Stupid Questions General

[Anonymous No.669718]

Didn't see anything like this in the catalog so I thought I'd make one.
>ASKAN
>REPLYAN
>DO IT YOURSELFAN

Is there any easy way to fuck up re-caulking something? I'm resealing the rail/guide/frame of some shower doors onto the bathtub. Scraped off all the old shit and I'm letting it dry. Is it just as simple as apply, attach, and let cure?

[Anonymous No.669719]

That's really about it. Just don't forget to read the cure time on the tubes you buy so you don't wet it before it's ready.

[Anonymous No.669724]

>>669718
>Stupid Questions General

we are re-naming /diy/ to /sqg/?

[Anonymous No.669747]

>>669718
What do the instructions on the side say?

[FatMonty No.669789]

Is there an easy way to remove WD-40 residue from something metal before spray painting it?

Would just hosing it down with rubbing alcohol do the trick?

[Anonymous No.669794]

>>669789
Soapy water and a rag. You don't need rubbing alcohol.
But if you want to do a final wipe down with rubbing alcohol, use 99% iso not the 70% or whatever diluted shit.

[FatMonty No.669818]

>>669794

Awesome, thank you

[Anonymous No.669934]

>>669718
How do I remove a final stuck Phillips screw that is over tightened without damaging both the screw or the screwdriver. ( Im already on my second driver) why is there always one that is a pain to remove ? I'm sure they do it on purpose.

[Anonymous No.669941]

Is repairing a window just heating up the putty, getting off with chisel, remove old glass, remove framers pins, insert new pins, put in new glass, and reputty?

[Ellie No.669945]

>>669934
>How do I remove a final stuck Phillips screw that is over tightened without damaging both the screw or the screwdriver.

Impact screwdriver. Put on screw, twist, whack with hammer, remove loosened screw, treat wrist pain with ice pack.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

[Ellie No.669949]

>>669941
>repairing a window just heating up the putty, getting off with chisel, remove old glass, remove framers pins, insert new pins, put in new glass, and reputty

That's the idea. The putty is called glazers putty. Use masking tape to make a clean edge and remember to paint the putty when you are done.

[Anonymous No.669950]

>>669945
All shops are shut now but will grab tomorrow. Cheers dude. So close to getting job done and the final screw was my undoing. (Bloody children putting money in my amplifier)

[FatMonty No.669953]

>>669950

Also, loosen all the screws before you start taking any all the way out. Just go through and give all of them a few turns

[Anonymous No.670030]

Complete and total moron question..

How do I get better at measuring accuratly.
I always seem to be off.

[Anonymous No.670035]

>>670030
Measure with what?
What are you measuring?
If tape measure, make sure the end you're hooking to is clean and square or hook in the same place for repeated measurements.
Always measure twice and compare. Third time if necessary. If you put a mark down, remeasure it.

[Anonymous No.670038]

>>670035
Any kind of measuring tool. Measure 3 times, get three different results, and still different to something else I measured and cut earlier.

Maybe I just suck.

[Anonymous No.670039]

>>669718
as far as caulking a tub, a few tips
>fill tub with water before caulking, as the tub will flex to a certain degree when full, you don't want the caulking to pull away due to this later.
>use masking tape on both sides to get a nice clean even caulk line.

[Anonymous No.670040]

>>670030
I find that the best tool for measuring is the TALmeter:
http://www.talmeter.co.uk
It takes a little while to get used to but make sure to read the instructions to get to know the features. This is assuming you want to measure for carpentry our similar and not for mechanical uses (millimetre scale and not micrometre)

[Anonymous No.670041]

>>670038
A tape should be strait, flat and hooked to the same place.
Probably just need more patience.
If you keep getting different measurements, keep at it until you get consistent measurements, then work on accuracy.

[Anonymous No.670075]

>>670038

Another thing that I have found really important over the years is...a very sharp pencil...

A carpenters pencil doesn't work well for trim...it's lead is too thick, I usually use a mechanical pencil myself...I buy them at Lee Valley in 10 packs at a time...

Learn where your mark is reading...is it on the line, or at the line...this can be as much as 1/32" difference in your measuring and cutting...

Always do your measuring and cutting the same way...don't start switching it up...do it the same way, all of the time...you will gain a huge amount of consistancy and accuracy this way...

I hope this helps...

[Anonymous No.670092]

>>669718
>Is there any easy way to fuck up re-caulking something?
Not letting it dry thoroughly enough. Depending on the conditions (humidity and temperature) and the condition around the tub (loose tiles, old caulk let water in, etc), it may need to dry for 3 days or more. I'd say 24 hours after you've stripped the old caulk as a minimum, then go and smell near the gap. If it smells damp, then it needs to dry more.

[Anonymous No.670094]

>>670075
I started drawing an arrow on my waste side point to the edge of the mark that is the work.

[Anonymous No.670096]

>>670030
>>670035
Another thing about tape measures - you can pretty much assume that the clip on the end will be loose enough to move, so to get a more accurate measurement for shorter distances, you may want to hold the tape past the edge and start measuring from the 1" mark.

>>670092
Also, I should clarify: I wasn't referring to the caulk cure time, but letting the gap dry out completely.

[Anonymous No.670099]

Fixable?

[Anonymous No.670103]

So, I recently bought an Arduino Uno and I'm trying not to use a breadboard because space is a factor

Basically, I have two components besides the Arduino, a servo and a potentiometer. Both require a data pin (digital for the servo and analog for the potentiometer), a ground, and a 5V pin. The Arduino Uno has 2 ground pins, but only one 5V pin. How do I best connect both 5V pins so I can use both components?

Worst comes to worst, I buy a breadboard. But, I really wouldn't like to

[Anonymous No.670107]

>>670096
>you can pretty much assume that the clip on the end will be loose enough to move
It moves the thickness of the "tab" so that you can hook it, or but it against something with equal accuracy.
Using the 1" mark is good advice though, especially when measuring from a line. I prefer the 10" mark though, so that if you forget to subtract it, you can see that the measurement is 10" off where you may not notice 1"

>>670099
Maybe, but is it worth it?
Cut some metal strips wide enough to extend over both parts. Drill some holes and pop rivet (or bolt) it back together. silicon where necessary to keep water out.

[Ellie No.670108]

>>670103
>Arduino UNO ...pot...servo

Hi. Most servos don't need regulated power. If yours is one of these then you can power it from your DC supply.

[Anonymous No.670111]

>>670108
I wasn't regulating the power to the servo with the pot, if that's what you mean.

If not, are you saying I don't need to hook anything up to the 5V pin on my Arduino?

Sorry if I come across as a moron, I really don't have much experience with this (I've worked with the Arduino before but not with any of the hardware stuff)

[Ellie No.670428]

>>670111
>Sorry if I come across as a moron, I really don't have much experience with this (I've worked with the Arduino before but not with any of the hardware stuff)

No problem, my answer was a little vague.

My first question is, how are you powering your project?

The Arduino takes "dirty" power from your power supply and uses a Voltage Regulator to make it "clean". This "clean" power is what is on the 5v pin of your UNO.

The servo has 3 wires. Power(+), Signal, and Ground.

Generally you don't want to use the chip's "Clean" power to power your servo. The Power(+) lead can be connected directly to your power supply as long as it is between 4.5 and 6 volts. It is possible to use the clean power, just not the best. The downside is that rapid direction changes on a big servo can cause the arduino to reset.

So you have two options

For both options:
Pot Left Lead = Arduino 5v pin
Pot Center Lead = Arduino Analog input pin
Pot Right Lead = Arduino Ground pin
Servo Signal (The center wire of most servo connectors) = Arduino PWM output pin
Power Supply+ = power switch
Power Supply- = Servo Ground and Arduino Ground

If you want to power the servo from your power supply (Assuming the power supply is between 5-6v) instead of the arduino clean "Regulated" power...
Power switch = Servo Power(+) and Arduino Power(+)

If you want to use the arduino clean "regulated" power even though it might cause issues
Power switch = Arduino Power(+)
Arduino 5v = servo Power(+) AND Pot Left lead.

The TLDR; version of this answer is "You can use the same 5v connnection for both the POT and the Servo Power(+) connections."

[Anonymous No.670435]

>>670030
Well first is having accurate tools appropriate to the job.
Second is being consistent in marking the piece. And cutting in relation to the mark correctly and consistently.
And that's really about it. Practicing is important, when I go months without doing anything, I always fuck up my first couple of cuts.

[Anonymous No.670479]

I'm about to pull the trigger on this Hakko FX-888D and Panavise. Anyone own them that can give me a quick review?

My current iron is way too fucking hot even though its only 40 watts so its time to fucking invest in something good.

[Anonymous No.670495]

I found a signal stat at a flea market and bought it on a whim for a dollar, what should I do with it?

[Anonymous No.670496]

>>670495
Forgot to mention,
Written on lenses:Cyclostat II SAE STI-64
signal stat NY toronto
written on the metal part: signal stat 38

any idea what it takes to light the thing?

