Knife making

[Anonymous No.87864]

So I've made 2 knives so far, picture is my 2nd one. I did a much better job than my first. It's even really sharp.

Now I'm thinking of going larger. My question is does anyone have a setup or jig suggestions to get the perfect bevel? So far I've been eyeballing it on a bench grinder and while I've been getting better with each blade It's still a huge pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.87869]

My next project I'm planning on making a longer version of a mauser bayonet. The original is about 9ish inches but I'd like to go a little longer. Braze a small brass hilt and use the same paracord handles I've been using for my knives. Because the blade is longer than the 6ish inch knives I've been making, keeping a straight bevel will even been tougher using my old eyeballing method.

[Anonymous No.87874]

Is it going to be an actual functioning bayonet or just a knife that looks like one?

[Anonymous No.87878]

>>87874

no no not an actual bayonet. Just copying the blade profile because it's pointy and neat and I've been getting better at grinding the profile. The attachment doohicky would be a pain in the ass in itself.

[Anonymous No.87884]

Learn to do it by hand. Most of the pros can do it by hand and do do it by hand. I assume you aren't going to make 100 of the same knife so acquiring the fine motorskills is useful.

[Anonymous No.87925]

>>87864
by hand is the way to go, but the bench grinder is too round to get the bevel correct most of the time.

You'll need to make a belt grinder mod from one side of your bench grinder to have enough flat surface from which to properly grind with.

The other option that can help you, is if you have access to a forge, you can heat your blade to yellow heat and anneal it in the air a couple of times. Once annealed, it will be soft enough to go at it on a vice with controlled file strokes. Once complete, you can then reharden by heating back up to yellow and quenching in water. Depending on the steel you're using you may need to experiment a bit with the hardening/tempering portion.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.87941]

A bench grinder is fine if you're using a wheel that is 9" or larger, but it doesn't really compare to a belt sander.

You can do the preliminary work on a bench grinder, but finishing should be done on a belt sander. If you can't afford a proper bench mounted upright belt sander, carefully gripping one in a bench vise will work fine. The key is having a flat surface for removing material so that you can alter the angle without having to worry about the minute arc from the wheel.

>>87869
Please notice that this knife has the hilt screwed on through the tang. Brazing is a rather poor method of fashioning a hilt to a tang. There is a very small amount of surface area that the capillary action will be able to form a bond between the pieces with, and it isn't a very strong bond to begin with.

If you're doing a paracord wrap anyway, why not just use countersunk screws to fashion the hilt?

[Anonymous No.87942]

protip:

knife + gun = knife gun

[Anonymous No.87950]

>>87941

well what would you recommend for fashioning a hilt to the tang, you snarky piece of shit tripfaggot you?

[Anonymous No.87964]

>my blade when the majority of advice in this thread is wrong, from anonfag and tripfag alike.

[Anonymous No.87967]

>>87964

Is that a damascus steel katana? WTF? How?

[Anonymous No.87974]

>>87967

Yes.

Spend 15+ years forging, you'll learn.

[Anonymous No.87978]

>>87974

To add, you'll also be making a fuckton of austenite before you'll learn the proper way of making damascus steel.

[Anonymous No.88025]

This is awesome. I used to have a huge interest in knifemaking but dismissed it due to my suburban setting. Retained a lot of information, though. Anneal the blade and make the bevel by hand with a file. Anneal it by heating it up in a fire made with hardwood and allowing the fire to die or allow it to cool at room temperature after heating it yellowy-orange by some other means. Reharden it by bringing it to critical temperaturee (the temperature

[Anonymous No.88028]

at which the steel becomes non-magnetic) and quenching it in something like animal fat, which is efficient and cheap. Also, edge quenching is the way to go now. Laminate takes years of practice, with advice from the Swedish and Japanese (not suggesting I can do it).

[Anonymous No.88035]

>>87950
not knowing truckerfag is one of the best tripfags on /o/ for actually being helpful

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88043]

>>87950
I suggested countersunk screws.

