accessories, cheapest, probably most compact

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOSCDPA
California Air Tools 5510SE$190
5.5 gallon rolling tank
120 psi
1 HP oilless
3.1CFM @40PSI, 2.2CFM @90PSI
>dual piston, only 60db when running, underclocked due to dual pistons for longevity and power savings (only 8.5 amps)

[Anonymous No.965256]

>>964671
>How clean do I need to get them before I can reinstall the bolts with fresh loctite?
Just put fresh loctite on and install. You don't need to clean them, the old loctite will continue to do its job (at least for blue). Allegedly you're not supposed to get red off without a torch, but I've removed bolts with red on them without a torch as well. It's not like a glue, you can put it on the bolt, let it dry and then screw it in and it will serve its purpose. Many companies send hardware with loctite preapplied in this fashion.

[Anonymous No.965690]

I have an old and thoroughly rusted hatchet that's been sitting unloved and unused in salt air for probably several decades (the last time my grandparents used a hatchet for anything was probably the 80s at the latest) and I'd like to get the rust off while not damaging any patina that might be present underneath. Any suggestions on what rust remover to use? I was looking at Rust Release Supergel or Evapo-rust to do the heavy lifting followed by a very light scrubbing with fine bronze wool.

[Anonymous No.965712]

Found these in grandpas tools box. I think that they are at least 30 years old. I am interested if anyone know which brand these are and if they are decent quality.

The head is pretty heavy.
I need extra force for opening or closing them, but not too bad.
When the head is closed, fringes are perfectly flat and spacing is probably 0.2-0.4mm between.
The engraving are ending with "ER", I am pretty certain that there is at least one letter before that.

I'd like to restore them. A friend suggested that I should leaved them in a plate filled with oil over 24h.

[Anonymous No.965714]

>>962346
you were implying you werent the same guy samefag

[Anonymous No.965733]

>>959165
Stupid question A:
3 batteries and 3 things that need to be connected to said batteries
2 are loads (main board, monitor) and 1 is charging (solar panel)
So I plan to set it up as 3 isolated simple circuits, to make things simple compared to my original goals.

But I want a simple way to rotate/switch batteries without dismantling my device. So I am looking for switch or knob or something, not even sure what it would be called.
I could just have 9 switches, but if I ever flip them in the wrong order it would fry things and I am trying to make this moderately idiot resistant.


Stupid question B (alternative for stupid question A, but likely harder):
Alternatively if someone knows of a board that just solves my original more complex issues of handling variable solar input (~6V@0-1.5Amp) and charge a battery and charge from USB and run from battery and run from USB, all in 5V@~2.5Amp that would be nice as well. Found a few things I could connect to do it but their power ratings are all wrong.

[Anonymous No.965759]

I want to run some 3 prong 220 cables in my house and I was wondering if I could do it my self?

[Anonymous No.965763]

I have a leaking roof, have had it for a few months actually. Didn't file a claim because until now I didn't have enough money to pay for the deductible. There was a thunderstorm a few days ago and I'm kind of blaming the damages on that but I don't know I kind of feel like my lie is too thin. How likely is it for my home insurance claim to be denied due to negligence?

[Anonymous No.965764]

>>965759
You do not want to do it yourself.

there are two major reasons
1. They are dangerous, that is more then enough power to kill you and burn your house down.
2. Every place I can think of puts that firmly in the realm of a certified electrician. So it would be a real pain to pass any building inspections (even if you do everything better then code) or try to sell the place later, and that is ignoring the fines (although the odds of getting caught are low).

Granted I have only glanced though the general ICC for Virginia, but it was clear that things involving 220 or mainlines was not DIY.
There were some special cases for like short extension cords for things like moving a dryer a foot or so, but cord gauge and length were a big deal and some cases, assuming ALL the rules were followed but it was clearly not recommended.

What makes me even more worried is you said "some", as in more than one. What are you trying to do that takes that much power?

[Anonymous No.965770]

>>965763
Also what is exactly the point of taking pictures of the damage? I don't have 'before' pictures so I don't really see the point.

[Anonymous No.965781]

Not sure if this is the right board, but i am not sure what drill to buy.
I know bare minimum about drills, i did do some research while looking for good deals. I narrowed it down to 3 drills, now I'm just not sure if i buy the cheapest one I'm looking at since it's a store brand or just shell out and go for a brand name drill. I won't be using it regularly and i might have to build pic related.