[Anonymous No.670580]

Here's one for the laser nerds.
I've been doing some Googling but it's hard to find price tags and specifics, so:
Does anyone know the cheapest/most compact source I could get for 193 nm light? Either lasers or collimated? So far all I'm really finding is ArF excimer lasers, but I was wondering if that was my only option. Plus I have no idea where to shop.
Thanks in advance!

[Anonymous No.670593]

>>669747
Just apply and let cure 3 hours
>3 hours
Giving it 24

>>670039
Wasn't doing the whole tub, just the rail.
Damn, the tape is a good idea, I wish I had done that.

>>670092
Yeah I gave it a day after removing the old shit, it was all soggy and nasty.

[Anonymous No.670658]

>>670030
Measure twice.

[Anonymous No.670665]

>>670030
Are you taking into account the width of the cut?

[Anonymous No.670706]

>>670580
wasnt there a real lasergun that if focused correctly blew up the air a few feet infront of it

[Anonymous No.670710]

We haven't cleaned the pool in months and no matter what we do the green algae stains don't come out. Also when we vacuum all the crap from the bottom comes out of the jets.
Should we just pebble plaster the pool? I've had enough of cleaning it repeatedly for no reason.

[Anonymous No.670713]

What is the best way to clean out decades worth of varnished gasoline from a vehicles fuel tank? (pic related, just starting to try to get this thing running)

I tried asking /o/ but they were too busy being trolled by a 22 year old wanting to buy a dodge viper and wut car is gud threads.

[Anonymous No.670730]

>>670706
Goddamn I hope so. That sounds bitchin'.
Seriously, though; I've got a killer project I want to put together.

[Ellie No.670745]

>>670713
>best way to clean out decades worth of varnished gasoline from a vehicles fuel tank?
Gasoline and marvel mystery oil is a decent solvent. You can pull the sending unit for access inside the tank if you want. Is it an original VW motor? If so, what year?

Save cleaning out the tank for later though. You can get it running with a gravity fed squeezee bottle of gas now, and clean it later.

[Anonymous No.670754]

If a circuit with more reactance consumes less power, why do electrical companies want high-consumption places (like factories) to make their 'load' more resistive?

[Anonymous No.670780]

>>670754
>>670754
http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlux/hv/pfc.htm

is this what you are talking about? power factor correction?

[Anonymous No.670783]

>>670780

Yes, I think. Does more reactance mean more power consumption? I thought it was the other way around.

[Anonymous No.670785]

>>670713
>What is the best way to clean out decades worth of varnished gasoline from a vehicles fuel tank? (pic related, just starting to try to get this thing running)
places that sell painting supplies (like, interior/exterior house paints) sell gallon cans of toluene, xylene or acetone. Any of those are good, just get whichever is cheapest.

be VERY careful and don't let the stuff touch your skin. using goggles is wise because toluene and xylene give off heavy irritating fumes.

I am getting a junker bug running again myself. I just bought a new tank & sending unit, because the tank had signs of rust damage and repair attempts, and still had stains from leaking.

[Anonymous No.670826]

>>670783
>I thought it was the other way around.
Where did you get your information?

Look up the wiki articles for reactance, and then power factor.

The further the power factor is below 1, the more reactive the load, and more current is required to deliver the same power than if the power factor was 1.

[Anonymous No.670836]

>>670826

It was some demonstration video in which two circuits where connected to a watt-meter, one of them was an led in series with a resistor, and the other one was in series with a capacitor such that the two would have the same impedance at 60Hz.

The circuit with the capacitor consumed much less power that the circuit with the purely resistive load.

[Anonymous No.670997]

>>670836
>resistive load

[Anonymous No.671002]

>>670997
what are you 12

[Anonymous No.671012]

>>670428
I strongly recommend against using the Arduino +5v output with the servo. It'll draw way too much power for the arduino's on board regulator.

[Anonymous No.671021]

>>670096
>mfw the point of the tab is to move

i know anon, i couldn't believe it when i read this on the label of my first own tape measure because i was bored on the ride home.

i was like, holy shit.

[Anonymous No.671098]

I recently obtained some IN-14 Nixie Tubes and am having trouble trying to get them to light. Looking at datasheets online, the IN-14 is supposed to have a max voltage of 170V and a max current of 2.5 mA.

My questions:

How can you have a maximum voltage AND amperage? (Is this provided to calculate the tube's resistance?)

How does 9V with 10k carbon resistor not provide the necessary power? (Is it because the tube's resistance is so high?)

Datasheet: http://tubehobby.com/datasheets/in14.pdf

[Anonymous No.671107]

>>671098
>how can you have a maximum voltage and a maximum current?
When the resistance is not fixed, for instance if it is a function of temperature or voltage.

The purpose of a fluorescent ballast is to limit the current, as the tube's resistance is inversely proportional to the amount of excited plasma, which is itself proportional to the power, which at a fixed voltage is proportional to the current.

If you don't limit the current, the cycle runs away and you blow the tube.

[Anonymous No.671151]

>>671107
Thanks, I appreciate the time and elegance you took in writing. I'm still trying to piece it together but your first and last line are helping me with the middle. I will look at more schematics and see how they deal with voltage and how it relates to your post. Once again, thanks!

[Anonymous No.671154]

>>671151

Last time I did nixie stuff I just bought a 12v-to-170v DC stepup board on ebay. It gave me 5v out for my ttl control circuitry, too.

[Anonymous No.671170]

>>671154
That would be super useful, do you still have a link?

[Anonymous No.671183]

[Anonymous No.671187]

[Anonymous No.671191]

>>671183
>>671187

[Anonymous No.671201]

>>671187

[Anonymous No.671228]

What wood glue should would you guys recommend for making something like this table (http://www.instructables.com/id/Coffee-Table-from-Pallet/#step1)? Will titebond II or something that is equivalent to it work or should I use something else to bond it?

[Anonymous No.671244]

you can pull an inverter from an old scanner, the kind that use a skinny fluorescent tube, that will typically give you 180Vac from 12Vdc. (you can find these old scanners on the sidewalk; the inverter circuit is almost always separate from the main PCB.) you can then rectify the AC with a diode, filter with a cap, and maybe reduce voltage with a series resistor.

[Anonymous No.671252]

>>671228
I've had success using Titebond for years, especially for intricate things such as bowls and cups. I would definitely recommend it.

[Anonymous No.671259]

Long time lurker, first time /diy/ poster.

I'm looking to add a temporary wall that can easily be taken down, or at the very least can be screwed off to my living room and making it into another room in my apartment.

I don't mind using fabric, I don't care about sound leakage, I just need privacy.

[Anonymous No.671299]

>>671259

dunno what they call 'em, maybe ''decorative wall panels'' but they sell them at big hardware stores. they're very large, probably as high as your ceiling, made of thin wood, so they're light, and pretty cheap. you can just hang them from the ceiling with a couple of 90-deg brackets, and keep the bottom from moving by attaching to furniture legs, for example.

[Anonymous No.672745]

How do I make my bedroom door stop squeaking?

WD-40 or something?

[Anonymous No.672756]

>>672745
3 in 1 oil would be better, wd40 will only work for a couple dats

[Anonymous No.672802]

>>672745
Grease, or chain lube work too.

If you don't want to bother buying any of this stuff, if it's just for one door...
Try a few drops of cooking oil. Or baby oil, or glycerine.

[Anonymous No.672806]

Why do they you should call the electrical company before digging in your backyard? Is there a big risk?

[Ellie No.672810]

>>672806
If you hit a natural gas line or a buried electrical line you can let the smoke out of you.

If you live through it, you'll be liable for any damage.

The Phone number is 311 or 511 in most of the US.

[Anonymous No.672817]

Hello /diy/ I have an electrical question for you.

We have a fuse box in our home and a couple of weeks ago some of the fuses blew. Now the electricity doesn't flow to some of the rooms on one side of our house. We tried replacing the fuses but every time we insert one into the box it blows immediately. Does anyone know what the issue could be and the potential cost it would take to get it fix?

[Anonymous No.672819]

>>672817
If it blows immediately it sounds like you have a short circuit.
Finding the problem could take minutes or hours, expect the worst and hope for the best.

[Anonymous No.672826]

The faucet in my kitchen sink is leaking. What might have caused it to leak? Is it something that I can just caulk or whatever?

[Anonymous No.672827]

>>672826
Where is it leaking from? Do you mean a leak or a drip? No, whatever the problem, you can't just caulk it. If you are lucky its not a plastic piece of shit and there are some rubber seals inside that you can replace for like 35 cents. If not, you need a new faucet or learn to live with the higher water bills.

[Anonymous No.672997]

>>672817
unplug ALL appliances. replace fuse. if it blows with no appliances plugged in (unlikely), call an electrician. if not, plug in appliances one at a time. once it blows, you know that the last appliance you plugged in is faulty.