I personally use hand drawn rivets.

>>88025
What made you give up on knifemaking? I got started on toolmaking in the suburbs, and never had a problem once I switched to a gas fuel so embers didn't fly all over my neighbors houses...

[Anonymous No.88045]

I've made a few knives but i'm no expert for sure.
Although as far as the bevel goes i do most of the work by hand with files. though some people use a belt sander.. i've had no success with bench grinders move too much metal too fast in too unpredictable a pattern for me.

[Anonymous No.88052]

this is my first attempt. piece of old 1080. big flat square of it we found in my buddys old shop.
>hours making a kiln, setting anvil up, sorting out tools and trough with motor oil
>FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
>hours on a powergrinder

ugly as fuck, still pretty dull since I never put a decent edge on it. Just made it to take down branches and sapling really.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88068]

>>88052
>neat.gif
I really like seeing unpolished blades. Any particular reasoning behind the blade curvature?

Also, is that a shovel handle?

[Anonymous No.88091]

>>88068
yes on the shovel handle.
No reason for the curve other than i thought it would be easier to have a wider edge to chop with.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88092]

>on topic video
thanks stumbleupon!
http://www.wimp.com/traditionalknife/

[Radiofag No.88096]

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88102]

>>88091
I see. I asked because it had some similarities with the traditional gardening axe.

pic related.

[Anonymous No.88103]

>>88102
pretty cool.
that made my day.

[Anonymous No.88104]

Wow. OP here. Glad to see my thread is still alive.

I think I've decided to go with the file method for now. I don't really have too much the room for a belt sander but there is this cheap smaller model I might consider buying for this project so it's very tempting. Who knows I might make the plunge and get it. Also I think I'll try to soften the steel even more prior to shaping it by getting it super hot and letting it cool down really slow...probably by leaving it to cool with the coals since it might come in handy it being a much larger blade and much more work.

>>87941
Thanks for the advice. The hilt is tiny and mainly just for show and I think it would make it look more proper. But the screw idea would actually be better. Got any pics of examples?

>>88025
Man don't let the suburbs hold you back. I'm in the city. Just have to know your limitations. No way I have the room for a forge so I use a bbq with a blow dryer to do the heating for the hardening process. Just covering it with a layer of briquets and blowing air onto it for a minute gets it glowing. I think if I used more coals with air it should get it even hotter. And beyond that in the end you can just get by with files it will just take a long time.

Also as for the bench grinder I think I will be limiting its use. I knew it wasn't the greatest tool but had to try for myself and yeah it does leave deep nasty marks I have to go back and spend a lot of time smoothing out with sandpaper.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88107]

>>88096
That reminds me that I have 40lbs of railroad ties I bought from canada back home.

I bought them right before my family moved across the country, and the moving company refused to move my anvil, so I never got around to doing anything with them.

Still haven't found a decent low priced 250lb anvil...

[Anonymous No.88110]

OP again.

Another thing I'd like help with. Does anyone know of where I can go to get a finish knife hot blued? Not cold bluing kits from gun supply stores but the actual hot one that makes it look really nice?

Gunsmiths do it for guns but they charge an arm and a leg and their service involves taking the gun a part and crap and I just need a single blade done.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88114]

>>88104
Well, if its an ornamental hilt, and won't actually be used for smashing things, brazing would be fine. You might want to look into a rat tail tang if you intend on mounting a functional hilt some day. >>88092 has an example of a rat tail finish for a hilt, though it is an ornamental handle.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88119]

>>88107
fuck... meant railroad spikes, not ties.

>>88110
Try it out with a propane torch. Its a lot easier than it seems to get started. The key is gaining enough skill to create an even tone over varied thicknesses of steel.

Some blacksmiths prefer doing it in their ovens though. 450F for an hour, followed by a quench in transmission fluid. Might take longer depending on the thickness of the blade.

