/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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/ohm/ - Electronics General: Tinkering Edition Anonymous Sat May 23 07:08:43 2015 No.816071 [Reply] [Original]

Old thread:
>>806660
>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?

There are several good books that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more. There are also plenty of good Youtube channels that teach

about the basics as well as advanced concepts. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. Take

something apart or build something you find cool on one of the many electronics websites.

>What books are there?

Beginner books:

Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

Intermediate books:

All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide by Harry Kybett, Earl Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors by Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

Advanced books:
The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz

>What Youtube channels are there?

mljorton the bald fag0t: youtube.com/watch?v=F_5sV8s9ZEA
$50 Multimeters: youtube.com/watch?v=ZoeUgMFLyAw
Soddering: youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
Tools: youtube.com/watch?v=R_PbjbRaO2E
Neon Night: youtube.com/watch?v=m6IHVlwL_N0

>What websites feature electronics projects? Where can I get ideas for projects?

adafruit.com/
instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
makezine.com/category/electronics/

>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?

digikey.com
jameco.com/
sparkfun.com/
ramseyelectronics.com/
allelectronics.com/
futurlec.com/
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html
mouser.com
alliedelec.com
newark.com
ebay

>What circuit sim software do you use?

This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:

NI Multisim
LTSpice
CircuitLab
iCircuit for Macs

>What software should I use to print circuits

Circuit Wizard
ExpressPCB
EAGLE

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sat May 23 07:25:00 2015 No.816073 Obligatory complaining about the OP post.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 07:34:33 2015 No.816074 >>816073 Why you complaining, son? Everythings 'been fine-tuned at the moment

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 08:01:58 2015 No.816078 Which book/books would you suggest for antennas and antenna design?

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 09:01:30 2015 No.816086 >>816071 Start with audio oscillators instead, it's very interesting and rewarding >>816078 antenna construction are cool too but theory is definitively not

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 09:53:45 2015 No.816091 >>816086 >antenna Don't we have neural nets that can design antennas (antennae?) for us now? Check the NASA open source thingy, they might have released the software for the antenna generator.

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sat May 23 10:07:01 2015 No.816098 File: 1.39 MB, 2592x1456, WP_20150523_15_58_57_Pro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Finished, wee.

Anonymous Sat May 23 10:56:43 2015 No.816115
File: 143 KB, 1080x1095, Norman Rockwell - The Watchmaker.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>816071
>That pic

Look at those children hunched over with eyes about two feet from what they're working on and their faces in the fumes. When you're doing precision work like soldering things get much easier when your table is up at shoulder level.

My little brother won at skills canada soldering by always putting down a stack of textbooks instead of hunching over on a regular school desk like the other children.

Anonymous Sat May 23 17:12:31 2015 No.816277

I'm looking for a cheap solution to detect linear displacement. The application is basically a piston moving up and down a shaft, the position of the piston needs to be reported at a reasonably high rate (>500hz). An LVDT or a string pot is too expensive. Any ideas?

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 17:20:35 2015 No.816280 Is there a way to buy the ESP8266 IC only? I can only find the entire board in Mouser, Digikey, Sparkfun, etc.

Anonymous Sat May 23 17:37:10 2015 No.816283
File: 105 KB, 626x493, esp8266module_types.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>816280
You can but the standalone chip is ususally more expensive than the full board. I personally buy esp8266-01's and simply add 2x4 pin female headers to my boards.

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-ESP8266-new-version-of-the-chip-erial-WIFI-wireless-module-wireless-transceiver/431798_2036281998.html

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 17:40:28 2015 No.816284 >>816277 Some optical thingy, either analog or digital? Inductor with a moving core? Capacitive measurement? More info needed.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 17:49:38 2015 No.816288 >>816283 I can't understand why a single separate chip can cost more than a whole dev board.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 17:52:39 2015 No.816291 >>816288 Probably because they get it cheaper for buying it in super large quantities. buying 1 single chip is always "expensive".

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 19:43:40 2015 No.816328 >>816277 an optical mouse would detect shaft movement (or a stick attached to the shaft) if you could decode the USB or serial data. I think some mice can do 500 updates per second.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 19:45:46 2015 No.816329 >>816328 or you could use the mouse wheel, and simply count pulses, no decoding required.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 21:02:04 2015 No.816342 >>816071 >He changed the youtube channels Why? you left out some good channels.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 23:23:16 2015 No.816384 >>816342 >Obligatory complaining about the OP post.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 23:25:32 2015 No.816385 >>816384 Of course I'm going to complain if you make it worse.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 23 23:37:54 2015 No.816387 Is there a good way to measure the inductance of unknown inductors? I have a bunch I've salvaged but I need a certain inductance value for a circuit I'm building. I read of how to do it with an oscilloscope but I don't have one of those on hand.

Anonymous Sat May 23 23:51:22 2015 No.816396

>>816071
I made my own post about this but I should've just used this general, my bad.

I was about to order these pixels for my matrix project:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/12mm-UCS1903-WS2811-similar-to-WS2801-pixel-module-IP66-IP68-waterproof-DC5V-full-color-50pcs-a/1269951567.html
Anybody see anything wrong with them?
I see that they are either UCS1903 IP66 or WS2811 IP68, but I chose WS2811 because they are more documented/what I was looking for.
And the 10 lumens max on white kinda scares me, I'm not too familiar with lumens but it seems dimmer than I was hoping.
And the broken English...
Basically, am I getting cheated/scammed in any way for this purchase? (The shipping is domestic, not from China)
Would I be able to return these easily if it were a scam? (I've never used AliExpress)

Anonymous Sun May 24 02:03:54 2015 No.816432
File: 2.32 MB, 4128x2322, psu2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>814749
>>814784
Me again.

As it turns out, I won't be able to do a symmetrical power supply since I don't have enough room in the case I really want to use.
So, I'll just stick with 12v and upgrade as soon as I need more voltage or do the wall wart thing the other anon suggested.

Also, a side note about the snapped fuse on the side... I tried to cut a piece of that PCB off so I could squeeze my perfboard in there but unfortunately I snapped the fuse connector in half so I'll have to resolder that somewhere. I'll post pics once I'm done.

I also ordered a nibbler online so I could cut more holes in my case for my voltmeter panel

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 02:05:23 2015 No.816434 File: 2.14 MB, 4128x2322, psu preconstruction.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816432 Here's the front of my case, it's an old KVM switch. I really like the look of it.

Anonymous Sun May 24 02:52:51 2015 No.816453

>>816387
You could build an inductance meter. IIRC this design >>816098 measures inductors as well and isn't that complex.
Or you could buy an inductance meter. China cheap.
Or if you want to nigger-rig something, you can try using your PC as a signal generator/oscilloscope combination. This limits your inductance range, though.

The thing is that pretty often inductance value alone isn't enough to tell if the inductor is suitable.Personally I salvage only small inductors which have inductance values marked on them. They're bit more predictable.

Anonymous Sun May 24 04:33:10 2015 No.816464
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>>816434
>>816432
Welp, I soldered everything together except for the regulator portion and everything seems to work well. Better than I expected, to boot.

My fluke wasn't flickering between voltages very much. It was consistently at 18.6v which is actually higher than I thought I'd get out of it. I was expecting around 14v at most.

>>816453
I decided to use a power choke I found inside an old power supply. The PSU I took it from was a 12v supply I believe and their filter looked similar to mine so I'm going to assume this one is good enough.

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 05:20:01 2015 No.816478 File: 1.38 MB, 2592x1456, WP_20150524_11_07_40_Pro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816453 Yup, Inductance too.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 05:41:20 2015 No.816484 >>816478 Sir Tripfaggot, if that's a single-layer air cored coil, your meter lies about three orders of magnitude.

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 05:56:31 2015 No.816487 >>816484 What's the sort of value I should be expecting? I just coiled it up to see if anything shows up. The capacitance part of the meter is perfectly accurate though.

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 05:58:22 2015 No.816488 >>816484 I used an online calculator thing to work out the rough value from the size and it's about right.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 06:11:08 2015 No.816497 >>816487 About microhenry, assuming your coil has around 15 turns and the diameter is 10mm or so. Find a better calculator. There are lots of them.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 06:17:25 2015 No.816498 >>816487 >What's the sort of value I should be expecting? Goddamit, Swifts! For the love of god

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 06:18:11 2015 No.816499 >>816497 Hmm, looks like you're right. Strange really, considering the first calculator is the first result on Google.

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 06:22:36 2015 No.816501 Well if you ignore the decimal point, the value is perfectly correct. Which is strange as hell. I wonder what I messed up...

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 07:59:01 2015 No.816515 File: 1.37 MB, 2592x1456, WP_20150524_13_51_55_Pro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Atleast one side works ;_;

Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 09:09:03 2015 No.816530
File: 1.41 MB, 2592x1456, WP_20150524_15_02_44_Pro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Well.. I did some more testing.

Found a coil with a core in it and once again used an internet calculator to work out the value, with the result being 11.4 mH

Assuming I calculated this correctly.

Anonymous Sun May 24 12:58:54 2015 No.816587

I have a chip that needs programming and I want to make a separate board that attaches the programmer to the chip without requiring the chip to be soldered down. I don't want to order a socket from china because that will take forever.

I'm thinking of cutting a chip sized section out of some perfboard and layering it on top of another perfboard then filling in the holes on the bottom of the bottom perfboard with solder. I'm worried that my soldering won't be level with the chip and it won't make solid connections. Does anyone have any more reliable ideas?

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 13:02:34 2015 No.816589 >>816587 Do you have a breadboard? Why not use that. You'll end up buying one eventually anyways.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 13:09:06 2015 No.816593 >>816589 you can buy a stack of 10 perfboards for 3 bucks + they are more compact which is important if you aren't planning on redoing the prototype board

Anonymous Sun May 24 13:13:24 2015 No.816597

>>816530
That doesn't sound exactly convincing either. Instead of using the ferrite material's permeability, you have to use the core's effective permeability. It's pretty low, since the magnetic circuit is mostly air. Effective permeability of around 10 would be typical.

www.magneticsgroup.com/pdf/erods.pdf

Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Sun May 24 13:16:52 2015 No.816601

>>816597
I'll be in school tomorrow, so I'll have access to a proper LC meter and I'll do some testing with that.

It's really strange though, I re-checked my components and everything is as it should be.

Also as far as I can tell the only calibration options I have are for fixing up the Capacitance reading, which came out basically perfect the moment I fired it up.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 13:30:49 2015 No.816609 >>816601 >a proper LC meter Yeah, much better idea than playing with math. Assuming the design is what I think it is, I don't remember seeing any other calibration options than the reference capacitor, either.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 15:07:44 2015 No.816628 >>816593 Not him but, 10 perfboards for $3? Hows the quality on them and how big? I just bought these and I thought these were quite cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARTP1J4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 17:21:28 2015 No.816677 Turns out my zener breaks down at 15v. I put 16 through it and my pot let the magic smoke out. That'll teach me not to use zeners when I need to use rectifying.