[Anonymous No.673985]

Figured this didn't warrant its own thread.

So /diy/ I was attempting to make a pong table. I've gotten pretty much through all of it except for the last couple of steps. I'm trying to make a design on it. I'm taping it off but when I tape off the design is always around 1/4 of an ich off symetrical.

Any tips on how to get it more precise?

[Anonymous No.674132]

>>669718
Stupid question.

I want to run an ethernet cable from the second floor to the basement.

Can I just remove the phone jack (which is attached to an inner wall) on the second floor and drop a weight string down? This wall on the second floor is above a wall on the first floor. Are walls like this usually hollow inbetween them and would the weighed string eventually land on the basement ceiling?

[Anonymous No.674148]

>>674132
Why don't you try it and see?

If the floor's done with joists, the joists will go under the walls but the panels will not. If it's concrete, not so much.

You could also stick your phone in the hole and have a look.

Frankly, the quickest, cheapest, and easiest way to find out is to try it and see. If you don't get a bit of string back, who cares?

[Anonymous No.674185]

I want to make something like pic-related. They're called stall bars, and are used in gymnastics. The bars need to be strong enough to support about 300 pounds(like an explosive exercise) without bending significantly. The bars are about 1 and 1/4 inch in diameter.

I'm trying to decide between wooden dowel rods, and PVC pipe filled with concrete. Is any wooden dowel strong enough? If I use PVC, what can I put on the rods to improve the grip?

[Anonymous No.674190]

>>674185
How wide do the bars need to be? The longer the span the less weight they can support. Looks to be about 2 feet. So a 1 1/4" dowel should be able to support several hundred pounds over that length. Just remember that it will have a dynamic load which can multiply it but many times the weight.

[Anonymous No.674192]

>>674190
The standard length is 3 feet. By dynamic load you mean it can support more weight temporarily?

[Anonymous No.674240]

>>674132
Most likely, no the wall is not just hollow down to the basement ceiling. But if the phone line runs through a hole drilled in the base plate of the wall framing, you might be able to thread the ethernet along the same path.

[Anonymous No.674243]

>>674192
I believe that he means that if you are jumping and bouncing on the bars, it will increase the strain you are putting on the bars compared to, say hanging a heavy bag from it.

Think Olympic uneven bars compared to a pull-up bar.

[Anonymous No.674248]

>>673985
Make a stencil out of cardboard or card stock

[Anonymous No.674467]

I'm going to be making a silicone mold for an item I'd like to use in a soap project but it looks like I bought is just for kitchen/bathroom use. Should I swap it out for one that is food-safe or would the finished mold be okay to make soaps in?

[Anonymous No.674545]

What's the best way to frame a CD album? It's a soft case but has beautiful artwork. I just want to hang it up without damaging it too much.

[Anonymous No.674551]

>>674545
- find frame that's deep enough not to crush cd
- glue posts to backboard of frame for cd to sit on
- sit cd on posts, close frame

[Anonymous No.674575]

>>669934
If your screwdriver gets damaged removing one screw, you need better screwdrivers. Seriously, having a decent screwdriver makes a world of difference. Just go with a "consumer" tool brand, like Craftsman (Sears), Husky (Home Depot), or Kobalt (Lowe's).

If you must go cheaper, Stanley's screwdrivers (Walmart and Meijer have them) aren't half bad. But the screwdrivers you find at Harbor Freight or the dollar store are less effective than the side of a dime, albeit probably less expensive.

If you get crazy and decide to invest in pro-grade tools, stay away from Mac Tools. Their screwdrivers especially suck. They are literally the same as certain Harbor Freight screwdrivers. No joke, I knew a guy that worked for them. SnapOn screwdrivers are good, but potentially overpriced for what they are.

[Anonymous No.674577]

>>670103
A breadboard is used for prototyping. As such, it is never to be used in a final project even when space isn't a factor. The same statement holds true to the Arduino, but hobbyists let that slide.

If you're just looking for a way and not necessarily the best way, stick a jumper (wire) into the 5v then grab two jumpers (wires) and solder both to the free end of the 5v jumper. Wrap in electrical tape.

[Anonymous No.674578]

>>670111


>>670428


To add, you can easily get access to the power supply power using the "Vin" on the Arduino Uno.

[Anonymous No.674585]

If I want something that maintains humidity to a certain level, what would I buy?

Sort of like a self-contained humidifier/dehumidifier that adjusts according to its environment.

[Anonymous No.674672]

>>670038
make sure you don't angle the tape measure. so run the tape along the edge or make sure the space from the edge to your tape us relatively the same all the way. and angle can be the difference.

[Anonymous No.674677]

>>674585

something like a AC system?

[Anonymous No.674678]

>>674185
I don't know about PVC... but steel bars are garuanteed

[Anonymous No.674695]

Why are jointers necessary? Shouldn't running a plank through a table saw against the rip fence produce a straight enough edge?

[Ellie No.674731]

>>674695
>Why are jointers necessary? Shouldn't running a plank through a table saw against the rip fence produce a straight enough edge?

Straight enough, Yes. Smooth enough, No. Most blades will still leave some saw marks.
The surface finish from a jointer is much finer, and there aren't the rings you see on a table saw cut. This makes a difference for final-product-visible edge joined boards.

A jointer has a much finer adjustment so you can get the fence exactly perpendicular to the cutter. Again, this makes a difference for edge joined boards. (If it's off you make curves instead of flat surfaces.)

Most importantly, Norm said use one. ^_^ (Plane both sides, then join one edge to make it perpendicular to the finished sides, then rip with the joined edge against the fence to make the other edge parallel. Joint the just-cut edge. Finally trim one end, flip it over, and cut to length.

[Ellie No.674742]

>>674132
>I want to run an ethernet cable from the second floor to the basement.
>Can I just remove the phone jack (which is attached to an inner wall) on the second floor and drop a weight string down?

>No. There will be a 2x4 called the floor plate at the bottom of the wall. Underneath that will be the subflooring.
(Pic related, courtesy of nationalvetcontent.edu.au)

If your existing phone wiring is Cat 5, you can just re-terminate it to Ethernet. If not, you have to run a cable. To do this I use a tool called a Flexi-Bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsuP-Dx_m0w

Much better video, (except for the cheesy porn soundtrack)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsbT8qOuYtY

I've never tried to run through more than one floor though, I'm sorry I can't help with that.

[Ellie No.674743]

>>674742
>Much better video, (except for the cheesy porn soundtrack)
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsbT8qOuYtY [Embed]

Bonus points if you giggle when hearing about learning to handle an 8 foot shaft.

[Anonymous No.674772]

What factors limit a transmitter's data transfer rate? Is it simply the frequency at which it is transmitted?

If it helps any, the kind of transmission I am asking about is ASK.

[Anonymous No.674801]

Simple question:

Are all ultrasonic cleaners made equal?
(I'm not intending heavy use)

e.g. Can I use a $30 jewellery cleaner with the correct fluid for electronics to clean a laptop logic board up a little?

>pic unrelated

[Anonymous No.674814]

>>674677
Yeah!

I'm gonna be traveling with a few instruments and I really want to maintain the right humidity inside of the van.

[Anonymous No.674815]

>>674814
Well, if you're travelling in the van too, then you're the humidifier.

All you need then is a humidity-sensing fan, which you can get from home depot for $30, and an inverter to power it.

[Anonymous No.674817]

Want to get into woodworking.

Specifically I want to make a lathe and then some simple furniture. Like end tables and a bench.

I have access to motors steel and wood for it but before I go for that I was wondering what other wood tools I should get/make and practice with?

Never worked with wood before that wasn't prepared.

I have general tools but nothing specific to woodworking.

[Anonymous No.674818]

>>674815
Awesome! Thank you very much.

[Anonymous No.674823]

How can I make things like frames, chassis and arbitrary forms without large expensive machining or welding tools?

[Anonymous No.674832]

>>674823
I'd recommend welding for frames in most instances, but you can usually send the parts off to be welded if you don't want to do it yourself. If you don't want to send it out for whatever reason, or you don't want it welded, you probably want rivets (pop rivets should do). If it needs to come apart, then you want nyloc bolts or something.

The actual design of the frame depends heavily on what it's for, how many you're making etc. Bending tube steel is probably the place to start though, if it's a relatively small production run.

[Anonymous No.674848]

>>674823

You can't really. But you can get a halfass welding rig for a couple hundred bucks that'll cover you most of the time.

[Anonymous No.674860]

>>674832
>>674848
Thanks for the advice, I'll check into these including cheap welding kits

[Anonymous No.674880]

Is the only difference between an LC and an RLC circuit that the resistor dampens the oscillation and so it winds down over time?