Cheapest - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-18V-Li-ion-Cordless-Combi-Drill-with-2-Batteries/p/141178

http://www.diy.com/departments/ryobi-one-plus-cordless-18v-li-ion-combi-drill-2-batteries-llcdi18022l/196738_BQ.prd

http://www.diy.com/departments/dewalt-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-dcd785c2sf-gb/163847_BQ.prd

[Anonymous No.965827]

>>965733
Well I think I solved my question (submitted at 03/22/16(Tue)08:12:46)
I was trying to find something that meet my requirements, searches turned up nothing
So I started to design my solution
Started with a old telephone operator style switch board, with pull and plug
then tried to adapt it to some rotating design so I would not have to unplug and plug all the time, but kept getting shorts in my layout
switched to a set of gears with some parts conductive and others non-conductive so they would all rotate to prevent shorts, which actually worked but was a bit complex and would take more work to figure out how to manufacture
Then realized I could stack them like a lock with outward contact pins to save space
this lead to a rotating pin design, but this time the layers added a new degree of freedom to allow current to go up and over rather then short the circuit
so I started looking for parts I would need to build my clever solution
in may searches I find picture of a rotary switch for old audio systems, looks a lot like my rotating key switch
do more research, find out my idea was done long ago under the name of rotary switches
find the type of rotary switch that should work, 3 pole 9 position type or some other version as many of those positions will be redundant but give my desired functionality
now just need to find where I can buy one that meets my needs

redraw my circuit designs, two revisions one of which was very major, added back some addition back in some functions from ultimate goal list
Then return to post this, being the closet match I found so far

[Anonymous No.965864]

>>965759
If you have an electrical safety authority to inspect and pass you, you can try doing that if you know what you are doing. There would be a fee for that, but I wouldn't do it any other way.

Those kinds of appliance wires may require a panel upgrade, depending on how full yours is and what it's rated at, though.

If you aren't familiar with this kind of work, please hire an electrician. It may even be cheaper in the end, if it's one wire.

[Anonymous No.965866]

>>965781
This is that board, and we have tool threads all the time. No real agreement apart from general "it's shit" and "decent brand", though.

Check an archive of this board for such threads and discussion. Input the brand names, etc. I'm sure you'll find something.

[Anonymous No.965868]

>>965781
Dont get a cordless drill unless you absolutely need one. They are shit. I have a corded 500w ryobi and it does fine.

[Anonymous No.965871]

>>965781
This is that board, and we have tool threads all the time. No real agreement apart from general "it's shit" and "decent brand", though.

Check an archive of this board for such threads and discussion. Input the brand names, etc. I'm sure you'll find something.

Ryobi is trash-tier, but DeWalt has slipped in quality, IIRC, and may not be worth it. For a homeowner, I'd get a Ridgid (same company as Ryobi, home depot store brand, the name may vary in bong-land or Ausfailia), or a mid-range tool like Makita or Milwaukee (Makita is considered high-range by some).

So 18v, just not Ryobi. 12v is for housewives who want to hang pictures.

[Anonymous No.965879]

>>965868
18v lithium cordless have served me fine. Godsend when working outside the shop, like this guy seems to be, and for homeowners who just do weekend projects. Impact drivers are great.

I agreed with you a few years ago, though.

[Anonymous No.965886]

>>965871
Ryobi is fine. My wife has been mrlurdering a 7 year old drill for years using it to clean gourds and putting significant torque on the chuck with a sanding ball thing.

I used another drill running phone jacks and shit for three years professionally.

It's fine.

[Anonymous No.965902]

>>965871
>(Makita is considered high-range by some).

Damn Straight!

[Anonymous No.965929]

>>965827
I retract my statement of success,

I have been looking for hours and nearly all the rotatory switches are for =>28V@<1Amp.
But I am dealing with Lithium Ion Battery Pack 3.7~4.2V@6~6.6Amp so as I understand it all the amps would just fry the switch.

Why is it so hard to find a switch to do wan I want, while handling the energy levels I plan to use?
see>> 965733 for original question

[Anonymous No.965931]

>>965902
Preach.

[Anonymous No.965944]

>>965142
Always get oiled unless you are doing painting with it.
Last a lot longer.

[Anonymous No.965946]

>>965902
I always hated those old ass wood square drills.

[Anonymous No.965959]

What brand is this?
They are made in the November of '89 and seem very well.

[Anonymous No.966009]

Is it ok to bypass the thermostat to start the furnace to see if the thermostat is malfunctioning?

