/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.775718]

I have $1000 CAD to spend on a 3d printer. What should I look for in a 3d printer? Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.775724]

2+1 dimensions, but less than 4

it should print....


er... it's nice if it's man portable?... then they can double as a convenient doorstop..

[Anonymous No.775731]

>>775724
very helpful.

[Anonymous No.775732]

>>775731
in my defense I know pretty much nothing about 3d printers...

[Anonymous No.775788]

Know nothing about 3D printers, but people on DIY seems to like the Prusa I3, but dunno tbh.

[Anonymous No.775803]

>>775718
Definitely not the fucking Davinci, its locked down garbage with DRM that phones home to china whenever you use it, and you have to use their filament unless you hack the fuck out of it (not easy to do anymore). And dont buy a dirty Makerbot who is trying to ruin 3d printing while being patent trolls in a niche hobby.

Look into a Printrbot Metal plus/Ultimaker/Lulzbot. Dunno how much they are in CAD but they are all very good depending on budget.

If it were me, Id build a MendelMax 3.

>>775788
I3 is an amazing hobby printer for the price, but once you get a decent budget you dont have to settle for one.

[Anonymous No.775834]

>>775718
one that can 3d print. how about that?

>>775803
i agree on the DRM and custom parts bits (makerbot). but i would also recommend not going with a printer that needs a laser cutter for part replacement.

>MendelMax 3
the mendel max series is a nice and sturdy series of self assembly hobby printers (a true reprap).
Just need to replace the PLA parts with strong and proper ABS parts. you can do that on-the-fly if you bought and build a kit.

issues i had with my 3d printers:
- lack of enclosure will not allow you to print big parts. Thermal variations in cooldown will crack the layers
- big parts may cause skips while the build platform moves. you should prefer a printer design that only moves the build platform up and down (z axis) and never along x or y.
- nothing to print or no time to design stuff to print

[Anonymous No.775838]

There is a recent guide.
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
It's not perfect, but I've red trough it and it mostly matches my experience.

When you have a speciffic printer in mind, go and check out their customer support. Just make something up like the X-motor making a grinding noise and not turning and ask what to do. That way you can make sure they take customer support seriously. A well known brand doesn't mean the support is good.

[Anonymous No.775860]

Issues my work has had with our MakerBots:
- Extruders clog often (heatsink is undersized), and are not user-serviceable. MakerBot wants you to buy a new extruder ($175) every time it clogs. We were going through an extruder per filament spool.
- Customer service is shit. Turn around time is a week just for email support, and a month for an RMA. Standard support is only 6 months, thereafter they charge $100 per incident (email).
At this point we gave up on them.

[Anonymous No.775866]

>>775860
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqgsd4DG8uw

Damn, and I thought it was a PITA to clear a clog on my E3DV6 hotend.

[Anonymous No.775879]

>>775860
i never understood this part. as an owner of a RepRap Mendel Max 2.5 i had like once in a year a clog and that was due to some burned plastic inside the extruder. it was obviously my fault for letting it be heated for so long without any extrusion going on.

BUT it took me half an hour to remove the plastic, heat up the head and use normal plastic to remove some stone hard plastic bits from the head through simple fishing and letting the new plastic glue itself to the problematic bits.

and that was back when i used 230°C for ABS. now i am going 245°C and no clogging. no problems, nothing. maybe it just clogs with PLA?

>>775866
oh i see. it's not clogging but the design of the whole thing is bad. such a horrible filament guidance is meant to get stuck with debris. you won't get these problems with a reprap... you may get real clogging but as i said that is rare and easy to fix

[Anonymous No.775885]

>>775838
>>775838
Not OP but nice link. I like the dedicated dildo one.

[Anonymous No.775887]

>>775838
Not OP. Do you know of a recent guide to more professional level 3D printers?
Price range preferably under 10k$

[Anonymous No.775907]

>>775718
features that you should get:
all metal hot end. heated build plate. extruder that is either injection molded or metal.
features that are nice to get:
open source firmware/hardware. SDcard capable, LCD display. network interface. enclosed build area.

[Anonymous No.775935]

>>775887
There is a professional section in the works. Nothing under 10k$ though. There are some smal professional printers in existance, but they are few. I doubt someone is gonna provide a guide on those.

[Anonymous No.775942]

Prusa i3. If you want to be fancy get a waterjet cut aluminum frame. Otherwise wood or acrylic is fine.

Of my 3 printers it's the one that's given me the fewest headaches. I built this variant. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616

[Anonymous No.775943]

>>775942
may I ask what your other 2 printers are?

[Anonymous No.775947]

>>775907
>heated build plate
Some printers have a full heated chamber.

[Anonymous No.775949]

>>775947
temperatures differ.
heatbed is usually 70-80 (PLA) 110°C (ABS)
while chambers are in ranges of 40 to 80°C (higher for ABS and expected results)

[Anonymous No.776105]

>>775943
solidoodle 2 and a printerbot 2014.

I ended up rebuilding the entire x carriage on my solidoodle and swapping out the cheap ass heated bed with a pcb heater. I then got rid of the jigsaw extruder and replaced it with an alternative from thingiverse. It runs like a champ now but still occasionally fucked up larger prints.

[Anonymous No.776125]

>>775942
You dont want acrylic

The acrylic y carriage warps under a heated printbed and the frames arent as stiff as they should be.

[Anonymous No.776155]

Op here, some nice suggestions guys. Thank you very much! Keep them coming!

I'm interested in doing some mechanical projects. Is 100 microns good enough for that? I would like to be making gears and sliding parts similar to the internals of a gun or something.