[Anonymous No.675004]

I'm considering going into welding. Could anybody tell me where i can find reliable information about a welding career? I'm not sure if it will be what i expect; will it be hard to find work and make like 50/60k a year? Can you go wrong with welding if you're competent? There are a lot of other things i'm wondering about but i mainly want to know if i will make a good living and will have work. Also what types of welding should I learn for this?

[Anonymous No.675080]

>>675004
>considering going into welding
Are you thinking more along the lines of trying to learn welding yourself as a hobbyist? Or are you considering going to a community college degree program?

>reliable information
A welder? If you are seriously thinking about doing a college program, I would suggest going directly to the instructors and people in that department. At my college, all of the instructors have actual industry experience and most are more than willing to talk and answer most questions you have

>will it be hard to find work
Not really, just depends on what process you want to do

>can you go wrong with welding if you're competent?
Go wrong how? If you can learn to weld and not kill yourself, because there is a lot dangerous shit going on, you'll be fine

>what types of welding should i learn
If you do a degree program you will go over pretty much everything

[Anonymous No.675103]

I need basic woodcrafting tools so I can make a simple heartshaped piece of wood as a gift for someone.
What kind of tools do I really need?

[Anonymous No.675131]

>>675103
saw and sandpaper.

[Anonymous No.675274]

Where can I buy long 1mm screws? like around 1-1.5CM

[Anonymous No.675275]

>>675274
should I just use small nails with some glue?

[Anonymous No.676592]

electronics noob here, I'm trying to build a sonar rangefinder.
I don't understand opamps, they don't seem to do what they're supposed to do
the basic setup is like this:
receiver - amplification - microcontroller
right now I'm just trying around and hooked the output of the amplifikation to the Analog-Digital Converter (which works like it's expected to) and have the microcontroller send the results to my PC.
So when I just connect the receiver to the ADC, I get a reading between 0 and 1, but when I put a non inverting amplifier inbetween with like 16x amplifikation, suddenly I read like 800
I also tried imitating various setups I found on the internet, but nothing seemed to work
I have to admit though that I have no formal education whatsoever concerning electronics

[Anonymous No.676621]

Why is there always 1-2 screws left over after I take something apart and put it back together?

[Anonymous No.676627]

>>676592
probably doing it wrong.
post more info

[Anonymous No.676637]

>>676627
as I said I don't really have a clue
right now I have an ultrasonic receiver which is on one end connected to ground. when I connect the other end to the ADC, I get values <2, which corresponds to a very low voltage. now i connect the receiver to an op-amp like in the pic of my other post, with Rf = 1.6k ohm and Rg=100 ohm, that should amplify the voltage by a factor of (1+Rf/Rg)=17 and connect that output to the ADC.
I expect now the voltage to be a bit higher, but what the ADC reads is about 770, which would be a bit under 4 volts.

I also tried it with an amplifikation of three, which resulted in ADC readings of about 492, so a little less than2.5V.
Then I tried just reading a voltage of 2.5V volts, which worked fine and was read as 512. then I put the amplifier described above (with factor 3) in between and It read 492 again.
VCC is 5V I get from a USB, and as ground I just connect everything to the USB's ground pin. So far everything has worked but maybe that's the problem.
I'm using the TL084CN if that matters (http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00000493.pdf))
also I'm pretty sure the mistake doesn't lie with the ADC.

[Anonymous No.676649]

>>676637
whats your op amp supply voltages? 5 & 0 as well?

[Anonymous No.676655]

>>676649
yes

[Anonymous No.676676]

>>669718
Al right, this is kind of an emergency so if anyonw could help I'd appreciate it.

I felt my house in a hurry but left my keys inside, so I had to bust the door open with my shoulder. After this the lock worked fine, but it was just a little crooked, so I tried to straighten it out with a hammer.

When I finally got it straight, on the last blow something loosened inside the latch. So now, I turn the knob, but it doesn't move the thing that actually gets the door to lock. pic related

Is there any thing I can do to open the lock, reattach whatever I loosened up in there and get the door to close at least temporarily?

[Anonymous No.676678]

>>676676
By the way, I can open and close the door just fine, if I push it. The latch springs just fine if I push it, but it doesn't seem to be attached to the knob anymore.

[Anonymous No.676823]

>>676676

there's a little metal doodad that has a cross-shaped hole. this is what couples the rotating motion of the doorknob to the linear motion of the latch. those tend to break rather than bend. you need a whole new lock.

[Anonymous No.677067]

>>676823
Ok, thanks. Does this mean I'll have to use another key?

[Anonymous No.677102]

>>676592
1. What is output voltage range for your sonar range finder ?
2. What is input voltage range for your ADC ?

Please measure it in volts and not in your ADC reading.

[Anonymous No.677107]

>>673985
did you post it on leddit

[Anonymous No.677114]

>677067
>Does this mean I'll have to use another key?

as you can see from the pic, the part that handles the key and the part that handles the latch are completely separate assemblies. so, you can use the same key, but only if you find an identical lock (or very similar) and replace only the latch assembly. this is gonna be difficult to find if it's an old lock.
an alternative would be to look in the house for a similar door knob, like on a bedroom or toilet, see if the latch parts can be exchanged.

[Anonymous No.677184]

>>676637
Could you make a quick schematic in Circuitlab? Did you try to simulate it, for example in qucs or somewhere else?

[Anonymous No.677190]

I need a sturdy material to set stuff inside of. I was thinking of using plaster of paris, but I'm not sure how sturdy it is. Is there anything else out there like that?

[Anonymous No.677202]

>>677190
What kind of moronic question is that? Wood, plastic, metal isn't good enough for you, so you need to use "plaster of Paris" or what have you? Can you work plaster of Paris? Do you know the material?

Why don't you use rock for instance? Granite, that is sturdy! Come on man, get a grip of yourself.

[Anonymous No.677210]

>>677202

pretty sure the term "set stuff" refers to something like molding, so he needs something that goes from liquid to solid. and plaster of paris is pretty solid: a friend of mine did a mold of himself using it.

[Anonymous No.677211]

this is not him

[Anonymous No.678268]

what is the best way of merging two pieces of foam?

[Anonymous No.678294]

>>678268
>>678268

[Anonymous No.678333]

I'm making my own custom fumo. How difficult would it be to dye the eyes a dark brown? Any good techniques?

[Anonymous No.678355]

>>678333
Perhaps a spray dye? Not sure how well that works though.

[Anonymous No.678357]

>>669718
Can you upload pdf's on /diy/?
got a flamethrower pdf

[Anonymous No.678367]

>>678357
I wish. Sadly, no.

[Anonymous No.678371]

>>678294
- This is a SFW board. No sex toys.

[Anonymous No.678379]

>>678371
you can post nearly anything so long as it isn't naked people

[FatMonty No.678383]

>>678371
>>678379

Still BS shitposting

[Anonymous No.678459]

My mother is a "cosmetologist" (it doesn't translate well from spanish, cosmiatra, think cosmetic dermatology) and she buys devices that are supposed to enhance skin qualities and such.

I think most of them are bullshit, some of them are 'led guns' (~80 red leds, placed in a circle aiming to the same side)..

These are sold for over $300, and I'd like to try and copy some of these tools.

Is there anything in particular I should look after other than just checking the pcb's/ wiring ? None of these seem complicated at all

[Anonymous No.678501]

>>669718
Im going to paint my walls for my room

Is there some sort of brand or paint to watch out for?

[Anonymous No.678531]

What are credit cards made of? I think it is a pretty useful material, but I only have a limited number of old cards. Anywhere I can buy that in larger quantities?

[Anonymous No.678603]

>>669718
What was that program that was supposed to help or something with circuits, I remember a thread about it a while ago, and I didn't think to bookmark it or anything.

[Anonymous No.678617]

>>674860
Chassies/ anything that will be dynamically loaded and has humans in and ouside should not be dicked about. I have been hobby welding for 2years and took a few courses, ad I would not dare weld a such a thing. Save yourself dearh and injury and get it done by a pro

[Anonymous No.678688]

>>678501
avoid paint and primer in one type of paint. And that god awful Behr paint from home depot. They're gonna try and push it on you tell em to get fucked. And touch up them walls with drywall mud if you want a fresh start and want to get of nicks and gouges in the wall if applicable.

[Anonymous No.678692]

>>678531
You can order some for a business, but, why?

[Anonymous No.678703]

>>678688
thanks!

[Anonymous No.678739]

>>678692
I made a few picks so far, but I though it could be used to make small mechanical parts.

[FatMonty No.678797]

>>678739

Most are made of PVC or PVCA

I've seen it used in several small mechanical projects. Just grab a hand full of the free/empty gift cards and laminate them together with non-foaming superglue

[Anonymous No.678805]

>>678688
Not the other guy, but what's wrong with that particular paint? Is Behr universally bad or is it just Home Depot?
Should I just go to Sherwin Williams or something?

[Anonymous No.679015]

>>678805
every experience I've had with it is it always seems "watered down". Took way too many more coats than normal to get decent coverage. And this prolly be picky but I don't like how it handles in a brush when I have to cut lines. You'll get a better quality paint at Sherwin for the same price.