Anonymous Sun May 24 18:15:52 2015 No.816703
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What's a decent soldering station for 230v yuros? I currently have a garbage weller firestarter that literally melts its own tips and corrodes in less than 10 seconds making it unusable.

I'd really like to just buy a Hakko FX888D but the 230v version is way too difficult to get and I feel like i'm getting scammed when the 110v version is so cheap in comparison.

My budget is about 250$

Anonymous Sun May 24 19:16:50 2015 No.816743

>>816628
Not him, but IME those really cheap phenolic perfboards are pretty nasty and make it difficult to form good joints.

>>816703
Weller make good stations (eg. wesd51) and you can find tips and spares everywhere. Have a look at Ayoue, they have a decent presence in Europe.

>>	THE GOD MACHINE Sun May 24 19:19:18 2015 No.816745 File: 87 KB, 640x640, colonel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816677 >I put 16 through it and my pot let the magic smoke out.

Anonymous Sun May 24 19:21:55 2015 No.816748

>>816743
Eh those perf boards are nice for quick and dirty projects. Especially when you're on a budget.
I don't have a job atm so my disposable income is pretty much zilch.

>>816745
As it turns out, it wasn't the diode. I thought it was at first but I actually had the Adj and Vout on my regulator flipped.
Oops.

Anonymous Sun May 24 20:35:42 2015 No.816781

>>816703
There are several people on the ineterwebs that have converted 110v FX888Ds for just this reason. It seems to be a pretty simple coil swap. Maybe look into that? Heres a link that might be useful.

http://blog.bogpeople.com/2014/09/hakko-fx888d-110v-to-220v-conversion.html

Anonymous Sun May 24 21:33:06 2015 No.816793
File: 29 KB, 1183x687, 2015-05-24_15-07-04.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Aight, first time fucking around with timers. Decided to dick around in multisim first before burning out any (real pain in the ass to drive to the store right now)

I have no idea why this ain't making the LED blink. Can someone enlighten me?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 21:39:18 2015 No.816795 Take every form of math, then take intro to being a stupid cunt in electronics. You'll understand everything. None of this 'hole flow' bullshit or 15 element communications equations so you can balance an FM transmitter. MATH ASSHOLE.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 21:44:08 2015 No.816797 >>816793 http://denethor.wlu.ca/common/capacitor_polarity.pdf ?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 21:48:34 2015 No.816798 If you're asking about "electronics" what you're really saying is technician. You don't want that. Go for Electrician, you'll make way more money and your job is secure. If you're mathematically inclined do electrical engineering with a shit load in CS.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 21:50:10 2015 No.816800 >>816703 Is cgi.ebay.com/181748605528 a fake? The price looks very reasonable.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:03:28 2015 No.816801 File: 1.74 MB, 2448x3264, 2015-05-24 20.59.45.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Before I plug this in, this is how this is supposed to go right? Don't want to explode my apartment. Fuse is 1 amp fast blow. >please be gentle

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:13:30 2015 No.816802 >>816800 If its brand new then go for it. Looks legit hakko >>816801 Whats the purpose of that thing?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:30:37 2015 No.816805 >>816802 Just to step down mains to 24 VAC.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:31:07 2015 No.816807 >>816530 That can't be right OP L should be much higher.

Anonymous Sun May 24 22:36:19 2015 No.816808

>>816801
Looks correct to me. Usually you use brown for active and blue for neutral (America/China/Australia) but if you are the only one maintaining this then all good.
Potentially insulate the solder joints on IEC connector.
Perform smoke test if you're confident the transformer is wired correctly. Use a long cable and wear glasses, transformers do expload if wired incorrectly

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:37:44 2015 No.816809 >>816801 >>816805 >>816808 Oh also you don't need the center tap of the transformer. Its two sets of 12 volts, so just measure red - red

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:44:10 2015 No.816812 >>816808 Yeah this is just a personal prototype. And all I had was black wire. >transformers do explode Because I wasn't already afraid to plug it in... I just noticed that it says 120 VAC in. Just to make sure, that's safe for US mains right?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 22:45:55 2015 No.816814 >>816809 My ultimate intent is to use this to build a proper split supply. After regulation and smoothing I don't think I'll get much more than +7 VDC and -7 VDC out of it.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 24 23:42:06 2015 No.816827 >>816814 Alright I plugged it in and turned it on. 31.5 VAC with no load on it between red and red, which is nominal for this transformer. What other fun shit can I do with a 24 volt transformer?

Anonymous Mon May 25 00:17:11 2015 No.816846
File: 3.06 MB, 3840x2160, DSC_0039.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>816827
I have a dual (negative/positive) supply I built out of a 30v transformer with center tap that I made.
Case is a computer power supply which was fried, parts are all scavenged from work. I have led voltmeters to put on the front but I'm lazy.

Anonymous Mon May 25 00:26:16 2015 No.816849

>>816846
I have a nice 2-gang potentiometer that I might use to make the whole thing adjustable. As far as the enclosure goes, I'm thinking about finishing it functionally, then keeping with the wood thing. Maybe dovetail a nice box, have a hatch with cabinet hinges. So you could open it up to a sort of wooden ring to be accessed from both sides. Probably overkill.

>but wood has a terrible--
It's 30 volts. Not too worried about dielectric breakdown.

I also want to add another switch between the 24 VAC and the regulator, and a few indicator lights.

Where do you get those panel voltmeters?

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 02:10:32 2015 No.816881 File: 1.33 MB, 2448x3264, 2015-05-25 01.05.09.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816849 Well now I know what that sounds like...

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 03:09:07 2015 No.816889 File: 691 KB, 1000x1339, IMG_0957.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] How would I go about troubleshooting this circuit? Specifically the mosfets (two 8-pin and one 16-pin). I've checked the capacitors and they're all going fine.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 03:36:57 2015 No.816896 >>816889 If the surrounding circuit prevents you from checking them, then you need to temporarily remove them. The most typical failure mode would be a short circuit.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 03:37:53 2015 No.816898 >>816896 Which pins do I want to check to see if it's got a short circuit?

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 03:54:00 2015 No.816901 >>816898 It doesn't matter how they are shorted. There shouldn't be shorts between source, drain or gate. If they're burned, drain-source short is quite likely, though. Keep the gate connected to source when checking drain-source short.

Anonymous Mon May 25 04:01:15 2015 No.816903
File: 133 KB, 395x580, ss (2015-05-25 at 05.58.55).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>816901
Using diode test with a DMM everything circled in white connects to eachother negative or positive it doesn't matter. If I put negative anywhere on the white and positive on the red it also connects but not vice-versa.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 04:08:40 2015 No.816904 >>816903 You can expect a parasitic diode from source to drain, but it's just a diode, not a short. Find the datasheet for your fets, so that you don't need to guess what is what.

Anonymous Mon May 25 04:35:40 2015 No.816906
File: 2.71 MB, 720x406, 2015-05-25_03-18-58_163_1.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

sup /diy/, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to fixing electronics in general (although not clueless), so bear with me.

I recently inherited a fuckhuge CRT projector for literally nothing (save the rugburn on my knuckles from moving it). apparently it had a bulb out. I figured those wouldn't be too hard to replace. upon turning the TV on, I immediately noticed the lack of red. cool, so the red bulb is out. guess I'll open the TV and get a part number. so I take the big back off (fairly painless, actually). and my little shit cat sits on the remote, turning the TV on (I know, I know). I hear it fire up, and pic related happens.

so the bulb very clearly isn't burnt out, unless projector TV bulbs operate differently or something. any ideas? it's a Zenith set.

Anonymous Mon May 25 05:39:08 2015 No.816916
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My bathroom doesn't have any exhaust fan which is annoying and problematic. It does have this grate vent above the window though. I was thinking about slapping a couple 80mm PC fans on there to use as ventilation fans. What would be the best way to wire and power them?

Thoughts?

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 05:48:21 2015 No.816919 >>816916 >What would be the best way to wire and power them? Reverse the polarity so that the fan would "exhaust" instead of blowing in your face.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 06:20:38 2015 No.816925 >>816916 A 12 volt power supply plugged into a wall outlet and wired to the fans.

Anonymous Mon May 25 06:22:18 2015 No.816927
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>>816916

replace the light fixture with one that incorporates a 120V socket, so you can plug in a 12V charger. alternately, if the fixture is large enough, you can wire a transformer inside it.

Anonymous Mon May 25 07:35:41 2015 No.816929

>>816916
You want something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/c/bathrooms-kitchens/bathroom-extractor-fans/cat840654

By time you've fiddled around putting a light with 120v sockets up (which is dangerous in a room full of moisture) you'd be better of doing it the proper way. Using computer fans is just a complete bodge.

Anonymous Mon May 25 07:44:34 2015 No.816931

>>816929
Here any permanent cabling requires you to get an electrician in. I can't make any permanent alterations anyway.
There's already a powerpoint below that window I can use.

Do any of those extractor fans you linked run off wall sockets? If it's cheaper to go that route then I may as well.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 10:21:52 2015 No.816966 File: 8 KB, 1145x621, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Just a novice here trying to get my head around some basic concepts, in this diagram, that capacitor would charge to the reverse voltage of the diode and nomore yeah?

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 10:38:45 2015 No.816968 >>816966 >schottky You mean zener? Yes.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 10:52:42 2015 No.816973 >>816968 Fuck, Yes.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 11:00:33 2015 No.816976 >>816966 Yes, as long as the current is enough to make the diode work but not too high to destroy it.

Anonymous Mon May 25 11:58:05 2015 No.816989
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>>816703
>>816743
>>816781

I can get the:
Hakko FX888D-S for 216$,
OKI PS-900 for 284$,
Ersa ANA 60 for 309$,
Ersa RDS 80 for 310$
or a generic xytronic for much less.

Is it worth paying 100$ more for a Ersa? And is temperature control really that important? I'm asking because the OKI / Metcall soldering irons seem really nice.

Anonymous Mon May 25 12:27:24 2015 No.816992

>>816989
>is temperature control really that important?
As a way to keep the tip temperature constant? It is a very nice feature, meaning that the iron won't overheat on standby or cool down excessively when soldering. It makes the whole "X watt iron" stuff irrelevant, as long as you have enough power for your biggest soldering jobs. It also means that you need to spend much less time on maintaining your tips, as they won't burn to shit in 10 minutes.
Is it worth the money is something only you can decide.

As a knob you can turn?
Different people, different tastes. I rarely bother to change the temp, but some people like to do that, depending on the job in hand.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 12:48:58 2015 No.817000 >>816992 My thinking is that I will probably never change the temperature. So the OKI / Metcal soldering irons seem great.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 13:42:19 2015 No.817016 >>816931 They do once you put a plug on them.

