/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.425540]

Hey /diy/ I have a problem and I don't know where to post it... I posted it on /adv/ but I think I should try here
A pipe of my kitchen sink is leaking

The smell is unbearable also... Do you know what I can do ?

[Anonymous No.425559]

Your shit's all retarded. All of that drainage plumbing needs to be replaced.

[Anonymous No.425564]

Same thing happened at my work. We took the pipes apart and they were filled with the most disgusting shit I have ever smelt dues to years of just general use. Get a plumber to do it so you don't have to deal with the smell. You'll have to replace the pipes or clean them out thoroughly (just replace them though, PVC pipes are cheap).

Also it's too late to start now, but when you get new pipes it's worth putting some drain cleaner through them every now and then to stop this happening again.

[Anonymous No.425566]

Shit, what jackleg did that..

Well, you really do need to redo most, if not all, of that plumbing. However, is it actually leaking or just smelling disgusting?

The uncapped piping all of that needs to be removed. It looks like maybe it was meant for dishwasher drainage at one time? Maybe.

it needs to be removed with a solid piece PVC from the wall, at the very least you need to cap that motherfucker.

[Anonymous No.425569]

[Anonymous No.425603]

>>425569
This. That's a shitty installation. I would start from scratch

for a temp fix, put a sandwich baggie on the grey pipe with a rubber band to block sewer gas

[Anonymous No.425616]

>>425569
At least push gray pipe upward so that its opening is higher than the drain going through the wall.
As it is gravity will pull all draining fluids out the gray pipe before they exit the room.

[Anonymous No.425624]

>>425540
pfffftthehehehehewow. That shit is banaynays.
They sell kits to rebuild this, and I suggest you get one. Those drains need to all meet at a downhill point, and I'm assuming that's the breather, instead of it being routed behind the wall and out the roof? fuuuuuck. horrible. Sorry buddy.
If you have a window, route a piece of pipe from there to the window at least. It's supposed to be a pressure release on your plumbing, and it's sort of like a burper in which nasty stanks from downstairs regularly pop up to regulate the system pressure, I.E. sewer gas.
One bonus to living in a country with tons of building built recently is that we don't have to cobble a proper system together, it's just built into the building.

[Anonymous No.425626]

wow. i thought the plumbing in my house was hilariously bad. it looks like someone just threw a bunch of extra parts together.

[Anonymous No.425630]

>>425624
I say this, not knowing where you are. I'm here in the western USA in the morning.
That wall behind the sink looks pretty stucco or concrete-y. Where are you, OP?
Do you know if where you live has little roof vents?

[Anonymous No.425654]

>>425630
France

[Anonymous No.425658]

>>425540
The grey pipe is for a dishwasher to dump out into. Just put a cap on it and call it a day.

[Anonymous No.425659]

I just put the grey pipe up, and there is no more water that leaks by it ! Thanks !

[Anonymous No.425685]

>>425659
Yet again physics solves the problem! But seriously, rebuild that plumbing, it's really simple. And cheap.

[Anonymous No.425698]

>>425659
it's still going to overflow everywhere if a clog develops down the line. rotating the pipe so water can't flow into it might seem like a good idea, but once the water in the p trap of the grey part evaporates, it will act as a vent for the drain. enjoy the fetid aroma of decaying organic matter. i could see just capping it off if the place is a rental, but if I owned that place everything from the sink to the wall would be replaced. shit tier work, as others have noted.

[Anonymous No.425709]

>>425659
>>425685
When I "fix" plumbing for a sink or tub I test it by filling the sink or tub 100% full then letting it drain while checking for leaks.

That pipe will overflow in that kind of test. Unlike most everyone ITT I think the plumbing looks fine, with the exception of the grey pipe, which needs to be capped. That pipe is obviously for a secondary input like from a dishwasher. Once the grey pipe is capped you merely need to test it for leaky seals.

If I were to redo it, I'd redo it like I do everything now. I'd use flexible discharge pipes like the one in this image. They are fucking awesome because you never need to line up holes perfectly since the pipe just flexs right over to any angle you need.

[Anonymous No.425715]

>>425709
>I think the plumbing looks fine
wat?
>I'd use flexible discharge pipes like the one in this image. They are fucking awesome because you never need to line up holes perfectly since the pipe just flexs right over to any angle you need.
yeah, you should definitely use flex pipe that will clog easily and break when you have to snake it. enjoy your shit tier life

[Anonymous No.425718]

>>425658
this.