[Anonymous No.679050]

>>679015
Okay. That's what I figured.
I'm gonna be painting my living room soon.
Now I just need to decide on a color.

[Anonymous No.679810]

>>669718
Can I use my Galaxy S3's (broken screen) as a webcam?

[Anonymous No.680090]

So, I have a waterpik showerhead. Of course, it's a hunk of plastic with several settings.

The problem is, the pulse setting has two outlets...on one, the rotor (don't know what it would actually be called, the spinny thing) is stuck, and the pulse effect is ruined. The other one works fine.

What'd be the easiest way to fix this? The head itself (handheld, on a hose) doesn't seem to come apart in an obvious fashion. There might be some rust/scale issues, but I have it soaking in white vinegar right now. suggestions?

[Anonymous No.680092]

>>679810
You might be able to find an app that'll run it as a network appliance, but you still need a somewhat working screen to operate the device.

[Anonymous No.680672]

what do you call the wiring in pic related. It was the rotor from a ps3 controller. Circuit wiring didnt bring up relevant results on google.

[Anonymous No.680681]

>>680672

Positive and negative? It's just a DC motor dude.

[Anonymous No.680701]

>>680092
No you don't, just install a firmware image that includes VNC.

[Anonymous No.680710]

>>680681
yeah just hit it with 5? or 3.3V and you have a vibrator

usually red = pos, black = neg but it wouldn't matter on something like that

[Anonymous No.680795]

Sup /diy/ I'm making a workbench psu with this old (1994) power supply.

The problem is I have a strange thing coming out of the box, it has two cables going in (black and white) coming from the main power (230) and one blue and a brown one to coming out and ending at a 230v output (i guess to connect other devices) and then to the board.

I was wondering if I could solder the white and black wires directly to the psu and getting rid of this part since it just seems a security add on to be attached to the case?¿

Pic related

[Anonymous No.680802]

>>680795
Are you sure that's not the power switch?

Pre-ATX PSUs were controlled by a mechanical switch, not by the motherboard.

[Anonymous No.680804]

>>680795
Nice photo, BTW.

[Anonymous No.680807]

>>680802

It has a metal plate on the other side, nothing made me think it is a switch, also it was encased in a plastic box except for the metal plate.

Here's another pic.

[Anonymous No.680824]

>>680807
Has anything fallen out of it?

[Anonymous No.680832]

>>680824

I guess this is why this threads arent called smart questions threads.

Thank you!

[Anonymous No.680838]

Question, how much would a custom broach cost?
Would it be possible to machine my own one if needed?

[Anonymous No.680869]

>>680838
do you mean brooch?

[Anonymous No.680870]

I want to paint my bike white but dont want a high gloss. Would a clear coat help soften the gloss? I don't want it to be completely matte/flat white.

[Anonymous No.680936]

>>680870
get satin

[Anonymous No.680946]

>>680936

ok thanks

[Anonymous No.680970]

Aesthetics wise, which of these is my best bet, because i have zero imagination.

Shelving in a corner of a room.

(4ftx10in shelving if it matters)

Obviously going to be evenly spaced, but i already spent far longer in MSpaint then i wanted to.

[Anonymous No.680994]

>>680970

i like 2 personally.

[Anonymous No.681002]

>>680970
depends completely on the room and the objects that are in the shelves and around them
but:
2 is a little bit artsy and makes the room "lighter"
3 is just nice and simple and keeps clear lines

also it depends on your personality
i would take 3 but i really like straight lines and simple designs

[Anonymous No.681123]

>>681002
Well, the room is my home office, two desks and a bookshelf already in there on the two walls that the shelves are not.

On the shelves will be: Antique cameras (top shelf probably), Books, Unique odds and ends(ie, manly nicknacs), and living and preserved arachnid and reptile specimens.

[Anonymous No.681127]

So I heard about how you shouldn't bother machining green wood because it will just warp and crack as it dries.

In theory, if I machined a green log segment until I was happy with the result, and then coated the whole thing in epoxy resin, wouldn't that A) lock in the moisture and B) brace the wood and prevent it from shifting?

[Anonymous No.681128]

>>681127
I would think the epoxy would just crack and peel as the log dries and warps.

[Anonymous No.681129]

>>677067
you could have a locksmith rekey your new lock to work with your old key, or you could buy a similar door knob and remove the plug from your current knob and put it in the new one.

[Anonymous No.681130]

>>681128
Poly/lacquer maybe, but resin?

[Anonymous No.681135]

>>681130
See, im thinking whats going to happen is the wood is going to attempt to shrink and your going to get moisture pockets under the resin.

[Anonymous No.681358]

>>681135
As long as the resin provides a nonpermeable seal that won't crack, I'm fine with whatever the wood wants to do within the confines of its shell.

[Anonymous No.681380]

What's a good source for surplus ac motors in 1 - 2 hp range.

[Anonymous No.681440]

Friend's dog did this to the door. How do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.681445]

>>681440
Hollow core door? Ugh. You might be able to find a door kick plate that will cover that mess. Combine it with a door sweep and it should hide it but it will look kind of out of place.

[Anonymous No.681450]

>>681440
> friends dog
Sounds like its his problem to deal with, not yours..

[Anonymous No.681457]

>>681450
It's not my door, I just wanted to help her out.

[Anonymous No.681661]

>>681457
Buy a new door when she moves out. Dog isn't going to stop eating doors. Its got problems. Dont hang out with her many, she's mean to dogs.

[Anonymous No.681708]

okay bike guy here.

do i need anything else to paint my bike? I have all the supplies to strip it beforehand.

[Anonymous No.681719]

>>674817
> Want to get into woodworking.
> I was wondering what other wood tools I should get/make and practice with?

A marking gauge is very simple to make, and incredibly handy. Double-screw clamps (pic related) are also doable. (If you are clever you can make these from wood, nuts, washers, and regular threaded rod. No need for the fancy left and right hand thread stuff joined in the middle.) A wooden maul (for chisels) is easy too.

If you can get some hardened steel, you can make some a marking knife and special purpose planes. I have a round-over plane I made that I use all the time. It's faster than getting the router out.

The most valuable skill you will learn (besides these, our safety glasses)(FTW if you read that in Norm's voice) is sharpening your tools properly.

Best of luck.

[Anonymous No.681915]

How do these displays work and how do I light all the digits to use them as a mini lamp?

I tried with 5 volts and some wires turned red hot. I also added 5v to other pins and some numbers were lit, but only if the wires were hot.

Looks really neat.

[Anonymous No.681916]

>>681915

Another pic, beautiful isn't it?

[Anonymous No.681930]

>>681916
>>681915
Your wires are getting hot, because you're using them in place of a current-limiting resistor.

Spec the right resistor (http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz)), and put it in series with each LED.

[Anonymous No.681936]

>>681930

Those aren't LED's, this display is from the 70's or the 80's, it seems its sealed in vacuum, it has three wires which turn red hot when applied current (as seen in the second picture). When those wires are hot it is possible to lit some of the characters by applying 5v to some pins.

The numbers and characters have a very thin grid in front of them, I guess that is to ionize the air between the numbers and grid, maybe the digits are made of phosphor and they need an electron flow in order to work or something.

I don't know how these displays are called so I can't google it.

[Anonymous No.681942]

they're vacuum fluorescent displays. this YouTube guy shows how to light em up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-c7yJcQi3Fc

[Anonymous No.681943]

>>681942

I already found how they're called by looking at the history of displays at Wikipedia. Thanks for the video though.

[Anonymous No.681948]

>>681942
I didn't expected them too work with such a high voltage, I also don't think they can work with joule thiefs because they are incompatible with the breakdown voltage of the air gap.

[Anonymous No.681974]

> I didn't expected them too work with such a high voltage

i think the dude is just using 120V coz it's easily available without adding a heavy transformer. the VFDs i've worked with were all fine working at voltages of 15-35Vac. some were powered by a special winding on the power transformer, others, which used battery power, used step-up DC-AC modules.

[Anonymous No.682067]

>>681708
crystal clear will make it glossy... unless you changed your mind on the gloss, you should look for satin clear or satin white

masking tape and maybe paper to tape what you don't want paint on

[Anonymous No.682077]

Whats the best way to remove rust off a large metal object? picture related, it's a metal arm rest of a wood bench we have, I'm trying to clean it up.

on another note, is using a garden hose's water to wash off wood you just sanded down to apply a finish a good idea? what would be a better alternative?

[Anonymous No.682095]

>>682077
Electrolysis. Takes time to setup but works very well. Or you could get a bunch of evaporust (which ain't cheap) and use it.

[Anonymous No.682114]

>>682077
air compressor to shoot off dust or a wet rag

[Anonymous No.682230]

>>682067

does it matter if i use a different brand of satin white paint?