Anonymous Mon May 25 14:10:05 2015 No.817025

>>816464
Me again, doing a semi final test with everything in its case.

https://youtu.be/YzckIRc9Rng

I was going to make a symmetrical power supply, but it seems that I don't have enough room in my case.
Also, I'm still waiting on my diodes and my nibbler to come in so I won't be completely done with this half until then. I'll probably make a second separate power supply to use alongside this one rather than making two symmetrical power supplies inside one case. I may make the other power supply a switch mode power supply if I can get my hands on the parts then just use the two together if I need more voltage.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 15:29:33 2015 No.817077 What happens when I just combine three 12v 17amp power rails? Will I get the equivalent of one 12v 51Amp cable?

Anonymous Mon May 25 15:35:07 2015 No.817079

>>817077
Putting power sources in parallel isn't so simple. One will have a slightly higher voltage than the other two and be the main source of current for the load. Balancing resistors are how you fix this. With batteries the internal resistance is usually enough to take care of it for you.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 18:26:47 2015 No.817139 >>816800 Probably, I don't think Hakko does their manufacturing in China, but they're cloned out the ass there.

>>	Anonymous Mon May 25 18:35:25 2015 No.817146 >>816989 $310 for an RDS80 is taking the piss. http://www.amazon.de/dp/B0009QX386 Otherwise it's an OK station, though changing tips when hot is a bit of a pain. Also consider buying second hand.

msp430anon Tue May 26 02:16:46 2015 No.817302
File: 472 KB, 2048x1356, lcdmsp430.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i have pic related. I need to send 0x38 to the lcd to get it to display 2 lines. LCD is currently uninitialized and only shows one dark line.
>pic sorta related. it doesnt show any data lines hooked up but trust me i got the data and control pins all connected. just never took a pic of it.

I want to initialize it and set up the LCD so i can do cool things with it.
How do i send a hex code to the LCD? Im trying to do it by simply saying P1OUT = 0x38. Would this work assuming i have everything wired correctly?
Im using an MSP430 uC and a lumex 16x2 lcd display.

Will post timing diagrams and initialization process from datasheet if necessary.

Anonymous Tue May 26 02:58:18 2015 No.817308

>>817302
>Im trying to do it by simply saying P1OUT = 0x38
You need to clock it in to the right register. There are 3 additional pins for doing that.

>Will post timing diagrams and initialization process from datasheet if necessary.
No. Google an example, if the datasheet is difficult to understand. There are lots and lots of them. Alternatively, google a datasheet for some other HD44780 based module, if your current datasheet is difficult to understand.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 03:02:50 2015 No.817310 >>817302 >trust me I don't. Almost all character LCD displays use a HD47780 compatible controller, there's a literal fuckton of info and code available. If you can't even figure out Google, programming maybe isn't for you.

msp430anon Tue May 26 03:09:37 2015 No.817313
File: 126 KB, 642x628, INITsequence.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817308
>>817308
I know RS needs to be in instruction mode and R/W needs to be write.
This means they both need to be low for this initialization process. Additionally I need to "strobe" the Enable pin. im assuming E, RS and R/W are the 3 pins you are talking about?

>>	msp430anon Tue May 26 03:12:47 2015 No.817314 >>817310 where did see me mention anything about compatibility?

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 03:21:03 2015 No.817318 >>817314 >where did see me I'm not interested in milking the relevant information out of you. Either provide it or figure it out yourself.

msp430anon Tue May 26 03:35:54 2015 No.817323

>>817318
stop smoking crack. wtf are you talking about?

take a look at this website: http://inst.eecs.berkeley.edu/~ee40/calbot/webpage/ProgrammingLCD.htm

specifically section IV about programming the LCD about halfway down the page.

>Let's do that. To send an instruction, we want to set RS and R/W both low and wait:

>P3 = 0x00;
>ourdelay(50);

P3 in this case is Port 3. This port3 is a 16bit port. meaning it has 16 pins. P3_0, P3_1, P3_2....P3_15 correct??

My MSP430 has an 8bit port. meaning 8pins.
Im using Port 1 (P1.0, P1.1, P1.2 etc..)

Hexcode 0x38 gives me 2 lines. i know theres a bunch of other shit i need to do regarding the control pins but im trying to understand if im on the right track.

Are P1OUT and P3 functionally equivalent in this case???

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 04:22:57 2015 No.817326 File: 2.14 MB, 960x706, 1432628261477.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816071

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 04:25:47 2015 No.817327 >>817326 My life summed up in one webm.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 05:47:57 2015 No.817341 >>817326 hahah jesus christ

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 06:37:30 2015 No.817347 >>817326 Brazilian problems.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 08:54:37 2015 No.817375 File: 67 KB, 408x200, mfw.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>817326

Anonymous Tue May 26 09:24:25 2015 No.817391

>>817302
I'm rusty and no expert but have used the MSP430 in the past:
>The LCD’s interface consists of 11 bits. 8 of these carry data (DB0-DB7), the remaining 3 are control bits (RS, R/W, E).
>11 bits
I think you'll have to use a second MSP port (P2)
Looking through stuff I thought I read somewhere (not sure where) that the display had a 4bit data mode. It would allow you to use only 8 MSP pins, but complicate code

Anonymous Tue May 26 12:48:38 2015 No.817457
File: 350 KB, 2333x1632, DSC_0993.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Is my multimeter beyond repair?
I connected it to the output of a boost circuit, I thought it was <1000V but it fried my multimeter. I know this because I opened it and I was able to smell the magic smoke.

Now the strange thing is the voltage is always -5.4, but when I connect a battery it seems to work fine (in the picture it's a discharged Ni-MH), similar things happen with the ohmmeter, the capacimeter is out of scale all the time. The polarity tester and the DC current work fine.

>tfw it's easier to buy a new one than to change a single chip

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 12:50:46 2015 No.817459 File: 2.29 MB, 4000x3000, DSC_0997.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] No visible damage

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Tue May 26 13:01:57 2015 No.817471 If you, for example wanted to turn a fridge on at variable intervals (runs for and X amount of time then stays off for a Y amount), which method of producing such a device would you take?

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 13:11:35 2015 No.817477 >>817323 English must not even be your third language. That page even directly states it's using a HD44780-compatible controller. Now be a good boy and go read one of the hundreds of tutorials on how to wire up and program displays like that.

Anonymous Tue May 26 13:23:26 2015 No.817483

>>817457
if you exceeded the voltage you probably caused an arc across the PCB, check between all of the selector knob contacts as well as slots and the immediate path from the input for a black track of burnt PCB, this is highly conductive and will wreck your readings, if the logic seems to still work then it should be fine, by design the ADC can never be over loaded.

Also you might have to replace the half bridge rectifier as it has a break down voltage of 1kV or less.

Realistically though you should just throw it out and buy a decent meter so you think before being retarded.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 13:24:35 2015 No.817484 File: 13 KB, 275x275, download.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>817471 < $10

Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Tue May 26 13:32:56 2015 No.817493

>>817484
Well that's just the miracle of China.
But in theory, if I wanted to DIY such a device, how would I do it?
I'm looking for the least retarded way, the perfect blend between etching my own transistors and using a Workstation computer to do it.

Anonymous Tue May 26 13:57:03 2015 No.817500

>>817483
I exceeded the voltage, but it wasn't much, it also was low current, so I don't think there'll be any charred part, but I'll check it just in case, seems reasonable.
> bridge rectifier
I guess you mean the diodes at the bottom of >>817459, I'll check if they still work.
>Realistically though you should just throw it out and buy a decent meter so you think before being retarded.
>being retarded
Fuck you, thank you.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 14:03:54 2015 No.817504 File: 2.87 MB, 4000x3000, DSC_0998.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>817483 Fuck me with a chainsaw, you were right. Thanks again, you probably saved me 50 bucks, I'm not worthy.

msp430anon Tue May 26 14:08:19 2015 No.817506 [DELETED]

>>817477
yes. all LCDs (or 90% of them atleast) use the same compatible controller whats your point??
i never asked for you to teach me step by step faggot. When I asked if P1OUT is the staetment used to send hex codes out all you could have said was yes and that was the end of that. English is not my first language you're right but holy shit i feel like it isnt yours either. youre dumb as fuck.

msp430anon Tue May 26 14:10:35 2015 No.817508

>>817477
yes. all LCDs (or 90% of them atleast) use the same compatible controller whats your point??
i never asked for you to teach me step by step faggot. When I asked if P1OUT is the staetment used to send hex codes out all you could have said was yes and that was the end of that. English is not my first language you're right but holy shit i feel like it isnt yours either. youre dumb as fuck. anyways, someone answered my question. Yes i do use P1OUT.

Anonymous Tue May 26 14:21:29 2015 No.817514
File: 2.85 MB, 4000x3000, DSC_1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817504
Great, the best thing to happen to me in this month. AC current and AC voltage are still kill (as you said, the diodes will be damaged) but the other functions do just fine.
Also, what are the blue pots with white caps for? I say this because I moved them and I put them back (with more or less precission) trying to fix this, and I was wondering if this could affect the readings.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 14:39:03 2015 No.817527 >>817493 Modify a mechanical clock to trigger a transistor (by making contact with the hours hand on a conductive surface) and activating a relay. Bombs 101

>>	Swifts !WiNDUPyWhk Tue May 26 14:57:56 2015 No.817537 >>817527 A design worthy of Allah.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 15:17:58 2015 No.817544 >>817508 Ah, there's that useless brown people rage.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 15:19:15 2015 No.817545 >>817514 Trimpots for calibration.

>>	msp430anon Tue May 26 15:21:12 2015 No.817546 >>817544 >burgers being right about anything

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 15:24:48 2015 No.817549 >>817546 Sorry, I can't hear you over all this technical innovation.

>>	msp430anon Tue May 26 15:40:39 2015 No.817560 File: 9 KB, 263x191, jimmyrustler.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>817549

Anonymous Tue May 26 15:44:27 2015 No.817563

>>817514
holy kek, good to see it still works, I did the same thing to my shitty $10 meter but with only 400v, I only found out when using it to check mains voltage, it was trying to tell me there was 1v present on the hot wire, mean while my death stick was lit up like a xmas tree.

you probably want to get a new meter anyway because this one is no longer reliable both in accuracy and safety, namely if you plug it into mains that arc track can reform and cause a high energy flash normally blowing your meter and hands off.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 15:51:46 2015 No.817566 >>817514 also, you might need to cut into the PCB to remove all the burnt material, like it should be white, absolutely any carbon left will cause problems.

Anonymous Tue May 26 16:01:32 2015 No.817571
File: 1.55 MB, 4000x3000, DSC_0852.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817563
I never use it to test the mains, I'm an E.hobbyist, I just test circuits, so it'll be ok, I sometimes wish I wasn't obsessed with high voltages, it isn't a cheap field of study.
>>817566
I rubbed it with a q-tip soaked in alcohol for about 10 minutes until I couldn't get any more residue out, the board was clear indeed, I could see the glass fiber. No way I'm connecting this into mains, even less to a capacitor bank ever again.

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 21:32:24 2015 No.817728 How difficult is SMD soldering? I have nothing to practice with so but is it a lot different compared to regular soldering with regular leads? Would iI be able to get by with just normal experience?