[Anonymous No.88124]

>>88119
I initially got a benzomatic torch but found the best I could achieve was getting one little spot red and it was a pain to keep lit. That's when I decided on the bbq route.

Is there actually more potential to unlock with the torch and it's just my crappy skill or did I get the wrong torch? If I can get it to work it would be great because I actually bought a few fire bricks to do the work on to be a little more safe.

Pic related, it's the torch I got except mine came with a smaller tank.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88133]

>>88124
Torches are really only good for bluing and soldering, beyond pic related, which is just silly.

Unless of course you build your own. I have one similar to this at home.
http://ronreil.abana.org/minifor1.shtml
I use a 20lb propane tank, but I would like to get a 60lb some day, because I cant use it below 30 degrees for more than 15 minutes before it ices up.

However, it is an excellent knife forge, and it works fine for everything up to jump welding if you tune the flame properly.

[Anonymous No.88161]

depending on budget:

the "money no object" is a belt linisher - see pic.
setup with Al/Ox belts, and it'll grind flats, distal tapers, and with the right set of contact wheels, will do hollowgrind faces and fullers too.

grinding fullers is the hardest bit, you'll need to make a guide jig for that. its possible to cut a fuller with a dremel if you're good.

on a linisher, use a wooden jig with adjustable angle setting, with magnets to clamp the blade into position, hinge round to the right angle, then grind.

its possible to do the same clamping the blank to a bench and using a bench grinder for the profile and basic roughing out, and then smooth it out with good files and a bit of eyeballing, but not ideal.


or of course, forgework the shape and then file/linisher for the detailing.

[Anonymous No.88180]

>>87964
>>87967
>>87974
It is a cheap Chinese POS, they sell them on eBay, no not the stainless 440c ones, they also sell "hand forged folded damascus steel katanas" Uoi can tell by that tacky yellow faux silk lined box, and the coarse pattern.

[Anonymous No.88187]

>>88124
Just a thought - is that a pic of your torch? Blue is butane,
they do a few different ones, but the yellow Bernzomatic cans are MAPP gas are MAPP gas, which is a mixture of acetalyne & propynne (spelling?), it's the hottest burning one they do, way hotter than the black / blue, but it does cost a bit more. As long as your torch is rated for it (mapp is hot enough to melt a butane only torch, and that'd be pretty fucking serious) should be a lot more usefull

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88190]

>>88187
>can says propane
In america, propane comes in grey, blue, and green bottles, MAPP in yellow, and oxygen is red (only applys to these small handheld bottles).

You can run MAPP through a butane or propane torch nozzle without a problem, as long as you can adjust the fuel/air ratio. The gas keeps the body cool, and the flame is outside of the nozzle.

I've used butane, propane, and MAPP. In my experience, MAPP isn't ever worth the cost over propane for running straight, but I like to keep a can on hand if I need to do some sheet cutting, since I can't justify the purchase of an oxy/acetylene cutting setup.

[Anonymous No.88206]

Where is a good place to get started in this?

I have plans for a forge I am setting up, but beyond that, any beginner tips?

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88220]

>>88206
Buy a book. They're very thorough, offer some sample processes, often have tables and diagrams, and sometimes explain what you're doing wrong when you've fucked up.

Knife making is a fairly intermediate form of blacksmithing, so I don't reccomend anyone start with it, and nor do most of the experts. Try making a few tools first, just to get accustomed to the tools and timing.

What are you considering for a forge? A hammer? An anvil? A workspace? A work platform? A fire extinguisher?

[Anonymous No.88229]

>>88104
on the topic of softening the steel, quenching is the absolutely last thing you should do for working most metals... i'm unsure about pattern welded steel but your probably not at that point yet anyways.
what i do when i'm done working on the shaping of the metal that day i leave it in the fire and let it cool down as the fire burns itself out, always gives nice soft workable stee lfor my files

[Anonymous No.88430]

>>88220

>What are you considering for a forge?