[Anonymous No.776236]

>>776155
100 microns is way too much for mechanical. i usually print with 0.2 or 0.3 sometimes with 0.4 layerheight dependent on how much change in z direction there is and how much force the layers need to withstand. but i could not tell the difference between 0.1 to 0.3 on bond strength between layers, so it's just an artistic choice... mostly

[Anonymous No.776251]

>>776155
This. >>776236
I usually print at 0,25mm. Printing 0,1mm (100 microns if you are that way inclined) would take more than twice as long as you need 10 layers per mm instead of 4.

[Anonymous No.776254]

>>776155
Any FFF (fused filament fabrication) 3D printer is not going to produce smooth surfaces for sliding parts or threaded holes for bolts. You will need to file off support material, tap holes, etc.

>>776236
100 microns is 0.1mm.

[Anonymous No.776261]

>>776254
>100 microns is 0.1mm.
100 microns are also 0.000010936133 American football fields

make a less pointless post next time. also mechanical constructs do NOT need smooth surfaces. they need them to be smooth enough to work, the rest will come from usage. and then there is tolerances and shit

you can expect 60-80% * nozzle size in variation along x and y axis. it's just how FDM/FFF works.

[Anonymous No.776264]

>>776261
I think he got a little confused because you just wrote 0.2 and no mm. It might seem obvious, but one might also think you ment 0.2 microns which would be crazy.

I actually prefer my layer thickness values in mm. Micron is to often used for advertising because it sounds more precise.

[Anonymous No.776296]

>>776261
Settle down, Beavis. You're not Lord of the RepRaps.

[Anonymous No.776349]

>>775718

Rip-Rap + plastic. See if you can get a recycler too. This way you can melt down and misprints and reuse the material.

At that cash it's the only thing you can afford.

[Anonymous No.776438]

Get a CNC router instead - it's more accurate and cuts stuff from reliable materials like wood, plastic or even aluminium. Later on it's easy to convert most CNC machines in to a 3D printer by just changing the head to the heatsink. This option should be taken in to consideration, because 3D printer can't be converted to a CNC router due to, usually, it's construction that couldn't support pressure (exception is lazer cutting).

[Anonymous No.776451]

>>776438
What's a good one to start with? I was considering this already.

[Anonymous No.776455]

>>776451
Oh and not OP.
>Just a guy that needs like 6 different 1'x6" thin aluminum plates cut. I need a ridiculous amount of cuts but low precision is
Cheapest quote I've gotten from anyone has been a local laser cutter, and it was still close to $300 if I provided material.
I feel at that price I can just better use the money to put towards a new tool.
>Or I could join a hacker space, but I really don't want to talk to people in person.

[Anonymous No.776461]

>>776254
>Any FFF (fused filament fabrication) 3D printer is not going to produce smooth surfaces for sliding parts or threaded holes for bolts. You will need to file off support material, tap holes, etc.

Op here, I'm all for finishing the parts. Sound like fun. Heck, I might even buy a 3d printer that isn't assembled yet.

[Anonymous No.776468]

>>776455

you could subscribe to a techshop, a few hundered bucks but you can make an appointment and use their cnc mill for free

[Anonymous No.776497]

>>775788
>>775803
>>775942

Op here again, sorry for all the questions. Which Prusa i3 kit would you guys recommend? What layer thickness can you get out of it?

Is layer thickness relative to resolution/accuracy?

[Anonymous No.776525]

>>776497
I cut my frame at a local hackspace. Look to ebay if you lack that option. I printed my structural parts but they are available on ebay (I sell them). I purchased my electronics off of Amazon.

Printed Parts - $30.00
Electronics - $220
Frame (melamine) - $40
Hardware - ~$80
Hotend - E3D clone $24.00
Power Supply - ~$20.00

Let's call it $420

http://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Printer-Accuracy-Self-assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424915042&sr=8-1&keywords=prusa+i3

Same price for a complete kit with a 0.4 mm nozzle. You'll reliable get 200 micron (0.2mm) vertical resolution with that. You can push to 100 micron with some difficulty.

A note on resolution. When slicing a model you specify layer height where 100-400 micron is typical. A 100 micron print will print 3 times slower than a 300 micron print. A smaller nozzle will print a more detailed print but will take longer and is more prone to jamming. A larger nozzle will print more quickly but you lose resolution. I use a 0.5 mm nozzle for my prusa which is used to print structural parts for sale to others. My solidoodle and printrbot are running a 0.3 and 0.4 nozzle respectively.

The image was printed on the solidoodle at 100 microns with a 0.3 mm nozzle.

[Anonymous No.776527]

This was printed at 300 micron with a 0.5mm nozzle.

[Anonymous No.776574]

>>776525
>You'll reliable get 200 micron (0.2mm) vertical resolution with that.

What about horizontal resolution? Or is that something that isn't generally cared for in 3d prints?

[Anonymous No.776613]

>>776574
horizontal resolution is a function of stepper motor steps and gear ratio and all between the motor and your extruder.
For my mendel max it is at 1/80mm per step but that is only the positioning accuracy you could theoretically gain... if the belts and gears and all the stuff between printhead and motor would not add errors.
Then there is also the filament flow and temperature which affects the resolution by the already mentioned: plus/minus "nozzle size * 60% to 80%". So my 0.5 nozzle will give me +- 0.4 in horizontal precision (x, y).
That is why i print screw holes around 0.25mm bigger in diameter and let the screw do the rest. it will be still a tight fit in most cases.


pic related. it's a recent testprint at 0.4mm layer height. obviously not smooth enough for that size but considering the print times it's good.
the small one printed in 90 minutes, the bigger one in 3 hours.

[Anonymous No.776714]

>>776613
Anon you need to delete this image before my wife sees it and buys a 3d printer to make doll props.
Anon pls

[Anonymous No.776719]

>>776527
>>776525
Damn son, you have your shit calibrated pretty well.

[Anonymous No.776725]

>>776527
Is it playable or just for decoration?

