/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.834237]

Sup, /diy/. Anyone here got particular expertise with regard to old sewing machines? I picked one up at a flea market, after some extensive cleaning/reoiling and replacing a few moving parts, I've got it functioning great. Sewing forwards, it works like a motherfucker, really strong and a good stitch.

However, when I try to backtrack or sew backwards, it does >pic related. pulls the bottom thread all up in big loops, the top thread just runs flat on the surface. Its 100% unusable, and its really frustrating me.
I've tried fucking with the upper tension, making it both high and low, with no real effect. I don't know enough about the mechanics of these older machines (and the mechanics of it sewing in reverse) to do a whole lot of troubleshooting beyond that.

Anyone help me out?

[Anonymous No.834248]

>>834237
Sounds like your lower tension needs adjusting too. It would help if you posted the make and model number. I could probably find a manual for you if you did. Why you'd even leave that out I don't know.

[Anonymous No.834249]

>>834248
sorry, I was thinking this was a more "general old sewing machine" question and forgot the relevant details. Its a New Home model NLB. I have the manual, and thats the reason I havent fucked with the lower tension, as the manual says that it's "VERY delicate" and basically that you shouldn't mess with it as it was set in the factory.
Also, since the tension is 100% great going forward, I don't see how it should need adjusting. Does that mean you have to stop the machine, take out the bobbin, adjust the spring every time you back up on your work? that would suck.

[Anonymous No.834250]

>>834249
*Also since the LOWER tension

from what I've gathered the upper tension should be the only one that gets adjusted when changing sewing styles. At least thats what the manual says

[Anonymous No.834251]

>>834249
Are the dogs operating correctly while in reverse?

[Anonymous No.834258]

>>834251
I think so? they shift position when I switch the lever to reverse, and the material feeds properly in reverse too.

[Anonymous No.834505]

>>834237
Why are you sewing long distances in reverse? Typically that's just done to lock the stitch... not understanding what you're trying to achieve here.

> If it sews OK forward, does tension really need changed?

[Anonymous No.834512]

>>834237
I had a machine back in HS that my teacher let me use for sewing a pair of sails for a project. that did this exact thing. I was only 16 at the time and I didn't really care to "research" it. Just left the needle down, lifted the foot, spun the piece around. put it on zigzag. ran it for like 4 zags. then called it good.

[Anonymous No.834520]

>>834249
>New Home model NLB
That there is an old machine. Appears quite strong. Saw youtube vid of a guy sewing 6 layers of denim with one.

Uses an unusual needle FYI:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=24548

[Anonymous No.834645]

>>834505
Not long distances, but I like to backtrack a good few inches when doing heavy-duty stuff like handles on backpacks. and I cant reverse at all, which makes it shitty to lock stitches anyway.

>>834520
Yeah I love it so far. Really strong motor. I gather mine is from between 1943 and 1953. I found it at a flea market, asked the guy if it worked, he said no. I did some looking, and realized that the cord inside was unplugged. Lel. Since it "didn't work", I got the machine, plus about 30 attachments, plus a pack of 20 extra needles, plus the original manual, for... $20. I was so happy.

[kg No.834794]

>>834645
I see a bobbin, not the bobbin case. Does it look like Singer? Take another pic for us.

If it's sewing well forward but not back, I'm tempted to say tension is not your issue. Wondering if you've got the bobbin in the case threaded backward... just not familiar with those machines.

[Anonymous No.834809]

>>834794
I didn't take the bobbin case out for that picture, that's just all the accessories it came with.

Its not a Singer, its a New Home. The bobbin is threaded correctly, at least it is exactly done as the manual said.

[Anonymous No.834811]

>>834809
So you have nothing that looks like this that the bobbin mounts in?

[Anonymous No.834817]

>>834811
I do, but that is mounted in the machine in that pic. The bobbin you see there is an extra that came with the machine when i bought it.

[Anonymous No.834826]

Sounds like a lower tension issue to me. They do need to be adjusted from time to time. A 50+ year old machine will likely need to be adjusted. Plus you never know what the previous owner did.

[kg No.834838]

>>834809
So, basically the way you set a singer lower bobbin tension is to load bobbin case with bobbin and thread it. Holding thread, lightly bounce the bobbin case and bobbin. It should let out a little thread, but not hit the floor.