A combined brake drum/upturned lawnmower fusion set up on a converted metal stand. Should be fairly straightforward. I am a welder after all.

> A hammer?

Not sure, I have various hammers in my workshop. Will probably experiment with what I have first and make or buy a better one as I go along.

> An anvil?

This is my trickiest part. I don't know where to get railroad iron, so I will probably just bolt a sheet of quarter inch steel plate to a stump (or buy a small one from here: http://oldworldanvils.com/anvils/smaller_austrian.html))

> A workspace?

My workspace is the unattached garage behind my house. Kinda sucks as it doesn't have electricity, but what can you do. Whenever I need to use the welder or string some lights I always just run an extension cord from the house.

> A work platform?

. . . a cement floor or my backyard?

> A fire extinguisher?

Got a big one.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88448]

>>88430
Well, you aren't a complete metalworking novice, so you should have a good go at it.
>>What are you considering for a forge?
>A combined brake drum/upturned lawnmower fusion set up on a converted metal stand. Should be fairly straightforward. I am a welder after all.
well, that is the modern route for a first forge. Good enough.
>> A hammer?
>Not sure, I have various hammers in my workshop. Will probably experiment with what I have first and make or buy a better one as I go along.
DO NOT use a claw hammer no matter what. They have a nasty habit of shattering into your face. Ball peen, sledge, and engineers hammers all work great. I prefer ball peen and engineers.
>> An anvil?
>This is my trickiest part. I don't know where to get railroad iron, so I will probably just bolt a sheet of quarter inch steel plate to a stump (or buy a small one from here: http://oldworldanvils.com/anvils/smaller_austrian.html))
Rail makes a horrible anvil because one side is typically curved, and the work surface is small. The plate bolted to the stump if a fairly good stand in until you decide you really want to throw a few hundred dollars at a lump of steel.

[Anonymous No.88449]

>>88180

I bought the box from a yard sale.

This is not cheap ass Chinese 'printed on damascus steel' pattern shit. I forged the blade myself.

Here's another one, handle made from shovel handle, wrapped in electrical tape, reused hilt and tang guard from the original katana that shattered. Very sharp, as you can see. Not cheap-ass 440 stainless. Real carbon steel from leaf springs.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88451]

>>88430
>> A workspace?
>My workspace is the unattached garage behind my house. Kinda sucks as it doesn't have electricity, but what can you do. Whenever I need to use the welder or string some lights I always just run an extension cord from the house.
An unattached garage is great. Don't have to worry about burning down the house so much, and you'll be able to keep the ambient lighting at the proper level for reading steel color under heat.
>>A work platform?
>. . . a cement floor or my backyard?
Just keep hot steel off of cement. The moisture in the pores of the cement can flash boil into steam and crack the cement, and sometimes rapidly enough for it to throw a worrisome chunk straight up.
>>A fire extinguisher?
>Got a big one.
I'd recommend an ABC in case of quenching fire, and because you're stringing out all of your electrics through one cord.

[Anonymous No.88454]

>>88451

I'd recommend class D. Just because you never know when you ignite some piece of magnesium like a n00b thinking it's steel.

Seen many fools in metal shop thinking "I can just melt this strong pure magnesium frame down to get great strong metal!"

LAWL.

Mr. Miller was not amused.

[Anonymous No.88472]

>>87864
Cuate?

[Anonymous No.88485]

>>88454

Holy shit, I had a welding teacher called Mr. Miller.

You aren't from Michigan are you?

[Anonymous No.88510]

>>87967

Pattern welding. Use two steel alloys that are visibly different from each other, and fold them together during forging.

To amplify the visual effect, treat the blade with acid once forging is complete. Do this before grinding out the final edge bevel though as the acid will ruin an existing edge.

[Anonymous No.88707]

umadbro?