[Anonymous No.425729]

>>425715
Really?

Also, flexi pipes are the best thing for retro-fitting bad plumbing under a sink. It has been my experience that they don't clog any more than anything else. It is normally the sink stopper that causes a clog because it catches hair and other things. These things are also just compression fittings. You can reach under the since, twist the caps and pop it right off to clean or remove someone's ring or something. It takes no tools and you can take it off, clean it, and replace it in like 2-5 minutes tops. If you need to snake, you do it at that time. They act like a snake port in this manner since you can snake after the trap.

I've been installing them for the past 15 years now. You'd never get me to go back to the other solid type pipes.

[Anonymous No.425732]

PTFE tape is always the answer to all plumbing issues.

[Anonymous No.425739]

>>425732
Only it won't work on compression fittings, just the threads.

[Anonymous No.425746]

>>425739
Then you haven't tried it right then. It saved me a lot of hassle by letting me reuse the brass sleeve.

[Anonymous No.425748]

>>425739
It does if you use it the right way. Let me get away without removing brass sleeves.

[Anonymous No.425753]

>>425748
I'm referring to the all-plastic ones like normally used in drainage lines now.

[Anonymous No.425758]

>>425729
this is the mentality of cowboy builders. the quicker easier way is fine as long as you personally have never had a problem.

just google sink plumbing and look at the pics. none of them have flex connectors.

the correct way would be to come off your middle sink into a double wye with the other inlets of the wye going to the other sink and a proper dishwasher connector then down into a union style p trap then into the wall to the drain stack which has a T down into the main drain and up to the outside for a vent.

[Anonymous No.425766]

>>425729
Plumbing codes require that all waste pipe fittings have smooth interior surfaces to allow the free flow of drain water. Although the accordion-type, flexible fittings available at hardware stores may facilitate making the connections, they will also reduce the rapid flow of water down the drain.
>I've been installing them for the past 15 years now. You'd never get me to go back to the other solid type pipes.
15 years of fucking over customers with substandard work. you must be proud. what do you use when you have to replace copper? garden hose?

[Anonymous No.425767]

>>425758
>just google sink plumbing and look at the pics. none of them have flex connectors

It seems you didn't even google it.

[Anonymous No.425783]

>>425540

sigh

the U shaped pipe is called a trap. when the sink drains, the trap remains filled with water; this prevents stench from coming back up the pipe into the sink (and the room).

the grey one is tilted over -- if you can do so without breaking it, rotate it back vertical. note that the open mouth is level almost with the horizontal pipe -- so of course shit flows out of it! second, why is it there? i bet you once had a dishwasher installed.

a bag and a rubber band will block it off (until the rubber band rots and falls off)

second, the short, flex horizontal pipe from the second sink over to the drain and (white) trap really should be horizontal. water will puddle in it, but if you use the sink every day, it wont really matter. probably not bad enough to work on until/unless yo uhave som eothwer problem with it (leaks, etc).

[Anonymous No.425787]

put a cap on it
/thread

[Anonymous No.425841]

[Anonymous No.425852]

>>425841
whats with the dishwasher drain going up? Also it seems like a bad idea to put a receptacle down there because if the pipes leak or something.

[Anonymous No.425859]

>>425852
the outlet would be gfci protected, this allows the hooking up of a garbage disposal or the use of a light.

also the dishwasher line goes up to whats called an air gap, since its discharge is pressurized like a washing machine, the water drains with the help of the vent (air gap)

[Anonymous No.425866]

>>425767
He didn't have to google it because he realizes it's improper plumbing.

I don't think you realize what THOSE flex pipes are for, really. They are not meant for the actual drainage of a sink. They are tied in from DISHWASHERS or GARBAGE DISPOSALS and even then it's not really good if you can help it to use them on garbage disposals.

As with all things construction, it may work for months and years but its not proper nor the best for your drainage.

[Anonymous No.425875]

>>425841
That plumbing is fine as long as there is an air gap or high loop.

However, I am curious as to why there is a, what looks to be, an air vent?

[Anonymous No.425877]

>>425875
wat

I see that too now.

[Anonymous No.425908]

>>425866
The ones I use are sold and advertised for the purpose I use them for. They even have pictures of using them to make traps, sink-to-sink Y hookups, including the stuff you talk about.

You should probably get more world experience on the subject. It's not like I'm defending something like MDF or plywood houses.