[Anonymous No.776746]

>>776714
oh sure. just let me try printing the model at 0.1mm with a 0.35mm nozzle so i can replace it with a better picture. if the print does not fail i will have it in 8 hours (lots of experimental settings and speeds)

[Anonymous No.776784]

>>776746
too bad. 1 hour into the print and my speeds were too fast, aborting for now.

[Anonymous No.776850]

Just gonna toss this out for discussion: acetone finishing. pic related

OP, if precision is what you want, I would recomend buying or building a mill. you can get mini's for 1 or 2,000 USD, and real big ones for about 4500 USD. perhaps a bit out of current price range, but if you can plan ahead a little, you can print your major part and then place exact holes ad stuff where needed.

[Anonymous No.776866]

>>776850
That's using fumes, right?
I rubbing the acetone directly too aggressive?

[Anonymous No.776880]

>>776866
rubbing acetone directly gives you a less even surface because it's dependent on you rubbing exactly the same all around. plus you risk leaving brushstrokes behind.

[Anonymous No.776909]

Not OP, but i'm looking to make a Prusia i3 . Would i need to modify the design to fit an extruder like this? :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-2mm-Nozzle-Thermocouple-Extruder-Print-Head-MK8-Latest-Upgrade-for-3D-Printer-/351006844026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51b9a3647a

[Anonymous No.776932]

>>776909
I think you probably would have to mod the x-carriage a little bit (i.e. design and print/fab a custom mount), but there's another issue. I bought something similar from Robotdigg a while back only to discover that it uses a thermocouple to measure the temperature as opposed to the more conventional thermistor. If you plan on using Ramps electronics, you'll need a ~$10 breakout board to convert the input. The one you listed from ebay also uses a thermocouple, so just something to consider.

My recommendation if you're just starting out is an authentic J-head with a Wade's geared extruder; that combo gives good results with minimal hassles in my experience The setup you posted would be more something to try after you've got your system to the point where you can print the x-carriage yourself.

[Anonymous No.776969]

>>776725
Playable but getting it in tune was a bitch. Took hours with a file and sandpaper. The thippel was the worst part.

[Anonymous No.777003]

>>776909
Maybe im just tired or something, but I dont see how you are supposed to mount that at all?

It would not fit on a standard I3 X carriage.

>>776932
Like this guy said, there is a reason the Wades and Jhead combo is so popular on I3s

[Anonymous No.777004]

>>776909
Also, for people looking into making an I3.

Check out the P3Steel frames.
Adds much needed rigidity to I3 builds.

[Anonymous No.777033]

>>777004
Im trying to find P3Steel frame here in the USA but cant find anything

Bunch of shit in spain though, im not paying 70 euros to have it shipped. The one on Ebay is the old model I think

[Anonymous No.777159]

Can i ask a question too?

I'm thinking about picking up a K8200 (aka 3Drag) as it is cheap and easily convertible into a tiny CNC.

However; is it actually any good?
Keep in mind I'm already expecting a mediocre 3d printer and a subpar CNC.
However, the K8200 has mixed reviews at best due to the wobbly z axis and the 0.5 nozzle that nearly guarantees low quality prints.
Any better suggestions for the 500 euros price range?

[Anonymous No.777169]

>>777003
>>776932
Ok, thanks anons, i'l just go the normal route with a Wade's extruder then. It's my first build and i dont want to over complicate things.

[Anonymous No.777172]

>>777159
Those motors look pretty small for a CNC machine. Cutting through material takes a lot more force than moving around a 3D print nozzle. A converted machine can probably go through a thin layer of copper, but it won't be able to handle much else.

[Anonymous No.777180]

>>777172
exactly that

also nearly all 3d printers are open loop, so they don't register when a misalignment happens due to skips in the motor or some resistance that moves the head not as far as expected. i really would never consider running something like a CNC mill without a closed loop (position feedback always live and accurate)


>>777159
the 0.5 nozzle is not a real problem. it adds more error in x and y direction when printing at <0.2mm layer heights but it also prints much faster and can go up to 0.4mm layer height.

for example my 0.35 nozzle can only print up to 0.3mm and even that is already 'critical' (layers don't stick that well together). and the difference on 0.1mm or 0.2mm layer heights is not that noticeable for me.

[Anonymous No.777523]

>>777159
I have been using that printer since last year and have had a good experience with it. I'm using 3 mm PLA filament to print. Would it be possible for me to use the 3 mm PLA with another extruder to make finer prints?

So far I've mainly printed cases for electronic projects like the one in the pic.
The lower left corner of the front had a slight mishap
but other than that it turned out just the way I had envisioned.

Its a good first printer. I'm thinking it could be upgraded and it seems compatible with Reprap.

Some maintenance and configuring is required for it to run smoothly. But it's relatively easy to set up and fix.

[Anonymous No.777640]

Op here. Would a kit like this contain all the parts I would want?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Folger-Tech-Prusa-i3-RepRap-Full-3D-Printer-Kit-w-Clear-Acrylic-Frame-/231301357105?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35daa29e31

And then I could just buy a aluminum/steel frame?

Or are some of the parts in that kit not favorable for printing mechanical parts?

[Anonymous No.777643]

>>777640
yeah it looks like it will contain all parts, the PSU may look different but from the description there is one included. it may be a computer PSU that you may want to open and cut up a bit (don't need all wires...)

buying another frame would require it to fit your design. but yeah you could just replace the acrylic parts with whatever construction you want.

you will want to add heat sinks to the stepper motor drivers. i don't see any listed in the description, fans may not be included as well.

But i did not see anything that would hinder you from printing stuff, mechanical parts should be possible with ABS and PLA with that printer. you should check out some youtube or other people reviews for the prusa i3 to see how sturdy the design is...

[Anonymous No.777646]

>>777169
This anon again. Should i go for an acrylic or MDF wood lazercut frame? Are there any differences or advantages to either one?
I'm planning on building it as cheap as possible, then upgrading to a metal frame and better parts as i learn more and can afford it.