[Anonymous No.88719]

>>88449
>>87964
>search ebay for damascus katana
>i dont think so tim

[Anonymous No.88720]

>>88449
>also implying you cant buy real folded carbon steel katanas from china

[Anonymous No.88724]

>>88719
>>88720
>2011
>not using google image search
>not finding http://www.stonerforums.com/lounge/general-discussion/4768-occasion-i-post-up-pics.html
>not laughing at the guy for paying $727 thinking he got a steal because it was advertised at $1500
>not laughing because you can get the same thing on ebay for $100
>not laughing because he doesnt realize it is chinese with that rubber mallet $1 glove, and cheap "sword care kit" and chinese sword stand
>not laughing because this guy has a tiny ego
>ishygddt

[Anonymous No.88732]

Oh man, I was hoping for a thread like this, I just watched a series on Youtube, a guy made a tomahawk head out of a railroad spike.
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrIronman1979
He hasn't posted anything recently but it was interesting none-the-less.

[Anonymous No.88736]

If you really have the gribbie slasher from Zero tolerance. than yes am jealous

[Anonymous No.88739]

why do you really need that kind of sharp knife in a civilized locality unless having the intension to you know...!!!

[Anonymous No.88740]

>>88739
Cut things?

[Anonymous No.88748]

Might as well post my latest one as it's a knife making thread.

[Anonymous No.88749]

Yeah I know I've posted it a million times before.

[Anonymous No.88750]

RE the perfect bevel - The best I've managed was with the blade clamped to a piece of wood so it's easy to maintain a 90 degree angle to the work rest on my bench sander. The work rest can then be angled the required amount, and bla bla bla grinding bevels.

[Anonymous No.88757]

How to kill niggers 101

[Anonymous No.88775]

How long does it take to learn to make functional knives and is it a viable source of income for someone who always does his best to minimize the money he spends?

[Anonymous No.88777]

Also what would be the most all-purpose shape and size for a chisel and (how) could it be (efficiently) integrated into a knife without compromising durability?

[Anonymous No.88793]

>>88777
That's what the idea was behind this one.
>>88749

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88794]

>>88775
No. Metalworking is a very expensive hobby. By the time you make anything worth selling, you'll be hundreds of dollars into the hole.

Professional blacksmiths have to charge $60-$100/hour for their work to remain profitable, and nobody wants to pay that for a novice's knife.

The only way I broke even making tools was to switch to a gas forge and waste oil cupola, making jigs to move from one offs to small production runs, and eventually just making blacksmithing equipment to sell to novices with billfolds thicker than the callouses on their hands.

Keep in mind I started when I was 13, and didn't stop losing money at it until I was 20. I'm sure someone can come along and tell you how they found a niche market right away and made some money, but they'd be lying if they said it made them well off, or weren't damn lucky.

[Anonymous No.88808]

>>88794
why is it so expensive? leaf springs are cheap

[Anonymous No.88870]

>>88025
Me again.
Annealing it and then going at it with a bench grinder and filing afterwards is more dangerous, but quicker. Also- my neighbors are frumpy pieces of sgit who complain because I let my cat out.

[Anonymous No.88876]

>>88794
Fuck being "well off", my goal in life is self-sufficiency with an income. But you're saying that if I find an audience and have the skills, I can at least break even once I'm good enough? Also, I live in Sweden, where the interest for woodcraft is relatively high, due to a little thing we call "Allemansrätten", basically "All-Man's Right" which means that we can go fucking ANYWHERE we want to go and if someone tells you to get out of their private property, we can tell them to eff themselves. Unless it's their immediate lawn. We can even legally camp in any (unless the military owns it) forest area for up to two nights and have the law on our side.

>>88793
I thought so, but the angle of the pictures made me uncertain. So how does it work? Is it an all-purpose shape/angle and does it interfere with regular knife work?

[Anonymous No.88918]

>>88876
>Is it an all-purpose shape/angle and does it interfere with regular knife work?

