bathroom renovation

[Anonymous No.507046]

hey /diy/

just wanted to your opinion on my first bathroom renovation.
also wanna make this topic to discuss house renovations if anyone has questions or ideas (stil have to do the rest of the house) let me know.

first pic is how it looked like when i bought the house.2 months ago

[Anonymous No.507048]

>>507046
destroyed half the walls and made the bathroom bigger

[Anonymous No.507050]

>>507048
and this is how it looks now.
stil have to make a shower door but the rest is basically done.

how do you think it looks? i know i fucked up on the drain part a little but i still like it

[Anonymous No.507051]

I'm about to start doing my bathroom come cooler weather. Anyone got experience with those plug and play electric floor heater mats?

[Anonymous No.507052]

>>507050

And great job OP, looks good, what kind of door are you looking to put on there? A shudder style or glass?

[Anonymous No.507054]

>>507052
has to be folding door, glass wil be too expensive i think can't find them for less than 500 euro. so i'm looking for a plastic folding door. a normal turning door wouldn't fit. im just showering without the shower door now. the normal main door is in already. but i can't turn on the massage jets on the shower thing now or the water gets everywhere.

[Anonymous No.507055]

>>507051
i actually looked into floor heating for my bathroom since my gf is korean and used to floor heating. sadly i didn't have enough square meters of floor for floorheating to be viable so i had to install normal central heating. you can buy those electric mats nowadays if you have enough m2 in your bathroom its a viable option but not easy to install. i'm always afraid of water and electricity like that. the water central heating version of floorheating is alot harder to install. the electric ones is simply put on before you put down the ground tiles.

[Zombi No.507056]

We sell and install a lot of Warm Tiles floor heat. We use the cable systems instead of mats. You screw or tape down track and lace the cable into. This way you can adjust your spacing and layout at will to accommodate your size and heating needs. You still need to wire it into the panel though. Once the cable is down we pour about 3/8" of self leveling compound over it and are ready for tile or membrane by the next day.

[Anonymous No.507062]

>>507055

That's what I read into about them. I'm not overly concerned with the water aspect, mostly because between me and my dad there's enough experience there. Doing a water centric system would be nice but intricate, and code still doesn't allow PVC by me so running copper forever. (The water heater is on the complete opposite side of the house)

Personally with your door, that's what I figured I'd say some type of folder, shudder styled like the pic, would look excellent.

Not to mention you could fab it up yourself if you found shudders at a yard sale, or something of the sort with some hinges and paint/sealer.

[Anonymous No.507075]

>>507054
>can't find them for less than 500 euro

Really? Here in the states you can easily find a prefab framed sliding glass door for $300 (~225€), probably less for yours since the $300 is for a 70" (1.7m) tall and you could go smaller with your tub. It may just be a difference in price but I'd check first to see if you can find one in your area since they're significantly cheaper than either frameless or other custom shower doors.

Basically they're sold as kits with different heights (usually in 5"/13cm increments) with width ranges. They'll have a left and right frame and a top rail and bottom rail, the shower doors themselves can come framed or unframed, generally unframed is cheaper and looks cleaner anyway. You install the side frames with a couple of screws (you have to drill through the tile--make sure to seal the holes with silicone and take your time driling) and then cut the bottom and top to length, place them and hold in place with silicone, seal the edges of everything with silicone and then hang your doors on the track and you're done.

If you have a second hand store like habitat for humanity near you (or someone reading wants a cheap shower door) you can always find a used shower door; just get two doors that are the same height (same width is better but not required), and then purchase a new frame set and clamps for under $80. The glass will clean to new and the frame itself will be new, getting you a new shower door for ~$100.

[Anonymous No.507076]

>>507075
sliding won't fit. it has to be foldable.
thats the problem

[Anonymous No.507080]

>>507076
>sliding won't fit. it has to be foldable.

I don't understand how that could be, what dimension is the issue?

[Anonymous No.507101]

>>507080

I see now, you have a tub and a shower and the end you have to enclose has two different floor heights. Nvm.

[Anonymous No.507406]

>>507101
exactly, i made everything in a really small space. the tub is built into the wall. it's only like 80 or 90 cm nowhere to slide to. first i figured i would just put the shower into the bath area but it might be usefull to be able to shower when someone else is using the bath so i just put a shower column next to it.

[Anonymous No.507415]

So my master bath has a plumbing problem but i am totally stumped. If I turn the water on from either valve, it sprays from all 3 wall penetrations, but mostly the center one which diverts water to tub or shower). I dont want to bust into the wall only to find out its a simple job. Ive already replaced the o rings and such. Water doesnt leak when valves are shut however, which is what makes it so puzzling

[Anonymous No.507444]

>>507415
can you take a picture when its leaking? or draw what you mean? hard to imagine exactly what you are talking about with just an explanation

[Anonymous No.507464]

>>507050

work looks good
i wouldnt choose such tiles, it looks too "public pool" for me
but good job, i never saw such a mixed tub/shower

[Anonymous No.507482]

>>507046
I've always wondered: When renovating bathrooms and such, where do people do their shit in the meantime?

[Zombi No.507520]

Didn't you pressure test the plumbing before installing the finished surface? What kind of connections did you use? Copper, sharkgrips, pex, etc.? Copper, properly soldered should not develop leaks easily. Push on or crimp on fitting have to be done perfectly to seal though. I can tell for sure in the photo, but it looks like you have a hold and cold knob, not a single lever valve. That means it could be leaking anywhere on the other side of those two valves. If you have a solid body assembly then it is likely either at the part that comes out to the shower head or the hand shower.

[Zombi No.507521]

Didn't you pressure test the plumbing before installing the finished surface? What kind of connections did you use? Copper, sharkgrips, pex, etc.? Copper, properly soldered should not develop leaks easily. Push on or crimp on fittings have to be done perfectly to seal though. I can't tell for sure in the photo, but it looks like you have a hot and cold knob, not a single lever valve. That means it could be leaking anywhere on the other side of those two valves. If you have a solid body assembly then it is likely either at the part that comes out to the shower head or the hand shower.

[Anonymous No.507551]

>>507521
the person with the plumbing problem isn't op. so those pics don't apply to the person asking the q