[Anonymous No.777652]

>>777643
>buying another frame would require it to fit your design. but yeah you could just replace the acrylic parts with whatever construction you want.

How is this one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-frame-Prusa-i3-SC10UU-/261754131139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf1c312c3

>But i did not see anything that would hinder you from printing stuff, mechanical parts should be possible with ABS and PLA with that printer

I've been hearing talk about different extruders and what not. So I'm just wondering if it's the ideal size/type? Same goes for the other parts.

Thanks for all your help!

[Anonymous No.777661]

>>777640
Buy one with a steel frame in the first place
As soon as you heat up your printbed the Y chassis slightly warps back and forth because the acrylic in those kits cant handle it

It makes its very hard to calibrate the printer right and it screws leveling up and the whole bit.

This is a much better kit for not much more.

http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001

[Anonymous No.777664]

>>777640

plz no. That kit is shit, check out the reprap forums. Tons of people with missing parts, incorrect firmware, bent rods, dead boards.

Check out makerfarm (Not makerbot). The only problem I've seen is warping of the build plate (It's all lasercut wood) on the larger models. Very few complaints, well respected.

[Anonymous No.777667]

>>777661

Get ready for an extremely long wait and a horribly damaged box. Aside from that, most people seem pretty happy with it, much better than folgershit and acrylic kits.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,344338

[Anonymous No.777669]

>I have $1000 computer aided design to spend on a 3d printer.

[Anonymous No.777676]

I just got a prusa i3v from makerfarm for 540+shipping+ $5 off per spool of filament.
all it needs is a power suppply and a sheet of glass for the heated printbed.
10 hours of assembly and i had it going. works nicely out of the box printing at .2mm with the .5mm tip.

However I'm running into the universal problem where overall dimensions of say, a cube, are dead on size, but a .25" hole going though the cube is .010"-.020" undersized. All my research and tweaks and trying different slicers hasn't helped much and i shouldn't have to CAD models with oversized holes to compensate for slicers that can't do that themselves.

figured i'd ask here for advice rather than starting a thread. seems like there should be a 3d printing general thread

[Anonymous No.777679]

>>777676
i don't know of any way to tell your slicer(s) to fucking work properly. all of them will undersize holes and all of them will oversize the object. and with ABS you can be pretty sure that the 1% thermal expansion will make your outside walls all uneven (except with a heat chamber)

[Anonymous No.777686]

>>777661
>http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001
That's actually very cheap! The molded parts, iron/aluminum frame (why iron and not steel??), and the warranty seem very attractive. The kit cost's less than half of my budges, should I be buying something more expensive?

>>777664
>Check out makerfarm
Impressive. What makes this one worth the extra $200 as opposed to >>777661 ? Which nozzle would be best? How did they manage to squeeze a 50micron resolution out of it? All others seem to be 100-200 microns.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Anonymous No.777693]

>>777661
>http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001
That's actually very cheap! The molded parts, iron/aluminum frame (why iron and not steel??), and the warranty seem very attractive. The kit costs less than half of my budget, should I be buying something more expensive?

>>777664
>Check out makerfarm
Impressive. What makes this one worth the extra $200 as opposed to >>777661 ? Which nozzle would be best? How did they manage to squeeze a 50micron resolution out of it? All others seem to be 100-200 microns.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Anonymous No.777696]

>>777661
>http://www.replikeo.com/en/KIT001
That's actually very cheap! The molded parts, iron/aluminum frame (why iron and not steel??), and the warranty seems very attractive. The kit costs less than half of my budget, should I be buying something more expensive?

>>777664
>Check out makerfarm
Impressive. What makes this one worth the extra $200 as opposed to >>777661 ? Which nozzle would be best? How did they manage to squeeze a 50micron resolution out of it? All others seem to be 100-200 microns.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Anonymous No.777699]

>>777696

Support and quality. The dude who runs it, colin, responds quickly to emails and is quick to replace any damaged or defective parts. The only reason I didn't buy mine from him was that I got a deal on a mendelmax 1.5.

The resolution: He probably uses finer-pitched lead screws than the other kits. Possibly stepper motors with 0.9 degree steps instead of 1.8 (1.8 is the most common).

Look up makerfarm on the reprap forums or the reddit reprap section, usually nothing but praise. I had been worried about the wood swelling and warping, but it seems to only be a problem (if at all) on the build plate, fixed with either insulation or an aluminum plate.

also dat vslot extrusion.

I really wish he offered an aluminum framed version though.

[Anonymous No.777720]

>>777676

>>777679
i've only used pla so far and the outside perimeters are on size. it's just inside features that are off. reaming a hole isn't a problem but it's a problem when i shouldn't have to and when its more than just holes

>>777699
the motors say "TYPE 42bhh48-151k-24b", all 5 of them

there is an upgrade kit but you might as well just buy another printer http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/3d-printer-kits/makerfarm-i3-to-i3v-upgrade.html

[Anonymous No.777730]

>>777523
Ever thought about polishing it using acetone?
I wanna that clock actually looking good.

[Anonymous No.777838]

>>777696
>How did they manage to squeeze a 50micron resolution out of it? All others seem to be 100-200 microns.

All of the i3 repraps will do 50, just needs a good calibration and the right hotend
Dont look at it as a selling point.

Also the Replikeo "iron" is just steel

The Makerfarm is a really great kit too.

[Anonymous No.777842]

>>777676

so has no one else had this problem of holes and other interior features being undersized?

[Anonymous No.777854]

>>777842
Is it a bridging problem where the holes collapse a bit?

[Anonymous No.777856]

fuck pla, abs masterrace

[Anonymous No.777858]

>>777856
Pl-ahh

[Anonymous No.777859]

>>777856
I like how tough PLA is

[Anonymous No.777869]

>>777854
no, the hole is just undersized by about .010" i think i made this knob at about .2mm per layer and .1mm on the cube.