[Anonymous No.966022]

>>965733

You need a charge controller for connecting your panels to the batteries, and why don't you just wire your batteries up in parallel to get your full capacity without having to bother with switching batteries.

[Anonymous No.966086]

Any ideas what I can do with these? I have four small plates of carbon fibre panelling, about 128mm by 36mm leftover from some testing I've been doing for college. I was thinking of using two of them to make knife scales over the summer as they are quite nice looking, but I'm not sure what to do with the other two.

[Anonymous No.966102]

Are the motors in VHS video cameras universal? I have one great camera but the door is fucked, won't open properly or play but I have another working camera that I can cannibalize.

[Anonymous No.966124]

>>966022
the charge controller I found says it has "smart load sharing" or something like that to prevent constant battery cycling which is an issues all the other controllers I found have, but this one has two other issues
1. it only passes up to 1.8 amps, while my load can range from 1.5 to 2.5amps so brownouts are very likely
2. it directly let the full 6V reach my 5V computer, so it can fry it, page suggests adding a low-dropout-regulator to fix this issues, but all the ones I find drop 7V to 5V with no documentation of the 6-5.2V range which is what I would need

I looked around for a controller that would just do everything but could not find one, so this was my backup idea which I thought would be a simple solution. None of this is truing out to be simple, thank goodness I am doing research before buying things this time.

[Anonymous No.966138]

alright gonna ask my /diy/ brothers, this is the wrong board for this type of question but hear me out. since I lurk here the most.

when I was 22, I played the lotto and won 11 million, after taxes it came out somewhere around 6 million, I spent about million on old/new motorcycles a modest house [1400 sq foot] on a chunk of 40 acre land [I wanted the land more then the house] and a whole lot of play toys, I mean tools. I spent the main bulk on buying tools. I just barely spent under 1 million in 2 years. and threw the rest in a bank that makes me 1% interest. and I live off of that interest, around 50k a year. since all I have to pay for is utility's and any sort of tooling or new tools I want/need you can say life is pretty easy. I donate a lot of money into my local high school to keep the art classes open, and wood shop. about 10 thousand a year.

now here comes the issue, I think my girlfriend has been hinting the last 2 years about getting married, and shes real nice to have around and everything, lately I think she's been hinting around MORE that she might want to get married. the problem being for me, is she doesn't know about the money.. and everything I bought was before her, for the most part. expect a project motorcycle and various tools and kitchen appliances. Its not like I'm 100% apposed to marriage.

but idk how I should go about to protect myself, do you all think its reasonable to ask for a prenup through some lawyers? not that I wouldn't be willing to share my yearly income to keep a roof over her head, and buy her food clothes, and she already has her own job. but I don't wanna turn it into a situation where half my money has to go to her because then I wont be able to no longer live off of that original money as I planned too for the rest of my life..

some might ask, well who do you care about more, her or the money? and my answer to that, is myself. I'm trying to cover my own ass, but I also don't want to scare her off.

[Anonymous No.966141]

>>966138

Prenup if you HAVE to get married

Marriage is punishment for shoplifting in some countries

[Anonymous No.966147]

>>966138
Prenup. Not even a question. You have too many assets to get taken to the cleaners for no reason. Watch Divorce Corps on netlfix.

For all you know, she has figured it out, that you got something at least, and already has plans for all of it. I'd advise to keep it that she never knows shit. My wife still isn't on my bank account, but I gave her a credit card.

There is no doubt on the prenup. If she balks at it, it's because she does want your money, and you absolutely shouldn't marry and should let her know she should GTFO because you're never going to marry her without a prenup. Infact, check with a lawyer to make sure you don't accidentally into common law marriage and she gets to take all your money anyway.

[Anonymous No.966149]

>>966141
yeah.. but you know women have this vanity thing. I guess once they get past a certain age and they can no longer fill in all the wrinkles with makeup. they seek marriage because its like they know they aren't getting any prettier. and I'm just kinda like "meh whatever" type of person..

I just idk how she will react to knowing that I really don't sell the piece of crap motorcycles that I restore for what I say I do, and that this whole time I've been pulling her arm and bullshitting her just so she didn't know I had a good chunk of change in my back pocket.

I also don't want any freaking reason for her to kill me in my sleep. as of now, if I died it would go to my parents, if they were gone, it would be split between my two sisters. if they where gone, it would default to the government. I have no children to worry about.