>>	Anonymous Tue May 26 22:56:28 2015 No.817745 >>817571 Is that an arc from a flyback transformer?

Anonymous Wed May 27 03:52:35 2015 No.817824

>>817728
It is different, but it's not that difficult to learn. There's tons of tutorial videos on Youtube. You can also probably find some soldering practice boards on Tindie, otherwise buy some blank adapter boards and the cheapest logic ICs you can buy off eBay. The toughest parts will be placing the components, and learning how to deal with solder bridges (add more solder, then remove it with desoldering braid).

Oh, and get some flux, but not from eBay. A basic flux pen will be your best friend, and some sticky flux can help keep components in place.

Anonymous Wed May 27 04:33:22 2015 No.817832
File: 2.45 MB, 265x235, 1430696189667.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817146
What station would you recommend? What about the OKI PS-900? Or should I just go for the Ersa RDS 80 from amazon? For 130€ it seems like a really enticing soldering iron.

>MFW Elfa Distrelec try to scam me into paying 2x the normal price

Anonymous Wed May 27 05:54:14 2015 No.817845

>>817745
Yes, the input is 44 volts and 3 amps with a 555 driver.
>>817728
It's easier to solder than to desolder. Soldering could be done with a few tools if you're experienced enough, but desoldering will be a pain without tools like soldering tweezers, heat guns, suction pens...

Anonymous Wed May 27 06:26:28 2015 No.817849
File: 5 KB, 612x344, pwm fan.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I would like to control two 12V, 2.5A, 30W Delta fans (4pin cpu fans) with PWM because they are fucking scary at full speed. Found this 555 circuit, will it do the trick? Or should I just buy a tiny arduino?
I would also like to be able to see the RPM from the sense wire. So the arduino would probably be the better choice right?

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:11:33 2015 No.817862
File: 2.68 MB, 4160x2340, daddy done fucked up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hey guys, I am not smart in this area and I need help. I'm looking for a replacement for this (pic).

http://www.ttiinc.com/object/kemet_film_Y2_phe850#phe850

^This was the closest thing I could find and I have no clue if it will even work. I can't even find the manufacturer's name after googling all the info on it. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:26:26 2015 No.817864

Hey /diy/, /g/ here, this looks like the best place for this. I've got a bit of a problem. For work, I've got to get a battery of any flavor into a portable industrial panel, supply 24v, make it lightweight, industrial in strength, and utterly retard-proof. I was looking at LiFePO4 batteries, but I don't know how safe they are, or how well they'll work for this situation. I tried googling around, but I only know enough to cause problems. Any ideas?

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 08:30:11 2015 No.817866 >>816916 it seems you have it all figured out already. it's a 1nF (or .001uF) 300V, non-polarized cap used as surge suppressor or noise filter. thing is, in normal operation that cap doesnt do anything, and can be omitted without any ill effects.

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:36:54 2015 No.817868

>>817864

LiFePO4 are good because they pack a lot of power, but they are not idiot proof, coz you have to be careful in charging them. I'd go with an SLA (sealed lead acid) instead. they're used in alarms and emergency lighting, so they're easy to find, and battle-tested. they are heavy, but that's not a problem if they're gonna be stuck inside a box. lifetime is around 5 years.

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:39:57 2015 No.817869

>>817868
I was also looking at SLAs, but this thing's going to be toted around. Prolly will go with them anyway and tell the ducting people to suck it up.
Any suggestions for charging? Prolly a DPDT between the equipment and a socket to plug in the charger, right?

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:41:39 2015 No.817870

>>817849
>I would also like to be able to see the RPM from the sense wire

no you dont. you just have to see it once when you set it, then forget about it. you can use a DMM with a frequency counter for that. just go for the 555 circuit. it's solid, cheap, simple. you just have to add a reverse-biased diode across the motor to kill the back-EMF that might otherwise destroy the FET.

Anonymous Wed May 27 08:43:18 2015 No.817872
File: 3.00 MB, 4160x2340, hole.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817866
Going out on a limb and hoping you were responding to me.

There are a 3 on the circuit board and only one was blown off (middle missing space in picture) I am hoping to just solder the new capacitor into the slots shown. I'm just hoping I can get a piece that will fit or has long enough plugs to bend to it to fit. Do you recognize the manufacturer?

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 08:44:46 2015 No.817873 >>817869 normally they are constantly trickle charged, at about 1/20 of Capacity. if you're in a hurry, you can just dump more current for a few hours, at maybe 20% of C. check specs.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 08:48:33 2015 No.817875 >>817872 caps are a commodity, like nails, so manufacturer doesnt much matter. and, if the spacing is wrong, they come with very long leads, so you just bend them as needed. you can even mount the cap upside down, with the leads at the top.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 08:52:02 2015 No.817876 >>817873 Can I charge them in series? I'm having a hard time finding 24v batteries.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 08:53:39 2015 No.817877 >>817876 of course. 12V is the most common, but 6 and 24 also exist.

Anonymous Wed May 27 09:15:25 2015 No.817884

>>817875
Thank you so much. I tried to purchase from the link I provided and it was out of stock. From what you said, about it being 1nF and 300v, this was the best match I could find.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAP-FILM-PP-1NF-300V-RAD-Part-EPCOS-B32021A3102M-/351041613498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51bbb5eeba
It seems right to me, am I correct? If so I will purchase now.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 09:20:20 2015 No.817885 >>817884 yeah, looks fine.

Anonymous Wed May 27 09:26:15 2015 No.817886

>>817884

yeah, looks fine except for the shipping charge, which is insane. just to reiterate, these caps are typically just for noise suppression and dont do anything noticeable. so, if you have a dead piece of equipment, replacing it is unlikely to fix the real problem.

Anonymous Wed May 27 09:53:58 2015 No.817891

>>817886
>>817885

It is the circuit board for this light .

http://www.amazon.com/Cree-CS18-80LHE-35K-10V-Linear-Luminaire-8000L/dp/B00K85UNY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432734344&sr=8-1&keywords=cs18-80lhe-35k-10v

In troubleshooting I switched the circuit board from one a working light to non and it worked fine. The only visible difference between the non working and the working circuit board is this missing cap. All other parts look undisturbed. Since you say this cap is just a filter, do you think I could just solder a wire from slot a to b and complete the circuit that way? I would really enjoy this...

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 10:07:25 2015 No.817892 > do you think I could just solder a wire from slot a to b and complete the circuit that way? very much no. that would cause a short circuit and blow a fuse. leaving it as is would be the right way to disable the filtering action.

Anonymous Wed May 27 10:21:48 2015 No.817895

>>817891
>>817892

Sorry, the power went out. I'm back.
If you have the time, I'm enjoying learning if you still have time to answer dumb questions.
Stupid question #1: If I left it alone off as you say, would electricity still flow through the essential parts of the board?

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 10:25:36 2015 No.817898 File: 11 KB, 244x206, damn i fucked that up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>817886 >>817892 Sorry for the language failure...

Anonymous Wed May 27 10:27:46 2015 No.817899

yes, the cap kills high frequency electrical noise, but does not touch the main power.

from the way the PCB looks all charred, it looks like lightning killed the cap, and probably a few other components. i'm pretty sure the only reasonable repair is to replace the whole board.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 10:33:19 2015 No.817900 How do i write .hex files to an EEPROM chip? (Microchip 24LC32A in my case) I have an Arduino Duemilanove on hand and i have a USB to serial board, a FTDI downloader and an Arduino Pro Mini coming in the mail.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 11:04:52 2015 No.817913 >>817899 >>817886 >>817875 Thank you all for the information. I will be in here tomorrow same time to post what I have done and the results.

Anonymous Wed May 27 11:18:11 2015 No.817916
File: 152 KB, 1000x517, XT-PC-Power-Supply-PSU-PCB-IMG_0435.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>817913

if it was me who was trying to source that cap, I'd just open up an old PC power supply and pull the appropriate caps. you can see these here as the 2 big blue ones on the left.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 11:24:51 2015 No.817922 >>817916 Do they have markings? Ceramic caps will often have a four digit code that works like resistor colour code. If not you can try measuring them with an LC meter.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 11:56:03 2015 No.817930 >>817872 yeah nah, that board's got more problems than one dead cap shit's fucked son

Anonymous Wed May 27 14:34:09 2015 No.817995
File: 57 KB, 800x800, $_557.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>816071
hi diy can someone help me a bit ...im trying o nig this ciurcit i got off ebay i thin , im having problems with indentifying two parts : the one to the left wihich im guessing is some kind of fuse , and the part to the right of the resistor thats closest to the maybe fuse

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 15:11:52 2015 No.818012 >>817995 trimpot and a diode?

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 15:12:46 2015 No.818013 >>817995 kekked

Anonymous Wed May 27 15:33:05 2015 No.818020

>>817995
The blue thing on the left is a potentiometer, also called a variable resistor. you can change it's resistance by turning the slot screw.

I don't know which value though. 1k or 10k probably.

The blue thing I'm not too sure. I haven't seen any entirely blue radial diodes before. I would say it's a rectifier diode.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 16:02:19 2015 No.818030 >>817845 Ever tried the ZVS driver? I managed to get 1ft long arcs when powering off 50v, the current draw however was over 14 amps.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 16:24:25 2015 No.818039 >>818020 yeah i figured it out in the meantime , one is a trimmer the other is a diac

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 16:41:34 2015 No.818047 Does anyone know a good book for learning AVR C ?

Anonymous Wed May 27 16:44:11 2015 No.818048

>>817832
I would go for a Weller WES51 or WS81 if you can afford it. It's probably the number one brand in Europe, so it's very easy to find tips and spare parts if you need it. The RDS80 is OK, but nothing special. My biggest complaints are that it takes a long time to heat up and that changing tips while the iron is hot is a bit tricky.

I have no experience with OKI/Metcal, but they seem to be popular for production work. There's usually a lot of them on eBay, but I don't really know how to judge if they're still in good working order.

Anonymous Wed May 27 16:50:44 2015 No.818051

>>817900
The EEPROM's datasheet has all the info needed for programming it. Send the write command, send the address, send the data. You can probably find Arduino sketches for receiving and parsing ihex files, but it's not a particularly difficult format either.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 16:52:57 2015 No.818055 >>818047 It's just C... Go hang out on the AVR Freaks forum, read their tutorials.

Anonymous Wed May 27 20:43:32 2015 No.818128

So, I'm a junior EE student. Haven't had our electromagnetics course yet.

I was reading some of you guys' discussion on capacitors earlier and was wondering if you wired capacitors in series would they charge slower than in parallel?

Since 1 F of Capacitance means while being charged with one Coloumb there is a one volt potential difference between the plates and capacitors in series act like resistors in parallel, then 2 1 F caps in series would be 0.5 F of Capacitance so would it be 0.5 volt potential difference across each capacitor?