[Anonymous No.777893]

>>775718
>Any suggestions?
Don't respond to plebeian FDM users.
Hide all posts by plebeian FDM users.

Stereolithography / 3DLP master race.

[Anonymous No.777894]

>>777869
oh man your parts are pretty.
what machine do you have?

[Anonymous No.777909]

>>777894

>>777676
prusa i3v
i've kept to simple small stuff until i know i can make it accurate

[Anonymous No.777911]

>>777856
except ABS warping is a pain in the ass. i wish it would behave like PLA when printed.

PLA on the other side is shit because of 60°C glass transition point. can't even use that shit for a nice cup of coffee

>>777893
except muh materials cost 200USD/Kilo
except muh 3d printer even selfmade costs at least 2000USD
except muh power usage is much higher
except muh source materials could kill you instantly

[Anonymous No.777912]

>>777869
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.de/2011/02/polyholes.html
Is this what you experience? I hve the same problem and haven't found a satisfying solution.

>>777893
Building a top down SLA right now.
Don't respond to plebeian bottom up SLA users.
Hide all posts by bottom up SLA users.

Also 3DLP refers to a projector with 3 DMD chips. This is useless for SLA type printers as only near UV and blue counts. A single DMD is enough, sometimes the collorwheel needs to be removed though.

[Anonymous No.777916]

>>775947
I don't see a heated build chamber as a help -- at least nothing I've printed would benefit from it

[Anonymous No.777918]

>>776497
I wouldn't recommend a prusa i3 look at one of the delta printers, like kossel or rostock

[Anonymous No.777920]

>>777912
yup, alot of my research as pointed me to that. i don't want to (and shouldn't have to) make holes oversized for something that whatever CAM solution should be able to compensate for.
I also ran into this which boils down to someone made a perimeter inset option in an old version of cuva (which i couldn't get working) and a post processor that reduces the flow rate on perimeters (I still can't get perfect holes like this guy is)
http://www.deltarap.org/printing-undersized-holes/

[Anonymous No.777921]

>>777911
meh -- I loves my nylon
Weed wacker filament FTW!
//no I don't get clogs

[Anonymous No.777922]

>>777920
One thing. Don't consider purchasing simplify 3D. I did that and it isn't solved in their DRM ridden 140$ piece of shit.

[Anonymous No.777924]

>>777922
i'm this guy
>>777869
>>777676


>>777921
pics? how's the cost work out compared to filament?

[Anonymous No.777925]

>>777921
Don't heat it up to much though.

[Anonymous No.777929]

>>777924
here you go:
about half as much as PLA or ABS -- about 1/3 as much as nylon intended to be used for printing

>>777925
I stay well under 300C

[Anonymous No.777931]

>>777929
btw -- the one on the left was printed at 300mm/s and .05mm layer height
the left one I was experimenting with higher speeds (500mm) and nope. won't work
best two upgrades for 3d printing I've ever done:
moving to a delta style printer
and getting a smoothieboard controller

[Anonymous No.777932]

>>777929
that's pretty fucking neato
and this guy has pulled off some neat prints with it as well
http://www.tridimake.com/2013/04/3D-printing-with-cheap-trimmer-line.html

and for everyone else who keeps asking about the kind of quality you can get, have a look at this
http://www.tridimake.com/2013/05/3d-printing-with-smaller-nozzle-diameter.html

[Anonymous No.777936]

>>777931
>moving to a delta style printer

Op here, what make delta so much better? Should I forget about makerfarm then?

[Anonymous No.777937]

>>777932
>http://www.tridimake.com/2013/05/3d-printing-with-smaller-nozzle-diame
404

[Anonymous No.777938]

>>777937
>ter.html

[Anonymous No.777941]

>>777936
speed -- they print way faster than cartesian for 2 reasons -- the mass of the print head is lower --this is one reason the ultimaker is the fastest cartesian and instead of one motor working to move along each axis, the 3 work in tandum

ease of calibration:
tape a contact switch to your hot end(while it's off) send the G32 command -- and you're done! no need to level your bed even.

[Anonymous No.777942]

>>775935
What justifies more than $200 for these fucking machines?

They are literally robots built by other robots at this point.

[Anonymous No.777943]

>>777936
it's been a long thread, what does OP need to print? size, material?
i was going to get the printrbot metal for $540 but then found the prusa i3v on sale for the same price with the advantages of:
bigger capacity (8x8x8 instead of 6x6x6)
heated bed
spool holder (cheesy but works)

I see nothing wrong with the delta style and do like that it doesn't have 2 z motors like the prusa (not that i've had any problems with it).

the only con of them i know of is you can't make midi files into gcode to play music on them :P

>>777942
probably company support and the expectation that these machines will be running 24/7

[Anonymous No.777944]

>>777943
umm...
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150126-delta-reprap-3d-printer-plays-beethoven-fur-elise-using-only-motor-sounds.html

[Anonymous No.777945]

>>777943
That still makes no sense. Why would it be $300 to build my own?

[Anonymous No.777946]

>>777918
no, just no. they may look cool but they have a fucking bunch of own problems.

just to name a few:
- airtripper/non direct feed is horrible and hard to get good quality prints with.
- calibrating is a pain if you build one yourself. buying one is expensive on the other hand
- their build volume is not much bigger than a properly sized reprap
- you can't go as fast as a reprap with the same sized steppers.

but maybe i just need to fix my delta properly. can't go fast because of skips and motors getting misaligned

>>777941
must be some special software that does the calibration. damn i someday need to build myself a probe and autoleveling printer

[Anonymous No.777948]

>>777946
I've had fewer problems with my extruder than any of the various wade's extruders
auto-calibrate is supported by the smoothieboard, aztegg, as well as the repetier firmware for the ramps type controller boards -- I think there is even a spin-off of marlin that does so
as far build volume goes, how big is a box? just as big as needed to hold what you're putting in it
waay faster with delta than cartesian -- I'm printing at 300mm/s and travel moves at 3000mm/s -- yes, 3m/s
it jumps to home so fast it startles me

you definitely need good motors, and well adjusted motor drivers

I bought a $399 kossel -- you'll find them on ebay
then $160 for the smoothieboard
and 75$ for 3 good motors and 50$ for planar geared extrudermotor
100$ for a good all metal hot end
total cost 784 -- and I have enough spare parts, that I'll be building a friend a cartesian dremel powered CNC mill late this summer for the cost of nuts and bolts...