No thread out, too tight.
Hits floor, too loose.

Assume yours is similar. I don't think tension is your issue, but something to check.

[Anonymous No.834843]

Is it okay to hijack the thread for a bit? I need some basic sewing machine advice.

I'm thinking about getting a sewing machine. I have a few projects in mind, most will involve tent fabric, one might include stepping thick wool or linen between cotton layers. And I'm not sure what I should be looking for.

What are some basic features to look out for?
How crucial is the length of the arm?
Are many different stitches really necessary? - What are they useful for?

I will not be making fashion, although I might be making a few medieval clothes. The machine will not be in much use, but it should hold up through a few weeks of daily work every year. I think an old model, bought used will do it. But I'm not sure if there are reasons to avoid used machines.

Has anyone owned a few and is willing to share their two cents?

[Anonymous No.834850]

>>834843
get a disposable singer from target or walmart for ~ 100.

[Anonymous No.834852]

you kids with your new fangled fancy reverse stitch.

needle down, foot up, spin material around, foot down, stitch, needle down, foot up, right material, foot down, continue.

[Anonymous No.834853]

>>834843
>Go to your local thrift store.
>Find a sewing machine for under $20.
>Sew

[Anonymous No.834856]

>>834843
Any of the zig-zag Singer sewing machines will do you as long as they have a metal shell. The super old Singer strait stitchers will also work well but they are harder to find in good condition and most wingnuts are trying to sell them for way more than they are worth because they are 'antique'. Get a Singer 400 or 500 series if you can. 300s are also good. Low number 600 series are okay but its downhill from there.

[Anonymous No.834864]

>>834843
Thrift stores.

Just in this last week I have seen 3-4 japanese zig zag whites/brother machines, 2 italian made Necchis, a Riccar, about four 70s singers ("stylists" or "touch and sews" but stay away from those if you can help it).

None were over 40$ most were around $10-20.

I have several sewing machines, including my beloved Singer 401a that I got for 20$.

Just go out and look, most old machines are seen as worthless while they are much better than cheap stuff you find at walmart for 4 times the price. A quick oiling and maybe an easy rewiring brings them back to life.

[Anonymous No.834957]

>>834852
Sometimes we must work with materials that can't be spun around on the machine. What then, old man?

[Anonymous No.834980]

>>834864
I found a Kenmore 148:15600. This model was made by Soryu and takes most Singer accesories. Not much plastic on it and built like a small tank.
$25 and it looked almost new when opened up.
Picked up a Singer 360K knitting machine for the same price from the same store a couple years earlier.

[Anonymous No.835001]

>>834852
this is exactly what I said...

>>834512

and thanks OP. your thread reminded me yesterday to take out my machine and repair it. [timing got fucked up some how, still unknown how.]

[Anonymous No.835153]

>>835001
...except often, the piece cannot be spun around in the machine. I do a lot of backpack/bike bag making stuff, and a majority of the seams I sew involve the material in a position where it can't be spun around. I rely pretty heavily on being able to backtrack, especially on heavy seams where I might need to do 3-4 passes.

[Anonymous No.836284]

>>834237
My old Swedish machine from 40's or 50's doesn't play nice with new thin polyester threads. Try buying the tickest threads you can find. My machine only does straight stitches and it sometimes does the same thing as yours but I haven't noticed it depending on wheter or not using reverse.

[Anonymous No.836287]

>>836284
huh that's something I hadn't thought about. I'll look into different thread types on forums and stuff and see if anyone had the same problem as me. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.836325]

>>834237
your feed dog might be off it's timing.

[Anonymous No.836340]

>>834237
OP this looks like a thread tension issue.

[Anonymous No.836369]

>>836340
wow nice graphic. thanks!

[Anonymous No.836389]

most people don't need a thread tension gauge, but if you repair machines, or have an old machine you might want to keep your eye out for one. especially if you work with leather or heavy materials or change thread sizes frequently.
makes it easy to balance the upper and lower tension

[Anonymous No.836415]

>>836389
rad I'll look into it. I"m confused why the tension would be okay going forward but not backward, but its worth checking out