[Anonymous No.682342]

Why do LED's keep shining?:

I've made a lamp with a 12v power source from a router and a 12v led module. To switch it all I used a small toggle switch rated 250v 3A, the switch is placed at the high voltage side so the power source doesn't drains energy when the lamp is off.

The problem is, when I turn it off, LED's keep shining, but very slightly, almost unnoticeable if you don't see it in complete darkness, if you touch the wood or the LED's the brightness increases a bit.

I wonder if the 230 v AC are enough to jump the air gap of the switch and use some energy, maybe the cable induces some current to the transformer.

This is quite strange, is this normal?

Pic related is my setup.

[Anonymous No.682369]

>>682342

what you're saying is impossible. either you are having mental issues, or you're looking at the phosphorescent afterglow when you turn off the lights. wait 3 minutes after you turn off the lights, then see if it's still glowing. if so, you probably have a brain tumor.

[Anonymous No.682378]

>>682369
Or the air gap in the switch is small enough the 230 is getting through, or one of those big electrolytics is taking forever to discharge and touching the wood is raising the potential from the LED to ground, or the LED lens is a little phosophorescent and gets a luminous charge from being on and is just glowing in the dark.

It's not simple enough to say it's impossible.

[Anonymous No.682379]

>>682369
>when something I don't understand happens, it must be imaginary

[Anonymous No.682405]

>>682369

Shun the non believers!

I made a video about it, you could say they are the capacitors but at the video when I unplug it, the light disappears instantly, and it comes back after I plug it in, even thought I didn't press the switch.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDwKw8U-Gjo&list=UUl_3hwkrHdzMXYnA3TutcZg

The blinking is caused by the camera, but to the naked eye appears as a constant light.

[Anonymous No.682407]

>>682405
Then yeah, you're getting a little sparking in the switch. If you want it to stop, wrap the lugs in shrink tube or a thick coat of electrical tape, and bend them away from each other a little now. Looking at your switch, you've got some really bulky solder joints that are pretty close together.

[Anonymous No.682411]

>>682407

I fear the connections that are too close are the ones inside the switch, but I'll check if the shrink tube does the job, If not I'll use a bigger switch.

[Anonymous No.682413]

>>682342

Did you break the hot wire or the neutral? If you're breaking the neutral, their might just barely be enough capacitance in the thing to light the LEDs very faintly. If you actually are breaking the live power wire, I have no idea WTF it's doin'.

[Anonymous No.682417]

>>682413

I don't understand the question, there are two markings at the board, an L and an N (Live and Neutral I guess), the one that is broken (switched) is the live (blue color (colors might be wrong)), the neutral is connected freely to the hole with the N mark.

[Anonymous No.682418]

>>682413
He demonstrated that when the gadget is totally unplugged it doesn't glow, so it's not the caps. It glows after being plugged in before it gets turned on too.

[Anonymous No.682421]

>>682417
What he is saying is there are 2 wires coming to and from your lamp.
one of these is a hot lead where the power is coming into your lamp, and is trying to find its way to neutral or ground.
If you broke the neutral line with your switch the power is still going into your circuit trying to find its way. By touching the lamp you are making a very faint connection to ground allowing more power to flow through it.

[Anonymous No.682422]

>>682417
Live is traditionally brown; neutral blue.

[Anonymous No.682424]

>>682421

I'm using a non grounded plug, it can be connected both ways.

I'm missing something?

[Anonymous No.682426]

>>682424

Important update:

I've tried to connect the plug both ways, one way the leds were clearly slightly lighted, but when I reversed the plug there was practically no light, it was a very slight even in total darkness.

[Anonymous No.682428]

>>682418
>>682413
You obviously don't understand the question. No-one's talking about residual charge in capacitors.

Neutral is (nominally) 0v
Live swings between +110v and -110v.

The live and neutral connectors are right next to each other in the cable, meaning they form a transmission line, effectively a pair of resistors bridged by a capacitor. This capacitor is, like a battery's internal resistance, not real, but a model of the more complicated process that's actually happening.

Because the live's AC, and capacitors pass AC, cutting the neutral does not completely inhibit current flow to capacitative loads. The current, essentially, flows down the live, is held by the capacitance of the load, comes out back down the neutral, and then passes back to the live (now at a different potential) through the lead acting as a transformer.

This is one of the many reasons we switch the live pole, not the neutral one.

[Anonymous No.682451]

>>682428

Today I've learnt a new thing.

Thank you for the explanation, now it's everything more clear and I can explain this >>682426.

I'll just plug it the right way so the LED's don't stay lit (or at least not too much)

Or is there another way of fixing this?

[Anonymous No.682455]

>>682428

>I don't understand the question
>I gave a less detailed, but identical explanation

Yeah, but nah, fuck you.

[Anonymous No.682531]

Any amateur radio people here? Is it possible for a civilian to obtain a license to use Part 90 equipment?

Apparently even though this thing emits 24.161GHz K-band and I would normally be permitted to operate it with a simple technician license since it's part 90 certified I need an additional license but I was told it's pretty much only available to public safety officials. I'm starting to feel like I have an expensive paperweight on my hands.

[Anonymous No.682543]

>>682531
>
The Radio Regulations of the International Telecommunication Union allow amateur radio and amateur satellite operations in the frequency range 24.000 GHz to 24.250 GHz, which is known as the 1.2-centimeter band. It is also referred to as the K band by AMSAT.

[Anonymous No.682544]

>>682428
>Live swings between +110v and -110v.
No. Peaks are sqrt(2) * RMS voltage for a sine wave.

[Anonymous No.682554]

>>682543
Yeah I saw that but apparently there are additional restrictions when it comes to running radar. I called the FCC today and asked about the license I'd need to have to run radar and was told it is ILLEGAL to run without a part 90 license. I have no doubts I could obtain an amateur radio license but I wonder about the likelihood of obtaining a part 90 license for civilian use, I was told it was technically possible but very unlikely I'd be approved.

I figured I'd see if anyone else had any experience with this.

[Anonymous No.682581]

>>682554
You can run it under part 15 rules without a license.

[Anonymous No.682584]

>>682531
Just use it... the fcc at most if they found you would tell you to stop.

[Anonymous No.682598]

>>682584
Enjoy your nut cancer!

>sorry, had to say it

[Anonymous No.682632]

>>682554
I'd bet that comms are okay but radar is not. Blame the police, etc.

[Anonymous No.682687]

Hi /diy/ this compressed air cylinder is from a running machine, it helps to lift the running band to use less space.

I dissassembled the whole thing to be able to carry it up the stars but now I don't think I can compress it again since I've pushed with all my force and I havent been able to move it a single milimeter?

Is there a way to compress this thing to be able to screw it in place again? Any tips or tricks?

[Anonymous No.682697]

Woodworker here.
I have a $100 gift card for Amazon and it's fucking burning a hole in my pocket. The fuck do I buy? Willing to put forth no more than $100 of my own money, and that's only if I really want it.

[Anonymous No.682706]

>>682697
Buy shit for your wife or gf.
Failing that, a tool you dont own?

[Anonymous No.682717]

>>682697
Combination blades for circular/table saws, router bits, forstner bits or a cheap dado blade. If it were me.

[Anonymous No.682726]

Does anything know anything about IR repeaters? My cat just chewed through one. Does it matter particularly if I get the exact same one? The one I am looking at is this one:

http://www.hdtvhookup.com/miduheirinst.html

pic related is the old one.

[Anonymous No.682754]

>>682726
its literally just an IR led on the end of a 3.5mm plug
Look around for an old remote and rip the LED out of it and find an old pair of shitty headphones

[Anonymous No.682761]

>>682687

Solved, after mounting it I realized if it was at the upright position it could be inserted without compressing it.

[Anonymous No.683121]

I'm thinking of putting together a simple four piece computer desk made of wood. I'm not much of a wood builder and prefer to stick to my firearms and other mechanical devices. It's safe to say that I'm a complete noob at this and would like some advice. Perhaps some obvious do's and don'ts. What kind of wood is best and if I should use glue in addition to screws. And if there is any sort of, preferred grade screws.
Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.683145]

I have 20*20 room
i need ideas

[Anonymous No.683149]

>>682754
Why not just repair the cord.

[Anonymous No.683196]

>>671170
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nixie-tubes-Magic-eye-tubes-power-supply-module-kit-/261169220982?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccee60d76

[Anonymous No.683202]

Semi-serious question: is WD40 hated on this board? Or is it people using it wrong?

[Anonymous No.683206]

>>683202
people just use it wrong.
it's a penetrating lubricant and water displacer. marketting sells it as an all purpose lubricant which it definitely isnt. people still use it wrong though and it causes things to clog with filth instead of rust.

[Anonymous No.683294]

I savaged this sony amplifier and I've started cleaning the dust and that brown thing that stichs to the buttons. I'm also fixing some things like the speakers wire holder which is broken.