It had to be pretty thick to be worth of the prying and bashing I had planned for it, so it's a bit heavy (can be a good or a bad thing I suppose) - Also it's chisel ground so some tasks are a bit harder. Some things are easier (it makes a decent makeshift draw knife) but on the whole it's worse off in terms of general 'knife' tasks. However, when you take into account the chisel tip and all the cool shit one can do with it, it seems to be worth it.

Ideally I think it'd be a bit longer and choppier, and be partnered with a smaller more precise knife.

Main bevel is 20 degrees with secondary convex - chisel tip is 30 degrees.

[Anonymous No.88921]

>>88918
>chisel ground

Yea, if you chisel ground a non-food blade, you're an idiot.

[Anonymous No.88922]

My next knife will be a little more normal.

[Anonymous No.88928]

>>88921
It's an experimental knife - it is what it is for the sake of seeing how it preforms (see previous post(.

Because life and stuff is all about trying shit out.

Also: you're retarded.

[Anonymous No.88940]

>>88928

>calling a master metalworker retarded because he called you out on making a retarded decision.

[Anonymous No.88965]

>>88808

The material is the least of your worries. Using scrap metal means a lot more labor and fuel for working the material. Unless you live in a third world country where the average wage is pennies, your time to do the labor is by far the biggest expense.

Professional knife makers (as in the kind that actually make money) don't even forge their own material; they obtain blank sheets of an alloy, like S30V, from a steel mill in the desired thickness and stamp out the blade shape. Then they grind it out and apply the heat treatment.

[Anonymous No.88968]

>Professional knife makers don't even forge their own

That's not a knife maker, that's a Chinese shitjob claiming to be one.

[Anonymous No.88971]

>>88940
Wut.

As a master metalworker you should know that experimentation aint retarded.

[Anonymous No.88972]

>>88971

As a master metalworker I know that you double-bevel for non-food blades.

Moron.

[Anonymous No.88978]

>>88750

Convex edge is best edge.

[Anonymous No.88979]

>>88972
Well I did it, and it still works. Looks like I just blew apart the whole knife making industry. Shiiiiiiiiiit, I'm a god or something.

[Anonymous No.88980]

>>88979
>it still works

But never as well as a properly-beveled blade.

Go home, retard. Ten more years of master classes for you before you even have half a clue.

[Anonymous No.88982]

>>88978
I'm inclined to agree, it's a lot easier to use a jig though - I interpreted "perfect" as in "perfectly executed" rather than "functionally perfect", as that has way to many variables and everyone likes different shit.

I do like convex though.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.88983]

>>88808
Its 2011. Nobody want a knife with an unknown metal grade for anything other than a novelty, because it makes dickwaving more difficult.

>>88876
Any successful business will have a target audience and tailored product before getting started.

The rest of your post came off as entirely off topic. What difference does it make that you want wander around like a drunk?

>>88965
This varies, but the majority of blade makers will always purchase feedstock by alloy type. The exclusive blademaker will often have dies to stamp out a blank blade, either with a brake press, or a power hammer.

Shaping and folding take far too much time to turn a profit unless you have a family coat tail to ride on and put a name that's worth something on the steel.

Grinding, buffing, and honing is the majority of a modern blade maker's labor. It has less to do with smithing than fabrication and welding.

>>88968
They make blades. They're all blade makers.

[Anonymous No.88984]

>>88980
But but but, oh fuck it. canttelliftrollorretarded.jpg etc etc.

[Anonymous No.88986]

>>88972
>>88980

Hunter/Bushcrafter here.

Food prep isn't the only application that eschews beveling.

A good hunting knife is flat ground to a convex edge. Bevels add unnecessary cutting resistance from the sudden changes in angle, and make the edge weaker than it needs to be because there is less material lending the edge strength.

You can say you're a "master metalworker" on the internet but when you demonstrate such ignorance about the subject matter I'm not inclined to believe you.