[Anonymous No.966152]

>>966147
kinda what I figured. about the part "if she balks at it."

yeah I would defo get a lawyer and get everything notarized, hell I might get two lawyers just to make sure no local law's grey area cucks me.

I doubt she has me figured out, I have a false bank account that basically stays logged into on my phone and house computers, its connected to my actual account but there's no way of actually seeing that account from the false account. you basically see like 7-9 grand in the false account at time.. so even if she snooped, there's no real way. only way possible if some how she found my tax information. I have a garage laptop that I keep hidden inside an old power drill case that has all my information that I need to remember and access in it.. and I doubt she found that as it stays under a pile of junk for all the year expect for like the 3 times a year I would need to use it.

[Anonymous No.966252]

>>966102
Well, yes, and no. While the motors are not specific to the unit, they don't all use the same one. What you should do, is find the numbers on the motor and track down a replacement that way.

[Anonymous No.966327]

>>966138
>I'm trying to cover my own ass, but I also don't want to scare her off.
If you feel that you need a prenup, you shouldn't get married to her. Marriage is not a 50-50 agreement, it's 100-100. The fact that she DOESN'T know about the money is a good thing, because you KNOW she's not after it.

The friction you'd run into is if she wants to spend your principle investment, which is where you have to draw the line. Also, in a bank at 1% is fine since you have such a large investment, but there are VERY secure mutual funds that could be earning you closer to 10% every year, allowing you to live off of 5% (leave 5% for inflation). Right now your money is losing value every year because it's not growing enough to beat inflation.

[Anonymous No.966328]

>>966327
Oh, if you're weary, keep her name off the account with the money in it. She can't touch it in a divorce if it's only been in your name.

[Anonymous No.966400]

>>966138
>I own a house an all the tools and motorcycles I could want and even though I don't have a job that should afford such things my girlfriend has no idea I have money

Yeah. Fucking. Right. Most guys with a job can barely afford a car.

Not to mention, Lottery winners are a matter of public record. For all you know, you were targeted by this woman because she knows you have money.

Don't love her? (and it sounds like you don't) Don't marry her. Let her move on, especially before she can get any kind of common law argument up and running.

[Anonymous No.966499]

Can you polish carbon steel?
If so can i do it with a dremel, the polish wheel and compound?

[Anonymous No.966501]

>>966499

Easily, and, yes, that will work. Harder steels take a fine polish more easily than soft ones, but I'm not aware of _any_ metal you can't actually polish. You could polish lead to some moderate luster if you had some reason for it.

Although, with just a dremel, it will be really slow going if you need to do any appreciable area.

[Anonymous No.966505]

>>966501
Its not a large area its a opinel blade

[Anonymous No.966575]

Can someone help me identify this shrub? Those purple 'berries' grow around fall/winter, the rest of the year they are not there. The shrub is always green and if you don't trim it, it can look like a small tree; I've seen them grow up to 14' tall.

[Anonymous No.966721]

>>966138
>>966327
I was going to mention, not even related to the marriage, that the money should be making a lot more. Don't know what country you're in, even a basic bond is greater than one percent over five to ten years. Banking and stock firms and shit can make much more, like 5% at least.

[Anonymous No.966773]

>>966575
need a picture of the actual berry and location.
>if I dont trim my hedge it stops looking like a hedge
it looks kinda like privet. which wouldnt be surprising considering it's used extensively in landscaping.

>this kills the OP

[Anonymous No.966775]

I need to mount a projector screen 10' long to a ceiling joist and am not sure if regular wood screw style screw hooks will suffice, as pictured. Is there a better way? The screen weighs ~20lbs.

[Anonymous No.966776]

Scored a Samsung TV board for $4 today.
This is the power supply S1007122C.
That white female plug in top right corner is the input. It says 15A/250V on the board right to it.
Screw connector on bottom left corner is ground.
So it seems like that that plug can go straight from AC outlet?

[Anonymous No.966777]

>>959855
>two nesting boxes (three hens expected).

you monster

[Anonymous No.966789]

>>966775
You probably need screws with nuts/bolts for that scenario. Ordinary wood screws are just too weak for that

[Anonymous No.966814]

>>966776
>So it seems like that that plug can go straight from AC outlet?

yup

what are you doing with it?

usually those things just give you +12/+5/+3.3 something

[Anonymous No.966870]

>>966773
Oooh, you are good! That looks just like it. I only mentioned the 'grow like trees' thing because I have other shrubs and they stay like shrubs even if I don't trim them so I thought it might be a defining characteristic. I'm in the DFW area btw, unfortunately the berries are gone, but if it helps I have a leaf pic, uhm I don't know I think you nailed it though.