[Anonymous No.425909]

>>425875
>>425877
What are you talking about?

[Anonymous No.425952]

>>425908
Here's an idea, you Googled "sink plumbing" now click those pictures that you are defending as examples of use.. Oh wait.. they link to sites where they are discussing BAD plumbing.

Yeah, you're right. I guess those houses that I contracted and built are not enough. I forgot you went to Lowes and read a label. Actually, it is because again you're defending a jackleg way of doing plumbing.

[Anonymous No.425954]

>>425952
Most of the photos on there are discussing bad plumbing. lol

[Anonymous No.425956]

>>425909
The last pic, in the lower left hand corner there's a vent in the cabinet. I don't exactly understand why that'd be there.

Generally, when installing a cabinet over an AC vent, usually during remodels, we will either find a cabinet that does not sit flush on all sides of the floor or we will build a vent into the bottom panel of cabinet so air blows outward. I'm not sure why it is sitting inside of a cabinet. I need more pictures to tell though.

[Anonymous No.425958]

>>425952
The world is changing.

You may as well not change along with it and die out like all the rest of the plumbers. It is all flexi pipes, PEX, and stainless steel now.

[Anonymous No.425959]

>>425954
Of course, there's bad plumbing with the right materials but those flex pipes are discussed specifically as 'bad plumbing'

[Anonymous No.425964]

>>425958
Hahaha.

Yeah, sure, all drainage is flexi pipes and PEX. I'm not sure you can differentiate between drains and lines..

[Anonymous No.425966]

>>425766
>Plumbing codes

Where you live. There is no such code where I live.

>what do you use when you have to replace copper? garden hose?

Listen, if you really don't know what you are talking about, it is a safe bet you shouldn't be posting.
PEX or stainless steel.

[Anonymous No.425967]

>>425964
>taking things out of context

Ah, now it begins.

[Anonymous No.425971]

>>425967

>Backtracking

No, we are talking of nothing but drains, which PEX is not used.

[Anonymous No.426114]

Da fuck does that pipe do? Is dat a ghetto ass airgap?

[Anonymous No.427549]

>>425966
>PEX or stainless steel.
when someone is paying me $100k to remodel the kitchen in their home, which has copper supplies, they get copper with sweat connections for any new work we do. perhaps you're not accustomed to dealing with that type of customer and that level of work. some people want the best and pay well for it.

[Anonymous No.427561]

>>425966
> PEX or stainless steel.

mfw SS is used for a kitchen drain anywhere outside a medical/sterile environment

[Anonymous No.427606]

>>427561
>>427549
>>425971
It is sort of obvious anon is talking about all plumbing, not just drainage. Congrats for being knee-jerk morons and arm chair plumbers.

The quality of /diy/ gets worse with every post these days.

[Anonymous No.427621]

>>427549

copper might be considered better than PEX in some ways, but PEX can freeze without bursting, and doesn't corrode.

i've actually had copper pipes develop pin hole leaks after 10 years of use. probably was defective from the start.

[Anonymous No.427657]

>>427621
I recently replaced several feet of 18 year old copper pipes behind a shower with PEX. The copper had all sorts of pin holes in it. The insides of the copper pipe was so restricted with corrosion and build up that only about 1/3 of the flow was left.

I'm actually going to replace all the old copper pipes in the house with PEX except for the pipes carrying drinking water. Those are going to be stainless steel.

[Anonymous No.427662]

>>427549
Pex is much higher quality than copper. Some consumers would rather copper because they're suspicious of plastic water pipes tainting their water supply with pcb.

Also, when you use the term air gap, are you referring to vent stack? or is this something in addition to the vent

[Anonymous No.427693]

>>425841
P trap on left indicates retard mode installation.
You never move stuff in one direction unnecessarily, only to move back the other way.

P trap should be under the right side, with left draining toward the right.

Looks like a chick did this

[Anonymous No.427695]

the gray pipe was probably for a dish washer that was removed someone left it on because they were lazy/retarded.

[Anonymous No.427696]

also p trap on left should have been lower

[Anonymous No.428411]

>>425569
The out pipe for a washing machine.
>>425540
get a plastic bag or two and roll um into a ball.
stuff into the pipe, but not to deep.
then get two bits of ducktape and tape them over the pipe opening in an X shape.
then wrap tape round the end of the pipe.
it's a quick fix to stop the leak and stink, but it won't last long.
hope that helps.

[Anonymous No.430232]

bump for interest