[Anonymous No.777950]

>>777948
>I'm printing at 300mm/s and travel moves at 3000mm/s -- yes, 3m/s
Do you have a video? Film it with a standard watch next to it?
That's a really high speed.

[Anonymous No.777952]

>>777950
wow -- I just realized... I have no clocks in the entire house that have seconds... the only thing I've got is my cellphone, which is usually what I'm filming with.

so -- nope I can't tonight. good thing this is a slow board.
I'll dig in the garage tomorrow and find a webcam, and film a wicked fast print :)

it surprised the hell out of me, after being used to my mendalmax which could never print faster than 90mm/s
to tide you over until then:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_qct8ecnas

[Anonymous No.777955]

>>777948
what motors, i am using the usual nema 17HS19-1684S that can put 44Ncm out. but i am running them at 1/8 microstepping (i think), maybe i shouldn't do that because it eats way too much torque/force. But then it's so much quieter...

[Anonymous No.777956]

>>777952
Ahah, time really has changed. You could print with the bottom right of your computer showing if you have a laptop, depending on whether your webcam is better than your cellphone camera.

[Anonymous No.777958]

>>777956
I could probably move my monitor around, but that's a pain in the ass -- I'll hit tomorrow.

>>777956
these for the towers:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and when it comes in, this for the extruder:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEVE57G

[Anonymous No.777960]

>>777958
so the same nema17s i have... need to troubleshoot my delta then, either the power is not strong enough or something else in my construction is totally off... like a too heavy head or someshit...

also yeah i know what 3m/s mean. tried some dryruns... but i think my design would not withstand such speeds over a longer time, as it's quite flexible compared to full metal builds

[Anonymous No.777961]

been real fun tonight -- I'm turning in -- been awake since 8:00am yesterday and it's 4:00am now.

I'll leave you with this god awful wiring mess -- I need to clean up:

[Anonymous No.777963]

>>777961
do what i did... print yourself a case of some sort with wire shafts. then curse at it for how horrible the design is and how there is not enough space for anything and never bring out a v2 of it.


finishing the rest of that spool... 3 more windings... lets see if the print will finish

[Anonymous No.778037]

What does everyone use on their print bed?

I have been using purple elmers glue stick on heated glass. It works really well.

It takes away the shiny look on the bottom of prints though, and that kinda sucks.

I tried blue tape on a cold bed when my heated bed died and it worked pretty well too.

[Anonymous No.778055]

>>778037
I just heat it up to 60°C and whipe some cum on with a paper towel. Good for PLA at 60°C and PLA at 110°C. I'm unable ro remove the parts while the glass is still hot, but when it cools down they get loose and sometimes snap of by themselves. That method is quite old. Many switched to hairspray later because of feminists bitching about it.

[Anonymous No.778056]

>>778055
ABS at 110°C of course.

[Anonymous No.778061]

>>778037
printing ABS on kapton and a heated bed at 110°C. works pretty good. haven't printed any PLA yet

[Anonymous No.778069]

>>778037
hairspray works, need to get a squeeze spray bottle instead of an aerosol

>>777961
you can never tell if people are on the other side of the world or the same timezone in cases like this. that's a slightly amusing pic to wake up to

[Anonymous No.778094]

>>775718
How are you going to trade a $1000 CAD? Didn't you read the EULA? License is non-transferable.

[Anonymous No.778105]

>>777943
>it's been a long thread, what does OP need to print? size, material?

Indeed my thread got pretty long. I would like to be printing mechanical parts like gears, and replicas of existing mechanisms (Such as firearm trigger mechanisms). I don't need a HUGE printing area because most of my projects would be composed of smaller parts. I'm guessing PLA is the best for mechanics? So far you guys have me interested in the Makerfarm Prusa i3. But with all the people suggesting other printers, I'm getting pretty confused.

Thanks for asking :P

[Anonymous No.778141]

>>778105
okay, so we are kinda trying to make the same stuff. precision parts.
here's what i've been able to get with the makerfarm i3v. it's just like any other i3 except extruded aluminum rails and vslot bearings.
>>777869
I've only had it for a week now and got some real nice prints considering this is my first printer.
However as much as i'd hate to admit defeat, it looks like there's no other way at the moment to solve the interior feature undersize (holes/slots) problem i've been having other than to design it oversize to compensate until the different CAM solutions catch up.

[Anonymous No.778151]

>>778105
I'd highly reccomend a delta printer -- a full kit like seemecnc rostock will do what you want and more.
I'm reccording my 300mm/s print job right now, since it was requested

[Anonymous No.778218]

Okay -- here's my fast print -- skip to around 9:10 in the video for where it starts getting impressive
I put my setting in the video description

http://youtu.be/33rKcSvAHUE

[Anonymous No.778235]

>>778218
That's an impressive acceleration for something so small.

>>777932
Has anyone already printed a pocket pussy?
I feel like you could come up with some innovative designs, especially if you have a double-headed printer.
You could vary between nylon and ABS to achieve more complexity.

[Anonymous No.778247]

>>778235
you're overthinking it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTIFs_ILu1w

[Anonymous No.778267]

>>778247
Or maybe I don't want to rip my wallet.