Now I can look for care tips and what not. I'd like to make a privacy fence with them since they are already there and my wood fence is slowly dying. I know it can be done because the south wing of my backyard is lined with this shrubs and they are very tall, not very thick but I hope I can fix that. The east wing has like 8 of these just as tall but they look more like trees, they won't work as a fence. Do you thing it would be too late (or soon) for a rejuvenation cut (coppicing I think it's called)?

[Anonymous No.967107]

>>966814
It has 2x12V, 4x5v, 4x24V, 5VSB and STB (not sure what this is, probably some stand by).
I want to turn it into bench power supply.

[Anonymous No.967213]

where if possible can i find details about the design of certain gas turbine engines like the AGT -1500? i've read up on the general parts and inner workings of turbine engines but i want to get into the dirty details of the thinking that went into their design specifically the smaller types.

[Anonymous No.967242]

>>966870
>they're planted along the edge of the property
yeah they're definitely a hedge of privet then that's just not been trimmed for years. if you start cutting it back you might find the original edge of the hedge. or maybe nobody ever trimmed them. either way, just cut them back to about a foot from where you want the border to be. then it will grow in all directions. then just cut it back until its hedge shaped. privet is a noxious weed but it's very easy to tame.

[Anonymous No.967246]

>>966870
you want this kind of branch structure. once it gets all those tiny branches it restricts growth and the plant learns its place.

[Anonymous No.967250]

>>967246
and here i've sort of highlighted each successive stage of pruning they did to give it that shape. you let it grow beyond that boundary so it gets nice thick branches then lop them off. then again, then again until its a thick mat of branches.

generally you just leave the top untouched until its at a height you want while trimming the edges in

[Anonymous No.967330]

>>966776
So I hooked 2 outlet wires in and I am only reading 5V from 5VSB.
Didn't hook the ground.
Do I need to bridge something to run it or is something broken?

[Anonymous No.967590]

I picked up an old trailer with a snapped tongue for free
Replacing it with 2.5"x2.5" square tube but I am not sure what thickness to get. Its not very heavy (<1000lbs) and the load shouldnt be any more than an additional ~800

[Anonymous No.967952]

>>962482
>>962474
yes

[Anonymous No.968071]

is there a spray to use to get the miror effect or is it not a diy thing

[Anonymous No.968212]

I just got a new lawn mower and the instructions manual says that I must use e10 fuel, is that regular gasoline from the gas station?

[Anonymous No.968220]

Does anyone have advice for knife sharpening? I find it easy to get a razor sharp edge on smaller knives using a whetstone, but I can't seem to get as sharp of an edge on anything large.

[Anonymous No.968257]

>>968220

It's all about the angle. Buy yourself pic related to learn about what angle you want for each knife. A greater angle means a more sturdy edge, but it will be less sharp. Conversely, low angle blades will be surgical scalpel sharp but wont be able to withstand heavy work.

I grind my every day pocket knife at 20 degrees, my kitchen knives at 25, and my outdoor yard knife at 30.

I also strop my blades on a piece of denim glued to a board. I rub polishing compound into each piece of denim. One green and one red. This puts the final shine on the edge and I notice a difference.

[Anonymous No.968723]

bump

[Anonymous No.968829]

I dunno if anyone's gonna read this since the thread is so far down, but I have an issue that I want to figure out without tearing up some drywall.

I have a wall switch, a ceiling lamp, and an outlet. When the ceiling lamp is turned off, the outlet is switched on and off with the wall switch. When the ceiling lamp is turned on, the wall switch will have either the outlet be on 100%, or the outlet and ceiling lamp will share the power 50%.

How the hell is this wired up?

[Anonymous No.968891]

How do I know if copper/brass pipe is safe to melt down?

I got a bunch of old pipe I want to melt in my foundry but I also know some alloys have metals in them that give off fumes when melted.

I've heard if you put it to a grinder and it sparks you are fine but I'm not sure how true that is.

[Anonymous No.969195]

Goodnight, sweet thread...

[Anonymous No.969196]

>>968829
Better learn drywalling.

[Anonymous No.969207]

>>968829
But possibly in series somehow. If a new thread starts, post there with all the fixtures removed, showing how many wires are hooked up and to what terminals. Obviously, turn off the power at the breaker.