I'm just trying to apply what little I know so please help me understand better.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 21:03:57 2015 No.818134 >>816916 I don't think those little fans are gonna be enough to ventilate your bathroom, I think an air extractor would be your best option

Anonymous Wed May 27 21:38:31 2015 No.818152
File: 2.29 MB, 4128x2322, 20150527_203510.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>Buy cheap chinese voltmeter panel
>No documentation exists, has 5 wires

Anyone have any clue how to hook this little shit up?

My assumption is that red goes to hot, black goes to ground, blue goes in line with hot to measure amps, and the tiny wires are to power it.
Does anyone know if that's right or wrong before I fry this thing?

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 22:06:43 2015 No.818156 >>816071 Freshman ee student here, isn't knowing advanced math such as Fourier series a must for actually doing nice things with electronics?

Anonymous Wed May 27 22:09:24 2015 No.818157

>>818156
Junior EE/CE student here
Don't think about what you need to know, just jump into side projects and learn stuff as you need to know them. Think of a project you want to do first, and just dive into it. Otherwise you'll spend much longer learning the theory and never actually making anything.
It took me three years to realize that.

>>	Anonymous Wed May 27 22:12:01 2015 No.818158 >>818157 You're right! I guess there are a lot of thing I can do with arduino, I'll go for domotic, maybe someday post some results.

Anonymous Wed May 27 22:15:20 2015 No.818159

>>818158
Arduino is a good starting point, but try to get passed that and understand more basic electronic circuits.
Blink and LED with a 555, or do what I'm doing and make a benchtop power supply >>818152

I'm not super elitist and against Arduino like some of the other anons on here, but I do agree it doesn't encompass the entirety of electronics.

Dave has a good video on it.
https://youtu.be/zyuRcsM0gjI

Anonymous Wed May 27 22:38:07 2015 No.818166

>>818156
>isn't knowing advanced math such as Fourier series a must for actually doing nice things with electronics?

Fuck no. Not in general, at least. Long as you know what components do what and how to draw up a schematic, you're good for most anything that doesn't involve RF signals or signal analysis.

Not saying you should try and bang up a 10kW switching PSU as a first project, but still.

Anonymous Wed May 27 23:51:50 2015 No.818191
File: 30 KB, 639x405, 119790_story__chain[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818128
Charge = Capacitance*Volts
Q=CV

It's been decades since my theory, but I think...
0.5 Volts per cap for 1 Volt total
... And I've confused myself on coulombs, but will share my confusion.

A single 1F cap:
1 Volt
1 Coulomb

A single 0.5F cap: (equivalent circuit for two 1F caps in series)
1 Volt
0.5 coulombs

And here's the confusion, figuring the Coulombs in the caps separately:
1 Farad
0.5 Volts
=0.5 Coulombs each
so 1 Coulomb total, but the single 0.5 cap above contained 0.5 Coulombs total??? WTF?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 00:23:04 2015 No.818202 >>818128 >2 1 F caps in series would be 0.5 F of Capacitance so would it be 0.5 volt potential difference across each capacitor Yes.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 01:04:15 2015 No.818212 >>818191 we talking series or parallel m8?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 01:15:25 2015 No.818214 >>818212 Two 1F in series. Charge in each as opposed to an equivalent 0.5F, for 1 Volt Total

Anonymous Thu May 28 01:53:11 2015 No.818229

I... what?
Did half my breadboard just decide to die or am I literally retarded?

It doesn't work when the power rails are jumped by the white wires but when I connect them directly to that rail it works fine.

I did a continuity test immediately after across those power rails and they seemed fine. The white wires seemed fine. I don't know what this would happen.

http://a.pomf.se/mlzpum.webm

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 02:12:02 2015 No.818237 >>818229 Well your middle jumpers are fucked somehow. (This was not an uncommon problem when I TAed for electronics lab, mind you.)

Anonymous Thu May 28 02:50:01 2015 No.818241

>>818229

when your jumpers wires are crooked, then they open up the springs too much, and cause intermittent contacts. it's a bit late now, but in the future make sure the wires are thin (24AWG), and straight. they should slide in and out cleanly, not get hooked up like yours. also, for short jumpers, use bare wire so you know it's not broken inside the plastic sleeve.

Anonymous Thu May 28 04:08:34 2015 No.818258
File: 69 KB, 640x579, hb_relay1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

/ohm/, I keep seeing these realys rated at 120v 10a, but they have these little, thin, nubby leads on them that are a fraction the size of a mains wire.

Are these actually safe to use?
Shouldnt the contacts be a decent size for mains power?

Anonymous Thu May 28 04:15:47 2015 No.818259
File: 31 KB, 640x480, bRgI0[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818258

Uh, any relay with small, cylindrical leads like that is meant to be soldered into a board, not attached directly to wires.

Pic related is what you'd expect of a chassis-mount relay.

Anonymous Thu May 28 04:21:16 2015 No.818260
File: 104 KB, 801x1072, Sylvania-A77-309040A-18-Contactor-Relay-120V-Coil-5060-Hz-3-Pole-600-V-Max.-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818259
Im not talking about cars, also where it is ment to be mounted wasnt the point.

Im talking about the size of the contacts, you wouldnt wire a house with 22 gauge wire, right.

Im saying for mains voltage I expected to see something more like this.

Anonymous Thu May 28 04:29:30 2015 No.818263

>>818260
>you wouldnt wire a house with 22 gauge wire, right.

No, but you can get away with a fair bit more when the length of the conductor is very short.

You have to remember also that mains wiring is deliberately oversized by a fairly significant margin for safety reasons and sections of it may well be fully covered by (thermal) insulation.

I've stuffed...what was it...30A or so through 16AWG on one of my ebikes and it only got a little warm. You don't need that big a wire to carry 10A in open air. Additionally, how they are mounted DOES matter, because the PCB itself can help to act as a heat sink for the relay.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 07:28:15 2015 No.818284 File: 557 KB, 1000x729, 1432777111207.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>818152 Like this. I have the same display as you.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 08:05:43 2015 No.818296 >>818260 Terminal blocks excite me sexually.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 08:43:44 2015 No.818307 >>818260 Like this anon said >>818263 >mains wiring is deliberately oversized >PCB itself can help to act as a heat sink This explains the current rating The contact voltage rating has to do with how much voltage they can take when open and not arc.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 08:53:36 2015 No.818308 File: 668 KB, 2550x3507, panelmeter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>818152 here, wire colors vary with those things look at position.

Anonymous Thu May 28 09:18:35 2015 No.818314

Need a word of advice about a retarded, pointless project I'm planning.

I'll attach a servo to my front door so it can turn the lock. A vibration sensor detects when the door is knocked, which an arduino then signals to my phone via bluetooth, prompting me whether to unlock the door.

This part I think I can figure out, although I want to be able to display a message to the guest to indicate that the door has been unlocked. My main question is therefore: Is it at all feasible to drive an old laptop LCD with an arduino?

I'm aware that an arduino doesn't have enough memory for even a 320x240 color image, but I'll only be using 6 colors at most for some rather simple graphics which can be described by functions instead of bitmaps. I also don't care if takes a full second to draw something like "Welcome to x, enjoy your stay". Even if this could work, would it be a lot of trouble to interface the arduino and LCD?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 09:40:34 2015 No.818324 File: 150 KB, 1920x1080, 1430509433911.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] rolling

Anonymous Thu May 28 10:43:36 2015 No.818357
File: 43 KB, 859x673, motorwiring.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Reversing a 1HP single phase cap start induction motor

i took all the wires, applied 1.25V to each one and measured the current - the values i got for resistance are on the image. the 'klixon' is a thermal cutoff.

how the hell can i reverse this? i'm fine with getting into the individual stator wires to separate the starting winding - but wtf is this 1.92 ohm winding?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 16:40:50 2015 No.818456 >>818324 Take that garbage back to /b/.

Anonymous Thu May 28 16:46:48 2015 No.818457
File: 494 KB, 1000x664, nothing_is_sacred_r34.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Would it be technically correct to check if diodes are damaged with an Ohmmeter?
I tried the diode (continuity) function in my multimeter and it doesn't shows any change, specially because the diodes are in series (its a Cockroft-Walton multiplier). However, when using the ohmmeter in the megaohms range I was able to measure very significant differences (specially in reverse mode) that could indicate those are damaged diodes.

I just wanted to know if this method is reliable.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 16:47:15 2015 No.818458 >>818456 Tons of people requested a roll image. That particular one has been around for a while now. Also, roll images aren't a /b/ thing. They exist all around 4chan. Try to remember you're on 4chan and not some seperate electronics forum.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 16:58:36 2015 No.818462 >>818458 If you have to have that shit, at least put it in a separate thread.

Anonymous Thu May 28 18:39:46 2015 No.818507
File: 3.13 MB, 3840x2160, DSC_0008[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Converting a PSU to feed my 3d printer
it has 2 rails of 18A@12V
Should I combine the rails or connect them seperatly? The electronics board needs 15A+5A+5A
I figured 1 rail for the 15A and the other for the rest but what It's easier just to combine them.
What do?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 18:54:14 2015 No.818515 >>818462 Not the guy who posted it, but that roll image is a part of this general. Many people like it and in fact requested it. That particular roll image would not exist if it wasn't in demand from people within this general.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 18:57:44 2015 No.818516 >>816793 Both your battery and capacitors are back to front.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 19:13:00 2015 No.818521 >>818457 Excuse me, what is the origin of this image?!?

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 19:18:21 2015 No.818524 >>816906 yeah its a crt projector so there aint no fuckin bulbs in there mate

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 19:22:39 2015 No.818525 >>818456 >>818462 FUCK YOU U C K Y O U

Anonymous Thu May 28 19:46:30 2015 No.818530
File: 1016 KB, 1600x1062, transistor lewd2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818521
OC, I thought transistor r34 was needed, nobody answered my question though.
>>818456
>>818462
Just roll indirectly and avoid flooding the thread
>>818507
You can't combine two outputs with different voltages, 15 Amps is a huge load, look at the specs of the PSU and try to figure it out.
Also >>811538

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 19:48:58 2015 No.818533 >>818530 >You can't combine two outputs with different voltages They're both 12V

Anonymous Thu May 28 20:03:17 2015 No.818534

>>818533
If I recall correctly you can join all the wires which have the same color (and thus same voltage), there's a lot of info about this, just google:
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply

I also remember depending on how year your psu is you'll have to add a resistor or something like that to get it going.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 21:59:32 2015 No.818581 >>818534 Seconding the resistor. I had a power supply that I knew was functional, but it failed the paper clip test with no load. Hooked up a couple of spare hard drives and it worked like a champ.

>>	Anonymous Thu May 28 22:59:23 2015 No.818617 >>818581 a power supply needing to be loaded is ancient history, hasnt been needed in 10-15 years.

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 04:59:18 2015 No.818734 >>818617 Some will power on but are unstable with no load.

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 05:03:08 2015 No.818738 i found that pic on the internet, first time i need to use a p-channel mosfet in a circuit. i think it was wrong and made a correction. is that actually right?