[Anonymous No.778333]

>>775803
I have a DaVinci Its over a year old now. Very early firmware back when it was still easy to hack. I can generate the Gcode myself and base64 encode it into a working file in about a min. This loads right onto the printer through their old software. I never even have to do the filament hack because generating my own gcode it shows 0 filament usage. I haven't upgraded any software/firmware since I got it . I have a few more parts I need to print in the next few weeks an then I'm going to try to upgrade it the repetier firmware.

I get great results from the hardware now that I have the Slic3r settings locked down pretty well.

I have a Rigidbot at work. It does a very nice job and has a huge print area. We have some ideas to upgrade it with an enclosure and a few other upgrades but the results right now are great we're just looking to see how far we can push it.

BTW we used to have an older model Cubex Duo that thing was junk that never worked

[Anonymous No.778582]

>>778267
if you don't want to rip your wallet... i don't either... go with the alternative to creating human body parts. that is:
a) print a proxy and create a mold with it
b) print the mold directly

then use something like dragon skin (flexible rubber) and create as many replicas as you wish or need for your daily use.

[Anonymous No.778690]

>>778582
Soon we can pirate bad dragon sex toys.
What a time to be alive.

[Anonymous No.778696]

>>778690
twas a good day on /g/ when that well made shop was made

[Anonymous No.778738]

>>778690
Yeah, as long as you remember not to directly stick the printed dragon dildo up your ass!
You have to cast it out of silicon first.

[Anonymous No.778751]

>>778738
Of course you don't, do i look like some kind of dildo printing newbie to you?
First you print a thin mold in abs. Then you smooth out the insides with acetone vapor.
Thoroughly rinse it so no chemical can interfere with the catalytic process and line the mold with some releasing agent/dish soap.
Fill it with your favorite brand of platinum cure silicone and break your best new friend out of its plastic prison once it's cured!

All joking aside, I'm actually both surprised and disappointed no one has 3d scanned their silicone monstrosity yet.
You'd expect bad dragon to have at least some tech-savvy costumers with a consumer base that large and young, not not even mentioning a disposable income.

[Anonymous No.778754]

>>778751
because if you have a 3d printer and know how that stuff works you don't bother with dragon dildo replicas.

you make other stuff... actually i need to resupply my raw materials, damnit!

[Anonymous No.778826]

>>775718
So, I just replaced all of my A4988 stepper drivers with DRV8825s.

It doesnt affect quality from what I can see, but the decrease in noise is immense.
It has probably cut the stepper noise in half.
I have it in my room and it has made it much more comfortable to have it running in the background.

Very much worth the "upgrade" to them. They are only like 10$ for a whole set on ebay.
Not only that, the purple boards look cool.

[Anonymous No.778982]

>>778696
>>778690
Seeing others repost this makes me glad I did it.

[Anonymous No.778984]

>>775718

Stereolithography, don't get anything with a nozzle

They will be servilely outdated soon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjaUasw64VE

[Anonymous No.778991]

>>778982
Would you like us to suck your cock anon? Is that why you pointed out that "you" did something on a website where everything is a repost of a repost?

How about you trip up so we can worship you on sight? Is that what you want?

[Anonymous No.778996]

>>778984
precision yeah. but rigidity none. These fucking lithoprints are fucking brittle. you can't use it for mechanical shit.

also... need to wash the print before touching it. because of toxics that will kill you pretty much if you touch them. this is none of that ABS/PLA fume smell killing this is like touching ACID with your bare skin, or even worse.

Did i mention the price of the liquid? 200usd+ per litre.

i wish the tech would advance a bit further into something like this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTD475HxQlA
someday i will build myself one of them monsters

[Anonymous No.779019]

>>778996
This is >>777912
There are affordable resins available at about $50/L
Also not that toxic. Touching it is fine if you wash your hands later. You shouldn't drink the stuff though. There are fairly flexible variants available as well.

[Anonymous No.779090]

>>778991
A blowjob would be nice actually. Thanks for offering.

[Anonymous No.779428]

>>778996
>>779019
I think the toxicity is perhaps overstated, but I still definitely have reservations about storing polymer resins of any kind at my home ... I have to live there. It might might be different if I had a workshop with a fridge, but I don't.
All that considered, I think I'll stick with my spools, thanks.

[Anonymous No.779453]

>>779428
Im waiting for a decent priced one to hit the market in the 5-600$ range. And not a fucking peachy printer sized one. In a year or twos time we will be seeing them im sure.

FFF printers will do fine until then, which is nice how fast in popularity they are growing .

[Anonymous No.779462]

>>779428
>>779453
I think it's wrong to think FDM/FFF will be replaced by SLA. It's a different machine with different uses. I can understand not wanting to have to handle liquid photo polymer all the time. I remember someone sold his diy SLA for that reason.

[Anonymous No.779495]

>>779453
I totally forgot about the peachy printer.
I just looked and they STILL havent gotten their shit shipped.
I wanted one way back when, and the preorder is still up. Im considering buying one just because.

>>779462
>>779428
I am ignorant, is the resin really nasty stuff?
I have never actually looked into resin printers before.

[Anonymous No.779516]

>>779495
This is >>779462
It's not "nasty". You are supposed to wear gloves and glasses when handling it. But It won't kill you if you accidently get a drop on your skin. It's more the hassle of geting it back out of your vat when you stop printing and shaking the bottle when you start again. That sort of stuff. However I once bought some photocurable resin ment for casting. I'll never open its container again. It smelled way more than what I'm using now.

