Flooring

[Anonymous No.505542]

Laying out my own floor. I was wondering how I would go about my fireplace. I want to replace the tiles but I'm unsure as to how I would lay the floor and separate the tiles from the floor. What transition should I use and should I set the tiles on top of the floor or should I lay the tiles on top of something else?

[Anonymous No.505545]

I'm accustom to brick fireplaces, and around here that usually means there is a step up.

[Zombi No.505548]

What is the rest of the floor going to be? Is this ceramic tile on the hearth? Never set tile directly to a wooden substrate without an uncoupling membrane. I use a lot of Schluter Ditra. Many flooring stores will carry it as will Lowes and Home Depot. (assuming you are in the US) You thinset the ditra to the subfloor with a Modified thinset like Mapei Ultraflex 2. Then set your tile on top of it with an Unmodified thinset like Mapei Kerabond. Schluter also makes various metal transition strips that install by thinsetting them into place under the edge of the tile. They make this square ones to but carpet to or various other ones to reduce directly to the floor and they come in many finishes. If you are doing something like wood, then a wooden T-mold or reducer would likely work better.

[Anonymous No.505555]

>>505548
It looks like they placed the tile on the wood when they made the house based on my picture. Anyway, to do it the way you mentioned I put the ditra onto the subfloor with a modified thinset, then I just lay the tile on top of the ditra with Kerabond? I'm concerned about the height not aligning with the flooring. I don't want it to be too low or too high.

[Anonymous No.505557]

Here is the height of my floor compared to the present tiles. I plan on using new tiles and I'm wondering how to raise these up to match the floor. Would I put another level of ditra?

[Anonymous No.505600]

>>505557

You try to measure it out to as close to what you want as you can...unfortunately...it's not an exact science. There may be a dip in the sub floor that you miss...and then the wood is now proud of the hearth...

Best thing I can think of...pull the tile...build a small form...pour self leveling concrete (mortar)...

See where that gets you, with tile and estimated mortar next to your new flooring.

Tile will settle into the fresh mortar...so keep that in mind at all times...I like to keep my mortar somewhat dryer than recommended...it settles less...and I can anticipate my overall finish thickness somewhat better...(anticipate...calculate...it's a bit of a give and take...but I'm down to less than 1/16" ((1.2mm)) )

I personally would strip the ceramic...lay the wood...and build up from there...

But I'm sure there are many opinions on this...from experts no less...who do this day in and day out...five days a week...

Well...Probably not five days a week...probably closer to 'I saw a guy last year do it like....'

So...have at it buddy...

[Zombi No.505783]

Just use Ditra XL instead of normal Ditra. It's taller and specifically designed to help level the tile out closer to the height of 3/4" hardwood flooring. By the time you factor in two layers of thinset, the Ditra and a standard 3/8" tile you should be close to the hardwood level. Speaking of hardwood, make sure you place something like roofing felt or proper hardwood underlayement to prevent it from squeaking when the wooden surfaces rub together. Rosin paper is also used a lot but not recommended.

[Anonymous No.505791]

>>505600
Oh gosh, those ellipses.

Do you not know how to use a full stop?
Does your period key burst-fire?
Do you want that depressed and uncertain tone?

Am I a pedantic asshole?