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 05:07:49 2015 No.818741 File: 27 KB, 1003x450, pnchannel.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>818738

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 11:28:28 2015 No.818765 >>818738 >>818741 nah, that resistor is a pull down resistor. You see how the P-channel has a pull up resistor?

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 11:29:28 2015 No.818766 >>818765 besides i thought you were using the p-channel anyway

Anonymous Fri May 29 16:41:17 2015 No.818867

>>818507
Finished this, it happens to be working.
I'm just afraid I'll burn something by accident jezus fuck this thing has a lot of juice
good thing it has internal safeties.
It turns on without any load and is well within the range of proper ATX 12V specification. So it works without a load

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 17:15:20 2015 No.818875 >>818324 Rolling

Anonymous Fri May 29 17:36:19 2015 No.818888

Hey guys I'm new into electronics. I learned C at college and I did some projects using Arduino but now I want something more 'mature'.
I want to program a microcontroller but I don't know where should I start, what IC to use, what to learn and so on. Could you help me? I'm sorry for my English

Anonymous Fri May 29 17:43:36 2015 No.818891
File: 5 KB, 450x259, MSP47281f5i411f3cg79dg2000024a7abd75129ia37.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818507
Check the resistance between the two rails. If there's low resistance they're both the same rail with separate over-current protection. Combining them will be fine, just know that you fuck up the over-current protection.

If there's a huge resistance they're separate rails and you should probably keep them separate.

Anonymous Fri May 29 17:47:56 2015 No.818895

>>818891
>Combining them will be fine, just know that you fuck up the over-current protection.
But won't it automatically load-balance, assuming equal resistance?
They both have the same load rating of 18A.
Doesn't that mean it can theoretically reach ~36A total before tripping one?

Anonymous Fri May 29 20:14:18 2015 No.818944

>>818888
Well the arduino is basically AVR c made a bit more easy for newcomers so if you wana do bare uC programming i suggest going with an AVR. If you have a UNO just pop out the chip and plug it into a breadboard, give it power and you're all set. For programming just get a usbasp the chinks sell that shit on ebay for around 3 bucks. For tutorials just use google, there are shittons of beginner avr tutorials.

Anonymous Fri May 29 21:07:53 2015 No.818971

>>818944
>If you have a UNO just pop out the chip and plug it into a breadboard, give it power and you're all set
Terrible idea
The board has the proper oscillator hooked up and you can flash stuff with the ICMP header. You DO need a AVR programmer. Note that you can program an arduino to be an AVR programmer.
The bootloader is what allows Arduino code to be uploaded through the USB port.

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 21:12:34 2015 No.818972 >>818152 holy shit what is wrong with your hand?

Anonymous Fri May 29 21:15:13 2015 No.818975
File: 1.45 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_0956.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>818888
get this (AVR dragon) and put a zif socket on like in the pic. download atmel studio. youtube has a few tutorials on the basic setup of the programmer and loading the first LED blink program. There's a guy on youtube called Patrick Hood Daniel that has some pretty in depth tutorials starting from the beginning on programming avrs.

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 21:22:48 2015 No.818982 File: 2.66 MB, 4128x2322, 20150529_201958.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>818284 >>818308 Life savers, love you guys. >>818972 N-nothing. Maybe it's just the angle. You're making me self conscious about my hands..

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 21:27:01 2015 No.818984 File: 463 KB, 3264x2448, ZJKOQ.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>818982 thought you were this guy just from the angle, also you shouldn't post that here, just like those foot people i'm sure there are people that would save your images...

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 21:28:45 2015 No.818986 >>818984 Eh, it's /diy/ not /b/ or /v/ so I'm not too terribly worried. The people here are better than that, hopefully.

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 21:34:55 2015 No.818989 >>818984 this is real easy to do though

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 22:37:42 2015 No.818998 >>818989 It's genetic though

>>	Anonymous Fri May 29 22:38:32 2015 No.818999 >>818984 Womens feet are fuckin god tier, m8

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 05:11:18 2015 No.819092 >>818741 The load for the N channel is on the wrong side, it should go between positive to drain.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 05:24:55 2015 No.819095 >>818975 All I hear about the Dragons is that they break really easily. These days an Atmel ICE is probably a better investment, as it supports debugging as well.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 05:28:38 2015 No.819096 >Indel Transformer: encapsulated; 100VA; 230VAC; 24V; 4.17A; 1.3kg (TMBZ100/002M/t) i need 24v ac (60w) input for my soldering station. will this do the job?

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 05:58:01 2015 No.819099 >>819092 The picture shows two ways to drive a grounded load and what will the output voltage be in each case. Sure, your suggestion often works better, but then you'd need to run the positive supply to the load.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 06:11:24 2015 No.819103 >>819099 But the N channels gate drive needs to be referenced to the source pin, having a load there with the supply voltage across it will cause problems.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 06:12:27 2015 No.819104 >>819099 >>819103 Is it a floating gate drive?

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 06:34:07 2015 No.819109 >>819096 you need 24Vac at 60W. a transformer gives you 24Vac at 100W ( technically VA but it's the same since it's a purely resistive load). you ask if it's compatible. we look at you funny coz it's kinda fucking obvious.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 07:46:17 2015 No.819124 >>819103 >>819104 It is the mosfet equivalent of the emitter follower. The source voltage will be below the gate voltage, like the pic says. How much exactly depends on the load current and the mosfet. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Source_follower

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 08:42:53 2015 No.819134 >>819109 yeah i figured so. just wanted to make sure cause i often manage to fuck up in the most stupid ways.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 09:59:11 2015 No.819158 What's a good electromagnetics project? I don't want to build a transformer, and I've already done the coil and rail gun.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 10:29:41 2015 No.819166 >>819158 motors? generators? meters? steel ball levitation toy? magnetic transducers?

Anonymous Sat May 30 10:29:46 2015 No.819167
File: 826 KB, 2800x1681, mounted-shield-full.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>819158
I've been trying to make a 1bit (1 or 0) magnetic memory with some transistors and a big toroid, but I can't figure the read-write circuit without a microcontroller, and I'll probably need to do some tests with the oscilloscope I'm waiting for.
If you or some anon can help me with this I would be grateful.
If I recall correctly, there's a loop around the toroid, to write it you send a current in or out the loop, this will write a magnetic "something" inside the toroid, depending on the direction of the current it'll be a 1 or a 0, to read it, you send current into it again, if you find resistance in order to change the writing that's the opposite (of the current you passed though) if not, then it's the same state. I think you must erase the data in order to read it.
Useful info:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0WnddW5gZI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=An-GIhx0z4c

Magnetic fields are magic, this is a video I did few months ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxBTLDKG1Co

There are magnetic core memory shields for arduino, so it can't be that hard to come up with a 1 bit version.

You can also do a magnetic levitation machine, there's a lot of info about that.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 10:40:32 2015 No.819171 >>819166 >>819167 Levitation sounds fun

Anonymous Sat May 30 10:46:23 2015 No.819173

>>819167
To begin with, you need a toroid which can be efficiently magnetized permanently. They are uncommon, so unless you specifically got such toroid, the one you have is going to suck.
Also, if it's a big (non-tiny) toroid, it would make sense to use many turns instead of inserting a single wire through it like in your pic.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 11:14:01 2015 No.819181 Any news on art of electronics 3rd edition ebook yet

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 11:20:53 2015 No.819182 File: 29 KB, 587x587, 27 Μαϊ 2015 10-01-09 π.μ..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 11:21:52 2015 No.819183 >>819167 >>819173 Not that I've worked with this stuff, but doesn't it have more to do with hysteresis (hence the drawing on the silkscreen)? If it was permanent then you'd be fucked.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 12:44:19 2015 No.819196 >>819183 Hysteresis, high coercivity, remanence etc. are just more civilized ways to talk about the same thing. Core memory retains data (indefinitely) in core's magnetization. It is reversible, of course, so maybe "permanent" was a bad word choice.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 15:27:38 2015 No.819245 Can one amlpify sound with opamps? Sound amplifier ics are basically banwidth tuned and feedback controlled opamps, right?

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 15:31:16 2015 No.819246 >>819245 sure, how much current can your op amp push though?

Anonymous Sat May 30 15:45:08 2015 No.819249

>>819246
I dunno man, I just salvaged four cute smd amps, I was thinking maybe I should put them in a cascading order. Each of them has for pairs of inverting and non inverting input. I'm not sure if using all fours would be a good idea, would it become noisy or something? They don't look too beefy though, maybe good for preamps or I don't know
I got em from a can controller by the way

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 15:46:09 2015 No.819251 >>819249 *four pairs of inputs

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 16:21:35 2015 No.819260 >>818895 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgzlT1b4-P4

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 16:32:13 2015 No.819267 >>819260 good to see rocky still trying new things outside of his acting career.

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 18:44:31 2015 No.819333 Apropos nothing, this teardown was posted on the eevblog forum and shows why it's worth paying a bit extra for your tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMQmlzEI-Y

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 21:07:20 2015 No.819399 >>819333 link doesnt work

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 21:45:11 2015 No.819412 >>819333 >>819399 Derp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMQmlzEI-Yw

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 21:52:44 2015 No.819415 >read thread >get inspired, get ready to take shit apart >can't find my screwdriver kit fuck

>>	Anonymous Sat May 30 22:21:09 2015 No.819429 so I wanna make a USB-powered cooling fan for my laptop. What are the chances that I'm going to fry it if I wire it my self? I just wanna use the 5v and ground pins on a standard USB jack and cable to power the fan with a potentiometer

Anonymous Sat May 30 22:36:03 2015 No.819433
File: 3 KB, 100x80, crimper.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Are all crimpers doing the exact same thing? Pic related is being sold as a molex crimper for PC cable making, but I could swear I used the exact same thing for Dupont connectors. Is the wire gauge I intend to use the only parameter?

Anonymous Sat May 30 22:54:28 2015 No.819444

Sorry guys, wasn't sure whether to post this in this thread or the stupid questions thread. On the side of my garage there was an old flood light that hasn't worked since I moved in. I finally replaced it today with a motion detected light. It functions fine and all but I ran into a problem. The way it's set up now, the lights will only come on while the light switch is on; the same light switch that turns on all the garage's interior lights. So basically, as it is, I need to have my interior lights on all night if I want my flood lights to come on. I'm extremely new to this and just only recently started DIYing around the house fixing shit up. Just wondering if someone could give me an idea of what I'd have to do to correct this.

Anonymous Sat May 30 23:22:19 2015 No.819451

>>819444
Splice wires from your lightswitch to the flood lights. specifically, there will be one wire going into your light switch, and one going out. grab the one going in, and have it also go to the flood lights. Don't forget the second wire to complete the circuit.

Anonymous Sat May 30 23:36:56 2015 No.819453

>>819451

what this guy means to say is that you have to run a diff cable to the motion detector than the other lamps. usually this means tearing things down, making big holes in the walls, trying to fish wires thru, and is generally very frustrating and expensive. best idea is to forget it.