I wondered if the capacitors are still ok, this thing is old as fuck, maybe 10 years or so. The sound has some fuzzyness at the background sometimes and I wonder if it's normal

Also I wondered if there's a general procedure when savaging and reaconditioning this things.

[Anonymous No.683295]

>>683294

Another pic of it. (down)

[Anonymous No.683301]

Trying to build PC. Don't know a lot about computers.

ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard

is this a good motherboard?

[Anonymous No.683303]

>>683301

You should ask /g/

[Anonymous No.683305]

>>683202
Hated by some on here. I personally don't hate it.

It's good for cleaning gunk, but so is kerosene or methanol (methyl hydrate)
It's good for cleaning up (removing water from) tools that have been underwater or in the rain. I've heard that oil platform divers use gallons of this shit to get rid of the water from submersed chains. It leaves a thin, minimally protective film on metal parts.
Grease or Fluid Film is better at preventing rust.
It helps stop squeaky hinges in a pinch, but it won't be effective as actual light oil or something heavier like chain wax.
I've used it to clean off and lube studs before tightening up the nuts with a lug wrench.

But a general purpose lubricant it's quite thin and weak. And don't use it inside a lock!

[Anonymous No.683306]

>>683303

they'll think I'm retarded

[Anonymous No.683323]

>>683306
They think that of everybody

[Anonymous No.683341]

>>683306

Theres usually one or two stupid questions threads.

Bump for this.>>683294

[Anonymous No.683349]

>>683301
ASrock is cheap garbage, they have flimsy boards that every corner is cut. Yes they have every feature of higher end boards for cheap, but good value in the short run is not the best

Spend the extra 30$ on something else

My z87 ASRock was ok, but it only lasted 6 months before shitting out. Their reviews tell the real truth about their quality control

[Anonymous No.683388]

I want to use crayola air dry clay to make a low quality helmet. What kind of material should I use for a base head? Id like it to be life size and something I can cheaply order online. Also, could someone recommend the proper board to ask this on if this is not the one?

[Anonymous No.683409]

>>683388
Like a head to use for molding the helmet? You can buy styrofoam head models online: search for "wig forms".

[Anonymous No.683414]

>>683409
Do you know if that kind of clay would stick well to a styrofoam head?

[Anonymous No.683416]

>>683294
Check for bulging caps. If its bulging is shot and will need to be replaced. Clean the contacts for everything, especially if its from a smokers home. Often times just a little bit of dirt, smoke or oxidation can fuck up your connections and make it sound like ass.

>this thing is old as fuck, maybe 10 years or so.
Oh you summer child. Get me a model number and I can narrow it down for you but it looks older than that. 80's or early 90s.

[Anonymous No.683467]

>>683416
And be careful not to drop the PCB. I was replacing a couple of caps in my TV when I dropped the PCB and it snapped in half.

[Anonymous No.683484]

>>682421
I thought that both the flat slats were two different phases, but that they were both hot

[Anonymous No.683508]

>>683416

Caps seem to be fine, although I'm worried their capacitance has changed, amongst all the electronic components, capacitors are the ones that have one of the shortest lifetime.

>80's or early 90's

From all the things I picked up, the amplifier and a sony radio reciever seemed the newest ones.

>>683467 Thanks, I'll handle it with care.

[Anonymous No.683526]

copied from /g/


Just discovered nfc/bluetooth. What should I do with it?

Was thinking of blueproximity for starters, then maybe a door lock. Anything else mildly entertaining?

[Anonymous No.683551]

>>682455

I meant >>682418 didn't understand the question. I was just explainin' your explanation to him, because it looked like he needed help.

[Sargbot !!aTG+CKv36AY No.683771]

Speaking of stupid questions, I've got one for you /diy/. Are any of you interested in AI vs AI football (soccer)?

I'm the current manager of /diy/ and play in a series of cups between 4chan boards, and I'm looking to get some input from the board. I was planning on doing this closer to when the team plays next (Winter) but I felt I should test the waters earlier. You can check the team here: http://implyingrigged(dot)info/wiki//diy/

As of now the roster was created by myself and another person involved with the cup who visits the board, and I would love to hear any suggestions/support/hate from other i/diy/ots. Okay, preferably not hate but if you want no involvement in this thing I understand (I have heard the cup doesn't have the best rep outside of our general).

[Anonymous No.683796]

>>682531
If you're willing to modify it so that it identifies itself (as ALL ham transmissions must be identified), you can use that radar, once you got your tech license of course:

http://forums.qrz.com/archive/index.php/t-21166.html

I'd also think there's got to be SOME way you could get yourself involved in one of those numerous "allowed groups" (offer your services to the local minor-league baseball team?), but then I'd wonder if it would be legal for you to use it at other times. But in any case, as the link says, hams do use these things sometimes, or at least did; obviously the link is ten years old and technology changes. But if there's anyone that's going to take an outdated piece of equipment and get it back on the air, it's a ham.

[Anonymous No.684614]

Last night the power went out in half of my house. Checked the circuit box but no breakers were tripped, switched them all off and back on anyway; accomplished nothing and went to sleep.

Today the whole house has power but only lights, ceiling fans and other minor appliances work, the ac, stove, fridge, water heater, etc don't.

Checked the voltage on the outlet I had my fridge connected to, I got 67V. So now I have it connected to a different outlet (made sure I was getting 120V from this one) with an extension cord.

I also noticed the electricity meter's display is off.

What is going on?

[Anonymous No.684628]

>>684614

something similar happened to me. turned out to be one of the 100A fuses in the switchbox next to the meter was making bad contact. I switched the thing off and rotated the fuse a few times to get better contact. fixed it.

[Anonymous No.684640]

>>684628
Uhm, the only boxes I see around the meter are phone boxes. I called my energy company and they are going to do an inspection tomorrow. Hopefully the problem is on their end.

[Anonymous No.684652]

around here they tend to look like the box on the right. they usually go before the meter.

if you have a breaker box, then you can open it and check that the 2 phases (red and black) produce 240V between them, and 120V between each phase and neutral (white). it's possible the electric company will consider that as the demarcation point, to determine whether you pay or not for the visit.

[Anonymous No.684663]

>>684652
Can't remove the panel's screws, I don't know if it's because of the paint or what. But checked the ac unit, it has it's own little breaker on the side, and I got 124V each but together I get 0V.

[Anonymous No.684679]

>>684614
One leg of your mains is fucky. You need to check it at your meter to know if it's your problem or the electric company's.

[Anonymous No.684935]

>>684679
Yep, it was on their end; They fixed it overnight. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.685003]

I'm trying to get into brewing root beer because it's cheaper than brewing beer and when I fuck things up I won't feel as bad. I'm looking at getting some root beer extract to make it out of but I'm not sure what kind of/how much yeast I need. The website says I should use champagne yeast but I'm worried that using that would cause alcohol formation in my soda. Any information or tips on the subject is appreciated

[Anonymous No.685326]

>>684614
>Today the whole house has power but only lights, ceiling fans and other minor appliances work, the ac, stove, fridge, water heater, etc don't.

There was a thread about this last week or the week before. Something along the lines of "Muh AC and Dryer stopped working" and I got 17 different kinds of shit for suggesting that there might be a problem with one leg of the AC coming in the house. It's nice to be vindicated on that. Thanks mate.

[Anonymous No.685561]

Any good garden designers here? I have a dam that has been overgrown and want to fix it up but i can't get any fish in it because the cats will just eat them and i don't want to have to move them inside every time winter comes. So is there any good way to add life to it without fish. Like putting in lights in the water or adding a fountain. Sorry for the shit pic.

[Anonymous No.685582]

>>685561
yes, a fountain or a water fall will airate the water making it less algeaish. Get plants. Other than that IDK

[Anonymous No.685608]

>>672806
or if you hit the main Sprint fiber optic line running through NC on the East Coast, at a coiled nest no less, while digging a trench with a backhoe, they tend to get slightly pissy. Oh, and the regular guys ain't happy about having to patch the 2 100 pair phone cables and the 50 pair phone cable that got cut also.

[Anonymous No.685609]

>>672997
fuse box, implies older home, with the old style wires with the cloth insulation that squirrels and mice love to munch on.

[Anonymous No.685610]

>>674585
in a non-conditioned space or in a conditioned space?
they make comfort air systems that attached to forced air systems that use a humidistat to maintain the set point, see them often on wine cellars and instore humidors at cigar places.

[Anonymous No.685611]

>>674742
use about a 2' piece of the ball chain (like on old style pull lamp) attached to mason twine. The chain will help find the hole and slither down into it due to weight, where string or a metal weight will not.

[Anonymous No.685735]

hi /diy/,
I have these type of bolts with nuts.
the nuts seem to have a stop. I don't know why.
I need to tighten them more then the range the stop on the nut lets me. why are there stops on these nuts? is there a way to remove that piece instead of buying different nuts? or will that plastic piece come out if I force tight it?