[Anonymous No.779626]

>>779428
Me again. I'm actually a chemist by training and occupation (inb4 Heisenberg), so I can tell you that many of the SLA resins (for hobbyists) I've seen are aqueous (i.e. water based) and they're not terribly bad for you, but they're not great either. As suggested, a drop on you won't kill you or even necessarily do much of anything, but I'm inclined to err on the side of caution and treat everything as potentially toxic and/or carcinogenic; if you have kids or pets, think extra carefully about how you plan to store it, clean it up if it spills, and dispose of it safely. My suggestion is that if it has no MSDS associated with it on the website, avoid it entirely. If it has an MSDS, google is your friend. Safety first, yeah?

[Anonymous No.779677]

>>777869
i made another thing guys

we really just need a 3d print general

[Anonymous No.779686]

>>779677
What are your print settings?

Looking pretty good.

[Anonymous No.779695]

>>779677
I think a /3dpg/ would be great.

Whenever a thread like this comes up there tends to be enough people in them to keep them going for quite a long time.
Should we just make a thread and roll with it?

[Anonymous No.779699]

>>779686
does the code thing work in diy? if so then how the hell do you use it? we'd be able to share config files like that

prusa i3v 8"
3mm pla filament
.5mm tip
60 degrees bed
185 degrees extruder

slic3r
layer height = .02mm
infill = 20% honeycomb
most of my speeds are 60mm/s with 30 on perimeters
i had support material but it broke from the bed before it got to where it would've been used
default extrusion width = .2mm

>>779695
sounds good, should gather some resources that'll answer a lot of FAQ for the OP posts. I'm not sure where to point other than what reddit already has on the subject.
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

[Anonymous No.779887]

>>779699
>infill = 20% honeycomb
i always use rectilinear for infill. i don't like my printer going patterns and all shaky when doing something simple as stable infill.

however i use honeycomb for support, because it's fucking easy to remove and brittle.

also there is http://forums.reprap.org/ if you don't already know about it.

[Anonymous No.779934]

>>779695
>>779677
Welp since nobody else seems to want to make it, here is a general
I took the links from this thread and put them as pitiful "resources" and all that.

>>779932
>>779932
>>779932

Come in and post pics of your printer, prints, whatever else related to 3d printing.

[Anonymous No.780381]

>>775718
Any printer you buy for $1000 will be worse than useless. You need to spend 10 to 20 times that much to have a tool that is even remotely useful.

[Anonymous No.780384]

>>780381
yeah except stratsys FDM printers cost 10 to 20 times that of the current printers. they did cost like 100 to 200 times that and you know what... no fucking difference to FFF because muh the same technique and the same fucking shit, just sold muh expensive.

[Anonymous No.780396]

>>780381
I manage to turn out decent widgets using a system I (over)built for like $700 all in ... Methinks you don't know shit about shit friend.

[Anonymous No.780421]

>>780396
If you are using the stuff in that pic as an example to prove your point you have already lost the argument, the resolution and surface texture is clearly shit. What do you define as useful?

[Anonymous No.780456]

>>780421
What do you define as useful? All the couplings of my current printer were printed, so clearly it's good enough for that. I printed a replacement car handle for one that broke. I plan on printing the timing belts for my next printer.
I think you're missing the point (and don't know shit about shit).

[Anonymous No.781298]

MakerFarm good for gears?

[Anonymous No.781307]

>>775718
Currently using a Printrbot metal, accuracy is good within 0.01 (things fit with other things just fine) But I'm getting kind of sick of pre-mades and just want to make my own shit.

Tried sketchup: Defaults to inches even after changing to millimeters, can't change size/print bed template.
123design: doesn't seem to let me adjust parameters on primitives more than once (including width/height after entering one or the other).
I assume the response is going to be "just pirate a full copy of Autodesk CAD idiot" but does anyone have a decent CAD software setup tutorial or other info?

[Anonymous No.781309]

>>781307
Well, shit. Didn't see that before I posted.

[Anonymous No.781328]

>>781309
Ugh, replied to myself meant that for.
>>779934

[Anonymous No.781410]

>>781307
i wouldn't say piracy is the go to answer. i just know how to use inventor and it's easy. there ought to be a setting in your slicer on weather or not your stl file is inches or mm. assuming sketchup really is broke.

[Anonymous No.781448]

Do not buy any sort of makerbot. This shit will happen

[Anonymous No.781451]

>>781448
Jesus Christ. Can you at least replace the parts yourself like a /diy/ed printer would let you?

[Anonymous No.781456]

>>781448
i'm going to need another pic cause i have no idea what i'm seeing other than maybe a dragon dildo

[Anonymous No.781497]

>>781451
read up on makerbot's "smart extruder"
on look for reviews of it on youtube

[Anonymous No.781524]

>>781497
That extruder looks like it came out of an HP laser printer. You could dismiss it as proprietary and anti-repairable garbage, but parts made like this accomplish maintainability and lower costs.
A non-technical 3D printer user who simply wants the thing to work can simply buy a replacement and pop it in quite easily. The defective extruder can be returned, repaired at a later convenience or disposed of.
Now, you could make an easy to replace extruder that's also easy to repair, but all those screws won't pay for themselves, and the majority of users would be wasting their money on screws without gaining anything.

[Anonymous No.781528]

>>781524
lower costs? maintainability?
makerbot's smart extruder module cost $175..
they sell them in three packs, they fail so often.
opening them to repair voids warranty...
even the expensive hot ends for other 3d printers come in at around half that. but in 4 years of printing, the only thing that I've changed was the nozzle
/// unless that post was trolling, in which case, well done!-- I literally sprayed coffee reading that.

[Anonymous No.781551]

>>781524
We had a MakerBot at my work... the "smart extruders" lasted anywhere from 50 to 200 print-hours. We went through more extruders than filament spools! After replacing the extruder about 5 times, we simply gave up on it.

Professional FFF printers, like the uPrint, have a maintenance schedule: a new nozzle every 2000 print-hours. Replacing an extruder module every 2000 print-hours would be fair, that's a new extruder for every 10 filament spools. Replacing an extruder module every 100 print-hours is bullshit.