Anonymous Sun May 31 00:46:10 2015 No.819475

If I want to measure really high frequency wave forms, like on the order of 20-40GHz how would I go about it? My oscilloscope only has 50MHz bandwidth and even the really high end $10k+ Agilent and Tektronix scopes only have something like 1GHz bandwidth. Is it even possible?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 01:02:12 2015 No.819487 >>819429 Well you damn well better put a diode in there or you will fry it

Anonymous Sun May 31 01:18:58 2015 No.819495

>>819451
Appreciate it! I was hoping and kinda figured it was something relatively simple like that. Hopefully I can manage that.

>>819453
I don't understand that... everything is exposed and right out in the open. How can it be that hard? I'm obviously not gonna just 'forget it'...

Anonymous Sun May 31 01:38:21 2015 No.819504

>>819475
There are oscilloscopes capable of doing that either by undersampling (cheaper) or directly (more expensive).
Former: http://www.tek.com/oscilloscope/dsa8300-sampling-oscilloscope
Latter: http://www.keysight.com/en/pd-2108922/infiniium-high-performance-oscilloscope-50-ghz?cc=FI

It is more common to use spectrum analyzers on that frequency range, though.

Anonymous Sun May 31 01:50:06 2015 No.819510
File: 89 KB, 1000x634, lites.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>819495

whether it's hard or easy depends on the topology of the house. if you have the situation shown at the bottom, where all the diff light cables are accessible at the light switch, then it's easy.
but if you have the more common situation at the top, then there's no way to make it work without adding new cable.

another option then is to spend $100 for an X-10 like system to switch the lights using a remote control.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 02:14:10 2015 No.819514 >>819475 >really high end >$10k Recalibrate your expectations, there are $500k or $1mil instruments out there.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 02:20:45 2015 No.819516 File: 37 KB, 793x416, electrick.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>819412 Heh.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 07:33:35 2015 No.819603 >>819516 electrick pls

Anonymous Sun May 31 07:46:01 2015 No.819604

>>818030
The biggest power source I have is a transformer from an amplifier that can output 44 volts at around 5 amps. I tried a ZVS for an induction heater, but I never got it to work, 555s seem more reliable and easier to control.
Also I don't know how you managed not to burn the secondary. I'm very worried about killing my flybacks.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 10:08:17 2015 No.819645 >>816906 pics of the thing? also as >>818524 said CRT != bulbs

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 11:12:42 2015 No.819662 >>819475 Unless there's a real need for time domain, spectrum analyzers are the way to go in that frequency range. Used 40Ghz SAs can be found for less than $5K. 40Ghz capable O-scopes cost more than the GDP of some third world countries.

Anonymous Sun May 31 11:16:58 2015 No.819664

>>816906
According to the video, red still works. It's normal for Barco CRT projectors to show the menu in green text only, fyi. Could be the same for yours, I've never had a Zenith. No worries.

On Curt Palme his webpage (google it) lots of docs on those projectors can be found as well.

What does the Zenith project after turning it on? Also, what's its type?

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 15:38:31 2015 No.819776 >>818324 I WILL ROLL MY DREAD

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 15:40:34 2015 No.819777 >>819776 >Water level controller Awesome, since I'll be taking digital control systems next semester.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 19:13:47 2015 No.819886 >>818314 Laptop LCD's are a finicky and difficult subject, and this fact becomes truer the older the screen. Get yourself a raspberry pi and a real screen.

Anonymous Sun May 31 19:44:57 2015 No.819896
File: 6 KB, 442x243, ATX_PSU.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Can I reduce multiple cables into one thicker cable capable of 32 Amp this way? Also, is there any better options for connecting multiple smaller cables to one thicker one? I guess I could crimp on ring connectors and bolt them together.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 20:50:58 2015 No.819927 Could I make a coil gun that uses a flyback transformer to generate an insane amount of voltage to shoot?

Anonymous Sun May 31 22:51:45 2015 No.819966

>>816329
>>816328
>>816277
Do some research into optical encoders. Basically a little wheel that attaches to the shaft with an emitter and a detector, the wheel has holes in it that lets the light through and the pulses are counted. Note though that this will give you relative position and not absolute, so it may have to be zeroed after a power loss.

Does anyone know what kind of sensor I would want to use if I were trying to make an optical mouse? I found one, the ADNS2620, but it is end of life and is alone in it's category on mouser.

>>	Anonymous Sun May 31 22:53:44 2015 No.819967 >>819896 I mean if the lines don't need to be isolated you can. Like if any of those wires need to be different voltages or if they carry a signal I wouldn't do it

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 00:42:28 2015 No.820008 >>819896 >is there any better options for connecting multiple smaller cables to one thicker one? 60W soldering iron and heat shrink. this would produce less resistance than the bus bar or the crimp terminals. it's also smaller.

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 00:47:36 2015 No.820011

>Could I make a coil gun that uses a flyback transformer to generate an insane amount of voltage to shoot?

the xformer has too high an output impedance, it would produce a pathetic current spike. you'd need to store the energy on a big very-high-voltage cap before discharging it and getting a big spike. that makes it expensive and heavy.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 02:38:06 2015 No.820038 >>819173 Maybe I could try with a nut or a metal ring, the metals they're made of often show those properties like in the last video I posted here >>819167

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 04:45:47 2015 No.820066
File: 44 KB, 512x384, grass_keyboard.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Two questions:

1--if I have multiple power supplies plugged into a power strip, and the grounds on the PS outputs are joined, will they all have equal grounds when the power supply switch is turned on? Or do they need to be turned on one at a time.... :| I got something that needs 5v/12v/24v/60v and I want to avoid needing to turn four power supplies on and off manually.

2--I want a auto-shutoff switch, but I don't know the name.... I've seen these on industrial equipment. It is a box that is placed into the (115v/230v) power cord of a device, with two push-buttons (one for ON and one for OFF). What this thing does is if you unplug the device from the wall, the switch automatically kicks into "OFF" mode so the thing won't start up the moment when you plug it in again. Anybody know of what I speak? (--no DIY!,,,, this will be used in a business so I need to buy one that is UL or CE listed, I can't just build something myself using a relay)

[pic unrelated]

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 05:07:21 2015 No.820067
File: 18 KB, 780x319, safety ON-OFF.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>820066

grounds are usually never switched, so all power supplies should have grounds connected continuously.

I've seen those safety power switches, they have 3 pins, with 1 NO push contact and 1 NC. however, they usually rely on an external relay to do the safety stay-off feature. it would look like attached pic. press NO to turn on the relay and the machine. the relay is energized so it keeps current flowing to machine after you release the NO. at anytime, if you press the NC, it de-energizes the machine and the relay. during a power outage, the relay releases, so the machine stays off.

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 05:13:00 2015 No.820070

>>820066
First question: you can switch on all PS at the same time with the grounds tied together, no problem.
Except if they're high power PS, because then the inrush current spike could make a mains circuit breaker pop out (no worries if you stay under a thousand Watts total or so). But that's unrelated tot the grounds being joined together or not.

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 08:51:50 2015 No.820119

>>820066
The hot-side grounds and the cold-side grounds are two completely different things, and because almost every power supply design incorporates a transformer at some stage, there's no need or guarantee for the two to be connected.

Famously, the original Xbox had a floating ground, and if you went to the effort of jamming your finger into the breakaway cable, it would electrocute you.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 10:25:12 2015 No.820154 >>820038 Lol, you're probably right. At least they shouldn't be worse than common toroids, unless you want speed. I'd expect them to work even better if you harden them first.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 12:10:08 2015 No.820179 >>816098 pls give schematics. I desperately want to build one.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 12:25:15 2015 No.820184 >>817862 Those film capacitors are pretty sturdy, how did you end up blowing it?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 13:14:52 2015 No.820198 File: 577 KB, 1449x824, pcb1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Can anyone tell me what part of this PCB controls the dimmer/brightness of this light. http://www.amazon.com/CS18-44L-35K-10V-Watts-Linear-Luminaire-Dimmable/dp/B00K85TPGC

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 13:41:20 2015 No.820209 File: 60 KB, 975x547, proyectolabELEINDST1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>816793 I did it, it werks

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 13:59:26 2015 No.820217 >>820198 Can you manually adjust it? If so theres a pot or something that does somewhere. Otherwise it might be one of the ics

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 14:20:33 2015 No.820227 >>820198 I'm going to guess it's not the massive burned section at 11-oclock.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 14:38:03 2015 No.820235 >>820209 what's with the huge wires?

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 16:34:16 2015 No.820283

>>818766
yes, but i want to understand what i'm doing too.

>>819092
yes, that is true to, but GND is a relative concept to each component used. as far as my theoretical understanding goes, it should be possible to use the above circuit if the red resistor is placed so that the gate voltage is referenced to source.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 16:40:06 2015 No.820289 >>820198 follow the circuit from LED to the transistor (prolly a TO-220 MOSFET). check that transistor datasheet. find gate pin. follow gate pin to IC or R/C-swing circuit. modify as needed (change resistance, cap or quartz)

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 19:55:53 2015 No.820368 >>820289 >>820217 Thanks

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 21:13:40 2015 No.820396

>>820066
>2--I want a auto-shutoff switch, but I don't know the name.... I've seen these on industrial equipment.
(me responding to my own post...)
I found it,,,,, it is called a "safety restart switch". And the ones I saw cost too damn much:
http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/electrical-test-and-measurement/general-electrical-testing/sensing-saf-start-plugs.html
,,,, about $100 each. But those are OSHA industrial-rated ones. (heh, the Grainger price for those is $180)
There is some of these knocking around on eBay for $40-$50, but that's still kinda expensive. :|

There is little plug adapters to do the same thing-
http://www.rockler.com/safetygate-consumer-retrofit-restart-protection-electrical-plug
$20, not too bad. There is an "industrial" one there also for $30, not sure what the difference is.

http://www.safetyandhealthmagazine.com/articles/do-your-machines-have-anti-restart-protection-2

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 21:19:14 2015 No.820400 File: 52 KB, 512x384, 1433159089068.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >Presentation on electrical safety >It takes 50ma to kill someone >that's 100 times more than a drill! Why do people do this? Does no one know what ohm's law is?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 21:45:19 2015 No.820409 >>820396 yet, you could implement the circuit in >>820067 for about $10, with a $6 relay and a $4 switch like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-OFF-START-STOP-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-1-NO-1-NC-WL-/281623668568

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 21:51:12 2015 No.820412 >>820400 I thought it only took 0.1 mA

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 22:04:08 2015 No.820420

>>820412

It varies wildly depending on exactly how the current is applied. Electricity usually kills you by causing your heart to fibrillate (essentially inducing a severe heart attack).