I don't know why I was sent these type of nuts if I need to tighten them more then they let me.

anyone around tonight?

[Anonymous No.685738]

>>685735

Those aren't stops. Those are "nylock" nuts. Those rings are to help prevent them from coming undone on their own from vibration.

They can't prevent you from tightening anything, because they don't bear any of the load. If things aren' fitting right, you're probably doing something wrong or have the wrong bolts or something.

[Anonymous No.685740]

>>685738
ok.
I did not know the name of this nut.
I know what I have to do now.
much obliged.

[Anonymous No.685741]

>>685735
you probably will struggle to tighten by hand.
they will stop you from tightening if you are a wimp i suppose.
use a spanner and some elbow grease

[Anonymous No.685793]

If I build a shelter using chain link fence, a tarp over that, and cardboard boxes layered on the inside, would it get too hot in the summer or too cold in the winter? I'll have about 150 sq. Ft. Of floorspace. If not I might do a mudhut with chain link fence as the base and wood as the frame. In Missouri temperatures

[Anonymous No.686301]

I'm going to go to Home Depot when they open in a few hours and buy some wood and make a new desk.

I plan to just buy planks and nail them together for the actual desk, my question is what should I use for the legs?

[Anonymous No.686314]

>>685561
Make a deeper pond. The fish can stay for winter, and will have space to escape from cats.

>>682077
I did mine with a steal cleaning wool and salt. The acid helps getting the rust off. Just make sure you clean the salt completely with water, rub it dry, then coat in a layer of oil. Will do well. I clean all my cast iron skillets this way.

[Anonymous No.686786]

Can someone spoonfeed me which new hard drive to buy for mah ipod video 5.5g 80gb.
I dun wana accidentally buy one that isn't compatible or something.

[Anonymous No.686891]

>>686786
Would this work?
>http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Perpendicular-Magnetic-Recording-Mk8009ga/dp/B0010HVWJA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF
I have no idea what I'm doing

[Anonymous No.686910]

>>686786
You should probably use a ZIF SSD, or a $5 zif-to-CF adapter, a $5 CF-to-2x-MicroSD adapter, and a pair of MicroSD cards.

The iPod does not appear to have a capacity limit, but the cheaper ones only have 32MB, which limits the number of songs you can have, and therefore the maximum capacity.

Using an SSD would mean a much longer battery life, and no spin-up delay or possibility of shock damage.

[Anonymous No.686912]

Anyone got a quick and dirty guide (preferably in .jpg format) on how to make a webm?

[Anonymous No.687078]

>>686910
>$5 zif-to-CF adapter, a $5 CF-to-2x-MicroSD adapter,
how badly would this affect speed?
I have limited budget of <100 so a SSD is out
maybe someday...

[Anonymous No.687080]

>>686910
>>687078
How's this
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YZGCIU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8
>www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z8LPK0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8
I'm a bit worried about all this actually fitting in the ipod
Also I'm thinking about buying a new battery as well since I might as well do it while I'm opening the damn thing
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4Q8JM/
it comes with the little plastic openers

[Anonymous No.687084]

>>686301
Laminate some wood together with wood glue for the legs.

[Anonymous No.687090]

>>687078
It's an MP3 player. I don't think it's possible to affect the speed.

[Anonymous No.687092]

>>687080
Might be more reliable, albeit less fast, than the $5 MicroSD RAID adapters. (the ZIF/CF adapters are purely passive). Reliable is, I guess, important when the thing's so difficult to open.

An interesting thing you could do with a full-size SD adapter is put an Eye-Fi in it and sync it wirelessly.

[Anonymous No.687141]

I bought this switch and realized that there is no lock in it. Is there an easy way to lock it in one position?

[Anonymous No.687146]

>>687141
Glue.

[Anonymous No.687154]

Okay /diy/ I'm supposed to be sanding a door to stain and poly it later. Problem is the orbital sander isn't working well on the door and its sanding unevenly.

What do? Did I over sand? Under sand? Will it look fine with stain and poly?

[Anonymous No.687163]

>>687154
looks like shit mate

[Anonymous No.687168]

>>687154
Step one: Learn how to use an orbital sander correctly (YouTube).
Step two: Make sure your orbital sander is in good working order.
Step three: Make sure you are using the correct grit of sandpaper for the task.

[Anonymous No.687179]

>>687163
Yep, that's why are I'm here.

>>687168
Checked YouTube to be sure I was sanding correctly and I was although I may have sanded too hard in placed the kids scratched funny words like "vagina" and "pen15".

I'm convinced that side of the door is warped. It sounds like a veneer on a hollow frane. The back side sanded fine, nice and evenly.

Boss didn't end up caring either way, its just an elementary school washroom but I don't like things I do to look like shit. Only ever did painting here before

[Anonymous No.687221]

>>687092
>An interesting thing you could do with a full-size SD adapter is put an Eye-Fi in it and sync it wirelessly.
eh maybe some other day. Didn't even notice it was an SD adapter and not a microSD one
>>687090
well a dying hard drive slows it a bit in a sense

Aright can someone review these items and tell they're the right ones?
>amazon.com/gp/product/B004FD1D2C
>amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4Q8JM
>amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZ2O7CE
>amazon.com/gp/product/B008F1BHPS
I think that's all I'll need

[Anonymous No.687235]

Any way to test what current a power supply can manage?
Pic semi-related, they really do mean 0.25W and not 20W on those resistors. Didn't last half a second before the smoke was gone.

[Anonymous No.687236]

>>687235
>they really do mean 0.25W and not 20W on those resistors.

kek

[Anonymous No.687243]

I need to sharpen knives. Some are still sharp some are not but kone are ruined. Mainly for outdoor activities. I need the cheapest alternative and I need to ship to Sweden (really small selection). I have never done this before but you tube can probably help on HOW to do it.

[Anonymous No.687252]

>>687235
use bigger resistors
use more resistors
use shorter measurement time
cool them better
some combination of the above
use a big transistor on a heatsink instead of resistors

[Anonymous No.687416]

>>687243
You could sharpen them on a belt sander. This is probably the fastest and easiest way of sharpening a lot of knives.

[Anonymous No.687424]

hi /diy/,
do you know a different name for pic related?
I found one on ebay for 8.95 and maybe with a different name I can find the same one cheaper.
I used the term "bicycle tire pump replacement hose for mini pump" to find this one.

[Anonymous No.687435]

>>687243
>I need to sharpen knives.
Admitting you have a problem is the first step.

>Some are still sharp some are not but none are ruined.
>I have never done this before but you tube can probably help on HOW to do it.
Start with the worst knife in the bunch. If you have one that has some rust on it, even better. It's not rocket science, but it will bug you in 6 months if you leave a bunch of random scratches on your EDC knife.

>I need the cheapest alternative and I need to ship to Sweden (really small selection).
The cheapest option is to find a river or creek with a stony bottom and look for a palm size stone with a smooth face. If it will scratch the knife then it will sharpen it. I have a piece of Quartzy Granite I picked up on vacation in Alaska when I was 10. That's what I learned to sharpen on. Cost is 0.

For curved cutting tools, primarily carving and lathe chisels, I sharpen them on a grinder with a couple of large buffing wheels and buffing compound. They get sharp as (expletive) and look lovely when you bleed on them.

For everything else I have a Lansky sharpening system, and 80% of the time I use the "dogbone" rod out of it.
http://www.lansky.com/index.php/products/mini-dog-bone/ If I had my druthers, I would get one of those about 8" long. It's short, and I know that I will eventually get distracted and cut the bejeezus out of myself with it.

[Anonymous No.687528]

>>687141

What are the threaded neck and nut for?

[Anonymous No.687570]

Is it possible to debug arduino code on atmel studio without using the arduino hardware?

[Anonymous No.688133]

What's the absolute cheapest way to build a small outdoor workspace /shed building-type thing that's capable of staying warm enough to keep a person's hands from going numb in the winter?

[Anonymous No.688137]

What's the absolute cheapest way to build a small outdoor workspace building/shed-type thing that's capable of staying warm enough to keep a person's hands from going numb in the winter?

[Anonymous No.688350]

>>688137
Igloo

[Anonymous No.688374]

So, I've got these lounge pants someone bought for me. Sleep pants, pajama pants, whatever you want to call them. They've got some stretch to them, poly/cotton of course.

The legs are a little long. How would I go about making them a little shorter without making them look like shit? When I've cut off old pairs, the edge had a tendency to roll.

[Anonymous No.688483]

>>688350
I was hoping for something with less ephemeral materials.

[Anonymous No.688495]

Hey guys...

In the market for a house at the moment.

A lot of houses in the area we are looking are of the age that they have this stupid shit on the walls.

I'm assuming it's to cover the seams between the plasterboard/drywall?

Can it be pried off and then just plastered over and repainted or is it a case of having to redo the entire wall with fresh plasterboard?