[Anonymous No.88991]

>>88986

>I'm the sword maker from >>87964
>convex edges don't hold
>concave edges with angle changes make for more lever-applied force for cutting
>have been working metal over 30 years

[Anonymous No.88992]

>>88983
>The rest of your post came off as entirely off topic. What difference does it make that you want wander around like a drunk?
That was just me voicing my hopes that finding customers might be easier since we're actually allowed to legally go out and camp and do stuff like that wherever we want to. And a hope that maybe you'd actually be able to understand this and maybe offer some advice to wether this might indeed be the case or if people who buy handcrafted knives from independent metalsmiths are the kind to go for style rather than substance or vice verse (or maybe bragging rights rather than regular usage or vice verse).

[Anonymous No.88996]

>>88991
>convex edges don't hold
>angle changes make for more lever-applied force
>herp derp maybe if I make up some bullshit nobody will notice it doesn't jive with basic physics

hahaha oh wow

Convex is as strong a cutting edge as you can make. They put them on hard use tools because they hold the best.

Bevels don't act like a cutting "ratchet". They resist your cutting action. A fully flat grind provides the best mechanical advantage as it provides the least resistance and acts as a wedge through the material. Full flat makes for a weak edge though, hence why convex is the better alternative.

[Anonymous No.89000]

>>88991
>30 years

you've been at this for thirty years and still don't know how different grinds work. right...

[Anonymous No.89002]

>>88996
>A fully flat grind provides the best mechanical advantage as it provides the least resistance and acts as a wedge through the material

No, he got you on that one. This is why surgical scalpels use a concave cutting edge.

/surgeon

[Anonymous No.89003]

>>89002
Imagine if your patients knew you're a 4channer.

[Anonymous No.89005]

>>89002

Oh, to add, we won't be using metal very soon. Plasma knives are coming for surgery. Plastic blade, plasma cutting edge.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/7109809

[Anonymous No.89009]

>>89002

Scalpels have no strength. Not that they need it though as they're essentially disposable.

[Anonymous No.89010]

>>89005
Oops, wrong plasma blade. That one is an actual argon-gas plasma blade.

Go look up Peak Surgical for the plastic one.

[Anonymous No.89013]

>>89009
>scalpels have no strength
>can cut through any part of the human body if wielded properly, bone included
>wat.jpg

[Anonymous No.89015]

>>89013

Not the same thing as strength. Cutting through bone, if you can even do it, will destroy your scalpel.

[Anonymous No.89016]

>>89015

Scalpels and similar blades are hard and brittle. very sharp, but the edge is easy to destroy and the blade itself snaps easily.

[Anonymous No.89018]

>>89002

That's not the problem at all. Different tasks take different edges.

This fag keeps going on about double-beveling (which isn't even necessarily hollow grind) for all purposes, which is ignorant bullshit and someone who's been blade crafting for years would know better.

[Anonymous No.89020]

>>89013
I don't know shit about metalsmithing but doesn't that just mean that it's really fucking sharp and thus when in the hands of a skilled surgeon, doesn't need to be very strong since the stress on the edge and metal is extremely low?

[Anonymous No.89021]

Why can't we just get along.

No one cares. Every grind has its place. Every technique has ups and downs. Everyone is anonymous so who cares if you look badass and tell the other guy he's a fool. Bla bla bla I am a massive faggot.

[Anonymous No.89023]

>>89016

Even if it doesn't chip or snap, the edge will ding and roll because it lacks mechanical strength.

But that's because you'd be using the blade wrong. It's shaped and ground the way it is for the specific purpose of slicing through soft tissue.

[Anonymous No.89025]

>>89021
>Bla bla bla I am a massive faggot
Couldn't have said it better myself. No offense meant. But as much as they're insulting each other's integrity and skill, they are giving reasons and opinions.

[Anonymous No.89036]

>>89025
None taken. Internet is funny like that.

[Anonymous No.89039]

>>89023

Steel is harder than bone. Even rappily-made austenite-tainted blades will be harder than bone on the Moh's hardness scale.