The only current that actually matters is what travels through your heart's nerves, and the necessary current is in the microamp range, nowhere near milliamps. The problem is, your heart is surrounded by plenty of conductive tissue which will take a lot of the load. Thus, how much current actually has to be supplied to your body overall depends entirely on where you're making electrical contact. Stabbing someone in the chest with a pair of electrodes? Plenty less than 1mA will fibrillate their heart. Grabbed some wires, current from one hand to the other, or grabbed a one wire and grounded through the foot? Low mA range. One foot to the other? Mid mA range or more.

If there's no direct path through your chest, it's almost impossible to be electrocuted if you aren't dealing with extremely high-voltage/high-power sources.

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 22:08:40 2015 No.820427

>>820420
I vaguely recall a statistic that deaths were more common in left handed hydro workers, precisely because current coming in your left arm is much more likely to pass close to your heart than your right arm. Don't know how true that is, but I'm not going to test it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 22:25:05 2015 No.820433 I've been looking into making am electromagnetic levitator, but all I find online are designs where the floating object is suspended below the electromagnet. How would I go about making something that suspends an object above the magnet(s)?

Anonymous Mon Jun 1 22:44:37 2015 No.820441

>>820427
>Don't know how true that is

I would imagine it to be very true. Current travelling from right arm to any other part of you except your left arm leaves your heart a reasonably wide berth, as far as current distribution goes. A circuit through your left arm is liable to subject your heart to (by my rough estimating) somewhere between 1.25-1.5 times the current as an equivalent circuit utilizing your right arm.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 22:59:26 2015 No.820446 >>820441 >>820427 Are we talking very low resistance? From what i understand you need a high voltage to be able to deliver enough current

>>	Anonymous Mon Jun 1 23:23:42 2015 No.820453 Does this guy hurt himself for views or is he a legit dumbass? https://youtu.be/sI5Ftm1-jik

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 00:18:53 2015 No.820469

>>820433
>How would I go about making something that suspends an object above the magnet(s)?

this is easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy. the usual way this is done is by balancing the forces of gravity pulling down with magnetism pulling up. so, if you put the magnet below, you just have to put the gravity above it by using a gravity inverter.

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 02:12:47 2015 No.820504

I have a display with a 14pin 0.8mm connector (pic), how can I connect to this shit? I've used a multi-pitch adapter for prototyping/experimenting:
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1436

but I need to actually connect it directly to a microcontroller somehow (attempting to make a simple wristwatch). I cant find any 0.8mm ffc ribbon cables which seems to be what I need, any ideas anyone?

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 02:14:17 2015 No.820507 File: 291 KB, 996x915, screen.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>820504 >(pic)

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 03:03:54 2015 No.820525

>>820446
Flesh itself conducts electricity reasonably well. A typical value you find from literature is 1.5kohm from hand to hand. This isn't exactly surprising, as your body is mostly salt water.
The skin resistance can be pretty high at low voltages and that's why multimeter gives you high resistance values. However, it drops radically when voltage is increased and of course sweaty/moist skin is much more conductive to begin with.

Add all this to >>820420 and it isn't a surprise why voltage considered to be "safe" (SELV) is so low, IIRC 25VAC.

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 07:59:37 2015 No.820614
File: 1.07 MB, 622x935, shitty pic.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have a little laser module that pulls 13.3mA at 2.8V but my powersupply only has 5V and 12V.
On a scale this smal would it be ok to use a voltage devider to get my ~3V? It will have to be on constantly for a maximum of 12 hours.
I also need to power a 9V dc motor. Would it be ok to just PWM the 12V down? Dc motors are mostly inductive after all.
Pic related, pls don't fling shit at me for using an arduino.

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 08:45:54 2015 No.820631
File: 63 KB, 640x479, this-is-the-way-to-pour-tea.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Where can I get smaller-size shielded/coax wire?
'smaller size' = maybe 20 to 26 ga
I'd prefer 1 conductor in it, and a metalized shield
the shield will be grounded, only the center conductor would be used

also I don't need a 100-foot spool. I want to buy 15 - 30 feet at the most. I will use this for Arduino stuff where I think interference *might* cause a problem--but I know its going to cost money, so I'm not using it for all the wiring.

Digikey only sells 100-foot spools, and the cheapest kind they list (with no shield, just a twisted pair) is $119.

Also ....do you solder onto the aluminum shielding? or do you just have to clamp it with some copper strips, and solder onto them? All the CATV stuff I've seen over the years clamped together but this would be too small for those kinds of fittings.

(pic unrelated)

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 08:47:01 2015 No.820633 >>820469 Kek

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 09:52:42 2015 No.820664 Welp I need one of these now https://youtu.be/wIX6SLOaNHs

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 11:05:59 2015 No.820697

>>820614
You can power the laser module from a voltage divider.
From +5V, connect a 33 Ohms resistor and a 47 Ohm resistor in series to ground. Connect the laser between ground and the joint of both resistors.
A 33 Ohm resistor will make you end up with about 2,7V (loaded), using 27 Ohm instead of the 33 Ohm will result in about 2,9V (loaded).
The resistors should be rated at least 1/4W (1/2W would be beter).

If the motor its load is constant (and so its power consumption), you could use a dropdown resistor if you have high wattage types. If you're going to use regulators, don't forget the flywheel diode.

Instead of PWM, you could also use a 7809 powered from 12V (mind its current rating, and mount it to a heatsink).

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 11:20:19 2015 No.820700

>>820631
I often use twin audio signal cable for that purpose (the kind which usually has RCA or Jack connectors on both ends).
My local electronics store has various types of cable on spools, and cuts off the amount of metres you order. A couple of weeks ago, I paid €0,55 a metre of twin audio signal cable. Pull both sides apart, and there's two metres of shielded cable for €0,55. Can't get much more of a bargain.
Ask for them to strip a cm or two first, so you can judge the quality of the cable its shielding.

For RF purposes I use thin RG316 coax.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 11:29:58 2015 No.820701 >>820631 To complete my reply: I solder directly onto the shielding. Peel the shielding to one side, twist the strands of wire together and coat the bundle with tin.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 11:45:07 2015 No.820704 >>820614 Instead of "dropdown resistor", I meant "series resistor".

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 12:23:11 2015 No.820713 File: 3.47 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_20150602_180900.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] i want to modify this splitter like pic related i would remove circuit board and solder like red line indicates yay or nay?

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 12:28:32 2015 No.820715
File: 2.20 MB, 1539x737, 5mm paper.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>820697
Not having the right values at hand. Would this work? I expect about 2.5V loaded.
>>820704
I don't realy have a resistor I could use for that. Is PWM an option or would it fuck up the motor? The driver is an TB6612FNG and the motor pulls about 300mA loaded and at 9V.

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 13:33:09 2015 No.820745
File: 9 KB, 377x455, laser.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>820715
Use this circuit.

Forget voltage dividers, you actually do need a "drop-down resistor". the resistors combined dissipate 0.03W, those look lik 0.25s, so you're good.

PWM is an option, logically, 100% might/will kill your motor. You've gotta find out what the limit is. Your motor's power at 9V with 0.3A is 2.7W. Your motor's resistance is 30 ohms. At 12V you're gonna have a current of 0,4A which would mean your engine's running 4.8W. Since you want it to be 2.7W you'd have to set your PWM to a *maximum* of 2.7/4.8=56%. So don't go over half and you should be fine. See how warm the engine is when you're running it DC 9V and then try to not let it get warmer when you're running PWM 12V.

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 13:42:10 2015 No.820752

>>820715
That will work.
You can also use a 47 Ohm (if you have one) and that 68 Ohm, and connect them +5V, 47 Ohm, 68 Ohm, GND. Load across GND and the joint of both resistors. That will give you 2,6V loaded, and 1/4W resistors will happily take it.

According to the specifications of the Arduino module with TB6612FNG, it can take the current. I read that flyback diodes are built into that driver, so you wouldn't have to worry about those.
In case you don't want to rely on that, mount a 1N4007 or similar 'backwards' across the motor. Cathode at the + side (facing the PWM driver), anode at the - side.
It'd be a shame to blow up such a module if it could've been prevented with a €0,25 diode.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 13:56:42 2015 No.820763 >>820752 with that voltage divider you'll end up with 2.5-2,6V, you're having the 68r and load in parallel, comb r of 51, creating divider with 47/51 ~ 2,5V. also you're using 0.26W of power, vs . 0.07W like in >>820745

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 17:07:03 2015 No.820832
File: 1.58 MB, 1227x504, voltage devider.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>820745
>>820752
Thanks. It works as intended. I went for the voltage devider because I'm unsure if the laser module is a ohmic consumer.
>>820763
Power consumption isn't raly a problem in my case and the ~0.3W I measured aren't that much anyways.

I'm confident the motor driver doesn't need a diode. I already used it in a couple of projects. I'll just start with 50% PWM and compare the current with 9V operation.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 20:24:53 2015 No.820954 Any vacuum tube project ideas?

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 22:37:34 2015 No.821021 >>820832 the best solution to both your problems is series diodes. 5V with 3 series diodes gives you 2.9V 12V with 4 series diodes gives you 9.2V diodes are simple, cheap and dont waste energy like voltage dividers.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jun 2 22:50:54 2015 No.821030 Will i be fine with powering a 12v fan with 18v and a 100Ω resistor? It says it takes .15a and the max power is 3.6w

Anonymous Tue Jun 2 23:08:59 2015 No.821041

>>821030

if you use the sticker value, you'd need to drop 6V with a current of .15A, so the resistor needed would be 40 ohms. 100 is way too high, maybe two 100's in parallel if that's all you got.

but that .15A is probably a max, and the actual current will be slightly less, and so your resistor should be slightly more, so maybe 50 is just right.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jun 3 05:43:52 2015 No.821143 File: 2.29 MB, 4160x2340, IMG_20150603_123816.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I got a transormer but i dont know which is the input and output/primary and secondary. How do i check?

>>	Anonymous Wed Jun 3 05:45:22 2015 No.821144 >>821143 there dont seem to by any markings btw

Anonymous Wed Jun 3 11:21:22 2015 No.821239

>>821143

well I see some markings right there. Primary 230V, Secondary 24V. That means that the primary will have, very roughly, 10 times higher resistance than the secondary. So measure away.

another way to do this is to inject, say, 12Vac from another transformer into either coil. then measure the other coil to see whether you're getting 10x the voltage or 1/10-th the voltage. (You do it this way coz you know both coils can handle 12V just fine)

LM358 Wed Jun 3 11:30:59 2015 No.821244

I`ve got a problem concerning building an electronic circuit. I`m a beginner in this business. I`ve got a circuit which isn`t working and I am figuring out why. A LM358 op-amp is in the circuit. I want to find out wether the op-amp is working or not but I don`t know how. How to test an op-amp?

>>	Anonymous Wed Jun 3 11:48:25 2015 No.821249 >>820235 Felt lazy, used cheap jumper cables to wire it. Later I replaced it with regular cable. Will be going into a PCB board once I figure out how those are made.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jun 3 13:03:54 2015 No.821268 we're in decline. New thread: >>821267 >>821267 >>821267 >>821267

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