The edge won't roll or anything. It goes through if (again) wielded properly.

[Anonymous No.89047]

>>89039

Hardness does not work that way.

Even a blade made of D2 tool steel will still dull on tissue paper.

Being harder than the material you're cutting through does not grant invulnerability to wear. No matter how hard the metal, some of it still sloughs off, but more importantly in this case it is still subject to lateral stress that will deform the edge regardless of how soft bone is.

[Anonymous No.89060]

Feel free to reuse or edit.

[Anonymous No.89077]

>>89039
That must be while solid tungsten carbide planer blades never dull on pine softwood. Waitaminu...

[Anonymous No.89081]

>>88449
>>87964
>google image search
You bought that piece of crap for $727 thinking you got a good deal. Also
>implying you can forge a sword but when the first handle breaks the best you can do it tape on a bat handle

[Anonymous No.89084]

>>89047

Tissue paper is primarily silica, which is harder than steel. Naturally, it will dull.

I am a lapidary. I work with the sharpest and hardest stuff on the planet.

[Anonymous No.89088]

>>89077

>solid WC planar blades
>get dull

>mfw I cut concrete with the same WC disc blade and it never gets dull, even chews right thru rebar

[Anonymous No.89090]

>>89084
You should also add that Mohs isn't used as an industrial scale for cutting tools, and style is a matrix and not homogenous.

[Anonymous No.89093]

>>89077

They'll still dull if you use them long enough. Nothing is immune to entropy.

You're conflating how long a material lasts in a given application to outright invulnerability.

And you still haven't addressed mechanical stress that is largely independent of the hardness of the material being cut.

>>89084

It need not necessarily be, but replace tissue paper with meat or a standing tree and the result is still the same.

[Anonymous No.89096]

>>89088
Congratulations for having 1 year or less experience on a construction site.

[Anonymous No.89099]

>>89093
What I meant that tungsten carbide blades do dull. I'm not that other guy.

[Anonymous No.89101]

>>89088

Cutting discs don't work because they're sharp. They work because they rotate at high RPM and are hard.

>>89099

Oh, well then pardon my poor reading comprehension.

[Anonymous No.89106]

>Cutting discs don't work because they're sharp. They work because they rotate at high RPM and are hard.
And they still wear down. This is why you find them in the consumables department of hardware stores instead of replacement parts.

[Anonymous No.89791]

bump for more arguing about grinds.

[Anonymous No.89806]

i have been making a few knives over the past couple years and i usually end up doing flat grinds with microbevels. i don't know if something else would work better, but they work pretty well for batoning wood and can do pretty much any tasks lighter than that

[Anonymous No.89880]

>>89101
No pardon necessary, good sir.
So does anyone know what kind of audience is most willing to pay for man-made knives?

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.89901]

>>89880
The same type of manchild that sees value in a paracord bracelet.

[Anonymous No.89906]

>>89901
I've never heard of a paracord bracelet before. But it doesn't bode well.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.89910]

>>89906
Well, their logic goes something like:
>check it out, brah, its a paracord bracelet!
>aww sweet, brah, never know when you'll need some paracord
>yeah, brah, you can save the world with paracord
>I'm gonna get three and save three worlds, brah!
Just convince them they need to be able to cut paracord. Have a shitty chinese knife on hand for comparison. Fold a burr into it if you buy one that was sharpened well enough for the job at the factory. These guys won't know a thing.

[Anonymous No.89918]

>>89910
You, good sir, are a scholar and a gentleman. I salute you.
How do I justify this? Because that kind of sucker will keep on getting suckered until he's been suckered enough to learn his lesson. So I'm doing him a favour AND he's getting a new knife.

[truckerfag !!xXmBuWkIT3n No.89941]

>>89918
You're saving the world. What more justification do you need? Just throw in the terms:
>beveled
>heat treated
>tempered
>crafted
>made in USA
liberally and you're set.